Tenerife. Island of Eternal Spring. Island of Eternal Spring - Madeira, Portugal Island of Eternal Spring read simply Oleg

Today, as part of another excursion to warmer climes and to distant islands, I propose to talk about the island of Tenerife. Unlike, where eternal summer reigns, the island of Tenerife is called the island of eternal spring (Isla de la Eterna Primavera).

Islands, seas and oceans always attract us with their unique romance and thirst for adventure, and the Canary Islands in particular. After all, it was here that Christopher Columbus stopped when he was looking for a way to India, and in the end (and many people know about this) he discovered America. Subsequently, the Spaniards shed a lot of blood in the battles for these islands. Despite everything, the Canary Islands are still under Spanish rule.

So, Tenerife.
It is the largest and most populous island in the archipelago. In addition, the island of Tenerife is the third largest volcanic island in the world.
The weather here, as well as everywhere else Canary Islands, pleases with its consistency all year round. In the winter months, the air temperature in Tenerife does not fall below 10 degrees, and in the summer months - no lower than 20. Summer here, as expected for a tropical island, is hot - the air temperature often reaches 40 degrees. And what is good news is that the water temperature here does not drop below 20 degrees all year round.

Probably, it was the island of Tenerife that was the prototype of the tropical island of Chunga-Changa from the cartoon “Caterok” (“Miracle island, miracle island. Living on it is easy and simple. Our happiness is constant - chew coconuts, eat bananas...Tenerife...”).

Of course, the main income to the Tenerife treasury comes from tourists, of whom there are plenty here. Over three million people from all over the world visit the island every year. This number of tourists is accepted by two international airport – Los Rodeos, located in the north of the island near the capital of the Canary Islands Santa Cruz de Tenerife, and the southern one, formerly called named after the Spanish Queen Sofia (El Aeropuerto Tenerife Sur Reina Sofia), located in the south of the island in the province Granadilla de Abona. Unfortunately, direct flight there is no way from Moscow to Tenerife and everyone who wants to get to this wonderful island will have to travel this route with a transfer. Most often, flights from Moscow are carried out via Madrid and Barcelona, ​​but there are routes with a transfer at the airport of some other European city, such as Amsterdam, Dusseldorf or Berlin. The bulk of tourists head to the capital of the island Santa Cruz de Tenerife, but besides it there are a number of other resorts on the island, which are located mainly in the southern part of the island. For example this Playa de las Amiricas and Los Cristianos.

It's February, and for Tenerife it's the month of Carnival. Santa Cruz de Tenerife. For a whole week, a costume performance with the participation of island residents and tourists takes place on the streets of the city. This carnival is the second largest after the carnival in Rio de Janeiro.

Besides the carnival, which takes place once a year, Tenerife is full of attractions worthy of attention.

First of all this Teide volcano. And no matter how far this island is from Spain itself, this volcano is its highest point and the highest point in the Atlantic Ocean. The height of the volcano is about 3,700 meters above sea level, and 7,500 meters above the bottom.

Opera located in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, today is a masterpiece of modern architecture and one of the main symbols of the Canary Islands. The building looks truly magical, and its cosmic contours make you remember the stories of science fiction writers.

Located in the city of Candelaria and shrouded in ancient legends, one of which takes us back to the distant 14th century. This legend says that local residents They found the image of the Virgin Mary and worshiped it until the Spaniards appeared on the island and explained to them who exactly was depicted in the image. Subsequently, several Catholic churches were built in this place.

And finally, pyramids of Guimara, the meaning of which, as well as their origin, still remains a mystery to scientists. Someone attributes to them miraculous properties, the meaning of which was known only to local residents. Others consider these pyramids to be an ordinary pile of stones that local farmers built for fun.

And to top it all off, a great video by Terje Sorgjerd:

This is the wonderful island of eternal spring and carnival of Tenerife.

Germany (Cologne) – Canary Islands (Tenerife)

Eternal spring - because there is no big temperature difference between winter and summer. Even in the coldest period of January during the day it is 16-18, and in hot July it is 25-27, but the cool sea wind does not give a feeling of heat. True, in the winter-spring period, the temperature of day and night can differ by 5-8 degrees, just like in the north and south of the island. And yet, only in spring can nature bloom so wildly, but in Tenerife everything blooms wildly all year round. The water temperature in the ocean is not suitable for swimming with children from 16 to 18 in winter and up to +21 in summer. During our stay, the air temperature varied from +12 in the morning to +24 in the afternoon (in the shade). The water in the north was +18, in the south +20. February 8, day one – arrival.

We are flying again with this hated company Raynair. Ask what exactly you don’t like about it, I answer: the weight of luggage is 15 kilos, and God forbid it exceeds even 100 grams, the fines are huge; food and even drink are paid, and the prices, of course, are not earthly; eternal delays and waiting for the bus to and from the plane; window tickets are much more expensive; no TVs in the cabin for a flight duration of about five hours; to get out to the toilet, a whole problem in narrow passages, etc. However, buying a trip for a ridiculous price - 304 euros for 8 days with breakfast (per person), there is no point in complaining. So, at 19 local time, we landed safely at Tenerife Sur South Airport. Having received our things, we immediately went in search of a car, ordered online in advance (for 8 days, 130 euros). During checkout, they took a 500 euro deposit, which was not specified when ordering, but that’s not all the trouble; when we arrived at the indicated parking number, our car was not there. The chaos of searching for a car lasted for an hour and a half, and finally they brought up another one, of the same make, but very badly scratched. We took a photo, after which we again had to go to the bureau and re-register the car. We left the airport at the beginning of eleven in the evening with an already spoiled mood.

Roads in Tenerife, oooh, that’s a separate story, but more on that later. It took more than two hours to get to the hotel in the city of Icod de los Vinos, although later, having sorted out the roads, it took an hour and a half. Only it took almost an hour to find a hotel in the city; the navigation system “sent” us along narrow streets climbing almost vertically upwards; from one of them we had to crawl backwards in complete darkness, because... we ran into a dead end, on the other there was one-way traffic (not in our direction), on the third we again ran into a “no passage” sign, fortunately, there were no obstacles, so after exploring on foot, we decided to continue moving. We often drive, there were steep roads, but the one that we climbed to the hotel, the steepness cannot be described in words, almost vertically, at first speed, the car howled and shook from tension, and so did we, because... We were afraid that it would simply stall.

Finally, we were at the hotel, oddly enough, they were waiting for us, although it was almost one in the morning - at least something pleasant for the evening. The room didn’t make a bad impression, but it was stuffy and smelled damp, so we decided to ventilate it and... we almost fell, there were no windows in it!, only two small “holes” in the wall, and the wide bright curtains turned out to be just an imitation.

Briefly about Tenerife: it is the largest island of the Canary archipelago, owned by Spain. I’ll digress at this point, because... We have repeatedly seen inscriptions on fences and houses like “The Canaries are not Spain!” However, it is not our business to figure out whether the Canaries are Spaniards or not, they are just Canaries and that’s all. This “large” island is only 80 by 40 kilometers, it would seem that you can go around it in a day, probably you can, if you don’t look at anything, but driving back and forth along numerous serpentines and mountains every day takes a lot of effort, time and energy.

The island is not only mountains, but also solid lava and everything that is built and grown on it stands on lava. It was built a lot, soundly and beautifully, and the flora defies description, simply magnificent, it’s even amazing how such beauty grew on lifeless lava. The last volcanic eruption here occurred in 1909, so the island is literally blooming and smelling again, until... until a new eruption, but let’s not be pessimists.

Hotel Estrella and its view of Teide. The hotel is not for beach holiday, far from the sea, and high.

Everything is as it should be: sauna, swimming pool... although 15 euros per couple per hour. Map of Tenerife where we visited. In the process of describing the day by day, you can immediately determine the location. Red - cities; green – trekking.

February 9, day two – Puerto Cruz and Santa Cruz.

Tenerife is a place where it is impossible to accurately predict the weather during the day, especially in February. In the morning and evening it is usually cool, during the day it is warm and even hot; during the day it may start to rain a couple of times, which instantly stops and the sun and blue sky return. It’s good that we have a car, we left our clothes for all occasions and went to get to know the island. On the first day, we chose a not difficult route, because... Tomorrow we will be climbing the Teide volcano.

Puerto Cruz 30 km from us, so within an hour we were walking around the city. The sea was stormy, cloudy, but warm. The water is not entirely comfortable for swimming, but there were brave souls. The black sand of the beach looks unusual.

I admired the numerous crabs on the beach rocks, how beautiful and huge they were. Trying to photograph them closer, I lost control and got hit by another wave, it’s nonsense that it turned out to be completely wet, it was a pity for the camera, which immediately “died” from the salt water. I had to return to the car to change clothes, but I managed to take a photo of the crab.

Catholic Church of Our Lady of Penha de Francia.

The Old Customs House and the Santa Barbara Battery are fortifications that protected merchant ships in the harbor from pirates.

"Lago Martianez"– a network of pools with heated sea water and islands. The beauty beckoned, but... time. My husband offered me a choice: Santa Cruz or lie here for three hours, and he’ll pick me up on the way back; after hesitating for a minute, I chose the first. Still, we have been and will continue to be in many water parks, but I will never see the capital Tenerife. Initially, our plan did not include Loro, Aqua and other parks intended mainly for children's entertainment, which we have more than enough of in Germany.

The tour began with the Auditorio de Tenerife - one of the most famous and recognizable buildings in Spain, the symbol of the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and one of the main attractions of the Canary Islands. The opera was built in 2003.

The coastal defense of San Juan Bautista, also called the Black Fort, played an important role in the defense of the city. Every year on July 25, a celebration is held near this fort in honor of the unsuccessful attempt to capture Santa Cruz de Tenerife by the British Admiral Nelson.

The entire coastal strip of the square near the Opera is strewn with large black stones, many of which have portraits painted on them by local craftsmen. famous people, entertaining.

They left the car in front of the Auditorio at some construction site. It’s a couple of kilometers to the city center, but we were too lazy to take a walk, so we decided to drive closer to the center and... made a big mistake. On this evening, a celebration was planned in the city and the city center was blocked, we got into a big traffic jam, wasting more than an hour (and we could have been walking in the center a long time ago). After spinning around, we left the car in an underground garage not far from the place where we took it, but now for a fee, this is how we were punished for laziness. There wasn’t much to see in the city, and the weather had suddenly deteriorated and it began to rain, so after walking around the center a little, we went to have lunch and wait out the rain, which had become serious.

A small old church, well restored, is located across the road near the Opera.

Parish Catholic Church Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in the historical part of the city. It is the main temple of the city, often called the "Cathedral of Santa Cruz" or the "Basilica of Santa Cruz", although it is neither one nor the other. By the way, many historical relics are kept there, taken under the protection of UNESCO.

Plaza de España was built on the site of the San Cristobal Castle, a former bastion designed to protect the island from pirates. Now all that remains of the castle are the walls, which can be seen in the underground gallery located under the square. Around the square are the city hall, the main post office and other important municipal buildings.

In the center is the Monument to the Fallen, built after Civil War. This is a cross-shaped tower with an observation deck at the top. The huge green “bowl” of the square is a fountain with sea water, which is illuminated by a garland of light bulbs made in the shape of water drops of three different sizes, alas... we did not see this beauty, the fountain did not work, as well as the entrance to the observation deck. Failures accompanied us throughout the entire trip to Tenerife, yesterday with the car, today with the camera, and here on Santa Cruz, as it later turned out, almost every day.

We had lunch at a pizzeria with a lawn on the roof; the prices turned out to be much higher than in Puerto Cruz.

We walked around the García Sanabria municipal park.

On the way back, we again got into a huge traffic jam when leaving the city onto the highway, we decided not to stand, but to wait it out, turning into the first street we came across. We climbed the nearest mountain by car to take a photo of the evening city. However, traffic jams were still not avoided.

Driving past Puerto Cruz, I sighed with regret, I still had to stay in Lago Martianez, lie on the sand and swim in the pools with warm sea water, but... the choice was made and it was not the best, Santa Cruz did not leave much of an impression.

Breakfast at the hotel at 8.30, very late, because of this, we lost a precious hour and a half every day. Usually on trips we left at 8 am, but here it was only after ten o’clock. Tomorrow - Teide, I wanted to leave early, so we ordered breakfast with packed lunches. February 10, day three – failed Teide; Raques de Garcia rocks; high mountain village of Vilaflor.

In the morning, without waiting for the ordered breakfast, we left the room at 7.30 and... saw a bag of food hanging on the door handle, we had to go back and have breakfast. The mood was great, because... the weather was warm and clear, we were already anticipating what super views there would be when climbing to the very top, i.e. to the crater. The climb itself was booked in advance on the Internet for 11 am, which means we have to hurry in order to have time to climb the funicular to 3550 m, and then walk to the crater at 3718 m.

We passed the “Stone Flower” on the way to Teide(from the north side), making a short break at the mirador (observation platform), from where Teide was clearly visible, although it still takes a long time to get to it.

Even from a distance we sensed something was wrong; we couldn’t see the “floating” cabins on the cable car, and there were very few cars in the parking lot. The strong wind is the culprit of this silence. The cable car was closed for the whole day after a test run, you saw it yourself, the cabin was swaying incredibly, and this was at the beginning of the journey, I can imagine what was happening at the top. They asked what we should do with the ordered climb to the crater - they suggested we just forget it, because... A huge piece of ice slid onto the path when it melted; the climb will be opened only after it melts, which means we are flying over. This is perhaps one of the biggest failures. You can climb the volcano on your own along a path that starts a couple of kilometers from the cable car, but it takes 6 hours there and 5 back, and the time is already 10, therefore, we will return in the dark, not suitable. But we still approached the trail, and even walked for a kilometer, well, no, we couldn’t do it, the wind just blew us off our feet. Finally we fully realized that we need to forget about the volcano for today.

What is bad luck and how to deal with it - change the route, that's what we did.

Even in the photo you can see how strong the wind is: the scarf is like a flag; Even the hood does not hold the cap; the bushes are almost lying down.

We go to picturesque rock formations Roquec de Garcia, located in the Teide National Park, near the foot of the Teide volcano towards the south. This place is popular among tourists because of the bizarre shape of the stones and the variety of their colors. There are several walking paths around the rocks. hiking trails. Since we had time, we decided to take a walk around this picturesque area and did not regret it, two and a half hours flew by unnoticed.

Rock Cinchado(finger of God) is one of the symbols of the island of Tenerife. Her image was on the 1000 Spanish pesetas banknote.

Climb to these rocks for another 30 minutes	Sitting "toad"

(photo from observation deck), from these rocks below we climbed to the lookout at the end of the path. We walked along the top of the entire ridge of rocks, then went down into the canyon and returned to the beginning of the path, going around the rocks on the other side and examining them from below.

The village of Vilaflor is located at an altitude of 1400 meters and is the highest mountain not only in Tenerife, but also in Spain. In this regard, there is a unique climate here, which allows many fruit and vegetable crops to produce four harvests a year.

We drive through pine forests that looked deplorable after the terrible fire of 2007, but the Canarian pine has an amazing ability to recover after forest fires, destructive for all other vegetation. Near the village, surrounded by pine forests, grows “Pino Cordo” - a pine tree 40 meters high (third photo).

There are many routes around Vilaflor walking routes so that everyone can admire the natural beauty and breathe in the purest mountain air. But we were interested in “Moon Landscape”. Having rested under the powerful crown of a 40-meter pine tree, we learned that we had passed the turn to the “Moon Landscape”, although quite a bit. We returned and... drove through again. Later they understood why they couldn’t find it: it simply couldn’t occur to them that the narrow, dirty dirt path was the “road” to the “Moon Landscape”. Moreover, it was dug up and there was a sign that passage was prohibited, repair work was underway, but... it was possible to pass. We waited a little, maybe there will still be people who want to see “Moonscape” with a car, or someone will return from there, alas... no one. And if it continues to be dug up, the road is so narrow, and even winding, that you won’t be able to turn around, you’ll have to back away. In general, we didn’t decide to buy a car. And walk 5 km to the parking lot, then 4 km, uphill, to the “Moon Landscape”, i.e. in total, 18 km was not warm, especially since we had only recently walked 8 km on the de Garcia rocks. So the “Moonscape” flew by as well as the crater of the Teide volcano.

Village of Vilaflor

In the evening, good news awaited me at the hotel: my camera “came to life”, although not all functions worked, but I still took photographs, which means it had dried out a little after “swimming” in sea water. February 11, day four – Los Gigantes; Maska village; Tenopark.

We are going to the west coast of Tenerife to the town Los Gigantes, from which the giant cliffs of Acantilado de Los Gigantes stretch for 10 km along the coast. In Spanish, these steep basalt cliffs are translated as “Rocks of the Giants.” The Los Gigantes cliffs are the highest in all of Spain, they belong to the Teno mountain range and do not have a gentle slope. The height of the ledges reaches 600 meters, and they are immersed in the ocean for the same amount.

The best way to admire the majestic landscape is from the sea. The port of Los Gigantes hosts numerous sea ​​excursions on boats, boats, yachts and catamarans, combining a walk to the rocks with watching the whales and dolphins that live in this part of the coast of Tenerife. The difference in the cost of the trip depends on the time and type of ship, there are even big ship, decorated like a pirate schooner (first photo). We chose the cheapest one - a 2-hour trip for 15 euros per person on a small boat (second photo).

I liked the walk, we saw dolphins, although we were thoroughly wet from the sea spray, because... the boat was constantly “diving” in the waves.

A short stop was near the Masca gorge (Barranco de Masca), where it ends, starting from the village of Masca. Those who wanted to bought, but there were few of them, because... We “bought” enough during our walk along the ocean, everyone was treated to Canarian Sambria wine, and that was the end of the trip.

The tourist town of Los Gigantes - consisting entirely of hotels and guesthouses, is green and very cozy.

We are on our way to Maska village along picturesque road serpentines.

The village of Maska met with light rain and fog.

Until the 60s of the last century, it remained inaccessible; the village could only be reached by boat, and then along mountain paths. It is not surprising that since ancient times the Masca Gorge in Tenerife has been considered a haven for pirates and smugglers. Now there is no problem getting to the village, but even the road itself with a lot of sharp turns is a real adventure.

The village is quite small, about 150 residents live in it, but to this day it has retained its historical appearance. All buildings are made in traditional Canarian style. For tourists there is a souvenir shop and several restaurants where you can eat inexpensively and tasty.

After walking around the tiny village, we decided to go down into the gorge, although we understood that there was not enough time to walk to the sea and back. It takes more than 3 hours just to go down to the sea, then back the same way, but with an ascent, which means it will take more time, and we simply didn’t have seven hours before dark. But I really wanted to see the gorge, so we went, but decided that it would be no more than two hours one way.

The descent into the gorge begins near this restaurant, where we later had dinner. On the way back, this climb up the mountain turned out to be the most difficult, the restaurant is barely visible at the top, and this is only the beginning of the descent.

If you slip, you will only fall 20 meters down.

The gorge is really very picturesque. We walked almost half the way in an hour and a half (marked on the map with a red dot), then solid rocks and boulders began, we had to return so as not to spend the night in the gorge. We were aware that the last part of the journey towards the sea was much more difficult, but we didn’t think it would be that much. We spent the same amount of time on the way back, although the road was constantly going up, we were in a hurry, because... It gets dark very quickly in the mountains. In total, we “walked” through the gorge for 3 hours, we were tired, but received a lot of positive emotions from what we saw.

The pea soup in the restaurant turned out to be excellent, such a huge portion with a whole freshly baked loaf that there was simply no need for a second course. After dinner, we walked around the village of Maska a little more and bought a large multi-colored singing parrot in the souvenir shop.

We took a different road back, heading to the town of Buenavista del Norte (west). Adrenaline was added to the positivity, winding along the mountain serpentines of the Teno National Park.

At the pass we got caught floating with high speed clouds, interesting feeling. The picture of the review changed every minute: now you see mountains that are covered with incoming fog; then far below there is a valley with a village; then you stand in pure milk and even 5 meters away you can’t see anything.

On the way we saw another attraction of Tenerife - the Montana La Sahorra hill, shaped like a cut pie.

Near the town Buenavista del Norte There are numerous banana gardens, I wanted to look at the growing huge bunches of bananas. Alas, the gardens are tightly closed with waxy brick or concrete barriers.

February 12, day five – Teide volcano; Pyramids of Guimar; Candelaria.

Let's go again Teide, however, call first and make sure that the cable car is working.

View from the Teide observation deck 3550 m, minus 4 degrees.

Closed trail to the Teide volcano crater.

25 euros per person to ride the cable car up and “walk” along a small observation deck, where there is nothing to see - it’s not worth it. In a word – I didn’t like it!

We had great fun climbing in the “desert” near Teide. We watched the filming of a film about Indians.

Ethnographic Guimar Park founded by Norwegian explorer Thor Hayerdahl in 1998. On its territory, which occupies more than 64 square kilometers!, there is a complex of pyramids, a museum, large garden areas and much more.

Pyramids of Guimar, these are six step pyramids located in the city of Guimar on the southeast coast of the island. According to local scientists and island residents, these structures were piled up by local farmers, who, when plowing the land, have the custom of placing the stones they found at the borders of the fields. According to locals and old images, such pyramids existed in many places on the island, but were demolished due to their perceived uselessness and were used as a source of cheap building material. There were nine pyramids directly in Guimar, of which only six have survived.

In 1991, famous traveler Thor Heyerdahl studied the pyramids and declared that they could not be just mountains of rubble. For example, clear traces of stone processing were found at the corners of the pyramids, and also that the ground was leveled before the construction of the pyramids. The material is not round boulders from local fields, but pieces of lava. Heyerdahl also expressed opinions about the astronomical orientation of the pyramids. In addition, all the pyramids on the western side have stairs that on the morning of the winter solstice lead directly to the rising sun.

Heyerdahl was never able to find out the age of the pyramids or answer the question of who built them. However, it is firmly known that the Guanches lived in a cave under one of the pyramids, and even one of them was the residence of one of the 10 kings (Mensei) of Tenerife.

Sugar cane, heavy, however, for some reason I thought that it was not so tall. The second photo shows a figure from Easter Island. On the third - the plant “Bruise”, known on Teide, but we saw it only in the park, although I read on the internet that it is everywhere, especially near the Teide volcano, alas... we did not see it, and it is not flowering, although I read that it blooms brightly and exactly in the spring.

We spent more than two hours in Guimar Park, had a great rest and for only 11 euros - it’s worth it. (Candelaria) is located near the capital of the island, Santa Cruz.

Main Cathedral Tenerife is in La Laguna, but the heart of the island's religious life beats in the coastal town of Candelaria. Here, in the basilica (Basilica de la Candelaria), a very important relic for every Canarian believer is kept - the statue of Our Lady of Candelaria, patroness of the Canary Islands.

According to legend, the statue was found on the beach by Guanche aborigines back in the 14th century. The Guanches were pagans, not familiar with Christian values, but they treated the strange find with respect. The Guanches named the new goddess Mother Sun (Chaxiraxi) and began to worship the image of the Virgin Mary. At the same time, they also did not forget about their old gods. Subsequently, when the island was conquered by the Spanish conquistadors, to say that they were surprised by this is to say nothing; they were in complete stupor - the pagans worship an image so revered in the Christian world. And why the image of the Virgin Mary is black is a separate story, about which much has been written on the Internet.

Nine bronze statues of the Menseys, the Guanches of Tenerife, line the Candelaria promenade. Once upon a time, the entire island was ruled single-handedly by a mensey named Tinerfe El Grande. After his death, his nine sons divided the island into nine independent kingdoms and also became menseys before the colonization of the island by the Spaniards.

February 13, day six – Icod de Los Vinos; botanical garden in Puerto Cruz; cave village Chinamada.

We live in and don’t have enough time to see everything in the city, so we decided to get acquainted with it before breakfast.

Drago Park is the main attraction of the city of Ikod, with its old tree called the “thousand-year-old dragon”. Dragon trees do not form growth rings, so the real age of the tree remains a mystery. This dragon tree (Dracaena dracaena), with dagger-like leaves, is the largest and most famous member of the Dracaena genus in the world. It was declared a national monument in 1917. In 1985, a fan was installed between the tree trunks to circulate air and prevent mold growth. This dragon tree is about 18 meters high. If you make a cut on a tree trunk, a red resin (“dragon’s blood”) will come out, which was previously used as a medicine and dye.

To view it, you don’t need to buy a ticket and waste time exploring the park, which is more suitable for visiting with children; the tree is clearly visible from the observation deck, however, it is more advertised than it is anything of the sort.

But in a regular free park in the city there is a wonderful “walking ficus” growing, which we liked. The impression is complete that the tree is really walking, and the front and back roots are like huge chicken feet. It is impossible to believe that this is the same tree (second, third and fourth photos).

The other one has a stone embedded in the trunk, and the tree itself is interesting.

The third tree itself is flat, and the fruits are in the form of a large ball, very large.

Church of St. Mark.

Inside, the church is striking with an abundance of niches, and in the center there is a statue of St. Mark - a small Gothic sculpture carved from stone that came to the island before the Spaniards arrived there. This is one of the oldest European figurines in the Canary Islands.

The huge white building is a former monastery, currently a primary school. We walked around it and was amazed that most of the classrooms where the kids study were without windows and with rather dim light. Inside, the monastery remained similar to a monastery; it doesn’t look like a school, although you yourself saw kids studying in classrooms and running around the monastery courtyard.

Another attraction of the city of Icod is the underground complex of the Viento-Sobrado cave, which we couldn’t visit because we didn’t have enough time, but here you need at least 5-6 hours. The Viento Cave is unique in that it is a large lava tube and is the largest in Western Europe. It was formed about 27,000 years ago from basaltic lava as a result of the eruption of the Viejo volcano, which stands next to the Teide volcano and only slightly below it.

In total, the Viento cave has three levels, the tunnels of which in total stretch for 17-18 kilometers (the fourth largest in the world). This is a real labyrinth with many unexplored turns. Besides its length, the cave is notable for its three-level structure, which is not found anywhere else in the world. Here you can see lava stalactites, lava cascades and terraces, lava lakes, as well as representatives of flora and fauna preserved in stones.

When leaving the city, we saw a pillar overgrown with greenery, resembling a walking figure.

There was enough time to visit before breakfast city ​​of Garachico, located six km from Ikod.

Three hundred meters from the shore, a large stone is the Roque de Garachico rock, on which rare petrels nest.

Natural pools formed after a volcanic eruption. There is no “normal” beach in the city, but these numerous pools with paved paths and steps can completely replace any classic beach. In sunny weather, the water in the pools quickly heats up from the stones, and swimming in them is a pleasure. True, we were unlucky here too, the pools have been closed for a week due to an incessant storm, although in the pools themselves the water was completely calm, it is not clear why they were closed.

The Castle of San Miguel is simply called "Castle of Garachico" or "Fort of Garachico". It was built in the 16th century and protected ships from attacks by pirates, which were not uncommon in those days. In addition, unlike today, Garachico in past times was the commercial capital of the island, with ships carrying expensive cargo moored in its port. Fort San Miguel completely lost its importance in 1706, when a volcanic eruption destroyed part of the city and blocked the entrance to the bay.

Church of St. Anne.

Central square of Garachico.

After a late breakfast we go to Botanical Garden of Puerto Cruz.

The entrance ticket is only 3 euros, but we enjoyed what we saw full program, two hours flew by in a flash, so much exoticism in such a small park. Tenerife has more than 1,300 plant species and 200 of them grow only on this island.

The first tree has roots that hang down to the ground in the form of a curly net, hard to the touch.

Tall bushes, one might say trees, blooming like large dandelions, and colorful ones.

Meter-long monstera leaves and a lumpy tree root.

These are all ficus trees, one in each photo! different wood, but looks like a forest.

This huge “fern” blooms with bright, wonderful flowers.

And on this bush, each flower is 20-25 cm in diameter.

And this is actually a miracle, a miracle, either a flower or a root...

It is impossible to post all the pictures of the garden, but you must agree, the beauty is indescribable.

Next we head to mountain range Anaga to the north of the island. We had to go around the town of La Laguna, which we wanted to visit, because... a party was planned, Canarians love to have fun, and in connection with this there was again a monstrous traffic jam.

Our goal - Chinamada village(Chinamada). Long before the first conquistadors appeared in Tenerife, the Guanches, an incomprehensible people who have now disappeared from the face of the earth, already lived here. And the Guanches used caves as living space, of which there were plenty on the volcanic island. Quite a traditional solution for the Stone Age. And there are no problems with space, you can build as much as you want. Nowadays Tenerife is considered a civilized place, and in this village people still live in caves. Don't believe me? Come to the village of Chinamada in the Anaga Mountains. By the way, electricity was installed here only in the late 90s.

The road to Chinamada is very picturesque, and there are no less serpentines than to Maski.

We had lunch in a yellow restaurant, where only the covered terrace and outbuildings are visible; the restaurant itself is in a cave. Many “cave” houses have an external terrace, even covered with glass - this is already a sign of civilization. We ordered two different Canarian dishes at random, because... If you don't know Spanish, it's impossible to ask. During the trip we tried a lot of dishes, but not all of the Canarian cuisine was to our liking; we couldn’t eat some, like gofio (mashed porridge with the same pureed meat).

We decided to walk to the mirador with an amazing view of the Anaga Mountains and the rocky Atlantic coast. The plan was not to climb mountains, so I went in sneakers and capris. Valdemar was a little more prudent, wearing trekking boots, but stayed in shorts. It will soon become clear why there is so much detail about our equipment.

Despite the “selectivity” of tourists, the Canary Islands are very popular. Tenerife is not called an island for nothing Eternal Spring is a year-round resort. There are unique climatic conditions here, there is no sweltering heat, it is very comfortable and warm.

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Manager travel company"Time Tour" Natalya Kravtsova talks about the amazing Canary Islands.

- As you know, the tourist these days is a sophisticated one, and it’s difficult to surprise him with something exotic. What is special about the direction that Vremya-Tour offers to clients?

Despite the “selectivity” of tourists, the Canary Islands are very popular. Tenerife is not without reason called the Island of Eternal Spring - it is a year-round resort. There are unique climatic conditions here, there is no sweltering heat, it is very comfortable and warm. The island is washed by the Atlantic Ocean, which is considered cold. But even in winter the water temperature does not drop below +20C.

So, the islands are attractive to holidaymakers all year round. Of course, in the summer, competition comes from resorts on the Spanish continental coast. But in winter and in the off-season, Tenerife remains number one. Some tourists are embarrassed by the long flight - about seven hours. But this is perhaps the only inconvenient moment. Comfortable planes with business class fly to the island.

- Natalya, I heard that the level of service in hotels is simply excellent.

Due to the fact that this area is considered elite, there is a very strong hotel base: mostly very strong fours, 4+ and 5 stars. There are also three-star hotels, but they are not typical for Tenerife. There are many well-known hotel chains here - not only Spanish, but also world-famous: H10, Sol Melia, Iberostar. Naturally, they are famous for their high level of service.

Tenerife is a volcanic island, so many of its beaches have black sand. But some hotels import white sand and make artificial beaches. There are many magnificent tennis courts and golf courses built here - carefully maintained, with a unique design. Almost every hotel has magnificent spa complexes where you can enjoy chocolate or wine therapy, try a variety of treatments and various types of massage. If the ocean temperature seems too cold, heated pools are at your service.

By the way, about the cost. In principle, a tour package to Tenerife is not cheap - for a number of objective reasons. Nevertheless, we are trying to maintain a democratic and loyal pricing policy, which, in fact, distinguishes us from other companies. First of all, we try to focus on customers and offer products in different price categories - from fours to the most elite vacation. For agencies we have developed special bonus programs- including an increased system of discounts. So, with a standard commission on tours of 10%, which most tour operators give, in the winter months we give a 20% commission - and that’s a lot. Naturally, our prices cannot but interest our clients.

- What can you do here besides playing golf? Any excursions, local attractions?

One of the most picturesque excursions - sightseeing tour around the island with an ascent to the Teide volcano. By the way, the island is named after the volcano: “Tenerife” means “snowy mountain”. Today the height of Teide is just over 37750-0_bgblur_00 meters - it used to be higher. And its last eruption dates back to 1798. No matter which side you approach the volcano from, you are guaranteed the most amazing and beautiful views. Mountains and forests alternate here - with ancient relict trees; and above begins the volcanic landscape - with frozen lava flows, destroyed craters and weathered rocks. The landscape is very reminiscent of scenes from science fiction films. By the way, the films were filmed here" star Wars" and "One Million Years BC".

The most visited attraction is Loro Parque. Here is the world's largest collection of parrots and the largest penguinarium, Planet of the Penguins. Here you can admire the dolphin and seal shows, visit the zoo and botanical garden with unique exotic plants.

The island offers an excellent choice of "easy" holidays. Boutiques and stores of world brands, cozy restaurants and cafes, water parks and all kinds of boat trips, knightly tournaments and flamenco shows - everything is thought out here to the smallest detail. So, a holiday on the Island of Eternal Spring will not disappoint you.

Do you dream of a place where beautiful landscapes reign all year round? weather- warm and sunny, but not too hot, and a refreshing sea breeze blows across your face? You would like to go on vacation to an island, but a trip to distant tropical countries Does the journey seem too long and difficult to you?

Or maybe, in addition to lying on the beach and swimming in the sea, you want to look at the wonders of nature and interesting monuments? If this is what your dream of a vacation paradise looks like, then we invite you to Tenerife - one of the Canary Islands.

Spanish archipelago IslasCanarias» consists of seven main islands that are found in the waters Atlantic Ocean near west coast Africa, near Morocco.

The human eye is not able to see that the pieces of land located one after another, like links in a chain, on which more than two million people live today, are practically the tops of huge volcanoes immersed in the ocean.

Some of them are still active today. On the island of La Palma, the Teneguia volcano (200 meters above sea level) was last active in 1971. In turn, on the island of Lanzarote, even today we can observe flames and clouds of steam emerging from the craters of Montanas del Fuego (Mountains of Fire) in the Timanfaya National Park (Parque Nacional de Timanfaya).

Despite the fact that the archipelago is located near Africa, administratively it belongs to Spain. The first guests from the Iberian Peninsula appeared here at the beginning of the 15th century and fought for possession of these territories for almost a century.

The local Guanche people heroically defended their land, but in the end they were defeated (the last island captured was Tenerife). Those who did not die at the hands of the Spaniards gradually assimilated. Very little of the Guanche culture has survived to this day.

Near the towns of Güímar ) and Icoddelos Vinos in Tenerife there are stone pyramids built by a former civilization. And the museums house ancient tools and mummified remains of the Guanche people, and the yellowed pages of ancient chronicles tell what the Spanish invaders were able to record about their language, religion and customs.

Pyramid in the city of Guimar

Joyful Islands

Today's islanders - especially villagers - cultivate ancient traditions and customs. In this way they maintain continuity between the past and the future. The main source of income here is tourism. Trade also plays an important role here. Agriculture. For example, the miniature Canarian banana is very popular - it is not only smaller, but also much sweeter than other varieties.

Walking through one of the huge banana plantations is like a childhood dream come true. Only spiders swinging among the leaves will prevent us from going too far into the thicket full of fragrant fruits.

Residents of the Canary Islands love to celebrate, dance and play instruments. The main holiday on the islands is the carnival in honor of the end of winter - the Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which is sometimes compared to the Brazilian Rio de Janeiro, the Colombian Barranquilla or the American New Orleans. At this time, the Canary towns look festive, and the streets are full of people dressed in colorful outfits. The hot rhythms of salsa and meringue, which are in the blood of the locals, get everyone excited to dance, and even small children sway their hips as if they have inherited this skill.

The Canary Islands owe their excellent climate to the large number of sunny days and warm trade winds. Winters here are mild and summers are not too hot. Thus, the archipelago can be visited at any time of the year.

White Mountain

The name "Tenerife" comes from the language of the indigenous people neighboring island La Palma from the words shade(mountain) and ife(white). Of course, this name refers to the snow-capped peak overlooking Tenerife.

Rising to a height of 3,718 meters above sea level, Mount Teide is the highest point not only in the Canary Islands, but throughout Spain. Next to it is the Pico Viejo volcano, which translates as Old Summit (3135 meters above sea level). The last time it erupted was in 1798.

The surroundings of Mount Teide are not only the most unusual, but also the most threatening places in Tenerife - it was against their backdrop that many commercials and science fiction films were filmed (for example, One Million Years BC and Clash of the Titans).

If you drive an SUV towards the volcano, you will be able to observe lunar landscapes that will take you to a completely different, mysterious world. All the way to the horizon, you will be surrounded by a lava desert: next to huge black rocks and unusual screes, rocks rise to the sky, alternating with the pastel colors of minerals.

It is difficult to believe that any life develops on this barren land. However, the Las Canadas caldera area brings extraordinary diversity to the landscape rare species flora. Teide and its surroundings are currently part of National Park Teide (Parque Nacional del Teide), so every rock and every plant is protected here. Local residents care very much about nature. It is therefore not at all surprising that almost half of the island's area (48.6%) is protected area.

Pilot whales (large cetaceans from the dolphin family, or bottlenose dolphins) still live in the sea between the islands of Tenerife and La Gomera.

Voyages are organized here for tourists in search of these sea creatures. If you're lucky, you'll get to see them with your own eyes. On the western coast of the island, steep basalt Rocks of the Giants (Acantila dos de los Gigantes), several hundred meters high, rise directly from the ocean, which are best viewed while on board a boat or yacht.

On the north side

Located in the geographical center of Tenerife, the Teide peak not only gives the island its characteristic contour, but also divides it into northern and southern part. It is the most symbolic natural monument of the entire archipelago. Her fiery image can be seen in the middle of the coat of arms of Tenerife. In addition, the Teide motif is often used by the creators of Canarian handicrafts, postage stamps and manufacturers of various souvenirs.

If in the south of the island the landscape becomes almost deserted, then on the second side of the mountain lush vegetation develops. To the most beautiful fragments north coast includes the western region of Isla Baja, where tourists are attracted by unusual natural attractions, beautiful peaks, cliffs and gorges, as well as picturesque villages cut off from civilization.

One of these villages is Masca, located in the valley of the same name. They say that it was once a hideout for pirates. Now she radiates incredible calm. And on the slopes of the surrounding mountains you will find numerous caves. As legend has it, pirate treasures are still hidden in some of them.

The real pearl of the region is the town of five thousand Garachico - once the most important port of Tenerife. This is where the family of Simon Bolivar (1783-1830) - the Venezuelan liberator - came from South America. Today in the Plaza de la Libertad you can see a statue of this great hero.

In 1706, Garachico was destroyed by a powerful eruption of the Trevejo volcano (Arenas Negras). Lava flowing towards the ocean over the coast created a small cape on which the destroyed houses of a former fishing village were rebuilt.

Another place worth visiting in the Isla Baja region is Icod de los Vinos. It gained its fame, first of all, thanks to a specimen of a huge (18-meter) dragon tree ( Dracaenadraco), which is considered the oldest representative of this species in the world (according to some estimates, its age is a thousand years old, hence its Spanish name DragoMilenario).

An oxidizing red resin oozes from a damaged tree trunk, which locals attribute to healing properties. The Guanches used this so-called dragon's blood ( sangrededrago) as a medicine and for embalming the dead.

Parrots from Puerto de la Cruz

One of the most famous resorts on the northern coast of Tenerife is Puerto de la Cruz, picturesquely located in the La Orotava valley, which the famous German naturalist and traveler Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859) called the most beautiful in the world. The local port began to develop here after the destruction of Garachico.

Today, well-preserved houses with beautiful carved balconies and churches for more than several centuries in Puerto de la Cruz create an atmosphere typical of old cities. Janitors sweep squares and alleys here with huge palm leaves. This city is famous for the parrot park (Loro Parque), where you will see not only these colorful birds, but also gorillas, chimpanzees, tigers, penguins, various types of fish (including dangerous piranhas, sharks), turtles, lizards and other animals, as well as exotic plants (for example, orchids, palms, Canary dragons, cacti and fig trees). During musical performances of trained dolphins, sea lions and killer whales, the captivated audience applauds with joy, and the performers themselves give the impression that they enjoy it too.

The natural coastline around Puerto de la Cruz, with its black sand and rocks, discourages some swimmers. Built for their convenience beach complex Lago Martiánez with an artificial lake in the center, a group of seawater pools, tropical gardens, and restaurants. This complex was designed by César Manrique (1919-1992), a Spanish artist who spent most of his life on the island of Lanzarote.

For the same reason, another beach, located in the northeast, Las Teresitas Beach, was also redone. It is located in the town of San Andrés next to Santa Cruz de Tenerife. It is one of the most popular beaches in Tenerife. Las Teresitas Beach is covered with tons of silky, yellow sand brought here straight from the Sahara.

Two capitals and an entertaining south

In the north-eastern corner of the island there are two capitals of Tenerife: the former San Cristobal de La Laguna (universally known as La Laguna) and the current Santa Cruz de Tenerife or simply Santa Cruz. The elder capital was the first unfortified colonial city built by Spanish colonists.

Due to the fact that to this day we can observe the original urban structure and many buildings from the 16th-18th centuries, in 1999 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

While the former capital fascinates us with its centuries-old monuments, the current one has grown into a truly cosmopolitan city of 200,000 people. Next to the old buildings in Santa Cruz, more and more new houses, elegantly designed shops, modern office buildings, and shopping galleries are appearing.

On south side islands, in the coastal zone of the Arona and Adeje districts, the largest tourist center of Tenerife operates. Those thirsty for relaxation and entertainment are welcome here beautiful hotels, beautifully maintained beaches, wonderful restaurants, bustling cities, as well as the opportunity to engage in various aquatic species sports

The famous Playa de las Américas, stretching from Mount Chayofita to Playa del Bobo, and located in the Arona and Adeje districts, is characterized by the fact that there is nothing Canarian here. At every step you will find restaurants, Irish pubs, Italian pizzerias or American fast foods. This is because Playa de las Américas is mainly visited by tourists from Northern Europe who, after a whole day of relaxing on the beach, want to have fun in the nightclubs or those who have not yet gotten used to the tastes of Spanish cuisine.

Tenerife can be safely considered an ideal destination for tourists of any age. In addition, a stay on this island of eternal spring will satisfy both lovers of blissful laziness and people who like to spend time more actively. It's hard to imagine a better place for a successful holiday.

P.S. The most the best prices You can find air tickets to Tenerife on the website. !

This article first appeared in 2011 in the wonderful CookEatSmile magazine. But you should not think that during this time information about Madeira has become outdated: time on the island passes lazily, measuredly, and in order for something to change, a much longer period is required.

Funchal, view from the sea

Islands are my secret passion. It's not even about the healing sea air or the beautiful sunsets. No, of course, neither do they - but still, the main charm of the islands is their isolation from the rest of the world. Everything is different here. Other people, different nature, even the wind blows differently than on “ mainland" This has been so at all times, and it remains so to this day. Especially in the case of islands lost far out in the ocean, such as Madeira Island.

All Madeira is a constant up and down

However, how far is it? The thousand kilometers that separate Madeira from mainland Portugal can be covered in an hour and a half, but when you step off the plane, you will find yourself in the kingdom of eternal spring, cool levadas and unique relict forests. It is for the pristine nature that most tourists come here, although, of course, there is something to see here even without it - for example, New Year's fireworks, which are held in Madeira on a traditional scale, are included in the Guinness Book of Records as the most spectacular show of this kind. And even if you are not lucky enough to be in Madeira at this time of year, there is still something to see, where to go and what to try.

Bank building in the historical center

You should definitely see the capital of Madeira, the city of Funchal, or rather, its historical center - a huge cathedral, several ancient forts, and just beautiful houses, streets, parks and embankments. Unlike many other cities that are not deprived of the attention of tourists, Funchal continues to live its own life and does not look like a preserved museum exhibit, and at the farmers market there are approximately equal numbers of locals and tourists.

There are several forts in Funchal, and most of them can be wandered around

The main entertainment that awaits you outside of Funchal is walking along the levadas, and in order to explain what this is, an excursion into the geography of the island is necessary. High mountains they actually divide Madeira in two, becoming an obstacle to clouds moving from north to south. On the one hand, this makes the southern half of the island more suitable for both agriculture and life. On the other hand, it noticeably suffers from a lack of water, without which it is hardly possible to achieve any significant success in agriculture (and life).

Levada

Mountain View

An ingenious way out of the situation was the levadas built by Portuguese settlers - small ditches used to transfer water from north to south. Most of the levadas are still in operation today, and the trails along them have become convenient. walking routes, where you can admire mountains, lakes and waterfalls. It’s beautiful, but it’s very tiring and whets your appetite - but fortunately, everything is in order with this in Madeira.

Being above the clouds is a very special feeling

Like any island, Madeira has no shortage of fish and seafood. Tuna, sea bream, sea wolf, and parrot fish are available in almost every restaurant that offers the gifts of the Atlantic, although oysters are not so widely represented - they are not available off the coast of Madeira; they have to be brought from Portugal itself. Among the local specialties, one cannot fail to note the espada - this fish is found near Madeira at great depths and is caught with a hook, and got its name due to its long, narrow body, which actually somewhat resembles a saber. Two more worthy representatives of the local marine fauna are the lapas clams, which are grilled and sprinkled with lemon, and the cavaco flathead lobster, which is quite scary-looking but completely harmless. Especially on a plate.

Terrible kawaku

However, one should not think that the people of Madeira are indifferent to meat: it is no coincidence that another dish of the local cuisine is espetada, something like beef kebab, the food is very simple and very tasty - if, of course, you take good meat. It is believed that the best espetada in Madeira can be tasted in fishing village Camara de Lobos.

Fish drying in the sun

View from one of the most high points southern part of the island

A story about Madeira would be incomplete without mentioning Madeira. The hot sun of Madeira helps produce this wine - barrels of wine are aged in the sun, thanks to which it acquires a dark amber color and a special caramel taste. Of course, these days there is more calculation and less romance in this process, but this does not make the wine any worse. Depending on the sugar content, Madeira can be drunk either before meals, as an aperitif, or with desserts. In this case, Madeira is often accompanied by bolo de mel cake, which is prepared with the addition of molasses.

Madeira and cupcake
On the cliff is the building of an old winery

I didn’t have time to tell you about the variety of local fruits and bolo do caco cakes, cable car and trout farms, Christopher Columbus and Cristiano Ronaldo, the beaches of Porto Santo and the streets of Machico. Madeira is a blessed island, and there are so many new impressions here that it’s time to write a separate book about them. But it’s best to go get them and discover Madeira in reality.

…And another view of the mountains
Small Funchal courtyard

Lapas grelhadas – Grilled shells

Lapas - or “limpets”, as the name of these mollusks is translated - are found in abundance around Madeira, and are sold at bargain prices in markets and shops. A sizzling skillet of tender lapas served right on the half shells is a great way to start any meal.

Ingredients

1 kg. shellfish lapas

2-3 cloves of garlic

butter

Crush or finely chop the garlic and mix with softened butter.

Rinse the lapas under running water and place in a grooved metal pan in a single layer, shells down. Place a pat of garlic butter on each clam.

Funchal - a city of contrasts

Place the pan with lapas under the hot grill for 5-10 minutes. If desired, sprinkle the finished lapas with chopped parsley, sprinkle with lemon juice and serve immediately.

And there are people living down there too
Fort, sea

Espetada Madeirense - Espetada in Madeiran

Espetada is a beef kebab that is prepared all over Portugal, but is especially loved in Madeira, where each family has its own, only correct, recipe for espetada. In its simplest form, this dish requires nothing more than meat, garlic, salt and bay leaf; other versions require a variety of seasonings and complex marinades.