Ergaki natural. Fabulous Ergaki: Lake of Artists, Parabola. Radial to Lake Bezrybnye
In the territory from the Urals to Kamchatka there are many traces of ancient civilizations, artifacts, city ruins, and huge incomprehensible structures. For example, in the territory of the unique natural park Ergaki in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Territory. It is amazing what can be found here.
Siberia is the ancestral home of our civilization, which, of course, is completely denied by scientists. Local residents from the Urals to Kamchatka can tell about the ruins of ancient cities and megalithic structures. All attempts to draw the attention of the scientific community to the findings were unsuccessful. And only independent enthusiastic researchers show genuine interest in this territory. It is necessary to conduct a study of the Stone Town in the Ergaki National Park.
Ergaki is a very popular place among tourists. All tourist groups must register. Not far from the road there is a base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and a ski resort, which was to be opened by Alexander Lebed in 2002. Largely thanks to him, the Ergaki Natural Park appeared. But a plane crash cut short the life of the Governor General. Now travelers come to the site of the tragedy and only then to the mountains. This is a tradition.
Ergaki is one of the ridges of the Western Sayan. In an area of only 15 by 20 kilometers, there are beautiful waterfalls, dozens of lakes and amazingly shaped rocks.
Lake Bolshoye is the first attraction of the park. Although tourists call it Svetly. It seems to glow against the background of the taiga, especially in sunny weather. Another version of the name is Holy. It resembles a dome on top. Its length is only a kilometer, but its depth is 60 meters. There are dozens of tents around the lake. Both savages and organized groups come to the health camp.
Not far from Svetly there is Lake Medvezhye. Previously, the owners of the taiga were seen there. They say that they even reached the camp and emptied their backpacks. They were probably looking for condensed milk.
The weather in Ergaki is changeable. Quite humid and there may be snow in the summer. Here, in addition to bears, you can find ermine, roe deer, lynx, wolverine, snow leopard and red wolf. The flora is also very diverse. In the park you can find several dozen rare and endangered plants.
Famous peak called Dragon's Tooth. In 2010, Krasnoyarsk extreme sports enthusiasts jumped from it. We prepared for a whole year. We ordered a helicopter. It was impossible to carry the equipment on oneself; only the ropes weighed half a ton. And all for the sake of five seconds of free flight. They are the only ones who have done this so far.
Ergaki is a specific system of peaks. There are even stones in a certain order. And in this system, on the Sleeping Sayan ridge, there is one Hanging Stone, which stands on the top of the mountain and it is not clear how it holds up without a support point. According to all the laws of physics, he should have fallen a long time ago.
How did this giant stand for many thousands of years? Unclear. Everyone comes up and tries to move him. According to legend, if the Hanging Stone falls, then the Sleeping Sayan will wake up and the world will be in some kind of danger.
Previously, Ergaki was considered a sacred territory. Here they were initiated into shamans. Each peak has its own legend. This very word “ergaki” translated from ancient Turkic means “fingers”. According to one legend, these are the fossilized fingers of the hero Enkul.
The gods appointed him and his brother Sayan to guard the sacred lakes. But Enkul was angry and envious and dreamed of defeating his brother. Therefore, he drank a magical drink, but overdid it, became a giant and fell underground. All that was left of him were his fingers. According to another legend, these fingers belong to a batyr - a spoiled young man who wanted to live with the gods. For this he was exiled to Tartarary.
But scientists have their own version. Ergaki owes its unusual topography to the climate that existed many millions of years ago. The mountains were covered with glaciers, then they retreated and at the same time, like bulldozers, knocked down the mountain peaks, giving them bizarre shapes. As if!
There is also a popular version, that this was the work of some ancient civilization that possessed energy unknown to us. It is not difficult to find huge rectangular blocks or completely smooth edges, perhaps these are traces of a grandiose dam built long before anyone built the pyramids in Egypt.
Some stones look as if they were melted after some kind of explosion. There is also polygonal masonry. There are rocks that look like they were mirror polished by someone. Some places are very similar to Mountain Shoria at the junction of the Sayans and Altai.
Thanks to glaciers, numerous mountain lakes were formed. One of the highest peaks of Ergaki is Ptitsa Peak, height 2221 meters. This peak is chosen by climbers and climbers. Twice a year, mountaineers of the regional federation hold training camps here. Here you can defend the first and second sports categories.
An international mountaineering festival was also held in Ergaki. There are no easy routes. Mainly routes for strong climbers. There are fives and sixes. You must be able to work well with ropes. The routes are rocky, but sometimes the weather is so “helpful” that they become very dangerous and cannot be walked.
Rock Oreshek
The weather is capricious; it often rains and snows in the summer. Then everything will become icy, try to pass. If you interfered, then you interfered specifically. The climber here learns to concentrate and control himself. It doesn’t come easy right away; it can be very difficult. But it is very useful in life.
The top photo shows the Parabola rock. How is this possible? Mathematical accuracy of proportions. Or maybe it really is a man-made object? After rain, the Parabola acquires a metallic sheen.
The Parabola and the Hanging Stone are probably the most famous attractions, one might say the symbols of Ergaki.
Nearby is the Lake of Mountain Spirits. If the spirits turn out to be out of sorts, and this happens often, then tourists find themselves in complete shambles. Everything is hidden by thick fog.
The cascading waterfall on the approach to the lake is very beautiful.
Lake of Artists. The beauty is indescribable, it is not surprising that painters flock here. After all, depending on the lighting, the landscape is constantly changing.
Expedition "ERGAKI Ridge (Western Sayan)". Vadim Osadchy.
In the center of the Eurasian continent, in the southern part of Siberia, lie one of the most picturesque and inaccessible mountains of Russia - the Sayans.
This mountainous country consists of majestic ridges stretching over a distance of more than one and a half thousand kilometers, and includes the Western and Eastern Sayans.
From the south and north the mountains border with the steppes and taiga forests of Tuva and Khakassia, from the west with the Altai mountains, and from the east with the deepest lake on the planet - Baikal.
Pointed peaks and endless valleys, wild rivers and clear lakes, alpine meadows and impenetrable taiga, rare flora and fauna make these places truly unique.
One of the most unique and unforgettable places of the Western Sayan, located in its central part, can be called the Aradansky and Ergaki mountain ranges. This is where the Ergaki Natural Park is located. The length of this specially protected natural area from south to north is about 74 kilometers, and from east to west – 108, which is approximately 343 thousand hectares of protected land.
The Ergaki Natural Park owes its name to a very unusual and amazingly beautiful system of mountains that form a common ridge. Although, if we look at them from a bird's eye view, we will see not quite ordinary mountains. The Ergak spurs do not form the usual system characteristic of the mountains of Siberia. It seems that these rocky peaks have just come together from different sides, and, before they have time to connect, they began to spin in a dance. Therefore, Ergaki is often called a “mountain node,” emphasizing the complexity of its extraordinary relief.
Numerous valleys and peaks of Ergakov and Aradan create unique images that capture the imagination of travelers. The mountain peaks, sharp and inaccessible, rise more than two thousand meters above sea level.
These places are also called the land of stone idols. Particularly impressive are the amazing shapes of the rocks, reminiscent of fairy-tale animals, ruins of castles and even silhouettes of people.The most unusual rock of the Ergaki ridge is Mount Brothers, which forms an almost perfect parabola shape. Its absolutely smooth walls are made of giant blocks. The polished surface of the rocks leads some researchers to believe that the “parabola” was artificially processed. The height of the rocks is commensurate with the scale of a hundred-story building. A natural phenomenon of such gigantic proportions has no analogues on the entire planet.
Scientists explain this shape of the mountains by the erosive activity of glaciers.
The Sayans acquired their modern appearance about two million years ago, during the Cenozoic era. During the Great Glaciation, these mountains were covered with thick ice.
With further warming, they, like bulldozers, cut off the peaks and carved out valleys with wide bottoms and steep slopes. Therefore, the size of river valleys in the Sayan Mountains often does not correspond to the low power of modern rivers.
Evidence of the rapid activity of glaciers are incredible piles of huge blocks - moraines, as well as dozens of clear glacial lakes.
People who inhabited these lands for thousands of years created numerous myths and legends about the mysterious mountains. Some of them tell that Ergaki is a favorite vacation spot of the Gods, who spent time here surrounded by stone toys that they brought here from all over the world.
Others argue that “Ergaki” is nothing more than the center of the Earth, on the tops of which the sky rests.
The word “Ergaki” can be translated from the ancient Turkic language as “finger of the earth.” Indeed, the main peak of the ridge - Finger, or Star Peak - is almost always shrouded in clouds, as if it were holding up the sky.
The most monumental natural sculpture of the park can be considered the Sleeping Sayan ridge, also called the Siberian Sphinx.
As the old-timers say, once upon a time, a very long time ago, the owner of the taiga lived in these parts. A simple and worthy man, he was the favorite of the gods. For his honesty and kindness to all living things, the Gods appointed him to guard their favorite place on Earth. For many years he
the shore of the richness of the local nature. He did not allow animals to be beaten, trees to be cut down unnecessarily, or grass to be trampled in vain. Understanding the language of animals and plants, he tried to help them in everything. And if evil tried to penetrate his domain, he punished him mercilessly. But the passage of time is inexorable. Old age came, and then death. The time has come for Sayan to leave for another world. The gods could not find another person like him on Earth and decided to turn Sayan to stone to protect these protected places. So he lies guarding eternity: long straight hair falls from his head, his hands rest calmly and majestically on his chest. They say that the Sleeping Sayan still keeps the wealth of the Gods.
Not far from the hero lies a huge stone. Local residents say: these places should not be disturbed, otherwise the monolith will fall and wake up Sayan. Many hundreds of people climbed to the Stone, trying to study the place of attachment. But it still remains unclear how a stone weighing more than a hundred tons remains motionless in place, because it rests on just a few centimeters and most of it hangs into the abyss.
The many-kilometer Ergaki ridge has kept the secrets of sacred places for thousands of years, separating the rocks and valleys from the ancient Uriankhai road, along which the famous Great Siberian Route passed. According to the ancients, only Gods and shamans could go beyond the ridge; ordinary people were forbidden to visit these places, so they worshiped the sacred mountains from afar. Even if you want to get there, it is really difficult to overcome the passes of the ridge. Impregnable, as if polished, rocks give way to valleys with impassable kurums - stone rivers made of multi-ton blocks. Some of the monoliths reach the height of a two-story house. Perhaps that is why these protected places remained untouched, and many of the names of rocks, valleys and lakes were lost or had no names at all. Contemporaries named them according to their ideas: Zerkalny Peak, Bird Peak, Star Peak, Skazka Pass, Svetloye Lake, Zolotoe Lake, Lake of Mountain Spirits.
Lake of Mountain Spirits is one of the most picturesque and high-altitude lakes in the park. It is located at an altitude of about 1600 meters in the saddle of the peaks Zvezdny, Ptitsa and Mount Parabola.
According to legend, the spirits of the mountains bewitched the two Brothers, leaving them here to guard fabulous treasures.
Another place shrouded in the secrets of ancient legends is Black Lake. They say that the lake is so deep that it has no bottom. Chernoe is located at an altitude of more than one and a half thousand meters at the foot of the Kurtushibinsky ridge.
From a bird's eye view, the lake water really appears black. Researchers explain this phenomenon by the depth of the reservoir, which has not yet been measured.
The natural park is decorated with dozens of picturesque lakes and waterfalls, hundreds of rivers, the largest of which is Us.
Ancient hydrological structures were discovered in the park: dams and bypass canals. Archaeologists also managed to discover sites of primitive man and find artifacts dating back to the Bronze and Iron Ages. Thus, these unique mountains have attracted people for hundreds of thousands of years.
The first studies of the vegetation of Ergakov began more than 100 years ago. For the first time, these places were visited by researcher, professor at Tomsk University, Porfiry Nikitich Krylov. The famous botanist in 1892 traveled to the Urenkhai region, now Tyva. The path lay along the Usinsk trail, passing at the foot of the Ergaki ridge, where the first scientific descriptions of some plant species were made. The systematic study of the flora of the Ergaki ridge was initiated by Nikolai Mikhailovich Martyanov, who first visited these areas in 1896.
At the beginning of the 20th century, many naturalists, fascinated by the little-studied and unique flora of Ergak, rushed to these places. Many unique plants are found only here and are therefore included in the “Red Book” of the Krasnoyarsk Territory and Russia.
On the territory of this natural park there are plants characteristic of the European part and Central Asia, North America and the Tien Shan.
Every year, with the arrival of spring, the most striking event in these parts is the flowering of alpine meadows. Thousands of swimmers, columbine and violets paint the mountain slopes in different colors.
If you're lucky, you can see the rarest flowers here: anemone, hazel grouse and an unusual primrose - Siberian kandyk.
Dark coniferous forests reign on the mountain slopes, giving way to tall-grass subalpine meadows and centuries-old cedar forests as the absolute height increases.
The mountain plateaus are dominated by tundra, covered with dwarf trees, thickets of bushes, moss and lichens.
Among the unusual plants that are not afraid of the concrete jungle are evergreen shrubs from the heather family - wild rosemary and rhododendron. The crimson, lilac and golden-yellow flowers of the bushes are especially picturesque against the backdrop of gray stones.
High humidity and proximity to water sources allow many herbs to reach incredible sizes, for example, plants of the buttercup and umbelliferae families can grow up to three meters.
Everything in these places is special, including the climate: in summer, in sunny weather, heavy rain and even hail can suddenly fall, and in winter, due to frequent snowfalls, the height of the snow cover sometimes reaches several meters. Severe frost, high humidity and bright sun make it possible to observe here the most beautiful natural phenomenon - the winter rainbow.
The special humid climate of Ergak is explained by the fact that the border of warm and cold air masses passes here: the Atlantic, Arctic and Central Asia.
An important place in the park's ecosystem is occupied by the dark coniferous taiga - this is a tall and dense forest stand, consisting mainly of fir, cedar (Siberian pine) and spruce. Such forests are also called black forests - this is a unique natural phenomenon.
The rarest plant species that existed in the pre-glacial era have been preserved in the black taiga. Now these virgin forests are considered by scientists as unique genetic reserves, important not only for the nature of Russia, but also for humanity as a whole.
The fauna of the natural park is quite rich and diverse. Its fauna includes both typical inhabitants of the taiga and species rare for Siberia.
On the territory of the natural park there are forty-nine species of mammals, five of which are listed in the Red Book of Russia, two hundred and thirteen species of birds, a quarter of which are rare, more than 15 species of reptiles, amphibians and fish.
Here, in the mountain taiga forests, you can meet a variety of representatives of deer: Siberian roe deer, red deer and even forest reindeer, and in the wetlands of the forest and mountain tundra - the largest of this family - elk. The height of the elk can reach more than two meters, and the length of its body is three and a half meters. At the same time, the span of an elk’s horns is sometimes more than one and a half meters. Due to its long legs and special ability to spread its hooves widely, such a large and heavy animal manages to move through deep snow and swampy swamps.
The smallest and most unusual artiodactyl that can be seen here is the musk deer. She has no horns, and males have long upper fangs, clearly visible from the outside. Musk deer is also called musk deer because of the scent gland located on its stomach. Musk deer musk is used in perfumery and oriental medicine, which is why it
the number of this animal was practically destroyed by the end of the 20th century. Now the musk deer population is gradually recovering. This animal, as a symbol of hope and rebirth, is depicted on the park’s logo.
Until the end of the 90s of the last century, in the territory of the natural park one could often see one of the rarest and most beautiful animals of Siberia - the snow leopard, or, as it is otherwise called, the snow leopard. The graceful cat prefers to live in mountainous areas. The snow leopard is most active at dusk and at night, traversing high mountain areas in search of prey. This is an unsurpassed hunter: the length of its jump can be more than 10 meters, which allows it to easily overtake its prey.
Today, thanks to the protection and conservation of the nature of the park, the population of ungulates has been restored, which in turn serve as the main food for the snow leopard. Recently, this cat and its tracks have been found in the areas bordering the park.
Also in the park you can find: bear, wolf, lynx, wolverine, wild boar, fox, sable, hare, chipmunk, pika.
Such a diversity of flora and fauna amazes everyone who has had the chance to see this protected corner of Siberia.
This unique ecosystem has been developing for millions of years, but recently it requires our participation. The main task of the park's creators is to save and preserve this rare natural complex.
An unusual combination of bizarre rocks and picturesque valleys, clear lakes and wild rivers, relict taiga and alpine meadows makes Ergaki Natural Park one of the unique places on the planet.
It is not for nothing that people have deified these places for thousands of years, because, according to ancient legend, Ergaki is the favorite vacation spot of the gods on Earth.
Vadim Osadchy, member of the Russian Geographical Society.
Photo by Vadim Osadchy.
The expedition took place in 2 stages.
The first stage took place in July 2008.
Visited: Lake Oyskoye, Lake Raduzhnoe, Lake Azure, Sleeping Sayan Range, Hanging Stone Outlier, Taigish Pass, Lake of Artists, Mountain Spirits Waterfall, Mountain Spirits Lakes, Zvezdny Peak Circus, Mount Parabola, Head Peak, Bird Peak, Bolshoye Svetloye Lake, the river Jerboa and Left Taigish.
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On the territory of several districts at once Krasnoyarsk Territory: Karatuzsky, Ermakovsky and Kuraginsky in Western Sayan there is a national wildlife park Ergaki.
The Ergaki mountain range of the Western Sayans means “fingers” in Turkic. If you look closely at the rocky ledges of the mountains, then indeed, many of them resemble outstretched fingers.
The nature of the Krasnoyarsk Territory is amazing and beautiful, it impresses with its diversity. The Ergaki State National Park can rightfully be called the most attractive place in the region.
Ergaki National Park in the Krasnoyarsk Territory.
Ergaki is a region famous for its unique stone idols, which are popularly called “chars”. Loaches are found everywhere in Ergaki. They are of different shapes and sizes and apparently symbolize different gods from the same “pantheon” of the local pagan faith. True, loaches do not always represent classical pagan idols - some of them have a shape and even form certain complexes. From the “shoulder” of the Ptitsa Pass you can even see the Sphinx, and from the Molodezhny Pass you can see the picturesque ruins of a medieval castle.
The beauty of this national park can be described endlessly. And not even because at the sight of them a person is overcome with endless admiration - not one of the Ergakov valleys is like the other: dozens of lakes, waterfalls, mountain peaks and circuses. All of them are beautiful in their own way, their uniqueness is captured in the poetic names - Lake Rainbow, Golden, Mountain Spirits, Light... Peaks Star, Bird, Dragon's Tooth, Sleeping Sayan... Marble Waterfall, Bogatyr, Grace, Ice...– only the enumeration of beauties captures the imagination and gives rise to the thought: “I have to go there!”. Can you imagine what sensations you will experience when you actually see all this, and even during the best “tourist” season?
Ergaki are the names of mountain peaks.
About many of the lakes, peaks and valleys are stacked legends. Probably the most popular concerns the Sleeping Sayan, a beautiful panorama of which opens from the Usinsky highway Abakan-Kyzyl.
Once upon a time, in ancient times, an amazing people lived in this area: the Sayans. They built their city on the shore of a large lake and lived cheerfully and happily. When the Sayans were preparing for the wedding of the most beautiful girl Oya with the leader’s son Kulumys, a guy named Zmeingo, in love with the girl, revealed the location of the city to the enemies. On the eve of the wedding, the tribe was attacked and the city was plundered. Kulumys was away - looking for a gift for the beautiful Oya - and did not know what misfortune befell his people. Oya rejected the traitor and turned into a river, and Kulumys, having learned about this, lay down and turned to stone. Following him, the ruins of the city turned to stone, and they now stand on the shores of Lake Oya. Legend says that the hero will wake up when “the stars turn over and what seemed like a dream becomes real.”
Ergaki is a unique natural corner of the Sayano-Shushensky State Biosphere Reserve, which, together with the Altai, “Maly Abakan” and the mountainous part of the Shushensky Bor national park, form the central part of a specially protected area in the Altai-Sayan ecoregion.
Today the Ergaki National Park is home to: brown bear and lynx, wolverine and sable, deer and roe deer, Siberian mountain goat, mink and even wild boar. Here you can find rare species of animals listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation - musk deer, snow leopard, red wolf and manul.
Rare animals of Ergaki National Park.
Pika (Shadak). Funny animal with funny ears.
The reserve contains many natural monuments: geological section along the Oresh river, landscape area “Stone Town”, “Cedar Site”, “Lake Oiskoe”, “Maralya Skala”, “Pine Toe” tract, “Relict Island” and others.
Ergaki - “Stone Town” in winter.
Lake Oyskoe. Ergaki Natural Park.
Wildlife is also rich here. Only rare and endangered plant species grow in Ergaki over 33 species!
22 species of birds listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation live here! These are such as: black stork, osprey, golden eagle, peregrine falcon, saker falcon and steppe kestrel.
And also - there are no mosquitoes or ticks here!
Ergaki National Park - birds.
The regime of the protected zone of the national park promotes the development ecological tourism, which is the most intensively developing form of recreation throughout the world. Ecotourism combines active recreation and educating people about the nature around them. For example, in the southern part of the park, in the upper reaches of the Bolshie Ury River, there is a cult mineral spring of the Tuvans, Arzhan Uru. In 1990, this area was allocated as a special religious and balneological zone. This means that the interests of the local population are not infringed upon in the created natural parks.
The beauty of these ancient mountains can enchant anyone once and for all. Having visited one wonderful corner in Ergaki, next time you will want to see something else. This could be: an unusual mountain lake, a waterfall or healing springs. Here you can go rafting down some rapids river, go fishing, for example, on Lake Buibinskoye, or hunt with a hunting instructor. Or you can simply set up camp on Medvezhye Lake and enjoy the pristine beauty of the cedar forest, an abundance of berries and mushrooms.
Garden of Stones. Ergaki Natural Park.
Ergaki has a favorite tourist area - this area of Svetly Lake, Zvezdny and Ptitsa peaks, Lake of Artists and Mountain Spirits, Molodezhny and Parabola passes, as well as areas Hanging Stone and Marble Falls.
View of Lake Svetloe from the Ptitsa pass.
According to experts, Ergakov’s modern natural and environmental capabilities allow it to receive about 80 thousand visitors annually, and in the future - up to 120 thousand people per year.
- February 15, 2016
Guys from the project L.E.T.O. Travelers rode around Russia on the Volga before it became fashionable. We are publishing Alesya Osadchaya’s story about “Ergaki” - a beautiful natural park in the Krasnoyarsk Territory.
Where is Ergaki Natural Park located?
The Ergaki Natural Park is a mountainous area in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Territory with a length of about 80 kilometers and an area of 342,873 hectares, one of the Western Sayan ridges, which is also called the “pearl of Siberia.” "Ergaki" is located in the very heart of Asia, between Khakassia and Tyva. Thanks to the unique natural conditions, an extraordinary world has formed there, the beauty of which will impress even an avid traveler! There is wild taiga, majestic mountain ranges with steep cliffs, and crystal clear mountain lakes. For Tuvan shamans this territory is considered sacred. In 2005, Ergaki Park received worldwide recognition and special status with its anniversary, hundredth number on the WWF list.
Another advantage of the park is that most hiking trails and parking areas are marked on a map, which can be obtained at the tourist center or downloaded on the Internet. All trails and passes are marked in different colors according to difficulty level (green, blue, red), and you can plan your route and possible stopping places in advance.
In Krasnoyarsk and Siberia, Ergaki is a very popular place for active and family recreation in nature. “Ergaki” is no less popular among climbers. Every year large training camps and mountaineering camps are held there. But in the European part of Russia, only a few people know about the mountain park.
When to go to Ergaki?
You can relax in the natural park all year round. In winter it snows constantly here, creating excellent conditions for off-piste skiing from late September to mid-May. There are also equipped trails with lifts. However, temperatures in winter can drop to -40 °C, so you will have to insulate yourself.
Summers are cool, with frequent temperature changes. At the end of June - July it can rain for weeks. The best time to visit is the first half of August. Although there is something to see in the park in June-July - this is the time of flowers that strew the slopes. In any case, a warm jacket, hat, waterproof shoes and a raincoat will not be superfluous - the weather in the mountains is very changeable.
How to get to Ergaki Park?
“Ergaki” attracts tourists not only with its beauty, but also with its accessibility: the park is crossed from north to south by the federal highway M-54 “Yenisei”. Just three to four hours at a leisurely pace from the highway - and you find yourself in the heart of the Western Sayans.
The cities closest to Ergaki are Kyzyl, Abakan, Minusinsk and Krasnoyarsk. But the most convenient way to get there is from Abakan. By car from the capital of Khakassia - 2–2.5 hours drive along the Usinsky tract (about 200 kilometers). You can park your car in the parking lot along the main trails for a fixed fee.
Along the same road you can take regular buses that run daily from Abakan, Krasnoyarsk, Novosibirsk or Kyzyl. The landing place is Tormozakovsky Bridge, the Tushkanchik River or the Podemny Stream (depending on your route). Keep in mind that night buses mostly travel non-stop.
You can also get from the railway station square in Abakan by Kyzyl taxis. In summer you can also get there by Gazelle. By prior arrangement, Gazelle drivers can pick them up from the highway on the way back.
Departure from the area, as a rule, is on the same regular buses or by passing transport. Please note that there are no populated areas near the entry/exit points (do not believe the old maps that show the villages of Buiba and others), and therefore you need to vote on the highway. Small groups and individuals can travel by KAMAZ to Abakan, Minusinsk or the Minusinskaya railway station (from there it is about 20 minutes to Abakan by train).
Where to stay in Ergaki?
Tourism in Ergaki is developing every year. In addition to tent camps in the mountains themselves, there are several permanent recreation centers that provide comfortable living conditions. Recreation centers in Ergaki are mainly located along the M-54 highway, that is, you can get to them by car or by regular bus.
No one is canceling tent camping. You can easily park anywhere. But it is forbidden to light fires, so you cannot do without a gas burner. You should also be wary of wild animals, in particular bears, which often enter the camps.
Recreation centers "Ergaki":
"Ergaki" (605 km)- eight warm cozy houses for large and small companies from 3 to 12 people. Pros: centralized heating, warm toilets. There are also hotel buildings with rooms from two to eight beds. A shower, washbasin, and warm toilet will not hurt either in winter or in summer. Ski slopes with lift.
"Gornaya Oya" (609 km)- eight-person residential houses, a cafe, a sauna-sauna, a ski track with a rope tow, rental of equipment for snowboarding and alpine skiing, “buns”. In summer, hiking and horseback riding routes are offered.
"White - Ergaki"(610 km)- warm houses for eight people, a Russian bathhouse, a cafe, a prepared piste with a lift, ski and snowboard rental.
"Jerboa" (622 km)- a house for eight people, a bathhouse, a parking lot.
“Sleeping Sayan” (622 km) - this is a whole tourist complex of several houses, a bathhouse, and a cafe. Activities offered: hiking in the mountains, rafting and fishing, there are sports grounds for playing volleyball and football, riding ATVs and snowmobiles, alpine and cross-country skiing.
« Snezhnaya (611 km) - a good ski slope with a lift, several living rooms, a bathhouse, a cafe. Entertainment: in winter - snowboarding and alpine skiing, in summer - hiking trails in the surrounding area, hunting and fishing.
Zaimka "Zolotoy Us" (645 km)- seven tourist houses with four beds each, a bathhouse, and a cafe. The base is located in a coniferous forest in an ecologically clean place, at the confluence of the Buiba and Us mountain rivers. Hiking trails are offered in summer and snowmobiling in winter.
Tent camp "Pearl of Sayan" located in the mountains on Lake Uyutnoye, there is a dining room and a bathhouse.
Tent camp "Free City" located in the mountains on Lake Svetloe, there is a dining room, a bathhouse, toilets, and it is possible to recharge gadgets. There is a “backpack lifting” service.
There are also tourist camps on Lake Raduzhny, in the Tushkanchik tract, as well as the bases “Cossack Key” and “Stone City”.
If you want to enjoy the mountains and see the maximum number of attractions in Ergakov, then the best option is to stay in a tent camp right in the mountains on the shore of the lake and go on radial hikes for a day or two. If you live permanently at one of the recreation centers and go only on daytime routes, then you will practically not see “Ergaki”.
Almost all tent cities hold morning exercises, competitions, a bathhouse in the evenings, and then, if not an entertainment program, then at least gatherings around the fire with a guitar. Some camps offer yoga and fitness tours, self-development training, mountain tourism schools, bicycle tours, photo tours, and rafting on the Oya River. But the main thing in all of them is hiking to local attractions, which we will talk about later.
Route through the Ergaki natural park
You can start the route from other points, but we chose “Jerboa” as the most optimal for exploring the places where we wanted to visit.
Walk along the path from the tourist center “Jerboa” for three to four hours at a leisurely pace along the seething river. There are colored markers everywhere, so it's hard to get lost. There is a constant smooth climb, except for a couple of good takeoffs. Along the way there are many springs from which you can drink. At all main forks there are signs to key points of tourist routes - passes, peaks, waterfalls, lakes.
Near Svetly Lake there is a tourist base “Free City”, where you can rent a tent for a fee and use a shared kitchen, bathhouse and other services, but we stood a little away - on the shore of the lake with a picturesque view of the Zvezdny and Ptitsa peaks. The only negative is the shady side in the morning. And in the mornings it can be quite cool even in summer.
Lake Svetloe. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Lake Svetloe. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Bird Pass
This is one of the easiest routes. The ascent from Lake Svetly took about three hours. We got caught in the rain a few times, but decided to ignore it.
Due to my short stature, I was not able to climb up to the top, but my friend Zhenya and the guys easily overcame the climb with belay and ropes and after 15 minutes were already at the top. Even older people can climb Ptitsa Peak, the main thing is to have a good instructor.
It was cloudy at the top and a stormy wind was blowing, which drove the clouds through the ridge into the valley towards the lake - almost zero visibility. Periodically, the clouds cleared, and for a couple of minutes a stunning panorama of the valley, the Parabola Pass and the Lake of Mountain Spirits opened up.
Bird Pass. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Bird Pass. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Rock formation Parabola (Brothers)
Consists of two peaks of different sizes and heights, connected by a bridge. The contour of this jumper has a very smooth and regular, truly parabolic outline. The rocks that make up Parabola have a very smooth, “polished” surface, which also leads some researchers to think about the artificial processing (if not the origin) of this remarkable rock. On the Younger Brother side, in the valley there is an emerald lake, shaped like an almost regular rectangle with rounded edges. It is called Lake of Mountain Spirits. According to an ancient legend, these spirits bewitched the two brothers, leaving them here to guard fabulous treasures. In “Ergaki” there are legends about almost all the sights, one more beautiful than the other.
Rock formation Parabola. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Lake Zolotarnoye and Pikanny Pass
The path to these places lies through the Vidovka pass. So named because it is a small plateau with excellent views of the surrounding area. All trails are marked with markers of different colors, so it is quite difficult to get lost.
In front of the lake, a beautiful sign showed us the way further, but on the way the path was flooded. We walked ankle-deep (and sometimes knee-deep) in water. About five minutes later we came out onto the stone shore of Lake Zolotarnoye, and around there were high rocks with “mirrors” - these are steep mountain slopes, which in clear weather reflect sunlight very well, and they sparkle beautifully. The valley with the lake was surrounded by such rocks, and when the sun came out, the sight was amazing!
The trail went smoothly upward, and after a couple of hours we climbed the Pikanty pass. One of the participants in our expedition, Zhenya, is an adventure lover. He decided to climb Zvezdny Peak, and it almost cost him his life. While we were waiting at the pass, a cyclone came with gusty winds and hail. We took cover under large rocks that formed a small cave, and Zhenya almost fell off the rock from a gust of wind while trying to climb higher.
In addition to the places described above, there are many other interesting attractions in the mountain cluster of the park. Most of them have original names due to their natural contours. The most popular are the Zvezdny and Ptitsa peaks, and the Sleeping Sayan rock ridge, about which there are a large number of myths and legends.
Lake Zolotarnoe. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Near Lake Zolotarnoe. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
The “Hanging Stone” deserves special attention - a huge granite fragment lying on the edge of the cliff. No less beautiful are the Parabola, Khudozhnikov, and Pikanny passes, which offer views of terraces with mountain lakes and gorges. The most picturesque lakes are Buibinsky (Rainbow, Karovoe, Svetloye), Mramornoe (Jerboa), Zolotarnoye, Medvezhye, Mountain Spirits. And thanks to the relief, rivers form many waterfalls along their path.
Two natural sites in the park have the status of natural monuments. One of them, “Stone City”, is a complex of bizarre rocks in the spurs of the Kulumys ridge. It is located on the opposite side of the Usinsky tract, a little to the side. The other is Lake Oyskoe, a large alpine lake formed in the pre-glacial era.
The choice of route and objects depends only on your desire and physical fitness.
About a hundred thousand tourists visit the park every year (we are talking about registered tourists). On weekends, near the most popular mountains there is an influx of people wanting to wander among the rocks, shrouded in fog and taiga.
In “Ergaki” it is customary to greet all tourists passing by. So don’t be surprised by the frequent “hello”, “hello”, “good afternoon” and be sure to answer them in kind.
Piquant Pass. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
Piquant Pass. Photo: Alesya Osadchaya
- Be sure to complete the mandatory registration at the tourist center indicating the number of people in the group and the approximate route (you can also get a map of the main hiking trails there).
- Place a tent in the middle of the camp, so that there are neighbors and help nearby if something happens. You can read the memo in case of an encounter with a bear.
- If you meet a bear, you cannot look him in the eyes, be calm, when the bear approaches, you can shout and wave your arms, this way you tell the clubfoot that you are not intimidated; if there are still people nearby, it is better to stand together to scare away the bear, who will mistake the group of people for a large animal.
- Ask the Ministry of Emergency Situations specialists to provide instructions on the correct response in emergency situations.
- Do not store food in the tent (this is very important - a bear, smelling food, may attack you).
And of course, a supply of food for the duration of the trip. There are quite a lot of springs, so you won’t be left without water.
, the editorial staff of PrtBrt thanks Anastasia Romanova and Alesya Osadchaya for the opportunity to publish the material.
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Ergaki. Lake of Artists. August 26th, 2016
Lake of Artists turned out to be our third base in Ergaki and, in fact, the key one. But it seems that it was key not only for us, but also for many other tourists passing here. Yes, Lake of Artists is really worthy of attention and it is difficult for a photographer to ignore it if he has already come to Ergaki. But, unfortunately, now there are too many people here, and this despite the fact that you can only get here by overcoming one of the passes, which only people in normal physical shape can do. However, we managed to find a good place for camp without much difficulty. Nevertheless, although in the vicinity of the lake one could count several dozen tents, and sometimes even notice individual people with tripods, only ours was such a distinct photographic group. It took less than an hour to go down, the walk here is very close, and when we arrived, and even later, when we had already set up and even had lunch, Lake Khudozhnikov remained covered with fog. And when the time came for photographic exploration of the territory, it was precisely this circumstance that they tried to use for artistic purposes.
The entire first day at Lake Khudozhnikov passed in exactly this vein. Well, there is something in this too.
Lake of Artists is one of the most important attractions of Ergaki, but on the lake itself one of the main attractions is this island with a cedar tree, it should be in the photographs of any photographer who has been here.
The first day was completely foggy, but the morning of the second day was encouraging, the fog began to rise, and the sun warmed the valley. In the photo below, there is just a view of the Khudozhnikov Pass, through which we will have to leave from here.
Daytime is not very creatively interesting for a photographer, but you can take a walk. We used this time to hike to the pass to a large blockage.
There are also a lot of mushrooms here. Although Andrey Chernov came here to study photography, the main lure of hiking for him, as for most tourists, is hunting, fishing and gathering.
Of course, you won’t find firewood nearby, but if you move further away, you can gather it for the fire.
In addition to the island on the lake, there is an even more significant attraction - Parabola. This is the name given to two characteristic rocks hanging over the lake. I managed to shoot it at the wrong time in the world. Here I had to get a little tricky, the Parabola couldn’t fit into my 24 mm, so that there was at least some kind of foreground, so I had to run a panorama in three rows at 50 mm.
And then a wonderful evening came and it became clear that today the sky could sparkle with sunset colors. The angles were already known; all that was needed was to take a position and wait for the presentation.
The situation is still more daytime, but the picture is already not bad.
There is always a certain mystery in the sunset itself, and even just when you observe it, it is impossible to remain indifferent. All the movements of the clouds, the moment-to-moment transitions from tone to tone, all this responds with some subtle movements in the soul. It's like there's a melody inside. You don’t hear any sounds, but the sensations are close to that.
And then it was night and we were filming the Milky Way over Parabola.
