Report on the ascent to Munku-Sardyk. Climbing Munku-Sardyk - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains (3491 meters) Is it possible to climb Munku-Sardyk in July

“The only thing better than mountains is mountains... Which I haven’t been to before.” Even if someone does not know this song by Vladimir Vysotsky in its entirety, these lines have been heard and quoted by many. And those in love with the mountains, even more so.
We dream of conquering a peak that has already conquered us. This time we couldn’t, but the uncontrollable desire to return and try again was lodged deep in our hearts and was just waiting in the wings to break free.

Munku Saridak is a natural artifact.

Munku Saridak (popularly we call it Sardyk), the highest point of the Eastern Sayan Mountains. At an altitude of 3491 m, it nestles comfortably on the border of Mongolia and the Republic of Buryatia. The path to the top passes through mountain icefalls, steep climbs, deep snow and unpredictable rockfalls. The path to the top is marked by dangerous surprises, but tourists who are in love with the mountains, people who want to test themselves, understand what they are capable of, experience a sense of freedom, flight and unconditional happiness, come here again and again. Having failed to reach the top once, they repeat their ascents annually.

Climbing route to Munku Sardyk

Climbing Mount Munka usually starts from a place called “Strelka”. Why "usually"? Because there are two options for climbing: the right one and the not so good one. We chose the “not very correct” option. We decided to reach the peak at 3491 m immediately from 1500 m. Without thinking about the fact that the body needs to acclimatize at least 1000 m at each distance. Therefore, the correct option is two overnight stays: one on Strelka (1500 m), the other on Lake Ekhoy ( 2600 m). But spending the night in a tent when it’s minus 20 outside is also a certain kind of adrenaline. Therefore, we decided to take a risk, but not sleep for two nights in a cold, frozen tent.
The arrow is located at an altitude of 1500 m above sea level. Along the riverbed of the White Irkut on the right side there is a forest, in which all tourists spend the night in clearings.
You should leave Strelka for the ascent early in the morning, from about 6-00 to 8-00.
And the first dangerous and difficult obstacle is the icefall.


Here we put on crampons and helmets, pick up an ice ax and... go ahead.




The water, covered with delicate greenish-blue ice, created a huge ice mountain with steep jumps.


Looking back at the path you’ve traveled, you think, if you suddenly slip… there probably won’t even be anything to collect at the bottom. Therefore, an ice ax and crampons are our everything when overcoming an icefall.


Another danger is rockfall. From under the feet of tourists who have gone ahead, the path crumbles and stones fly down at breakneck speed onto those explorers who are walking slower or who entered the route later. Therefore, a helmet is safety.
Having overcome the icefall, the going becomes a little easier. Boundless expanses of plateau, surrounded by mountain ranges; the blinding sun reflecting from the snow with millions of sparks. Here the splendor of nature is felt with greater force.

We overcome two steep climbs and reach Lake Echoy.

Only here, on the lake, does Munku appear before us in all his grandeur and stature, cutting through the blue of the sky with his peak. Eternally white char – this is what the peak is called in translation from Buryat. Strict, serious and seemingly unapproachable. It seems that you are not conquering her, but she is thinking about who to let in and who will come next time.
Menacingly stern and so magnificent in her silent existence. Oh God, I think I'm in love! It seems that everyone here has fallen in love!)

On the lake, everyone usually has a hearty lunch, rests to the maximum, gains strength, gets their second wind (or maybe someone is already on their third or fourth).

We cross the lake straight ahead and there are two steep climbs up to the pillows.


You have to climb in the snow, but if a regiment of tourists passed in front of you, then there are already steps from boots, so it’s easier.

The first cushion has been overcome. There is a second one ahead.
And then... all my dreams collapsed overnight.
My faithful travel companion had a mining accident.
For those who don’t know about this disease, and we also didn’t know anything about it until this moment, it’s simply a difficulty in breathing. It becomes difficult to breathe, it is impossible to take a breath, the heart rate increases. In short, we need to go down.

I honestly admit that when you see the top, you lose a little sense of reality. It is very difficult to tell yourself: “This is it, your path to the top is over this time. You will come here, but it will be next time!” It is very difficult to accept this, to realize that this happened to you. It just brings tears to my eyes. There is a serious struggle going on inside: to continue the journey and leave a fellow traveler, or to remember that there is nothing more important than human life and health, that a friend is known in trouble. As in another song by V. Vysotsky: “Take a friend to the mountains - take a risk. Don’t leave one thing – him!”
We have to bring ourselves back from this narcotic state. You look at this unconquered peak, standing motionless in the rays of the midday sun, and think: “What a pity, but apparently not this time!”
Having not conquered it, we descended. But I will definitely come back here next year.

Crampons, helmets, a jacket and other belongings are sticking out of the backpack: I don’t have the strength to put everything back into the backpack)) Let’s go down...

Well, those who can go further will have to overcome one more steep climb (this is after the second snow cushion) and reach the finish line - the ascent itself. Here you will need a rope and carabiner, crampons and an ice ax. If you don’t, there is a risk that the Ministry of Emergency Situations who are on duty in the mountains will turn you around and send you back. When we went, many descended without conquering it precisely for this reason: there was either an ice ax, or crampons, or a carabiner.

How to get to Strelka - before the ascent begins.

We leave Irkutsk - Mondy along the Shelekhovsky tract, towards Kultuk, then turn to Arshan, Zhemchug.
Distance – 304 km. Travel time by car from Irkutsk is approximately 3.5 - 4 hours.

Drive under the bridge. We leave the car here)

We enter Mondy through the border checkpoint (read below for how to obtain permission to enter the border zone), pass Mondy and immediately after the village (there is a sign) turn right into Orlik. We drive along a gravel road for 20 km. We reach the bridge over Irkut and turn right directly under the bridge. You can leave your car here. Further - on foot.

Ready to go)

We walk along the icy riverbed of the White Irkut, among overhanging rocks and mountain ranges, about 1.5-2 hours to Strelka.

Right all the time. There are a lot of people on May holidays, so it’s difficult to get lost, since everyone goes in the same direction. On Strelka you can set up a camp in the middle of the forest. There is firewood and clearings where you can set up tents for the night.
There is a good business along this stretch among the local population: your backpack will be taken on an ATV to Strelka for 300 rubles. You can also be given a ride at the same rate.


Of course, you can drive rather than walk, but don’t deprive yourself of the pleasure of walking along a frozen river, where melted waters gurgle in places in the thawed areas.
The panorama of the picturesque gorge, where the waters of White Irkutsk are about to flow after a long Siberian winter, is breathtaking. The rocks hang right above your heads, and from the surrounding terrain it’s not difficult to guess that landslides and rockfalls are not uncommon here.

White Irkut Gorge

What to take with you when climbing Munku Saridak and other tips.

From things:
- tent;
— a sleeping bag for a temperature of minus 20;
- Primus (or burner);
- a windproof jacket and windproof pants (there is an icy wind on the lake and there is nowhere to hide from it). Those who have been to the top say that there is simply a gusty wind that can blow you to Mongolia, be careful :)
— waterproof shoes (preferably trekking, winter);
- mittens or gloves (plus spare ones);
— a butt pad (a must, you’ll see what comes in handy);
- sunscreen or a bandage to cover your face.
- Sunglasses

Equipment:
— cats (can be rented);
- ice ax;
— helmet (required, heavy rockfall);
- ski or trekking poles.

All my belongings don’t fit into the car, I have to cram them in :)

Tips (you don’t have to use them, but for general information):
1. Be sure to spread a thick layer of cream on your face. Do not smear the cream over your face so that it is not visible, but rather put it on your face in a layer. Snow reflects the sun's rays and everything that is not covered or covered simply burns. We saw burnt (not tanned, but burnt) faces - like something out of a horror movie.
2. It is advisable to wear shoes that have already been worn (not new). In new shoes, there is a high probability of rubbing calluses, and this will inevitably lead to returning halfway.
3. If during the climb you feel that you are feeling unwell, there is a rapid heartbeat, dizziness, it is difficult to take a deep breath, shortness of breath - it is better to descend. During the May ascents, the Ministry of Emergency Situations works on Munku Sardyk and they, of course, lower those who feel ill. But in my opinion, it is better not to bring it to a critical state and refuse further ascent, since this has happened to your health.
4. The most correct way is to climb (as instructors working on this route say) - it is a gradual adaptation. The first night must be spent at an altitude of 1500 - on Strelka.
Spend the second night on the lake at an altitude of 2600.
If you still choose the right climb for yourself (the health-friendly option), then be sure to take a primus stove (burner) with you. There is no firewood on the lake.
Those who go to the top from Strelka in one day need a little physical preparation, no mountain climbing, and a hearty lunch on the lake.
5. A hearty lunch with hot tea is very important. Take with you a small thermos, sweets, energy-rich foods (nuts, for example). Many had apples, bananas, etc. with them.
6. The decisive role in our negative result was played to a large extent by the incorrect organization of the ascent for beginners (more precisely, its absence). For example, the organization of the ascent included lunch, but the organizer did not take it. And when all the other groups were drinking tea and admiring the views, we, tired, sat in the icy wind and drank icy water.
7. If you are going to go with an instructor, choose him only on someone else's recommendation. While everyone was resting among the rocks, hiding from the wind and gaining strength, we ran like crazy after the instructor, who really wanted to reach the peaks as quickly as possible. And besides, your safety is in the hands of the instructor. However, we were a little unlucky in this part and our instructor, having received 10 thousand rubles from us for our safety, abandoned us almost at the top and went his own way. We went down alone, and the descent is much more dangerous than the ascent. In addition, strength is already running out, which is why attentiveness, vigilance, and balance are lost.
Therefore, I advise you to choose an instructor only by recommendation.
8. In these places you can not only conquer the peak of Munku Sardyk, but also simply relax with family or friends, wander along taiga trails, climb the Obzorny peak, watch the confluence of the White and Black Irkuts, collect wild medicinal herbs, and just inhale the smell mountains
9. On the way back we stopped at the pool to lie down.

What time to go to Munku Sardyk.

The most crowded times for going to Munku Sardyk are the May Day and May 9 holidays.
During this period, it is no longer so cold to sleep in a tent at night. And besides, you can only get to the foot of the peak along the Irkut riverbed. At this time he is still hiding under the ice.
From the Mongolia side of Lake Khuvsgul, ascents are made all year round.

Are the services of a guide, guide, or instructor necessary when climbing Munku Sardyk?

Climbing Munku-Sardyk (3491 meters) - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains - is a serious test for trained tourists. In summer the route is quite simple, but in winter its complexity increases significantly: short daylight hours, negative air temperatures, icy snowy slopes - all this makes the climb difficult.

• 6 years of experience in organizing winter ascents
• Dozens of climbers of different ages have reached the summit
• Upon completion, a certificate of ascent is issued, as well as a commemorative badge of the tourist club
• All necessary group winter equipment is provided

This region of the Eastern Sayan Mountains compares favorably with the rest due to its lack of snow. In the foothills there is almost no snow at all. This allows you to hike and climb on foot, without skis or snowshoes. The region is also characterized by clear, frosty weather in winter. Average temperatures are -25°...-35°С, which for us, residents of central Russia, may seem very impressive. But for the Eastern Sayan region this is not so much; children continue to go to school, since the air is dry and such temperatures are tolerated much more easily than here.

The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located on the very border of Russia and Mongolia. Climbing this inaccessible peak requires excellent physical fitness and sufficient sports training. Only in this case will you be able to climb the majestic peak.

The ascent to Munku-Sardyk passes through the most beautiful and harsh places, the passage through which brings a lot of positive emotions and impressions. The highlight of the area is the abundance of ice and icefalls; you are unlikely to see such huge blue icefalls anywhere else. Well, visiting Lake Baikal in winter is also worth a lot. We will spend the night in a special tent-hangar “Artiktika” for winter hikes with a stove so we don’t freeze.

Why choose us?

Equipment rental

We will provide you with quality equipment at a reasonable price. You have the opportunity
travel lightly and save a lot of money.

This route has been successfully completed by our club many times, all organizational details have been checked and worked out to the smallest detail.

Discount

Those who go on a hike with our tourist club for the second or more time receive a discount on participation from 5%.

Great climb

A personal manager will advise you at all stages of preparation, help you get ready for your trip, and give recommendations on purchasing tickets and equipment.

Fill out the application and, closer to the start, make a small advance (from 10%) in the most convenient way for you. The rest of the amount is due on the start day.

Reliability

Our tourist club is officially registered, enters into contracts and pays taxes. Experienced instructors on the routes. Only modern and high-quality equipment is used.

1. Route and requirements 2. Hiking plan 3. Cost of participation 4. Equipment recommendations

Slyudyanka station - Lake Baikal - Kyren village - Mondy village - White Irkut river - Muguvek river - Mount Munku-Sardyk (3,491 meters) - White Irkut river - Zhemchug village - Lake Baikal - Slyudyanka station.

Required documents: passport, medical insurance policy

Physical training requirements for participants: The ascent is quite difficult, it requires both physical and technical preparation, good equipment, taking into account the winter conditions of the ascent

1 day

Meeting at the Slyudyanka railway station. The city of Slyudyanka is located on the shores of Lake Baikal, a 2-hour drive from Irkutsk. The city is connected to Irkutsk by regular bus services (minibuses depart from the bus station every 30 minutes), and there are also electric trains. The group gathers before lunch, local time, since several trains arrive around lunchtime, which the participants usually take to get there. Those who arrive earlier can still take a walk to Lake Baikal. Next, transfer by car to the mountains; the journey takes 4-5 hours. Along the way, stop in the Buryat village of Kyren for a snack in a cafe. Throw to a height of approximately 1,600 meters. Setting up camp, overnight.

Day 2

Along the frozen river, on ice up the valley of the White Irkut River. Gradually, the river is surrounded by high rocks, the river flows in a canyon. At the top through a cascade of blue icefalls. The transition from Camp 1 to Camp 2 takes about 5 hours. On the way we stop for lunch. The final section is quite steep and consists of a cascade of low waterfalls. It requires crampons, some years even rope to hold on. Overnight on the border of the forest, at an altitude of approximately 2,100 meters.

Day 3

The ascent climbs along a wide valley to a frozen lake. The journey takes 3-4 hours. The forest is left behind, only snow and rocks are ahead. Setting up an assault camp at an altitude of 2,600 meters.

4 day

Early rise. Climbing to the highest point of the Sayan Mountains - Munku-Sardyk (3,491 meters). At the top there is a rise in crampons. There are often strong winds, which, combined with frosty weather, poses a serious challenge. The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located right on the border of Russia and Mongolia. It offers a beautiful view to the south, Lake Khubsnugul and the surrounding area. Descent along the ascent path.

5 day

Reserve day in case of bad weather. If you're lucky with the weather, you can go back down to the edge of the forest and climb the blue waterfalls.

Day 6

Descent in the valley of the White Irkut River. A chartered bus awaits us at the bottom of the road. We are going to Slyudyanka. On the way we will stop at hot springs. From there to the Slyudyanka railway station. Estimated arrival time is 19-20 hours local time. In the evening, you can plan to travel by train or bus to Irkutsk. The bus station in Slyudyanka is located 10 minutes from the railway station. Buses to Irkutsk depart every 30 minutes, the journey takes 2 hours.

The route or schedule along the route can be adjusted on the spot, based on weather conditions, the preparedness of the group and other circumstances.

Program cost: 15 900 rub.

Included in the price:

• Transfer from Slyudyanka station to the White Irkut River and back (by car);
• Meals along the route (we cook over a fire, on burners);
• Visit to hot springs;
• Group equipment (winter hangar tent “Arctic”, tourist stove, GAS, burner, pharmacy);
• Instructor;
• Registration of a pass to the border zone (issued a month before the start, a copy of the passport is required);

The price does NOT include:

• Transport to Slyudyanka-1 station and back (a regular bus runs from Irkutsk every hour, the journey takes 2 hours);
• Snack on the road, while being dropped off by car;

Clothes and shoes:

• Insulated boots for crampons;
• Rubber boots or EVA (for driving along the river, when walking the route in the spring);
• Gaiters or shoe covers with galoshes;
• Socks: 2-3 pairs of cotton, 1-2 pairs of wool or insulated;
• Thermal underwear top + bottom;
• 2 pairs of pants, trekking trousers (cotton, membrane, fleece, etc.);
• Windproof pants, raincoat;
• T-shirts 2-3 pieces, warm jacket or sweater 2-3 pieces;
• Jacket with a hood, anorak, down vest;
• Warm down jacket with a hood;
• Gloves, insulated gloves or mittens;
• Several hats, a cap or bandana, a balaclava;

Personal equipment:

• Backpack 90-120 liters, backpack cover;
• Sleeping bag (comfort temperature -5C°), mat, popper;
• Headlamp + spare set of batteries;
• Dishes: mug, spoon, bowl, knife, thermos 0.5-1 L, matches;
• Sunglasses or ski mask;
• Personal first aid kit: remedies for colds and food poisoning, wide bandages, elastic bandages, medications prescribed by doctors;
• Hygienic lipstick;
• Hygiene kit: toilet paper, toothbrush and toothpaste, soap and towel;

Special equipment:

• Helmet;
• Ice ax;
• Cats;
• Harness or safety system + 3 carabiners + self-belay;
• Trekking poles;

Cost of equipment rental for climbing participants

*The cost is indicated in rubles for the climbing period

Climbing Munku-Sardyk (from Buryat “eternal white char”)

We invite you to take part in the ascent to the highest point of Eastern Siberia - Munku-Sardyk (3491 m above sea level). The mountain is located on the territory of the Republic of Buryatia and, at the same time, Mongolia, since the border runs right along the top. Therefore, you will not only climb to the highest point of Eastern Siberia, but also visit Mongolia. The name of the mountain is translated from the Buryat language as eternally white char. This is actually true: the Munku-Sardyk massif is covered with a glacier, and even in summer there is snow here. At the foot, at an altitude of 2650, there is an incredibly beautiful lake. Absolutely round, framed by the majestic mountains of the Big Sayan, from above it resembles the eye of a dragon: bluish-green in summer, and frozen in winter and frozen with ice.

Tour dates in 2019: from 05/01/19 to 05/05/19, from 05/09/19 to 05/12/19

Duration 5 days, 4 nights.

Cost of the trip per person 11,000 rubles.

Tour program

Day 1. Check-in.

Departure from Irkutsk. On the way by vehicle, we overcome the Andrianovsky Pass, upon descent from which a stunning view opens up of the southern tip of Lake Baikal and the Khamar-Daban ridge with its snow-capped peaks. Next we enter the territory of the Republic of Buryatia, and our path passes through the picturesque Tunka Valley, surrounded on two sides by mountains: on one side the old man Khamar-Daban, on the other - the pointed peaks of the Eastern Sayan rising to the sky. They, like stationary guards, will accompany us to the border village of Mondy, where we will make a short stop to receive a special pass to visit the border zone. After another twenty kilometers, the bus will take us to the White Irkut River, where the path upward will begin. Today we will walk about five kilometers to the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek rivers. The base camp is located here (1650 m above sea level). Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents.

Day 2. Acclimatization.

After breakfast we go out to the first route - acclimatization. Today we have to climb to the peak called Obzornaya (2900 m above sea level). It offers views of the entire nearby mountainous region. Return to base camp in the evening. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 3. Ice and snow activities / Acclimatization.

Breakfast. Today we will climb the peak of 60 years of October or “Katka-dura” (3065m above sea level)! Our route takes us up the White Irkut River to the Gorny Pass (3050 m above sea level), the difficulty category of which is 2A. From the saddle of the pass along a ridge of medium difficulty to the summit itself. In 2005, snow leopard tracks were seen on the pass! Here our future goal will open before us - Munku-Sardyk himself. Also from the top of the peak there is a stunning view of almost all the peaks and passes of this mountainous region. On the way back we will descend from the Gorny pass to the other side of the ridge and return to the camp along the Muguvek River. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 4. Climbing Munku-Sardyk.

Early breakfast. Ascent along the Muguvek River to Lake Echoy, located at an altitude of 2650 m above sea level. Rest. Snack. Climbing Munku-Sardyk. From the top you can clearly see the Mongolian lake Khubsugul - the brother of Baikal, going far to the south. Here you can easily cross the border: step forward and you are in Mongolia, step back and you are in Russia. Rest. Snack. Descent to the lake. Return to base camp. Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents.

Day 5.

Breakfast. A well-deserved rest. Camp gathering. Return to Irkutsk.

tour cost: 11,000 rubles per person.

Included in cost

• transfer Irkutsk city - Bely River Irkut - Irkutsk city;
• obtaining a pass to the border zone;
• support of experienced guides;
• accommodation in a winter tent with a stove or in separate 2-3 person tents (your choice);
• nutrition;
• rental of group equipment (bivouac and campfire equipment).

Rent of individual equipment (sleeping bags, backpacks, crampons, ice axes, etc.) is possible for an additional fee.

Notes

• the total length of the pedestrian part of the route is 40 km;
• Attention! Depending on weather conditions and the condition of the group, changes to the tour program are possible at the discretion of the instructor.

Required personal equipment

1. A cap;
2. Sunglasses (at least 3 degrees of protection, welding possible);
3. Down jacket;
4. Storm jacket and pants (windproof);
5. Mittens (1 pair of fleece, gaiter, 1 pair of spare);
6. Trekking or mountain boots (it is advisable to have a spare pair for being at the base camp);
7. Shoe covers (gaiters, flashlights);
8. Socks (2 pairs) + wool or thermal socks;
9. Backpack 80–100 liters;
10. Polyurethane foam mat (karimat);
11. Sleeping bag (with temperature range from -10° C);
12. Flashlight (preferably headlamp);
13. Ice ax;
14. Cats;
15. KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife).
16. Personal first aid kit.

ATTENTION!

To obtain passes to the border zone, documents must be submitted 3 weeks before the expected start date of the tour! For foreign citizens - 2 months in advance.

Munku-Sardyk, the highest point of the Sayan Mountains, with a height of 3491 meters, is a cult peak for climbers of Buryatia and Irkutsk. Every year at the beginning of May hundreds of people who want to climb there come there, fortunately, a proven tourist route has been laid out

I had a desire to visit Munku-Sardyk a year ago, as soon as I started communicating with climbers and learned about the annual pilgrimage to this mountain. A year ago it didn’t work out for personal reasons, but this time I decided to visit Munku-Sardyk at all costs.

Preparation

Let me remind you that Munku-Sardyk is located on the border of Russia and Mongolia - beyond the reverse slope there is already the territory of a foreign state. Accordingly, it is a border zone, to enter which you need to issue a pass. I became concerned at the end of March, and applied for a standard one, for a period of a year, instead of the previous one, the term of which was just ending.

There was also the question of who to go with - an experienced escort was needed. Several familiar climbers were going to Munku-Sardyk, but no one was particularly eager to take them with them, citing the fact that sometimes even trained people cannot cope with the climb, but experienced athletes will go at a fast pace, and everyone will have no time to bother with a beginner. Only the head of the RiF club, Elena Badanova, agreed. But she, too, frightened me for a long time with stories about how people could not stand the journey, not even reaching the lake, how the rarefied atmosphere caused severe health problems for some, how sometimes there were accidents when people fell off steep slopes. What I heard was really creepy. But the cards are dealt, I can't back down.

The third issue is equipment. I had some things for a long time: thermal underwear, a fleece sweatshirt and trowel, synthetic padding pants, a membrane ski jacket, Merrell winter sneakers. But I also had to go shopping - I bought a headlamp and a supply of batteries, climbing gaiters, spare fleece gloves, and various small items. I also purchased a 150-liter “Relief” backpack. Of course, it is a long way from Nova tour products, but it is almost three times cheaper. At the same time, it fit everything: a sleeping bag, a tent, a change of clothes, a personal supply of food, etc. I also brought dark glasses so that the light reflected by the snow wouldn’t burn my eyes.

Road to hell

We left on April 30 at about 11 p.m., plunging into the hired mikrik. Morning, the border of the Okinsky district, the path is blocked by a barrier. The border guard, looking into the salon, collects passports and passes, and takes them to a container house. “I went to apply for loans,” someone quipped. It took about half an hour to sort out the formalities, and finally we moved on. Then a stop near the border checkpoint, then further along the highway, then a dirt road. Finally, the mikrik stops near a roadside shop with a hexagonal roof. The establishment is located a hundred meters from the bridge over the White Irkut, here is a kind of starting point. We take out the things, throwing them into a pile, now we will distribute the load. The day is sunny, as hot as summer.

Although I tried to load the backpack with only the essentials, it still turned out to be quite heavy. In addition, I had to carry a share of the total load: cereals, sugar, pasta, and I was also entrusted with a responsible mission: to carry a camp cast-iron cauldron. The damned piece of iron weighs a fair amount, and as a result, my backpack turned out to be quite heavy. This does not inspire optimism at all - I already know very well that during a long journey, every extra gram becomes a heavy weight. Somehow I put him on my back, a pair of trekking poles in my hands, I stomp the road to the bridge, there we go down to the river.

We walk at a fast pace along the rocky river bottom. The ice and snow have not yet completely melted. There are many off-road vehicles near the shores, and snowmobiles rush by from time to time. There are a lot of people, sometimes whole crowds, some are going up the canyon, some are walking towards them. In places where the coast is covered with forest, there are entire tent cities.

Remembering the instructions of one Krasnoyarsk traveler, after every sufficiently long segment of the journey I eat a piece or two of chocolate, a bar of which I prudently hid in my belt pouch. All the same, a heavy backpack significantly reduces your strength. It’s good that we still make short stops occasionally. The incline becomes higher the further you go.

Every now and then you have to jump over streams of water flowing over ice or rocks. I did get my feet wet, several times, but I gave up on it, letting my shoes dry as I went. From the slopes on the sides every now and then stones fall with noise.

We reached the place where the canyon branches in two, we turn into the left turn. The slope goes sharply upward, now instead of a flat bottom there are stepped rocky rapids covered with ice. Walking along it, especially with a load, is very inconvenient. Having stopped, I put on the crampons provided by Lena on my feet. I am used to them, they are like family to me - I crossed Baikal twice in them. Now walking on the ice has become easier.

Be careful, stones fall every now and then,” those returning from above warn us.

In addition to fatigue, during a long but intense trek the main scourge is thirst. Water losses are enormous, the body requires compensation. A couple of bottles of mineral water have long been exhausted. During the next stop, I threw off my backpack, scooped it straight from the stream murmuring among the ice and drank ice-cold water. I was tired as hell, my backpack was pressing on my shoulders, but I still had to go on and on. But I take all these difficulties calmly, because I expect the worst to come, when the ascent itself takes place.

Finally, I reached the designated point in the upper reaches of the river. The main part of the group had long been located in the “clearing” - a vast, gently sloping area covered with forest along the right bank of the canyon. Having gone upstairs, I throw my backpack off the larch tree and spread out the rug, falling onto it with pleasure. However, everyone else is also resting.

After a long rest, we begin to set up camp. We pitch our tents, collect wood for the fire, and dry our wet shoes. After dinner, instructions are given, and beginners are given equipment - safety systems, ice axes, helmets.

We get up at five in the morning, we’ll go out early to try to get ahead of everyone and not get caught in the traffic jam there,” says Lena. “By morning everyone should be ready, so all that’s left is to put on the backpack.”

Rising to Madness

Climb! - is heard outside the walls of the tent. But I actually already managed to wake up, I deliberately went to bed early, so that at the same time I could restore my strength. It's already dawn outside.

We set off, it was still twilight over the mountain tops. We march along a winding path stretching along the gorge along the river, the water roars, hitting the boulders. The ground under your feet is replaced either by stones or melted snow, or you have to walk straight on loose ice, under which a water stream roars. The slope is constantly increasing, it’s hard to walk uphill, although now the backpack weighs nothing compared to yesterday. I try to walk quickly so as not to fall behind the others, but I’m still trailing behind, while the main team has gone far ahead. Fortunately, Lena prudently ordered the RiF athletes to keep an eye on the newcomers.

At some point, the narrow gorge widens greatly, forming a vast depression. On the sides there are huge ridges rising into the sky. But Munku-Sardyk himself is not yet visible, he still has a long way to go. You need to climb the left slope, where a chain of figures with backpacks is already moving.

Is that a lake there? - I ask.

It’s still a long way off, says young RiFa climber Alexander. “We’ll have to climb even higher, then again, only then will it be there.”

At the top there is a vast valley among the snowy mountain slopes; we take a short break. I sit down on a stone so that it takes the weight of the backpack, and throw several pieces of chocolate into my mouth. Meanwhile, the others move on, and I, overcoming fatigue, follow them. We cross the valley, climb again on the left side, go around a huge rock, behind which a narrow gorge leads up, and a pile of stones forms something like a staircase. At the top there is again a flat space, in the middle of which is the same lake - the conditional middle of the path, at which it becomes clear whether a person can go further. Well, I still have strength. There are tents on the shore: someone decided to position themselves closer to the treasured peak.

Quickly crossing the frozen pond, we take pictures on the other side. Behind the lake there is a slope covered with rocks, gradually rising, and then sharply going up. Climbing it is simply torture. At the same time, heavy snow began to fall, and because of it, visibility became simply disgusting. I mentally measure the distance along the blackening stones in the snow. “Getting to this one, now to the next one, there, and it seems like it’s not far to the end of the climb.” Alexander and Purbo run briskly next to me, not showing the slightest sign of fatigue, and even taking part of my load. You can’t help but be surprised at their endurance, especially when you feel like you’re barely alive. Trying to put yourself into a trance, as during the Baikal crossings, does not help; you have to do everything with all your might.

With the last of my strength I climbed up this shoot. At the top there is a small flat patch. Tormented by thirst, I look for an untrodden place, scoop up the snow with my palm, and, squeezing it into a dense lump, I greedily bite into it.

Don’t touch the main “yellow” thing - laughs Purbo - The first rule of a climber: don’t eat “yellow snow”.

Behind the patch a new steep slope begins, covered with snow. I’m already crawling up like a zombie, overpowering myself. The snow underfoot is already deep, and Alexander gives the go-ahead to put on the crampons.

It’s already getting cold, I take my jacket out of my backpack. In general, the weather is still fine, they say there is a strong wind, and then the frost here is over thirty.

I want to sit still and relax, but I can’t, I have to hurry. Overpowering myself, I try to take it anyway, at least one or two extra steps up. The sky is covered with a gray veil of snowfall - the edge of the slope is no longer visible. By the way, the climbing gaiters turned out to be just a miracle - not a crumb of snow got into my boots.

Storm the sky

Exhausted like a dog, I finally climb to the top of the climb. A small snow-covered area, crowded with many people, appears again. This is the so-called “Pillow” - the place from where the ascent directly to the top already occurs.

I put on my harness, “reef man.” Chimit helps me tighten it correctly, secure the carabiner and the “mustache” - the safety rope. We, three newbies in the group, were ordered to be secured with a rope for insurance in case someone stumbled. I leave my backpack and trekking poles here and take an ice ax. They showed me ahead of time how to lean on it when climbing, and how to properly cling to it if you suddenly slip. Lena decided to change the route a little for us, and we did not go left along the main path, but straight, in order to climb the ridge extending from the peak and along it to get closer to the top.

New breakthrough. Again I was practically crawling up the steep snow-covered slope. It goes somewhere high up, the edge is not visible. I have almost no strength, I just want to lie down and not move.

Go ahead, don't stop! - Lena screams from the slope high above. Overcoming fatigue, I try to move higher at least two steps, time after time. Sometimes, when after a short stop my strength increases a little, I go up a meter or two for a jerk. The deep snow under my feet crumbles every now and then and I, losing my balance, fall. Two or three seconds of respite, but you have to climb higher.

Here we are on the ridge, and I sit down directly on the snow again with relief. On the reverse side there is a colorful panorama of a snow-capped mountain range.

Can you go? - Lena asks. The question is very important - in unaccustomed people, after such a rise, hidden ailments often worsen and internal organs fail.

Can! - I answer. Although the load is almost maximum, I still feel the strength to move on.

There's not much left, do you see that rock? - says Alexander. The cliff sticking out in the sky seems really close, but estimating that it’s actually still quite a long way to climb up to it, optimism diminishes.

We carefully move along the narrow path, skirting cliffs sticking out in the snow. The slopes are very steep, the slope is probably seventy degrees; if you fall, there is a risk of rolling down and eventually crashing. The pace is no longer too high, there are much more opportunities to rest a little.

Be careful not to push the stones down, Lena warns. A warning is in order - there are a lot of people below, a stone rolling from such a height along such a slope will inevitably injure or kill the one it hits.

Before we had time to reach the middle of the ridge, a thick fog suddenly descended on the mountains, completely obscuring visibility. Below everything is as if in milk, nothing is visible, only at a distance to the left you can discern a line of tourists climbing up the main path.

Stone! - from time to time a shout is heard when a small pebble rolls down the slope.

This stone is “living”, don’t cling to it, warns Alexander, walking along the cracked rock.

There are only the last meters left to the top, and the realization of this gives a surge of strength. I climb up the protruding rocks.

It’s already quite a bit - the “reef people”, who themselves have long since jumped up the stones, are encouraging me.

And so, the last push, and I’m at the top. That's it, I got there, the goal has been achieved. Wearily I sit down on a snow-covered stone, listening to congratulations from those accompanying me.

The top of Munku-Sardyk, as they said, turned out to be a rather cramped spot. Over there stands a worship cross, which, as I was told, was once dragged here by Chimit Tarmaev. Next to the cross is a pillar tied with “hii-morins”. There are a whole bunch of the same people around, it’s very crowded. I am surprised to meet friends who are in other groups. I look around: the damned fog has buried the hope of admiring the surrounding panorama from above. And it’s strange to realize that the territory of Mongolia already begins from this mountainside.

After sitting for a while and catching my breath, I remember about the flags that I promised myself to bring up at any cost. I take them out, my comrades willingly help stretch them so that I can take a photo. That's it, the mission is completely completed.

Return

Then there was a descent. On the one hand, it is easier - almost no effort is wasted, on the other hand, it is technically more difficult. I descended from the top, jumping down from rock to rock and holding on to the rope for insurance. Then we walked along the ridge again, fastened with a safety "mustache", then there was a descent along the snowy slopes - here you have to walk face forward, stepping with your heels. The descent is certainly not an ascent - the distance was covered much faster. I walked back without much haste, at a pace that was comfortable for me. Everything around is in a shroud of fog; after a few meters only dim silhouettes are visible.

Having arrived at the camp and spent the night in a damp, frosty tent, in the morning I packed my things and moved down the canyon, where I was supposed to meet a climber from another group who was supposed to go to Ulan-Ude. This is how my ascent to Munku-Sardyk went.

This article will be of interest to beginners and hiking enthusiasts. If your physical shape is average, but you love hiking; If the romance of the mountains is close to you, but you think about your safety, you are on the same path with us.

Munku-Sardyk- eternal white char, the highest point of the Eastern Sayan Mountains in Buryatia, on the borders of Russia and Mongolia. Its height is 3491 meters.

Our hike involves moderate physical activity. We will not climb the Munku-Sardyk peak itself - this will require an ice axe, crampons, a helmet, and some other specific equipment. But that doesn’t make our trip any less interesting. We will see frozen waterfalls, snowy peaks shining in the sun, bizarre rocks flowing with water, alpine meadows with rare plants.

The peculiarity is that this route is accessible to beginners, people of average physical fitness, and children.

The unique, protected route is open only for a short two weeks from May 1-14. At other times, the river freezes and the route becomes accessible only to climbers. It’s too cold in winter (-40). In May, the conditions are ideal for a stay for 3-4 days: temperatures -5, -10 during the day and -15 at night.

This makes the nature of Munku-Sardyk purest, untouched.

Along the frozen river, as if on the road, tourists climb Mount Munku, as well as to some other destinations: the lake, the “Circus” and the Holy Place of the Buryats.
At this time, more than 1000 people annually visit these amazingly beautiful places.

Approximate equipment for a hike to Munku-Sardyk:

1. Mountaineering (trekking) boots for climbing – pair
2. Bivouac shoes - pair
4. Thin socks - more, taking into account the length of stay (a pair of dry socks is never superfluous)
5. Woolen socks - more, taking into account the length of stay
6. Thermal underwear – set, replaceable
7. Fleece pants – 1 pc.
8. Waterproof and windproof pants – 1 pc.
9. Fleece sweatshirt – you can have two pairs, thin and thick
10. Waterproof and windproof jacket with a hood – 1 pc.
11. Down jacket with a hood – 1 pc.
12. Fleece (woolen) gloves – at least 2 pairs
13. Windproof mittens (gaiters) – pair
14. Fleece hat (wool) – 2 pcs.
15. Balaclava (face mask) – if available, optional
16. Bandana (panama hat) – if available, optional
17. Thermal underwear (gaiters) – a pair.
18. Travel telescopic sticks (folding) - pair
19. Sunglasses – pair
20. Sunscreen
21. Headlamp – 1 pc. with spare batteries
22. Personal hygiene items - at your discretion
23. KLMN (mug-spoon-bowl-knife) – you can use chopsticks, of course
24. Tourist backpack 80 liters or more – 1 pc.
25. Assault backpack – if available, optional
26. Tourist mat – 1 piece, preferably 2
27. Popper (foam rubber seat mat) – 1 pc., optional
28. Sleeping bag for -10, -15
29. Tent.

The travel plan is as follows:

From Irkutsk we travel 5 hours on a special tourist bus to the border with Mongolia. For bus passengers, passports are issued with permission to stay on neutral territory between Russia and Mongolia, where the route lies. Round trip transfer 1500 RUR. per person.

We are passing Baikal. We stop in Buryatia to eat national food - poses.

Then from May 1-5 we live in the mountains. We put up tents, cook food over a fire or gas burner, and walk a lot. Many people take snowboards with them and ride.

We are going to Lake Echoy (2000 m). On the second day we go to the Circus. On the third day we go to the holy place of the Buryats - to a rock with through openings.
Departure on May 5th. All these days, I, your guide, and my husband, an experienced traveler, will be with you.

On the way back, if desired, I recommend stopping in the Zhemchug (Vyshka) area in Buryatia. There are hot springs with a temperature of +54, and there are places for swimming. This methane-containing water has a powerful strengthening effect on the body.

Another place that deserves attention in this article is the Arshan balneological resort. Arshan is called in Buryatia