Rock climbing and mountaineering. Departure to Crimea: rock mountaineering (continuing group) Rock climbing in Crimea

– ascent and development of rocky or mountainous peaks. This is a dangerous and exciting sport, fraught with many dangers, but also giving a lot of emotions and adrenaline. Just look at the list of films about climbing to the tops of mountains, in each of which there is a situation close to disaster, it becomes clear that mountaineering is not so easy to do seriously.

This type of activity puts forward a number of requirements for a person:

Physical strength is required;
climbing experience;
good health;
availability of necessary equipment.

And this is just the beginning of the necessary qualities and skills for mountaineering. But adherents of this sport and active rest they know that the sensations of conquering a seemingly inaccessible peak are worth it.

Crimea is a dream for climbers, since on its territory there are many mountain ranges and rocky formations, as if by the hand of the Creator, scattered across the peninsula. From this variety you can choose a peak of any difficulty for climbers with or without experience. It is Crimea that is considered the cradle of mountaineering, and tourists who prefer domestic active recreation in the mountains to foreign ones choose Crimea.

On the territory of Crimea there are climbing training centers with equipped walls and climbing walls. There are many mountaineering schools, for example AlpSchool U Terra. Various championships and competitions in the field of mountaineering are held on the peninsula on an ongoing basis.

The Crimean Mountains make it possible to carry out different types routes - mountain climbing, rock, multi-pitch (in such routes several ropes are used, and the ascent occurs in a group in a bundle).

Climbing also has its own classification. Training climbing is most suitable for beginners, mass climbing is most suitable for a group of tourists, climbing for active recreation differs from sports climbing, which aims to obtain a rank, as well as set new records.

A special feature of Crimea is the low altitude of the mountains on a global scale. It was on the peninsula that the concept of small mountains originated, documented and embodied in a separate sport. The Crimean mountains are convenient for both beginners in mountaineering and for training experienced professionals.

Weather conditions allow mountaineering on the peninsula almost all year round. Rare rainfall also makes it easier to climb dry mountains. The Crimean mountain routes reach up to six hundred meters in length. In terms of difficulty category, the Crimean Mountains offer a wide range of routes, from the smallest to the dangerous and difficult sixth category. The difficulty is determined by the height of the mountain, the steepness of its surface, the structure of the relief and surface (snow-ice, rock or combined), and the effort required to climb.

The most famous and popular for climbing are Mount Sokol, Mount Cat, Bird Mountain, Alupka Wall Sokol, Eagle flight, Paragilmen and a number of others.

Even on one mountain there can be several routes, so after conquering a mountain peak, the climber has the opportunity to do it again using a different route, for example a parabola or a two-way route.

Mount Falcon

Mount Sokol in Sudak is the most popular among climbers. It has a height of 474 meters. It combines routes of varying difficulty and is suitable for both climbing experts and beginners. Difficulty categories for Falcon Mountain routes range from one to six. Those who conquer the peaks of Mount Sokol will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the abyss stretching at the foot and the mirror-like surface of the sea, which opens up as if in the palm of your hand.

The relief of the mountain is unusual; it used to be a coral reef, so you can even see fossils in the form of sea shells on its surface. In this regard, the mountain is included in the territory of the reserve, which is why overnight stays and making fires are prohibited on its slopes.

Kush-Kaya

Kush-Kaya or bird mountain is no less famous; its height is 627 meters. This amazing mountain, located near the Batiliman tract and Laspi Bay, is capable of influencing the microclimate of the areas lying underneath it. So in winter periods, when the Laspi pass is covered with snow, the mountain closes Batiliman from the wind, where a comfortable and warm microclimate develops, and you can even sunbathe. The difficulty of passing varies from one to five. There are many routes to climb the mountain: Dvoyka, Koltso, Bashkirov’s Route, Mitten, Egg, Gate and others. The length of the routes reaches half a kilometer.

Ai-Petri

Ai-Petri is a universal mountain for climbing, which has ensured its great popularity. It has several peaks with heights of more than a thousand meters, but the difficulty category of the routes begins with one, which gives climbers of any level of training the opportunity to climb the path to the famous peaks. The main Ai-Petri peak, despite the fact that it is the highest, allows for ascents of a whole range of difficulty categories; it is suitable for both beginners and professionals.

The western peak of the mountain can be conquered using only some moderately difficult routes. Eastern peak Suitable for experienced climbers, most of its routes are of the fifth category of difficulty. In winter, the Ai-Petri peaks are covered with snow caps that cover the mountain until spring. Climatic conditions mountain range very contrasting. Ai-Petri has the reputation of being the windiest place in the entire territory of Crimea, and the air at the peaks and at the foot has a temperature difference of up to ten degrees.

Temperature differences between seasons can be as much as 35 degrees. However, Ai-Petri attracts tourists with its ski slopes, and leading to the mountain cable car has the greatest extent in all of Europe. For climbers and speleologists, the mountain is also interesting for its bizarre rocks, as well as the presence of more than three hundred caves, where excursions are carried out in the summer.

Mount Paragilmen

Mount Paragilmen rises to a height of 857 meters between the cities of Yalta and Alushta. It seems to have been created for training beginner climbers, as it has many routes of low complexity. The greatest difficulty is four. Paragilmen consists of several massifs, their structure is heterogeneous, there are both monolithic areas and dilapidated ones with overgrown trees and ivy. The routes are up to 250 meters long. A large number of mountaineering competitions were held on the mountain, including the first competitions in the USSR.

Morcheka

Morcheka, which reaches a height of 986 meters, is very difficult and not suitable for beginners. The difficulty category of routes for climbing it starts from three and is represented mainly by categories five and six. The mountain offers many famous routes. Morcheka is unique for its monolithic structure and steep, almost vertical descent. It is compared to a cut piece of butter, and only a few dare to climb. It has long been believed that only a select few can climb Morcheka, which makes it even more attractive for professionals to conquer its peaks.

Foros edging

In the southwest of Crimea rises the Forossky Kant mountain range, up to 660 meters high. There is a place for climbers of any level to roam, as the mountain offers routes great amount. The difficulty of the routes varies from two to five. The routes are prepared, and a long line of climbers and many years of climbing have simplified the ascent and practically removed the stones that could move and interfere with the ascent.

Mountaineering is somewhat different from rock climbing, which stems from it but has become a separate sport. Conquering rocky peaks is somewhat easier, since the altitude above sea level is much lower. This means that the difference in elevation is less than in mountaineering. This offers a number of benefits to climbers. Firstly, in such conditions there is less risk of oxygen starvation than at mountain altitudes. Secondly, the temperature difference, therefore, is also not so significant, so you don’t need to take a lot of warm clothes with you.

Numerous rocky sites in Crimea are suitable for rock climbing. Rocky ridges lie in the eastern part of the peninsula, south coast at Black Sea coast, in the southwestern part, as well as the central region.

Speleotourism

Speleotourism is separate from mountaineering and rock climbing. This is a stunning and exciting activity that involves going inside caves. The Crimean peninsula provides speleologists with ample opportunities. Most of the caves on its territory are suitable for descent. Here are just a few of them: Red Caves, Emine-boir-khosar, Three-Eyes, Marble. And some of the Crimean caves rest under the depths of the waters; their passage requires scuba gear; this area of speleotourism borders on diving.

Be that as it may, conquering mountain ranges brings a lot of indescribable emotions and incomparable feelings, but in return it requires extreme care and good preparation. It makes no sense to start this most interesting, but dangerous activity without special conjugation and a set of necessary things. You also need to notify the search and rescue service about the start of climbing the mountain. Mountain peaks or descent into the Crimean caves. But it is equally important to calculate your strength and choose the route and number of participants that correspond to the level of preparedness. Then both the top of the mountain and the alluring bottom of the cave will happily submit to the brave thrill-seeker.

Rock climbing and mountaineering in Crimea is an excellent chance to diversify your leisure time with extreme entertainment. When you come here on vacation, you shouldn’t limit yourself to a monotonous pastime on the beaches, even beautiful ones. Nature has created unique conditions on the peninsula for active pastime. For experienced rock climbers and mountaineers, and beginners, this is simply paradise. Prices for instructor services in 2020 will be presented at the bottom of the article, where you can choose a suitable vacation and order it.

Rock climbing in Crimea: where to go

You can go rock climbing in Crimea almost everywhere - a ridge runs along the peninsula, and on the coast there are steep rocky areas every now and then. There are specialized centers where you can easily rent equipment or learn the basics of a difficult art at any of the popular resorts.

Among the many natural recreational activities for rock climbing that nature has endowed Crimea with, some of the most popular include:

. An amazing place just a few kilometers from. The air here is crystal clear and the nature is pristine. Routes of five difficulty levels are designed for both beginners and professionals.
Salachik Gorge. Found in the surrounding area, it is replete with both gentle rocky sections where amateurs train, and almost vertical stone walls where experienced athletes polish their skills.
Canyon. The massif here is cut by many gorges, where tourists are offered to test themselves on hiking paths with a variety of features.
Central Crimea opens up stunning prospects. The estuary, Demerdzhi massif, Zmeinaya Balka, Watchtower Cliff, and Kizil-Koba are considered ideal for this type of active recreation.
The most difficult areas are famous for the mountains Sokol, the Red Stone rocks, Alupkinskaya, Krestovaya. The famous cliff is conquered only by the best connoisseurs with refined technique.

The cost of climbing tours in Crimea depends on their duration, complexity, individual or group nature and can vary from 400 to 9,000 rubles per hour.

Crimea: the best places for mountaineering

Crimea is considered an almost wonderful place for training beginners and preparing for difficult climbs of professionals. The Crimean mountain peaks are not distinguished by their impressive height, but they attract with an abundance of routes of varying difficulty levels, through which you can learn the basics of conquering peaks or hone your skills.

Tourists planning to go mountaineering in Crimea for the first time will have plenty to choose from.
In several corners of Taurida there are hills suitable for this:

Simeiz. Limestone (254.4 m) with steep spurs on the sea side.
Laspi. (664 m), towering over a picturesque bay.
Alushta. Hangar-Burun (1453 m) with a southern slope suitable for mountaineering.
Foros. Uarch-Kaya (688 m). There is also a famous one with super difficult sections.

Yes, these are just a few places where you can go mountaineering in Crimea. Specialized centers will offer you many more interesting options. One of the most popular schools for teaching mountaineering and rock climbing is AlpIndustry. The cost of the initial course here is 9,400 rubles. Some tour operators offer individual ascents to specific peaks. The passage can last from 2 to 7 hours and cost from 3,500 to 12,500 rubles.

Rock climbing in Crimea is especially attractive for its democracy, because healthy men, women, children, and people of advanced age can enjoy it. It is carried out with insurance, classes are conducted under the guidance of an experienced instructor, who will introduce you to the basics of technology and teach you how to handle equipment. A few tips from experienced conquerors will not be superfluous:

Contraindications to rock climbing are diseases of the musculoskeletal system and joints, bronchial asthma, high blood pressure, and fear of heights. People under the influence of drugs or alcohol are also not allowed.

As for mountaineering, you need to remember that mountains do not tolerate fuss and require great respect. Therefore, it is initially necessary to complete a preparatory course lasting 3-4 days. During this time, you will have to learn the basics of rock climbing and rappelling, learn how to handle equipment, and study safety requirements. Test lifts with various types insurance will help you learn to trust the instructor, rope, harness, carabiners. The advice to future mountain climbers is similar to what we gave to rock climbers.

Quite often it happens that after several climbing or mountaineering sessions a person realizes that he can no longer live without these sensations. But even if you don’t become a professional, the impressions gained from conquering mountain Crimea, will be remembered for a very long time. Don't even doubt it! In the meantime, watch the video about the conquest of the Foros Kant, enjoy watching!

Of course, real mountaineering, the goal of which is to conquer inaccessible, icy and snow-covered peaks, cannot exist in Crimea. And there are no inaccessible peaks here, and the climate is not conducive eternal ice and significant snow cover. But Crimea is ideally suited for rock climbing. Every tourist, whether he is an amateur or a professional, has a chance to overcome the harsh and, at first glance, absolutely inaccessible rocks. There are more than enough opportunities here for learning this difficult task and for improving it.

The most suitable time for exploring the Crimean rocks is from April to mid-June and from September to the first half of November. Popular climbing routes pass along the Main Range of the Crimean Mountains. On the southern coast of Crimea, a spur of this ridge, starting from Cape Aya, descends steeply to the sea. There are many steep cliffs here, the extreme walk to the top of which is extremely tempting for many climbers.

Particularly popular among those who like to climb the steep stone walls of the Paragelmen rock, Krestovaya, Krasny Kamen, Alupkinskaya, Kastropolskaya and Forosskaya walls. Near Yalta, there is the cliff of Mount Stavri-Kaya, famous among rock climbers all over the world, accessible only to professional climbers. The height of this grandiose, seemingly insurmountable rock is almost ninety meters. Climbing to the very top of such a giant is not at all easy. This process requires remarkable skill and constant training. Near Sevastopol rises the rocky Marchek Mountain, which is also not easy to conquer. But not far from Simferopol there are the Petrovsky Rocks, the peaks of which can be attempted to be subjugated by those who have recently joined this difficult task.

There is a universal rocky area on the southern coast of Crimea, intended for both professionals and amateurs - a climbing wall near Yalta, Nikitskaya Crevice. The climbing wall is equipped to the highest international standards. World famous athletes often come here.

Many climbers rush to one of the most inaccessible rock climbing sites in Crimea - Mount Sokol, located not far from Sudak. The good thing about the routes on this mountain is that the sun hits them in full force only in the afternoon, and excessive heat does not hinder the ascent for a long time. But in the rain, trying to overcome rocky routes is very dangerous: water can wash away the stones, thus causing a rockfall. The plateau at the top of the mountain is exceptionally picturesque, and walking along it after the climb is a great pleasure.

Several routes of medium difficulty pass along the Kastropol wall, located between the Marchek and Merdven-Kaya mountains, and along the western and central walls of the Ai-Petri massif, along the Angarsk wall of Chatyr-Dag. During the season, these areas are besieged by climbers, who arrive here either alone or in groups.

IN Central Crimea Fans of mountaineering and mountain recreation are attracted by the gorges of the Kizil-Koba mountain range, the rocks located in the Zmeinaya Balka tract, the rocks of the Demerdzhi and Syuyuryu-Kaya mountains, and the Watchman cliff, located opposite the Syuyuryu-Kaya at the mouth of the Grand Canyon. Climbing the overhanging wall of this cliff takes about five hours.

An excellent training ground for rock climbers has been created in the Bakhchisaray Salachik gorge. The training ground has about one hundred and twenty routes, designed for athletes of any level. Included in these routes are relatively safe, almost flat rock formations for beginners, and overhanging rocks with almost smooth walls, accessible only to experts.

Every year in Crimea, mainly on its southern coast, sport climbing competitions are held. Thousands of fans of this sport, who come here both from the CIS countries and from far abroad, participate in them. An incredible number of spectators gather for these extreme competitions, staying both at camp sites and in tent cities. They are attracted to this area by both the thirst for unusual sights and the desire to experience an extraordinary emotional uplift.

In total, there are several dozen climbing walls of varying difficulty in Crimea. Rock climbing is becoming more and more popular, winning both the hearts and minds of its fans. There will always be restless people who are ready to give up the benefits of civilization at least for a while and go to the mountains to test themselves and explore unexplored corners of nature. Their name is tourists. Any trip, one way or another, is associated with some risk. Sports tourism implies risk, but any hike, one way or another, is associated with some risk. Rock climbing is not for the faint of heart. This activity is for those who have strong body, unbending will and amazing composure. In a word, rock climbing is a sport of leaders. Those who, having once overcome fear and uncertainty, will never allow them to triumph over themselves.

The term “Small Mountains” was introduced by the outstanding climber of the USSR and Russia, ZMS, ZT of the USSR V.M. Abalakov in the article “Great Opportunities of Small Mountains”, published in the collection “Defeated Peaks”. The “Small Mountains” include rocky mountains and peaks up to 3000 m high: most Western and Eastern Sayan Mountains, Crimea, numerous mountains of Siberia and the Far East. The world also has many rocky mountains of not great absolute height with similar climbing conditions: the fjords of Norway, the Tatras, the Carpathians (Romania), most of the Pyrenees (Spain), the mountains of California (USA), etc.

Climbing in such mountains differs significantly from classical mountaineering to peaks above 3000 m. On routes of the same difficulty category in the Big Mountains and, for example, in the Crimea, the complexity of rocky sections differs significantly. So, on a typical Caucasian 2B, the difficulty of the rocks is no higher than III class, and on the former 1B (now 2B) “Telezhenko-Levy” on Forkanta - the key is Fr 5c+. Most of the year in Crimea, the routes are dry rock, allowing you to move around in climbing shoes.

Mountaineering in Crimea occupies a borderline position between classical mountaineering and classical (non-sports) rock climbing. Automatic transfer of the existing mountain climbing system, based on the Rules for conducting alpine activities, training programs for mountaineers, instructor training programs, etc., to Crimea leads to dangerous consequences. For example:

1. The AM rules provide

(clause 3.3.) Maximum number of educational and training departments:
for ascents to 1B - 10 people if all participants are over 18 years old (in other cases - 6 people);

Using the example of the route “Surprise” 1B class. to the top of Merdvenkaya in Crimea (the length of the route is 5 pitches, an easy descent to the start in 10-15 minutes), you can see that with ten participants and an instructor, moving in groups of two, the first participants manage to descend to the starting point before work begins last link. In this case, the instructor loses control over the participants’ actions on difficult rocky terrain (certain sections up to grade 5a). As a result, most instructors mark the route with railings along which the group climbs to the top, which minimizes the educational effect of such an ascent.

(clause 4.2.2.) To make the first ascents of the 3A-5A difficulty category, the participant in the alpine event must undergo the appropriate educational and training cycle of classes according to the “Climber Training Program...” and have experience in climbing a route of the previous semi-category of difficulty.

A sports group (second-class) with experience in climbing 3B in Bezengi or Alaarch comes to Crimea and graduates to climb 4A class. to the top of Merdvenkaya along the “Carnival” route. They have fulfilled all the requirements of the curriculum and the Rules. But their rock training is not higher than 4 class, and on routes 4A class. in Crimea, sections climbed “with your own insurance”, difficulty Fr 6a-6b, which makes such an ascent dangerous.

The reverse side of this paragraph of the Rules: having completed rock ascents of grades 4A and 4B in Crimea. the participant acquires the right to access route 5A class, incl. ice-snow, or high-altitude.

2. The training program for the training of climbers provides for a requirement for the level of preparation for ascents of 2A-2B grades to move confidently and reliably on rocky terrain of 1 - 2 categories of difficulty in groups and first in a group in certain sections of the 3rd category of difficulty;

In Crimea, on routes of this category, where the difficulty of sections is up to 5c (fr), with this level of climbing, participants cannot overcome the route (the training program at the NP stage does not provide for climbing of such difficulty).

Compliance with the standards of the second sports category, after which participants can walk independently, requires preparation at a significantly lower level of difficulty of sections on routes of the fourth category in Crimea (6a-6b):

confidently and clearly work together on rocky terrain of the 3rd category of difficulty;
be the first to overcome individual sections of rocky terrain of category 4 difficulty;

3. The Regulations on mountaineering instructors (which came into force on September 1, 2016) provide for:
clause 4.1. Instructor of the department of the NP stage - “Instructor-methodologist of initial training”, 2nd class. discharge.
clause 2.1. Initial training instructor-methodologist:
 level of individual technical training when moving with a bottom rope: on rocky terrain not lower than 5a (French)

Working with the department on routes 2A-2B class. in Crimea, where the difficulty of sections is up to 5c+ (fr), the participants cannot overcome the route on their own, neither can the participants (the training program at the NP stage does not provide for climbing of such difficulty). Combined with the squad's size of 6 people, this puts the group in a dangerous position.

At the same time, the Crimean Mountains have been and remain attractive to climbers, who regularly hold numerous training and sporting events here. Some of the ascents are made within the framework of classical mountaineering, and some - in mountaineering competitions in the “rock class” discipline. Based on the results of competitions of various ranks in the rock class, sports categories in mountaineering may be assigned (in accordance with the place taken, but not for completed ascents).

Rock class is an “in-person” discipline, judging is carried out at the competition site. Therefore, in order to fulfill the rank standards in classical mountaineering (one Crimean ascent is allowed to count), most organizers of alpine events formalize normative and qualifying competitions in “correspondence” disciplines: high-altitude and high-altitude-technical classes, which for small mountains (including Crimean) - does not correspond to the accepted concepts about these classes of ascents.

Most specialists in educational work in mountaineering consider it necessary to train a climber up to 1 sports category inclusive as a generalist working in all forms mountainous terrain, without specialization. Therefore, it is impossible to exclude the Small Mountains from the peaks accepted for classification.

The way out of this situation is to create new (or adjust old) FAR documents for the Small Mountains, regulating climbing in the Small Mountains and eliminating the above inconsistencies:

Rules for conducting alpine activities in the Small Mountains (or additions to the current Rules)
- training programs for training climbers in the Small Mountains class (or adjusting the current Program)
- introduction of the specialization “Mountaineering instructor-methodologist, specialization Rock class” (with the right to work in the Small Mountains).

In small mountains there are many features in the work of an instructor that differ from his work in the Big Mountains:

The instructor must have a climbing level that allows him to reliably (if necessary) lead the route. For work at the SP stage (climbing grades 3A-3B) these are 6b-6c (on sports tracks) and 6a (trade).

Having this level of climbing, the instructor must be able to bring the team members to the same level in order to be able to work as team leaders on routes. To do this, he must have the necessary knowledge, which is not in the CSH program.

On training ascents, it is especially important to choose an instructor’s place in the training department, which allows not only to have good control over the actions of all participants, but also to quickly respond to dangerous situations to eliminate them. In the Big Mountains, most of the training climbing is done while climbing on a shortened rope. In Crimea - in bundles for the entire length of the rope. A section of three ligaments stretches 150-180 m, which makes it difficult to control and direct their actions. The instructor must obtain the necessary additional knowledge in this area.

Depending on the level of training of the participants in the department, the instructor must be able to choose the most appropriate tactics for the movement of the ligaments and their interaction: autonomous movement of the ligaments (which gives the maximum educational effect), leaving them in the most dangerous places reliable belay points for subsequent ropes, leaving a large number of such points for ropes that are not moving confidently along the route, organizing top belay for individual participants or the entire group, etc. It is necessary to study various tactics and their choice depending on the preparedness of the participants in the training department.

Taking into account the characteristics of the Small Mountains and the Crimean Mountains in particular, I propose:

1. Introduce a specialization for mountaineering instructors: “Small mountains - rock class”, in which to train both new instructors (program attached) and retrain old ones (using a shortened course).

2. Mass sports categories in the Rock class will be allowed to be performed not only for places taken in competitions, but also for completed ascents in the Small Mountains (enter into the EVSC)

Brief history and analysis of mountaineering in the Lesser Mountains of Crimea

The first ascents on the walls of Crimea began in the fifties of the last century by individual climbers in preparation for ascents in the Big Mountains. They were not systematic in nature and were committed occasionally. With the advent of mountaineering and rock climbing sections in Crimea, such ascents were made more and more often. From the early sixties to the early seventies the following were walked on the walls of Ai-Petri:

5A Along the Central Wall with a traverse Zubtsov, S. Frolov - V. Goncharov (Yalta) 1961
- 3B Along the Southern Ridge, V. Brazhkin - O. Grippa (Simferopol), 1963
- 4A “Tablet”, V. Kulyamin - V. Likhachev (Yalta), 1968
- 2A Along the SW ridge, V. Goncharov (Yalta) - O. Grippa (Simferopol), 1971
- 1B Along the Eastern couloir, O.Grippa (Simferopol), 1970
- 5B “Feathers”, H. Kornys (Simferopol), 1971
and other routes to the walls of the Crimean Mountains (1968, 6A Shaankaya, Zenit, V. Pavlotos and team, Morcheka M. Kornys and V. Zasypkin 1971 and many others).

During this period, ascents were made mainly by residents of Crimea. The style of these ascents is usually alpine, in pairs and light. The basis for preparing Crimeans for climbing was a high level of rock climbing thanks to year-round training on the rocks.

From the late sixties - early seventies, residents of other regions of the USSR began to climb in Crimea: Dnepropetrovsk, Odessa, Kyiv, Kharkov, Moscow, Leningrad, etc. For most climbers, such ascents were also of a training nature in preparation for ascents in the Big Mountains. Well-known teams passed difficult wall “fives” and “sixes” (V. Monogarov, L. Kensitsky and their teams, teams of “Burevestnik”, “Spartak”, “Vodnik”, a/k “Odessa”) to acquire similarity and special skills before climbing wall routes in the Caucasus, Pamirs, etc. The style of climbing these routes was influenced by the prevailing tactics of this period of specialization and distribution of responsibilities in the group, the group’s movement along fixed ropes hung by the leader. Preparation for ascents was carried out in sections and clubs using the USSR Mountaineering Training Program and the developments of team coaches.

With the birth, on the initiative of the state trainer of the Ukrainian SSR G.I., the Field Championship of Ukraine in the Small Mountains, a competitive incentive appeared in the development of mountaineering on the Crimean walls. The most difficult routes of those years were completed on Morchek, Triangle, Shaankai, Chelebi and other walls of the Crimea.
Initially, the classification of routes was not official; these routes were not included in the Classifier of routes to the mountain peaks of the USSR. Therefore, the pioneers in the Small Mountains, when determining the difficulty of the route, were guided by the labor intensity of the route as a whole in comparison with similar routes in the Big Mountains. With this approach (difficulty of the route = length x complexity of the sections), the complexity of the sections on the Crimean routes turned out to be higher than on similar (according to the classification) rocky routes of the Big Mountains.

Since the late sixties, in Crimean mountains There was also other, unofficial, “wild” mountaineering. Even “official” climbers - members of sections and clubs with ranks - went out on routes outside of mountaineering events, without complying with the requirements of the Mountain Climbing Rules, training programs and other directive documents of the USSR Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. The ascents did not count toward the ranks, but were done for fun, to test one’s capabilities and their limits. And they allowed, for example, a badge athlete to go through the “troika” rules that were “forbidden” to him by the Rules, or even go to the “five” level with a more experienced comrade. In a pair, quickly and beautifully, and not as a “locomotive” in a team!

Climbers appeared who climbed independently, outside the federation, and only in Crimea. Naturally, no one was involved in their preparation; knowledge and experience were acquired independently and from “senior”, more experienced comrades. Among them were outstanding climbers Yu.Lishaev (“Fantik”), S.Nadtochiy (“Terrorist”), M.Voloshanovsky (“Michel”), Ershov and others, who made many outstanding ascents. “Wild” mountaineering has developed its own system of training climbers: joint ascents in pairs with a more experienced comrade, who “taught” mountaineering with his example and advice. And what is important: such preparation often gave greater effect and faster growth.

And the injury rate among “wild” climbers turned out to be lower than in official events held by sections and clubs. The main reason for this was the psychological attitude: “My safety depends only on me!”, and as a result, increased attention and caution on the route. In “official” mountaineering, responsibility for safety lies with the instructor; participants trust him and rely completely on him, losing independence in decision-making in critical situations.

Training of climbers in the “Small Mountains” class (rock class)

When developing regulatory documents for training climbers in the “Small Mountains” class, it is necessary to take into account that:

1. The complexity of the rocks on routes of the same category in Crimea is much higher than in the Big Mountains. So on a regular rocky route 1B the maximum difficulty of rocky sections is no more than 2 grades, and on the Crimean “unit” - F5a-5b grade. Therefore, it is not permissible to train climbers in this class according to the training programs for the Big Mountains, where in the main period (in the mountains) at the NP1 stage individual technology Only five hours are devoted to moving around the rocks, and the rocks are simple (1-2 grades) and moderately difficult (3 grades).

2. The quantitative composition of the group in the Small Mountains should be less than that provided for branches in the Big Mountains. So, at the NP1 stage in the Big Mountains, a squad of 10 people (plus an instructor) is allowed, i.e. five teams of two people. Rock routes 1B c big mountains allow the instructor to control the safety and actions of a squad of 10 people, because The squad passes most of the route simultaneously on a shortened rope. On the Crimean unit, simultaneous movement of a squad is almost impossible, and with alternating belay, a squad of 10 people (5 cords) stretches by 250 -300 m, i.e. the first one is already reaching the top, and the last one has not yet started the route. It is practically impossible for the instructor to control the actions of the participants and their safety. Therefore, at the stages of NP, the composition of the department should be no more than two ligaments (4-5 people), in all other cases - no more than one ligament (2-3 people).

Taking into account all of the above, the following concept for preparing climbers for ascents in the Small Mountains is proposed:

1. The style of climbing in Crimea must correspond to that generally accepted in other low mountains Mira: Tatras, Norway, California, Dolomites, etc. These are ascents in teams - twos, preferably - free climbing. The use of railings by the community is frowned upon.

2. The basis for preparation, and then successful safe ascents in Crimea, are year-round systematic rock climbing, as an element and direction of mountaineering. For such training, it is necessary to use climbing along sports and traditional routes, moving with aid, dry tooling and other types of rock climbing.

3. The main part of the training should take place in the preparatory period. It is impossible to teach climbing high level behind short term stay in the mountains. In the main period, it is correct to limit yourself to monitoring the level of training with recommendations based on the results of monitoring the complexity of the upcoming ascents.

4. Since ascents at the SP and SS stages must be performed in pairs, the instructor does not take part in the ascent. For the first ascents of a new category of difficulty, the athlete is led by a more experienced comrade, who is in the lead on the route, is the leader, as opposed to his partner - the follower. To stimulate interest in such a training system, it is necessary to supplement the rank standards with requirements for ascents by the leader and the follower (see Appendix 1).

5. The role of the instructor in such a system is to fully, comprehensively prepare the climber for a safe ascent, check this readiness and issue a recommendation for the ascent.

M.A. Sitnik, MSMC, Instr.I cat.

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Today in Crimea there are tours for beginners and pros in climbing. This word came into our language and firmly established itself in it: climbing translated from English means rock climbing. But since our domestic athletes often perform on the international climbing stage, they are accustomed to using international terms. These same athletes organize climbing tours in Crimea. The price includes full support, equipment, and instructions. Under the guidance of such guides, the first steps on the rocks are not at all scary!

What rocks are most popular in Crimea? Almost everything, because the fantasy of an extreme sportsman knows no bounds! But there are also official routes approved at the level of the local Ministry of Tourism. A striking example is Via Ferrata, near Simferopol. This perfect place for training beginners and adjusting the skills of those who no longer consider themselves beginners.

What do you need to know when booking climbing tours?

It is known that mountains, like rocks, do not like weaklings. So make sure you really want to gain climbing skills. And also find yourself an experienced guide - in our catalog all tours are exclusively from professionals!