Dead Bay: interplanetary voyage in Koktebel. Beach in Dead Bay Accommodation and prices

Koktebel Bay, in which the urban resort village of the same name is located, has an oval shape and stretches from Cape Planerny in the west to Cape Chameleon in the east. The name of the village of Koktebel means “land of blue peaks”; in ancient times this corner of Crimea was called.

The beach strip of Koktebel Bay is wide and consists of sand and small pebbles. From Koktebel it’s a stone’s throw to the majestic extinct volcano, which reigns over the western end of the bay behind Cape Planerny.

Cape Chameleon gets its name from its phenomenal ability to change color throughout the day. Depending on the position of the Sun, the color of the cape changes from gray-blue in the morning to golden ocher in the evening, which flows into pinkish-violet pre-sunset shades of blue and lilac. The old name of the Chameleon is Toprah-Kaya, translated from Turkic as “Clay Rock”. The clay walls of Chameleon, taking on the blow of storm waves, are actively eroded by the sea.

Tikhaya (Yenisharskaya) Bay is located near Cape Chameleon. The bay is named so because even in bad weather the sea here is always calm - this is facilitated by the unique position of the bay, surrounded on all sides by hills.

Quiet is one of the most beautiful and peaceful places to relax in the Koktebel-Ordzhonikidze area.

The shores of Quiet Bay, although hilly, are gentle. On the coastal shallows there are treacherous rocks and isolated stones. From Toprah-Kaya there are underwater stone ridges with islands protruding into the sea.

One and a half kilometers east of the cape is the Kamennaya rock - two large white stones and several smaller ones. Their old name is Tash-Gemi - stone ship.

These famous stones also have the names Tash-Bashi - stone head and Tash-Tepe. - stone top. The Crimean legend about Saint Barbara, who escaped from her oppressive father on a ship, is associated with these stones. The elegant whiteness of the “Stone Ships” has a completely non-romantic origin - the stones were chosen by a large flock of cormorants. They catch fish in the water, and then sit on the rocks and digest it. The results of cormorant activity turn the stones white.

Cape Chameleon has been known to sailors since ancient times: its image is on many Italian nautical charts - portolans - of the 14th-15th centuries, its descriptions are in old Russian sailing directions. Of course, the Chameleon existed during the time of Odysseus, who sailed past... There is no data on Pushkin’s attitude towards these shores. The great Russian poet was impressed by the neighboring Kara-Dag with its.

In addition to rare plants and animals, Quiet Bay has gravel and sand beaches with small dunes, rare for the Crimea. The shores of Quiet Bay are loved and appreciated by artists and filmmakers. During the Soviet years, more than a hundred films were shot in Tikhaya, including “Scarlet Sails” and “Descended from Heaven”.

To the right of Chameleon lies Dead Bay as the eastern part of the vast Koktebel Bay. Dead - in the sense of “calm”, without sea disturbances. The waves and wind break on the long cape and are extinguished.

Local fishermen say that there is a magnetic anomaly in the bay, and the compass needle is inexorably capricious in this place. On earth everything is fine. From the height of the steep shore, the panorama of Dead Bay is impressive. There is no beach as such near the bay, only a narrow strip of rocky shore.

Located in Koktebel. From the poet’s grave on Mount Kuchuk-Yanyshar there is a beautiful view of the unforgettable Cimmerian landscapes. Without seeing them, it is impossible to understand and appreciate the beauty of Voloshin’s watercolors. Such a play of light and color tints occurs only in Cimmeria - unknown and comprehended every time anew.

The nature of Crimea is rich, but there are also places on the peninsula that, with their obvious unsuitability for normal life, evoke associations with a different world. Dead Bay in Koktebel has a corresponding name, and even managed to convincingly play the desert in the movies.

Where is Dead Bay on the map?

It is a part of the Koktebel Bay, bounded by capes Chameleon and Toprah-Kaya. It borders on two bays - (in the east) and Koktebel (in the west). Not far from here is the famous Crimean poet.

Geography and legends

The harbor is small and shallow, and algae often accumulates at the bottom. In extreme heat, they can rot - then a specific unpleasant smell of mud appears. All this is one of the reasons for its gloomy name.

The coastal strip of Dead Bay is quite wide, mostly sandy, while at Chameleon it is rocky and pebble. The coast is a bizarrely rugged hilly perimeter with minimal vegetation. Many rocks are simply bare, there are no trees, and the grass dries out in the summer. Numerous gullies and ravines are carved out by spring streams, but remain dry for most of the year. The soil is poor and unsuitable for cultivation. The terrain precludes reliable construction.

In the USA, such territories are called “badlands” - “bad land”, emphasizing the unsuitability of the area for comfortable life and human economic activity, as well as its low population and general infertility. Now, due to the fashion for everything foreign, this word has stuck to the outskirts of Mertvaya. They are inconvenient not only for people - there are rodents there, sometimes foxes run in and birds of prey fly in. That's all.

The sea in the bay also looks dead. It rarely experiences waves - this is explained by the preferential wind directions in the Koktebel area and reliable protection from them in the form of two rocky capes. Often the water is completely still. The beaches on the shore are reminiscent of the deserted areas of the Dead Sea. Thanks to this feature, they were used as scenery during the filming of “White Sun of the Desert.” The Crimean coast perfectly passed for the desert of the Caspian region.

Lair of the Sea Serpent

The name of the Dead Bay in Koktebel is also explained historically. The Tatars call her Enysheri (Enyshari). You don’t need to know Turkic languages ​​to notice that this is similar to “janissaries”.

It is known from documents that a detachment of these selected Turkish soldiers landed in a bay on the Crimean coast in 1475. Then the legend begins. Supposedly, the elite Turkish fighters, who knew no fear, encountered some kind of natural horror here - either a sea serpent or a land monster called the Chameleon. The result of the fight is “in general, everyone died.” The harbor, which became the grave of many, received a terrible name, and turned into one of its borders, frozen in stone near the coastline.

What is interesting about a holiday in Dead Bay?

You can’t count on decent ones in the Dead Bay area - the badland is not suitable for this. The surrounding area is practically deserted, and those who wish come here on foot (not far and not difficult).

Swimming is rather good - they are spacious and comfortable, and the algae are concentrated in the bottom zone; due to rare disturbances, they are almost never washed ashore. There is almost no risk of running into strong waves (even if there is significant wind in the surrounding area). Since there are few people, you can choose an area on the shore to suit your taste – sandy or pebble, where there is a lot of interesting marine life.

Nudists have long preferred holidays in Dead Bay - this is almost as “legitimate” their place as. Bathers with traditional ideas about a beach holiday usually head to the nearby Quiet Bay.
But even in Mortvoy it is not forbidden to sunbathe in a swimsuit - the main thing is not to be outraged by those who do not have one.

In addition to nudists, fans of various esoteric teachings and meditative practices flock here. They appreciate the object for its unusual “lunar” landscape and the silence of the motionless sea. Reviews from even materialistic vacationers indicate that the impression from such a landscape can be strange. There is a feeling of being not on earth, but in some other world (on another planet or in a parallel reality). It is impossible to describe what exactly is wrong with this, but the strangeness is clearly felt.

Science suggests that low-moving air above water in the heat can cause various optical effects that are truly unusual for human perception.

However, if you don’t “wind up” yourself with the supernatural, staying here can be quite pleasant. It is not suitable only for families with children and for people with poor health. There is no infrastructure nearby, you need to carry water and food with you, and there is no natural shade. There is also no good access to the shore itself; you need to get there on foot. The wildness of the area and nudists are all the real restrictions.

How to get there (get there)?

Buses do not go in the direction of Mertvaya - you can get to it either on foot or by car.

It’s easy to get to the place by car yourself in this way:

Note to tourists

• Address: Koktebel, Feodosia, Crimea, Russia.
• GPS coordinates: 44.965567, 35.288627.

But in the photo, Mertvaya Bay in Crimea looks mysterious, evoking thoughts of distant countries and interplanetary voyages. Such a photograph can be safely hung on the wall in a place of honor - guests will definitely pay attention to it. In conclusion - as always, a video clip, enjoy watching!

This summer we decided to use the bus for road trips. It was last weekend. These decided to spend it at sea. We chose Quiet Bay.
On the way we stopped at a new complex - a motel, a cafe, a hotel and a monument to chebureks, the Suvorov Oak and the White Rock, I will write a report a little later. Late in the evening we parked in Quiet Bay and slept to the sound of the surf. Morning.

In Quiet Bay, about a kilometer from the shore there are two stones. The stones Tash-Bashi and Tash-Tepe, their names are translated as Stone Head and Stone Hill, respectively. In older times, when they were much taller, they were called Tash-Gemi, which translated from Turkic means stone ship. They are in the photo. They say that some brave souls are trying to swim there...

There are legends about Quiet Bay, as well as about many beautiful places. For example, they say that an episode with a boy walking on water in the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed near the islands on the reef. This is a bit of an exaggeration)))

The second name of Quiet Bay is the Yanyshary tract. A more familiar, more popular name is Quiet Bay. The name is apt, it is less stormy here than in the neighboring Koktebel Bay, this is due to its location.

This summer there is a barrier at the entrance to the bay, but it is open. There is a decision not to let cars in, but to leave them in a separate parking lot, but so far the parking lot is not guarded, so for now everyone is violating it.

Some tents are located near silver eagles trees, some are right on the beach.
There is little trade this year, no showers, no toilets.

Just sunbathing on the beach was not part of my plans, so the following photos are a bike ride along the route Quiet Bay - Koktebel hills - Koktebel - an attempt to return to Quiet Bay

Near Quiet Bay there is a small ravine, a grove of silver elk, and, in my opinion, this is the Biyuk-Yenishar ridge, if you go to the right, then not far from the village of Ordzhonikidze

In general, the Quiet Bay landscape park includes the Yanyshar Mountains - the Kuchuk-Yanyshar and Biyuk-Yanyshar ridges, Dzhan-Khutoran; the spurs of the Tepe-Oba ridge and the nameless mountain near the village of Yuzhnoye, as well as the Yanysharskaya and Dvuyakornaya valleys separating them between the villages of Yuzhnoye and Ordzhonikidze. At sea, the landscape park covers the Mertvaya, Tikhaya and Provato bays.

During the Soviet era, the bay was officially closed, there were military people there, and also “our own people”. Today it is the Quiet Bay landscape park with a total area of ​​1,508 hectares.

It’s already the beginning of July, but the grass hasn’t burned out yet, it’s beautiful all around

There on the horizon, far away, you can see Ordzhonikidze’s houses. Ordzhonikidze is located on the picturesque Cape Kiik-Atlama, there are many small secluded coves, I recommend it for a secluded holiday

View of Cape Chameleon. On the left is Quiet Bay, on the right is Koktebel Bay. Here I am located in the area of ​​the chameleon’s “tail”))) And from the side it looks like such a long lizard drinking water from the Black Sea.

The cape, like a real chameleon, often changes its color. Someday I’ll make a selection of photos at sunset, when literally every ten minutes it turned from red to blue, purple, gold and many more shades

Another name is Toprah-kaya, which means “Clay Rock”.

Previously, the cape was much wider, and literally in June 2016 another collapse was captured on Chameleon, the video is on YouTube. But this doesn’t stop the brave souls who risk their lives to take beautiful photos. And now I see a s-small dot at the top - this is someone walking along the Chameleon ridge

And also the Chameleon closer, with a telephoto lens.
I only reached the first group of people, it’s scary to go further... Or maybe even dangerous

Koktebel Bay, the village of Koktebel illuminated by the sun's rays by the sea, and Kara-Dag hanging over it.

Kara-Dag is translated into Russian as Black Mountain.
And there used to be a volcano here, long ago, 150 million years ago

The road to Quiet Bay is busy. It seems that last year there were also minibuses here, but I don’t know if there are minibuses this year.

Not all tourists travel by car or, like me, by bicycle; many go from Koktebel to Quiet Bay on foot

And closer Chameleon

In the distance is Kara-Dag, the "Devil's Finger" stands out

The path from Quiet Bay to Koktebel goes along the sea, and the Chameleon has already changed its color a little

It’s still sunny here, but clouds are gathering over the village. How can one not recall the numerous Kara-Dag legends about the monster))))

I went down to the village, since it is difficult to park a car here, the beach is quite empty, there are few tents, few nudists

There is a village ahead. This year a Ferris wheel was installed. It doesn't work yet.

Steps, graffiti, tents - this is how the village begins)))

Fences...

We stayed at the Tom Creative Writers Hotel in winter, booked through Booking, we really liked it, and had a delicious breakfast. So I went to them for lunch. Art cafe. Prices in a cafe in Koktebel: 100 rubles for coffee, 180 rubles for borscht, 200 grams of red mullet - 380 rubles. Everything is delicious except the fish. Maybe it’s rarely ordered and that’s why it’s frozen; after defrosting, the taste changes...

The cafe is located in a park area not far from Voloshin’s house.
The house of Voloshin - the person with whom Koktebel is connected, its development, its image, its present day. Well, my bike is parked near the flower bed

Monument to Maximilian Voloshin and modern sculpture, which local wits call “Voloshin’s eggs”

Unfortunately, I didn’t meet any street musicians in the village. It's a pity. Koktebel is changing((

On the embankment there is a relatively new entertainment for Crimea - flights over the sea on... I don’t remember the name of this thing, but it’s interesting, I’ll have to try it

This is the beach near Junge Hill, the founders of the village. For some reason it is completely deserted. One of the most famous nudist beaches. Maybe the nudists are there, hiding behind the hill? But last year, in 2015, it was crowded

The road back to Quiet Bay. There are a lot of capers blooming around, it’s great that not all the buds have been picked for pickling yet.

And then it started to rain(((The road became wet, the mud began to stick to the tread of the wheels, getting clogged between the rim and the brakes... During and after the rain, Quiet Bay is inaccessible on a bicycle... Not only is it impossible to ride a bicycle, but it’s also unrealistic to roll. Just carry it in your hands.

That's it, the photo walk from Quiet Bay is over, a more complete version - video

One and a half kilometers from the eastern outskirts of Koktebel is Dead Bay. A beautiful place with clear water and a narrow strip of wild beach. Getting here is not easy, and to get to the beach you have to go down a steep ravine. Due to its inaccessibility and sparse population, Dead Bay is loved by nudists.

1. From the west, Dead Bay is limited by Cape Chameleon. And right after Chameleon the more popular and crowded one begins.

2. View of Dead Bay and the village of Koktebel from the cape.

3. The beach here is sand and pebbles, there are a lot of large stones and algae at the bottom.

4. At the foot of Chameleon there is also a beach strip, but it is very narrow and with clay. This place is not at all safe, since from time to time large pieces break off from the Chameleon and slide into the sea. The Chameleon Ridge is becoming thinner and thinner, but this does not stop extreme sports enthusiasts from walking along the narrow path on the windswept top of the cape.

All the top pictures were taken in May, there is still some greenery there. And already in August (when the photographs below were taken), the grass and bushes burn out and the landscapes around Dead Bay are quite lifeless, and this is one of the reasons why the bay received such a name. And the second reason is that the water in this bay is always calm, even with a strong storm wind. When the waves crash onto the shore in the neighboring Koktebel Bay, there will still be calm here.

5.

6. The path to the Dead Bay beach goes through this ravine, and you will also have to cross the ravine if you walk from Koktebel to Quiet Bay.

7. From Dead Bay it is very close to Mount Kuchuk-Yenishar, on the top of which is located.

8. From the high shore of Dead Bay there are excellent views of the Koktebel Bay and the Kara-Dag ridge.

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