Unexplored Italy: Mantova. Open left menu Mantua Entertainment and attractions of Mantua
Before visiting Mantua, this Italian town evoked in me associations exclusively with Shakespeare, or rather with the phrase from: “I sent a torchbearer to Mantua!”
Despite the fact that most Russians associate Mantua with nothing else other than Romeo’s forced exile, this city is in fact a real treasure chest: small, but full of treasures, both historical, cultural and gastronomic. points of view.
Let's start with a small, not even historical, but geographical excursion. Initially, the city was not located on the mainland, as it is now, but on an island surrounded by lakes and a tributary of the Mincio River. In Mantua, as in Venice, the streets were adjacent to canals, which were later closed and converted into pavements.
Now there is only one canal in the city, but it is also closed, but the lakes have not gone away, they are located at the entrance to the city and, when you drive past, they seem like two huge mirrors, a sort of water gate of Mantua.
CITY ATTRACTIONS: CITY CENTER
Despite the fact that the Etruscans and Gauls were the first to settle on the lakes, and it was here, according to legend, that Virgil was born, the heyday of Mantua occurred in the fourteenth to seventeenth centuries, when the Gonzaga family became lords of the Duchy of Mantua. It is to them that Mantua owes so many palaces and castles that the city claims to be the European Capital of Culture in 2019. In principle, you can write at least a couple of sentences about every house in Mantua, but we will focus on the main attractions of the city.
CASTELLO DI SAN GIORGIO
The architect of Castello di San Giorgio was the engineer Bartolino da Navarra. According to his design, powerful walls, decorated, as elsewhere in northern Italy, with Ghibelline signs, were surrounded by a moat filled with water from the surrounding lakes. It is the Castle of St. George that is the first thing you see when entering the city. Despite the fact that very soon the castle began to be used not so much for defensive purposes, but as a place of residence for Gonzaga, and therefore in the 15th century additional rooms were added to the castle, and the interior rooms were decorated with frescoes and paintings - a moat with water and other attributes of a classic fortress have remained here to this day.
Today, the Castle of St. George belongs not even to the government of Mantua, but to the cats that inhabit it - there are even more fat and tailed ones here than tourists, they are not afraid of people, but they do not allow themselves to be petted.
PALAZZO DUCALE
In fact, the Palace of the Dukes (and this is the most correct way to translate the name Palazzo Ducale into Russian) is connected to the Castle of St. George, so in principle it is a single complex of buildings that belonged to the Gonzaga lords, who built a real city inside Mantua.
In the photo: garden in the courtyard of Palazzo Ducale
The fact is that local residents did not favor the Gonzaga family very much, and the lords, fearing an attack from the Mantovans, tried not to go out into the streets of the city unless necessary, and surrounded their palaces with impressive walls. For a long time, Palazzo Ducale was closed to tourists, but today some of the halls are open to the public.
So, behind the walls of the castle there is a luxurious garden, the second garden (suspended) is laid out on the roof of the first floor of the palazzo (just like).
All rooms and halls of the palace are through and connected to each other by passages, so there is no need to talk about any privacy in the life of the Gonzaga lords. Among the most interesting and noteworthy halls: the hall of hunters with eerie masks on the ceiling, the hall of the zodiac with paintings in the form of animated constellations, the hall of rivers with statues made of sandstone, the labyrinth hall with an encrypted inscription on the ceiling: “Maybe, “Yes,” or maybe “No”, as well as a gallery whose frescoes replicate the corridors of the Vatican.
Since the Gonzagas did not like to leave their monastery, there is also a house church in the complex with the name Santa Barbara, so familiar to Russian ears, although it is closed to the public. But you can see the impressive size bed of the dukes, imported from Milan, a stone bathtub and a marble sink, in which representatives of aristocratic families took baths in the fresh air.
HOUSE OF RIGOLETTO
Opposite the palace is Rigoletto's house: it was at this address that the hunchback, the main character of Verdi's opera, lived.
In the photo: Rigoletto statue in Mantua
In the courtyard of the house there is a bronze statue of Rigoletto, and in the same building you can buy a ticket for a mass visit to all the museums of the city (the ticket costs 15 euros).
PIAZZA SORDELLO
One wall of the Palazzo Ducale faces entirely piazza Sordello. The square is amazingly beautiful, but there is one thing: the stones with which it is paved are real cobblestones, so while walking in flip-flops, the soles of your feet experience unbearable torment.
In the photo: giant paving stones on Piazza Sordello
Right there on the square there is also Saint Paul's Cathedral. From the outside, Duomo San Pietro is nothing special, except for the red brick side inserts, but inside the temple you can spend an hour, and not only because in the summer the basilica is pleasantly cool.
The inside of the dome of the cathedral is decorated with frescoes, the altars are decorated with canvases by Lorenzo Costa, and the columns of the temple are made of Carrara marble. In general, the decoration of the cathedral is so rich that it can compete, for example, with Santa Maria Mangiore in Rome. Costa’s painting “The Martyrdom of Saint Agatha” deserves special attention, although, to be honest, this is not the most pleasant Christian story, because Saint Agatha’s breasts were ripped out.
In the photo: the Cathedral of San Pietro in Mantua
On the other side of the square - Torre della Gabbia(the building is easily recognizable by its tower, which for a long time was the tallest in the city), is famous for the fact that during the Middle Ages, criminals were shown to the public in iron cages attached to the wall of the building.
Along the narrow streets, paved with not so deadly cobblestones, we go to the city center through the gallery of arches and find ourselves on Piazza delle Erbe- the second main square of the city. Here are Rotunda of San Lorenzo- the oldest church in Mantua, built in 1082 by order of Matilda di Canossa. By the way, it was discovered only at the beginning of the twentieth century, after the houses built on this site were demolished.
In the photo: Rotunda of San Lorenzo in Mantua
Almost next to the rotunda is another palace - Palazzo Della Ragione, the attention of city guests is mainly attracted by the palace tower with a huge astrological clock.
Well, it’s right there Basilica of Sant'Andrea: a beautiful, but very strange building. Beautiful, because its interior is entirely made of gold, strange, because the basilica is part of a Benedictine monastery that was completed later.
The result is a building of a very peculiar shape, it seems as if the cathedral was surrounded on all sides by giant Lego cubes, and therefore it is not even possible to find the entrance to the basilica the first time. Also among the interesting buildings located in the center of Mantua, I would like to mention the Merchants' Palace. Palazzo della Camera di Commercio- not as old as it seems at first glance, it was built only in 1913, but it is a magnificent example of neo-medieval style.
In the photo: Palazzo della Camera di Commercio
PALAZZO TE: OUTSIDE THE CITY CENTER
Away from the center of Mantua is Palazzo Te, another Gonzaga palace designed by Raphael's student Giulio Romano in the sixteenth century. The palace's appearance is more like a villa, surrounded by a lush garden, and the walls are lined with blocks of uncut stone.
Inside the palace there are frescoes and richly painted ceilings, especially the Hall of Horses: the vaults are decorated with carved panels with Greek ornaments, the walls are also decorated with panels depicting horses - the favorite animals of the Gonzaga family. Another interesting thing is the Hall of Winds and the Zodiac, where sixteen medallions depict the signs of the zodiac, as well as figures of the Gods and Elements.
And, of course, the Hall of Cupid and Psyche in the room intended for banquets deserves special attention. Entrance here is, as they say, only for adults, because the love scenes of Cupid and Psyche are depicted in all pornographic details.
In the photo: the Hall of Cupid and Psyche in Palazzo Te
In the Palazzo Ducale there is also a hall of Cupid and Psyche, but everything there is decorous and noble and without positions from the Kama Sutra. By the way, they say that the artist, at the request of the customer, gave the characters in the porn fresco a resemblance to members of the noble families of Italy, so Psyche is the embodiment of Boschetti, and Venus is Isabella d’Este (the Duke’s mother).
SHOPPING
All the main shops of Mantua are located on the street leading to Piazza delle Erbe directly under the arches. There is MaxMara with Sportmax, a Chanel beauty boutique, and many multi-brand stores selling mainly shoes. Of the original Italian brands, I would like to mention the boutique Sandro Ferrone is a Roman brand that produces tunics, overalls, shoes and dresses, reminiscent of MaxMara in style. Things are of high quality, but they are several times cheaper than those from famous neighbors: from 50 to 120 euros. 
In the photo: Sandro Ferrone boutique window display
Also near Mantua is the classic Fashion District outlet village with 110 stores of different price categories: from Bottega Veneta to Calzedonia and Adidas. Discounts: from 30 to 70%, store opening hours: from 10.00 to 20.00. Official website: , where you can also order a transfer to the outlet village and back.
GASTRONOMY
After a visit to Mantua, I associate Romeo’s place of exile exclusively with tortellini, and this despite the fact that the neighboring region of Emilia-Romagna is considered the birthplace of this type of pasta, which is an Italian variation on the theme of our favorite dumplings.
According to legend, the shape of tortellini should repeat the shape of the navel of Venus (or, according to another version, the shape of the navel of the mistress of the cook who invented this type of pasta), but since then a lot of water has passed under the bridge, so, for example, classic tortellini with pumpkin (a traditional dish of Mantua) have the shape square. Pasta filling: a mixture of boiled pumpkin, salted Parmesan, mustard, nutmeg, and ricotta or amaretto liqueur. By the way, this type of tortellini was originally a traditional treat served on Christmas Eve - on the eve of Christmas, the Catholic Church does not recommend eating meat.
Speaking of meat, or more precisely about antipasti. In Mantua, on sale and in almost any butcher shop, you can find culatello, a meat delicacy similar to ham, which takes 36 months to prepare. Also, lovers of all kinds of sausages are recommended to try salame mantovano - salami in a white pork casing with the addition of garlic, coarse salt and pepper; the sausage is dried for three to six months, depending on the size.
Also among the local specialties is ciccioli mantovani - fried pork fat, very reminiscent of our Russian cracklings, which was originally a dish of the surrounding villages, but over time it has taken root in the city.
Meat dishes are served with mostarda - a sauce made from fruits marinated in mustard or syrup. Although mostarda looks like sweet jam, it tastes more like wasabi, so mustard should be used carefully.
The most famous local sweet is sbrisolòna, a cake whose dough consists of white, yellow flour and sugar in equal parts, to which butter, yolk and almond crumbs are then added.
The cake is very hard, it is impossible to cut it, so the sweetness is broken into pieces with a blow of the fist. The resulting pieces, which taste like macaroons, are eaten dipped in white wine.
Mantua, even for Italy rich in attractions, is a unique creation of human hands. It is no coincidence that the entire historical center of the city, including squares, buildings, and streets, is included in the UNESCO list as a single unique value. The winds of history could not change the identity of Mantua. And people did everything possible to preserve this beautiful city as long as possible.
It was described by Virgil and mentioned by Verdi in Rigoletto. Romeo, by the will of Shakespeare, was exiled here after his duel with Tybalt. Such fame is not accidental. Mantua or Mantova, as the Italians call it, was recognized as the cultural capital of Italy during the Renaissance. By the way, in 2019 this city was nominated by Italy for the title of European Capital of Culture.
Mantua is located on the banks of the Mincio River. Once upon a time it was located on an island between lakes and a river, reminiscent of Venice with its landscapes. But some of the lakes were drained and the canals were filled in. They left one, probably, to complete the range of attractions. To definitely have all possible beauties and rarities in one place. Two beautiful lakes at the entrance to Mantua have also been preserved.
Gonzaga - patrons of Mantua
In 1328, Luigi Gonzago defeated his predecessor, forgotten by history, and made his family the hereditary rulers of Mantua for many centuries. The famous family had many of its own “skeletons in the closet.” Who among those in power in the Middle Ages did not engage in intrigue, did not send unwanted relatives to monasteries and to the next world? The Dukes of Gonzago were no exception. But for the city they became real guardians, philanthropists, and selfless patrons.
Each successive member of the family considered the strengthening and flourishing of Mantua to be one of their main tasks in life. In addition to attracting the best architects, creators, and builders to the construction of the city, they made it a center of culture and art. In fact, they became trendsetters in artistic tastes, fashion, and even the morals of their time. Being included in the Mantuan court was considered prestigious throughout Europe.
It is clear that such influence became possible after the strengthening of political positions. Smart and far-sighted Gonzaga became related to representatives of influential families of the Austrian and Byzantine dynasties, established diplomatic relations with the Holy Roman Empire, the Venetian Republic, and the Pope. In the Ducal Palace, the main attraction of Mantua, there is a hall decorated with portraits of representatives of the family. 13 bishops, 14 cardinals, there is even a saint, confirmed in this title by the Pope. Decent list. One of the portraits, which depicts the family in its composition at the beginning of the 17th century, belongs to the brush of Rubens himself.
Thanks to the skilful political maneuvering of the rulers, Mantua was the only independent city until the 18th century. Then, after regular wars for supremacy and territory, the city was annexed to the Kingdom of Austria. After a while, Napoleon “managed” it. Then again Austria. This ended the prosperity of Mantua. Only in 1866 did it become part of Italy.
Subsequent political storms also left a mark on her appearance. But Italy has done everything possible to restore, improve and preserve the beautiful face of the city. Fun fact: representatives of the Gonzaga family periodically work in the city mayor's office. And its head is given the right to open the annual Mantua Festival in Italy.
Lovely Mantua
The city is so harmonious that it gives the impression of a treasure box. The Dukes of Gonzaga and their numerous vassals strove to surpass all European courts in the construction of their homes. Many have succeeded. The palaces and castles of Mantua are so unique that they often do not allow comparison. Each building in the city has its own interesting history and its own flavor. It is simply impossible to talk briefly about everything that deserves attention. Numerous tourists have compiled their ratings of top attractions.
Palazzo Ducale or Ducal Palace. It belonged, naturally, to the Gonzago family. And at that time it was the largest in Europe. Now the majestic structure is no less impressive. This is not one thing, but a whole ensemble of buildings, including a fortress, a basilica and the palace itself, numbering 500 rooms.
Like many famous buildings of the Middle Ages, this landmark of the city took more than one century to build. Hence the mixture of different styles, but done skillfully, with respect for harmony and beauty. The rooms are connected by beautiful passages, corridors, galleries, courtyards and gardens. The interiors of the halls and premises are decorated with the most valuable cultural works of that time. Here are works by Leonardo da Vinci, Donatello, Andrea Mantegna, Giulio Romano. Even unfinished frescoes by Pisanello have been preserved, interesting because they bring to life the pages of legends about the glorious King Arthur.
The cathedral, located in Piazza Sordello directly opposite the Palazzo Ducale. The cathedral is not impressive in size, but it is so unusual from the outside! Especially if you walk around it, observing the sharp change in architectural styles. The Romanesque style gives way to Gothic, red brick walls give way to a multi-colored marble facade in the Baroque style, lancet windows and spiers give way to austere chapels. The internal naves and altars of the cathedral are decorated with priceless frescoes, paintings by Francesco Costa, and columns made of Carrara marble. Luxurious and majestic - this is how one can characterize the majestic structure, famous throughout Italy.
The unusual architecture and rich interior decoration make the Basilica of Sant'Andrea stand out from the general range of attractions in Mantua. Initially, on the site of the temple there was a Benedictine monastery. In the 15th century, taking the most beautiful part of the structure as a basis, the architect Alberti designed the future masterpiece. Alas, he himself was unable to realize his plans, and his students brought to life only part of the project. In general, like most medieval palaces, the building became a long-term construction project. But every cloud has a silver lining: each subsequent architect added their own twists to the creation of the masterpiece.
Palazzo del Te attracts like a magnet everyone who has ever heard of it. The creation of Raphael's favorite student Giulio Romano is considered the standard of mannerism - a mannered, sophisticated, original style. Romano was the son of his century and put all his creativity, inspiration, and talent into this palace. He was not limited in funds. Federico Gonzago, who ruled at that time, prospered, and for complete happiness he only needed a special room for entertainment and feasts.
Giulio Romano created a unique work of art. Moreover, the unusual landmark was erected in just a year and a half. Over the next decade, the interiors were decorated and replenished with new masterpieces. The Halls of the Giants, Cupid and Psyche, and the large Horse Hall are decorated with frescoes, which Romano himself worked on. Colorful, often piquant plots, a wealth of details, and luxurious decor give an idea of the frivolity and freedom of morals of that time. The colossal size of the “Descent of the Titans” fresco and the unique naturalism of the work are simply stunning!
But besides the ancient attractions, it is worth getting acquainted with one more - the Tazio Nuvolari Museum. The legendary racer brought glory to his hometown. He even had a nickname: “The Flying Mantuan.” In the 20s of the last century, he became a star of auto racing and forever remained the pride of Mantua and all of Italy.
Mantua. Italy.
- an ancient city in the Lombardy region.Mantua was founded by the Etruscans in the 6th century. BC. But the city reached its maximum prosperity during the Signoria under the control of Gonzaga, i.e. in 1328-1707 Gonzaga is one of the most famous and influential families of the Italian Renaissance. The Gonzagas were first lords of Mantua, then marquises, and then dukes.
Gongaz's policy was to protect the borders and maintain a peaceful balance between powerful neighbors: the Republic of Venice, Milan and Ferrara.
Since 1708, Mantua came under the rule of the Austrians. In 1797, the city was captured by Napoleon's troops.
The Congress of Vienna in 1815 returned Mantua to the Austrians.
In 1866 the city became part of a united Italy.
Modern Mantua is a lively and tourist city, it is picturesquely surrounded by lakes.
Such a water system developed in the 12th century, when the architect and engineer Alberto Pitentino proposed organizing the defense of the city using the Mincio River. So four lakes appeared around the residential center - Superiore, Mezzo, Inferiore and Paiolo, making Mantua an island that was connected to the “mainland” by two bridges.
From the railway station we will walk along the avenue corso Vittorio Emanuele II which leads piazza Andrea Mantegna. Here we are met Basilica of St. Andrew (Basilica di Sant'Andrea), erected according to the design of Leon Battista Alberti in 1472. After 328 years, the dome was built according to the drawings of Filippo Juvarra.
The crypt contains sacred vases with the blood of Christ, which was brought to Mantua by the Roman centurion Longinus.
Longinus, by order of Pilate, pierced the side of Christ with a spear, at that moment an eclipse of the sun and an earthquake occurred and the centurion believed in Christ. In addition, Longinus passed his hand, stained with the blood of Christ, over his diseased eyes, and they became healthy. Legend says that Longinus brought the collected blood to his hometown.
In one of the aisles of the basilica painter Andrea Mantegna buried, who died in Mantua in 1506.
To the right of the basilica extends Square of Herbs (Piazza delle Erbe), which takes its name from the fruit and vegetable market located here.
Flower market on the square.
The oldest building of the square and the city is round church of Saint Lorenzo.
Church of Saint Lorenzo and Clock Tower.
The Church of St. Lorenzo (Rotonda di San Lorenzo) was built in the 11th century. by order of Matilda di Canossa, traces of Byzantine frescoes have been preserved inside. Matilda di Canossa was a powerful and influential woman of the Middle Ages, it was she who acted as a mediator between Pope Gregory VII and Emperor Henry IV, who was excommunicated and humiliatingly asked for forgiveness.
Interior of the Church of Saint Lorenzo.
Next to the church stands the Clock Tower, dating back to the 15th century. The watch also shows the lunar phases and in which zodiac constellation the sun is located.
Watch.
Let's move on to Piazza Sordello.
On Piazza Sordello the main buildings of Mantua are concentrated.
Entering the square through the arch, you have a beautiful view of the Cathedral, made in the Gothic style.
The body of Saint Anselm da Baggio, the patron saint of Mantua, is kept under the main altar.
To the right of the cathedral - Ducal Palace- the city residence of the Gozaga family, a huge complex consisting of a labyrinth of rooms and corridors.
Ducal Palace (Palazzo Ducale). Piazza Sordello, 4
Closed January 1, May 1, December 25 and Mondays.
Open 8.45 – 19.15. Ticket 6.5 euros.
Curious are the rooms called "dwarf apartments", where everything is done in miniature size. But in fact, the dwarfs never lived here: it was a symbolic reconstruction.
Definitely worth mentioning "room for newlyweds", painted by Andrea Mantegna. The artist depicted a family portrait of the Gonzagas and scenes from court life in Mantua. The ceiling fresco, depicting a round gallery in the very center of the vault with people looking through the railings, is, in fact, the first illusionistic decoration in Western European art. The skilfully painted clouds further enhance the impression of a breakthrough into the sky.
Lived here Isabella d'Este- the most famous Marchioness of Mantua. Isabella d'Este was born in Ferrara, she was the eldest daughter of the Duke of Ferrara and the elder sister of the equally famous Beatrice d'Este, Duchess of Milan. Isabella d'Este received a good education and at the age of 16 she married 25-year-old Francesco II Gonzaga. Isabella d'Este was beautiful, intelligent, well-read and witty. She was fond of art and patronized artists and poets. Leonardo da Vinci, Andrea Mantegna, Perugino, Correggio, Ticinus, Raphael and others visited her palace.
Isabella d'Este loved jewelry and knew how to dress with taste. Beautiful and stylish, she quickly became the “first woman” of the Renaissance. At the same time, the English writer Henry Morton, a subtle observer and tireless in researching historical characters, notes that Isabella d'Este was arrogant , a punchy and bitchy woman who did not help the dying poor Mantegna, but bargained with him for the bust of Faustina. She walked through art studios and swept away everything that she liked. And if it came to shopping, then Isabella d'Este wrote in an orderly tone to find her an animal skin with a head for a muff.
When her husband Francesco died in 1519, Isabella's eldest son Federico inherited the throne. But he was still small, so Isabella d'Este became regent and continued to rule the country. During this time, Mantua's position strengthened.
Isabella d'Este died 20 years later; she was buried in the Church of St. Paul in Mantua, but her remains disappeared from the grave.
Ducal Palace
At the end of Piazza Sordello is Rigoletto's house- a character from Verdi's opera of the same name. This building hosts art exhibitions.
Let's turn right and see Castle of St. George (Via San Giorgio), which was erected in 1395 to protect the city, but in 1459 the castle was transformed into Fancelli's residence. The interior of the castle was designed by Mantegna.
Let's walk along the fortress walls and the embankment, then turn right onto via Trieste.
After crossing the canal, turn right onto via Gilberto Goi, then left to via Massari and right to via XX Settembre, which leads to Piazza Martiri di Belfiore. Previously, a church stood alongside the post office building on the square, but it was destroyed. The only thing left from the church is a statue of the Saint, installed on the bridge. This entire area was rebuilt at the beginning of the 19th century. Let's walk towards the Fish Market, covered with a series of porticoes. Here they traded fish caught in the lakes and brought to the market along the canals in boats. On the other side there were butcher shops.
Let's continue our route along via G.Chiassi.
At the crossroads with via Poma located Church of St. Barnabas. The modern building dates back to the 18th century, and the first news about the church dates back to 1268. Giulio Romano was buried in the church, but his grave was lost.
Let's walk along via Poma.
Where the street widens on the left there will be Giulio Romano's house, erected in 1544, but later rebuilt. Above the entrance doors there is a statue of Mercury and a ram - this is the coat of arms of the Giulio Romano family. The house is now privately owned and cannot be visited.
The real name of the brilliant architect, painter and draftsman was Giulio Pippi, the nickname Romano meant “Roman”, because. he was born in Rome. Giulio Romano was one of Raphael's most talented students. Under the direction of Raphael, he worked on frescoes in the Vatican and at the Villa Farnesina in Rome, he also painted a number of paintings and completed many of his teacher's unfinished works.
In 1524, Giulio Romano came to Mantua at the invitation of the Marquis Federico II Gonzaga. He was appointed chief architect of the Gonzaga palace buildings. In Mantua, Giulio Romano painted frescoes for the Ducal Palace, depicting scenes from the myth of Diana and from the history of the Trojan War. But the main creation was the Palazzo Te, to which we are going. Giulio Romano died in Mantua on November 1, 1546.
At the intersection with via Giovanni Acerbi Let's turn right.
Let's go forward and see the dominant one on the right side Church of Saint Sebastian, erected in 1460 according to the design of Leon Battista Alberti. Later, a warehouse was built in the church, but at the beginning of the 19th century. again for religious purposes.
Temple of Saint Sebastian
Almost opposite the church is the red brick house No. 47, known as house Mantegna.
Andrea Mantegna was a court artist from 1457 and the Marquis Louis Gonzaga gave him a piece of land. The red brick house with a unique cylindrical courtyard can be visited.
It is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 to 12.30 and from 15 to 18. Admission is free unless there are exhibitions.
Let's cross Viale Risorgimento And viale Isonzo, where there are two portals with Eagles. This is where it starts garden belonging to Te Palace. An alley surrounded by trees leads to Palazzo Te, which is another symbol of Mantua.
The palace was erected in 1525-35. Giulio Romano for Federico Gonzaga. The quadrangular palace is located on an island formed by a canal. The canal was surrounded by gardens, fountains, statues and trees, and in the center stood the Te Palace.
In subsequent centuries, the palace was used as barracks. Gardens, fountains and statues were destroyed. Why do soldiers need them?
Te Palace
Later the palace was restored. Now there is a museum with eight rooms where you can admire the works of Giulio Romano and other artists.
Cuisine of Mantua
Mantovana– typical bread from Mantua, round in shape, made from soft wheat.
Sorbir d'agnoli or bevr'in vin- a soup in which wine is added to the broth, and then pasta or tortelli, for example, with pumpkin (Tortelli di zucca).
Among the second typical dishes it is worth noting pike (lucio) And donkey or horse stew (Stracotto d'asino, Stracotto d'cavallo).
Dishes of Mantovan cuisine.
Mantua(Italian: Mantova) is a city sung by many famous poets and writers. Virgil and Charles Baudelaire, Dante and Charles Dickens admired its romantic atmosphere, ancient monuments, the calm waters of the Mincio River and surrounding lakes and the sincerity and goodwill of the local people.
First the land of the Etruscans, then the stronghold of the ancient Romans, Mantua has undergone great changes over time. In the twelfth century, in order to provide the city with water, four artificial lakes were created around the city, fed by the Mincio River, which turned Mantua into an island city.
In the seventeenth century, due to constant floods, the outskirts of Mantua gradually turned into swamps. To restore the city, one of the lakes was drained, so Mantua remained surrounded by water on only three sides. Lotus flowers, characteristic of the East, were planted in Lake Superior; here they found suitable habitat and quickly filled the lake. And Lake Mezzo and the Lower Lake are overgrown with water chestnuts, in the shade of which many tourists and locals still rest, watching the calmness of the water surface.
Mantua is the capital of the province of the same name in the Southeast and has approximately 55,000 inhabitants. Mantua is not at all like a metropolis, overflowing with bustle and noise. The city seems to have captured for centuries the austere character that a military fortified city was supposed to have (Mantua was one for almost two centuries).
The symbol of Mantua is the solemn tranquility of the nature that surrounds it. This is a city that you immediately like: the streets here are generally large, spacious, always clean and tidy, and the buildings are usually not too tall, simple, elegant and well-kept.
Walking around the city and stopping from time to time to look around, you can notice thousands of details that make this city so hospitable. The heaviness of the Roman ruins, the superb grandeur of the Renaissance buildings, the echoes of the power of Bonacolsi and the splendor of Gonzaga, are “softened” by the Benedictine churches and quiet cozy alleys of the periphery, which fascinate the visitor, especially in the morning hours.
Mantua
Mantua is a city that you will fall in love with at first sight, quiet and peaceful, which always has something to offer the visitor and where you always want to return.
How to get to Mantua
By plane
The airports closest to Mantova are:
Mantua - Monselice - Padua
By bus
Mantua can be reached by one of the intercity buses from the main cities of Italy.
On a ferryboat
Mantua can also be reached by water, across the Mincio River. The service is provided by Motonavi Andes agency.
Where to stay in Mantua
In addition to all of the above, we recommend visiting the Palazzo d'Arco, located on the square of the same name, the Palazzo San Sebastiano, the residence of Francesco II Gonzaga, where today the city museum is located, the churches of San Francesco, St. Barnabas and San Sebastiano (Famedio) and the ancient towers of the city.
What to try in Mantua
The city of Gonzaga is famous not only for its artistic beauty and natural landscapes, but also for its amazingly delicious food and fine wines.
Below you will find a list of dishes that you really must try if you travel to the only province in all of Italy that produces both Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Pork is the undisputed “star” among local “antipasti”, i.e. meat snacks. Be sure to try the Mantua salami with allspice and garlic, as well as the Spella Cotta. A note for gourmets: if you love meat and are close to the Sabbioneta quarter, the Corte Bondeno restaurant will offer you such a selection of meat dishes that you will simply be left speechless.
As we have already noted, Mantua is the only city in Italy where Grana Padano and Parmigiano are produced simultaneously: enjoy these cheeses accompanied by Mostarda di Mele mustard, which is prepared according to the ancient Gonzaga recipe only here.
"Mostarda di mele." Photo robysushi.com
FIRST MEAL:
It goes without saying that when you're in Mantua you "must" eat a plate of handmade pumpkin ravioli. Although this is a traditional Christmas Eve dish, you can find them any day of the year at any restaurant or tavern in town.
Two other dishes not to be missed are the pork-filled agnoli, usually served in broth, and the risotto alla pilota with pesto and sausages.
SECOND COURSES:
What to eat for main course? The best choice is the donkey stew "Stracotto d'azino".
Donkey stew is typically served with soft polenta or as a pasta sauce. The stew is made after marinating the donkey meat for a long time in Lambrusco and boiling until the meat is so soft that it can be eaten without using a knife, in general, until it becomes "stracotto", "overcooked".
Seafood lovers can choose from lake fish; we recommend trying pike with sauce.
The most famous sweet dish in Manua is "Sbrisolona": a dessert made with corn flour, almonds and butter. Yes, a little high in calories, but too tasty to deprive yourself of it!
Try the Helvetia cake, which, although not considered a traditional dessert of Mantua, has been prepared here since 1700.
Holidays in Mantua and the provinces
February
Mantua, like many cities in Italy, celebrates Carnival: on this day, “gnocchi” and carnival sweets are distributed in many provincial towns. And in the city of Castel d'Ario they organize a big "spaghettata" lunch.
March, April
Easter in Mantua is celebrated with a procession in historical costumes. Don't miss the traditional Easter celebrations in the town of Schivenoglia.
Roncoferraro Rodigo celebrates the patron saint of San Bernardino.
June
In June, the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul is celebrated in Viadana and the traditional rice festival in the town of Villimpenta.
July
The most popular events of the month are the fair of Vadana and the feast of the patron saint of Governolo, which is accompanied by a huge food fair where you can enjoy many good local dishes such as risotto, sausages, polenta and fish.
August
In August there is a festival "sacro e profano" in Curtatone and a unique celebration-reconstruction of "playing "live" chess" in Ponti sul Mincio. The city of Mantua also hosts an August fair, during which dozens of artists from around the world decorate the asphalt, turning the square into a huge work of art. The event is called "Concordo Madonnari".
"Concordo Madonnari". Photo flickr.com
September
September events include the city's Grape Festival, as well as the Gonzaga Millennial Fair, with performances, food and wine, which has been repeated annually since 1640.
November
Don't miss the Feast of Our Lady of Dosso in Casalmoro, a holiday that is also known as the Chicken Festival.
Mantua is the Italian Capital of Culture in 2016. This slogan greeted us in a town on the banks of the Mincio River, which, although it belongs to the Lombardy region, reminded me of Veneto. From Venice there is water, surrounding Mantua on almost all sides, and from the homeland of selfless Shakespearean lovers - Verona - romance. After all, there are our own Romeo and Juliet, who lived in the Neolithic Age...
However, Mantua was once very similar to Venice, since it stood entirely on the water, and there were canals inside the city. However, constant floods destroyed the city, and one of the four lakes surrounding it was drained. Due to the high humidity, Mantua is still enveloped in impenetrable fog in the mornings.
“Don’t worry, the sun comes out around 11-12,” the girl at the hotel reception assured us in an accent that was unfamiliar to my ear. And so it happened. By noon, the sun began to shine through the gray sky: the Carrara marble from which the facade of the Mantua Cathedral is made shone as if it had been thoroughly cleaned, tourists poured into the main square, and the feathered inhabitants of Mantua appeared by the lake.
Move to the opposite bank of the river from the center to see the city's outline.
Te Palace
Almost all the attractions of Mantua are concentrated in one place. So, if you stand next to one of them, you will see another not far away. The only thing that stands apart is the Te Palace (Palazzo Te) - a huge villa made in the Mannerist style.
To a person who knows Italian, it may seem that the name of Palazzo Te in Mantua is somehow connected with tea ( te- "tea"). But that's not true. Just a few centuries ago there was a small river island of Teyeto on this site. The palace got its name from him. Having served as a country house for the festive receptions of Prince Federico II of Gonzaga, Palazzo Te is now a museum. Ticket price is 12 euros, for children over 11 years old and students – 4 euros.
Eagle Gate
Before approaching Te Palace, you will probably notice two arches with eagles perched on top of them. This is the Eagle Gate (Portali delle Aquile), which was designed by the Bolognese architect Giovanni A. Antolini at the beginning of the 19th century. But the birds of prey were “placed” on them by Veronese resident Gaetano Muttoni.
The price for parking in Mantua is 1 euro per hour. If you want to park for the whole day, then choose the giornalier tariff o – 5 euros. There is free parking opposite the Science Park.
Grass area
Almost every Italian city has (or had) a so-called “grass square” - Piazza delle Erbe. This is the square where spices, vegetables, and fruits were once traded (hence erbe) and not only. In Mantua, on Piazza delle Erbe and its neighboring Piazza Mantegna, several monuments are concentrated:
- Palace of the Mind(Palazzo della Ragione) with the clock tower Torre dell’Orologio - the place where ten centuries ago the elders of the city gathered to resolve disputes between its inhabitants. A tower with a huge clock, which, by the way, still works properly - showing the time, month and phases of the moon - appeared next to the Palace in the 15th century.
The ground floor of the Palazzo itself now houses restaurants. Closer to lunch, their employees begin to offer discount coupons to passers-by, but, as practice shows, the best Italian restaurants are always well hidden from view. Below I will tell you where to eat in Mantua.
- Rotunda of St. Lawrence(Rotonda di San Lorenzo) is one of the most ancient attractions of Mantua. A round church appeared on this site in 1083, but it is believed that some parts of it existed as early as the 4th century. One way or another, for a long time the Rotunda remained the main city church, until one of the Dukes of Gonzaga decided to close it in the 16th century. Abandoned and almost destroyed, it stood until the 1900s, when it was finally restored and reopened for church services.
- Basilica of St. Andrew(Basilica di Sant "Andrea) is an unusually large church for such a small town. Large not only because of its size, but also because of its purpose: it contains a vessel with the blood of Christ! They say that it was brought here by a Roman guard who pierced with a spear the side of the crucified Christ - Longinus the Centurion. Later, Longinus and other soldiers remained to guard the tomb of the Savior and saw with their own eyes how he was resurrected, from that moment believing in God.
Sordello Square
Despite the significance of the Basilica of St. Andrew in the Christian religion, another temple was chosen as the Cathedral of Mantua. The Duomo (as the Italians call the main city churches) - Duomo di Mantova - stands on Piazza Sordello.
The cathedral building is a hodgepodge. This is explained by the fact that the church was rebuilt more than once, elements were added to it, which (naturally) were performed in the style popular at that time. The facade of the basilica is made of Carrara marble - one of the most valuable in the world. By the way, I once visited the mountains where it is mined, and I will definitely tell you about it!
On Sunday, opposite the Mantua Cathedral, you will find a flea market. If you like things with history, there is something to buy here: bags, jewelry, coffee sets... But even if you are not going to buy anything, you can just feel nostalgic. For example, I found a 200-ruble bill from my childhood
Piazza Sordello got its name thanks to the sly man who was born here. The poet and musician Sordello kidnapped the wife of the ruler of Verona and hid with her in France. However, she was not against it and was generally famous for her debauchery. Other troubadours composed songs about the story of this couple, and Dante placed the character of Sordello in his “Divine Comedy.”
Ducal Palace
In addition to the Duomo, in Piazza Sordello you will see the Ducal Palace (Palazzo Ducale). As you already understood, the Dukes of Mantua bore the surname Gonzaga. Apparently, they loved to show off their wealth if they built themselves a residence of 34 thousand square meters, which in its wealth can only compete with the Vatican.
Nowadays, the huge Mantuan palace houses a complex of museums. If you want to make the most of your trip, purchase a Mantova Card for 20 euros. Its price includes a visit to the Palazzo Ducale complex (if you buy a ticket separately, it will cost 12 euros), a visit to the already mentioned Palace of the Mind and the Palazzo Te and several other objects in Mantua and the nearby city of Sabbioneta. This card is valid for 72 hours – enough to see both cities.
Lovers of Mantua
Unlike Romeo and Juliet, whose real existence there is no evidence, the lovers of Mantua (Amanti di Mantova) are the most real. At least they were like that 6000 years ago. Two skeletons, male and female, hugging, were found in 2007 in Valdaro, a neighborhood of Mantua. At the time of burial, the guy was 18-22 years old, the girl was 16-20.
House of Rigoletto
I'm a jester, I'm... Rigoletto! The house of the court jester Rigoletto is nothing more than a tourist attraction. Well, sort of like Juliet’s balcony in Verona or Columbus’s house in Genoa. Rigoletto is a character from the opera of the same name by Giuseppe Verdi. He is the prototype of the real-life jester Triboulet, who amused the French king Francis I, which means he lived in France! The play “The King Amuses himself” was written by Victor Hugo about these two historical characters, but for some reason censorship did not allow them to be used in an opera based on the play. Therefore, the French king, unexpectedly for everyone, turned into the Duke of Mantua, also not a saint, and the jester Triboulet - into Rigoletto.
The story is kind of completely sad, despite the fact that its main character is a buffoon. In short, there lived a depraved duke in Mantua, and his jester, knowing about the master’s preferences, carefully hid his daughter Gilda from him. But, apparently, he didn’t hide it very well... Gilda still met the handsome Duke, disguised as a student, and even succumbed to his sweet promises. Rigoletto, having learned about everything, decided to take revenge for his daughter’s shame and hired a killer to protect him. Only the poor fellow did not take into account the fact that Gilda was in love with the Duke. She decided to sacrifice herself to save his life. The girl dressed up in men's clothes, and the mercenary killed her, and brought the corpse in a bag to Rigoletto... Now in Rigoletto's house there is a tourist office where you can get a map of the city. And in its courtyard there is a statue of a sad jester.
Virgil Square
Let's start with the fact that Virgil, also known as the “Swan of Mantua,” was an ancient Roman poet. In his hometown - Mantua - there is a square named after him - Piazza Virgiliana. During the reign of Gonzaga, and this is the 14th-18th centuries, there was a small port on this site. Now it is a park, decorated with a monument made of Carrara marble, already familiar to us.
Many streets and squares in Mantua are paved with stones - put away your beautiful stilettos while traveling
Church of the Madonna earthquake
I agree, this is an unusual name for a church. This is explained by the fact that an earthquake actually occurred in Mantua in 1693. The townspeople, feeling the tremors, began to ask the Mother of God for protection, and it seems that she heard them. The tremors stopped, and in 1754 the Church of the Earthquake Madonna (Chiesa della Madonna del Terremoto) appeared on Piazza Canossa.
LocksaintGeorge
The Castle of St. George (Castello di San Giorgio), built at the beginning of the 15th century, is part of the same Ducal Palace. But I suggest you go around the already familiar Piazza Sordello with its attractions and go beyond the historical center of Mantua, to the Mincio River. From this angle, the castle seems simply huge.
It is a pity that we were not able to see its main asset - the Marriage Room (Camera degli sposi) - they were not allowed there with a dog. The artist Andrea Mantegna painted the walls and ceiling of this room, which glorified his name for centuries. Still would! At that time, people had no idea what 3D was. Here is a picture from the Internet so that you understand what the Marriage Room looks like.
A parkSciences
Along the Mincio promenade there is a place where you can walk and study at the same time - Science Park (Parco della Scienza). Toddlers and adults can interact with their echo through a long tube, watch how multiple lines "turn" into a triangle when viewed from the right angle, and look for different profiles in the same picture. For example, what did you see in these images?
An elderly man and two lovers hid in the first, and a young girl and an old woman hid in the second. Were you able to see it? Write in the comments!
What and where to eat in Mantua?
As promised, I’m revealing the secrets of where you can eat delicious food in the city of Mantua. Restaurant Gialо Zucca (rating 4.5/5 on Google) is located at Corte dei Sogliari, 4. The name, apparently, is associated with the favorite literary genre of the owner of the establishment - “giallo” in Italy is the name for detectives, and there are a lot of them in the establishment. And “zucca” - that is, pumpkin - is here, most likely, because the inhabitants of Mantua use this vegetable in local cuisine.
Lunch or dinner at Giallo Zucca will cost you 30-40 euros, if you take the first, second and dessert. Add to this the service fee - coperto– 2.50 euros per person. The menu here changes every month, but there are always traditional Mantuan dishes. Such as, tortellidizuccaalburrosalviaegranapadano– dumplings with pumpkin, butter, sage and local Grana Padano cheese. Or crumbly pie sbrisolona
Mantua amazes with its calm and equanimity. In the morning the city is covered with a foggy haze, but this not only does not spoil it, but also gives it charm. And it gives peace to passers-by. If you ever find yourself in a difficult situation and the tigers are scratching at your soul, just come here for a week or two. It will cost less than going to a psychotherapist, believe me