Yazd Iran. Yazd. Walk through the oldest city of Iran. Fire Temple Atashkadeh

If you ask if I have been to Tehran, I will honestly answer: even twice. When traveling to the south of Iran and then returning to the north. But at the same time I have to add: I was in Tehran, but I did not stay in it. A huge multimillion-dollar city with wide streets, crowds of passers-by, chaotic traffic and, as all reference books say, the most polluted air in the world floated past me in the window of a bright yellow taxi. The only sights I visited were Azadi (Freedom) Square with its huge white marble monument and National Museum. I really liked the last one. However, I will continue in order.

Old clay town

Travel map

So, the bus from Ghazvin arrived at Tehran North Station. Taxi drivers simply call it Azadi, because central square the north of the capital is nearby. The station turned out to be quite large. Buses from here go not only to Gilan, Mashhad and Iranian Azerbaijan, but also to Isfahan, Shiraz and Yazd. There are international flights to Ankara, Baghdad, Damascus, Baku and Herat. I was going to Yazd, not by bus, but by train, so I took a taxi for six dollars and went to the train station.
The railway in Iran is the only transport monopoly of the state. Bus companies, savari (minibuses), airplanes and even oil and gas pipelines - all this has long been given into private hands. Guidebooks warn that the monopoly is not always effective, trains are constantly late, and employees show enviable indifference or even rudeness towards passengers. Maybe the authors of the guidebooks are right in some ways, but I got the opposite impression.

Azadi Square in Tehran

Residents of Tehran

The huge railway station was filled with crowds of people. Everyone was going somewhere. But I got my bearings pretty quickly. Fortunately, there were signs in English everywhere. There was a queue at the information department on the second floor. True, only to one window out of two. A sweet woman's face looked out from the second. I headed towards this face:
“Good afternoon, I would like one ticket to Yazd.”
“Good afternoon,” the face smiled charmingly, lowering its eyes. - For tomorrow?"
“Preferably for today.”
The face disappeared somewhere and did not appear for quite some time. I had already decided that it was somewhere fixing my makeup, having forgotten about my existence. But then the girl came back and said:
“Please give me your passport.”
In the passport, she was only interested in the correct spelling of my name. Later I appreciated this step. At bus ticket offices they usually wrote my name by ear. It turned out funny: Dizim, Dizmini, Dzhimitrem, Jim Trem and so on. Probably because the ticket sellers there were exclusively men.
“Come back in two hours,” she nodded.
Two hours? Not so much. I was going to take a walk around the southern historical part of the city, but I didn’t get anywhere beyond the station. Those who wanted to talk to a foreigner immediately approached me. The first was a Russian language teacher from Ilam University. In his hands he clutched a folder with the inscription “Teacher of the Russian language.” The fact that I spoke Russian seemed to him like an omen from God. Outwardly, my interlocutor looked very serious, but the fact that he knew how to construct such funny phrases as “America is tiger paper” or “riding on a rail track” showed that he was a great original. The second person to come up was a guy from... Gazvin. He was interested in one topic - the possibility of cheap travel outside Iran. I told the guy about free youth camps and hospitality clubs. At the end of the conversation, he amazed me with his encyclopedic knowledge about Belarus and Lithuania and admitted that he would like to someday move to our place of permanent residence. However, someday is not soon. For now he is liable for military service, which means he cannot travel abroad.
Thanks to my interlocutors, time flew by. I again went up to the second floor and received a ticket in my hands, and at the same time the number of the platform, carriage and compartment written down on a separate piece of paper. The girl was worried that I wouldn’t mix anything up. Traveling a distance approximately equal to the road from Vilnius and Kyiv cost about seven dollars.
I went down to the platform. There were few passengers. Station employees allowed access to trains only ten minutes before departure. In my case they made a small exception. Both externally and internally the trains looked quite modern. The new carriages with compartments for six people seemed much more comfortable than those we use. Every train, even those traveling a relatively short distance from the capital, had a dining car. The train to Yazd was no different in this sense. Free services for passengers: a bottle of ice water and a cup of warm herbal tea with honey. My traveling companions were five young men. They didn’t show much interest in me, so I calmly climbed onto the top shelf and fell into a peaceful sleep.
How long have I been asleep? Just six and a half hours. This is how long the train took to Yazd. When they woke me up, pointing a finger at the window, behind which there was an impenetrable night, I looked at the clock and shook my head negatively.
“No, I have to go to Yazd, but I still have to cut and cut to get to it,” I told the guide.
“Yazd! Yazd! – the conductor pointed his finger at the window again and again.
I had to quickly pack my backpack and dump it onto the platform. It seemed that the conductor was just playing a trick on me. A train making frequent stops could not reach its destination so quickly. But then I raised my head and read the name of the Yazd station. Indeed Yazd!

Hotel courtyard in Yazd

The ancient city was plunged into absolute darkness. Focusing more by touch, I went out into the street and got into the first taxi I came across. The taxi driver stepped on the gas before I could name the hotel I was going to stay at. The driver took me to Silk Road, an inexpensive hotel in the old part of the city. There were no places there, but the elderly owner was not at a loss and transferred me across the road to the neighboring Orient Hotel. As it turned out later, Orient belonged to his son. They gave me a white, clean room in a former caravanserai building and wished me good night. No one asked for a deposit or even a passport.
I didn't want to sleep anymore. I tried to watch TV, but at night there was only one channel on which suras from the Koran were broadcast. Only in the morning did the real programs begin: something about a garden and a vegetable garden, a small documentary about the life of desert rodents, and then aerobics. Only boys did aerobics, and in winter tracksuits. Their actions were commented on by two presenters - a man and a woman. But for some reason the woman was shown less often, although she had to speak more often. In general, Iranian television seemed funny, although not very interesting.
By that time it was dawn outside. Without waiting for the hot day to start, I left the hotel. An old man in traditional trousers was riding towards me on an ancient bicycle.
"Salaam!" - he shouted as he walked.
“Salaam alaikum,” I nodded.
Near the Jameh Mosque, merchants bustled about, hanging pieces of calico fabric over their counters. They were so busy that they might not have noticed my presence. But as soon as we got closer, greetings were heard:
“Salaam, Khariji! Hello, Mister!
"Salaam!" - I answered.
I walked down the street and people continued to say hello. They greeted, however, not only me, but also each other. It was clear from everything that this was a city of friendly people. What also caught my eye was that, unlike Gazvin, life here moved slowly and steadily.

On the street in Yazd

Meanwhile, Yazd is one of the main tourist centers of Iran. Its name comes from the name of the ancient Persian deity Yazdan. Situated on the spurs of rocky mountains, it has long attracted foreign merchants traveling with caravans from India to the Mediterranean. There was water in Yazd. Locals learned to build ganats - underground channels and water storage facilities. The water gave water to people and camels. It was the main and only value, because there were no other riches in this desert land. In the 13th – 14th centuries, Yazd was twice destroyed by the Mongols and Tamerlane’s warriors, but the rest of the time numerous conquerors bypassed it. Thanks to this, the city has well preserved traditional buildings. The walls of the houses here were built from unbaked bricks and then coated with adobe. Badgir towers were installed on the roofs. They caught the wind and thus air-conditioned the rooms. Gradually, Yazd turned into a major economic center, which became impoverished along with the end of caravan trade. A new revival began about forty years ago. A railway line was built here, and then, with the help of Soviet specialists, a modern airport and textile mill were built. Today, the production of calico fabrics and serving foreign tourists are the main occupations of the Yazdan residents.
Magic ancient city you feel it almost immediately. Ancient narrow streets, convex roofs, as if covered with ripples of clay waves, and the minarets of numerous mosques - all this, coupled with a peaceful atmosphere of peace and quiet, fascinates and makes you forget about everything in the world. There is almost no greenery in Yazd, no loving couples and noisy companies. In Yazd there is only Yazd, and that is quite enough. The only noisy place is the city market. Long rows with a variety of goods, mostly local or Chinese, bright showcases of jewelry stores and colorful fabrics suspended from ceiling beams - all this is diluted with an atmosphere of purely oriental flavor. Many residents of Yazd come to the market not so much to buy as to communicate, exchange news, or simply relax, sitting near the benches and drinking tea with a bite of sugar. Sellers bargain with pleasure, but, surprisingly, they do not deceive or cheat. Meanwhile, in Iran this would not be difficult. The huge number of bills with five-digit numbers and the double counting system are all terribly confusing. Officially, payments are made in rials, but, as a rule, they are calculated in virtual tomans. One toman is equal to ten rials. Sometimes merchants try to help by quoting the price not in tomans, but in rials, and thus further confuse the situation. The easiest way to pay is to trust the seller and give him a pile of bills. Let him figure it out himself!
There is only one museum dedicated to water in Yazd. In it you can see real ganat, huge clay amphorae, leather wineskins and cisterns. The director of the museum personally introduced me to the exhibition, and then said:
“Man and water are very interesting topic. They say that we became intelligent when we mastered fire. However, only by starting to build wells, canals and dams were people able to unite and create the first civilizations. In some countries there is still a shortage of clean water, so we must save it.”
“Let them save money in these countries,” I objected. - But it turns out to be unfair! There is not enough water in Iran and Africa, but they install a water meter in my apartment.”
The museum director laughed out loud and agreed that I was right.
In the Middle Ages, Yazd attracted not only merchants, but also theologians. As a legacy from that era, several buildings of religious schools, the grandiose Amir Chakhmak complex, erected in memory of the Shiite Imam Hussein, and several large mosques. One of them, Jameh, was only ten steps from my hotel. It was built in the fifteenth century at the expense of the local community. The residents of Yazd spared no expense and invited the most famous Persian craftsmen to decorate the portal. In addition, the mosque was decorated with two forty-eight-meter minarets. Later, the techniques tested during the construction of Jameh entered the canons of Muslim architecture and were used in the construction of buildings not only in Persia, but also in Transcaucasia, Central Asia and India. Today Jameh is one of the few Shiite mosques that allows non-believers inside. However, photography during the service is strictly prohibited.

Jameh Mosque

In addition to Muslims, many Gabars live in Yazd - supporters of the ancient Persian religion of Zoroastrianism. Its founder was the prophet Zarathushtra. He was born in the middle of the first millennium BC somewhere in what is now Afghanistan and preached the doctrine that the universe is divided into two great forces: the good Vohu-Mano and the evil Ahem-Mano. The forces of good are led by the god Ahura Mazda, and the forces of evil are led by his brother Angro Manyu. Some reference books claim that Zoroastrianism is one of the first known monotheistic religions. However, it is not. Gabars believe that good and evil coexist together. They exist in every object and even in the human soul. The struggle between two invisible forces goes on forever. But, since the worship of evil is disgusting to the normal mind, Zarathushtra gave preference to Ahura Mazda. Unlike the pagan gods, Ahura Mazda is not visible. He appears only in the form of sacred fire. The Gabars revere fire so zealously that they are often called fire worshipers.
It should be noted that initially Zoroastrianism was a closed religion. Only Iranians could profess it. Moreover, among the Zoroastrians there was a caste division, although not as strict as in India. Zarathushtra taught his followers to do only good deeds, but at the beginning of our era, another prophet Mani came to the conclusion that the real world was the product of evil, and therefore preached lies and deception. In Iran itself, his teaching did not find supporters, but it became widespread in other countries and for some time competed in popularity with Christianity and Buddhism. Another preacher, Mazdak, gained the favor of the Shah and began government reforms, the goal of which was to build paradise on earth. To begin with, Mazdak decided to socialize the property of merchants and feudal lords. On the way to universal prosperity, he destroyed thousands of his opponents. The socialized lands were poorly managed. Hunger riots began there. In the end, the army moved against the reformer, and the first communist revolution ended in defeat.
At first, after the conquest of Iran, Muslim Arabs were tolerant of Zoroastrianism. But then they began to persecute non-believers, and the Gabars were forced to leave their homeland. They found refuge in Western India, where, thanks to usury and trade, they acquired considerable weight in society. In India, the Gabars are called Parsis, and they still play an active role in economic and political life. For example, Indira Gandhi's husband was a Parsi. In the 19th century, many gabar traders returned to Iran. Some of them settled in Yazd. Not far from the city in the town of Chak-Chak, where, according to legend, Princess Nikbanuh hid from the Arabs, they restored their temple and place of fire worship. In Yazd itself, two Towers of Silence were built - a kind of Zoroastrian cemeteries. Religion forbids the Gabars from desecrating the earth and fire with the flesh of the dead, so the bodies of the dead were taken to the towers to be torn to pieces by the birds. After the Islamic Revolution, this ritual was banned. Now the dead are buried in the ground, carefully wrapped in a special cloth.
About seventy years ago, another Ateshkadeh temple was restored in the center of Yazd. Its main attraction is the sacred fire, lit in the 5th century and since then never extinguished. But getting into this temple was not an easy task. It is surrounded by a fairly high wall, from behind which only the tops of the pine trees peek out. The front gate is tightly closed. Iranians passing by advised us to come on another day and at another time. Then supposedly the temple will be opened. However, I was clearly unlucky. Both tomorrow and the day after tomorrow the gates were locked. I decided to find some other entrance and walked around the perimeter of the wall. On the opposite side, right behind the construction site unfolding in the courtyards, there really was a gate. But as soon as I walked inside, a guard stood next to me. He shook his head sadly, took me by the hand and led me through a small park, beyond which opened up a spacious courtyard and a pond. As it turned out later, I entered the unit temple complex, accessible only to religious believers.

Ateshkadeh - temple of fire worshipers in Yazd

Sacred fire

Ateshkadeh itself looks quite modern. Inside there is a bright room hung with paintings and posters on the topic of what Zarathustra said and why. There is a chair in the corner. An ancient old man sleeps in it. Next to it is a counter with simple souvenirs, religious brochures and CDs. The old man opens his eyes, looks without any interest at the foreigner who has entered, nods when I point to my camera, and immediately closes them again. In one of the niches behind the glass a bright flame is clearly visible. This is the sacred fire. I take a few photos and go outside. A group of Chinese are already standing there, apologetically explaining something to the guard. They also entered through the back gate. The Forbidden fruit is sweet.
I spent about a week in Yazd before I found the strength to leave this city. Having received the payment, the hotel owner rolled out a minibus from the garage and took me to the airport completely free of charge. There were no problems with tickets to Bandar Abbas, the final southern point of my journey. The small Canadian plane quickly filled with people. I got a place in the back.
The steward was arguing with someone for a long time at the gangway. I looked out the window and burst out laughing. A man in traditional trousers stood on the runway. He was holding a goat on a leash. The man gesticulated fiercely, trying to get on board with the animal. But the steward was relentless. Finally, several administrators came running from the airport building at once. They carefully studied the tickets provided by the man, argued a little among themselves and decided to take the goat away from the plane. The man shook his head sadly, gave them the rope and went up into the salon. The administrators and the goat returned. When the plane took off, all the seats were occupied, except for one, the one next to me. As I understand it, the goat was supposed to sit on it.

Clay walls of Yazd

Adobe (kagel) - material for construction

The flight did not last long. Bandar Abbas greeted us with dark leaden skies and sweltering heat. A crowd of taxi drivers was waiting for passengers right next to the ramp. My personality aroused an unhealthy interest in them. Someone even grabbed my clothes, trying to explain something. Moreover, many taxi drivers spoke good English. But I managed to hire a non-English speaking driver. He just shoved a business card into my hands guest house in the city center, picked up my backpack and showed the price on his fingers - six thousand tomans. That's a little over six dollars. It seems to be quite cheap, but not for a provincial Persian town. While we were driving to the guest house, the driver tried to engage in dialogue with me a couple of times. First in Persian. Then in Arabic. Of all the phrases spoken to me, I only understood the words “Iran” and “Islam.” When he once again asked me a question, I answered him in Belarusian:
“It’s good for you in Iran. A completely normal country."
The taxi driver nodded and didn’t ask anything else.
The main and only attraction of Bandar Abbas is the largest port in the country. It receives heavy cargo ships, oil tankers, fishing seiners and high-speed tourist ferries. Slightly away from the main docks there is a pier where you can see many traditional wooden boats. They are still used by fishermen, small traders and residents of coastal islands. Most big Island Qeshm is a free trade zone. From there, Iranian shuttles deliver imported goods to Bandar Abbas - clothing, children's toys, car parts, photo and video equipment. All this is available in abundance in local stores.
There are many foreigners in Bandar Abbas. Pakistanis, Turks, Armenians come here for trade or recreation, but Arabs from the Persian Gulf countries are especially common. The indigenous people of Bandar Abbas are also Arabs by origin. On the streets, Arabic speech can be heard almost everywhere. Persians treat their Arab compatriots with some caution. They are believed to be born greedy. I was partially convinced of the correctness of this judgment when the owner of the guest house asked three times more than usual for a room without amenities.
There was a small hotel nearby. The rooms and prices there turned out to be more reasonable. But the owner, a gray-haired Afghan who spoke a little Russian, had to disappoint - all the places were occupied or booked. I left my backpack with him and went to look for another hotel. Pretty soon the midday heat forced me to turn into a cafe where the air conditioning was working. A middle-aged man sat down at my table and introduced himself as a businessman from Tehran. He came to Bandar Abbas to pick up a new Japanese car, which was delivered to him from Dubai. We chatted a bit, drank some non-alcoholic beer, and finally the businessman said:
“Today I am returning home. There’s nothing interesting here, so I can take it back to Yazd.”
I agreed. But before picking up my backpack from the hotel and setting off on a long journey, we went to the countryside wild beach. Clean White sand, a few lonely palm trees and the endless expanse of the sea. That's how he is Persian Gulf. A cheerful company, including women, was sitting under the palm trees. It looked like they were having a picnic. I asked a new acquaintance whether it would be polite to go into the water naked in front of the ladies. He nodded in agreement, although he did not dare to swim himself. The company under the palm trees hooted in unison when I ran into the salt water, but soon switched to her own affairs and lost all interest in me.
Already in the evening of the same day I was again in Yazd. The businessman drove me all the way to the hotel, handed me a business card in Persian as a farewell and wished me a successful continuation of the trip. The receptionist was not at all surprised to see a recently moved-out guest in front of him. Having received the keys to the room, I went up to the restaurant on the roof of the hotel and ordered roast camel meat for dinner. The pink sun slowly descended over the roofs of the old city. So it was today, so it will be tomorrow. Every day is like hundreds of years ago.

Dmitry Samokhvalov

Messages

• Airfare within Iran is relatively low, and there are airports in almost all Iranian cities. Iranian trains are comfortable, but railways there are relatively few in the country and tickets should be booked as early as possible. But the whole country is entangled in a network bus routes. The prices for intercity bus travel are ridiculous, and at the same time you will be provided with good service and the schedule is usually also respected.
  Finally, you can simply rent a car with a driver for several hours, or even days - here the cost of services will depend solely on your bargaining ability.

  Within cities, public transport is not developed (although in Tehran you will find a very modern and convenient metro). It is best for a foreigner to stop a taxi on the street (every third car acts as a taxi, sometimes without any identification marks) and say the word “darbast” - in this case, the driver will not pick up other passengers along the way and will take you exactly to your destination . “Darbast” will cost more than a regular taxi (as much as 4 – 5 USD). If you want to save money, catch a car on the side of the road, shouting out the window of passing cars at your final destination (or rather, the square or street closest to it). A taxi, which can carry 4 passengers at a time, in this case plays the role of a minibus, going to a certain point and dropping off people as needed.

  Gregory

  Is it necessary to order tickets for intercity buses in advance? Or this can be simply and quickly resolved on the spot (not on Novruz, of course)

  I want to add. In the metro (in Tehran) there are separate carriages, separate for men and women. It's easy to see where people gather. And by taxi. Sometimes Iranian taxi drivers do not know the area where you need to go. It is better to print out the address at the hotel (in English) and ask the manager to translate it into Farsi. Then the driver will easily find the road and place. And then he’ll ask the locals... it’s funny we once circled around Ekbatan... :)

  Yes, you are absolutly right. When a whole family (a young husband and wife, two children and an elderly woman) entered our “men’s” 🙂 carriage, no one paid much attention. It’s an everyday matter... 🙂 And by the way, metro fares are very low.

  In Tehran there is a very convenient system high-speed buses (BiArti). Moving along specially designated lanes, they rush past cars stuck in traffic jams. Very convenient, sometimes much faster than taking a taxi. Fast as the metro, but you can admire Tehran (so multifaceted!) from the window. True, during rush hours some routes are overcrowded.

  Gregory

  Explain the situation, whether there are direct buses Kashan-Hamedan and Isfahan-Hamedan. I would like to add a view of Hamedan and the Ali Sadr caves to the standard route Tehran-Kashan-Isfahan-Yazd-Shiraz. Maybe include something else at the same time. It is not clear how to do this optimally. Do not offer taxis.

  Georgiy

  Is it possible to buy a plane ticket from Tehran to Isfahan and vice versa on the day of departure or the day before?

  Nikolay

  Good afternoon, I have a question. I’m planning a trip to Armenia in the summer; I would also like to visit the legendary Tabriz and spend a few days on it. Is it possible to cross the border on foot in Meghri and take some kind of transport to get to Tabriz? Spend a few days in Tabriz and buy a bus ticket at the bus station to go to Yerevan. How is the bus service to Yerevan carried out, how often do the buses run and approximately how much can they cost? Thank you in advance

  Good afternoon
  Is it possible to see the bus schedule in Iran? We plan to travel along the route Tehran-Isfahan, Isfahan-Shiraz, Shiraz-Yazd, Yazd-Tehran.
  In addition, you are interested in information about the fare payment system in public transport Tehran, as well as public transport that can be used to get from the airport to the city at night.
  Thanks in advance for your answer.

  Alexander

  Hello! Please tell me, is the current cost of tickets from Tabriz to Yerevan known?

  We are going to visit Iran, there are two options for flights, taking into account the fact that we want to fly there without luggage, and back, probably with luggage.

  1. Moscow - Tehran, Tehran - Moscow. Cons: they charge extra money for luggage, quite significant ones at that; flights with long layovers, if you don’t take into account Aeroflot flights, the cost of which is very high. Pros: everything is simple and clear.
  2. Moscow - Tehran, Yerevan - Moscow. Pros: Aeroflot flies from Yerevan, and flights are cheap, luggage is allowed. In general, tickets are significantly cheaper than in option 1. You can visit Tabriz along the way. Cons: additional time to travel to Tabriz and Yerevan (and there is not as much of it as we would like), it is unclear how much the bus to Yerevan costs. If it’s the same 25,000 drams per person, then the economic sense of flying from Yerevan is lost (however, the aesthetic one remains, although I’m not sure that there will still be strength left after Iran =)).

  Catherine

  Good day.
  Please tell me if there are buses (and how often) from Tehran to Rasht
  And from Rasht to Tabriz?
  And on airplanes. Is there a direct flight from Tabriz to Shiraz and if so, on what days?
  Thank you in advance

  Maksim

  Hello!
  Please tell me about the Kashan-Tehran buses,
  Kashan-Yazd, Shiraz-Isfahan. Schedule and travel time.

  Tatiana

  Can you recommend private transport companies in Tehran that provide a bus with a driver to transport a group of 15 people for several days?

  Good day! I'm flying to Tehran without a return ticket. I am planning to leave Iran by bus from Tabriz to Yerevan. How can I provide proof at the airport that I am leaving Iran through a third country. Is it possible to buy a ticket online?

  Good evening. We plan to travel around Iran by bus: Tehran-Isfahan-Yazd-Shiraz. But I would like to go back to Tehran by plane to save time. Tell me where to get information about which stations to leave, where to look up the flight schedule, and, if possible, make a booking. Thank you

  Thank you. I am interested in a specific date: I will need 2 tickets from Shiraz to Tehran for November 1, 2018, preferably in the afternoon or evening. Since the return ticket is on November 2 at 6 am, I think it’s better to return to Tehran on the eve. Please clarify how you can book tickets so that you can fly on November 1st with a 100% guarantee? For buses, I think there is no need to book in advance; you can already buy them on the spot. Thank you, I look forward to information from you.

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Yazd is considered one of the most vibrant and charismatic cities. It has the status of the administrative center of the province of the same name and is located in the center of the country, with a number of interesting attractions, including traditional oriental bazaars and wind towers - “badgir”. In addition, it is famous for its exquisite architecture and ample shopping opportunities, allowing shopping enthusiasts to satisfy their most desired needs.

Peculiarities

In terms of its structure and technological equipment, Yazd can be called a unique city. Modern buildings and wide boulevards are combined here with ancient houses, and the role of air conditioners is often played by the so-called “badgirs” - ventilation pipes that provide cooling of the air in houses. At the same time, the city has a well-developed infrastructure, high-tech communications are used, there are factories for the production of silk, which was in great demand among foreign traders back in the days of Marco Polo, as well as educational, cultural and administrative institutions. Comfortable hotels with all amenities have been built for guests, transport connection, there are museums and picturesque parks where you can have a fun time getting acquainted with the traditions and history of Iran or strolling along the green alleys. Ethnic composition represented by Persians, Kurds, Azerbaijanis and representatives of other nationalities. The main religion is Zoroastrianism.

general information

The area of ​​Yazd is small and amounts to several tens of square meters. km, with a population of over 500 thousand people. Local time ahead of Moscow by half an hour in winter and 1.5 hours in summer. Time zone UTC+3:30 and UTC+4:30 in the summer.

A brief excursion into history

The first mention of the city dates back to 3 thousand years before the beginning of our era, when it was called Isatis and belonged to the ancient eastern state Mussel. Due to its geographical location, in the very heart of Iran, historically, Yazd was away from many wars and hardships that shook these lands, and in the most turbulent times, sciences and crafts flourished here, which have survived to this day. In ancient times, numerous dervish schools called “khanakas” existed in these places, and Yazd was considered the last stronghold of Persia. Meanwhile, Yazd was destroyed several times and also experienced many difficult periods. During the era of Genghis Khan, many outstanding poets, artists, and scientists hid in the city from persecution. In the Middle Ages, the great traveler Marco Polo visited here and told in his stories about the wonderful silks that he saw in the local markets. Interestingly, the appearance of the old Yazd district has essentially not changed after hundreds of years, and according to UNESCO, it is one of the most unique architectural sites in the world.

Climate

The climatic conditions in the province are considered perhaps the driest in all of Iran. Precipitation is very rare here, so from time immemorial “grenades” were built in the region, which were underground channels for water. Now they have been replaced by reservoirs and wells equipped with modern equipment. In the summer months, the heat in the city sometimes reaches +40 degrees, but in winter it can drop to zero or below. It is better to visit the provincial capital in early spring and late autumn, when it is warm and dry, but there is no sweltering heat.

How to get there

The best option for the route to Yazd is to fly to, and from there on local airlines to the airport of the provincial capital. In addition, the city is connected by rail and bus services to other regions and settlements countries.

Transport

The most common means of transportation within the city limits are taxis, although the territory of the Old Town can be explored on foot.

Attractions and entertainment

The ancient district of Yazd is considered the main historical site here. The appearance of the overwhelming majority of buildings has not changed at all over the centuries, and their dark brown walls, made of sun-baked adobe bricks and the long-outdated designs of wind towers - “bagdirs” on the roofs of houses, serve as a kind of symbol of bygone eras. Climbing up, you can survey the city and see the endless desert landscapes surrounding it. Among the most striking architectural structures of Yazd, the Zoroastrian temple of Atashkade stands out, which is annually visited by representatives of this religion from all over the world. The temple's sacred fire, located in the central hall, has been maintained since 470.

Other religious attractions include the Great Friday Mosque with its library containing ancient manuscripts, and the Amir Chakhmagh Mosque, located directly opposite the Water Museum, where inquisitive tourists can learn a lot about the water supply system that operates here in different years and to this day. Also notable are the Assembly House, the Tower of Wind, the Mozaffar Garden, the Shamsia Madrasah, the Dovazdeh-Imam mausoleum and the soldiers' cemetery dedicated to the Iranians who died during the war with Iraq. Some distance from the city limits, in the middle of the desert, lies the ancient religious complex of Amir Chakmak, and not far from it are the Zoroastrian towers of silence of Dakmeh. There are several other archaeological complexes in the vicinity of the city, which can be reached by car or by excursion bus.

Kitchen

Many restaurants and cafes in Yazd are located in ancient buildings with rich history, therefore, staying in them is complemented by a feeling of the indescribable spirit of antiquity. One of them is the Hammam-e Khan restaurant, located in the premises of the old hammam. Vaulted ceilings, trickling water in the baths and elaborate wall ceramics add a dose of romanticism to the dining experience. Many establishments have very advantageous locations and have excellent views from their windows, directly on the main city attractions. Lovers of sweets should definitely check out the specialized confectionery on Jomhuriye Eslami Boulevard or Amiran Paludeh, where guests are invited to try delicious sherbet.

Shopping

The main places for shopping in Yazd are the bazaars of the Old City. Numerous counters display wonderful carpets, with lower prices compared to Tehran and popular tourist centers of Iran, embossed and leather goods, all kinds of spices, sweets and souvenirs. The famous Yazd silks, from which scarves, bedspreads and all kinds of light clothing are woven, deserve special attention.

Yazd annually attracts thousands of travelers, captivating them with its oriental spontaneity, the beauty of its architecture, and its rich cultural and historical heritage. A stay in this city allows guests to appreciate many of its advantages and get to know this amazing country better.

| Yazd - the center of Zoroastrianism and a unique city in Iran

Yazd - the center of Zoroastrianism and a unique city in Iran

400 km northeast of Shiraz (500 km southeast of Tehran), at an altitude of 1215 m above sea level, lies the center of the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism, which dominated Persia before the advent of Islam - Yazd. The city is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on the planet. Surrounded by the Shir-Kuh mountain ranges and a whole network of fortifications, the city only in 642 AD. e. was captured by the Arabs, but continued to be an important point on the caravan routes from India to Central Asia. At the end of the 20th century. UNESCO recognized Yazd as the city with the second oldest urban development in the world.

Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful and original cities in Iran. It's surprising how few tourists come here compared to Isfahan and Shiraz. All the more pleasant for the few who came to Yazd. It is this city that is the center of Zoroastrianism (fire worship), and it is here that every third citizen professes this ancient belief in the greatness of fire. Actually, the very name of the city Yazd (Yazdan) is translated as “Divine”. Yazd saw such famous travelers as Mark Polo and Afanasy Nikitin.

Sights of Yazd

The main attraction of Yazd is the city itself and its unique architecture. For centuries, local houses were built in the form of wind towers "bad-gears" with round domes and a unique system of passive ventilation, and were also equipped with ingenious devices for collecting water, which was reflected in the appearance of the city.

The main attractions are the Doulat Tower (height 33 m), Dakhme or Kale-e Hamusha (Towers of Silence, burial places according to the Zoroastrian rite), the remains of urban defensive walls XII-XIV centuries, the “tower of fire” Atashkade, on which an unquenchable fire has been burning for 3 thousand years, the Zoroastrian shrines of Kale-ye Asadan (“Fortress of Lions”) and Chak-Chak (52 km north of Yazd), the Amir-Mosque Chakhmak (Jome, XIV century) is actually a whole historical complex consisting of a mosque, public baths, a hotel, a mausoleum, three reservoirs and a portal of one of the bazaars of Yazd, the burial mosque of Mahbare-e Davazda-Imam (“Shrine of the Twelve Imams”), Friday Jameh Mosque (1324-1364, one of the highest in the country), the mosque and mausoleum of Sayed Ron ad-Din (XIV century), the huge domes of the House of Water, the Doulat-Abad garden, the Market Gate with two small minarets, "Alexander's Prison" Zendan-e Iskander (a strange round structure whose walls are covered with inscriptions with the names of all Shiite imams), the Yazd Museum (Aine-va-Roushani) in the archaeological complex "Mirror Palace", the Natural History Museum of the city department of education and the historical complex of Bak -e Doulat.

And, of course, traditional oriental bazaars, and there are no less than 12 of them in Yazd, among which the most popular are Bazaar-e Khan, Jewelry Bazaar and Panje-Ali Bazaar. Yazd probably the best place in the country to buy silk, cashmere, brocade and taffeta, as well as all kinds of textile products, which is not surprising: it is the weaving industry that has provided the city with prosperity for many centuries.

Walking along the roofs of the Old City in Yazd is a favorite pastime of the few independent tourists traveling through central Iran. With rare exceptions, the buildings are located so close to each other that a walk along the roofs can easily be replaced by a promenade along the narrow streets. Be careful when climbing the clay stairs; Most houses and abandoned buildings are in disrepair, and you should step on the roofs with caution.

For a walk around the Old Town it is better to hire local guide, which will not only tell you about the history of the place, but will also guide you through secret passages and give you the opportunity to look at the life of the local population, inviting you into the house. Finding an escort will not be difficult; guides offer their services at the bus and train stations.

How to get to Yazd

Yazd is located 300 kilometers southeast of Esfahan, 440 kilometers northeast of Shiraz and 630 kilometers southeast of Tehran. The most convenient way to get to the clay city is by regular buses that run daily from Esfahan, Shiraz and Tehran to Yazd. The bus terminal is located 10 kilometers southwest of the city center, near the airport. You can get to the station by taxi or minibus from Beheshti and Azadi squares; the fare is about 10,000 IRR (~$1.0). It is best to purchase tickets for intercity routes at travel agencies rather than at the train station; the markup is minimal, but the staff will advise best routes transfers and help organize transfers.

A train service connects Yazd with Tehran. Trains run three times a day through Kashan, Qom and Bandar Abbas; travel time is about eight hours, depending on the class of train. From Tehran, flights depart at 20:35 and 22:20. The fare starts from 50,000 IRR (~$5.0) per person one way.

Yazd Province International Airport, located 10 kilometers from the central part of the city, receives several flights daily from Tehran. The flight time from the capital of Iran to Yazd is 70 minutes; flights operate twice a day. Several times a week they operate from Yazd to Damascus and Dubai.

Yazd from A to Z: map, hotels, attractions, restaurants, entertainment. Shopping, shops. Photos, videos and reviews about Yazd.

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The most charismatic city of Iran, ancient Yazd is located exactly in the center of the country, almost equidistant from Isfahan, Kerman and Shiraz. There is everything here to feel like you are on another planet: entire forests of wind towers - “badgirs”, thanks to complex system whirlwinds delivering fresh air to houses languishing in the summer heat, the ancient Zoroastrian temple, the sacred fire of which has been maintained unquenchable for 15 centuries, and the labyrinth of narrow streets of the old city, where the best silk fabrics in the world are born in weaving workshops, which once captured the imagination of Marco Polo himself. You can spend the night here in one of the unusual hotels: ancient residential buildings with all their centuries-old attributes have been converted into inns in Yazd, and drink a cup of morning coffee in the pleasant company of a believing Zoroastrian who will tell you that heaven is hot, but hell is, on the contrary, icy (as we, the residents, cold Moscow, we agree one hundred percent). Among other things, Yazd is the second oldest city of mankind, inhabited to this day - the first mention of the settlement dates back to the 3rd millennium BC. e.

How to get to Yazd

Like most cities in Iran, Yazd has its own airport that accepts international and domestic flights. The most convenient way to get to Yazd is through Tehran on Aeroflot or IranAir flights from Moscow Sheremetyevo. At least two planes depart from Tehran to Yazd every day; travel time is a little over an hour. To get from the airport to the center of Yazd, take a taxi (about 6-10 EUR). Prices on the page are as of October 2018.

Search for air tickets to Tehran (the nearest airport to Yazd)

By train

Yazd can also be reached by train, both from Tehran and from other cities in the country. The Tehran-Yazd train departs every evening, the journey takes about 6 hours, the ticket price ranges from 9 EUR in a six-seater compartment to 12 EUR in a comfortable carriage (we recommend the second option).

By bus

In addition, you can arrive in Yazd by intercity express bus from any city in Iran. We remind you that it is better to take the “super” class with a “snack” included in the price and air conditioning. By the way, the Tehran-Yazd road is of excellent quality, and such a trip can be classified as very pleasant.

Transport in the city

The old town of Yazd can easily be explored on foot. For more long trips you can use taxi services: 4000-6000 IRR for an individual trip around specified address and 1000-2000 IRR for the opportunity to get into a collective car and get out where necessary, as the taxi moves. There are also motorcycle taxi drivers in Yazd who will rush you through the city streets with a whistle in their ears. Such a trip will cost even less, but will give you a lot of impressions!

Cuisine and restaurants of Yazd

Yazd offers travelers the rare opportunity to dine in ancient buildings converted into restaurants. One of the most popular establishments is the Hammam-e Khan restaurant, as you might guess, located in the premises of the old hammam. Here you can enjoy excellent Persian cuisine under the steady swaying of the water in the baths, under the canopy of vaulted ceilings and surrounded by skillful wall ceramics. In addition, almost every Yazd restaurant offers a view of one or another landmark as a free addition to the meal, for example, the Friday Mosque (Marco Polo restaurant), Old city(“Malek-o Tozhar”) or old manor with a magnificent garden (“Mozaffar”).

You can try delicious sweets and cakes in a specialized confectionery shop on Jomhuriye Eslami Boulevard - the sweet specialists work right in front of you and, best of all, allow you to try the result of their labors.

Stop by Amiran Paludeh and enjoy a bowl of Iranian sherbet - paludeh made from rice flour, fruit pulp and rose water (IRR 1,500 per bowl).

Maps of Yazd

Shopping and shops

The main shopping location in Yazd is the bazaars of the old city. Here you can see and buy wonderful carpets (and at more low prices than in Tehran and other popular tourist cities in the country), embossed and leather goods, spices, sweets and souvenirs. Pay attention to the Yazd silks, called “tirma” here. You can purchase pieces of fabric or ready-made products - from headscarves to bedspreads.

Entertainment and attractions in Yazd

The old city of Yazd is one big attraction. The appearance of most of the buildings here has not changed for centuries: dark brown walls of buildings made of sun-baked raw bricks and otherworldly structures of wind towers-bagdirs on each roof. Climbing onto the roof of one of the buildings open to the public, you can see the endless expanses of the desert surrounding Yazd on all sides.

The Zoroastrian temple of Atashkade is a place of pilgrimage for followers of this religion from all over the world. The temple's sacred fire has been maintained since 470; it can be seen through a small window in the central hall.

The Water Museum presents an interesting exhibition telling about the ancient method of delivering water to the city through underground tunnels. The art of constructing such a water supply system dates back more than two thousand years!

The Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, which were used, according to Zoroastrian beliefs, to allow the body of the deceased to naturally decay in the air, ceased to serve their purpose only in the 60s of the 20th century.

The Zoroastrian Towers of Silence are located a short distance from the city and are easily accessible by taxi. According to the beliefs of Zoroastrians, the body of the deceased should naturally decay in the air - therefore the dead were taken to remote tower-type structures, where they were left on the upper platform to be devoured by birds of prey. By the way, the towers have not been used since the 60s of the 20th century.

To enjoy the magnificent Islamic architecture, go see the Friday Mosque, Hazire and Amir Shakmah Mosques.

Not far from the Amir Shakmah Mosque there is a complex of buildings of the same name, from the top of which you can see Yazd from an almost bird's eye view.

Don't miss the most beautiful Kazhar house with a 150-year history - Khan-e Lari. Here you can see some of the best preserved wind towers, graceful arched passages, alcoves and traditional doors.

Prices on the page are as of October 2018.