Island of Pag. Desert story. Island of Pag Croatia Entertainment and relaxation on the island of Pag

The island of Pag is reminiscent of Italian films from the 1950s. The ideal location for shooting black-and-white films in the style of Antonioni is a long, sparsely populated rocky island in brown tones, with endless desert landscapes stretching beyond the horizon. The Adriatic Sea near the steel-colored island. When a storm gathers in the sky, Pag turns into the most dramatic place in all of Croatia. Pag is made up of karst rocks reminiscent of a lunar landscape, two mountain ranges, sparse bushes and about a dozen villages.

Strictly speaking, Pag is no longer an isolated island - it is connected to the mainland by a bridge. However, culturally and industrially it is a completely independent and separate entity. The islanders cultivate the poor soil and make homemade white wine, Shutsu. The hardy local sheep are fed medicinal salted herbs, which gives their milk an extraordinary taste. Page cheese is made from this milk. The skillful page lace is famous far beyond the country's borders. Placed in a frame, it decorates many houses in Croatia.

But Pag is not only about ancient traditions and high culture. The northern port of Novalja is one of the most carefree and lively resorts in Croatia. The neighboring Zrce beach is known to all true connoisseurs of club holidays.

Come to Croatia! Find profitable ones

At first the island of Pag was inhabited by Illyrians. In the 1st century BC e. the Romans took possession of it. They built fortresses and aqueducts. The Slavs settled in the vicinity of Novalja in the 7th century. and began to build churches and basilicas. In the 11th century salt production began to develop. As a result, salt became the cause of conflict between the merchants of Pag, Zadar and Rab. In 1409, Venice bought the island, along with Zadar and the rest of Dalmatia. Subsequent generations saw not only Venetians on their land, but also Austrians, French, Austrians again, and during the Second World War, German and Italian occupiers.

City of Pag

The old town of Pag is located on a narrow strip of land between sun-drenched hills; to the east of it lies a blue bay, and to the west are shimmering salt marshes. The neat streets and rugged stone buildings create a captivating atmosphere. Simple everyday life passes right before your eyes - here women weave lace, sitting on stools outside the house. The square, lined with beautiful white marble, serves as a place for townspeople to socialize. There are pebble beaches near the city.

The construction of the city began thanks to the flourishing of salt production at the beginning of the 15th century, since the neighboring Stari Grad could no longer accommodate the ever-growing population. The Venetian rulers invited the best builder of his time, Juraj Dalmatian. The foundation stone of Pag was laid in 1443. In accordance with the latest trends of the century in the field of urban design, the main and secondary streets were laid at right angles and led to the four city gates. In the center of Pag there is a square on which stands the cathedral, the prince's palace and the unfinished bishop's palace. In 1499 Dalmatian began working on the city walls, but only the northern part with the remains of the castle remained.

Attractions

Lace Museum

This wonderful museum now occupies the superbly restored building of the princely palace, built according to the design of Juraj Dalmatinets.

Exhibitions focus on the history of lace making on Pag and its significance for the settlement. They are lovingly illustrated with photographs and descriptions.

Church of St. Maria

Gothic Church of St. Maria, which was built by the same Juraj Dalmatian, is in perfect harmony with the modest buildings surrounding it. The lunette above the portal is decorated with images of the Virgin Mary and the women of Pag in medieval blouses and headdresses, as well as two rows of unfinished figures of saints. The interior was completed in the 16th century, and in the 18th century. a baroque ceiling ornament was added to it.

Salt Museum

The new museum is located across the bridge, among the remains of what was once ancient Stari Grad (very little remains), occupying the building of a former salt barn. Exhibitions accompanied by photographs tell the history of salt mining on the island of Pag.

Festivals and events

The Page Carnival takes place on the last day of July, providing tourists with an excellent chance to see a traditional kolo (energetic Slavic round dance) and appreciate the elaborate traditional page costume. The main square is filled with dancers and musicians, and theater actors perform the folk play Paska robinja (The Slave of Pag).

Where to stay

Most of the hotels are scattered along the bay west of the town of Pag. They are closed between October and March.

Travel agencies will help you find private accommodation. Women waiting for visitors at the bus station offer sobe (rooms). Many rooms and apartments are located in houses across the bridge.

The newly renovated hotel is located in a beautiful location by the beach, just steps from the old town. The rooms are elegant and stylish. Excellent wellness center.

The campsite is located by a magnificent bay with a pebble beach, approximately halfway between Pag and Novalja, near the port of Šimuni. All buses traveling around the island stop here. Caravans (from €30) are well thought out. In the off-season and low season, prices are very low.

Modern rooms next to the bus stop. On the ground floor there is a konoba. All rooms are spacious, with wooden floors, beautifully yet simply furnished, with a wardrobe and a bathroom.

A new four-star hotel with spacious and well-equipped rooms - all with a refrigerator, modern furniture and a large bathroom; Top floor rooms offer stunning views of the island and bay. But the pool is small, unfortunately.

Where to eat

Once you have already reached the island of Pag, it would not be very polite not to try the Pag cheese.

A good and very popular restaurant with a small front terrace overlooking the wet salt marshes, and another one covered in shade. The signature dish is page lamb. You can choose fresh fish cooked in wine and herbs.

An attractive traditional konoba just outside the city walls is famous for its well-cooked seafood (lobster, bivalves, octopus). Tables are arranged in a pretty courtyard.

A wonderful restaurant with an inexpensive menu, friendly service and solid fish and meat dishes. Plus an excellent view of the surrounding area.

People who cook for themselves can buy fruit, vegetables and local cheese at the daily market. You will find more complex semi-finished products in the Konzum supermarket.

Where to drink and have fun

Pag is a sleepy town with a barely noticeable club scene. However, in the summer it becomes much busier.

The new club just over the bridge is the only dance floor in town. The program is varied; you can hear R&B, house and hits from the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Outside there is a terrace for smokers.

Page souvenirs are the most special in all of Croatia. It would be a shame to leave the island without buying page lace. Prices are quite low, and the lace trade helps keep the tradition alive. A small circle or star about 10cm in diameter costs about 125KN, but takes a good 24 hours to work on. If you walk along the streets of King Tomislav or King Dmitry Zvonimir, you can buy weaving directly from lacemakers, almost all of them have fixed prices.

Page cheese is not easy to find, although you can probably buy it at the morning market. If you're unlucky, look for homemade signs with the inscription Paski Sir, which are placed near houses somewhere on a remote road. They ask for about 130KN per kilogram.

Beach clubs

Despite the atmosphere of general peace that reigns on the island, every summer Pag is rocked by unbridled parties.

About half east of Novalja, where you'll find three large clubs and a scattering of smaller bars. Zrce attracts mainstream DJs - don't expect much underground. The clubs are located right on the beach (this is how Zrce differs from Ibiza, with which it is often compared).

The most sophisticated is the Kalypso club at the northern end of the beach, with beautiful design, countless bars and palm trees, one with the bay itself. During the day you can relax on the wonderful sofas and mattresses, and after dark, relax with deep house music played by DJs for older people. The incredibly bright Aquarius (www.aquarius.hr) is a huge space with stylish alcoves and an unglazed area. In 2010, stars such as Roger Sanchez and Benny Benassi performed here. The attractive Papaya Club (www.papaya.com.hr) is built on terraces, one of which houses the main dance floor. A motley crowd gathers here. The music can be anything, however, for regular life-loving visitors, trance super DJs played here, including Tiesto and Paul van Dyk. All clubs open at the end of June and close by mid-September. Entrance fees vary depending on the program - at the beginning of the season, admission to parties is usually free, but by mid-August a ticket can already cost €35.

Zrce Beach itself is a crescent of pebbles, stretching along a sheltered bay for 1 km in length. There are no trees here at all, so rent a sun umbrella. The water is excellent, although you will have to endure the noise of jet skis (they are limited to certain areas). From Zrce there is a nice view of the scorched eastern Pag, behind which the mainland mountains rise. Parking costs 5KN per hour.

This travel agency organizes excursions around the island and trips to national parks, including Paklenica. Reservation of rooms and rooms. Post office (Antuna Simica; opening hours: 8.00-20.00 Mon-Fri, until 14.00 Sat)

Modern office, decent color map of the city, on which even local beaches are marked.

Novalja

In the midst of a realm of tranquil resorts, Novalja defies - with enthusiasm - the local trend, offering the most vibrant club scene you can find in Croatia. The cultural program is limited to fiery evening parties on the nearby Zrce beach; There are no historical sights in the city. Although it must be said that the city embankment is a very beautiful place for walking, and there are wonderful beaches nearby.

The Croatian island of Pag, stretching 60 km along the Adriatic coast, is famous for its Pag cheese and lace. Holidays on Pag are especially popular among the residents of Croatia themselves, as well as among European youth.

The largest settlements on the island are Pag, Novalja, Stara Novalja, Lun and Caska. The island is connected to the mainland on the south side by a bridge through which you can get to Zadar and Rijeka, and on the north side by a ferry crossing. The nearest international airport is in the city of Zadar.

Sights of Pag

Attractions that can be seen in the city of Pag include: the Collegiate Church, built in the 16th century, the Church of St. Margaret, the Church of St. George from the 16th century, the Duke's Palace. In the ancient town of Novalja, guests can visit the city museum with its ethnographic collection, archaeological exhibits and works of art by Croatian artists.

Festivals and entertainment

For many years, a traditional holiday has been the Winter Carnival in the city of Pag. Preceding the spring fast, this holiday is marked by three days of festivities in the central square and a carnival procession.

The main goal of the Summer Carnival, which takes place at the end of July, is to diversify tourist life and entertain vacationers with interesting events and delicious treats.

The arts festival, which has been held in the city of Pag since 1999, has already become a tradition. The program of this cultural festival includes music concerts, theatrical performances, exhibitions and documentary films.

The island of Pag is considered the Croatian Ibiza. In the town of Novalja, on the Zrce beach, there are three clubs: Aquarius, Kalypso and Papaya, where young people from different countries have fun 24 hours a day. Every year, visitors to discos are treated to a varied program, including live performances by world-famous pop and rock performers. Hideout Festival is one of the events held in the month of July at the Papaya and Aquarius clubs. Famous DJs and bands invited to this three-day celebration of music and dance will not let numerous guests get bored.

Pag Restaurants

A holiday on the island of Pag is a great opportunity to try local delicacies and wines. When visiting various cafes and restaurants in Pag, you will definitely be offered the famous Pag cheese, made from sheep's milk and olive oil.

The Beledvir tavern in the town of Kolan, between the cities of Pag and Novalja, attracts tourists with home-cooked dishes, among which guests especially highlighted risotto and grilled seafood. Many vacationers voted Konoba Ankora the best restaurant in Novalje, noting the delicious food and pleasant service. In the city of Pag, we can recommend the Na Tale establishment; among the dishes prepared there, visitors noted fish treats.

Weather on the island of Pag for the season

Beaches of Pag

Zrce is considered the most popular beach on the island of Pag. Stretching along the coast near Novalja, this pebble beach is surrounded by forest. You can get there by bus, which runs regularly from Novalja. This vacation spot is equipped with everything necessary, including facilities for people with disabilities.

Another beach in Novalja is Sv. Duh is covered in pebbles with large shallows and a seabed lined with fine sand, making it a suitable place for families with small children. There is a football or badminton court nearby. Part of the territory is fenced off specifically for nudists.

A little east of Novalja is the popular Caska beach. It is mostly covered with sand, only the approach to the water is lined with pebbles. The seabed is characterized by a sharp transition to depth. You can get to this vacation spot by car, which you can leave in the parking lot.

South of Novalja is the pebble beach Strasko, about 1.5 km long, with convenient access to the water and a pleasant sandy bottom. The dense pine forest, which allows you to hide from the sun, and the availability of various activities for children make it suitable for a family holiday.

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Among the hundreds of islands in Croatia, Pag may not be immediately noticed. Its large, elongated shape on the map almost merges with the mainland. The very graceful Pazhsky Bridge is thrown across a narrow strait to the island. So, being in Dalmatia, getting to Pag is not difficult. We only traveled around Croatia for three days. Torn by lack of time and an urgent desire to see as much as possible, we did not miss the opportunity to visit this island - our first, but, I hope, not the last in Croatia.

Page Bridge // lavagra.livejournal.com

The first thing that strikes a visitor to Pag is its almost Martian desert landscapes. The area here is often devoid of any vegetation. Instead, yellow-brown rocks are scattered in chaotic abundance. This whole picture looks very advantageous against the backdrop of the Velebit Mountains on the Croatian mainland opposite the island.

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The first thing that interested us here was the ruins of an ancient fortress from the time the island was owned by the Venetians. These picturesque ruins are located at the very tip of a sharp promontory that juts out towards the narrow strait between Pag and the mainland.

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From here you can enjoy magnificent panoramas of the Page Bridge. This small fortress was a guard outpost of the Venetian possessions, now reminiscent of the island's turbulent history. Pag has always been on the border - either between the Venetians and the Turks, or between the Italians and Austrians, or between the Croats and Serbs.

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Now local residents are trying to lure tourists to the island with their famous Page sheep cheese, special Page lace or an original variety of white wine. I must admit, I didn’t really notice where on this deserted island vineyards grow and fat flocks of sheep graze.

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Few people now try to remember the dark pages of the past. During this short trip, I did not find out where on the island the Ustasha death camp was located during World War II, where thousands of Serbs, Jews and Gypsies were tortured. The Ustasha was the name given to the nationalist organization of Croats with extreme fascist views, which managed to seize power in these parts during the Second World War.

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Croats are trying to forget that war, where their people took an active part as ardent supporters of Hitler's Germany. For their own, even then blood enemies of the Serbs, a special type of knives was even invented - serboseks, so that the cruel executioners could kill as quickly as possible and get tired as little as possible. It seems to me that the last conflict between the Croats and Serbs after the collapse of Yugoslavia owes its cruelty precisely to that bloody and inhumane regime of the Ustasha Croats.

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By the way, during this last war in the Balkans, the island of Pag played an important connecting role between the units of the Croatian liberation army torn by the blockade. Now, universal peace reigns on Pag.

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In the main city of the island - the eponymous Pag - everything is conducive to leisurely walks under the bright sun. This cute town looks especially good from the side of the neighboring hill. It stretches along both sides of a narrow bay, gradually turning into a salt lake, where salt mining has long flourished.

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The city of Pag was designed and built more than four centuries ago and has preserved the medieval street layout, and most importantly, the spirit of that time. We saw a city of sleepy calm in the off-season with clean streets and beautiful, bright churches.

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Near the city we visited the ancient Benedictine convent of St. Margaret. Even the ruins of several buildings seemed very well-kept there. We never ceased to be amazed at this unusual cleanliness for a southern country during our entire short trip around Croatia.

There are more than 1000 islands in Croatia. And many of them are included in the ratings of the most beautiful places on Earth. We have been to many, and because of one (the island of Mljet) we even fell in love with Croatia forever.

But I’ll tell you about a non-obvious choice for a seaside holiday - about the island of Pag.

Our friends Maya and Rinaldo have an old house on the island of Pag. It’s a 4-hour drive from Zagreb and you’re in a medieval city.

Pag, an island in central Dalmatia, was described to us as a lunar landscape. Without trees, with sparse gray grass and sadly wandering sheep.

In some places this is true.

The island is located opposite Mount Velebit, from which a strong cold bura wind blows almost all year round. Because of him (and also because the Venetians selflessly cut down trees on Pag for years to build Venice), there are few trees on the island.

But we found coniferous groves, olive orchards, and lavender fields.

There are also many excellent beaches, places for diving and wakeboarding, and old white cities. Pag has the longest coastline in the Adriatic Sea - 270 kilometers.

City of Pag

We lived in the capital of the island - the city of the same name, Pag. An ancient 3-story house around the corner from the cathedral, photographs of Maya’s grandmothers and great-grandmothers, a shabby sideboard with a manual coffee grinder and cups. In the morning we went to a nearby bakery for fresh pastries, made coffee, and took an old wooden table and two chairs out into the courtyard with a medieval well. We greeted our neighbors and read old newspapers. 10 meters to the right is the central square of the city with the cathedral and souvenir shops. 20 meters to the left - the embankment with the smell of coffee and screaming seagulls.

At the beginning of June, rare tourists wandered along the embankment; locals were drilling and completing things in cafes and shops. We love to come to the seaside before or after the season. You know how a child likes to stay late in kindergarten so that he can play with all the toys alone.

In the evening we sat on the embankment, drank cold white wine, ate page cheese and looked at the water.

Photo credit: croatia-apartments-pag.com

In total, the island of Pag has two cities (Pag and Novalja), several villages (Šimuni, Kolan, Lun) and about 8 thousand inhabitants. In summer, their number increases by 5-6 times thanks to waiters, cooks, sellers, and marina (yacht parking) workers who come from the mainland of Croatia to work.

The island of Pag became a tourist destination after 1968, when a bridge was built between it and the mainland.

The season on the Croatian islands is short - from mid-June to mid-September. Although it is warm and you can swim until the end of October.

The main tourists are neighbors: Germans, Italians, Austrians, Slovenes. On Pag we also met guests from Poland, the Czech Republic, the Netherlands, and Britain. When Croatia joined the European Union in 2013, the number of European tourists began to grow faster and faster every year. Although, as friends say, modern Croatia is still far from the Yugoslav scale of tourism.

Croats are hospitable hosts. Diligent, friendly and open. Their roads are in perfect order, and the food in their restaurants is always fresh.

They are also very creative in expanding the boundaries of the tourist season, so that there is a reason to come in both March and November. Yachting, cool music festivals, gastronomic tourism, sports. In winter and early spring, many cities revived traditional carnivals. Istria became a training ground for tennis players and cycling teams. Dalmatia is a long-standing destination for cruise ships.

But let's return to Pag.

The symbols of the island are the famous Paži sheep cheese, the ancient art of lace weaving, baskotin cookies baked by the nuns of the Benedictine monastery, and Zrce beach - “Croatian Ibiza”.

In addition, the residents of Pag mine salt, produce olive oil, and supply lamb to the continent.

Lamb is generally Pag’s main food.

Photo credit: finirecepti.net.hr, petbunara.com

The ratio is as follows: for 8 thousand inhabitants of the island there are 40 thousand sheep. Maya told how the poor people of Pag used to say to their guests: “Sorry, we have almost nothing to treat you with, only baked lamb, prosciutto and cheese.” Ironic by modern standards, because these are now the most expensive products in Croatia☺.

Pazhsky cheese

Page sheep cheese is famous for its specific rich taste, since sheep eat a lot of wild aromatic herbs (sage, immortelle, fennel, cistus).

Photo credit: gligora.com

It costs more than Parmigiano Reggiano because Page sheep produce little milk. Considered the best souvenir from Croatia. Delicious.

Photo credit: facebook.com/paskasirana.hr

There are 2 main cheese factories on the island ( sirana), their cheese can also be bought in supermarkets in Zagreb:

• Paška Sirana - they have been working for 65 years and they are the ones who made Paška cheese famous

Bashkotin

Paški baškotin (Paški baškotin) is a UNESCO-protected recipe for cookies that the nuns of the Benedictine monastery of St. Margaret in the city of Pag bake in complete silence, 30 kilograms every day, for more than 300 years.

Photo credit: arhiva.nacional.hr, zadarskilist.hr

I don’t know how it was at the height of the season, but in early June there was a whole quest to buy those same cookies from the nuns. The town of Pag seems to be very small, there seems to be a sign to the Monastery of St. Margaret. But go find him in the narrow streets. This is not a large monastery that is noticeable from afar, but a small white church building among others of the same kind. All doors are closed. If you walk around the building and think, you can find a door with a bell. Call several times. And you’re almost about to leave when an unfriendly, dry nun peeps through the crack and asks sternly: “What do you want?” I say: “A little bashkotin.” She took 15 kunas, put the bag through the revolving window and disappeared. And then there's a spoiler. Mysterious bashkotin are rather tasteless large crackers. All.

Lace

I'm not a fan of such souvenirs. But Archduchess Maria Theresa was. And she kept a lacemaker from Pag at court.

Photo credit: croatia.org

It is believed that page lace art came from the Greek Mycenae. The first mentions of page lace (Paška čipka, “chipka” - this is lace in Croatian) are found in documents of the 15th century. Of course, again it could not have happened without the nuns of the Benedictine monastery. They created a lace school. And over the past 150 years they have collected a large collection of lace in the monastery.

At an exhibition in Paris in 1937, the craftsmen from Pag received a gold medal for their extremely valuable craft. Today, lace is recognized as a Croatian cultural heritage site and a UNESCO World Intangible Cultural Heritage Site.

Zrce Beach – Croatian Ibiza

We were on the most famous party beach in Croatia at the beginning of June, so there were almost no people there.

But in July-August Zrce turns into one endless dance floor. Festivals, parties, performances by world DJs.

Photo credit: zrce.com

Where to live in Pag (this is not an advertisement:)

Not far from the town of Novalja and from the party beach Zrce, we visited our friend from the Kul In culinary school, chef Nikola, who works in the winter in the city of Bjelovar in central Croatia, 70 km from Zagreb. And in the summer - in the restaurant of the small hotel complex Barbati on Pag, which also belongs to his employer. I don’t know the owner, he doesn’t pay me for advertising :) I tell you what I like and where.

Photo credit: barbati.hr

We love that Nicola has worked for the same person for many years. This kind of loyalty is a good trait of Croatians. The main thing for them is respect from the employer. The attitude “I’m the boss, you’re a fool” is unacceptable here.

We liked the restaurant and the Barbati complex itself.

The restaurant has a very clean kitchen (we pay attention to this first, of course), a clear menu with Croatian and international dishes (octopus salad, pizza, pasta, steaks, a lot of grilled fish) and normal prices.

Photo credit: barbati.hr

The complex has 15 apartments. Everywhere is very clean and well designed.

Photo credit: barbati.hr

Your own SPA, small pool, beach bar. All this is on the first line of the sea. Nice place. We plan to open something similar in a few years.