Facade of the Umayyad mosque close-up. Damascus - great Umayyad mosque. What is the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus

And I left Syria, which was still calm at that time. Now I propose to read the story and look at photographs of one of the oldest and largest mosques in the world, located in Damascus.

The Great Mosque of Damascus, better known as the Umayyad Great Mosque, is located in the old part of the Syrian capital, one of the oldest cities in the world. The mosque is a sacred place in Syria, as it contains a treasury with the head of John the Baptist (Yahya), revered as a prophet by both Christians and Muslims. The mosque also contains the tomb of Salah ad-Din, located in a small garden adjacent to the northern wall of the mosque.

1. The mosque is called big for a reason. This is the largest building in old Damascus. The spacious courtyard of the mosque and its 3 minarets are clearly visible.

2. The huge courtyard of the mosque is lined with polished slabs.

4. In the mosque during prayer. You can only walk on carpets without shoes. The pattern of the carpets marks the places of worship.

5. I was surprised by some of the relaxedness of the parishioners: quite a lot of people read newspapers and magazines during prayer, play mobile phones, discuss pressing problems among themselves, take photographs, and some even sleep.

6. I forgot to say that only Muslims are allowed into the mosque and into the courtyard for free (although at the entrance they ask what country the visitor is from; only visitors from Arab countries and Turkey are allowed in this way). The rest have to pay 50 pounds (at the time of their stay in Syria it was necessary to divide by 1.5 to get the price in rubles).

7. The weather that day was changeable: rain was replaced by sun, then clouds came again. It began to rain 20 minutes before the scheduled time, but it stopped at the right moment. Thanks to him, there was a reflection on the floor, and the sky was not uniformly blue.

8. Syrians are very relaxed about filming on the mosque grounds, including from a tripod. Sometimes people came up and asked what country we were from and what magazine we were shooting for.

9. I was pleasantly surprised by the absence of people, although outside the mosque life was in full swing until late.

10. The mosque was built under the Umayyad Caliph Al-Walid I between 706 and 715 on the site of a Christian church dedicated to John the Baptist (it is claimed that the head of John, kept in the mosque's treasury, was found during the construction of the mosque).

11. The Umayyads are a dynasty of caliphs founded by Muawiyah in 661. In 750, their dynasty was overthrown by the Abbasids, and all the Umayyads were destroyed, except for the grandson of the caliph Hisham Abd al-Rahman, who founded the dynasty in Spain (Cordoba Caliphate).

12. One of the three minarets of the mosque (the one visible on the left side of the panorama, to the right of the green roof) bears the name Isa ben Mariam, that is, “Jesus, Son of Mary.” According to the prophecy, it is according to it that on the eve of the Last Judgment Jesus Christ will descend from heaven to earth.

13. ...and the clouds come again...

14. Some of the walls and galleries of the mosque are decorated with mosaics, which is clearly visible in this panorama.

That's all for today. I will return to Damascus when I talk about Syrian cities in general. And tomorrow there will be a post about Istanbul bazaars.

Occupying a significant area (157 * 100 m), the mosque is divided into a three-nave prayer hall 37 m deep and a spacious courtyard. The main axis, oriented across the nave, is fixed by a dome on pylons with a three-part arch between the pylons on the courtyard side and the main mihrab located against the wall - a sacred niche decorated with decor. The two-tier arcades of the interior are approximately 15 m high and carry a flat beamed ceiling. The arches, open to the courtyard, rest on square pillars; the internal arches, slightly horseshoe-shaped and slightly pointed, rest on marble Corinthian columns, the details of which indicate their Byzantine origin. The Byzantine influence is also evidenced by the preserved ornaments in the interior decoration: the bottom of the walls was lined with marble, the upper part up to the ceiling was completely covered with mosaics on a golden background. In terms of the total area of ​​mosaic images, the mosque surpassed Byzantine examples. However, the interpretation of forms here is distinctive. The multi-columned hall, which has 19 naves and over 600 columns, is dominated by an original arcade of two tiers of self-supporting arches. The combination of a “forest of columns” visible in perspective with openwork arches, emphasized by wedge-shaped masonry of white and red stones, forms a rich and colorful pattern in space, imbued with a complex ornamental rhythm. At the same time, the proportionate construction of the arcade in plan and height is subject to strict logic. The main nave and individual under-dome cells are highlighted. The interiors under the domes, accentuated by the decor, are decorated with a complex system of intersecting arches - semi-circular, three and five-lobed.

The mosque contains a treasury which is said to contain the head of John the Baptist (Yahya), revered as a prophet by both Christians and Muslims. The head may have been found during excavations during the construction of the mosque. The mosque also contains the tomb of Salah ad-Din, located in a small garden adjacent to the northern wall of the mosque. The Great Umayyad Mosque in Damascus can accommodate 10 thousand worshipers inside and 20 thousand people in the courtyard.

Muslim worship, which consists of common prayer and reading the Koran, is limited to the church set. In the prayer hall, next to the mihrab, a minbar was erected - an elevation for the preacher. Usually the minbar looks like a very high chair on a pedestal with a steep ladder and is lined with carved wooden panels. The floor on which Muslims sat was covered with a carpet. And old massive Korans were placed on wooden, beautifully decorated stands.

An example of this kind of architectural monument are some of the famous mosques: Qubbat al-Sakhra or the “Dome of the Rock” and the Ahmed Mosque. This centric, domed building forms a circle in plan, surrounded by two octagonal arcades. Or the Umayyad mosque created in 705-715 in Damascus, the capital of Syria.

"Dome of the Rock"

Next to the mosque there are minarets, which are a tall, thin, circular tower with a balcony. In different centers and in different historical periods, unique types of minarets are created, differing in size, proportions and compositions. The practical significance of the minaret lies in the public call of the faithful to prayer, which is performed by a special employee at the mosque - the muezzin. He climbed the stairs enclosed within the tower.

Mosques with their minarets are a striking distinctive feature of Arab architecture and the entire Muslim world. They fascinate with their size and beauty of the arches, with their ornaments and mosaics. However, no less beautiful are the palaces intended for the ruler’s rest, as well as for personal receptions.

The main techniques in the field of Arab architecture are the presence of a courtyard principle of organizing a building plan with galleries along the perimeter of the courtyard, flat coverings and roofs, and in central rooms - specific elevated outlines with a slightly pointed dome.

Israel. The Mosque of the Rock in Jerusalem, one of the most important shrines of Islam, is located on a site that had great religious significance long before the rise of Islam.

The Dome of the Rock mosque was built between 688 and 692. It is the oldest surviving Muslim building in the world, although it is called "non-Muslim" because its form is influenced by early Christian architecture. The Mosque of the Rock is not only the third holiest shrine in Islam, but also the most magnificent architectural monument in the Middle East. And indeed, the mosque, erected above the rock, is like a dome covering this sacred place.

It is said that the mosque's dome was originally made of gold, but historical documents say that the dome was covered with a lead roof and the outer surface with sheets of gilded copper. The lead roof remained until 1964, when, during renovations to the mosque, the dome was covered with aluminum sheets that were chemically given the color of gold. Its diameter is 20 meters, and the height of the dome is 34 meters; it is clearly visible from almost all points of Jerusalem. The dome is located on a base supported by stone columns.

The outer walls of the mosque are octagonal and made with arcades. They were originally covered with glass mosaics, but in the 16th century they were replaced with Muslim-style tiles. Inside, the mosque is divided into three circles by two rows of columns, which allows pilgrims in whole processions to move freely around the rock located in the center. Under the stone there is a cave, into which eleven steps lead. And in the ceiling of the cave there is a hole through which the blood of sacrificial animals flowed.

The Rock Mosque has four doors oriented to the four cardinal points. The northern entrance is called the Gate of Paradise, the eastern one is called the Gate of David. The southern entrance is considered the central one, and opposite it stands the facade of another mosque - Al-Aqsa. Inside the Rock Mosque there is an amazing mosaic with patterns that are clearly influenced by Byzantine art. Its walls are decorated with ornaments with inscriptions - an indispensable decorative element of Islamic painting. One of the inscriptions recalls the builder of the mosque - Caliph Abdul al-Malik from the Umayyad dynasty. A later caliph from the Abbasid dynasty took credit for the construction of the mosque and changed the inscription.

The era of the reign of the Umayyads (661 - 750), the first dynasty of the Arab Caliphate, was marked by the complete victory of Islam over a vast territory from Afghanistan. The lands that had been in the orbit of Greco-Roman and then Byzantine culture for centuries became part of a completely different world in a matter of years. This became possible only thanks to the balanced policy of the first caliphs, who were tolerant of Christians and Jews and willingly borrowed the achievements of local culture from the conquered lands.

The nomadic Arabs had no idea about monumental architecture; Muslims prayed in the open air, and the first mosques were simply fenced courtyards. However, when confronted with the urban culture of the Middle East, the caliphs realized its many charms and wished to affirm the victory of Islam by building impressive religious monuments. The best masters of Persia, regardless of their religion, were involved in the fascinating process of creating new architecture.

The Umayyad Mosque (Jam Bani Umay), built in the new capital of the empire, the city of Damascus (Syria) in 715, became a valuable landmark of the era. The place where the mosque was built has been considered sacred for two thousand years. In the 1st millennium BC. e. here stood the Aramaic temple of the god Hadad; in the Roman era, the temple of Jupiter was erected in its place. Emperor Theodosius ordered it to be destroyed and the Christian Church of John the Baptist to be built. When Damascus was captured by Muslims, they did not destroy the church and did not take it away from the Christians, but prayed in the temple with them, because they revered the Baptist under the name of the prophet Yahya. However, then Caliph al-Walid I bought the church from the Christian community and ordered it to be dismantled and a mosque erected in its place.

In full accordance with the tastes of the early Muslims, the Umayyad Mosque is an open rectangular courtyard that can accommodate many hundreds of believers. However, the perimeter of this courtyard is decorated with a two-tiered colonnade, made in Byzantine forms, and in the direction of Mecca rises a huge three-nave prayer hall, not unlike a Byzantine basilica. Greek masters covered the outer walls and galleries of the hall with wonderful mosaics, which in their style do not in any way resemble Arab art. Cypress trees, flowers and birds, landscapes of cities with domes and colonnades seem to have come out of an Orthodox icon, and the golden background of the mosaic, changing and shimmering under the southern sun, makes one remember the walls of the churches of Ravenna and Constantinople.

Muslims highly reverence the ancient shrine. They claim that the real head of John the Baptist is kept in it and it is here that the prophet Isa, whom we know under the name Jesus Christ, will appear on earth during the second coming.

Umayyad Mosque in Damascus on the map

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Umayyad Mosque, also known as the Great Mosque of Damascus(Arabic: جامع بني أمية الكبير, translit. Ğām" Banī "Umayyah al-Kabīr), one of the largest and oldest mosques in the world. Located in one of the most sacred places in the old city of Damascus and of great architectural value.

The mosque contains a treasury which is said to contain the head of John Baptist (Yahya), revered as a prophet by both Christians and Muslims. The head may have been found during excavations during the construction of the mosque. There is also a grave in the mosque Salah ad-Din, located in a small garden adjacent to the northern wall of the mosque. can accommodate 10 thousand worshipers inside and 20 thousand people in the courtyard.

Story

The site where the mosque now stands was occupied by the Temple of Hadad during the Aramaic era. The Aramaic presence was attested by the discovery of a basalt stele depicting a sphinx excavated in the northeast corner of the mosque. Later, in the Roman era, the Temple of Jupiter was located on this site, then, in Byzantine times, a Christian church dedicated to John the Baptist.

Initially, the Arab conquest of Damascus in 636 did not affect the church, as a structure revered by both Muslim and Christian parishioners. This preserved the church and worship, although the Muslims built an adobe brick extension against the southern wall of the temple.

For 70 years, Muslims shared the sacred site with Christians, until the Umayyad Caliph al-Walid I, popularly nicknamed the Builder, did not begin work on the construction of the main one in the Caliphate, Jami’ al-Kabir - the Great Mosque. Before construction began, the church was purchased from Christians and then destroyed.

Activity al-Walid I was aimed at creating the main religious building of Muslims, and of such merits that it would compare favorably with Christian buildings and could withstand them with the beauty of architecture and decoration. " He saw - wrote Jerusalem historian al-Muqaddasi in 985 in explanation and approval of al-Walid's actions - that Syria was a country long occupied by Christians, and he noticed beautiful churches there... so enchantingly beautiful and so famous for their splendor as al-Qumama (the Arabic name for the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem)… Therefore, he sought to build a mosque for Muslims, which would prevent them from looking at those churches and would become the only one - and a miracle for the whole world!».

To fulfill his plans, the caliph attracted the best specialists, used the most valuable materials and did not skimp on expenses.

« They say, - reported al-Muqaddasi, - al-Walid gathered craftsmen from Persia, India, Maghreb and Rum to build the Damascus mosque and spent the kharaj (that is, tax income) of Syria on it for seven years, and also added 18 ships loaded with gold and silver and those that sailed from Cyprus, not counting the precious stones, utensils and mosaics donated by the king (that is, the Byzantine emperor) and Muslim rulers».

Having spent enormous amounts of money and effort in 10 years from 706 to 715, the existing mosque was built. According to legend, Al-Waleed personally began the destruction of the church by introducing a golden spike. From this point on, Damascus became the most important point in the Middle East and later became the capital of the Umayyad State.

The building really turned out to be very beautiful, majestic and proportionate. Its creators did not destroy the previous building, as some authors mistakenly insist, but actively used many of its parts, details and materials, planning and design techniques, construction and decoration techniques. The architecture of the Damascus Umayyad Mosque provides the earliest and most remarkable example of the organic transformation of an early Byzantine temple into a building of worship for Islam. Preserving the stylistic features of Syrian architecture of the Byzantine era, this beautiful building fully possesses features that affirm the foundations of Islamic religious architecture itself. It was in Damascus that the idea of ​​a columned mosque was first embodied in the classical forms of a monumental structure.

Architecture

The Muslim prayer building, 157.5 meters long and 100 meters wide, fits perfectly into the rectangle of ancient stone walls stretched from west to east. On the remains of the corner antique square towers, used as powerful and durable bases, four minarets were erected, which presumably replaced Christian bell towers. None of these first minarets in Islam have survived. Only the ancient tower on the southwest corner has remained intact to this day; The three-tiered minaret now standing on it - the elegant multifaceted al-Gharbiya (Western) - was erected in 1488 by the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbey. The tetrahedral southeastern minaret, named after the prophet Isa (peace be upon him), dates back to 1340.

In the middle of the northern wall, possibly under the Umayyads, a third minaret was erected, rebuilt at the end of the 12th century, and then expanded during the reign of the Mamluk or Ottoman sultans.

The space inside the ancient walls was freed up for a spacious courtyard - sahn, an indispensable condition of the cathedral mosque. The northern, western and eastern sides of the courtyard were decorated with galleries with wooden beamed ceilings on two-tier arcades. The pillars, arches and walls of the galleries were covered with marble cladding, stone carvings and magnificent mosaics made of colored smalt glass cubes. The floor of the courtyard was covered with slabs of white marble.

The southern side of the sakhna was occupied by a huge prayer hall - a haram, almost 136 meters long and more than 37 meters wide, open to the courtyard with an arcade. After the fire of 1893, the arched spans were closed with wooden doors and windows with colored glass. The tall and bright prayer hall inside is divided along its entire length into three longitudinal passages-nave, parallel to the wall of the qibla, by two rows of marble columns, carrying, like the courtyard arcades, two tiers of arches. Each longitudinal nave has its own ceiling, made of painted wooden beams, and its own gable roof on the rafters - a feature later repeated in the Great Mosque of Cordoba and al-Qaraouine in Fez.

Widely spaced columns of the arcades created convenient transverse passages from the courtyard to the wall of the qibla. The central transverse passage-transept, covered with a gable roof, is raised above the naves by more than 10 meters and is noticeably wider than the other passages. The courtyard facade of the transept with tiers of elegant arches and windows is completed with a simple triangular pediment, crowning the beautiful main entrance to the hall, reminiscent of a triumphal arch; it is “guarded” by tall buttresses decorated with marble and carvings.

The transept defined the main, sacred axis of the mosque, as if crossing the courtyard from the northern minaret. At the southern end of the axis-transept, a large mihrab was built into the wall of the qibla, which still exists today, but in an updated design. Much earlier, in the eastern half of the southern wall of the mosque, the famous mihrab of the Companions of the Prophet (peace be upon them) was installed, which did not have a niche until the caliph al-WaleedI construction.

It was here that the first Muslims of Damascus came to pray, and it was here that the caliph was built for the founder of the Umayyad dynasty. Muawiya, believed to be the first maksura (“fenced”) in Islam.

In medieval Great Mosques, maksura was the area around the mihrab and minbar, fenced with a wooden lattice or other fence in order to protect the caliph, imam or ruler. Ibn Jubayr I saw small maksurs in the corners of the hall, separated by lattice wooden screens; The ulema used them “for copying books, for studying, or for seclusion from the crowd.” In the western part of the southern nave there was a maksura of the Hanifites, where they gathered for study and prayer. Therefore, the third medieval mihrab installed on the western side of the qibla wall began to be called Hanafi. The fourth mihrab was made in the 20th century.

In the eastern half of the southern nave, between the arches, there is a small marble structure in the form of a cube, decorated with columns and topped with a dome - the mashhad of the head of the prophet and the righteous. Yahya, son of Zakariya(peace be upon him).

Geographer of the early 20th century. Ibn al-Faqih cites an early Muslim tradition according to which, during the construction of a mosque, workers stumbled upon a dungeon and reported it to al-Walid. At night, the Caliph himself went down into the dungeon and discovered inside “an elegant church three cubits in width and length. There was a chest in it, and in the chest there was a basket with the inscription: this is the head of Yahya, the son of Zakariya.” By order of al-Walid, the basket was placed under the pillar he indicated, “lined with marble, the fourth, eastern, known as al-Sakasika.”

On the site of a modern, impressive tomb Ibn Jubayr in 1184 he saw “a wooden box between the columns, and above it a lamp that looked like hollow crystal, like a large bowl.”

The center of the hall - the intersection of the middle nave and the transept leading to the Great Mihrab - is overshadowed by a large stone dome raised on four massive marble-clad pillars. Originally, in accordance with Syrian tradition, the dome was apparently made of wood.

Al-Muqaddasi claims that its top was decorated with a golden orange topped with a golden garnet. During times Ibn Jubaira the dome had two shells: an outer one, lined with lead, and an inner one, made of bent wooden ribs, with a gallery between them. Through the windows of the “small dome,” the traveler and his companions saw the prayer hall and the people in it, and from the “lead gallery” encircling the upper dome, “they saw a sight that darkened the mind” - a panorama of medieval Damascus. The highly elevated dome is still clearly visible today from different points of the Old City and serves as a landmark pointing to the sacred part Jami' al-Umawiy- prayer hall with mihrab. According to Ibn Jubayr, the inhabitants of Damascus likened it to “a flying eagle: the dome itself is like a head, the passage below (transept) is like a chest, and half the wall of the right passage and half of the left (naves on the sides of the transept) are like the two wings of an eagle” and called this part an-Nasr (Eagle) mosque. When viewed from above, the body of the prayer hall truly resembles a giant bird spreading its wings.

The Umayyad Mosque in Damascus initially received everything that the main mosque of the city and state was obliged to have. One of the important features of the Great Mosque during the Caliphate era was the House of Property - Bayt al-mal, the storage place for the treasury of the Muslim community. The bayt al-mal of the Damascus mosque, still standing on the west side of the courtyard, may have been the earliest Islamic structure of this type.

Its shape resembles an octagonal box with a dome lid lined with sheet lead. The body of the "box" is composed of alternating courses of stone and brick and is protected by being raised high on eight smooth marble columns with magnificently carved Corinthian capitals, and a small door in its north-western face can only be reached by a ladder.

All eight sides of the treasury were lined with smalt mosaics with patterns and architectural landscapes on a golden background, why Ibn Jubayr and called her “beautiful as a garden.” According to him, Damascus Bayt al-mal was built al-WaleedI, and money was stored in it - income from harvests and taxes levied. Directly below the treasury, inside a ring of columns, there was a fountain with a pool surrounded by a parapet. Its purpose is not entirely clear, since the sabil, a mandatory fountain for every mosque, was built in the center of the courtyard and marked one of the most important points on the sacred axis of the mosque.

On the eastern side, the composition of the courtyard is “balanced” by a pavilion resembling a gazebo with a dome on eight pillars. The time and reason for its construction also remain a mystery. It has been suggested that this was the body of the famous water clock of the Damascus Mosque, however, according to evidence Ibn Jubaira, this clock was located “to the right of the exit from Bab Jairun”, in a room that had “the appearance of a large round sphere with windows of yellow copper, open like small doors according to the number of daylight hours and driven by a mechanical device.

After each hour of the day, he explained Ibn Jubayr, - falls along a copper weight from the beaks of two yellow copper falcons, towering above two copper dishes, with one falcon located under the right door... and the second under the last one, on the left. There are holes made in both saucers, and when the nut weights fall there, they return through the inside of the wall, and now you see how both falcons stretch their necks with nuts in their beaks towards the dishes and quickly throw them thanks to an amazing mechanism, which appears in the imagination as magic. When the nuts fall into both dishes, their ringing is heard, and at the same time the door corresponding to the given hour is closed with a plate of yellow copper.” At night, the glass, inserted into 12 round lattice openings of red copper, is alternately illuminated by a lamp located behind them, “which is rotated by water at the rate of one circle per hour. After an hour, the light of the lamp covers the corresponding strip of glass and its beam falls on a round hole located opposite, and it appears as a red circle. This action then continues to the next hole until the night hours have passed and all the round holes are colored red.”

Upon completion of construction, the mosque was dressed from top to bottom in a luxurious multi-colored outfit. The lower surfaces to the height of the trunks of columns and pillars were lined with marble with large geometric patterns, set with figured tiles and strips of colored stone.

They were complemented by window grilles, delighting with the witty simplicity of the patterns, which at first glance were intricately woven. Higher up, up to the beamed ceilings, the kingdom of marble was replaced by magnificent mosaics made of miniature cubes of gold and multi-colored smalt. They represent outlandish plants and trees, spreading giant branches covered with leaves or hung with fruits, landscapes with patterned tents and multi-tiered palaces surrounded by green groves, on the banks of a deep river. These fabulous-looking compositions are consonant with the pictures of the Gardens of Eden described in the Koran, where “good dwellings” are prepared for the righteous (Holy Koran, 9:72), blessed rivers flow (Holy Koran 47:15,17), various kinds of bushes and trees grow, giving shade and abundant fruits, not exhausted and not forbidden (Holy Quran 56:11-34).

According to an Arab historian Ibn Shakira(XIV century), in the prayer hall " above the mihrab the Kaaba was placed, and other countries were depicted on the right and left, with everything that they produced from trees, remarkable for their fruits or flowers or other objects».

The courtyard, decorated with outlandish landscapes, with inexhaustible sources of water and shady galleries, was in itself a paradise, where even today the residents of Damascus love to hide from the bustle of the city, the noise of the bazaar surrounding the mosque, the dust and heat of the city streets.

During the Middle Ages, Damascus Jami' al-Umawiy was the heart of not only religious, spiritual, but also social life, where townspeople communicated with each other and spent their leisure time. Ibn Jubayr noted that the courtyard of the mosque “is the most pleasant and beautiful of sights. Here is a meeting place for city residents, a place for their walks and recreation. Every evening they can be seen there moving from east to west, from the Jairun gate to the al-Barid gate. One here is talking with a friend, the other is reading the Koran.”

Over the twelve centuries of the building's existence, its precious cover has partly disappeared, partly been replaced by new decor or hidden by layers of plaster. Since the late 1920s, the hard work of researchers and restorers has gradually returned the mosque to its original appearance.

Thus, visitors to the mosque today can observe the following:

The mosque is separated from the bustling city by thick walls. The huge courtyard has the shape of a rectangle 125 meters long and 50 meters wide and is lined with black and white polished slabs; to the left of the entrance stands an impressive wooden cart on huge wheels. Some say that this is a ramming device left by Tamerlane after the storming of Damascus, others consider the cart to be a war chariot from the times of Ancient Rome. The floor of the prayer hall is covered with many carpets - there are more than five thousand of them.

In the prayer hall, as mentioned earlier, there is a tomb with the Head of John the Baptist, cut off by order of King Herod. The tomb is made of white marble, decorated with niches made of green relief glass. Through a special opening you can throw a memorial note, a photograph inside, or donate money to the Prophet Yahya (as Muslims call John the Baptist).

Three minarets rise above the mosque into the blue sky. The oldest of them is located in the center of the northern wall surrounding the mosque. It is called Al-Arouk - the minaret of the Bride - and was built during the Umayyad era. Time has not preserved its original appearance. The minaret has been restored several times, and its upper part is made in a modern style. The western minaret, Al-Gharbiya, was built in the 15th century. Its rectangular tower, topped with a sharp spire, rises above the western entrance to the mosque courtyard.

One of the three minarets of the Umayyad Mosque (the one located on the southeast side) bears the name Isa ibn Maryam. According to the prophecy, it is according to it that on the eve of the Last Judgment Jesus Christ will descend from heaven to earth. The hands of the Savior, dressed in white robes, will lie on the wings of two angels, and his hair will appear wet, even if it has not been touched by water. That is why the imam of the mosque lays a new carpet every day on the ground under the minaret, where the Redeemer’s foot should step.

The entire floor of the prayer hall is covered with luxurious carpets - these are donations from believers to the temple. The best decoration of the Umayyad Mosque is rightfully considered to be its mosaics. According to legend, the Caliph invited craftsmen from Constantinople to work on them. For a long time, the mosaics of the Umayyad mosque were hidden under a layer of plaster and only in 1927, through the efforts of restorers, they saw the light again.

The mosque hall is illuminated by heavy European-style crystal chandeliers. In the 19th century, the interior of the prayer hall changed its appearance somewhat. In particular, the windows and openings of the arches of the northern wall were decorated with bright, colorful stained glass windows.

Umayyad Great Mosque in Damascus, the creators of which willingly took advantage of the experience of previous cultures, became a model of a Muslim cathedral religious building. Remaining a one-of-a-kind architectural monument, it is responsible for many subsequent creations by architects of the Islamic world.

Relics of John the Baptist (Yahya)

The story of the relics of John the Baptist has not been fully elucidated. As Archimandrite Alexander Elisov (representative of the Patriarch of Moscow and All Rus' to the Patriarch of Great Antioch and All the East) says, we can only talk about part of the head of the Baptist. There are three more fragments of the saint’s head - one is kept on Mount Athos, the other in Amiens, France, and the third in Rome, in the Church of Pope Sylvester.

In the mosque

The Umayyad Mosque is available for inspection by tourists of any religion for a small fee. Only women are given black capes to cover their faces, and when entering the mosque, traditionally, you must remove your shoes.

The parishioners behave relaxed - they not only pray, but also read, sit, lie, some even sleep. Children roll around the mosque's polished marble courtyard on their bellies. Every day, except Friday, representatives of any faith are freely allowed into the mosque, and no ill will towards guests is felt here. As in any other mosque, upon entering you must remove your shoes, which you can carry with you or leave at the entrance for a small fee to the gatekeepers. Many people wear socks: in the heat, the marble slabs of the courtyard heat up to a high temperature and you can only walk on them barefoot by running.

Umayyad Mosque, the heart of the Old City of Damascus.
The Umayyad Mosque (in Arabic Jami al-Omawi) is one of the holiest places in Islam, second in holiness only to the mosques of Mecca and Medina, and Jerusalem's Al-Aqsa. But surpassing all of them in grandeur. This place was sacred long before the Prophet preached. In the 9th century BC, a temple to the Aramaic god Haad was built on this site, comparable in size to the Temple of Bel in Palmyra. The Romans rebuilt it into a grandiose Temple of Jupiter, comparable to the one in Baalbek. At the end of the 4th century, Emperor Theodosius turned the pagan temple into the Basilica of St. Zechariah, later renamed in honor of John the Baptist. In 636, Damascus was occupied by the Arabs and the eastern part of the basilica was turned into a mosque. At the same time, its western part remained Christian for another 70 years. Then the Christians were kicked out and the caliphs began a grandiose reconstruction of the mosque, charging it with 7 years of tax collection from the entire state. The resulting devastation of the treasury was one of the reasons for the fall of the Umayyads. Since then, the mosque has remained almost unchanged; the last time it was updated and restored by the Ottomans was in 1893.
There are many roads to the mosque, but usually two are used. From al-Saura, a direct path leads to the mosque through the Hamidiya covered market.

It ends with Koranic shops

at the Corinthian columns of the ancient western gate of the temenos (sacred area) of the Temple of Jupiter.

After them we go out to the square in front of the western wall of the mosque, where it is always crowded and full of pigeons.

Another road leads to the same square - from Straight along Shariya Souk al-Bzuriya, past the Azema Palace, to the southern wall of the mosque, turn left.
Why is the square crowded? But because the western gate of the mosque (Bab al-Barid) faces it, through which the faithful go inside.

They go for free, of course. Others must pay a fee and go through another entrance. Which is what the policeman standing at the gate is watching.

Before going inside, it’s worth going around the mosque itself, walking along a powerful wall, more reminiscent of a fortress, and looking at the tall minarets.
The mosque's plan has the shape of a rectangle - accordingly, there are three minarets :) Moreover, they were erected in different eras and in different styles. From the square at the western gate two are visible - in the north the Bride Minaret, the oldest, built in 705, in the south - the Al-Gharbiya Minaret, the most beautiful, in the Mamluk style.

Walking along the southern wall, along Shariya Souq al-Abbasiya (they sell souvenirs), past the closed southern gate (Bab Ziyad), we will see the minaret of Isa (Jesus), built in 1347, from the remains of the tower of the Temple of Jupiter - locals believe that it is on this Jesus will descend on Judgment Day. Of course, this minaret is the tallest.
Having turned the corner, we come out onto the same Kalmania street with cafes. It starts from the spectacularly closed eastern gate of the mosque (Bab al-Nafura). Nearby there is also something antique - the remains of the eastern gate of the temenos of the Temple of Jupiter.

In general, to the east of the temple in ancient times there was an agora - the shopping arcades of ancient Damascus, and here and there you can see ancient columns built into houses.
Okay, it's time to go inside - for this we will return to the western gate. The Umayyad Mosque is open to infidels all days from morning to evening (more precisely, from morning to evening prayer, so if you wish, you can come at 4 in the morning :)), except for the main Friday prayer (from 12:30 to 14:00).
Entering the mosque is a little tricky, because the ticket is sold in the wrong place. So, we go north along the western wall and turn into the gate - there is a small building of the tickit office, above which rises the dome of Zacharias Madras. Tickets cost £50.

Upon receiving it, you should not immediately run to the mosque - you should walk around the small area behind the ticket office. Behind it there is a small park in which there is Saladdin’s mausoleum, as well as the graves of three Turkish pilots who died in 1914 while flying from Istanbul to Cairo. True, the iron bars did not allow entry into the park, it seems that something is being restored here too. Or did I just arrive late?

Further east is the attractive 15th-century Mamluk madrassa Jaqmakiya, which houses the Museum of Arabic Epigraphy (£75 entry), a collection of examples of Arabic writing and writing objects.
Okay, it's time to go to the mosque. We walk along Shariya al-Sadria, past the iron grating of the garden and the madrasa, which we have already visited. Several Roman columns, collected from the surrounding neighborhoods, lie near the grille.

By the way, about the red cat sleeping on the column. I saw typical domestic cats only in the Christian areas of East Beirut. In other places, skinny stray cats constantly caught the eye, feeding from numerous local dumps and hiding from the heat under parked cars. Their natural enemies - dogs - are not found in Arab cities, therefore local cats are not particularly timid.
Gentiles enter the mosque through the northern gate (Bab al-Amara). As you approach them, the remains of the colonnade of the Temple of Jupiter are visible on the right.

You are required to take off your shoes in the mosque. So, it is advisable to choose clean socks that do not have holes when going to the mosque :) Tourists can carry their shoes in their hands, or they can hand them over to the controller in a glass booth.

When returning shoes, they ask for baksheesh, but you can send them :) Locals usually just leave their shoes at the doorstep, or put them in black plastic bags and take them with them. Tourists have to wear abaya capes with a hood and long sleeves of some dirty green color.

The entrances lead to the vast courtyard of the mosque. The polished floor shines brightly, children are playing - here they are allowed to run around, unlike in the prayer hall.
Along the central axis of the courtyard rise a couple of octagonal structures on columns, a couple of antique columns with 19th century lamps on top, and a bathing pool in the rotunda.

On the eastern side of the mosque's courtyard is the entrance to the sanctuary of Hussein, where the head of the grandson of the Prophet and the main martyr of Shiism is kept. It is her presence here that is the reason for the abundance of Iranian pilgrims in the Umayyad mosque, who killed Ali and Hussein. But when I was there, the sanctuary was closed and fenced with a light green keeper tape.

On the western side of the mosque’s courtyard there is a 37-meter arched covered gallery, in which the main entrance for the faithful is located.
The gallery and main entrance are decorated with wonderful mosaics from the 8th-13th centuries.

They depict either paradise or the Baroda valley in the vicinity of Damascus.

In short, it’s the same thing, if you believe the remark of the Prophet Muhammad, who, according to legend, did not enter Damascus, saying that you can enter paradise only once.
The facade of the prayer hall is also decorated with mosaics (with gilding) and has 22 doors and an eternally closed main gate.

Enter the prayer hall through some of these doors, which are open. Most are through the extreme western ones, which are right next to the main entrance to the mosque for the faithful.
Inside, at the entrance, there is an electronic board that indicates the times of sunrise and sunset, as well as prayers.

The vast and tall prayer hall is divided by two rows of Corinthian columns into three huge naves.

The floor is lined with soft red roofs, and huge chandeliers hang from the ceiling. In the center of the hall, at a height of 36 meters, rises a giant dome, built after a fire in the 11th century.

In the southern wall there are mihrabs - niches indicating the direction to Mecca for worshipers, and in the middle of the southern wall there is a minbar - the imam's pulpit.
In the eastern part of the prayer hall there is a sanctuary of John the Baptist (Prophet Yahya in Islam),

behind the green glass you can see a sarcophagus with the head of John the Baptist.

True, great prophets are not like ordinary people. For example, judging by the number of heads of John the Baptist revered in different places in the Middle East, he had at least a dozen of them :) But the Damascus head is one of the most revered by Muslims.
The place, like everything in the Old Town, is surprisingly atmospheric. It’s nice to leisurely wander around the hall, sit on the soft carpet by one of the columns, watching those gathered. The imam sits next to the minbar, and around him (also sitting) is a small crowd. The voice of the imam is carried throughout the mosque by a loudspeaker - but not too loudly, so it comes as a background sound, intertwining a quiet note with the general atmosphere.

Another group of people sits in the central nave, closer to the sanctuary of John the Baptist, listening to someone else wearing a haji cap. In different places they pray for something one by one. Tourists are wandering around - what especially caught my eye was a crowd of either Japanese or Korean women in abayas.

The largest concentration of people is at the sanctuary of John the Baptist. Someone, placing his forehead against the iron bars and closing his eyes, silently whispers a prayer. And nearby is a group of young and modernly dressed guys and girls, obviously local. They take pictures with their cell phones in front of the sanctuary, chatting loudly.
In general, the quintessence of life. Indeed, it’s worth visiting and seeing - not running around all the sights, but just sitting and relaxing, stopping and looking around.
Next time - a walk around.