Czech Switzerland, Hrensko - by boat along the canyon. Czech Switzerland Czech Republic and Switzerland on the map

Saxony is famous for its works of art, luxurious city architecture, and ancient castles. This amazing land is also rich in beautiful nature and cozy resort towns. On every trip we try to diversify the program. We decided to devote the second day of our trip to Saxony to natural attractions. The main goal of this day is to visit the national parks of Saxon and Czech Switzerland.

Read the route of the first day in Saxony here:

Saxon Switzerland is located just 50 km southeast of Dresden and 80 km from Meissen. And again here I will tell you about the advantages independent travel. Tourist buses stop at the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland on the way from Prague to Dresden. And here Czech Switzerland- an unexplored tourist site for organized tourists. Mostly independent travelers arrive in the town of Hřensko, the starting point on the route through Czech Switzerland. We have combined these natural parks into one day route. The road passed through the town of Pirna, where we stopped for an hour. But first things first.

Route of the second day in Saxony.

Meissen - Pirna - Saxon Switzerland (near Lomen) - Bad Schandau - Czech Switzerland (near Hrensko) - Decin (overnight).

Pirna is a cozy resort town.

The first stop on our route was the city of Pirna. The town is located 25 km southeast of Dresden on the banks of the Elbe River. Along the excellent German road, we didn’t notice how we arrived in Pirna.

First of all, we look for where to park the car. I really liked the organization of parking in this city, as in Germany in general.

Plenty of parking spaces in the center, next to the Old Town. There are open parking areas, but we chose level parking. It’s interesting that instead of a restaurant or hotel in Pirna, a 4-story parking lot was built for about 80-100 cars.

Parking rates are affordable.

Everything inside is compact.

When we returned, we paid for parking at the cash machine at the entrance.

To pay for parking, we inserted a parking ticket into the slot, which we took from the machine at the entrance (pictured on the left). We paid at the cash machine in cash. As a result, we received a receipt for payment. (pictured right). When leaving, it was inserted into the slot of the parking machine.

Walk through the Old Town of Pirna took us about 1 hour. But this time was enough for us to fall in love with the town. We would love to stay here for a few days. Well, how can this not impress?! home Marktplaz area.

Pirna- a surprisingly colorful ancient Saxon trading town. It is already about 8 centuries old. Viewers of the popular German TV channel MDR named Pirna the second most beautiful city in Saxony. Many tourists come to this resort town. Pirna is called the gateway to Saxon Switzerland, a national park with many hiking, mountaineering and cycling routes. There are many ancient castles near the city. There is a water park in Pirna called Geibeltbad Pirna with swimming pools and saunas for relaxation after an active holiday.

Pirna is famous for its good wine. The Saxon Wine Route tourist route begins from this city, runs along the Elbe and ends in (the town we talked about in the last article).

There is a lot of choice in Pirna good hotels, apartments, guest houses, What to find and book accommodation, just follow the direct links below:

For profitable special offers and promotions of Pirna hotels, see the form below:

Pirna is also known as a global supplier of sandstone. Many buildings and sculptures in the city are made from this stone. For the first time in the world, sandstone even became a material for a modern local playground. Saxon sandstone blocks from Pirna were supplied in ancient times and now also to many countries around the world. Famous European imperial palaces were built from stone quarried in Pirna. For example, the luxurious palaces, sculptures and churches of Dresden. Slogan modern city“Pirna – Sandstein voller Leben”, which means “Pirna – sandstone filled with life.”

We head along the shopping street from the parking lot to the Old Town of Pirna. The resort is just waking up. Some shops are still open.

Very original and cute souvenirs.

We go out to the main square of the Old Town (Altstadt). It's called Marktplatz, which means “market square.” They've been here since ancient times shopping arcades. Interestingly, the Old Quarter was restored relatively recently - in the 1990s. Many buildings were damaged during Allied bombing in 1945. Pirna was heavily damaged by floods in 2002 and 2013. But after being flooded by the waters of the Elbe, the city was put back in order again. Around is the traditional German “ordnung”. Everything is somehow “elegant and gingerbread”, a very pleasant atmosphere.

There is an old well on the square with water flowing from the tap. We don’t know if it’s safe to drink, but it can be refreshing on a hot summer day))

In the center of the square rises Town Hall. She's on the left in the photo. The building was built in 1396. For many centuries, the Town Hall was a place for trade. Here were the shops of merchants, shoemakers, clothiers, and bakers. It is now a city administrative building.

Above the main entrance to the Town Hall there are ancient sundial and coat of arms of the city of Pirna with red lions and golden pears on a tree.

On the other side of the Town Hall, a beautiful clock with a golden-black dial is clearly visible. They also have moon calendar, the phases of the moon are depicted. Under the clock is the coat of arms of the city of Pirna from 1549, and below is the old Saxon coat of arms from 1555. They are both made of the city's emblematic stone, sandstone.

White building Canalettohaus with a pointed Gothic roof and windows, it was built on the square in 1520. The house is named after the medieval Venetian landscape painter, court artist of the Saxon Elector Frederick Augustus III Bernardo Bellotto, known as Canaletto. He painted city landscapes. He liked Pirna so much that the artist dedicated 11 paintings to her in 1753-55. Some of these works are presented in the Dresden Gallery.

This picturesque house on Marktplatz now houses an exhibition of copies of Canaletto’s paintings and a tourist center. In it we took a free map of the city, according to which we built a further walking route around Pirna.

There is a very tragic and terrible moment in the history of Pirna. It is connected to the castle, which rises on a hill above the Old Town. It is clearly visible from many streets and from central square. In the photo - high on the right behind the white Canaletto house. We don’t plan to go up to it, but we will tell about its tragedy.

This is Sonnentscheit Castle, its name in German Sonnenstein, literally translated as “sun stone”. The castle was built on the mountain in the 13th century. From 1811 to 1942 it housed a psychiatric hospital.

During the Second World War, Sonnenstein Castle became a testing ground where methods of mass extermination of people were developed. It all started in 1934 after the National Socialists, led by Hitler, came to power. At that time, the ideas of “racial purity” were embodied in the country. How unfit people were sterilized or killed, people suffering from hereditary, mental, serious illnesses, and disabled people. Officially, the process was called “euthanasia” or “death for good.” This was done in several treatment centers and psychiatric hospitals in Germany. Among them was Sonnenstein. The methods were different: patients were starved, given drugs in large doses, and lethal injections were given.

The Sonnenstein psychiatric hospital was one of the first to launch the “T-4 death program” and began mass extermination of sick people in gas chambers. The crematorium ovens were also built here. In two years, from 1940 to 1942, almost 15 thousand people were killed here, more than 1000 of them prisoners of war. After such “tests,” gas chambers for “racial cleansing” were installed in Auschwitz and other concentration camps. In 1947, the chief physician and orderlies of the Sonnenstein Hospital were sentenced to death.

Since 1970 he has been working in the castle rehabilitation center for invalids. And since 2012, after reconstruction, individual halls and the garden of Sonnenstein Castle are open to visitors. In the photo, on the horizon at the end of the street you can see a castle on a hill.

From Markplatz we headed towards the main St. Mary's City Church This is a large, beautiful Lutheran church, built in 1546. Its 60-meter Gothic tower is visible from afar.

Inside the church there are unique sights from the 16th century: the original 10-meter stone altar, a stone baptismal font with 26 miniature sculptures of children. They are created (like the entire temple) from local sandstone. Also in the Church of St. Mary are paintings from 1544-1546 with scenes from the Bible and an ancient organ. The church hosts classical music concerts.

It is clear that the town is a resort - it wakes up late. We were unable to get into St. Mary's Cathedral. It turned out that it opens only at 11-00. The morning resort of Pirna, along with shops and cafes, is just waking up (and this is at 10! in the morning).

The main entrance to the city's St. Mary's Church.

A walk along Pirna in the morning is very pleasant. Tourists are just waking up and you can enjoy the almost deserted streets and squares of the city. There are many old houses around. Each of them has its own history and keeps its secrets.

The old building in the photo on the right is now a restaurant, and in the Middle Ages, from 1578, there was a pharmacy “Golden Lion”.

Above the entrance to the house there is a figure of a golden lion and a memorial plaque. It is dedicated to the hero of Pirna - the city pharmacist Theophilus Jacobaer. It says: “T.H. lived here.” Jakobaer - the savior of our city on September 25, 1659." During the 30 Years' War, Swedish troops captured Pirna - they robbed, destroyed, and abused the inhabitants. They planned to burn the city. The pharmacist, having learned about this, went to Dresden and through the court appealed to the Saxon princess Magdalena, a friend of the Queen of Sweden, with a request to cancel the decision to destroy the city. Pirna was saved, and Theophilus Jacobaer became a hero and received privileges in the pharmaceutical and brewing business as a reward.

The city library of Pirna is housed in an old house from the 17th century. Above the entrance is a lion's head portal from 1770, carved from Saxon sandstone.

You can see exquisite old balconies on many buildings in Pirna. They have been preserved since the 16th and 17th centuries.

And in this house, on the way to the Marienbad resort, the famous German poet Goethe stayed in April 1813. In 1925, the leader of the German communists, Ernst Thälmann, gave a speech.

This original monument was recently installed in Pirna. It is dedicated to the most outstanding citizens of the city in its entire history: the burgomaster, the first bishop, the trumpeter, merchants, ordinary people who did their work every day.

The interesting City Museum of Pirna is housed in the ancient building of the Dominican monastery, founded here in 1300 (address: Klosterhof 2/3).

The Dominican monastery and church of St. Henry were restored and became operational for parishioners in the 1990s.

The tall stele was erected in Pirna by order of Elector Augustus the Strong in 1722. It bears the coat of arms of the royal family. By the way, she is depicted in Canaletto’s paintings. On this pillar are engraved the ancient names of various German cities and the distance to them from Pirna in hours. 1 hour is equal to approximately 4.5 km. For example, the German town of Annaburg is 25 hours, or almost 112 km. The distance to Meisen, where we came from today, is 17 hours or 76 km. Interesting system measuring distances))) Everything is logical, the most practical information at that time was about the amount of travel time. Why these kilometers in the 17th century))

The Germans care about the environment; electric bicycles have been added to electric vehicles. Here is a free charger for such bikes.

Getting to know the cozy resort town Pirna left a warm impression. And we are heading to the natural attractions of Saxony. We crossed the bridge. Along the way, we look at the modern part of Pirna, already on the other bank of the Elbe.

Saxon Switzerland. Bastei Bridge.

Saxon Switzerland is a national park with a stunningly picturesque mountain landscape 30 km southeast of Dresden. It occupies an area of ​​9.5 thousand hectares on the border of Germany and the Czech Republic. Its neighbor is the Czech Switzerland National Park. Both parks are part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which are part of the Eastern Ore Mountains.

Where does this name come from and what does “Switzerland” have to do with it? Until the 18th century, this area was called the Meissen Plateau. Swiss artists Anton Graf and Adrian Tsing, who taught at the Dresden Academy of Arts, chose these places. The mountainous area above the Elbe with gorges, waterfalls and ancient castles reminded them of their native Switzerland and mountain range Yura. Hence the name “Saxon Switzerland”.

We came here for such beauty)))

In the 1800s, Swiss artists traveled here themselves and invited other landscape painters for inspiration and beautiful views. Masters of brushwork and photography still travel to Saxon Switzerland today. Throughout the park, through all the main natural and architectural attractions, one of the most beautiful tourist routes modern Germany Malerweg, which means "Artists' Trail". It offers the most breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Interestingly, in 2016 it was included in the top three most popular routes in the world.

In the 18th century, following the artists, tourists and climbers flocked here. Shops, a restaurant, and a hotel were opened for them. In 1824, the famous Bastei Bridge was built between the rocks. Today it is one of the most popular attractions in Saxony.

The most convenient way to get to the Bastei Bridge is by car, you can also do this by S-Bann train to Raten or Wehlen, by bus from Pirna (No. 237, 238) and Bad Schandau (No. 253), or in the summer by boat from Dresden. If you are traveling by car, it is easier and faster to get to the Saxon Switzerland park through the town of Lohmen. That's what we did.

Following the signs, we drove into the parking lot near the main entrance to the park. Parking costs 3 euros. Entrance to the Saxon Switzerland park is free. The fee is charged only for walking through the remains of the 13th century Neurathen fortress. These are bridges between the mountains beyond the Bastei Bridge. The price for 4 of us is 12 euros.

Helpful advice: For a walk in Saxon or Czech Switzerland, comfortable clothing, covered shoes, water are required, and in summer a hat is advisable. Even though it was hot, we all changed into sports sneakers. There are many rocky trails in the parks.

Next to the parking lot is the entrance to National Park Saxon Switzerland. There are information stands with maps and information about the park in different languages.

We turned off the main road onto a side path. Such a breathtaking panorama opened up. Mountains of such an elongated shape with a flat top and steep edges are called table mountains. One hundred million years ago, during the Mesozoic era, there was an ancient ocean in this place. The sand settled to the bottom hundreds of meters and in several layers. When the ocean waters left, volcanoes split the sandy bottom into many parts. The formation of the unique landscape was completed by water and wind.

The main path led us to the hotel, souvenir shops and restaurants. In 1812, the first restaurant was built near the Bastei Bridge, and a little later - the Berghotel Bastei. This hotel has rich history, excellent reputation. Today the Berghotel Bastei is the winner of numerous awards. It is considered one of the best in Saxony.

There is even a service for dogs)))

Behind the restaurant and hotel there are several rocky trails with many steps, all equipped with handrails. Even though you walk between the peaks of the mountains, you feel safe (this is information for those who are afraid of heights))). And if you look down and around, the unreal beauty will take your breath away.

First of all, we went to the observation deck with stunning “postcard” views. It is located on a high cliff that rises 194 m above the Elbe. This is what we dreamed of seeing when we were planning our trip!

The people on the site are like sardines in a barrel. We made our way to the railing. A “dream photo” against the background and alone is a rare success here. And this is on a weekday. Where would we be without the “pink blouse” in the background))).

In the distance is Mount Lilienstein, the largest table mountain in Saxon Switzerland. To the right of it, on a smaller mountain, rises the Königstein Fortress, a powerful fortification structure of the 12th century. IN different times it served as a defensive fortress, a monastery, a prison, a prisoner of war camp and a storage site for paintings at the Dresden Gallery during the Second World War. In Konigstatt, the alchemist Johann Betherr, a prisoner of the fortress, imprisoned there on the orders of Elector Augustus the Strong, invented the first European porcelain in 1709. This began the production of the now famous Königstein Fortress, a popular tourist attraction in Saxony.

The picturesque bend of the Elbe. Below you can see the ferry crossing and two shores of the city - the resort of Rathen. This small ancient town - climatic resort. There is the cleanest air, a calm atmosphere, the unique nature of Saxon Switzerland with mountains, waterfalls, Lake Amselsee, a rhododentron park, nearby the ancient fortresses of Königstein, Stolpen and Lohmen, waterfalls, the Bastei Bridge, the Miniature Railway attraction, the summer Rathen theater among the rocks.

The ferry in Rathen is a unique, environmentally friendly form of transport that still operates using technology invented by the Dutch back in the 17th century. It moves without a motor and without polluting exhaust gases. This is a cable ferry. It is held in place by a long cable that stretches several hundred meters upstream along the river and is anchored near the shore.

The ferry runs regularly from one side of Rathen to the other. This is convenient for independent travelers who come here by train. by boat from Dresden or stop at hotels in Rathen. To get from Rathen to the Bastei Bridge, you need to cross the Elbe by ferry. A ferry ticket costs 1 euro (children: 0.50 euros) one way, round trip - 1.80 euros (children: 0.80 euros). Further along the famous “Artists' Trail” you need to climb to the Bastei Bridge. The climb up the steep path with many steps can take 30-60 minutes, depending on your fitness.

And we continue our walk along the paths and steps of the park. Another bridge and a wonderful panorama of Saxon Switzerland.

Does the color of these mountains remind you of anything? The famous noble shade of palaces and churches! They were built from Saxon sandstone, which was quarried in the area. Stone mining proceeded at such a pace that the existence of Bastai and the surrounding area was threatened. In the 18th century, people stood up to protect the unique mountains. Nature reserves were gradually created, and after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the unification of Germany, this territory was united into the huge Saxon Switzerland National Park, and in the neighboring state - the Czech Switzerland National Park. Now the original natural landscape is protected by the state, and sandstone mining is regulated by law.

The famous Bastei Bridge rises 40 meters above the gorge. Its 7 arches fit organically into the mountain landscape. The length of the bridge is 76.5 m - such a long observation deck with magnificent views of the surrounding area! The first wooden bridge was built on this site in 1924. Over time, it became dilapidated and it became dangerous to walk on the planks. Within two years in 1854, a new stone bridge was built from local sandstone.

The Bastei Bridge is one of the most visited attractions in Saxony. There are always a lot of tourists here.

The original round observation deck on the bridge. Miraculously we took pictures without tourists in the background))

There are memorial plaques on the rocks.

On the other side of the Bastei Bridge, behind a wooden palisade, are the remains of the 13th century Czech castle Neurathen. (The entrance fee here is 3 euros). He guarded the borders of the Czech Republic and trade routes on the Elbe. It was one of the biggest impregnable fortresses that time. It occupied an area 700 m long and 100 m wide. Fortifications were built on the flat tops of rocks connected by log bridges. There was also a drawbridge here. The castle was destroyed by fire in 1469. In 1485 it passed from the Czech Republic into the possession of the Saxon Margraviate of Meissen. Now practically nothing has survived from it: the remains of walls, an ancient water storage facility, a catapult and large stone cannonballs that were once fired at enemies from the heights of the fortress.

From the castle paths, the Neurathen fortress (pictured on the right) opens up amazing views to the surrounding area.

Beautiful pictures of the nature of Saxon Switzerland and from the Bastei Bridge.

Saxon Switzerland is very popular among climbers. Can you see the climber?

And he is))

Although there are a lot of tourists here, so sometimes there was a traffic jam on the paths, the park is definitely worth a visit. Saxon Switzerland is very cozy, beautiful and unusual.

We are moving towards the next destination of today's route - Czech Switzerland. The road passes through the resort town of Bad Schandau. It is known for its excellent rehabilitation and health resorts, Wellness centers, healing thermal baths, good resort hotels. Interestingly, Bad Schandau is the most Small town in a world where there is a tram. Also in Bad Schandau (Dresdner Str. 2 B) there is information Center National Park Saxon Switzerland. This is an interactive exhibition that tells about the flora and fauna, history and modernity of the park.

We enter the city of Bad Schandau.

The road runs along the Elbe.

We stopped at a local supermarket, bought German beer and goodies at good prices. For example, a 0.5 liter bottle of the famous Saxon beer Radeberg costs about 0.50 cents. For comparison, a bottle of Coca-Cola is twice as expensive))

This is the view of the Elbe from the supermarket parking lot.

And here we are again in the Czech Republic. Former checkpoint on the border between Germany and the Czech Republic. Now the Elbe is changing its name - it sounds in Czech “Labe”))) The road here is very picturesque: on one side there are the waters of the Labe River, and on the other the cliffs of the Elbe Canyon rise.

Czech Switzerland, or lost in the Lost World.

On the border with Germany lies an equally beautiful “neighbor” of Saxon Switzerland - the Czech Switzerland National Park. This is part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in the Czech Republic. Stunning nature, a unique mountain landscape, deep gorges, caves, clean air, silence, many hiking and cycling routes, ancient castles and authentic houses, fabulous sculptures and local legends - this is what Czech Switzerland is rich in.

We arrived at Hřensko (Grensko, Czech Republic). It is called the gateway to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park. The town is located 55 km from Dresden, 130 km from Prague, 40 km from the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland and only 10 km from the town of Decin, where we plan to stay overnight.

What is unique about Grzhensko: This is the lowest area in the Czech Republic. The city is located only 115 m above sea level, although thanks to the surrounding cliffs, it does not feel that way. The nature and climate around Hřensko are also unusual - mountain plants thrive in the lowlands. What adds to the exoticism is that there are more Chinese in this town than local residents. What are the Chinese doing here? And they sell souvenirs and Chinese clothes.

Grzensko consists of practically one street along the small river Kamenice, which flows into the Labe.

The architecture of the ancient houses of Grzhensko is very colorful. Near luxurious palaces- hotels of the 19th century, here under the overhanging rocks there are neat older rural houses.

The town was founded here in the 15th century. A large Czech trade route ran along the Elbe. At first, on the site of Grzhensko there was a tavern, where merchants and tree raftsmen came to rest and refresh themselves. Later, workers built huts near the storage facilities for grain and wood, salt and glass. Since the 17th century, Grzensko became a large trading city. In these places they harvested and processed wood, ground grain in three large mills, mined sandstone, traded mushrooms, salt, charcoal, and even smuggled goods. In the summer of 1838, the first steamships began to ply along the Elbe.

On the left in the photo are the ancient buildings of Hřnesko and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk, built in 1787.

Only in the 19th century did the enterprising owner of the lordship, Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen, realize how attractive his land was for tourists. He began to actively develop the tourist destination. In the 1830s, hotels and inns were built in Grzhensk. In 1862, a company appeared in the city that sold photographs and postcards with the sights of Hřensko.

In 1879, the Mountain Community of Bohemian Switzerland was created. Its members built and equipped hiking trails and bridges with railings, steps, benches, and observation decks, also published popular magazines and held meetings. In 1898, two gorges with boat crossings opened to visitors. During World War II, a branch of the Hitlerite aircraft factory operated in the adits of Grzhensk. The town and park Bohemian Switzerland were revived for tourists after 1964, when the trails and gorges were reopened after reconstruction.

One of the famous attractions of the park is Pravcicka Gate, or Pravcicka Braná, in Czech - Pravčická brána. This is a huge sandstone arch, which was formed millions of years ago by natural “sculptors” - volcanoes, water, wind. Its maximum height is 21 m. An 8-meter arch bridge connects two sand mountains. The trail to Pravčicka Brana has been open to tourists since the 1830s. Interestingly, the famous storyteller Hans Christian Andersen climbed here.

Nearby is the castle "Falcon's Nest" 1881. The former summer residence of Prince Edmund Clary - Aldringen, the founder tourist destination in the development of Czech Switzerland. The castle was erected within a year by Italian craftsmen on the site of a wooden pub. Now there is a National Park Museum on the second floor, and on the first floor there is a restaurant in which the original wall paintings have been preserved. The Pravčicka brane offers a wonderful view of the surrounding area.

Many sources claim that this is the largest “natural bridge” in Europe and the world, but we have seen more on. On about. Gozo has the Azure Window. The stone arch rises 28 meters above the sea. The numbers sound dry, but nothing can compare the delight and surprise when you see such an incredibly powerful and majestic natural structure nearby.

Malta, o. Gozo, Azure Window

Today we had already admired the mountain landscape from the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland, so for a change we decided to take a walk in the remaining half day along the bottom of the gorge Edmund And go boating on the Kamenica River.

Practical information about Czech Switzerland:

Required: comfortable clothes, closed sports shoes, a hat in summer, and bring water with you.

Entrance to the Bohemian Switzerland Park is free. For boats and Brana, payment is accepted in crowns and euros.

• Pravčická brána

Price walks along the paths and observation platforms of Pravcicka Brana - 75 CZK (3 euros) - adult, 25 CZK (1 EUR) - child ticket.

• Edmund's Gorge

Working hours: From April to September the boats operate from 9-00 to 18-00, in October - from 9-00 to 17-00 every day. The last boat in the direction of Grzhensko leaves at 18:00, and in the direction of Mezna at 17:30. (in October, accordingly, an hour earlier)

Riding cost on the boat: 80 CZK (3 EUR) - adult, 40 CZK (1.5 EUR) - child ticket.

• Wild Gorge

Working hours: From April to September from 9-00 to 17-00, in October from 9-00 to 16-00 daily. The last boat in the direction of Grzhensko leaves at 17-00, and in the direction of Mezna Luka - at 16-30. (in October, accordingly, an hour earlier)

Boat ride price: 60 CZK (2.5 EUR) - adult, 30 CZK (1 EUR) - child ticket.

How to get to Hrzensko by public transport: Regular buses go here almost every hour from Decin (the journey takes 15-20 minutes) and Bad Schandau. They can also take you deeper into the park, to the villages of Mezhna or Mezhni Luka, from which hiking routes around the park begin. You can also travel by boat from Decin, from the German cities of Bad Schandau, Dresden and Meissen. And these cities can be easily reached by train.

Buses run through the park, stop locations are marked on the map with a BUS sign.

Parking: There are 4 municipal parking lots and several private ones in Hřensko. All of them are shown on the map. Parking cost: 30 CZK (1 EUR) per hour, 120 CZK (4 EUR) per day.

Hotels in Czech Switzerland: There are hotels and guesthouses in Grzhensko and the surrounding villages of the park. At the same time, you will stay in the very heart of Czech Switzerland and will be able to enjoy nature, tranquility, and engage in active hiking and cycling tourism. You can book your accommodation using this link:

See also special offers with discounts for hotels in Czech Switzerland.

Here is the most difficult moment for those who are traveling to Czech Switzerland for the first time. And if everything is certain with Pravcicka Brana (except for the travel time), then with the gorges we “got it”. We will show you all the optimal walking routes on the map. In the meantime, let's talk about our adventures in Czech Switzerland. We named them "Lost in the Lost World."

We parked the car in the first parking lot. A pleasant woman, the ticket taker, who understood Ukrainian perfectly, gave us a map of Czech Switzerland. We warned that we were parking for 2 hours. (Judging by the map... Oh! Optimists.!))) She smiled and said that this was not enough, but you can pay extra for parking later.

Here is the map of Czech Switzerland that we received. It is in German and Czech.

When we were planning a route through Czech Switzerland, we read reviews from other travelers. Many walked in a large circle: from point 1 - through all the points - to point 6. Everyone wrote that the walk takes a lot of time, but no one said anything specifically, it looked something like this: “I walked, I looked.” The only thing they wrote was that everything was done in a day. But since we arrived after lunch and were in the mountains of Saxon Switzerland, we decided not to inspect point 2 (Bram). We wanted to walk through the city of Gzhensko from point 6 (parking) and take a boat ride in the Edmund Gorge between points 5 and 4. And then return along the same route or walk to the stop in the village. Mezhnaya and come to the parking lot by bus.

"Pitfalls" of thisarts .

1. It does not mark where the ascent or descent is, which is inconvenient when planning a route.
2. Distance in km shown only in highways, and the length of ALL walking routes measured in MINUTES, not meters or kilometers. This is where the “trick” comes in.

Practice has shown that walking along the route actually takes at least two to three times longer than what is written on the map. Also keep in mind that on the way you will spend a little time taking photos - pauses, because there is amazing beauty all around.

3. How does a person feel when expectations are disappointed? Unpleasant feelings of confusion, fatigue from waiting and irritation from the fact that in reality everything is not so. These are our feelings during the second half of our route, when the information on the map did not coincide with reality at all. That's why we were "Lost in the Lost World"

And now everything is in order. Our example of which route not to take. “Don’t go there, don’t go to court”)))

Grzensko is an interesting town. We walked along its only street with pleasure, looking at the houses and funny garden figurines that were sold along the road.

We're excited. Behind the bridge and the Pension Soutěsky hotel (on the right in the photo) a beautiful trail to the gorge begins. The car could have been parked here, but this way we got a better look at Hřensko.

At the beginning of the trail there is an information stand with a map, distances, boat operating schedules and their last departure, so that the tourist does not walk in vain. Everything is written optimistically))) Here you can see that the first yellow section, 1 km long, takes 20 minutes. In city mode we walk faster. But something went wrong here. We walked it to the gorge and the boats in 50 minutes (this is true from the parking lot, 1 km from it).

We crossed the bridge over the Kamenice River.

After it the forest path begins. It is equipped with railings, steps, benches.

Interestingly, until the 19th century, the mountainous area with gorges along the Kamenitsa River was called End of the world. When the paths end local residents They were afraid to go further into the dense forest, full of secrets and legends. Well, what’s not fabulous lost World?!

It's incredibly beautiful all around.

Here you want to sit down and just enjoy the tranquility, the murmur of water, the singing of birds, the greenery of the forest in the sun’s rays.

But the forest path along the stone gorge along the river does not end.

Well, finally we can see the landing site for the boat. Further on the trail is interrupted and you can only move along the route by water.

The history of these boats and the Kamenitsa River gorge began with a dispute. In 1877, five daredevils, having had a good drink in the Grzhensky tavern, made a bet that they would float down the stormy river on rafts. The three rafts confidently covered the distance. After this, the owner of local lands, Prince Edmund, hired Italian workers and built paths, bridges, tunnels, and dams. In 1890, boating along the first gorge, 500 m long, opened for tourists. At first it was Quiet, now it was named Edmund Gorge in honor of the prince. A few years later, a second gorge was built, the Wild Gorge, the length of the route along it is 250 m. Then tourists were taken on boats by ferrymen in beautiful sailor uniforms.

Today we will sail along the first long Edmund's Gorge. We bought tickets at the box office. Tickets for our family cost 9 euros. The walk takes only 20 minutes.

We ask the cashier what we should do, how far and how long after the boat to point 4 - p. Mezhna? He says no, it’s close there. Indeed, on the map there is a zigzag drawn on the green left route and it says 15 minutes. We had two options: 1. Go back by boat, again pay 9 euros and again walk 50 minutes to the parking lot. Or 2. -see more of Czech Switzerland. We chose the second option: after the boat, walk 15 minutes and 500 m (according to the map) to the village of Mezhna, take the bus there and return to the parking lot. (You could also go further along the yellow route, take a boat along the Wild Gorge and go to the village of Mezhni Luka and the bus, but it would be much longer).

The boat ride was very nice and soulful. The boatman told funny and cheerful stories about the gorge and mysterious legends in three languages ​​(English, Czech, Russian).

Local fairy-tale residents looked at us from the shores. Good and not so good))

And where there were no sculptures, everyone unanimously turned on their imagination. After all, the outlines of rocks and stones are very similar to fairy-tale characters.

Do you see the snake?

The boatman pulled the rope and a waterfall poured down from the walls of the gorge. I pulled it a second time - there was no waterfall.

The walk turned out to be interesting. We sailed to the boat station. There is a restaurant on the pier. Here you can have a snack and relax.

Prices in Czech crowns.

On the way we washed ourselves and cooled off in the river.

The path leads through the tunnels.

These tunnels were cut into the rock by workers specially invited from Italy. They were called Barabbas. They were famous mining masters in the Alps. A special technology was used in the formation of the tunnels - in winter the rocks were heated, then cooled sharply with water. So the stone walls cracked and could be processed.

This place reminded me of another stone gorge in Austria - Liechtenstein. Read about it here:

It turned out that a rise was awaiting us, remember the zigzag on the map? It was not an easy climb, but a very steep and long one. It felt like we had climbed a skyscraper. And we walked serpentinely along such stairs.

Well, we think, we’ll be patient, we’ll get on the bus soon. But when the stairs ended, the ascent continued along forest paths. 15 minutes have long passed, but the end of the edge is not in sight)) We looked around, there below was the gorge of the Kamenitsa River.

And when we finally reached the village of Mezhna, to the restaurant, our strength completely left us. The time from the boat station to this finish took again 50 minutes. It took 30 difficult and long-feeling minutes to get up, but 15 were announced.

Judging by the map, there should be a bus stop here. But the restaurant waiter and several people in it knew nothing about this. Strange! We finally found a stop 100 meters away. We sat, rested, and waited. We saw the schedule and realized that buses run here very rarely and the wait for the next one is 3 hours. We decided to go to the village of Mezhni Luka - it’s about 2 km away. The asphalt road went through a flat, beautiful area.

When we arrived at another stop in the village. Mezhni Luka is next to the parking lot, we read the schedule and realized that there will be no more buses today))) And it’s still 6 km to get to Grzhensko. There was no strength to walk anymore, everyone was tired. We thought about using “Plan B”: I need to hitchhike to the parking lot and return to pick up ours in our car. Let's go to the main road. And then in front of the Mezní Louka hotel there was another stop, and there were many tourists waiting for the bus. Hooray! We are saved! While waiting for the bus, the children had fun

We took the bus to our car. Our walk through Czech Switzerland took approximately 3.5 hours. Adventures we will never forget! Now we remember with laughter))) But only thanks to such a difficult walk, we will be able to help other travelers plan a route through the park. Organized tourists are not brought here, because it is impossible to gather them later))) After all, here it is easy to become “Lost in the Lost World”))). Of course, if you don’t know how to optimally and correctly build a route.

Routes in Czech Switzerland.

There are a lot of pedestrians and cycling routes. It's difficult to get lost - there are many signs everywhere. Buses run along the main roads marked in white on the map. Stops - icon BUS on the plan. You can combine a walking route with a bus ride. We will show on the map routes to the main attractions of Czech Switzerland.

Route to Pravčicka Brana.

This route is for those who want to enjoy the mountain scenery of Czech Switzerland. On the map - point 2 And brown route. At the turn from the main road there is a sign to Pravčická brána. Nearby there is paid parking and the Three Sources stop. This is the best place to start your climb. The length of the route from the turn to Bran is 3 km, on the map the duration is 45 minutes. In fact, expect the hike to take an average of 1 hour and 20 minutes, with photo breaks along the way. The entire route along with a walk along Pravčicka Brana and returning the same way It may take approximately 3.5 - 4 hours. (If you are coming from Grzhensko - paragraph 1 or paragraph 6- add distance and time to the calculation.)

From Pravčicka Brana there is a trail to the village of Mezhni Luka, point 3. Length - 7 km, travel time about 2.5 - 3 hours. It will be overcome by physically prepared travelers.

Route to the Gorges.

It is suitable for those who want to see the “Lost World” of the Kamenitsa River and go boating in the gorges. But you will also have to walk a lot)) We will divide it into three options: 1. Easy option Edmund’s Gorge (+ optional Wild Gorge), 2. Edmund’s Gorge, 3. Wild Gorge + Edmund’s Gorge.

Option 1 - An easy and simple route through the gorges with boating.

A) The path that we took at the beginning, but with the return of the same road back. Will go for a walk average 2.5 hours excluding time spent relaxing in a restaurant. Yellow route on the map: from Grzhensk from points 6, 1 and 5on the map you follow the forest path to the boat station in Edmund's Gorge point 4-B. Travel time is approximately 50 minutes. You take a boat ride for 20 minutes one way, relax in a restaurant (optional), and return by boat for another 20 minutes. Walk back to Grzhensko - about 50 minutes.

B) You can complement your walk with a boat ride in the second - Wild Gorge point 4-A.In this case, expect that the entire walk through the two gorges will take about 4 hours, excluding rest in the restaurant. From the Edmund's Gulch station to the Wild Gulch boats, it's a 30-minute walk there and 30 minutes back. The boat ride takes 15 minutes there and 15 minutes back.

*** When planning your route, carefully read the boat operating schedule and find out the last time of boat departures in the direction of Hřensko.

Option 2 - Edmund's Gulch route.

This short route is our journey in reverse)). On the map - white +yellow route: point 3 With. Mezhni Luka - point 4 With. Mezhni - point 4 - B point 5 about 3 o'clock.

By bus you get to the village. Mezhni Luka - point 3(and if you’re lucky with a bus, then to the village of Mezhni point 4). If you have a car, it is better to park it in the Hřensko parking lots ( paragraph 1 And paragraph 6) and before the start of the route in the village. Take a bus to Mezhni Luka. From the village Mezhni Luka ( point 3) walk 2 km to the village. Mezhni ( point 4). There will be an easy climb along a paved road. Travel time is about 40 minutes. Further behind the restaurant, follow the signs to “Soutěska” (which means “gorges”) and go down about 20 minutes along the path to paragraph 4-B.

Behind the bridge over the river there is a fork with signs for two gorges. You turn right to Edmundova soutěska. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the boat station and restaurant. Relax and buy tickets. The boat floats along Edmund's Gorge for 20 minutes.

***

point 5, 1, 6

Option 3 - Route Wild Gorge + Edmund's Gorge.

A longer route, compared to the first option, includes boating through two picturesque gorges of Czech Switzerland. On the map - blue +yellow route: point 3 With. Mezhni Luka - point 4-A Wild gorge and boat station - point 4 - B Edmund's Gulch and boat station - point 5 Grzhensko. Total time for the route - about 4 o'clock.

From the village Mezhni Luka ( point 3) follow the signs to Divoká soutěska. The descent along the road will take approximately 30 minutes. Then turn right onto the path along the river to the Wild Gorge. Follow the signs for another 30 minutes. Buy tickets at the boat station. The boat travels along the Wild Gorge for 15 minutes.

*** Be sure to keep in mind that in summer the last boat in the direction to Grzensko leaves from here at 17-00, in October - at 16-30, in October an hour earlier. If you don't have time, you'll have to climb back to the village. Mezhni Luka, because you can only move further along the gorge by boat, there is no path along the shore!!!

It's about a 30-minute walk to the next boat station in Edmund's Gulch and a restaurant. Buy tickets and relax. The boat floats along Edmund's Gorge for 20 minutes.

*** Be sure to keep in mind that in summer the last boat in the direction to Grzensko leaves from here at 18-00, in October - at 17-00. If you don't have time, you'll have to climb back to the village. Mezhni, because you can only move further along the gorge by boat, there is no path along the shore!!!

After the boat, you head along a forest path to Grzhensko ( point 5, 1, 6). Travel time with photos is about 50 minutes with pauses.

Tourists in great!!! physical fitness is really possible to pass the entire route in Czech Switzerland from paragraph 1 And to point 5 in a day, visiting Pravcicka Bran and the gorges. But it’s better to split the trip into 2 days))

Decin. Czech Republic.

We stopped in the ancient Czech town of Děčín. It is only 15 km from Hřensko and Czech Switzerland. The city was founded in 993 by the Přemyslid princes, the first kings of the Czech Republic. We wrote about them in this article about Prague:

By the way, information for tourists without a car, the Prague-Dresden railway line passes through Decin. And from here it is convenient to get to Czech Switzerland by bus or boat.

Decin was examined from the car window. A very nice old town.

We are approaching the central Old Town Square.

And this Decin Castle, built in the 13th century over the Labe River. This is the main attraction of the town. Since the 19th century, the castle has been the cultural center of the region. It was owned by representatives of the influential Thun family. Many famous writers, artists, and composers were received here, among them Walter Scott and Frederic Chopin, who wrote the Decin Waltz. Guests were impressed by the huge orchid garden. It was considered one of the largest in Europe. Now in the alleys of the castle you can see a beautiful rose garden - Decin Rose Garden.

We booked these apartments near Decin Castle - Czech Switzerland Castle Apartments.

Studio apartment in an old house on the 3rd floor, with a kitchen and free parking in the yard. An elevator takes you to the floor. The apartment we booked has a balcony. In the photo - on the right. There are light green chairs on it.

We were met by the owner, a pleasant, cheerful guy, David, who showed us the accommodation and told us about the most interesting sights of the city and the surrounding area. I really liked the apartment. Everything is clean and tidy, original interior.

On the first floor - cozy cafe with sweets and drinks. Kids splash happily in the fountain. Across the road is a small lake. View from our balcony.

We view Decin Castle from the balcony of the apartment. I no longer had the strength to visit him at all))) It’s a pity that we underestimated tourism potential Decina and stayed here for just one night. The city also has a zoo, a water park, ancient buildings, ancient bridges, 15 km away - the most big mountain Czech Switzerland - Decinsky Sneznik. In David’s apartment there are many brochures describing the routes and attractions of Decin.

I only had enough strength to go to the supermarket to replenish food supplies for the next day and buy something for dinner and breakfast. But even on the way to the supermarket and back, we managed to walk around the lake.

On the opposite bank from the apartment we found the restaurant “Fabrika”, which David recommended.

But we have other plans for this family evening: Czech dumplings, cold German Radeberg beer and a gorgeous view from the balcony.

The next day we will travel to Budapest with a 3-4 hour stop in the capital of Slovakia, Bratislava.

Czech Switzerland is not only the mystical landscapes of pine forests and picturesque valleys, majestic rock towers, gates, walls, gorges, rock cities and labyrinths of mountains, but also the incredibly beautiful canyon of the Kamenica River, a walk along which will leave an unforgettable impression.

This is Czech Switzerland!

Czech Switzerland (České Švýcarsko) is the Czech part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, a fantastically delightful piece of nature located in Northern Bohemia, near the border with Germany. There is everything you need for a complete active or simple holiday: pristine dense forests, canyons, bizarre rocks, mountain rivers, picturesque valleys with rare plants.

Geographers believe that this area owes its unusual structure and beauty to the sea, whose waters covered this territory in prehistoric times. Over time, the water receded and thanks to the influence of the most skillful designers - nature and wind, such a unique natural landscape was formed over many centuries.

What to see in Czech Switzerland?

Pravcicka brane

It is so incredibly beautiful here that the state declared this place a national park of the Czech Republic in 2000. The park has many interesting places, but the most interesting attraction is the Pravčická brána, which is the largest natural gate formed from a rocky massif. Once upon a time, these gates were washed out of the rocks by the World Ocean itself. In 2009, Pravchitsky Gate made it to the semi-finals of the international competition “Seven Wonders of the World”.

Not without a castle. It's as if he was implanted into the rocks. And its name is appropriate - Falcon's Nest (Zámeček Sokolí hnízdo). It was built by Italian craftsmen in 1881 in a record time at that time - one year. Entrance to the Pravčicka brana is paid. But it's worth it. Right under the arch there is a small cafe and an observation deck, the views from which are breathtaking.

Decin

The Bohemian Switzerland National Park is located near the town of Děčín. Travel around the reserve usually begins from here.

The main attraction of the city is Decin Castle (Děčínský zámek), a military fortress and residence of influential aristocratic families.

The smallest zoo in the Czech Republic is the Zoo (Decina Zoo Děčín). It is located in the city center, in the city forest park and covers an area of ​​only 6 hectares. His specialty is growing rare species animals that have a hard time living in captivity.

To rest and relax, go to the city water park Decin (Aquapark) or to the Olešský rybník.

Khrzhensko

The beautiful and hospitable border town of Hřensko is located on the banks of the Kamenice River. Most hiking routes around the reserve begin here. The city has everything for tourists - tourist information center, large parking lots, hotels, guesthouses, shops.

Tolshtein

Tolštejn – romantic ruins medieval castle. It was first mentioned in 1337. At one time it was the residence of local robber barons. Today, the castle walls offer extraordinary views.

Schaunstein

The rock castle of Schaunštejn, built in the first half of the 14th century to protect trade routes, lost its significance after the Thirty Years' War and became a haven for robbers. Now these are fabulous ruins in a dense forest. You can climb them only via a steep staircase in a narrow rock tunnel. A stunning panorama will open from the top of the rocks.

Falkenstein

Falkenstein rock castle

The Falkenštejn rock castle is one of the popular places in the Bohemian Switzerland Park. Unlike Schaunstein, everything here remains as it was.

Souteski

The Kamenice River flows in a deep gorge. In two places, Tichá soutěska and Divoká soutěska, it is blocked by dams. Here you can take a boat ride among the high rocks, see trout under the rocks, admire the fantastic stone figures and the huge artificial waterfall.

Sucha Kamenice

Sucha Kamenice is a small stream that flows into the Laba. Its valley is beautiful in spring and autumn when there is water. There are many waterfalls rustling between majestic rocks, the riverbed seems to be paved with paving stones. When there is no water, silence reigns here.

mouse hole

Mouse Hole (Myší díra) is the name given to the narrow staircase that leads to the top of the cliff. Back in the 19th century, many tourists came to climb the Mouse Hole.

Hřipksa

Do you know where Czech crystal is made? The world-famous “Bohemian glass” is made in the village of Chřibská. It is here that glass production is located, the oldest in Europe (XV century).

Dolski Mlyn

Dolský Mlyn

The ruins of the medieval mill Dolský Mlýn are a romantic place lost in the forest. Several centuries ago the mill occupied an important position.

Ružovsky Vrh

Ruzhov Hill (Růžovský vrch) is a huge basalt volcanic cone. Hans Christian Andersen, who visited these places several times, called this mountain “Czech Fuji.” Although there are no tourist attractions on the hill, there are many observation points from which the views are stunning. beautiful nature.

Belvedere observation deck

The Belvedere observation deck (skalní vyhlídka Belvedér) is a huge stone terrace that seems to hang over the canyon of the Laba River. It is located at an altitude of 130 meters from the river level and is located near the town of Khrzhensko.

In 1640, a forester who killed two wolves carved his story on a stone slab. For a long time, the Wolf Board (Vlci deska) was covered with a spruce tree that grew on it. But one day during a storm, a tree fell and the slab opened. Now we can find out the story of a successful hunt. The road to the board leads through the beautiful Kiyovska Valley, the canyon of the Krinitsa River.

Silver mines

Silver was previously mined in the ancient mines in Jiřetín pod Jedlova. Today you can put on a real miner's helmet with a flashlight and go down into the amazing world of the dungeon.

How to get to Czech Switzerland

By car

First head towards the town of Decin and then Hrzensko. You can park your car there and continue sightseeing on foot.

By public transport

Take the train to Decin and then head towards Hrzensko by bus number 434. See the schedule with departure times and ticket prices.

On a boat

The motor ship on the Elbe River departs from Decin and Dresden. See more details. But keep in mind that you will have to walk about a kilometer to the pier, and then the same distance from the final stop to Khrzhensko.

How do I save on hotels?

It’s very simple - look not only on booking. I prefer the search engine RoomGuru. He searches for discounts simultaneously on Booking and on 70 other booking sites.

Czech Switzerland is the northwestern region of the country in the upper reaches of the Elbe River, which borders Germany. The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are located in this area. Since 2000, this area has the status of a national reserve. The area of ​​the national park is about 80 square kilometers, and its continuation is located in the territory of Saxon Switzerland.

Miraculous sights

Most high mountain The Czech capital of Switzerland is Decinski Sneznik, which rises 723 meters above sea level. This indicates that this mountain range is low. Mountain formations arose thousands of years ago, creating a landscape of amazing beauty: bizarre rocks, crevices, canyons. The most picturesque part of the national park is the Kamenice River canyon and the ancient artificial reservoir.

Particular attention is drawn to such a landmark of the park as the Pravchitsky Gate, which has become a kind of symbol of the reserve. They are natural gates made of rock and are the largest creation of nature of this type in the world. European continent. The span of this miraculous arch measures more than 26 meters, and its height reaches 21 meters.

Impressive thickness rock gate, which is in the bottleneck is 3 meters. The upper part of the arch is quite narrow, so access to its platform is closed.

Having passed under the arch of the Pravchitsky Gate, along paths and stairs you can climb to observation platforms, from where stunningly beautiful landscapes of the mountain landscape open up.

"Falcon's Nest" and Dolskaya Mill

Nearby, almost under the Pravchitsky Gate, there is a small castle “Falcon's Nest”, built in the 80s of the 19th century. Today, on the second floor of the building there is an exhibition of the national park museum. The first floor is occupied by a restaurant with an originally designed interior, where amazing paintings have been preserved.

The Dolskaya Mill is also a tourist attraction in the national park. These are the surviving fragments of a water mill, the date of construction of which is said to be 1515. In the middle of the last century, the mill served as a set for the filming of the popular fairy tale film “The Proud Princess” directed by Bořivoje Zemana.

Over time, the building began to fall into disrepair, but recently it was mothballed, stopping the destruction. In 2007, the Dolskaya Mill acquired the status of a cultural monument protected by the state. A few hundred meters from the mill you can see a small bridge that was built at the beginning of the last century. He represents a unique historical building, since it is the first object built from reinforced concrete on the territory of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

To see the 180-year-old royal spruce, you need to travel about half a kilometer along the path from the mill. The diameter of the trunk of the green beauty exceeds 3 meters, and in the sky it reaches almost 27 meters.

Schaunstein rock castle

In the park, in a dense forest, there is Schaunstein Castle, built in the first half of the 14th century. It was built to protect trade routes. Over time, it lost its significance, and after the Thirty Years' War, robbers and deserters found shelter here. The castle received a different name: Lupezhnitsky. Now all that remains of it are ruins.

The upper platform of the structure, approximately 70 meters long and 20 wide, consists of several parts connected by bridges. The ruins give an idea of ​​the impressive size and former grandeur of the castle. During the excavations, a part was found main tower a structure that could serve as a prison or storage facility.

There are several observation platforms in the reserve, one of them is an ancient stone observation tower, which was erected on the top of Dechinsky Snezhnik. From here, as far as the eye can see, wonderful views of Czech Switzerland open up.

Another platform in the form of a huge terrace seems to hang over the canyon where the Elbe flows. It is called Belvedere, and was built by the Kaeri Aldringen family, who owned most of the territory of Czech Switzerland. Their coat of arms, carved directly on the rock, has survived to this day.

A visit to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park gives you unforgettable moments of communication with unique nature and monuments that constitute the historical and cultural value of this land.

There are places from where this amazing piece of earth looks like a region hidden from humanity and preserved in its pristine beauty.

Download guide and brochure

This exceptional natural treasure even ranks with Yosemite National Park and South American Galapagos Islands in the tourist list of favorite places wildlife"Must-visit 501 - Wild places."

However, a closer acquaintance will allow us to be convinced that this region is by no means as uninhabited and pristine as it seems at first glance. As you move through its territory, you will learn that among the deep gorges and high cliffs there are many surprises hidden. The local cliffs are surrounded by steep steps, and on the tops you can see lonely ruins, covered in legends about robber knights, fairies and giants. With all this, the road to this quiet, fabulous land from the noisy capital of Prague takes no more than two hours.

Walk on the seabed

The Bohemian Switzerland National Park is the youngest of the four national parks of the Czech Republic. You will find it on the border with Germany, which separates “Czech Switzerland” from its twin, “Saxon Switzerland”. Millions of years ago the sea stretched here. Having subsided, it left behind a unique edge, which, being the lowest point Czech Republic, resembles mountains. This land of high sandstone cliffs and towers, rock arches, ravines and mountains with truncated peaks served as a refuge for ancient people more than 10,000 years ago. In the 13-14 centuries, German settlers began to build villages and entire future cities here; fortresses of knights grew on the rocks, who often engaged in robbery. In troubled times, local residents hid here from the armies marching through this region during wars, of which there was never a shortage near the historical border between the Czech and German lands. To this day, you will find here many reminders of these distant events - inscriptions carved on the rocks by the villagers themselves, reconciliatory crosses, rock chapels and abandoned church paths.

Photos: (Martin Rak,Václav Sojka)

Artists, poets and early travelers

The wild nature and hitherto hidden beauty of the region, which developed for a long time without human intervention, were discovered at the end of the 18th century by two Swiss artists of the Romantic era - Adrian Zingg and Anton Graf. Depicting this region in engravings and describing it in poetry, they spread its rapidly growing fame throughout Europe. Places along the Elbe Canyon have become a cradle modern tourism, becoming one of the first actively visited tourist attractions in Europe. More and more visitors flocked to the beauty and mystery of Czech Switzerland. One of the most famous landscape painters of all time, Caspar David Friedrich, also came here to obtain the motives for his paintings. The owners of the local estates understood the attractiveness of the local dense forests, as well as the romantic contours of the cliffs, and made a lot of efforts to make them as accessible as possible by building roads and bridges. On Mariana Rock, Welhelm's Wall and Rudolph's Stone, steps were made, benches were placed, and gazebos were placed on the tops. New taverns and places to stay overnight were opened for tourists along the roads, walking paths appeared, and the wild Kamenice River began to be used for movement between gorges.

Not only artists, but also famous poets, writers, and composers came to these virgin lands for their stories and legends. Fortresses of the robber knights, rocky places, legends about gnomes and fairies influenced celebrities, including the storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, the poet R.M. Rilke, composers K.M. von Weber, Richard Wagner and others.

Czech Switzerland in the memoirs of G.H. Andersen and R.M. Rilke

The poet R.M. Rilke visited Jetřichovice in 1892 and recalls his visit this way: “I want, dear reader, to take you to a land where mighty giant rocks reveal their gray giant crowns from a dark fir forest, and meadows strewn with flowers dreamily stretch along a babbling brook. …. Throughout the area, thousands of roads lead you deep into mysterious wilderness. Everything here attracts you to a sweet, carefree holiday - and even today. Long hollows with cushions of moss and a carpet of heather resemble purple feather beds, the trees look like a majestic canopy, and the tall fans of ferns are filled with blissful freshness.”

The passionate traveler Hans Christian Andersen even captured his impressions of the road from his native Copenhagen to the Czech Republic in the book “ Shadow paintings of a journey through the Harz and Saxon Switzerland". Emotionally and romantically, in the spirit of his era, he perceives both the country and the people he met along the way. He spent only a few hours in the Czech Republic, comparing it with the well-known tune that sounds inside us, full of life: “In my memories, this beautiful land spreads out, flooded with sunlight. I clearly see every detail of it, in my soul it is like a beautiful melody, despite the fact that I do not know how to express it in individual tones and motives.

I see this large clearing in the forest with huge spruce trees, where we were told that we had just crossed the border, I see heavily tanned Czech girls with white scarves on their heads and bare feet, who we met in the dark spruce forest, and, finally, the pristine a section of the Pravchitsky Gate rocks, where we stood under a stone arch thrown over our heads by a mighty genius of nature. I see the vast dark forests somewhere below us are distant mountains with snow shimmering in the sun.”

Photo: (Václav Sojka)

And today the Pravchitsky Gate captivates artists, including the creators of fairy tales. Film director "The Chronicles of Narnia - The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" found the ideal backdrop for his interpretation of this story in the snowy Quiet Rocks. Andrew Adamson chose Tisza because of the richness of the snow cover and the incredibly beautiful terrain with a natural labyrinth of rocks, which few people dared to enter without a guide back in the 19th century. Thus, he wanted to get as close as possible to the world that S.K. Lewis created with his imagination on the pages of books. It was here that Lucy visited the cave of the faun Tumnus, and all four siblings crossed the rock bridge for the first time and looked at the endless forests of Narnia.

The rock town of Til Walls and, in general, the whole of Czech Switzerland today are a real paradise for tourists and climbers. The first sporting forays to the tops of rocks took place already at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, many climbing routes have appeared here. Climbing is possible to various mountain towers of the rock town with poetic names “Baldur’s Needle”, “Golem”, “Forest Drop”, “Stone of the Wise”, “Rudolfinum”.

© Martin Rak

The once quite extensive fortress of the 13th century two centuries later became the residence of Mikel Blekta from Utěchovice, who with his retinue carried out predatory raids on the surrounding area. At the end of the 15th century, the fortress fell into disrepair; from the 19th century, this place became accessible to the public.

© Franta Kriváň

Sometimes also called the Robber's Fortress, it is one of the most beautiful rock fortifications in Czech Switzerland. Starting from the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, it guarded the so-called “Czech Highway” - an important trade route connecting the Czech Republic and Lausitz. The owners of the fortress, the Berkovs from Dube, earned themselves an unflattering reputation as robbers, and the fortification itself served them as a refuge for carrying out robber attacks around. At the end of the 15th century, the site was abandoned and gradually fell into disrepair.
It's definitely worth climbing to the top of the fortress, not only to see the ruins of the fortifications, but also for the magnificent view that opens up at the top.

© Ladislav Renner

At the top of the rock, many thousands of years ago there was a cave of ancient hunters. The fortress that originally stood here was built in the 13th century and gradually changed several owners, among whom was a robber knight, and was surrounded and burned several times. In the 17th century, hermits settled here and lived on the top of the rock for more than a hundred years. Later, Count Kinsky rebuilt the fortress into a place countryside holiday your guests. Among the visitors, the names of the Archdukes Franz Karl and Stephen of Habsburg, the Saxon king Frederick Augustus, and the future Emperor Franz Joseph I visited here with his brothers in 1847.

© Jiří Stejskal

Over the centuries, the once Gothic fortress became both the residence of a noble family and the refuge of robber knights. The current ruins are still covered with many stories and legends. Here, supposedly, the ghosts of the White Lady and a large black dog appear, the dungeon is riddled with a labyrinth of secret passages, and in front of the fortress there is a spring, with the water of which particles of gold scatter; in the stream you can find rare and precious stones.

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On a boat to the very end of the world

One of the main attractions of Czech Switzerland, which, according to the authors of the book 501 Wildplaces, should in no case be ignored along with the Pravcicka Gate, is also a romantic boat trip along the Quiet and Wild canyons on the Kamenice River. It's a short but spectacular boat ride with a gondolier between two sheer cliffs - so deep in places that there is very little direct sunlight.

© Tomáš Pavlásek

In Czech Switzerland there is the first observation deck in the creation of which man had a hand. From here there is a stunning view of the deep canyon of the Elbe River, as well as the Zirkelstein and Kaiserkrone mesas located in Germany. Once upon a time, concerts in the lap of nature were held at this site in Clari-Aldringen. By their order, a “terrena” hall was built, a small estate nearby and, somewhat later, a 4-kilometer path for carriages, then leading to their palace in the village of Bynovets. Nowadays this route is marked with tourist markers.

© Václav Sojka

One of the largest natural rock arches on our continent, without a doubt, the most beautiful natural formation of Czech Switzerland and a recognizable symbol of the entire region at first sight. Since 1881, the summer estate “Falcon's Nest”, originally used to accommodate honored guests of the Kläri-Aldringen family, has been inseparably connected with the Pravčicka Gate. Today, the National Park Museum is located on the second floor of the building, and on the first floor there is a preserved stylish restaurant with the original design.

© Vladimir Pešek

The length of the labyrinth of underground passages is 4,500 meters. At the end of World War II, they were laid by prisoners of the Flossenbürg and Rabstein concentration camps. The underground factory produced parts for aircraft, cannons, machine guns and aircraft missiles. Several dozen prisoners died during the construction of the underground factory. Today, the Concentration Camp Museum is located here.

© Jiří Stejskal

A treasure of Northern Bohemia from the Baroque era, designed by the architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt. At the place of pilgrimage in the name of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is already three hundred years old, liturgies and services are held in honor of Procession of the Cross and the Holy Staircase.

© Václav Sojka

With its expressive outlines and, above all, its elevation of up to 300 m compared to the rest of the terrain, it creates a clear dominant feature of the area. With an altitude of 619 m above sea level, the so-called Czech Fuji is the most high point National Park Bohemian Switzerland, and in the region of Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland - the second highest mountain after Decin Sneznik. It is likely that at one time pagan rituals were performed here, and there was also a place of pilgrimage. German tribes allegedly worshiped Ružov Hill as the abode of the gods. The motif of this mountain is noticeable in many paintings - for example, “Traveler over the Sea of ​​Fogs” (Poutník nad mořem mlh) (1818) by the German artist Gaspar David Friedrich.

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This was once a serious obstacle that residents of local villages on the right bank had to somehow overcome when they wanted to get to the church on the other side of the river in the village of Růžová. At the same time, wood has been floated along the majestic river routes since time immemorial, and in winter, when the local waters were abundant with trout and salmon, they became a paradise for fishermen. Once in 1877, in the tavern “At the Green Tree” (U Zeleného stromu) in the town of Hřensko, five daredevils made a bet that they would sail on rafts from the Dolskaya mill to the place that was then called “the end of the world.” On floating structures 4 meters long, they actually safely reached Grzhensk, essentially becoming the founders of the tourist use of these waterways. Prince Clari-Aldringen invited specialists from Italy, under whose leadership, with the help of over two hundred workers, these areas became accessible to the public. Suspended walkways and bridges were laid here, and tunnels were built with the help of explosives. On May 4, 1890, the opening of the “Quiet” (“Edmond”) canyon took place in a solemn ceremony. Since then, “at the very end of the world,” in fact, nothing much has changed, the beauty of nature remains untouched, and the carriers, as more than 130 years ago, push and guide their boats with poles.

Photo: (Jerzy Strzelecki, Václav Sojka)

This reserve, which has no analogues in Europe, stretches from the town of Tisa in the Ustetsky district to the Shluknovsky ledge in the Decinsky district. The park was founded on January 1, 2000, and became the Czech continuation of the German National Park Sächsische Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland), founded 10 years earlier (1990). The Bohemian Switzerland Park is part of a vast natural complex Labske Piskovce, and the main subject of protection in it is the characteristic sandstone phenomenon - the “rocky sandstone city” of Jetřichovice and Decinske Stena, and the associated biological diversity. Tourists love to visit observation decks with unique views of sandy cliffs, bridges and castles created by nature. The park is popular among fans of active sports: climbers, cyclists, rafting and hiking enthusiasts.

Millions of years ago the sea stretched here. Having subsided, it left behind a unique region of high sandstone cliffs and towers, rock arches, ravines and mountains with truncated peaks.

The wild nature, which developed for a long time without human intervention, was discovered at the end of the 18th century by two Swiss artists of the Romantic era - Adrian Zingg and Anton Graf. Depicting this region in engravings and describing it in poetry, they quickly spread its fame throughout Europe. The sites along the Elbe River Canyon have become the cradle of modern tourism, becoming one of the first actively visited tourist attractions in Europe.

One of the most famous landscape painters of all time, Caspar David Friedrich, came here to get the motives for his paintings. The owners of the local estates quickly realized the attractiveness of the local dense forests and romantic contours of the cliffs, and they made a lot of efforts to make these places more accessible by building roads and bridges. On Mariana Rock, Welhelm's Wall and Rudolph's Stone, steps were made, benches were placed, and gazebos were placed on the tops. New taverns and places to stay overnight were opened for tourists along the roads, walking paths appeared, and the wild Kamenice River began to be used for movement between gorges.

Not only artists came here for inspiration. Fortresses of the robber knights, rock cities, legends about gnomes and fairies influenced the storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, the poet R. M. Rilke, the composers K.M. von Weber, Richard Wagner and others.

And today the Pravcicka Gate, a symbol of “Czech Switzerland”, captivates artists, for example, the snow-covered Quiet Cliffs became the backdrop for the film “The Chronicles of Narnia - The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe.” It was here that Lucy visited the cave of the faun Tumnus, and all four siblings crossed the rock bridge for the first time and looked at the endless forests of Narnia.

One of the main attractions of Czech Switzerland, along with the Pravcicka Gate, is a romantic boat trip along the Quiet and Wild canyons on the Kamenice River. It's a short but spectacular boat ride with a gondolier between two sheer cliffs - so deep in places that there's almost no direct sunlight.

This was once a major obstacle for local villagers. Once in 1877, in the tavern “At the Green Tree” (U Zeleného stromu) in the town of Hřensko, five daredevils made a bet that they would sail on rafts from the Dolskaya mill to the place that was then called “the end of the world.” On rafts 4 meters long, they actually reached Grzhensk safely, essentially becoming the founders of the tourist water route. The local prince Clari-Aldringen invited specialists from Italy, under whose leadership, with the work of over two hundred workers, these areas became accessible to the public. Suspended bridges were thrown here, and tunnels were built with the help of explosives. On May 4, 1890, the grand opening of the “Quiet” (“Edmond”) canyon took place. Since then, “at the very end of the world,” in fact, nothing much has changed, the beauty of nature remains untouched, and the carriers, as more than 130 years ago, push and guide their boats with poles.