What is the name of the river in Karlovy Vary. Good evenings on a warm river. Info centers and tourist offices of Karlovy Vary
When the fashion of “going to the water” came to Europe, the Karlovy Vary resort began to flourish. This generally cheerful Czech city with colorful, toy-like buildings has a difficult fate. It burned in fires, it was demolished by floods, it was occupied by enemy troops... But this is all in the past, and Karlovy Vary still welcomes those improving their health and just tourists from all over the world.
HEALING WATERS OF KING CHARLES
In the Karlovy Vary area, many hot springs of mineral water come to the surface, which have healing properties and have made the city famous throughout the world.
The city of Karlovy Vary, which once bore the German name Carlsbad, stretches for about two kilometers in the gorge of the small Tepla River with a telling Slavic name, which flows along the westernmost outskirts of the Czech Republic.
The emergence and further development of Karlovy Vary is associated with the healing effects of the hot mineral springs that are located here. These sources and their use determined the history, architecture and economy of the city.
It is not yet known when people first began to live here. The very first documents that mention settlements in these places date back to the 13th century: then the villages of Tashovice and Siedlce appeared here. Later, Taszovice, Dvory and Drahovice were added to them. More ancient traces of humans were found during excavations of the settlement in Drahovica, where settlements of people from the Bronze Age were found.
Historians are confident that even then the healing properties of local hot mineral waters were well known and local residents actively used them.
The founding date of the city is considered to be 1350, when there was a large settlement here. And already in 1370, Charles IV of Luxembourg (1316-1378), King of Germany and the Czech Republic, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, granted this place the freedom and rights of other royal cities. The reasons for this act were completely prosaic: the king was strengthening his power in the Czech Republic. But popular rumor has created a legend about how Emperor Charles IV injured his leg while hunting deer in the dense forests here, but healed it with the help of local hot springs.
The name of the city combines the name of its founder and the fact of the presence of mineral springs here - Carlsbad: the German word “bad” meant “a place where people are treated with water.” Later, when German influence in this part of the Czech Republic decreased, the name was changed to Karlovy Vary: from the Czech word “vary” - “to boil”.
The privileges of Karlovy Vary as a resort were subsequently constantly confirmed by the Czech kings.
However, Karlovy Vary is not only a resort. The prosperity and architectural appearance of the city were influenced by natural disasters. The most notable are the catastrophic flood of 1582 and the terrible fire of 1604: 99 of the city's 102 houses burned down. And then the Thirty Years' War of 1618-1648 began, when the rich city was repeatedly plundered, disease and famine were rampant.
Rich people had no time for water treatment, and the townspeople had to look for something else to do. In the 17th century Many crafts developed in Charles Bars: working with tin, gunsmithing, blacksmithing, knife making, which later became traditional and flourishing to this day.
Karlovy Vary was revived as a resort at the end of the 17th century: Saxon, Polish and Russian nobles frequented it. A memorable event for Karlovy Vary is the visit to the city in 1711 and 1712. Russian Tsar Peter I the Great.
In the 18th century Karlovy Vary was a success with the Habsburg family; Empress Maria Theresa often came here. At this time, a lot of construction is underway here, Karlovy Vary is expanding significantly.
Karlovy Vary survived two world wars of the 20th century.
Today's Karlovy Vary is the largest resort in the Czech Republic.
Karlovy Vary is one of the most famous European balneological resorts, formed around sources of medicinal waters and for a long time remained a meeting place for European nobility.
HISTORICAL SPA TOWN
Karlovy Vary is the most visited resort city in the Czech Republic, where people flock not only because of the healing waters, but also to see its famous houses and streets.
The balneological resort of Karlovy Vary has 12 main springs, about 300 small ones and the warm water of the Tepla River. Each source has its own name.
The main spring - Vřídlo - produces approximately 2000 liters of mineral water per minute, heated to +72°C, under such high pressure that the column of water rises to a height of 12 m. It is also called “Spring number 1”, and it is a symbol of Karlovy Vary located under a glass dome. There is also a spring named after King Charles IV here, and, probably, the healing properties of this particular spring, according to legend, determined Charles IV’s decision to build a resort here. The Market Spring has its own character: since its discovery in 1838, it has disappeared and reappeared several times. The mill spring is very old; it has been used for treatment since the 16th century.
All sources are divided into three groups and are located under the colonnades - Market, Melnichnaya and Sadovaya. According to another legend, King Charles IV himself treated his legs in the water of the spring flowing out on the site of the modern Market Colonnade; a spring named after him also flows here, although the historical name of this stream is much more prosaic - Glutton. The city's oldest sanatorium was once located here, and in 1883 the first wooden colonnade in the Swiss style was built. The mill colonnade is the oldest and largest in Karlovy Vary: it is 132 m long, built in the pseudo-Renaissance style and decorated with twelve allegorical sculptures representing the months of the year. The last colonnade - Sadovaya - presumably is also the most durable: it is cast from cast iron.
The mineral waters of Karlovy Vary themselves are used mainly for drinking treatment; this water is bottled. Another type of use is receiving from the 18th century. natural Carlsbad salt from mineral waters by evaporation.
Due to natural disasters during the Middle Ages, few buildings from that time have survived in the city, and most historical monuments date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, when the city experienced its heyday.
The memory of the city's history is revered in Karlovy Vary, which sometimes takes unusual forms. For example, a bronze monument to the German philosopher Karl Marx has been preserved: the “leader of the world proletariat” visited Karlovy Vary three times - in 1874, 1875 and 1876 - coming for treatment with his daughter Eleanor.
Orthodox Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul in Karlovy Vary is a copy of the Old Russian church located in Ostankino, and was built with donations from Russian and Serbian visitors to Karlovy Vary. The temple is active and is under the jurisdiction of the Moscow Patriarchate.
Another reminder of Russia is a memorial plaque in honor of the Russian Emperor Peter I on the wall of the Peter Hotel, built in the early 18th century: it turns out that the emperor personally helped in the construction of the house opposite.
The Karlovy Vary International Film Festival is an annual film festival held in the city, an event of pan-European cultural significance. The festival was established in 1946 - immediately after the end of World War II - and contributed greatly to the post-war revival of the resort.
FUN FACTS
■ The products of the Moser glass factory are produced under the motto “King of crystal, crystal of kings.” The list of regular clients of the Moser company included such crowned heads as Edward VII (King of Great Britain) and Elizabeth II (Queen of Great Britain), Alfonso XIII (King of Spain). The Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph I even granted Ludwig Moser the title of count.
■ For therapeutic, measured walks in the city there is a path: over 100 km of paths laid through the most picturesque places of Karlovy Vary.
■ Karlovy Vary spa treatment using drinking procedures began to be carried out in the 16th century. It became so popular that it led to extremes, where in 1750 there were cases of drinking up to 50-70 cups of water per day.
■ Becherovka, a strong liqueur infused with herbs, popular all over the world, began to be produced in Karlovy Vary, and initially doctors prescribed it as a stomach medicine. It is named after the Karlovy Vary pharmacist of German origin, Joseph Vitus Becher, who invented this drink in 1807. “Becherovka” is made only with Karlovy Vary water.
■ In the XVIII-XIX centuries. The growth of the city’s popularity was helped by frequent visits “to the waters” of great figures of European culture: poets Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Friedrich Schiller and Theodor Kerner, composers Ludwig and Beethoven, Friedrich Chopin and Nicollo Paganini. Gogol, Turgenev, Tchaikovsky came to Karlovy Vary.
■ The most famous specialist on Karlovy Vary waters is the doctor David Becher (1725-1792). He not only participated in the construction of the resort, but also systematized and scientifically substantiated the main methods of treatment - drinking procedures, baths and walking. The basis of Dr. Becher's method: drink water close to the source. He also proposed starting the production and export of Karlovy Vary salt, part of the proceeds from which was directed to the construction of a new theater in Karlovy Vary in 1788.
■ There are several legends about the founding of the city by King Charles IV. One of them says that one day the king was chasing a deer with a pack of dogs, and on the banks of the Tepla River one of the dogs stumbled, fell into a hot spring, was scalded and barked. Approaching the source, later named Vřídlo (geyser), Charles IV was impressed by this marvelous natural phenomenon and immediately declared that the water was certainly healing and could cure many serious diseases.
■ Deer Leap - the oldest observation deck in Karlovy Vary and a sculpture of a chamois on the top of the rock. Associated with the legend of the origin of Karlovy Vary. However, at the site of the legendary jump there is a sculpture of a chamois, since deer do not jump in the mountains.
ATTRACTIONS
■ Natural: Dwarf Rocks National Natural Monument, Little Versailles Pond, Dvorak Gardens (1880s).
■ Historical: observation deck Deer Leap, Gothic fortress “Angel Mountain” (Engelsburg, late 14th century), monument to Karl Marx (1988).
■ Cultural: Moser Crystal Museum and Glassworks, Jan Becher Museum, Wax Museum (St. Luke's Church), Art Gallery (1911), Japanese Garden (1989).
■ Religious: the Church of St. Anne (XVIII century), the Church of St. Mary Magdalene (1733-1736), the Orthodox Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul (late 19th century).
■ Architectural: Hotel “Peter” (1706-1709), Grand Hotel “Pupp” (1781), colonnades of thermal springs (Market, Mill and Sadovaya, late 19th century), Karlovy Vary funicular “Diana”, City Theater (late 19th century), Goethe observation deck (1889), observation towers of Charles IV (1876), Doubska Gora (1905) and Diana (1914), Imperial Spa sanatorium (1895), hospitals "Imperial" and "Elizavetinskaya" (1906), Christmas House, Hotel "Imperial" (1912).
History with geography
Karlovy Vary is Czech Switzerland, a historical resort in the most beautiful region of the Czech Republic, located in the valley of the Tepla River, between forested hills, at an altitude of 400 m above sea level, 120 km from Prague and 45 km from the border with Germany.
Population: 55,000 people.
The city of Karlovy Vary owes its uniqueness to its 13 hot thermal springs, the healing power of which has been known since the Middle Ages; they are still used in spa treatment today.
The springs were discovered by the Bohemian king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV in 1358 while hunting in the surrounding forests.
There are a great many legends about that famous deer hunt, thanks to which the first hot spring was discovered, and the name “Jeleni skok” - “Deer Leap”, can be found on every corner in Karlovy Vary.
According to different versions, all the main characters of this story, the dog, the deer, and even Charles IV himself along with the horse, bathed in the hot spring.
According to one legend, a dog that was chasing a deer got hurt and fell into a small lake of hot water. Charles IV and his entourage pulled the poor dog out of the water and provided first aid, not expecting the dog to survive. However, the dog survived and even began to recover.
After this, Charles IV convened his doctors for a consultation, and they confirmed the presence of medicinal properties of hot thermal water.
Then Charles IV began to regularly drink water from the source and bathe in it, and over time he felt that his sore joints gradually stopped hurting. This became the basis for the construction of a settlement on the shores of this lake.
The town was founded in the second half of the 14th century, but intensive construction began in the second half of the 16th century.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the luxurious resort began to be called the Elisabeth Resort in memory of the famous Austrian empress.
Many famous people visited Karlovy Vary. There were: Peter the Great, Goethe, Kafka, Schiller, Gogol, Freud, Pavlov, Grieg, Batyushkov, Bach, Paganini, Turgenev, Chapek, Chopin, Mozart, Karl Marx, Strauss, Beethoven, Mickiewicz, Tchaikovsky, Casanova, Wagner, Dvorak , Corbusier, Brahms, Tolstoy, Liszt, Hitler, Khrushchev, Brezhnev, Gagarin, Gorbachev and others.
The great Goethe, who loved this city very much and was here 13 times, having written a number of his works in Karlovy Vary, said: “There are only three places in the world where I would like to live - Weimar, Rome and Karlovy Vary.”
Modern Karlovy Vary is truly a Russian folk resort!
All local residents understand the Russian language, many know it well and can express themselves in it, there are Russian inscriptions and signs around, Russian speech is everywhere on the street, rubles are exchanged for crowns in exchange offices, at a rate of 2: 1, our Tajiks and a considerable number of people trade in the vegetable market part of the city belongs to Russian capital in one form or another. And during walking tours, guides like to show hotels owned by Kobzon, Mikhalkov, Luzhkov, Baturina, Shaimiev, Nazarbayev, Yevtushenkov, Gazprom and Lukoil.
Hotel Colonnade
The Colonnade Hotel, where we lived, is located in the very center of the city on the banks of the Tepla River, opposite the mill colonnade. Previously, the hotel included the Patria and Otava hotels. The writer N.V. lived in Otava in 1845. Gogol, as evidenced by the memorial plaque on the wall of the house.
The hotel has 162 rooms, our room had a bath, toilet, TV with three Russian TV programs and three Ukrainian, telephone, hairdryer, minibar, safe and bathrobes with slippers.
The windows of the room looked out onto the Teply embankment.
The banks of the river and even the bottom are lined with stone, and every 10-15 meters there is a step across the river; on these thresholds the river murmurs loudly, and the first nights we even woke up from the sound of the water.
And if you leave the hotel and approach the river fence, then from all edges of the water area, large ducks are swimming, cackling and pushing each other with their wings; they are accustomed to everyone feeding them bread. The pigeons that arrive immediately sit on your hands and peck the bread right from your palms.
We had two meals a day at the hotel, we usually had breakfast and lunch, and for dinner we went to some cafe to eat meat, fish, dumplings, potato pancakes and, of course, drink Czech beer. What’s strange is that in all the cafes there were, as a rule, only two types of beer: light “Pilsen” and dark “Velkopopovitsky Kozel”!
The famous cafe “U Shvejka” was not particularly impressive, but after some searching we found the wonderful restaurant “Little Versailles”, where it was varied, tasty and inexpensive. Locals go there, which speaks for itself!
The Colonnade Hotel is a sanatorium, has its own balneological department and specializes in the treatment of diseases of the digestive tract, stomach, all kinds of internal organs, as well as diseases of the musculoskeletal system, spine and joints.
The following procedures were prescribed to me:
1. Carbon dioxide bath in water from source No. 1 - you lie down and bubbles walk all over you, it’s cool.
2. Dry carbon dioxide bath - they put a plastic bag on you, tie it at your throat and inflate you with carbon dioxide. You lie in this airship for 20 minutes.
3. Underwater massage - you lie in a warm bath, and a nurse massages you with water from a hose.
4. Parafango - a hot paraffin cake with healing mud is placed on the lower back.
5. Magnetic therapy - you just lie on a couch in a large hoop with some magnets.
6. Classic massage.
7. Well, actually a swimming pool, with a constant wave, a hot jacuzzi - bubbles on the belly and a sauna.
The number of procedures per day was usually from 2 to 4, between 8:00 and 16:00.
30 minutes before a meal, you are supposed to go to the appropriate source and drink 200 g of water, and the phrase heard on the street: “We’re going to drink” means something completely different from what it does back home!
We walked around the city in between procedures and meals, and of course in the evening. But, unfortunately, after 16:00 it was already dark and you simply couldn’t see many of the sights.
The weather during our vacation was warm, up to plus 10 during the day, mostly cloudy, in the mornings there was fog in the mountains, sometimes there was drizzle in the air, but umbrellas were never taken out, the sun even came out several times, and there was golden autumn all around.
From Thermal to Pupp
I’ll try to tell you where we were and what we saw in Karlovy Vary.
We start our walk from the huge ultra-modern sanatorium “Thermal”, which is least loved by residents and tourists. A tall dark gray building stands on the right bank of the Tepla River, at the very beginning of the resort area.
“Thermal” was built in the 60s of the 20th century according to the design of Soviet architects and, due to its enormous size, received the nickname “concrete castle”. During its construction, dozens of ancient houses had to be destroyed.
The hotel complex consists of accommodation rooms, five conference rooms, theater and projection rooms, as well as restaurants, shops, kiosks and cafes. There is an outdoor swimming pool 50 meters long on the roof.
The traditional summer Karlovy Vary film festival is held in the halls of Thermal.
And the residents of the city dream that someday it will be demolished...
Above Thermal there is a high hill on which stands a television tower and three large wooden crosses, in memory of the three brothers killed at this place, as legend has it.
Somewhere there, on a hill at the end of the 18th century, there was a scaffold with a gallows; probably, there was also a place for folk festivities...
Opposite the Thermal there is the Antonin Dvořák Park with a statue of the composer and a large pit, probably a lake there in the summer.
Upstream is the Pavlov Hotel, where Russian physiologist and Nobel laureate Academician I.P. lived. Pavlov.
The hotel stands on the very bank of the river, it has only 38 rooms, from its windows you can catch trout with fishing rods, and at night the shadows of innocently murdered dogs run howling along its corridors, scratching the carpets with their claws and looking for the academician!
Further along the river is the Colonnade Hotel, where we lived.
All guides in Karlovy Vary are happy to tell you that the co-owner of Pavlov and Colonnade is Nikita Mikhalkov, and the autumn hard labor in The Barber of Siberia was filmed in the surrounding forests.
Further along this side of the embankment there is a chocolate-colored house, in the construction of which Russian Tsar Peter the Great took part in 1711, as evidenced by the memorial plaque. Now this house is named after him.
Even further away, on a hill overlooking the river, is the villa of Count August von Lützow, an honorary resident of the city and the most famous philanthropist of Karlovy Vary. One day, the count did not share something with the city authorities and, in retaliation, erected a pillar with a sculpture of a cat sitting with its back to the city, which among felines means the highest degree of contempt!
To the right of the villa is the Church of Mary Magdalene, which was built in the 18th century in the Baroque style and is an architectural monument.
Opposite the temple, directly above the river, there is a glass “Geyser Colonnade”, inside of which there is spring No. 1 “Vřídlo” - a natural geyser that shoots a stream of 73-degree carbonated boiling water from a depth of 2.5 kilometers to a height of 15 meters. “Vřídlo” is the most famous, hottest and most powerful spring in Karlovy Vary, one of the symbols of the resort.
In ancient times, the deposition of salts in the opening of a geyser often led to geyser explosions; for example, in 1809, several houses were even destroyed by an explosion.
Today this is the only source supplying bathing water to the sanatorium.
In the “Geyser Colonnade” there are 5 more “columns”, designated as A, B and C, with water cooled to an acceptable temperature. There are also kiosks with souvenirs, newspapers and mini-bakeries for the production and sale of the famous dry Karlovy Vary waffles - “plateks”.
We go further along the right bank of the river.
We go out to the theater square.
The main buildings of the square are the Czech Savings Bank, built in Art Nouveau style at the beginning of the 20th century, the Central Interhotel and the city theater, built at the end of the 19th century, from whose balcony Hitler spoke in 1938.
Then the river bends to the left, and right in front of us is the Grand Hotel Pupp, which in Soviet times was called the Moscow Hotel.
Previously, in its place there was a “Saxon Hall”, later it was rebuilt into the “Czech Hall”, which was the most beloved social center of the nobility in Karlovy Vary. Then the Czech Hall and the surrounding houses were bought by the wealthy confectioner Johann Georg Pupp and rebuilt it all into a large hotel complex.
Today "Pupp" is the most expensive and comfortable hotel in Karlovy Vary. Heads of state, VIPs and participants of the Karlovy Vary Film Festival live here.
From the Grand Hotel along the left bank of the river there is the “Goethe Stitch” - a pedestrian path named after the great writer, on the right wall of which you can see memorial plaques - an expression of gratitude from wealthy vacationers after recovery or relief from illnesses, and opposite on the right bank of the river stands the majestic building "Lazne -I" or "Imperial Spa", which is now, unfortunately, abandoned.
Further on, the territory of the Richmond Park Hotel begins; at the entrance there is a life-size metal sculpture of the famous deer, and the hotel building itself looks like a small castle. This park even has a Japanese rock garden, but we didn't get to it.
Let's go back to Pupp.
To the right of the facade there is a small passage to the lower stop of the funicular, which was opened back in 1912.
You can use it to climb the mountain to the Diana observation tower.
The tower was closed when we got there, so we drank Becherovka in the restaurant and took photos in front of the peacocks roaming around the courtyard like chickens.
We go down and go back along the left bank of the Tepla.
On the cliff above the houses on the left side there is “Kamzik” - a sculptural image of that same deer, the symbol of Karlovy Vary.
We looked for him for two days...
The image of this “Little Goat” is in all guidebooks to Karlovy Vary, but it is always taken against the backdrop of the city and it is impossible to determine its size. So - he is smaller than a dog and from the city against the backdrop of the mountain you can see his silhouette only if you clearly know where to look!
Even higher is Peter the Great Mountain, which he rode bareback to on a bet in 1712. He was probably drunk... Now there is a monument to him and a cross.
On the way we pass by the cafe “U Shvejka”, where we had dinner a couple of times, drank beer and ate “Boar’s Knee”. On the sidewalk, a life-size doll of the good soldier Schweik sits at a table in a wheelchair. Everyone takes pictures with him.
The facade of one of the houses is decorated with a figurine of a golden elephant; this is the Elephant cafe, although it has nothing in common with that cafe from “Seventeen Moments of Spring”.
On one of the houses there is a sign marking the water level in Tepla during the flood of 1890. This mark is at arm's length. Horror!
Then we go out again to the “Geyser Colonnade”, now along the left bank.
Here at the crossroads there is perhaps the most beautiful sculptural group in the Baroque style of the 18th century.
At the corners of the monument there are three figures of saints and figures of angels. In the central part, God the Father and God the Son place a crown on the head of the Virgin Mary.
This sculptural composition is also called the plague pillar; this monument expresses gratitude to the city residents for saving them from the plague that raged in the early 18th century.
On the left side begins the wooden “Market Colonnade”, it was built at the end of the 19th century in the Swiss style, the current modern building copies the original one.
Here are located spring No. 2 “Charles IV”, temperature 64°C, spring No. 3 “Nizhny Zamkovy”, temperature 67°C, and spring No. 5 “Market”, with a temperature 61°C, which disappeared and appeared several times .
Above the Market Colonnade, on a granite rock, rises the “Castle Tower”, preserved from the medieval castle of Charles IV that once stood here, built in the 14th century. Then the castle burned down, and only one tower remained. In past centuries, welcoming fanfares sounded from the tower gallery in honor of noble guests.
Under the “Castle Tower” there is the “Castle Colonnade”, built in the style of classicism and modernism. Here is located spring No. 4 “Verkhny Zamkovy”, with a temperature of 61°C.
Not far from here, on the right side, there is a small three-story house “Black Eagle”, the only one that has preserved its original appearance from 1705. This is how simple the city's architecture was 300 years ago.
Nearby is the beautifully restored Zawojski house, a typical manifestation of the Art Nouveau style in Karlovy Vary.
Opposite the “Castle Colonnade” on the river bank there is a very beautiful house “Minuet”; at the beginning of the 20th century it housed the magistrate, and later the management of the resort.
And now we come out to the square in front of the “Mill Colonnade”, the largest and most beautiful resort building in the city; there used to be a mill here on the river bank.
The colonnade consists of 124 columns, on the roof there are 12 statues, according to the number of months in the year.
Here are located spring No. 6 “Melnichny”, temperature 54°C, very popular, there is even a queue to it, spring No. 7 “Rusalka”, temperature 61°C, spring No. 8 “Prince Vaclav”, temperature 58°C, spring no. 9 “Libushin” with a temperature of 60°C, which was formed by combining several smaller springs and spring No. 10 “Skalny”, with a temperature of 53°C.
Another Prince Wenceslas crane is located right in the middle of the square in front of the colonnade.
A little further from the colonnade, in a separate openwork gazebo, there is spring No. 11 “Freedom”, with a temperature of 59°C.
Between the pavilion and the colonnade, high on the cliff, stands a sculpture of St Bernard and the mid-19th century "Cambridge Pillar", which was erected in honor of a ducal Cambridge couple who often visited Carlsbad.
After this, we pass two monumental buildings: Lazne III and the military spa hospital and go out to the garden colonnade. At the end of the building of the military sanatorium in the basement there is spring No. 12 “Sadovy”, the temperature is 43 ° C, it was discovered in the mid-19th century when digging a pit for the sanatorium. Access to the source is open from 6:00 to 18:30, then this military facility is closed.
And finally, at the end of the garden colonnade, the youngest hot spring No. 15 “Gadsky”, opened only in 2001, flows out of the snake’s mouth.
The chemical composition of water in all sources is almost the same, however, due to differences in temperature and because the water must be drunk without leaving the tap, water from different sources is recommended for the treatment of different diseases. Although it seemed to me that different waters still have different tastes.
Experience also shows that hot mineral water speeds up the digestion process, so there are toilets at every turn in the city, the main thing is to know which way to run.
Where are mineral springs No. 13 and No. 14?
Source No. 13 is the famous healing Karlovy Vary “Becherovka”, and source No. 14 is the healing “Pilsen” beer!
If we go back to the plague pillar and walk up the small Castle Lane, past the Gothic Church of St. Lucas, we will find ourselves on the outskirts of the city in an area with luxurious mansions. This is Karlovy Vary Rublyovka - the city's West End district.
Among the large number of beautiful villas and mansions, the most outstanding building is the Bristol Palace Hotel, with its corner towers reminiscent of a medieval castle. Nearby, in a small castle, there is the Russian Consulate, and further away is the classical Orthodox Church of Peter and Paul, which was built in the 19th century according to a Russian design.
A little further on the shore of a quiet lake there is the “Little Versailles” restaurant, where we often dined, and which was opened in the building of a former brick factory back in 1820 (!).
Becherovka
At the end of the 18th century, there lived a pharmacist Joseph Becher in Karlovy Vary, who loved to mix different herbs, make tinctures from them and sell them in his pharmacy. One of these tinctures, containing more than twenty dried herbs from all over the world and marketed as stomach drops, became so popular that both sales growth and the size of the vessels gradually increased. And half a century after the birth of the recipe, Becherovka began to be bottled in large flat bottles and sold in the wine departments of grocery stores.
The production of this liqueur has been surrounded by mystery for 200 years. The exact ratio of ingredients was passed down through generations of Bechers as a family secret. Today, only two people know the Becherovka recipe; once a week, on Wednesdays, they lock themselves in a secret room and mix herbs.
A mixture of spices and herbs is poured into canvas bags, which are immersed in containers filled with alcohol and left there for a week. The resulting extract is then poured into special oak barrels of a special oval shape, special Carlsbad water is poured in and special sugar is poured in.
There, the resulting drink is infused for 2-3 months.
Becherovka has a strength of 39 degrees, it is drunk from liqueur glasses at 20 grams per day with meals.
They talk about all this in the Becherovka Museum, show a short film about the history of its creation, show ancient cellars with barrels and pipelines, and also give you a taste of three varieties of this wonderful drink, cooled to the proper state.
An integral part of the museum is the company store, where you can buy Becherovka in branded flat bottles with a capacity of 50 grams to 3 liters.
Excursions
If you have time, money and desire, you can go on excursions every day!
From Karlovy Vary excursions are organized to the castles Melnik, Loket, Detenice, Cesky Sternberg, to the cities of Prague, Kutna Hora, Pilsen, Cesky Krumlov, Marianske Lazne, Becov nad Teplou, Frantiskovy Lazne, Cheb, and if you have a Schengen visa to Austria and Germany, to the cities of Vienna, Salzburg, Nuremberg, Munich, Regensburg, Dresden and there were also a bunch of excursions, where I don’t even remember.
We went on one weekday afternoon to the cities of Frantiskovy Lazne and Marianske Lazne, followed by a visit to the Skala restaurant and tasting of Chodovar beer, and on Sunday we went to Prague.
I didn’t like Frantiskovy Lazne. There are no mountains, a resort was built on the plane at the same time and in the same style, somewhat reminiscent of Pavlovsk, nothing interesting.
Marianske Lazne is another matter!
This city, like Karlovy Vary, is located on the banks of a river, in a picturesque valley surrounded by forested mountains. There are a lot of beautiful houses in the center - architectural masterpieces of the 19th century with samovars on the roof. According to the inventor Edison, Marianske Lazne is the most beautiful resort in the world!
I highly recommend it too. In January 2007, we spent a week here at the Central Lazne sanatorium.
The day ended at the Skala beer restaurant, where the Khodovar brewery is located.
The history of Khodovar beer dates back to 1537.
According to legend, the local dog Albi found a mineral spring in the rock, which was used to make beer at the Khodovar factory carved into the rock. For centuries, Albie has been its good spirit and talisman, his cheerful face adorning the brewery's coat of arms and beer labels.
The restaurant "Skala" is decorated in a very original way. Life-size dolls in different places of the hall demonstrate the process of production, bottling and consumption of the famous Czech aged beer.
Not far from the restaurant there is a hotel where you can take warm beer baths.
We went on an excursion to Prague on our own, visiting the standard set of must-see attractions: Prague Castle, St. Witta, Golden Street, Charles Bridge, Wenceslas Square and Old Town Square with the Town Hall.
That's actually all that I remember...
Basic moments
In Karlovy Vary, 131 medical institutions use the wealth of nature for balneological and SPA procedures. The chemical composition of water is almost identical everywhere, but each source has a different level of carbon dioxide and temperature, varying between 30°-72°C. Thanks to this, healing sources have different effects on the body, which makes it possible to use their beneficial properties for various ailments.
Karlovy Vary is inhabited by 49,046 people (as of 2017), of which about 7% are immigrants. This fabulous city has an elusive and unique atmosphere. The buildings are united in architectural style, but at the same time each is unique in its own way. They are located on slopes of different heights and seem to compete with each other for the right to be called the most magnificent. Karlovy Vary is surrounded by protected forests and beautiful mountain peaks. Among the rocks lie the valleys of the Teplá and Ohře rivers. Ancient cathedrals, medieval fortresses, and castles have been preserved in the surrounding villages. It is not surprising that famous guests visited here at one time: Peter the Great, Prince P. A. Vyazemsky, N. V. Gogol, Wolfgang Goethe, Frederic Chopin, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, Johann Sebastian Bach, representatives of royal families.
Story
These places have been inhabited since prehistoric times. The founder of the resort city of Karlovy Vary is considered to be the most famous Czech king and at the same time the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. And this incident helped.
His Majesty loved to hunt, and each time in a new place. One day, chasing an animal, he and his retinue found themselves in this blessed land, the beauty of which amazed him. The dog continued to chase the game and suddenly fell into a pond, screeching furiously. The hunters thought it was from fear. But in fact, she... got burned, because the spring gushing from the ground turned out to be hot. Everyone, of course, was surprised by this miracle. But what struck most of all was the almost instantaneous relief in the legs that the king felt. He rinsed them with water from a hot spring, and the pain that had tormented him for many years subsided.
Nature of Karlovy VaryAfter a fabulous healing, Charles IV ordered the construction of defensive structures here and the founding of a natural hospital for members of the royal family.
The poem “Ode to the Geyser” by the Czech poet Boguslav Gasinstein, written in 1500, has survived to this day. In 1522, Dr. W. Payen wrote a treatise on treatment with local waters, which, although disputed by many of his contemporaries, aroused great interest among the general public.
In 1604, the Gothic city of Karlovy Vary (then called Carlsbad in German) was destroyed by fire. During the Thirty Years' War with the Swedes, many magnificent fortresses in the area were barbarously burned and plundered. The resort did not develop.
What to bring as a souvenir
The most famous souvenir from Karlovy Vary is, of course, Becherovka, an alcoholic drink infused with 20 herbs. It is jokingly called "mineral spring No. 13." The recipe, which has remained unchanged since 1807, is kept in the strictest confidence. You can purchase the drink in the museum, which is located at the plant, after tasting several types. Original (38% alcohol) and Lemond (20% alcohol) are exported. The manufacturer offers KV 14 (39%), red liqueur and Cordial (35%), linden blossom liqueur - these drinks are sold only in the Czech Republic.
The famous waffles are made... right on the streets of the city. They are called payments. They can be purchased in beautiful souvenir boxes. A wide variety of mugs with long spouts are sold in Karlovy Vary at every turn.
The products of the Moser plant - real works of art made of glass - will be a wonderful gift and souvenir. These are not only glasses and beer mugs, but also wonderful vases, salad bowls, and colored glass figurines.
You can take with you a bottle of mineral water or the famous natural Karlovy Vary salt, which is obtained by evaporation. It consists of 44% sodium sulfate, 36% sodium bicarbonate, 18% sodium chloride and approximately 2% potassium sulfate. This salt contains small amounts of iron and fluorine, calcium and lithium, magnesium and bromine compounds.
Mobile communications and Internet
Some tour operators offer a SIM card when purchasing a tour. If you are planning a trip on your own, you can contact the offices of the following operators:
- Vodafone (convenient to top up via ATM around the clock, discounts on weekends);
- Global SIM or Sim Travel (Estonian number, works in many countries of the world, incoming calls are free);
- MTT, MTTalk – option with Internet telephony.
The second option is to purchase a SIM card from local mobile operators: T-Mobile, Vodafone and others. Incoming calls are free. They also offer mobile Internet services. All hotels provide free Wi-Fi.
How to get there
The international airport is located 4.5 km from the Karlovy Vary resort. There are direct flights from Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg, Samara and Tyumen. You can also get there by train from Moscow, from the Belorussky railway station. The train arrives at the upper railway station.
The journey from Prague by bus takes about two hours. Buses depart daily from the bus station (Florence metro station). Flights every half hour to hour. The last one is at 21-30. The ticket price is around 170 Czech crowns. Student Agency is considered the most inexpensive carrier; the transport is recognizable due to its bright yellow color. You should take care of tickets in advance. This is a very popular destination; there are many people wanting to take the morning flight.
You can get there by train from the Main Railway Station of the capital of the Czech Republic, but the journey will take 3.5 hours. The ticket price is almost twice as much.
A private carrier will cost a tourist 90 euros. The journey to Karlovy Vary takes less than two hours. Renting a car is an extremely convenient option for travelers. It will cost 30-40 euros per day (not taking into account the cost of fuel).
A trip to quiet and peaceful Karlovy Vary is a real relaxation for the soul and a healing balm for the body. For Russian tourists, this Czech resort has become “native” since tsarist times. From time immemorial, aristocrats and intellectuals flocked here for treatment.
Today Karlovy Vary has worthy balneological traditions, excellent service in well-equipped hotels and, of course, numerous hot springs that can improve health and cure numerous ailments. Local sanatoriums offer various health programs to suit every taste.
Also, the city surroundings are of great interest. There are medieval castles, picturesque canyons on the wooded slopes of the river and numerous well-maintained trails to contemplate all this splendor.
The best hotels and inns at affordable prices.
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What to see and where to go in Karlovy Vary?
The most interesting and beautiful places for walks. Photos and brief description.
There are about 70 mineral springs in Karlovy Vary, but only 12 are believed to have healing qualities. Each is intended for the treatment and prevention of a specific group of diseases. The water temperature ranges from 30°C to 70°C. Picturesque colonnades were erected around the thermal springs in the 19th-20th centuries, which protected them from the influence of the external environment.
The tower is located on top of Druzhba Hill. Tourists can get there by cable car, or spend half an hour and walk along the hiking trail. The observation deck of the tower offers panoramic views of the wooded green hills that surround Karlovy Vary. In addition to the tower itself, there is a cafe, a restaurant on the hill, as well as benches and comfortable places to relax.
The structure was erected at the end of the 19th century; it is the oldest observation deck in Karlovy Vary. It is interesting that in 1945 the tower was named in honor of I. Stalin, but already in the 60s. renamed. A staircase consisting of 165 steps (42 meters high) leads to the top of the building. Many objects of the Goethe Tower were restored only in 2002 with the active participation of F. Gaspra, who wanted to make the appearance of Karlovy Vary more attractive.
An elegant castle built during the reign of Charles IV. Initially, it was assumed that the building would be used as a hunting lodge, but after construction was completed, the local aristocracy began to organize holidays, balls and lavish receptions here. In 1604, the castle was destroyed by fire, but a new tower was soon erected. The structure of the 17th century has survived to this day. Now there is a restaurant on the territory of the Castle Tower.
Glass building erected in the 70s. XX century according to the project of J. Otruba. The colonnade is located near the Vřídlo spring, which bursts out of the ground with a powerful hot stream (2 thousand liters of water/min.) Due to the high temperature, it is impossible to stay near the geyser for a long time. In the colonnade, in addition to the hall with the source, there is a large hall where souvenirs, dishes and Bohemian glass are sold.
A picturesque colonnade, built in the 19th century in the neo-Renaissance style with elegant Empire elements. It consists of 124 monumental columns supporting a façade with bas-reliefs by V. Lokvenets. Inside the Mill Colonnade there are mineral springs “Prince Vaclav”, “Melnichny”, “Rusalka”, “Libuše” and “Skalny”. The water temperature in the springs ranges from 45°C to 64°C.
The structure was erected in 1883 from wood and was supposed to last only a few years before something more impressive was built. But it lasted for more than 100 years. At the end of the 20th century, city authorities decided to completely reconstruct it, and now tourists have the opportunity to admire the restored landmark. There are two springs inside – “Market” and “Charles IV”. Just behind the Market Colonnade is the Castle Tower.
The colonnade was erected in 1880 according to the design of G. Helmer and F. Fellner. These two architects made a great contribution to the appearance of Karlovy Vary. In the middle of the 20th century, the pavilion was dismantled and only the frame with columns remained from the building. However, in 2002, the historical appearance was restored. Now the Garden Colonnade is a real decoration of the city. Inside there are the “Svoboda”, “Zmeiny” and “Sadovy” springs.
An architectural structure in the Art Nouveau style, erected at the beginning of the 20th century according to the design of the Viennese architect F. Oman. At the beginning of the 21st century, the colonnade was renovated with funds from the Castle Spa hospital, because of this, many objects became available only to clients of this institution. Everyone can drink the healing water from the source, but admiring the magnificent interior decoration of the Castle Colonnade is available only to tourists living in the Castle Spa.
Temple of the 18th-19th centuries, built according to the design of K. Dientzenhofer. The first church in the Gothic style appeared on this site in the 15th century; it belonged to the Order of the Crusaders. Later, the building was rebuilt in the Renaissance style, which was more fashionable and progressive at that time. Subsequently, the temple was damaged more than once during wars and fires, and as a result, by the 18th century, the building almost collapsed. The restoration was completed by 1861.
A functioning Orthodox church, built in the 19th century according to the design of D. Ukhtomsky. It was the first Orthodox Church on the territory of the Austrian Empire. Due to the war, the church was closed in 1916; services resumed only in the middle of the 20th century. A complete reconstruction was carried out in the 1980s. Since then, the building has been maintained in excellent condition thanks to the efforts of local authorities.
The famous drink “Becherovka” is revered and loved in the Czech Republic, sometimes it is even called the “thirteenth spring” of Karlovy Vary. It is used as a medicine and an ingredient in many cocktails. The Becherovka production company was founded by local pharmacist Jan Becher. A museum named after him was opened in Karlovy Vary in 1992. During the tour, visitors can taste the drink with different flavors, learn its history and buy souvenirs.
The museum complex includes three buildings, since fewer were not enough to accommodate the extensive exhibition. Archaeological finds, art and everyday objects, documents, geological exhibits related to the history of Karlovy Vary are exhibited here. The museum was founded in 1865 on the initiative of the Austrian doctor and expert in the field of balneology J.V. von Loeschner.
The Moser glass factory was built in Karlovy Vary in 1875. He is engaged in the production of products from Bohemian glass - a famous brand, famous throughout the world for its high quality. In the factory museum you can see an exhibition consisting of the most valuable and rare specimens produced at different times at Moser. You can also familiarize yourself with all stages of glass production.
The museum exhibits contemporary works of art created by Czech sculptors and artists in the second half of the 20th century. The permanent exhibition contains about 150 works in the style of cubism, expressionism and fauvism. The gallery often hosts temporary exhibitions, as well as performances and concerts. The building was built in 1912 in neoclassical style.
The theater building was built in the 19th century according to the design of G. Helmer and F. Fellner. Previously, there was a wooden building in its place, which collapsed during a fire in 1787. The inspiration for raising funds for the construction of the theater was one of the founders of balneology in Karlovy Vary - D. Becher. The wonderful enchanting opera by W. A. Mozart “The Marriage of Figaro” was performed as the premiere production.
A heated swimming pool, open at any time of the year, which is located on the territory of the Thermal Hotel. The water in it is not medicinal, but rather ordinary, so everyone can swim. The pool has a fitness club, sauna, solarium and massage room. The length of the pool from side to side is 50 meters, depth is up to 4.5 meters. The pool offers magnificent views of the surrounding hotels and the surrounding hills.
The sanatorium is located in a building from the early 18th century, which is one of the most picturesque architectural structures in Karlovy Vary. Famous musicians, royalty, representatives of aristocratic families, cultural figures and other famous people have been guests of the Pupp Hotel. Every year the hotel hosts an international film festival, which attracts world-class stars.
Four-star hotel, built in classical style at the beginning of the 20th century. The hotel is surrounded by a magnificent park, which has its own theater stage. The interior of the Imperial is dominated by discreet luxury and calm notes of Art Nouveau style. There is also a cinema, a concert hall and spacious auditoriums for seminars. The hotel's resort restaurant serves national and international cuisine, and you can also choose from 9 dietary menu options.
The castle is located near Karlovy Vary. There is some debate about the date of its foundation, but experts point to the 13th century. The building is a harsh medieval fortress with thick walls and narrow loopholes. Presumably, Loket was erected as a border fort that separated German and Czech possessions. The castle rises on the banks of the Ohře River.
An architectural structure of the 16th century, erected during the reign of Vladislav II. The castle changed owners many times. The greatest prosperity occurred in the period 1695 - 1733. The castle park was created under the influence of the traditions of Italian landscape design. The church, built in the 18th century according to the design of Giovanni Rossa, deserves special attention. The last owner of Valecha was Count Larisch-Mennich, then the property went to the state.
A castle in the Czech Baroque style, located on the rocky bank of the Tepla River. It is believed that the structure was erected in the 13th century. Over the next two centuries, the castle was owned by different families until it was captured by the Swedes during the Thirty Years' War. In the second half of the 17th century and in the 19th century, major reconstructions were carried out. Bečov nad Teplou became state property in 1945.
A picturesque city park, which was created at the end of the 19th century. Trees over 200 years old grow on its territory. The gardens were named in honor of the Czech composer A. Dvorak; a monument to the maestro adorns one of the alleys of the park. It should be noted that visitors are allowed not only to stroll gracefully along the paths and sit on benches, but also to walk on the lawns, which makes the park attractive to most residents and guests of Karlovy Vary.
A picturesque canyon in the Ohře River valley, where you can admire the natural beauty of the surroundings of Karlovy Vary. This natural site is included in the list of specially protected areas in the Czech Republic. There are many legends associated with Svatoshki Rocks. At one time, they inspired the brothers Grimm, Goethe, Kerner and Spiess to create poetic literary works.
A low rock on top of which a statue of a chamois was placed in 1851. The metal sculpture was created by August Kiss. Unfortunately, in 1984 the figure was damaged by vandals. Two years later, the sculptor J. Kotek created a bronze copy, which now crowns the top of the hill. “Reindeer Leap” is one of the symbols of Karlovy Vary. There is an observation deck near the statue, which is very popular among tourists.
Peter the Great opened Karlovy Vary for the Russian nobility. He not only rested here, but also forged horseshoes.
Everywhere you look there are mountains and mountains, dark green with lush, rich foliage, and below, as if in a deep oblong thicket, the famous city of Karlovy Vary, the former Carlsbad, is cramped and neatly located. The houses, like swallows' nests, huddle together, they are all different, attractive, old European buildings, and they have, perhaps, only one thing in common - red tiled roofs. The Tepla River divides the center of the town into two halves, pedestrian bridges connect the streets, or rather boulevards, running along the banks.
Karlovy Vary is a world resort. The Tepla River (warm, that is) is the culprit of its appearance. This was six centuries ago. People noticed that the water in the river and in numerous springs around was not only warm, but also very useful and healing. First they bathed in it, took baths, then they began to drink. The healers of that ancient time, in order to improve the stomach and generally heal many diseases, ordered to drink nine liters of this mineral water a day for a whole week while lying in bed. And finish the treatment with long hot baths.
Over time, the treatment became simpler; people were supposed to take water, as they do now, only three cups a day, an hour before meals. The resort's fame grew. He was becoming fashionable. Wealthy famous people flocked here from many countries.
And for the Russian nobility, Karlovy Vary was opened by Peter the Great. He came here twice: in 1711 and 1712. He lived near the old Town Hall in the house of the pharmacist Becher. He took treatment seriously. But he also managed to have some fun. The townspeople greeted him enthusiastically and warmly. And the memory of him has been preserved to this day. In Karlovy Vary there is Peter the Great Street, an Orthodox church in his honor, and a relief on the house he helped build. The horseshoe he forged is also imprinted into the wall; both the snuff box and the legs for the table, which he turned at a local turner, are intact. The resort house "Peter" has been operating for a long time, where there is no end to visitors.
Life begins early in the village in Karlovy Vary. It’s not even six o’clock, and everywhere is already busy, people are flocking to bus stops, those close to them, walking, riding bicycles. Maybe there is a special order or it’s a tradition, but everyone, as if by agreement, moves with as little noise as possible, you can’t hear any loud conversations, no laughter, no signals: holidaymakers and tourists are still sleeping, we need to protect their peace.
And soon, one after another, small shops, snack bars, bistros, grill bars begin to open, on the doors of which “Grillovina Kurata” is brightly and catchily written, the smells of coffee, vanilla and generally various delicious foods spread in the fresh morning air. You can quickly grab a bite to eat anywhere, and if there’s nowhere to rush, you can simply watch the multilingual audience and bask in the gentle sun. The tables are right on the street, some under umbrellas, others without umbrellas. In a few minutes you will be served whatever you order: bacon or Magyar goulash, salads, fish, white or red wine, and, of course, Czech beer, perhaps the best in the world. Served in a Mosel glass mug, on a cardboard stand with the image of the brave soldier Schweik.
The resort of Karlovy Vary annually welcomes more than three million people. This is a lot for a small town.
A considerable part of our population is engaged exclusively in service, maintenance,” Deputy Mayor Jan Jurcha, who speaks decent Russian, told me. - And our food products are local, from our close lands. We import only overseas fruits and rare vintage wines. Good Russian vodka and Armenian cognac are in special demand, as are our “Bekherevka” and “Borovichka”. The largest sanatorium "Imperial" is considered Russian. Immediately after the end of the war, it was mainly your people who rested and were treated here. The city has many problems, the buildings are aging and require repairs. Something needs to be changed, but the center of the resort, its appearance, cannot be touched - this is history, tradition, brand.
On Peter the Great Street there is a villa of the Czechoslovak Literary Foundation, where my wife and I lived for four years in a row. The building is maintained by two people: a husband and wife. Their apartment is right there. The cleanliness is kept perfect. When entering, you must leave your shoes downstairs and put on slippers. Even the dog Klops is accustomed to wait in wet weather for his owner, six-year-old Elenka, to wipe his paws.
On many houses you can see cast iron boards with inscriptions: celebrities lived here. Every time I go to the center, I look into the windows of Ivan Sergeevich Turgenev’s apartment. In the evening a carriage was given to him, and he went to the Pupp Hotel for a friendly meeting with Alexei Konstantinovich Tolstoy. And at this time, at the same hour, the German merchant Marx was walking near the neighboring house. The same world-famous Karl Marx, who signed up as a merchant for conspiracy.
Guests expressed their admiration for the local resort in different ways: music, paintings, poetry, expensive offerings to temples, gifts from the mayor's office. The actress Maria Savina and the peasant of the Yaroslavl province of the Poshekhonsky district Vasily Aikritovich Khlapov (and how did he get here!) cast metal boards with brief inscriptions, and the ataman of the Cossack troops Platov, back in 1815, left the following verses in the metal:
Carlsbad - the reason for these inscriptions
For all grateful hearts,
Carlsbad is a beautiful picture
Sample for painters
The last outstanding Russian guest in Karlovy Vary was academician Ivan Pavlov. He lived very modestly and piously, attracting people with his accessibility and kindness. This was already under Soviet rule in the twenties, and the academician apparently saved every penny of the small amount that he was given for treatment.
After a week you get used to Karlovy Vary as if it were your own home. It's comfortable and peaceful here. It seems that there is always a blue sky hanging over the town, coolness flows from the mountains, spreading chestnut trees create shade on the lawns where children play. And the birds are pouring in from morning to night, the bees are circling over the flower beds.
And on the central colonnade, where there are several springs with mineral water, music plays almost every day. Most often military brass bands. People, walking or sitting on benches, drink water from mugs with a long spout and listen to waltzes and marches. These are mainly works by composers who rested and received treatment here. Look, some old lady in heels, who was here back in the days when Karlovy Vary was called Carlsbad, taps her foot to the beat of the melody and smiles. And tears are rolling from her eyes from a joyful feeling.
Evenings are nice in Karlovy Vary. The sun has rolled down behind the mountains, and the sky is still bright, lonely clouds, colored by sunset rays, burn like lanterns, the smell of flowers becomes thicker, the streets are gradually empty. A measured, quiet bell ringing floats over the roofs of houses. This is the beginning of the service in the Russian Church of Peter the Great. People slow down their steps, look at the golden domes, listen to the ringing, which emanates stability and peace; a peaceful grace falls on the heart from this ancient folk music.
We go out for a walk to the Tepla River, to the boulevards, to the bridge where tourists feed fish and drakes. Well-fed, spoiled fish, half a meter or more in length, barely move their fins and are reluctant to take crumbs. The guests also feed the famous duck with nine ducklings. The duck became famous because she managed to raise a family in a drained old pond, where there was very little water left. Vacationers of different nationalities began to take care of the brood. Someone saw a huge cat approaching the ducklings. And there was a rumor that supposedly the mayor of the city decided to hire a watchman to protect the ducklings while they grew up. They believed this rumor right away, because the nature of the park city is lovingly and strictly monitored here.
We are leaving Karlovy Vary by train. On the way, I will remember a rare hospitable city where three or four weeks fly by unnoticed. You look out the carriage window and think: oh, God willing, I wish I could be here one more time and live longer.
Yuri GRIBOV Karlovy Vary - Moscow.
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Link code: Karlovy Vary (website)