The most amazing thing about Patagonia is the fact that it actually exists. Patagonia: an unforgettable trip Self-guided trip to Argentina and Patagonia

Argentina has not yet been spoiled by Russian tourists, and that makes it even more attractive to them. It’s no joke, almost a 20-hour flight. Not everyone can afford such a trip. Perhaps, if it were not for such remoteness, Latin American countries would be among the first on the routes of Russian travelers. Believe me, there is something to see and be surprised there. Today we will tell you how to plan an independent trip to Argentina.

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Routes to the natural attractions of Argentina are always planned as an independent, separate trip, requiring calculation of time and budget.

More detailed information Read about the most in our article.

Many travelers consider this place to be the main natural attraction of Argentina. It's hard to argue. It’s hard to surprise northern Russians with the glaciers and snow of Patagonia; the salt lakes and mountains of Salta are not new to connoisseurs, but Iguazu Falls will amaze even the experienced.

They are located on the border of Brazil and Argentina and can be reached from both sides. A round trip plane ticket from Buenos Aires will cost you approximately $300-400. By bus you will spend a little less money, but the journey will take almost 18 hours. The choice is yours.

Already upon approaching you will see, or rather, guess that you are seeing the main waterfall “Dragon’s Throat”. Steam will billow from the green mass of the trees and rise into the sky. The town of Iguazu itself is the antipode of the prim capital, small, truly Latin American with brick-red soil under your feet.

The national park is open to visitors from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. By purchasing a ticket that comes with a map, you can take a special train to the main waterfall. True, there are several trains running through the park, but the routes are easy to figure out. There are signs along the trails to help tourists, and park employees flash by every now and then, always wanting to help.

Observation platforms are located both on the upper path and along lower route. From the upper path there is a stunning panoramic view of all the cascades, and you feel like a bird, and from the lower path you can observe the walls of water from below, fully realizing the powerlessness of man in front of this power.

El Calafate and El Chaltén

IN southern part Patagonia, to the El Calafate area, about 4 hours flight from Buenos Aires. Here, additional luggage inspection is carried out, since you are entering an environmentally friendly zone with its own rules. The main goal of all visitors is national park Los Glaciares with a unique natural attraction, the Perito Moreno glacier. Remember: there are restrictions on entry tickets, and they are sold only upon presentation of a passport. The park is open until 18:00. Buses to the glacier depart 2 times a day (08:15, back at 16:00, and 13:00, back at 19:30).

It would seem, what can surprise the icy land? But starting a walk from one observation deck to another, you gradually begin to understand why your pace is slowing down. The icy power is amazing! Fans of mountaineering and trekking immediately purchase tickets to El Chaltén. The town itself is located on the territory of Los Glaciares, in its northern part. Transfers to El Chaltén run 3 times a day (08:00, 13:00 and 18:30).

The bus will take you to the administration building, where you will be given instructions and familiarized with possible routes. It must be said right away that for the completeness of all sensations, physical endurance and dexterity are very important here. In order to be transported to the pages of the novel “The Children of Captain Grant” not mentally, but to personally verify the beauty of the local nature, it is even worth overcoming yourself.

The color and magic of Argentine cities

Salta. A resort, vibrant Argentine city, founded at the end of the 14th century as a resting place for trade caravans heading to Buenos Aires. This picturesque and fabulously beautiful place also attracts with its history. Pilgrims come here to worship the healing statue of the Virgin Mary, located in one of the halls Cathedral Salta. And for tourists, one of the most popular trips from this town is considered to be the “Train in the Clouds” (a trip to a town lost at an altitude of 4000 meters, taking 14 hours).

Salta is connected by air to both Buenos Aires and Cordoba, and by bus to many other Argentine cities.

Cordoba. The second major Argentine city after the capital. For architecture connoisseurs, it will be more attractive than Buenos Aires, since the flavor of the colonial era has been preserved here with greater authenticity.

Mar del Plata. Known to fans beach holiday Argentine resort located 400 km from the capital. Extent and variety coastline attracts both lovers of solitude and partygoers.

Patagonia is a country of glaciers, lakes, islands, canals, fjords, mountain rivers, thousand-year-old forests and knocking winds... All the most interesting things in Patagonia are located along the shores of the oceans - Pacific and Atlantic - and along the chain of the Andes. You can drive hundreds of kilometers and not see anyone or anything at all.

Even the marked settlements on the map do not give confidence that there is active life in these places. Often it's just a couple of houses plus single animals nearby. All of Patagonia is cut into pieces like a pie, surrounded by wire fences. Moreover, no one lives in these endless territories except rabbits, sheep and guanacos. In the best case, after 200-300 kilometers you will come across a lonely farm, and that’s it. The distance between gas stations can easily reach 400-450 kilometers... However, first things first. So, we decided to start our journey through Patagonia from its southernmost point - Tierra del Fuego...

When you find yourself in this place, everything becomes clear without signs...

WEATHER TOTALIZER
...The small town of Ushuaia, a hotel overlooking the Beagle Channel, hot coffee with fresh pastries and the feeling that adventure is beginning. However, our determination was slightly weakened when it turned out that snow, rain and strong winds were expected throughout the next week. Forecasts in Patagonia are unreliable, so locals don't pay much attention to them. True, some still place bets in bookmakers: whether it will come true or not. The climate in these places is harsh not only in winter, but also in summer. There are, of course, some days at the height of the season when the temperature rises above 15 degrees, but this is rather an exception. It's almost winter here polar night, it is relatively light only 4-5 hours a day. Glaciers descend from the mountains to the ocean and 300 days a year are usually rainy and cloudy. This is understandable, because from here to Antarctica is less than a thousand kilometers!

Penguins make nests between the roots of trees or dig holes right in the ground

There are up to 100 wives in the harems of fur seals, and everyone is loved

From a primitive whaling station in Indian territory, Ushuaia turned first into a convict colony where Russian anarchists lived out their days, and then into a modern tourist center. There are hotels here for every taste and budget. Shops selling high-quality camping equipment coexist with cheap electronics stores. Restaurants serve huge crabs weighing up to two kilograms with impressive claws. Once upon a time, Indian women caught them with their bare hands, but now production is carried out on a commercial scale. Every year, thousands of tons of these delicious beauties are exported to Europe, the USA and other countries. In the restaurants there, the price of delicacies rises to the skies, and in Tierra del Fuego they feed crabs almost at cost. Today, Ushuaia resembles the Klondike of the Gold Rush. There are travel agencies on every corner, ready to organize a trip to anywhere in Patagonia. Some people go to see penguins and seals, others take an SUV and travel far from civilization. Fishermen specially come here from Europe and Australia for a rich catch, and extreme sports enthusiasts are attracted by excellent ski slopes and Antarctic diving.

Mountains, glaciers, guanacos and wild mustangs - a classic picture of Patagonia

Note for travelers
The best time to travel to Patagonia is the Argentine spring or summer, that is, from November to March. Although even in summer the air temperature usually does not exceed 18 degrees. And the wind, of course. Warm clothes will not be superfluous.
There are no direct flights from Russia to Argentina; there are several options for flying from Moscow to Buenos Aires with a transfer in Europe. Most convenient: daily flights Air France via Paris, Iberia via Madrid and Lufhansa via Frankfurt. Alitalia routes via Rome and British Airways routes via London are also possible. The average flight duration, including connections, is about 23 hours. The official language is Spanish. The time difference with Moscow is 7 hours.

PETS' CORNER
The first point of our program was sea animals. A fairly large colony of seals and sea lions has chosen one of the islands near the lighthouse “at the end of the world,” described by J. Verne and replicated on local souvenirs. Despite their heavy build, the animals turned out to be active and very aggressive. Growling from time to time, the males gave each other a fair beating. The “young ladies” looked at this outwardly indifferently, turning first one side, then the other, but in their thoughts they probably imagined how they would make the winners happy.

Not far from the seals is the territory of the penguins. Magellanic penguins, and this is the most common species here, live in burrows, so the entire island is literally “mined” with pits, burrows and bird waste. There are a lot of penguins here, and you can watch them endlessly. Funny and clumsy, if they don’t like something, they start screaming hysterically and scurrying away at full speed. “Birds-people” are not at all afraid of people, and you can approach them at arm’s length. It was impossible to resist stroking the bird, but the attempt ended in failure: the penguin clearly did not like the familiarity, and, screaming heart-rendingly, he quickly and painfully pecked me. I had to limit myself to photography.

THE END OF THE WORLD
After getting acquainted with the animal world, it was time for auto adventures. We rented a Land Rover from one of the rental companies and headed to the national park. Tierra del Fuego", where mountains, sea, forests and glaciers are amazingly combined. Much of the park is inaccessible to visitors, with only a few permitted trails. You can also take a ride on an exotic prehistoric train, which at one time carried... prisoners here. This road is considered the southernmost narrow-gauge railway in the world. Now the train has been converted into a tourist attraction, but until 1947 there was a huge prison here, and in the future national park, convicts cut down forest. In general, this is the official End of the World, as the sign nailed to the sign says. After walking all day in the snow and rain, cursing all kinds of trekking, we decided that we would continue to travel exclusively by car. And the next morning we set out towards the large lake on Tierra del Fuego.

PATAGONIA-TROPHY
The good asphalt road ended after 50 kilometers, after which a dirt road began, gradually becoming worse and worse. After three dozen kilometers it ended too. The road simply turned into a deep rut. Periodically slipping and sliding into holes and puddles, overcoming beaver dams, we moved in a lower gear. We stormed slippery slopes and fell into ravines. Our guide Ignassio tried his best to impress and asked to drive. Having sat down in the driver's seat, he turned on the gear, opened the door and... left the cabin. Putting on a carefree face, he walked alongside her, whistling. But after several “Ladogas” you won’t surprise us so easily! And we started telling him about Russian off-road...

The water temperature in the mountain rivers of Patagonia does not exceed 7-10 °C

Soon we found ourselves on the shore of the lake - the destination of the route. The beauty was extraordinary! The forest was amazing: evergreen beeches interspersed with conifers, shrubs adjacent to deciduous trees. And what were the unusual flag trees worth, which changed the shape of their crown under the influence of constant winds... Autumn painted everything in bright colors, slightly softening them with pastels. The lush crowns were set off by beards of moss and lichen fanning out from the branches and trunks, and freshly fallen snow covered the ground like eider down. After driving a little more, we came across a “piano in the bushes” - a hunting hut with a stove and a couple of canoes, where we could rest while Ignassio was preparing asado, a favorite national dish.

National Argentine dish - asado

A set of araucaria branches on fire drives away evil spirits

Port of Ushuaia. From here cruise ships leave for Antarctica

Note for travelers
Russians do not need a visa to Argentina. A Chilean visa for 90 days can be obtained directly at the border - within 10 minutes and free of charge (for comparison: in Moscow it will take a month and cost 75 dollars). Please pay attention to your luggage: any foodstuffs are prohibited, especially vegetables and fruits. All things are checked and x-rayed. When renting a car in Argentina, be sure to notify that you will be going to Chile - they will provide you with the necessary set of documents.

The best way to travel around Patagonia is by SUV

KINGDOM OF ICE
After driving around Ushuaia for a week, we flew to the middle of Patagonia, to El Calafate - a small settlement on the shores of Lake Argentino. The glaciers here are truly unique: they begin to form at an altitude of 1500 meters and descend to 200 meters. While in other parts of the world, ice masses are born at an altitude of no lower than two and a half kilometers.

After a long rain the sun came out...

There seems to be endless Brownian motion in Calafate. For every local resident there is a shop, a restaurant, a chocolate shop and a travel agency. This is a tourist Mecca with excellent infrastructure. People come here for the glaciers, Fitzroy Peak, icebergs and a convenient opportunity to visit Chile. By the way, Chilean and Argentine glaciers are declared by UNESCO as World Heritage of Humanity. In terms of scale, they are third after Antarctica and Greenland. In Los Glaciares National Park, which translates as “glaciers,” there are as many as 48 of these giant “refrigerators”! Perito Moreno is the most spectacular and unforgettable in Patagonia. Its age is more than 30,000 years. The ice here is in constant motion - it advances indomitably. And at a decent speed - about two meters per day. A giant glacier as tall as an 18-story building and a tongue six kilometers long crosses almost the entire lake. The pristine silence is broken by the roar of blocks breaking off and turning into icebergs. The feeling that you are standing next to the open door of a giant freezer, from which centuries-old cold emanates. The color of the ice is unusual and changes depending on the time of day and light. In the morning and afternoon it is blue, in the evening it becomes dark blue. A glacier excursion is only possible with a guide and wearing climbing crampons. An unforgettable walk! And as a bonus at the end of the route - a glass of whiskey with a thousand-year-old ice cube or a sip of the purest glacial water.

Baby whale skeleton as long as a large bus

RUTA 40
The best way get to know Patagonia - cross it along the legendary and longest Pan-American Highway in the world. The length of this road is 48 thousand kilometers - more than the length of the equator! Starting in Tierra del Fuego and cutting through 15 countries, it ends almost in Alaska. Having once set off along this route from end to end, one American couple became so carried away that they rode for three years. On the way, their son was born and even managed to grow up a little. In Argentina, this road appears as Ruta 40. This is the ridge of the south from which the road “nerves” leading to cattle farms branch off. The Argentine part of “Pan America” is more than 5 thousand kilometers. It crosses 19 rivers, 27 passes, 13 lakes and salt marshes. Locals say that if you were able to drive it from north to south, then you saw the whole country. It must be said that Ruta 40 is not a highway at all: more than half of it is not covered with asphalt at all. Therefore, in almost every locality you will have three activities. The Pan-American Highway passes through 15 countries: finding a tire service, a gas station and a store. And most likely in this sequence - verified!

From El Calafate with glaciers to the El Chaltén National Park and the legendary Fitzroy Peak (3405 m) you can reach it along the 40th. At the very foot of Fitzroy is the town of El Chalten (translated as “smoking mountain”), the site of a settlement of the Tehuelche Indians. Before the Second World War, Fitzroy was considered one of the most inaccessible places in the south of the continent. Named after the captain of the HMS Beagle on which Darwin sailed, Fitzroy is one of the most difficult peaks in the world to climb. And either for reasons of increased extremeness, or from some other reason, there are no decent hotels or ATMs here. Even with cellular communication Problems. But there are campsites for 20-30 dollars and several bed & breakfasts for 50-80. Climbing was not part of our plans, and we limited ourselves to visiting several beautiful viewpoints in the mountains on the picturesque lakes Laguna de los Tres and Capri.

Note for travelers
In Chile and Argentina, American dollars are accepted for payment everywhere. Each store sets its own rate, sometimes it is unprofitable - pay attention. The dollar to Argentine peso ratio is 1 to 4. Credit cards are accepted in almost all stores and restaurants, but cash is preferred. You can often ask for a discount when paying in cash. And vice versa - in some places, when paying by card, 10% is added to the amount. There are ATMs, but not everywhere and only a few; some have a cash withdrawal limit of $150. Mobile communications work in cities, but in the prairies there is almost no connection.

SCARY BUT CUTE
The further route took us to Chile. Along the same road 40 from Calafate to the border is no more than 400 kilometers, however, most of the highway turned out to be gravel. The territory of the Chilean state is sandwiched between the Pacific coast and the Andes chain and is divided into three parts that are not interconnected. In order for residents of southern Chile to get to the central or northern part, they need to travel through Argentina, take a ferry or fly by plane. The Chilean part of Patagonia also has its own business card and pride - Torres del Paine National Park (Parque Nacional Torres del Paine). This is an extraordinary Andean mountain region, a biosphere reserve and a real treasure trove of wildlife. One of the most beautiful national parks protected by UNESCO. It owes its name to the granite “towers” ​​of Torres, more than 2 thousand meters high. Here, among the mountains and dozens of lakes and rivers, almost all the landscapes of Patagonia are collected: scrub plains, rain forests, Magellanic tundra and high desert. Not to mention glaciers, waterfalls, rainbows and other beauties. Hunting has been prohibited here for half a century, and the animals are almost not afraid of humans. Such a variety of animals and birds is probably not found anywhere else in Chile. Here you can see the condor - the world's largest bird of prey with a wingspan of up to three and a half meters. According to the famous book, a condor carried one of Captain Grant's children into the sky. However, Jules Verne knew nothing about condors. In real life, they are very shy and usually sit quietly and wait for some small lame hare.

As a little boy, in my dreams I dreamed of going to the ends of the earth with the heroes of Captain Grant's Children. I had no idea where exactly this region was located, but this only filled my ideas about it with fantasy. Patagonia, just from this word the heart begins to beat faster, igniting a spark of excitement in a real traveler who is in love with the endless purity of real nature, where, after traveling hundreds of kilometers, you will not meet a single person.

Patagonia. I have traveled almost 2500 kilometers and walked 55 km along trekking trails in the mountains of Argentina and Chile. I don’t have enough words to describe my delight, and the photograph, unfortunately, will not convey even a tenth of the emotions and feeling of the surrounding reality while being there.

Patagonia. The south of South America, then only Antarctica, but I will definitely go there another time. On an IL-76 performing regular flights to Antarctica and parked at Punta Arenas airport, I looked with an eye to the future.
Like a good trailer for a bright blockbuster, endless glaciers and turquoise-colored lakes are already visible from the airplane window, of course, if you sit by the port window on the way from Santiago.

Patagonia. Between Argentina and Chile, on endless roads with perfect surface, but with dozens of oncoming cars in a couple of hours. With small automobile border crossings between countries. I have so much that I want to tell and show, but today I will start with an overview announcement, after which you will definitely and consciously want to visit these incredible places.

On the way to Patagonia, I had wonderful layovers en route in modern Berlin, stylish Madrid and hot summer Santiago. My longest Dreamliner flight, 14 hours of endless fun. Then flight to Puerto Montt and further to Punta Arenas in the south of the Latin American continent. But I’ll tell you about all these nuances and details later, but today it’s ONLY NATURE. It was nature that became the main goal for me on this trip.

Often without mobile communications and almost always without the Internet. There is nothing here that distracts you from the pleasure of perceiving the PRESENT.

But first, let us remember how Jules Verne describes Patagonia in his unforgettable book “The Children of Captain Grant”: “The Argentine pampas extend from 29° to 40° south latitude. The word "pampas" is Araucanian and means "plain of grass." This name is perfect for this region. The mimosa thickets of its western part and the luxurious grasses of the eastern part give it a unique appearance. All this vegetation takes root in a layer of earth, under which lies red or yellow clayey sandy soil. The American pampas are as special a geographical phenomenon as, for example, the savannas of the Great Lakes Country or the steppes of Siberia. The continental climate of the pampas differs more harsh winter and a hotter summer than the climate of the province of Buenos Aires."

So, let's start with a picture from an airplane.
Be sure to sit next to the left window on your flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas.

When arriving in Punta Arenas, I highly recommend that you rent a car. Huge distances can be covered by car much faster than by bus, but, most importantly, you often want to stop here every 10-15 minutes, which would be impossible by bus.

I ordered a car through an aggregator ECONOMYBOOKINGS.COM .
And this is not for you to rent a car in Europe or the States... I will tell you about the nuances, roads, gas stations, special permission to cross the border to Argentina and other things in a separate post, but I note that communication with the rental company was carried out by the aggregator, which has a very efficient Customer Support.

The main roads in Patagonia have perfect surfaces and markings and virtually zero traffic.

They are both endlessly boring and incredibly interesting, an amazing combination.
Only a very strong side wind keeps me on my toes; I have never felt such a roll of the car while driving.

Secondary roads are gravel. All rental companies have a significantly higher deductible in case of car rollover or rollover; this is the most common accident on gravel roads.

Be sure to take the electric pump and repair kit with you from home.

And the small border crossings between Argentina and Chile are a completely separate and very interesting story :)

And local truck drivers are so harsh that they hang trophies on the back of their trucks:

The incredible Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina in Los Glaciares National Park.
With a very accessible infrastructure for tourists, you can almost touch the glacier with your hand.

The infrastructure of tourist bridges and paths reminded me very much of that at Iguazu Falls and also on the Argentine side, when inaccessible places become absolutely accessible to everyone.

The width of the Perito Moreno tongue is 5 km, average height- 60 m above the water surface. The average depth is 170 m, the maximum is 700 m. The speed of its movement is 2 m per day (approximately 700 m per year). However, the mass loss is approximately the same, so (not taking into account small deviations) the glacier tongue has not retreated or advanced for 90 years.

And what a piercing blue color the ice is! Especially in those places where another “10-story building” of ice has just broken off with a roar:

I thought that 1-2 hours would be enough here, but I spent almost the whole day walking along numerous bridges and paths. The glacier does not let go, it is impossible to look away, you look at this ice mass as if spellbound.

Top of Fitzroy. Someone wrote to me in the comments in response to my statement that the Swiss Matterhorn is the most photogenic peak in the world, that Fitzroy is still more interesting. Having seen both peaks, I can’t say for sure which one is more photogenic, but the fact that mountains in different parts of the planet are completely different is indisputable.

The Fitzroy summit was first seen by Francisco Moreno on March 2, 1877, during his travels in Patagonia. He named the peak in honor of Captain Robert Fitzroy, commander of the British brig Beagle, who made a major contribution to the exploration of the sea coast of Patagonia, Charles Darwin worked on board the Beagle.

The road to El Chaltén, a small town where trekking routes start in the Fitzroy area and to its foot.

There are excellent trekking routes here, but the travel time can be safely multiplied by 1.5-2, because you want to take pictures and stop almost every kilometer of the way.

After the last night at the Rio Negro campsite, you need to climb another 1.5 hours to the lakes and glaciers at the foot of Fitzroy. It takes your breath away, you want to scream with delight when you see these mountains at arm’s length:

And the Chilean side of Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park.

Here you can drive, walk, sail on a boat between the islands and to the glaciers. Changeable weather, thoroughly wet after a fresh spring shower, we walked up to the famous Torres battlements, and on the opposite side of the valley the bright sunset sun was shining:

Wake up at 4 am, get out of your warm sleeping bag and climb up the steep rocky slope again... To be the first to see the Torres light up.

I have not yet read how these mountains were formed, but I certainly have never seen such colors and such a structure of stone anywhere in the world.
Torres del Paine means "blue towers".

I often say that the most important thing in a hotel is the view from the window. But the most best view opens from the tent, of course!

Real wild nature near. Hares, hedgehogs, foxes, guanacos, rheas, many different birds. And penguins around Punta Arenas!
Even the woodpeckers in Patagonia are completely different!

It’s an indescribable thrill to bring a bottle of Chardonnay “Del Fin Del Mundo” (“Earth’s End”) with you in your backpack to the top and drink it during your hiking dinner!

In general, this is just an announcement... what follows will be incredibly interesting.
There will be several practical articles on how to organize such a trip to the End of the Earth on a very budgetary basis, because we only spent the night in a hotel once, the rest of the time we slept in a tent.

My partners on this incredible journey:

Credit card EVERYTHING from Renaissance Credit Bank .

This is an ideal card for travelers because it allows you to withdraw cash from any ATM in the world without commission!
And in addition, it opens a 62-day interest-free loan, which is also important when traveling, just in case.

To be continued...

In this article we will talk about how to prepare and what to take with you when planning a trip to Patagonia, as well as how to see the most interesting places region: forests, fjords and famous glaciers.

Southern Patagonia, stretching across the territories of Chile and Argentina, has been attracting travelers for many centuries with its remoteness from the rest of the world, huge centuries-old glaciers and stunning wild landscapes. Here, in various national parks you can see snow-capped mountains, fjords and virgin forests. At the southernmost tip of South America, huge icebergs thunder as they break away from a huge glacier that has hidden the land for centuries and float into the ocean.

Most Popular National parks, – Torres del Paine in Chile and Los Glaciares in Argentina are visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. For the most complete tour of Patagonia, it is best to visit both of these regions in one trip. Of course, such a trip will not be budget-friendly, especially at the height of the tourist season. So, we offer an action plan for organizing your trip to this remote corner of our planet.

How to travel in Patagonia

When to go

Most hotels in El Calafate and Torres del Paine are open to tourists only from spring to autumn (taking into account the difference in seasons with the southern hemisphere of the planet, this is mid-September and early May), and only a few of them are open all year round.

To avoid crowds of tourists and at the same time catch good weather, it is better to plan your trip in the spring, when the first flowers appear, or in the fall, when the leaves of the trees are colored red, orange and yellow. During the summer months (December-February) the weather is most comfortable, but keep in mind that temperatures rarely rise above 20°C and there is often strong wind.

Travelers should note that the weather in Patagonia is quite unpredictable, especially in spring and early summer. Temperatures can change dramatically, and a strong storm can come from the Pacific Ocean. When planning your trip, it is best to allow a few extra days in case of inclement weather.

How to get there

Since the territories of the countries of Chile and Argentina are quite large, you need to fly to Patagonia by plane (of course, if you do not have a few weeks left to travel by car or train).

During the peak tourist season (December-February), flights sell out quickly, so it's worth booking them as far in advance as possible: ideally six months before your trip. During other months of the tourist season (October, early May), you can book tickets three months in advance - this way you will avoid inflated prices and a limited choice of options.

In Chile LATAM Airlines flies south to Chilean Patagonia year-round, offering daily flights between Santiago and Punta Arenas. The flight time is just over 3 hours, the cost is from $130 round trip if you pre-book a ticket.

In addition, the same airline appears twice a week in December additional flight between Santiago and Puerto Natales (duration 3 hours 10 minutes), on the way back the plane stops at Punta Arenas. In January and February, the number of flights on this route increases to four per week, with ticket prices starting at $130.

The Chilean low-cost carrier Sky Airlines also offers direct flights from Santiago to Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas, but at more low prices. The cheapest tickets can be purchased by booking them in August. From December to March, Sky Airlines offers three flights per week from Santiago to Puerto Natales (costs from $70 when booked online). Two flights to Punta Arenas operate all year round: one direct and one connecting to Puerto Montt. During the tourist season, a third flight is added, its cost starts from $50 when booking online.

Between Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas the distance is three hours by car, between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park - two hours, and five hours between Punta Arenas and the park.

In the same time in Argentina The main gateways to Patagonia are the cities of El Calafate and Ushuaia. These destinations are served by LATAM Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas.

During the tourist season, LATAM Airlines offers daily flights from Buenos Aires to El Calafate (flight time 3 hours, 25 minutes). Ticket prices start from $340. There are also flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia for $515 with a flight duration of four hours.

The cost of a flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate and Ushuaia, as well as between El Calafate and Ushuaia on Aerolineas Argentinas aircraft is from $80. Los Glaciares National Park, home to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier, is an hour's drive from El Calafate Airport. Another popular destination– the town of El Chaltén, located three hours drive from El Calafate.

How to navigate the region

Included in the cost of living in most best hotels Southern Patagonia includes airport transfers as well as travel for daily excursions.

You can travel from Chile to Argentina and vice versa both by land and by sea. But, unfortunately, there are no direct flights between Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas and El Calafate or Ushuaia.

To travel by land, you will have to rent a car, find a guide with a car, or buy a bus ticket. Crossing the border between Argentina and Chile requires a five-hour drive across the Patagonian steppe from Cancha Carrera to Cerro Castillo. The way back is the same.

There are some good ones bus companies, offering tickets for buses on the route Puerto Natales - El Calafate: Buses Fernandez, Buses Sur, Buses Pacheco, Turismo Zaahj and Cootra. Buses depart every day at 7-9 am. The journey takes 5-7 hours, depending on the time spent going through customs control. Tickets cost from $80 to $130 per person and can be purchased either at the bus station or online. It is better to book tickets in advance, preferably a month before travel, especially during the tourist season.

By the way, there is a sea cruise route— Australis cruises. Travel from Punta Arenas (Chile) to Ushuaia (Argentina) starts at the end of September and lasts until the beginning of April. On this expedition, the ship passes through fjords, the most famous glaciers, crosses the Strait of Magellan and Cape Horn. Cost for three nights during the tourist season - from $1895 per person.

What to take with you

Since the temperature in Patagonia can drop from +20 degrees to -15 during the day, it is important to take appropriate clothing with you on your trip. On the road, take not only a waterproof jacket and comfortable boots, but also sunscreen and glasses - the sun shines very brightly here.

If you plan to stay in hotels overnight, a suitcase is quite suitable for your things; if you plan to go hiking, a backpack will do. On excursions and walks, it is better to take a small, comfortable backpack with you.

Take:

• Moisture-wicking thermal underwear
• Water-repellent hiking pants
• Light pullover or sweatshirt
• Fleece jacket or light down jacket
• Water-repellent warm jacket
• Sun cap
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• Gloves
• Waterproof Hiking Boots
• Long warm socks
• Insect repellent spray
• Flashlight
• Backpack for walks and excursions

Traveling Patagonia: What to do in Chile

Tourists come to Southern Patagonia to see the majestic beauty of nature in Torres del Paine National Park (entrance fee is $38) and five of the most interesting representatives of the animal world of Patagonia: pumas, Guanaco llamas, South Andean deer, Andean condors and rheas. Of course, other animals live in this region, such as flamingos, foxes, penguins and more than 100 species of birds. For example, there are safari tours in which tourists travel through a national park for several days and track down pumas.

Also, visitors to the park can explore untouched forests, see unusual South American nature (lenga, coihue, nyire), meet the royal woodpecker and emerald parrot.

A walk along the popular "W" route (so named for its shape) offers the opportunity to visit one-of-a-kind freshwater lakes that can disappear literally overnight, turquoise lagoons, icebergs floating in the ocean and glaciers shimmering in the sun. The total length of the “W” route is 70 kilometers; you can cover this distance in 4-5 days, visiting the main attractions of the park and staying overnight in campsites or refugios (houses for overnight travelers).

Explore the colorful fishing town of Puerto Natales and explore the maze of picturesque fjords with huge blocks of ice and mysterious marine life, which can be admired from the board of a pleasure boat.

Near Punta Arenas you can visit the penguin colony on Seno Otway Island or Magdalena Island, and see sea lions and whales peeking out of the water. Here you can also kayak across the Strait of Magellan and even charter a boat to Clarence Island for skiing in complete isolation from the rest of the world.

Where to Stay in Chilean Patagonia

The best hotels in Torres del Paine offer a complete package that includes airport transfers, a variety of excursions, and three meals a day with good wines and cocktails.

Various hotels are located both in the park itself and in surrounding towns. There are many options - from luxury rooms with spa treatments to eco-camping in the middle of the mountains.

A lot of good hotels located around the fishing town of Puerto Natales. You can even stay in a hotel near Cape Horn.

Local kitchen

Most hotels and private pensions offer excellent cuisine based on local products, for example, white strawberries, rhubarb, seaweed, Patagonian honey, guanaco, Patagonian hare. There are many seafood delicacies here: South American king crab, hake ceviche, conger eel, snook, stewed mussels and oysters. Order a Pisco sour cocktail or a bottle of vintage Chilean wine with dinner.

Day Trips in Chile

Hotels can usually find information about the many excursion options on offer for people of all fitness levels, including mountain hiking, horseback riding, biking, kayaking, fjord boating, glacier cruising and many other activities.

The most popular and most recommended activity is going to observation deck Torres del Paine. It's a challenging 8-hour round trip, but beautiful views mountain peaks and unusually picturesque natural landscapes will be your reward for your efforts.

Also one of the most popular routes is the hike to Mirados Las Torres. Tourists pass beautiful lake On foot, and then go out onto an area with picturesque mountain landscapes.

You can book a tour of Gray Lake and sail to the Glacier Gray glacier, or from the pier in Puerto Natales go to the Balmacedi and Serrano glaciers.

Spend a day with Chilean cowboys at the family-run Estancia Mercedes ranch. Here you can ride horses among the fjords throughout the day.

Tips for tourists traveling in Patagonia in Chile

When visiting Chile during the summer months, protect yourself from midge bites. Apply insect repellent spray regularly and wear light-colored clothing with long sleeves (for some reason, local midges are very attracted to dark fabrics).

If you are an avid traveler, you can avoid the crowds of tourists in Torres del Paine by visiting these places in November or April.

Take trekking poles with you on your hike - they will help on steep descents.

Traveling Patagonia: Things to do in Argentina

Every year, more than 100,000 people visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, which covers a 250 km² area in the Los Glaciares National Park (entrance fee $260) and is included in the list World Heritage UNESCO. Located near the town of El Calafate, this glacier is one of three glaciers in Patagonia that continue to grow and increase in size.

On boat excursions you have an amazing opportunity to see huge icebergs sliding from the Perito Moreno glacier into Lake Lago Argentino. Sometimes you can even go out onto the glacier and walk on it, wearing special metal shoe pads that prevent you from slipping on the ice.

History buffs can get acquainted with the rural life of the Patagonian ranch Estancia Cristina, where life stood still as it was a hundred years ago. There is beautiful nature here, great places for hiking, horse riding and, of course, a picturesque view of mountain glaciers.

Three hours by car from El Calafate is the small mountain village of El Chaltén. It is notable for the fact that next to it rises Mountain peak Fitzroy. Here you can find picturesque chalets, as well as ski slopes for skiers of all skill levels.

A trip to the province of Tierra del Fuego is a trip to the “end of the world.” Its capital, Ushuaia, is a port for ships traveling between Argentina and Chile. Order sea ​​excursion to see the penguins, sea lions and cormorants that inhabit the Beagle Channel, made world famous by the work of Charles Darwin, who visited the area during his voyage on the Beagle in 1831.

In Tierra del Fuego National Park, tourists will see a subarctic rain forest with huge beech trees, and from the Martial Glacier there will be panoramic views of Ushuaia and the canal. Anglers from all over the world travel to the banks of the Rio Grande River in hopes of catching the largest brown trout, a fish from the salmon family.

Where to Stay in Argentine Patagonia

The main street of the city, El Calafate, Avenue del Libertador General San Martín, has many nice shops and restaurants, but the rest of the city, unfortunately, lacks such charm.

We offer an overview of the nicest places to stay.

El Calafate has two good hotels located on south coast Lakes of Lago Argentino are Esplendor Calafate and Xelena.

Eolo Lodge is a 30-minute drive from El Calafate, but it occupies a huge area in the pampas and has excellent views of the lakes. Heavy antique furniture creates a cozy atmosphere for guests. Here you can also book excursions, mountain biking and bird watching. The hotel offers excursions to the Perito Moreno and Uppsala Glaciers.

Alternatively, travelers can take a tour from El Calafate or simply spend a few nights at Estancia Cristina, an early 20th-century ranch that raises sheep and offers boating opportunities on Lake Lago Argentino. The ranch occupies a huge area with the natural landscape of Patagonia, here you can go hiking, ride ATVs, sail on a schooner among the icebergs near the Glacier Glacier Uppsala. Meanwhile, keen fishermen can horseback ride to the glacial lakes near the hotel to fish for rainbow trout.

Nibepo Aike is a real ranch built by a Croatian pioneer at the turn of the 20th century. Cattle and sheep are still raised here, and guests are invited to feel like a real cowboy and leave the lasso, and for dinner, try asado - a traditionally prepared lamb dish. In the evening, guests can admire the Gorra, Frias and Dixon glaciers.

Between the villages of El Chaltén and El Calafate, the Estancia Helsingfors hotel is located - a village house on the shores of Lake Viedma with excellent cuisine and excellent views of the mountain landscapes.

Estancia El Condor is located five hours from El Calafate near Lake San Martin. The hotel was named due to the fact that condors nest in these places.

Los Cerros is located on the slopes of the mountains in El Chaltén. Aguas Arribas Lodge, an hour's drive from El Chaltén, is a secluded lakeside retreat with views of Mount Fitzroy.

To Ushuaia best places for accommodation – hotels Los Cauquenes and Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa. There are excellent views of the Beagle Channel.

Local kitchen

Most hotels offer full board with three meals a day, but at the same time there are some local delicacies that are worth trying.

The town of El Calafate gets its name from the berries of the boxwood barberry, the national symbol of Patagonia, known here simply as califate berries. There is a local legend that whoever eats califate berries will definitely return to Patagonia. Califate is used to make ice cream, liqueur and delicious jams.

Tasting a real Patagonian asado is a “must-do” when visiting these places. Watch how to cook lamb asado over an open fire, with a glass of Patagonian Pinot Noir or Mendocinean Mablec in hand...

The Kaupe restaurant in Ushuaia is considered one of the best in Argentina.

The Cerveceria Beagle bar brews its own beer, using meltwater from nearby glaciers.

Probably the most famous Argentine drink in the world is mate. There is a real ritual of preparing and drinking mate tea (a mixture of dried herbs rich in caffeine): the tea leaves, poured into a hollowed out pumpkin or wooden cup, are poured with boiling water through a metal tube - bombilla. If the drink turns out to be too bitter, add a little sugar.

Day trips in Argentina

A trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park is one of the most popular excursions in Patagonia.

There are day-long river excursions, during which tourists sail by boat across Lago Argentino and visit the Glaciar Uppsala, Spegazzini and Perito Moreno glaciers.

The excursion to Estancia Cristina includes boat rides near various glaciers and waterfalls.

Cañadon de los Fosiles is a five-hour hike along a route with scenic views of the lakes and Glacier Uppsala, and then descends into a valley where you can discover many fossils of ancient animals and plants.

From El Chaltén you can go on various walks through unusually picturesque places. The climb to the top of Cerro Torre takes 6 hours, a more difficult route to Mount Fitzroy and Laguna de los Tres lake. You can even go ice skating at the top of the Glaciar Viedma glacier.

In Tierra del Fuego you can explore the life of the flora and fauna of the Beagle Channel or visit Tierra del Fuego National Park with its picturesque panoramic landscapes.

Tips for tourists traveling to Patagonia in Argentina

Some hiking routes to the glacier may have age restrictions - from 18 to 50 years.

If you are planning to visit Estancia Cristina, please note that the boat here leaves from El Calafate early in the morning and returns late in the evening.

If you want to avoid the influx of tourists, visit El Chaltén in November or April.

Camping equipment is expensive in Argentina, so it's best to take it with you.

“Bienvenido a la Patagonia” (“Welcome to Patagonia”) reads the sign at Balmaceda Airport in Chile. There is something thrilling about this invitation not to a country or a city, but to a landscape that stuns the imagination, a place of myth-filled memoir and legendary exploration. An invitation to the region where Charles Darwin and Robert Fitzroy, William Henry Hudson and the Welsh colonialists, Antoine de Saint-Exupery and Bruce Chatwin - where they all made life-changing journeys.

There is still no agreement on where the fertile steppes of the Pampas end and the barren Patagonia begins, but for most people the northern border of Patagonia is the Colorado River. This is from the Argentina side. In Chile, the border runs much further south, roughly around the island of Chiloé, where the lake region dries up and the rugged coastline of Palena begins.

Patagonia is a huge triangle in southern South America - about 400,000 square miles ( approximately 1,035,996 square kilometers – approx. translator) – three quarters of which are in Argentina. The southernmost point is the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. The name Patagonia comes from the word “patagones”, a name local residents Tehuelche was given by Ferdinand Magellan at the beginning of the 16th century. It may have meant "large feet", but it is more likely that it was an allusion to the "dog-headed monster" from the Spanish chivalric romance Primaleon. Be that as it may, a mysterious-sounding name was chosen for the distant land.

And it's a fitting title. Patagonia comes down to a flight of fancy. Oddly enough, it is home to perhaps the seventh largest desert in the world. It is also home to a mostly flat strip of steppes and plateaus, occupying the largest part of Argentine Patagonia and affecting the Chilean provinces of Aisén and Magallanes. The province of Magallanes is home to two impressive glaciers, traces of the last ice age that crossed the Andes. Eastern Patagonia has the strongest winds in all of South America, while the west has some of the most beautiful wet tropical forests on the planet.

Patagonia is one of the wonders of the world. Its main features - the Torres del Paine National Park, southern right whales, which can be seen from the Peninsula Valdés, the Perito Moreno glacier - make a deep impression, but can detract from the grandiose and the diverse nature of the terrain of this region as a whole. For some travelers, the most memorable moments will not be the photogenic places recognized as the best, but the road between them: a huge dome of the sky, tufts of grass making their way through the desert, a lonely guanaco ( type of llama - approx. translator), watching from the top of the hill.

Some of these places deserve to be included in the list of untouched places in South America. From a practical point of view, tourism in this region is varied: off-road travel, golf, salmon fishing, cruising, horse riding, quad biking or skiing. If you need a break, the remote (but increasingly luxurious) cattle farms are the perfect opportunity to read, drink good (Patagonian) wine and dine on delicious roast lamb. But keep in mind that Patagonia is a unique place on Earth that requires calmness and the desire to move slowly. Geological time slows down here and hasty travelers will miss everything that matters.

When is the best time to go?

In the south of the fortieth parallel in South America, the climate is temperate and truly harsh winter period. Best months for travel: from November to March (summer in the southern hemisphere). At this time, the average daily temperature fluctuates around 20 degrees in the Bariloche area and 13-15 degrees in Ushuaia and Punta Arenas. On the Argentina side expect strong winds in the steppe areas, on the Chile side: the closer you are to Pacific Ocean, the greater the chance of rain. Please note that January and February are busy holidays in South America, making November, December and March ideal for travel.

How to book?

Most people go on tours in Patagonia - in small groups or with personal guide– with tour operators doing all the boring work, like booking an overnight stay in Santiago or Buenos Aires after a long flight. They also handle domestic flights, ground transfers and itinerary development. A list of more than 40 specialized firms, from mid-budget operators to elite companies with the best reputation, can be found on the website of the Latin American Tourism Association. For those who want to travel on their own, we advise you to start with the wonderful website http://www.turismo.gov.ar/ and http://chile.travel/, and explore accommodation options and local service providers. Many can be booked by phone or email using credit cards. Always leave more time between flights and points on your route than you think you will need.

Which part of Patagonia should you choose?

Argentine Patagonia is a vast, open and fairly empty area. Most They occupy fields of dry scrub and steppes, and along the coast and at the foot of the Andes there are small towns (many of which have airports for small aircraft). Tourism has been developing here since the 70s, when Patagonia attracted the attention of hippies and climbers. Over the past 20 years, many farms have opened their doors to travelers, and hotel chains have built new farm-like estates. Some regions - especially the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén in northern Patagonia - are particularly popular with tourists from Argentina.

Some of the more remote towns look more like existential movie sets than tourist destinations, but southern city, Ushuaia, and the official capital of Argentine mountain tourism, El Chaltén, you can find cute bars, restaurants, and fashionable hotels. Puerto Madryn, Bariloche, San Martín de los Andes and El Calafate are well-developed and, in season, busy centres. The best way to visit Argentina is to choose an airport, region and/or national park and stick to those goals. Truly adventurous travelers might want to rent a car and explore off-the-beaten-path areas. For example, Perito Moreno National Park (not to be confused with the glacier of the same name) or the atmospheric coastal towns of San Julián and Puerto Deseado.

Chilean Patagonia, like Chile, doesn't have much variety: wherever you go, you're equally close to the ocean and the Andes. In three weeks it is quite possible to explore the entire country.

The Lake District and Chiloé Island are tourism-rich regions with excellent campsites, paved roads, national parks and hot spring resorts. Puerto Montt is the starting point for a wide variety of Chilean fjord cruises and local ferries to Chaitén and the beautiful Pumalín Nature Reserve.

The long-neglected province of Aisén in central Patagonia is now open to group tours and independent travelers and is home to South America's second largest lake, Lago General Carrera. . Punta Arenas is a city in Patagonia with rich history, it was colonized when the entire region was a desert area and remained a major port until the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The city's airport also opens up the opportunity to visit the Torres del Paine National Park and take cruises around Tierra del Fuego with the help of the excellent Chilean company Cruceros Australis.

Before you go

There is no mandatory vaccination for this region, but check your insurance. Books worth reading in advance, on the road or stopping at a nice farm: Antoine de Saint-Exupery “Stars, Sand and Wind” about a pilot in Patagonia who carries out mail delivery at the risk of his life, and William Henry Hudson “Holidays in Patagonia” . It’s also worth visiting a well-designed website before your trip. http://www.interpatagonia.com/ .

What to take with you?

Take good binoculars - everything is very far away, and there are also a lot of birds there. Comfortable hiking boots and sunscreen are essential, and sunglasses will provide protection not only from the rays, but also from the wind. A panoramic camera or a camera with a panorama option will help you take better landscape photos.

Translation by Victoria Shipunova