We are going to Belukha. Equipment list. Tips for girls and inexperienced tourists Shelter in the snow and a gas burner

Located in Altai, on the border with Kazakhstan, Mount Belukha (4509 m) is one of the most famous peaks in Russia. The Akkem Gorge, from which most mountaineering routes begin, is popular among tourists because unique nature, wonderful views, and legends associated with this place.

The classic route to the summit is classified as 3A. Routes in this category require some technical skills, which, if desired, can actually be mastered in 1-2 days of lessons. On the Russian side, the slopes of Belukha have a northern exposure - therefore, here you need to have good physical fitness and be prepared for the fact that even in summer you will have to work at temperatures down to -15. This makes Belukha very different from the four-thousanders in the Caucasus and Asia - the climate here is much more severe.

When choosing equipment for climbing Belukha, you need to remember that the roads to it end 50 kilometers before the base camp. It turns out that the equipment should be suitable for both long marches in the rain (in Altai, heavy rains for several days are not uncommon), as well as for hurricane winds and severe winter frosts. You will also have to fit food, special and bivouac equipment into your backpack. To be honest, the task is not easy.

The peculiarity of climbing Belukha is that this whole event is more like hiking trip, than for regular mountaineering fees. Here you will not return from short trips to a permanent camp. Almost every day begins with getting ready, putting all the equipment in a backpack. This point must also be taken into account when choosing equipment.

People go to Belukha in winter and summer. And it's perfect different mountain. The equipment doesn't differ much. The list below is for summer climbing. In winter, you need a warmer sleeping bag, a winter down jacket, double mountaineering boots, and, of course, you won’t get there in sneakers. If you are going to Belukha in winter, it is worth making some adjustments to the list of special equipment below. We specifically noted those items of equipment that differ from the summer set.

Clothing, shoes, protective equipment

Personal special equipment

Personal equipment for bivouac and trekking

I have been to Belukha, on the slopes and the summit several times. Winter, spring and summer. I saw different Beluga whales.

In the spring I ran from avalanches and fell into cracks in the winter. Lived in snow caves and saved a tent from summer storms with hurricane winds. It froze and melted. Lived for weeks on the slopes, trying to understand the voice of the Mountain.

I succeeded in many things. Or rather, I succeeded in everything I set my mind to. Not always the first time, but it is what it is.
I want to tell you a few interesting points, maybe they will help you look at the mountains from a different perspective.

Winter. January. We are on Lake Akkem, we have come and are relaxing. The weather is wonderful, clear blue sky, frost around 20, at night - 35. Windless and quiet. The beluga whale is visible in the rays of the sun, simply beckoning: “guys... the weather is just what we need, go ahead!”
But I don't want to go. Everyone is ready to go to the Tomsk camp at night (the house of the Glessiologists at the foot of Belukha, from there the journey begins in crampons and harnesses).

I'm against. Why? Everything inside me is against it. You have to leave at night, at three. To walk through all the rivers and lakes on ice in the cold without falling through. We decided not to go out that night and wait out the day. And as soon as 12 midnight struck, the fairy tale ended and hell began. It howled and spun. The wind rose such that we thought it would blow away our barrels in which we were staying. The barrels were bouncing. The cables that secured them groaned. Going to the toilet was a big problem. In addition, the wind caught all the sand from the mountains attacking. Everyone began to look at me in amazement. Nothing predicted such weather.

Except my intuition.

Since we are left, we need firewood. Follow them to the other end of the lake, into the cedar forest with a saw and an ax. Both men and women went. All. You have to heat it, it’s cold. There are brick stoves in barrels and they eat a lot of wood. The wind still did not subside, but it became a little quieter and the snow was no longer the same.

Went into the forest. Everyone found a lying log that needed to be sawed and dragged away, and then split. Everything is on a slope, and the slope in some places is 35 degrees. And so we sawed off a lying log from a tree trunk, I say:
Now let's step aside, knock on it and it will roll.

The guy probably didn’t hear the first part of the phrase, but he understood the second very well. And with all its heroic strength, as soon as it hit the tree... it rolled... right at me.

The tree has a girth of two, the branches stick out in different directions like a hellish machine. What I managed to do was slide down like a cockroach on all fours and hide between the trees. My log hit those trees. And yet, several times I got hit on the head with branches. So my labor feat was completed, and the harsh medical routine began. Walking down after the stress I had experienced, I clearly realized that I had enough of fooling around here, I had to go out at night. And returning to the barrels, he loudly declared that today was the last weather day, we were leaving at night. They reasonably told me in response that the wind would blow away, to which I so calmly replied: “there will be no wind.”

Remembering how I predicted the wind, the people smeared my head wounds with brilliant green and began to prepare for the night exit.

Midnight came and the wind died down, as if someone had turned it off. Everyone was shocked. From then on I was looked upon as a local mountain deity.

In the summer, there is the same exit on the same route, everything is planned out by day. Since the evening I have been against going out. But the people insist, they all have trains and planes and have bought return tickets. We go out in the morning and find ourselves in the rain. Raincoats quickly get our backpacks wet, and so do we. The whole road to Tomsk is just gray rain and wind.
We arrive and nothing is dry. So we sit like fools, wet and frozen.

Climbers descend from above without ever ascending to the top. On Berelsky there was such snowfall that the tents were broken and it looked like it would last for a long time. All you can hear is the roar of the avalanches.

I look at the vacationers, I feel sorry for them.
The next day the sky is clear, clear, no wind or rain. And here’s the question: at least once in my life will I go against my intuition? The answer is clear: no!

In the mountains, only instinct rules. The mind always makes mistakes.

1. The badge “For climbing Belukha” is awarded to citizens Russian Federation, foreign states and stateless persons who have ascended to the highest mountain peak Siberia (Altai) - Eastern Belukha (4506 meters) and having confirmation of the ascent from: LenAlpTours CJSC guides, mountaineering instructors with a mountaineering instructor certificate, employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Ak-Kem PSS.
2. The badge “For climbing Belukha” was established by LenAlpTours CJSC, the Mountaineering Federation of St. Petersburg, and the Mountaineering Federation of the Altai Republic in 2006. Rewarding of persons who have completed the ascent is made at the request of the climber in accordance with these Regulations, starting from 2006.
3. Description of the badge “For climbing Belukha.”

   The badge “For climbing Belukha” has a certificate and a number. The climber is awarded a badge and an attached certificate indicating the number and name of the climber. The icon has an oval shape. On the front side of the badge, in the center, there is an image in white of the snowy contours of the Northern wall of the Belukha massif against the background of the blue sky in the upper part and against the background of the blue image of Lake Ak-Kem in the lower part. The badge is bordered by an image of a climbing rope with an ice ball and a carabiner attached to the guy.

   Inscriptions on the badge:

• against a blue sky background - " TO THE CLIMBER", just below - the flag of the Russian Federation and in numbers - height Eastern peak Belukha - " 4506 »
• on a white background of the contours of the Belukha massif - “ BELUHA»;
• against the blue background of Lake AK-Kem - “ UC - SUMMER"(translated from the Altai language - “three springs”).

On the reverse side of the badge is the serial number.

The waters of the port of Sochi are guarded by trained beluga whales.

For the Games, this port, built back in the 1950s, was significantly reconstructed - a second deep-water area appeared, which was formed by new, powerful concrete breakwaters, far out into the open sea. There, on the berths of the deep-water area, a new marine terminal, customs buildings and various services were erected. The main goal of the reconstruction of the Sochi harbor is to make it possible for large passenger ships to dock in the port. In the old water area, the depth of which did not exceed 8 meters, modern cruise ships couldn't come in. The renovated port of Sochi was opened a month before the Games, and now there are four ships at the berths of its deep waters, each accommodating up to 3 thousand passengers. Fans, volunteers, and technical support workers live in these floating hotels. Like all Olympic venues in Sochi, the port is heavily guarded these days. This is noticeable: at the piers and at sea there are ships and boats of the Russian Navy. Foreign guests of the Games are happy to take pictures against their background.

And a month before the Olympics, in the old water area of ​​the port of Sochi, an inconspicuous object appeared at one pier - a small pen, in which, if you look closely, you could see three beluga whales or, as they are also called, polar dolphins. Dolphins - neither polar nor local Black Sea bottlenose dolphins - have ever lived in the port of Sochi. What are they here for? The first assumption is that they will participate in the opening ceremony of the Games. But the port workers told the Trud correspondent that people in naval uniforms take care of the beluga whales and feed them fish, so in the port even then, a month before the Olympics, it was no secret that both water areas, old and new, were to be protected from possible penetration of scuba divers who have, let's say, bad intentions, there will be fighting polar whales who have undergone a course of special training.

The Trud correspondent was unable to obtain any comments or details from representatives of the Navy. Moreover, the whales soon disappeared from the pen. “What beluga whales? - people in uniform joked. - It seemed to you...”

But the version that these three dolphins are now guarding the port has been confirmed: in the sea, at the entrance to the Sochi harbor, an unusual floating structure was installed, attracting attention with its bright orange color. And inside this structure, divided into three sections, through binoculars you can periodically see snow-white dolphins surfacing.

There is information publicly available on the Internet that special units of the Navy began training beluga whales for military purposes back in Soviet times. One of the first research centers for the combat use of whales was created in the Far East, in Srednyaya Bay near Nakhodka. Then the same center appeared in Vityaz Bay, Khasansky district. It is reported that “...scientists and military anti-sabotage specialists obtained the required skills from the animals - in a combat situation, a special cutting device was put on the beluga whale’s nose, with which the animal could kill a scuba diver by pushing him to the surface.” In 1998, during the collapse of the Soviet army and Navy, when funding was stopped on all counts, the Navy research center in the Far East was disbanded, and some beluga whales were then transported to the Black Sea, to Gelendzhik.

Apparently, experiments in the combat use of dolphins are currently ongoing in the Russian Navy. And, as one might assume, beluga whales are now trained not to kill enemy scuba divers, but to alert them when divers or other large underwater objects approach a protected vessel or structure. Dolphins, as you know, are endowed with a unique ability of echolocation, and under water they navigate not with the help of vision, but due to the fact that they emit high-frequency sound waves and catch their reflection from various objects and obstacles. This natural mechanism, in particular in beluga whales, is so perfect that the whale can recognize and identify even small objects found at the bottom, for example, coins, with its locator. And finding a scuba diver approaching the port, and at a considerable distance, is not a problem for them at all.

It was not possible to find out how beluga whales warn people about the approach of divers. Such developments are strictly classified. One can only assume that the signal is transmitted by special electronic devices: This is indicated by the antennas located on floating structure, where whales live and work, and on the port pier.

However, for guests of the Olympics, technical details are not so important. The main thing is that the port of the city, in which 12 thousand people now live on ships, as in hotels, is reliably guarded, including by very cute snow-white polar whales.

The use of war animals in the US Navy's naval special forces.

One day in the first half of the 1960s in sunny Florida, yachtsmen and shipowners unexpectedly discovered strange objects on their yachts and boats, which turned out to be sabotage mines. This was the result of the first exercise conducted by a special CIA group near the island of Key West using specially trained demolition dolphins. It’s good that the mines were training mines.

The leadership of the CIA special unit believed that the task assigned to the dolphins “recruited” for military service was quite simple and easily accomplished for animals with such high level brain activity. Take a special sabotage mine from the base, go to the designated area of ​​the operation and attach the mines to the bottoms of warships. After this, the dolphins had to return to base.

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An exclusive interview with the former head of an object with a completely peaceful name "Oceanarium"... Although the name of the SUPREME organization - "Aquarium" also sounds very peaceful :)
There is a lot of myth and fiction surrounding this topic. There are many reasons for this, first of all, the special secrecy of the programs of the GRU General Staff of the USSR, Navy special forces and other circumstances.
Original taken from moryakurainy to the Oceanarium and dolphin special forces. Without myths and legends... Sevastopol 1990. Removal of fighting dolphins.

“Military Book” is a small and cozy store, some 25 years ago it was located on the main street of Odessa, Deribasovskaya. There you could leisurely look through all the new items - memories of participants in the last war, military-political and military-technical literature: domestic and translated. Some of the publications purchased here ended up on the shelves of my personal library. Even now I resort to them as reference books. I’ll name what they say offhand: Fuller J. F. S. “The Second World War"1939-1945, "Strategic and tactical review" - M. Foreign Literature (IL), 1956 or Hilsman R. "Strategic intelligence and political decisions" - M. IL, 1957. It was not by chance that he named these two books. It was thanks to the translations carried out by IL that he became acquainted with collections of military-technical articles, including about the biotechnical system (BTS) with the participation of dolphins, as well as dolphinologists John Lilly and Forrest Glen Wood, working in those years for the US Navy.

World legends mention mythical countries where sorcerers and gods live, where there is a source of eternal youth and untold riches. Humanity has lost its feet in search of their traces. Scientists believe that some are worth looking for in Russia.

Sveta-dvipa

"In the Sea of ​​Milk, north of Meru, lies big Island Shvepa-dvipa, White Island, or Island of Light. There is a country where bliss is tasted. Its inhabitants are brave men, removed from all evil, indifferent to honor and dishonor, marvelous in appearance, filled with vitality. A cruel, insensitive, lawless person does not live here...”

Where have you looked for this paradise from the ancient Indian epic Mahabharata? Some Indianists, such as Colonel Wilford, identified Shveta-dvipa with Great Britain. Why not? An island beyond the sea, in the north (for the authors of the Mahabharata). Blavatsky Elena Petrovna, who was a famous representative of the mystical order of Theosophists, in her “Secret Doctrine” placed Shveta Dvipa in the region of the modern Gobi Desert. Some researchers, on the contrary, see Arctida under the White Island - a hypothetical northern polar continent that once existed in the Arctic, but as a result of cataclysms that allegedly occurred from 18 to 100 thousand years ago, went under water (hypothesis of the German zoographer Eger).

Supporters of Arctida often associate the legend of Shveta-dvipa with Hyperborea, which, according to ancient authors, was also located somewhere far to the north. But north is a flexible concept. Some linguists have discovered similarities between Ural place names and Indian names. So, based on the research of A.G. Vinogradov and S.V. Zharnikova, the legendary Shveta-dvipa ended up on the territory of the Urals, White Sea, basins of the Northern Dvina and Pechora rivers, Volga-Oka interfluve.

Khara Berezaita

In history there are so-called nomadic toponyms, which various sources associated with in different places. These include the Haru Berezaiti mountain range from the Zoroastrian texts of the Avesta, with Mount Hukairya. This is the archetypal World Mountain, from behind which the sun chariot of the deity Mithras rises in the morning. Seven stars sparkle above her Ursa Major and the North Star, placed at the center of the universe. From here, from the golden peaks, all the earth's rivers originate, and the greatest of them - clean river Ardvi, falling with noise into the white foamy sea of ​​Vourukasha. The Swift Sun always circles over the mountains of High Khara, and day lasts six months here, and night lasts six months. Only the brave and strong-willed can cross these mountains and get to the happy land of the blessed, washed by the waters of the white-foamed ocean. Some researchers compare it with the already mentioned legendary mountain Meru, which is located next to Shveto-dvipa in the Urals. But, according to the Italian researcher Giraldo Gnoli, the Pamir and Hindu Kush were initially perceived as Khara Berezaiti, and then these beliefs were transferred to “more serious mountains,” or rather to Elbrus. The ocean in this analogy is obviously the Black Sea. By the way, this does not contradict the ideas about the mythological country in the north among ancient authors. Many Roman authors gave the same description of the Black Sea region that we can give today of the North Sea - extreme cold, everything is covered with ice, people are dressed in thick skins.

Altai Shambhala

Shambhala is a mythical land of Hinduism and Buddhism. The fabulous land promises fabulous conditions - to give eternal youth, to open all the knowledge of the world. “If you know the teachings of Shambhala, you know the future,” said about magical land Nicholas Roerich. Traditionally, the entrance to Shambhala is placed in the mountainous region of Tibet, somewhere near the sacred Mount Kailash. But, according to Roerich’s teachings, there should be three gates of Shambhala. One of them is located in Altai, in the area of ​​Mount Belukha - a sacred peak among the local Altai peoples. According to their beliefs, there is a land of spirits there. One of the Altai shamans, Anton Yudanov, said in an interview that even clergy do not dare to approach the mountain closer than 10 km, and the attempt to conquer Belukha, which many people undertake every year, is a real sacrilege, followed by punishment. It’s not for nothing, he said, that Belukha is called “the killer mountain,” where most tourists have died recently: “ sacred mountain will throw off everyone who seeks to approach its secret.”