Kush kaya translation. Mount Sokol (Kush-Kaya): features, climbing, interesting facts. Excursions and routes to Mount Kush-Kaya

This mountain looks like Chomolungma from Alushta. Its gray pointed peak (1339 m)* stands out well against the backdrop of the wooded Uraga and Chamnysh; it teases the dismounted motorist lying on the beach: “Is it hard for you to conquer me? And not from the Yalta highway, but straight from Alushta - practically from the zero level? ". And the day before yesterday, this challenge was accepted - I decided to stretch my legs, almost completely atrophied from city life, and encouraged my childhood friend Alexei to take on this adventure. Once upon a time, we almost ran up this mountain, albeit from the direction of Maly Mayak. What about now? Is there still gunpowder left in the flasks?
Among the aggravating circumstances were age, heat, an easel backpack that was stupidly overloaded (for me), a severe bruise on my toe from a battery standing on a charger the night before (again for me) and a fairly strong climb in the second half of the route, but the most terrible thing were the vile creatures, which will be discussed further.

Route plan for Kush-Kaya. The dotted line indicates the return route to the Yalta highway in the area of ​​the gas station near the village of Vinogradny.
Kush-Kaya looks distant and inaccessible from the beach.

But as soon as we climbed up the hill from the Alushta bus station, the Kush-Kai peak moved to the side and became lower. On the left is the wooded Uraga, on the right is Chamnysh, below it is the gray rock from which we looked at Alushta last September.

This time we will go to the right along the forest road, as we did in previous years. In order not to miss, you should not enter the motodrome, you must stay to the right of it and enter the forest. A well-fed hare darting past confirmed to us that we had chosen the right path.

It is better to walk along this road than on a motorcycle track. At first it is quite flat, but after crossing the river it turns into a wide path and begins to climb up the mountain. Moreover, when approaching the river, every time you get the feeling that you have reached a dead end, because... the path is no longer visible.

It is quite comfortable to walk along the path with compacted pebbles. This is still an unremarkable oak forest; above us a beech forest awaits.

Seraus is already flashing through the trees. Now there will be a clearly visible tree with a hollow in which we hid the treasure last September. I wonder if anyone found it or not?

We hid the treasure not in the hollow, but on the opposite side. We need to compare it with last year’s photo (it’s below).

No treasure! So someone found our bracelet. Sorry I didn't tell you.

Altitude 530 m, no fatigue. Now let's rest on a furnished bivouac next to a tree with a hollow and go ahead to storm Kush-Kai!

If we had gone to very close Seraus (photo from, in the previous photo he is behind Alexey), we would have seen the Kush-Kai peak. But its proximity is deceptive. To get to it, you need to climb to the saddle between Uraga and Chamnysh, and then to the height of Chamnysh, i.e. practically climb onto its wooded head (right mountain).

Oh, did you get Seraus easily? Well, then you get an obstacle course. And these are still flowers, berries will be ahead...

But we bravely overcame it. Skill (in this case, military skill) cannot be wasted, or, as they say, an old horse can’t ruin a tree felling, or something like that...

We go out onto a wide forest road coming from Vinogradny and follow it to the right. It's not far to go, soon there will be a fork - to Seraus and Chamnysh. And here is a stone familiar from last year with a crack.

The trail to Kush-Kaya, or rather, to the saddle between Uraga and Chamnysh-burun, after a fork, sharply starts upward.

Let's look back. However, the photo does not convey this quite decent rise.

Suddenly, from the abyss of beeches (which means we are at an altitude of 600 m), a forest whale swung its powerful tail.

There are quite a few fallen beech trees along the trail.

Placers of stones.

The stones are larger and then there is a “cartload of brushwood”.

And these scatterings of stones look like frozen streams descending from the slopes.

A short smoke break on the path going up. We didn’t know then that this was the last peaceful stop. This is about to start!

Suddenly we were attacked by deer (elk) flies. Compared to their single representatives last year on Seraus, there was something unimaginable here.

Apparently, these vile creatures* received information via their phone that two deer were walking along the trail, and there was no other meat in sight for the next few kilometers...

*deer bloodsucker, moose fly, moose louse, moose tick- the creature is still the same. It looks like a fly (in the photo it is greatly enlarged and without wings), but when it lands on you or an elk, it casts off its wings and turns into a “spider mouse” with tenacious legs. - If you tear it off a T-shirt or body, you won’t crush it. She tries to get into her hair or under her clothes and starts drinking blood. Not afraid of hand waves. Likes to attack walking people and for some reason mostly only adults. It’s good that it’s not a louse or a tick, and it only flies during the day. But it’s not pleasant enough. Because this infection (however, one of the most intelligent acquaintances, who was subjected to their attack, gave them a more capacious definition in her hearts - it’s a pity I can’t give it here), can be the causative agent of Lyme disease.

We had no time for landscapes anymore, however, it would be more correct to call these places a windfall.

In the lowlands the attacks were most terrible. We ran like a bullet to the heights.

But even there these creatures did not give rest. Alexei fanned himself away from them with a towel, and the speed of his hand would be the envy of a fan. And I had to take something with long sleeves stored for such an occasion out of my backpack and put on this armor in the heat, which was completed with thick jeans tucked into socks (after last September, no shorts when going into the forest!) and a T-shirt wrapped around my neck a la cowboy scarf. What kind of fitness can compare with such masochism? Even the sauna is relaxing! Indeed, on these very days, weather forecasters promised forty-degree heat on the southern coast of Crimea.

Yes, in this case, like grumbling old men, we can state that life was better before. Well, these creatures weren’t in the mountains. And not only in our childhood and youth, even in the relatively recent year of 2008, we don’t remember anything like this in these places.

And again military everyday life. Apparently, the enemy's reconnaissance was well established. Even on the hill, a massive attack awaited us.

Alexey rotated the towel like the blades of a helicopter, but it didn’t help much.

But even in such a military situation, we tried to notice interesting objects. For example, someone put two small ones on a large stone, and it turned out to be a forest frog. The angle for the photo was not very good, but the flies did not allow me to choose a better position. These creatures even tried to cover the camera lens; I had to hold the “soap box” with one hand and drive away the crazed insects with the other. I didn’t even think about getting a DSLR out of my backpack. For this reason, it was not possible to leave new treasures. Sorry.

This is not a sign that we are giving up. It is Alexey who is using his last strength to fight off enemy aircraft.

This is not our job. We behaved well in the forest. Here we had to take off our T-shirts, turn them inside out and crush these bastards. And it wasn't easy. There were many of them, they held on tenaciously with their paws, moved quickly... Sorry for the details. But it’s better to know about them in order to be properly equipped. Maybe take some sprays with you, or maybe a mosquito net.

The path turned into a forest road and gradually began to straighten.

This means that we will soon find ourselves in the saddle between Uraga and Chamnysh. From here the trail goes up to Kush-Kaya.

As soon as the trail turned into something like a forest road, felled trees immediately appeared. The forest's price for being close to civilization.

And here is a familiar tree at the fork. To the left of it the path to Kush-Kaya rises, to the right the path goes to Seraus, Alushta (where we came from).

A little higher is a spring. Despite the unassuming appearance of the pipe, the water is tasty and cold. Here we replenished her supplies. By the way, this was the first source of water on our way - everything or almost everything had dried up. For statistics, during this hike we drank 2 liters of water per brother. Now we know how much to take with us and that in this place you can always replenish your reserves, even in the heat.

Well then. We rested a little. It's time to climb Kush-Kaya. We are at its foot. Soon it will be visible through the crowns of tall beeches.
P.S.
*There is more than one Kush-Kaya in Crimea. For example, above the Batiliman tract in the Laspi-Sevastopol region there is its own Kush-Kaya. And although its height is only 664 m, the view of this almost vertical cliff is impressive.

the Batiliman nature reserve (Laspi Bay, Sevastopol), perhaps one of the most picturesque, clean and cozy places on the southern coast of Crimea. Fenced off from the cold winds by the steep wall of the town of Kush-kaya, close to the sea, Batiliman is rightfully considered a place with a mild, comfortable Mediterranean climate for relaxation. Between the sea and the rock wall grows a unique relict forest from centuries-old junipers, wild pistachios and evergreen small-fruited strawberries (the fruits of which are very tasty and nutritious from December to March)). In this forest, among a pile of stone blocks, the Kush-kaya camping park, founded by the Crimean Mountain Club in 2011, is located in cozy shady glades. The main contingent of the camping: rock climbers, mountaineers, practitioners of yoga, martial arts, children's camps for active and educational recreation, eco-residents and simply connoisseurs of a healthy lifestyle:) May holidays The Crimean Mountain Club invites everyone to the CLIMBING SCHOOL who wants to master this type of activity or take the next step on the path of knowledge and skills in rock climbing. The next "SCHOOL" at the campsite will be held June 1-6, 2014!

The campsite also has a climbing machine to keep you fit in any weather.

Actually, in the article I also wanted to present a guide to Batiliman sports routes, bouldering and climbing on Kush-Kaya (the most popular), which is what I do.

Kush-Kaya is one of the most popular rock climbing and mountaineering areas in Crimea. And on this moment, perhaps best area for beginners in climbing. Active first ascent of mountaineering routes and the appearance of climbing paths began approximately in the 70-80s of the last century and continues to this day. At the moment, there are about 20 climbing routes of 1B-5B difficulty categories, about 70 new and old climbing paths and trad lines, about 200 marked and classified bouldering problems, many tracks and walking trails. The great popularity of the area is due to the fact that the Batiliman tract is separated from external influences by a mountain range. The special microclimate allows you to climb rocks and climb almost all year round.

How to get there:
Coordinates of the Kush-Kaya camping park: 44° 25" 16.6584" N, 33° 40" 52.2948" E 44.421705, 33.682359 By public transport can be reached from Sevastopol. You need to purchase a bus ticket to Yalta and get off at the Laspi stop. Then follow the signs of the Mountain Club 3.5 km to the foot of the town of Kush-kaya. In the village you can often find a taxi that will take you to the campsite for little money. The nearest grocery store is located in Laspi Bay, Foros village and Orlinoe village. Banks and ATMs can be found in Sevastopol. The nearest car service station (service station) is located in the village of Orlinoe and in the city of Sevastopol.

Features of the area:
The area is characterized by warm winters and hot summers. The average winter temperature is 10 degrees Celsius. Summer heat begins in June and lasts until September. When planning ascents, it is necessary to take into account the large length of the routes on Mt. Kush-Kaya and take a supply of water or warm clothes. It is recommended to use only marked trails to ascend and descend from the top of Kush-Kaya! The territory where Cape Aya, Kokia-Kaya and the entire coastal zone are located are the subject of a reserve fund and are protected by forestry. It is prohibited to violate the boundaries of the reserve, burn fires, or leave garbage!

Features of the routes: all climbing routes are quite long. The upper sections are mostly more monolithic. This guide does not indicate some passages and route options due to their objective illogicality or danger. Full information can be found in the Classifier of mountaineering routes of the Crimea and the Carpathians.
The climbing sectors “Africa”, “Skinner”, “Pink Belt”, “Burevestnik” are protected from above by wide shelves from direct falls of stones, however, it is not recommended to be in the sports sectors without a helmet!

1. Climbing sectors.
A large number of competitions and alpine games were held on the warm rocks of Batiliman, such as the “Friendship Cup”, “Kustovsky Memorial”, Alpine Games…….. Sitnik M.A., Babich M., Vorobiev M., Nefedov S. made a great contribution to the development. , Kovalev S., Deev A., as well as many others. The team of the Crimean Mountain Club continues the reconstruction and creation of new climbing paths. At the moment, there are four climbing sectors located almost on the campsite. Approaches are made along marked paths and wooden signs. The large number of easy routes regularly attracts many novice climbers. In the summer, the sun sets in the sectors around 10-11 am, and the evening climbing set can begin at 18.00.

Balalaika F6b (Levin A. (Sevastopol), reconstruction by Lavrinenko A., Savelyev I., Kovalev S.)
It is one of the most popular and visited multipitches. The beginning of the route is marked with the appropriate name in the “Pink Belt” sector. All stations are equipped with trigger rings and chains. The distance between stations does not exceed 30 m. It is almost impossible to get lost on the route, because The direction of movement is constantly determined by the bolts.

6a+, 6a, 6a, 5a, 6a (the fireplace is walked inside), then walk through the bowl along the bolts, 5a, 6a, 6a, 5b, 6b, 6a, 5b

Equipment: rope 50-60 m, set of guy ropes

Blue wave, F6c+ (Vorobyev M. 1991, reconstruction by Lavrinenko A., Savelyev I.)
The route was originally completed in 1991 by M. Vorobyov’s team and was called “The Seventh Bastion”

Start from the metal sign with the name of the route, to the right of the “Pink Belt” sector. All stations are equipped with chains and trigger rings.

6a, 6b, 5c, 6c+, 6c (Alternate move: 6b, 6a), 5a, 5c, 5c+, 6a, 6c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5b, 5b

There is a lot of friction climbing. You can descend the route from any of its sections.
Equipment: 60 m rope, set of quickdraws

* In the area of ​​the 5th guy line it intersects with the “Jesus” route and then follows to the right of it.
** Routes "Left" and "Right" have general beginning. In the area of ​​the cornice, the routes are divided in a Y-shape.
***Intersects with route "Seven".

2. Bouldering
Batiliman is a popular winter bouldering area in Crimea. The climate allows climbers of any level to climb comfortably almost all year round. There are approximately 200 marked rocks throughout the campsite, which are marked on a map along with major landmarks.

3. Mountaineering
Active first ascent of climbing routes in Batiliman on Mount Kush-Kaya began approximately in the 70-80s of the last century and continues to this day. Odessa and Sevastopol climbers made a great contribution to the development of the region. Equipped parking lots in the Burevestnik Grotto, as well as many Soviet-era coins found in the park area, indicate the enormous attendance and popularity of the area in the old days. It will be interesting historical fact, that previously, on one of the hard-to-reach rock shelves above the Burevestnik climbing sector, there even existed a climbing house, in the image and example of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars, which served as a refuge for many famous climbers and rock climbers. At the moment, there are about 20 climbing routes of 1B-5B difficulty categories.

Classic 2B

The beginning of the route is a vertical fireplace, with a large juniper tree at the base. Approach along the couloir to the left or right of the “Skuroder” climbing sector

R0-R1: 55m III - IV Vertical fireplace. There are bolts from time to time, and natural belay is also well organized. Station on a shelf in a relief or higher on a tree.

R1-R2: 50 m II+ Up the couloir with easy climbing. There are bolts from time to time. Station on bolts.

R2-R3: 50m II+ Up through the small fireplace. Exit to the ridge. Station on bolts.

R3-R4: 40 m I-II Up along simple rocks, belaying for trees. Station on bolts.
R4-R5: 60 m, III To the left through the bend on the friction. There are several bolts. Then go up the entire length of the rope along the ridge. Station on bolts near a tree.

R5-R6: 45m, II Up the ridge. There are bolts from time to time. Station on a shelf on bolts.

R6-R7: 45m, II Up the ridge. There are bolts from time to time. Station on a shelf on bolts.

R7-R8: 40m, II Up the ridge. Station on a shelf on bolts.

R8-R9: 40m, II-III To the left along the cracks to a convenient shelf. Insurance is easy to arrange. Station on bolts.

R9-R10: 40m, III up the slabs with large holds, then traverse to the left along the bolts. Station on bolts after the traverse.

R10-R11: 50m, III Along the rich terrain up 15 m, then on foot. Station on bolts on the Yaila.

One of the most visited routes on the mountain. It is a classic species line running along the ridge with easy climbing in all areas. It is worth noting the duration of the route, which, however, is compensated by the ease of navigation. During the peak May holidays, there are often traffic jams and crowds on the first ropes. The minimum climbing time is from 3 hours for trained climbers, up to 6-8 hours for intermediate climbers. One can note the similarity with the “Crest deuce” on the town of Sokol in Sudak in terms of the nature of the relief and duration.

Equipment: 60 m rope. Medium and large stoppers and friends work equally well. You can go without hammers.

Center of the bowl 5A (Levin A.-Babich M., Sevastopol, 1978)

Exit on positive relief from football field to the cornices, then traverse to the right to the beginning of the route. The first station on the bolts of the pioneers near the dried pine tree.

R0-R1: 35 m VI A2 (F6b) Climbing along an overhanging crack or using aid. The station is in a small niche on the bolt and its points.

R1-R2: 35 m VI A2 (F6c) Up and to the left under a small cornice to a convenient shelf. Station on a bolt and its own points.

R2-R3: 50 m VI A2 (F6b) Along a system of cracks leading diagonally to the left upward. The station is at its points.

R3-R4: 40 m V+ (F6a) Difficult section after the station and exit under the cornice to the left to the station with classic two bolts.

Exit to the plateau along the Classics route (4 pitches). The length of the ropes may be disputed by other climbers. There are almost no bolts or pitons on the route, so the length of the sections can vary among different climbers as they lay out their reserve of points.

Equipment: rope 50-60 m, hammers and hooks, small and medium-sized bookmarks, small and medium-sized friends.

Rybka 5A (Stavnitser A., ​​Khovrachev, Korolev A., Staritsky P., Odessa, 1972)

It passes through the cracks of the central part of the bowl, formed by the ridge of the 2 on the left, and the buttress of the “Egg” route on the right. First, along the flat slabs of the bowl, choosing the optimal path (as in the photo) to reach the tree. The route itself begins from here.

R0-R1: 60 m, V+ A1 From the tree, go right up and up the gap. After about 10m, the gap bifurcates, it is easier to move along the left, you will encounter pitons. Tree station + bookmarks.

R1-R2: 50 m V+ Go to the right, onto the gap, up along the gap. The gap goes into the inner corner. Before the slight overhang, go into the right gap and follow it onto the shelf. Station on bookmarks and hooks. You can climb the corner without going to the right, but it’s more difficult.

R2-R3: 50 m, V+ Up, along the crack, the crack is difficult in the lower part, further along the corner, climbing is easier. Tree station.

R3-R4: 60m, V A1 Up, easy climbing, get to the shelf. On the left side of the inner corner, up, go to the bolt station at the base of the fireplace. Up 3m along the fireplace, then along the right side of the inner corner. Exit from the corner through a slight overhang to leveling. Go boldly along the entire length of the rope to the tree. Tree station.

R4-R5: 25 m, IV From the tree up, through the inner corner, exit to the yayla.

Equipment: 60 m rope. At the bottom there are small and medium-sized bookmarks and friends. At the top, the gaps are larger and large and hexes will go. You can do without hammers.

Egg 4B (Stavnitser A.-Kholoptsev A., Odessa, 1972)

It runs along a characteristic buttress, bordering the bowl on the right. (the bowl is limited on the left by the ridge of 2).

R0-R1: 55 m, IV+ From the big tree right up, enter the inner corner. Further along the corner to a small shelf under an overhang. Traverse to the right, around the corner, to a large tree. There is a station on it. 55 m

R1-R2: 35 m, IV From the tree, along the inner corners, up onto the large shelf. Tree station.

R2-R3: 50 m, IV+ Up, along the inner corner, to the shelf at the top of the “egg”. Station on bolts.

R3-R4: 58 m, V+ From the station, descend 3 m to the left, and up the crescent-shaped crack/– the key rope. Tree station.

R4-R5: 60 m, IV+ Along the inner corner up, go to a large pine tree. From the pine tree go up to the right, go out to the inner corner, and along the corner, up onto simple rocks. Follow them to the right up to the yayla.

A logical and appropriate route with monolithic and clean terrain. Key areas are not pierced with bolts. It is possible to complicate the task and climb the second rope on the left. In this case, the station is placed on an overhanging shelf in the middle of the first rope. Difficulty of the left bypass: V+, A1. A vertical slot with sloping walls is supported by spacers. If you're climbing, you need good shoes.

Equipment: medium and large bookmarks, large hexes, medium and large friends work well. You can go without hammers. Rope 60 m.

Travel time: 5-6 hours

“Pants” left route 5B (First ascent: Stavnitser A., ​​Demyanenko R., Sipkin S., Leontyev V., Odessa, 1974)

R0-R1: 43 m, 6a A2 Along the inner corner up 10 m A2 (stopper and anchor), then climb up to the niche. After traversing to the left about 5 meters and up the gap, exit onto the shelf. Station on bolts.

R1-R2: 40 m, 6a A2 Easy detour by climbing to the left past the tree, then right up to the base of the vertical crack. Up the crack, aid + climbing. From the old bolt path going up, go to the right along the new bolts with a traverse along the slab and make a station on the bolts above a small grotto.

R2-R3: 30 m, 6a Up the gap overgrown with grass, exit under a slightly overhanging monolithic wall. There is a rotten bolt path along the wall, NO NEED TO GO THERE! Traverse to the right, carefully climb about 10 meters to the bolts with the ring. This is where the Left and Right pants come together.

You can climb around 6a on the left, but you will have to do the station on your own, because There is not enough rope to get out.

“Pants” right route 5B (Golubenko M., Grishchenko Val., Grishchenko Vik., Kiyanitsa N. (Kyiv Avangard team), 1973)

The beginning of the route can be seen from afar. This is the base of a huge rift.

R0-R1: 30 m, I-II approach to the tree at the base of the break. Station on a pine tree.

R1-R2: 40 m, V From a large pine tree along a huge break to its top. Climbing on spreaders from the middle part. There are hooks. Station on three bolts at the top of the break.

R3-R4: 50 m, VI, A1 Up the system of vertical slots. Do not climb onto the old bolt path that goes to the right. The station is on new bolts at the intersection with the left option of the “Pants” route. Further routes have a common continuation.

R3-R4: 50 m 6c A1 From the station, difficult climbing along the slab to the crack, then along the crack, mostly climbing, up to the right, from under the overhanging crack, traverse to the right to the inner corner, and along the corner to the shelf. Station on bolts.
You can approach the station on the left side along the 10 m gap A2 (anchors), but this is more difficult.

R4-R5: 45 m 5s A2 Along the slab with blind slots, on aid, enter the inner corner. Follow it to the shelf. Along the shelf 5m to the left and up, along the right side of the inner corner. Station on bolts.

R5-R6: 50 m VI A1 From the station up the gap to a small tree. Further up the corner. Go around the cornice on the left, then up through a slight overhang to reach the wall with bolts. Along the wall with difficult climbing you reach the Beiser exit. Station on bolts.

The route is well paved with new bolts, especially the middle part, making it difficult to get lost. From the middle it intersects with the left trousers, and on the last rope the path is marked by Haymaking bolts.

Equipment: 60 m rope, anchors and small chocks for aid, medium chocks and medium chocks. Hammers, hooks.

Senonkos 5B (Nadtochiy S., Voloshanovsky M.)

The route begins 20 m to the right of the large break on which the “Right Pants Leg” route begins.

R0-R1: 35 m, V+A2 From the arrow knocked out with a punch, straight up along a thin crack for 10 m, then along the slab in the direction of the bolt. From there, go up to the left, onto the shelf under the cornice. The cornice runs on the right side (there is a bolt). Station in the grotto.

R1-R2: 30 m VI A2 From the station up the left wall of the grotto 5 m using aids (bolts, sky hooks), then climb through the crack with difficult climbing to reach the overhang. Go through the overhang along the bolts to the station.

R2-R3: 30 m V+A2 Along the crack, then along the inner corner upward by climbing, in some places using aid. Station on 2 bolts in front of the overhang.

R3-R4: 50 m VI A3 Go up the steep crack, exit onto the shelf. From there, traverse to the right, to another gap. Follow the gap up to the left, through a slight overhang, and exit onto the shelf. Station on bolts.

R4-R5: 50 m VI A1 From the station up the gap to a small tree. Further up the corner. Go around the cornice on the left, then up through a slight overhang to reach the wall with bolts. Along the wall with difficult climbing you reach the Beiser exit. Station on bolts.

Previously the route had category 6A. There is a lot of stationary iron on the route. Overall the route is safe. Started on January 6, 1994 by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochi (Terrorist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Michel). Completed in May 1994 by Terrorist solo. The route is a natural watercourse, because of this the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, therefore, the Terrorist called his route “Haymaking”.

Travel time 6-8 hours.

Corner 5A (Nosov A. - Kalinichenko M. (Sevastopol), 1975)
The route was repaired by A. Lavrinenko’s team in April 2013. The stations are equipped with new bolts and rappel rings. The route consists of an internal corner of varying steepness, running mainly in struts. Sometimes there are small overhangs.

R0-R1: 35m V+ The first station on the large shelf at the start of the route. The first cornice is on the right. Then to the left through the buzzing break to the beginning of the vertical inner corner. Then up the inside corner. Station with bolts.

R1-R2: 25 m V+ Up through a slight overhang (F6a). The location of the semi-hanging station on friends and large bookmarks in front of the cornice is not very convenient for two due to the high friction of the rope.
R2-R3: 40m V+ The cornice goes around to the left (F6a). Further climbing becomes easier. The gap becomes positive and leads to the right into a large fireplace. Station bolts on the breakaway left side of the large fireplace. Lots of rope friction!!!

R3-R4: 10 m VI A2, 10 m V+, 10 m VI A2 From the station up 10 m along the microrelief by climbing (F6b) or using aid A2. The terrain for belaying is poor. A relief skyhook and perhaps an anchor would be useful. Then either to the right through the overhang onto the yayla, or an unpleasant traverse to the left under the cornice. The left option is easier.

A very logical and beautiful line. In some places the line wobbles, causing friction on the rope. Hammers and hooks are a must. Large embedded elements work well. Difficult last rope.

Large fireplace SE wall 3B (Tkachenko G., 1978)
The beginning of the route is the base of a large fireplace, which is clearly visible even from the beach.

R0-R1: 25m, II The first station on bolts, common with the corner. To the right along simple rocks into the base of a large fireplace.

R1-R2: 40 m, III+ From the base of the fireplace straight up the right wall. Sometimes old hooks are found. Tree station.

R2-R3: 30 m (20 m III; 10 m V) From the tree the line goes to the right beyond the bend. Poor hearing. Through a slight overhang to vertical rocks with an internal corner on the left. It is better not to climb into the corner, although old hooks are visible there. From this place, go down to the right and go out to a convenient platform with a large tree.

R3-R4: 25m IV+ Along the oblique crack to the left of the tree, up to the right, go out under a small cornice. He walks around the crack on the right. Then up to the tree. Station on a tree or on your own.

R4-R5: 30 m (25 m III; 5 m V A1) From the station, go up to the right, along the inner corner, then through a 5-meter vertical wall, into the inner corner, and along it to the top. Tree station near the edge.

Impressions: Long approach, includes sections that are not typical for routes of the third category. Small and medium-sized embedded elements work well. You can climb without hammers.

"Integral" 5A (Gorbunov A. – Kholoptsev A. (Odessa)

The route got its name because of the characteristic gap at the top of the wall. The approach to the beginning of the route begins above the Leningrad parking lots. The path goes along the shelves to the right side of the wall. The line begins almost above the Burevestnik sector.

R0-R1: 60 m III+ To the left up along a faint inner corner to a large juniper. Station on a slab on a tree.

R1-R2: 15 m IV, 15 m V+, 10 m II From the tree, go to the right into the inner corner, which turns into an obvious gap. Beautiful climbing and a psychologically challenging climb to the shelf. Station (anchors, bookmarks) 10 m to the left standing on a shelf on a slab at the base of the inner corner going up.

R2-R3: 50 m IV+ Along the inner corner to the left up to the overhang, then to the right of the overhang along the crack to a small grotto. The station is in the grotto at its points (bookmarks, anchors).

R3-R4: 60m V Logical climb up the inside corner. Lots of living rocks, grass, soil and lichen. The station is at its points in the gap (hexes).

R4-R5: 40 m V+ 10 m V, A0 Up the inner corner leading into an overhanging fireplace. The fireplace is held open. Backpacks will get in the way. Then a complex overhanging corner of 10 m with 3 bolts and a hook. You can climb 6b+ - 6c, or A0. Station on new bolts.

R6-R7: 40m III Simple climbing up a logical gap. Then to the right along the positive relief to the yayla. Under the top, the possibilities for organizing belay are limited: about 10-15 m. Station on a yayla on a tree.

Overall the route is strenuous. Requires organizing your own stations. Large embedded elements and hexes work well. Hooks and hammers are a must. At times there is a lot of live rock, grass and lichen.
Parabola 3B
The route runs along the right side of the Southeast bastion of Kush-Kaya. The beginning coincides with the beginning of the Integral route. The approach to the beginning of the route begins above the Leningrad parking lots. The path goes along the shelves to the right side of the wall. The line begins almost above the Burevestnik sector.
R0-R1: 45m III The beginning is the same as the “Integral” route. From the shelf, climb 20 m along the inner corner, then go right to a large tree. Further up to the base of the inner corner. Complexity is unevenly distributed.
R1-R2: 40 m II From the tree station along simple slots to the inner corner, which leads to a shelf with two junipers. Tree station.
R2-R3: 45m V Along the inner corner 15 m up, then to the right to the tree to the right under the yellow cornice.. Key rope
R3-R4: 40m III Up positive rocks of medium difficulty onto a small shelf.
R4-R5: 45 m III To the left, past the overhang along a system of cracks onto a large shelf.
R5-R6: 40 m II To the right, choosing the easiest path to move to the yayla. Station on bolts.
A difficult route in its category, requiring the ability to navigate the terrain well. The relief is very rich. Not recommended as first threes. There is a chance to go to more difficult rocks. You can go without hammers.

Through the sole on the right 4A (Vorobyev M., Nesterov V., Pavlov Yu. (Sevatopol), 1995)

To begin the route, you need to go through the “Africa” sector and go left onto the scree going up.

R0-R1: 45m II Start along the scree, going to the right. Tree station.

R1-R2: 45 I Up along light rocks. Station on a tree.

R2-R3: 40m I To the right towards a large tree along light rocks. Juniper station.

R3-R4: 25 III Along the inner corner to the shelf with the tree.

R4-R5: 40m III Diagonally to the right exit into the bowl. Tree station.

R6-R7: 45 m III Along the positive relief and the gap upward. Tree station.

R7-R8: 45 m III Up the crack. Tree station.

R8-R9: 45m III Up to a convenient shelf with trees. Juniper station.

R9-R10: 45m III You need to go down from the shelf and go to the right of the fireplace. There is no need to go into the fireplace. Tree station.

R10-R11: 5m V, 25m III From the tree up the overhanging gap 5 m. Key area. Then simply climb to the exit to the yayla

Equipment: standard set. There is little stationary iron on the route. It is advisable to have hammers.

Area

Place

Crimea, South coast, from Batiliman to Cape Aya.

Time

The best time is May holidays or October.

Transfer

By train to Sevastopol, then by minibus-taxi to Batiliman. To catch profitable transport, hang around railway station and within 15 minutes everything will form by itself. You can also get there by regular bus. From the bus station (it is located next to the railway station) there are regular buses to Yalta, Simeiz, Alupka. Drive to the village of Laspi. Further (about 5 km) either hitchhiking or walking. If you are staying at the main parking lots near Kush-Kaya, then go to the pumping booth (located on the right side of the road, below is the Batiliman recreation center), this is located a little before the fork in the roads to the sanatorium "Cape Aya" and the sanatorium "Chaika"

Where to stand and how to live

The best parking place by the sea is not far from the so-called “Midiyka”, the landmark is the “Recreation Area” with cafes to the left of the road. Here you unload and go down from the site along a wide path towards the building with antennas. From it to the left, along the shore, look for a free area and set up camp. Then it’s worth taking a walk in the opposite direction from the building with the antennas and making yourself known at the “Forest Cordon”. Here you will be given a price for accommodation and after a moderate payment they will stop bothering you with daily visits from foresters. Clean water is collected at the cordon, garbage is collected in containers next to the Forest Cordon. You can also live right under the mountain. There are many parking areas on both sides of the trail that runs along Kush Kai, above the road. Water can be taken on the territory of the boarding house "M. Aya". One source is located 50 meters from the entrance to the sanatorium (it sometimes dries up by May), the second is located on the beach of the sanatorium - a pipe with fresh water comes out in the area of ​​the first breakwater.

Helpful information

Mobile communications on the entire coast work excellent.

The telephone numbers of the Forest Cordon and the Sevastopol KSO may be useful. It would be a good idea to know the telephone number of the boarding house at Aya, but people there are uncontactable and people with ropes are not welcome.

Climbing objects

If we conditionally divide the Cape Aya - Kush-Kaya massif into sectors, then sector 1 includes routes to the top of the Aya massif, which is limited by the sea on the west, and on the east by cornices - the Samoded route 6 kt. All routes in this part are difficult and long. The next sector - sector 2, stretches from Samoded to the western part of Kush-Kai. Sector 3 runs from the western slope of Kush-Kaya to the Southern ridge, which divides Kush-Kaya in two. Sector 4 from the Southern ridge to the eastern slopes of Kush-Kai.

Sector 1 (metro station Aya)

Sector 2 (metro station Aya)

Sector 3

Sector 4

Approaches

Most of the routes in this sector start from the so-called “gray cup”, which is formed by rocks east of the South Ridge. In the lower right part of the cup there is a large yellow spot - the “yellow wall”. The approaches start from the “Recreation Area”, then along the road towards Laspi to the post with a road sign on the left? along the way. Here is the exit to the path, go left under a rocky valley with a platform. From the site to the right, up through simple rocks 20-30 m to an obvious, well-trodden path with a path up to a convenient site under monolithic simple gray rocks. Here it is recommended to contact - the first pitch to the field at the base of the gray cup. From here, select directions for routes in accordance with the descriptions.

Descent from Kush-Kai

The best landmark is the ruins of the Temple of St. Ilya at the top. From the top along the path, going around the ruins on the left, down, keeping to the main path, reach the Sevastopol - Yalta highway in the pass area. Here you will find several cafes and a restaurant where you can have a snack. To further descend, you need to return 500 m to the exit from the trail to the highway and begin descending along the old highway. The entrance to the highway is blocked by a barrier with a “brick”. If you do not go to the pass, you can turn right off the trail earlier, but it is better to do this with a knowledgeable guide. An even shorter path is the “Monkey Trail”, to the right of Asymptote. The beginning of the trail is “caught” on the treeless part of the yayla, 20 meters from the edge of the cliff. The trail first goes through open space, in the area of ​​​​the exit from “Asymptote” it dives into the forest. Stay on the most well-trodden and largest path at all times. She walks all the time at a slight distance from the ever-lowering wall of Kush-kai. In two places of 5-7 meters there is a “monkey climb” - simple climbing down the rocks. At the bottom, the trail crosses the old road twice, moving down to the existing Laspi-Aya highway. After the rain - ATTENTION - steep slippery clay slopes!

Climbing objects

Sector "Africa"

Sector "Petrel"

Sources:

1. Solomentsev Valentin
2. Yurkin Alex

This summer I had a chance to visit Crimea. I traveled along it quite closely and, among other things, visited the top of Mount Sokol or Kush-Kaya. “Kush-Kaya” translated from Turkic means “Bird Rock”, and there are several such mountains in Crimea... but there is only one Sokol. So let's call it that!

For its majestic and powerful appearance, the Genoese called this mountain Senator. People saw the bird and nicknamed it “Mount Falcon”. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t see the bird. The height of the mountain is 475 m, length 1200 m, width from 800 to 1000 m. It is an ancient petrified coral reef, by the way the largest in Europe. It was formed 138-165 million years ago, when this area was the bottom of the ancient Tethys Ocean. Nowadays there are no corals or sponges - only junipers and Crimean pines...

There are two ways to climb the mountain. Along a sheer cliff is a path for climbers, who have routes of all levels of difficulty on Sokol. The second path along the path is a road for tourists who are tired of warming their bellies on the beach and want unknown sensations associated with physical activity.

Although at first the ascent was just a pleasant walk through a pretty forest. Our charming guide told us about plants, nature and a little history. We walked along the so-called Golitsyn water pipeline; pipes were laid along this path through which mountain spring water flowed into the village. Along the way, the remains of pipes stuck out of the ground here and there. And there was also a bench:

Another interesting thing (in addition to many plants) we came across was this bridge. And a spring that contained clean and tasty water. On the site of the spring there was once a monastery of St. Anastasia.. Ironically, we climbed the mountain on the very day of her memory. The water from the source is considered holy, we came across people carrying hefty bottles of it...

Behind the spring, in fact, the hill began to slowly climb up, and the shadows became less and less...

But I already was beautiful view to the village "New World":

There are a lot of beautiful plants on the mountain, mainly pine trees... two types predominate - Crimean pine and pike-perch pine.

They are all very bizarrely “curved”. The higher you go, the more diverse the pine trees are. This happens because there is a strong wind in the mountains...

From a geological point of view, the mountain has a four-tiered structure. Below is a layer of clayey shale, then a large layer of conglomerate, on which lie thick layers of sandstone, above which the mountain massif itself is located. The mountain itself is composed of Upper Jurassic recrystallized limestones with numerous fossil remains of colonial corals, algae and sponges. I kept trying to find the fossil, but it didn't work out =(
(But from another Crimean “hill” - Cape Alchak, I did bring back a prehistoric souvenir =)

The further we went up, the harder it was to walk and the more beautiful it was to view the surroundings. They asked the conductor if there were any cases where someone did not get there. The conductor said that once there was an elderly woman. This was reassuring.

Then we had to climb the rocks. By the way, it turned out to be very easy - the rocks are comfortable and not slippery at all. And climbing them is not at all scary, although it is moderately tiring.

In total, the mountain had several platforms that had to be climbed... it was difficult to climb, but still not very difficult. Before the last push to the top, a surprising thing happened for our guide - three people left the race at once... despite the fact that the top was just a stone's throw away...

Then there was the final push...

And here it is - the top... from it a stunning view opens - on the right, somewhere below, the village of Novy Svet, on the left, in a light haze, the city of Sudak. The houses seemed toy-like and unreal, and kites were soaring in the sky (or maybe falcons, I recognized them by their cry of “kurly”). It looks amazing - a bird of prey soaring in space at a great height... you can’t even see them from below.
And at the top of the mountain there was something special to breathe... it was quiet and calm there. All the problems, all the affairs, everything is somewhere below... You experience something similar on the roof, only there you feel not involved in the bustle below, but here - its complete absence.




It was such a walk. We descended back silently and especially without looking to the sides =) Still, this thing is tiring - climbing 475 meters above sea level =))

In the middle of the path from Sudak to the New World, Mount Kush-Kaya stretches up right above the sea coast. Translated from Turkic - Bird-rock. In ancient times, people imagined the rock in the form of a proud bird, ready to take flight. Nowadays the peak is most often called Sokol. Although she looks more like a stern guardian of the sea coast.

Helpful information:
The height above sea level is 478 m, the length along the coast is 1208 m. In origin, it is a giant coral reef formed 140-160 million years ago on the bottom of the Tethys Ocean from colonies of sponges and corals.

Photo of Mount Sokol in the New World

Historical excursion to Kush-Kaya

The area near Mount Kush-Kaya is considered an archaeological reserve. The ruins of ancient settlements of the 1st–5th centuries AD are preserved in the juniper thickets. In the Dmitraki tract you can see a cave monastery and the remains of a temple from the Byzantine era of the 8th–12th centuries. The burial place of the medieval bishop Stephen of Sourozh was found near the peak of Perchem.

Useful information for tourists

Video mountain observer:

Popular routes to Mount Sokol

Extreme sportsmen and thrill-seekers practice their rock climbing skills on western slope. There are more than twenty climbing routes with difficulty levels of 1-4 danger categories.

For those not looking for adventure, we offer walking routes from Sudak.

If you come from the direction of Sudak, then the trail begins near the Devil’s Finger rock, goes around it to the left and leads into the thickets of Crimean oaks. Gradually rising, the path will lead to the southern slope of the mountain. Then along the ridge to the very high point. There is a small recreation area here.

It’s even more interesting to climb Sokol from the New World. A well-trodden path begins from the house-museum of Lev Golitsyn “House of Champagne Wines” New World”. Locals and the tourists you meet will always tell you how not to go astray.

In archival documents, the name of Mount Sokol has been mentioned since the acquisition of the Paradise estate by Prince Lev Golitsyn in 1878 (now called Novy Svet). Guests coming to the estate loved to wander around the surrounding area. It became fashionable among noble citizens to perform hiking through coniferous and juniper groves. The benefits of walking for the purpose of general health promotion, and as a prevention of tuberculosis, were substantiated by the famous professor Sergei Petrovich Botkin. One of the routes was laid to the source of St. Anastasia, further to the peak of Sokolenki, and, for the most stubborn, to Mount Sokol.

Another legend says that Golitsyn had an idea to build a castle for his daughter on the top of Sokolenka. Lev Sergeevich has already paved the road from the house to the site of future construction. The implementation of the insidious plan to ruin the prince was prevented. The road, which in some places has powerful support columns, still exists, it is clearly visible, and it is not difficult to find.

Useful information for tourists
Having climbed to the top of Sokol, orient yourself according to the cardinal directions and you will find out which peaks are in front of you. In the west, behind the village of Novy Svet, is Cape Kapchik and the Karaul-Oba rocks. In the east, Sudak, the Genoese fortress, Cape Meganom are clearly visible. With good visibility, the peaks of the Kara-Dag loom. In the southwest, inquisitive minds will consider the huge Crimean plateau of Babugan-yayla and highest peak Crimean peninsula mountain. To the north of you are the Perchem and Frog rocks.

Video mountain observer:

Mount Sokol on the map of Crimea

GPS Coordinates: 44°50’10.00, 34°55’40.00 Latitude/Longitude