A traveling mood! The famous thirty! Let's go on a hike VKontakte Route golden thirty waypoints
The famous "Thirty" - legendary route 30 through the mountains to the sea
Overnight stays at camp sites and in stationaryshelters, movement Withlight backpack, cook cooks
The route was restored by the company SV-Astur in 2001, certified instructors work with the group. Joining a group fromone person
Route 30 passes through the famous Fisht. Fisht is one of the most grandiose and significant natural monuments in Russia, the closest to Moscow high mountains. Tourists travel lightly through all the landscape and climatic zones of the country from the foothills to the subtropics, spending the night in shelters.
Arrivals in 2019
year The restored Thirty is 19 years old
June: 10.06 – 16.06; 17.06 – 23.06; 24.06 - 30.06
July: 01.07 – 07.07; 08.07 – 14.07; 15.07 – 21.07; 22.07 - 28.07; 29.07 - 04.08
August: 05.08 – 11.08; 12.08 – 18.08; 19.08 - 25.08; 26.08 - 01.09
September: 02.09 - 08.09; 09.09 - 15.09
Valid on arrival days transfer from Krasnodar railway station at 06.30, from the airport at 07.00, 500 rubles per person
1 day. Check-in or to a hotel with similar conditions during the day, accommodation in rooms with amenities on site, meeting with the instructor. Walk to the Through Cave.Lunch at the camp site. Eexcursion to an unequipped part of the Belaya River canyon. The canyon displays amazing, unique, talented works of stone art created by nature. Getting to know the area. (See website pages - Canyon, Khadzhokh Mountain Resort After dinner, an evening of dating, gatherings around the fire.
Day 2. Hiking to the Rufabgo gorge (the main natural monument of this area). On the route you will see five picturesque waterfalls, see the website page - Rufabgo Falls, examine the grotto - the site of a primitive man and the surrounding rocks covered with lush vegetation. Lunch in the gorge near a tourist fire. Return to the camp site via observation decks. In the evening, songs with a guitar on the fire pit.
Day 3. Training hike to the Meshoko gorge. The gorge is located away from popular tourist trails, but also has picturesque waterfalls, beautiful grottoes, and caves. All around are chestnut and beech forests. These are the sites of Neanderthal settlements, which are 120 - 130 thousand years old. A huge accumulation of burial mounds from the Zikh, Kasozh, Meotosarmatian and Scythian periods keep the secret of the peoples who existed here. The path runs along a clean rocky stream bed polished with water, lunch in the gorge. In the evening we hand over things not needed on the main hike to be sent to Dagomys. Preparing for the main hike, see the website pages: Meshoko Gorge
4 day. Bus transfer Khadzhokh - Lago-Naki plateau. Hiking to the Fisht shelter. On this day you will pass the Stone Sea ridge, four easy passes, and visit the subalpine and alpine zones. Lunch in the alpine near the karst lake. In the first half of summer, part of the route passes through snowfields. This is the most interesting and eventful day of the route. In the evening, flag raising and gatherings around the fire.
Day 5Shelter "Fisht" - radial access to the Small Glacier of Mount Fisht. On this day you will visit the classic nival zone (the zone of bare rocks, eternal ice and snow). There will be mountain gorges at your feet. See the site page: Mountains of Russia, Mountain Legends, Fisht. Lunch at the shelter. For those who want to climb the huge boulder Fishtenok. Bonfire in the evening.
Day 6Shelter "Fisht" - lane. Belorechensky - shelter "Babuk-aul". On this day, you will find two easy passes (where there is a telephone connection) and a long, “Merry” descent into the subtropical zone through beech forests of the Colchis type.In the evening, presentation of the state award -iconand IDRussian tourist, see Photos from the route.
Day 7 Shelter"Babuk-aul" - the village of Solokh-aul - Dagomys. We will spend this day in the humid subtropics, walk through a boxwood grove, see lush and lush vegetation, several waterfalls, and many rare and beautiful rock forms. Lunch at the Bzych River.
bus transfer to the village. Dagomys, after 17.00 arrival in Dagomys. In Dagomys, receiving personal belongings handed over in Khadzhokh. Those interested can independently book a hotel on the coast
The cost of the tour is 17,900 rubles.
Children over 10 years old have a 10% discount.Children over 14 years old and students have a 5% discount.We recommend taking children from 12 years old, sports children from 10 years old. Children are not allowed on the first run.
The cost of the program includes:accommodation at a camp site and tourist shelters,3 meals a day, cook services at the camp site and shelters,instructor services,internal shuttle transport,transportation of things (resort) from Khadzhokh to Dagomys,delivery of almost all food and gas to shelters,rental of group equipment, satellite communication in case of emergency,entrance fees (except entertainment center Khadzhokh Gorge), group first aid kit,fee for staying in the reserve.
The program price does not include: travel, sleeping bag rental - 400 rubles per trip,backpack - 700 rubles, rug 100 rubles.
Required personal equipment:backpack (50 - 70 liters),personal sleeping bag and mat,rain cover,hiking shoes - sneakers or hiking boots,replacement shoes,shower slippers,warm tracksuit and sweater,nylon wind suit,long-sleeve shirt,wide brim hat, flashlight, bottle for water, personal utensils, seat
Book this tour
Payment for the tour is possible at the company’s representative office in Khadzhokh, booking in Moscow by phone, email: through the application form. Please provide the following information to the Moscow office: full name, date of birth with day and month, your city, mobile. telephone. After purchasing a train or plane ticket, send a copy by email.
Photos from the route different years and months, displayed chronologically.
Lago-Naki, all-Union route No. 30 “Through the mountains to the sea.” Day 1
The idea to walk the famous all-Union hiking route No. 30, “thirty” as it is called, appeared in the winter, by chance, while looking at some travel blogs.
It should be noted that we are cyclist tourists, we almost never walk with a backpack on our back, except for weekend hikes of 50 km and lightly...
But the photographs of alpine meadows were so attractive that it was decided that we had to go.
Go on your own, of course. Fitting into commercial groups with unfamiliar tourists and paying instructors was not even considered.
All information on the route “from scratch” was collected on the Internet, bit by bit.
Here I will post it as a guide for novice tourists going there for the first time. Six months ago, such a reference book with answers to all the questions of a “teapot” would have been very useful to me.
1. Physical training
The first thing to do before going on a hike is to assess your physical level. Fill your backpack with 10-15 kg and walk 10 kilometers through the forest. Could you? Are you dead? This means you can pass thirty.
If not, you need to study. Walking with a heavy backpack, running up the stairs, squatting, walking on a stepper - exercises to prepare for hiking are simple, but tedious. They went well with me while watching TV series.
Otherwise, it will be like in most reports about amateur hikes - “we walked, dreaming of taking off our backpacks and falling.” And I want to walk through with pleasure, taking photos, with a reserve of strength.
After scouring the Internet, I came up with the following list:
Are you physically ready for the climb?, if you can (do not do the exercises all at once, but at different times):
run at any pace for 8 km (or an hour according to time);
do pull-ups on the horizontal bar 7 times for men and 1 time for girls; squat on one leg 3 times;
do push-ups from the floor 20 times; run back and forth up the stairs of a 9-story building three times;
squat on both legs 50 times.
Are you more or less ready for the climb?, if you can:
run at any pace for 5 km (or 30 minutes in time);
pull up on the horizontal bar 4 times for men and 2 times with support on one leg for girls;
squat on one leg 1 time; do push-ups from the floor 15 times;
run back and forth up the stairs of a 5-story building twice;
squat on both legs 40 times.
You need to do physical training If:
run at any pace for no more than 3 km;
do pull-ups on the horizontal bar 2 times for men and 1 time with support on one leg for girls;
I can’t squat on one leg once;
cannot do push-ups more than 10 times;
it’s impossible to run back and forth up the stairs of a 9-story building more than once;
squat on both legs 30 times or less.
I had six months to improve my physical fitness a little.
The fact is that good physical shape of a cyclist (or any other sport) is not an indicator of good physical shape for a hiker. The muscles are sometimes developed in a way that is not at all what is needed for a monotonous climb up a mountain or down a mountain.
Six months was basically enough to prepare physically without fanaticism.
2. Route
Since we went without an instructor, we needed a well-developed route, a track for the navigation program. We use the free Maps.me program on our smartphone.
Suitable tracks were found on the website www.gpsies.com, but we modified it a little. You can take our track of the Thirty route along Lago-Naki as a basis.
By the way, the planned route was longer, but due to the abundance of snow it had to be shortened.
If you download this track in KML format, upload it to your smartphone and open it in the Maps.me program, you will have a ready-made route - you can go. The overnight stays are marked as we spent the night.
3. Equipment
We did not plan to climb mountains with glaciers. This requires equipment in the form of crampons, ice axes, rope and the ability to use it all.
Therefore, our equipment was purely tourist equipment.
Perhaps the list will be useful to someone as a guide:
- tent (our double weighed 2.4 kg) two-layer, without a skirt
- trekking poles
- backpacks for 55 liters (for me and Andrey), 75 liters for Yurka. The volume of the backpack also depends on how the equipment is divided within the group. You carry your own tent, or you divide the tent into parts between two or three people.
- sleeping bags for comfort temperature -9, -5, 0 (everyone is different)
- membrane jacket against rain and wind
- compact travel down jacket (mine is made with artificial down - primaloft)
- a set of thin thermal underwear (for walking) and warm (for sleeping)
- 3 pairs of socks and underwear, 2 sports tops (not bras, uncomfortable under a backpack)
- 1 pair of warm fleece socks for sleeping
- hat, fleece gloves, bandana-pipe-buff - for the neck, for the head from the sun, multifunctional
- T-shirt-thermal underwear for active use, for walking during the day
- shorts
- trousers made of thick, strong fabric, quick-drying synthetics, reinforced with condor inserts
- trekking high boots with membrane
- summer sandals
- boots made of EVA (for long rests, for parking). Bought for 700 rub. in the workwear department, they weigh little, are waterproof, needed when you need to change wet boots in the parking lot and walk in the snow
- toothbrush, toothpaste, comb, light manicure set, microfiber towel
- sunscreen with an index of at least 50
- Sunglasses (!)
From food:
- dried meat
- pasta 1 kg
- buckwheat 1 kg
- sugar, tea, coffee approximately 200 g each
- dry bread
- 2 sticks of raw smoked sausage per person
- sweets, nuts, dried fruits 300 g per person
We cooked on burners; it took 2 gas cylinders for three people for 5 days.
Water was taken from streams, waterfalls and springs, which were abundant there.
The weather in these places in summer ranges from +25 during the day to -5 at night, so you need to dress accordingly.
4. A story about the route and a photo report
For us, the trip began with the purchase of Samara-Krasnodar tickets. There are two buses a day from Krasnodar to the village of Kamennomostsky - we look at the schedule in advance on Yandex Schedule.
In Kamennomostsky we checked into a pre-booked guest house. We booked through the Ostrovok website and chose the guest house "Lago-Naki", Solnechnaya Street, 6, based on prices, photos and reviews. The houses were empty, the beginning of the season... Beauty.
If the link is still valid, then here you go.
The first day we made a radial hike through the local natural beauty - we went to the Khadzhokh Gorge and the waterfalls of the Rufabgo River. In order to avoid paying to get onto the trail, we took an alternative route.
Here is a track on how to visit the Rufabgo waterfalls and the Khadzhokh Gorge for free - download KML, open it in maps.mi, go... We went further, there are a lot of trails there, you can see them in the navigator.
Belaya River.
Rock Sail.
Waterfall.
In general, you can spend a whole day walking there. The main thing is not to forget to take a snack with you!
In the evening, we called local car owners to drop us off at the reserve checkpoint.
As part of the conspiracy, local drivers estimate 40 kilometers from the village to the checkpoint at 1,500 rubles per car.
The next day at 8 am we started from Kamennomostsky to Lago-Naki.
The first day.
Checkpoint Lago-Naki - Fisht shelter
At the checkpoint, the first thing we had to do was coordinate the route. We imagined a difficult and interesting one for 7-9 days, but the forester immediately said that you won’t pass this way.
Heavy snowfalls this winter and a cold, protracted spring have made adjustments - most of Even the standard trail of route No. 30 is still covered in snow, and even more so higher up, on other trails.
We had to simplify the route - we decided to go standard for the first time, not to show off. And then somehow come back and go a different way.
The beauty began almost immediately outside the checkpoint gate, but I controlled myself and didn’t take 10,500 pictures per second.
The realization that now we would go there, beyond the horizon, was somehow even frightening. And the krantets backpack was still heavy. Mine weighed about 13 kilograms, the guys weighed more. And we still squeezed as much as we could, trying to get rid of excess weight and everything that is not particularly necessary!
The mood is cheerful, but the weather forecast with daily rain somehow saddens me a little, so I don’t feel much happiness or anticipation of getting wet on my face.
In fact, everything turned out to be not so scary.
We got wet through and through, of course, but given the fatigue, we didn’t care about that and slept soundly.
In general, you should not piss and go to the mountains.
At this altitude it is not yet summer (it is the beginning of June), it is still spring here.
Streams gurgle and spring flowers bloom.
Blue distances of the mountains, sunny, warm. You can get sunburned in half an hour; sunscreen is not a luxury here, but a means of salvation. Moreover, with such a good protective factor of 50, for example.
And here are the first snows, still in the distance.
The road slowly rises higher and higher. There are no sharp climbs yet, but the pull-up exercises exhausts your strength thoroughly.
You have to cross snowfields carefully, poking with sticks - under the layer of snow there may be a knee-deep stream.
We go up to the Armyanka River. Here, commercial groups that travel smoothly usually spend the night.
9 kilometers covered.
It’s lunch time, we decide to have a snack with sandwiches and drink hot tea.
The shepherds' houses are locked, the Armyanka River is still covered in snow...
After eating and resting, we decide that today we are able to overcome the second route day at once, which is another 10 kilometers.
We decided to spend the night at the Fisht shelter.
Why do we go hiking? Of course, kissing :)
Pass Instructor's gap.
The road climbed steadily, and there were more and more snowfields.
The snow is loose, and in principle it was possible to walk along the slope in trekking boots, properly sticking trekking poles in and practicing a herringbone or ladder step, as if you were climbing a mountain on a skier.
Meanwhile, clouds came towards us from the neighboring mountains...
And the higher the trail took us, constantly getting lost in the snow, the colder it became. The air was already chilly, wintry, and damp.
Snake Lake has only half opened from under the snow...
But in it the frogs were already having sex with might and main and producing whole mountains of caviar.
"Thirty" - probably the most popular and most beautiful tourist route of the former USSR, and maybe even the whole world :) The "Thirtieth Route" passes through the Western Caucasus, where you can see the transition from low-mountain forested ridges to majestic mountains, covered with powerful snow caps, glaciers, with mighty rock walls. On the South Side of Main Caucasian ridge subtropical rain forests are located. In the lowlands, where the water has time to warm up, you can swim in mountain rivers filled with water from melting glaciers on the Fisht and Oshten mountains.
The uniqueness of hiking in the Caucasus and, in particular, this route lies in the wide variety of climatic zones and landscapes through which it passes. Here you can see: Kuban steppes, forests - coniferous and broad-leaved, alpine meadows, powerful waterfalls, rushing rivers and, of course, the beautiful peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. Having climbed to the top of Oshten, you will be convinced that the mountains here are the most real! And at the end of the hike from the glaciers, the permafrost zone, crossing the Caucasus ridge, you will find yourself in the real subtropics with palm trees and blooming magnolia on the Black Sea coast.
Since 2012, our experienced guides have guided hundreds of tourists along this wonderful route, so hurry up and give yourself the joy of exploring the unique nature of the Caucasus.
Long live "Thirty"!
Day 1: Khadzhokh - canyon of the Belaya River. Rufabgo Falls
Meeting the group at the Krasnodar railway station. Transfer to Hadzhokh (4 hours). Our journey begins in the mountain resort of Khadzhokh (another name is the village of Kamennomostsky) on the territory of the Republic of Adygea. We will explore local attractions, including the Belaya River canyon and Rufabgo waterfalls. The raging waters of the river, sandwiched in the bizarre boulders of the canyon, make an indelible impression. Leaving our backpacks at the camp, we will go to the picturesque waterfalls of the Rufabgo stream. Along its bed there are 7 small waterfalls, among them: Noise, Cascade, Heart of Rufabgo, Lace. The 15-meter high Lace is the most spectacular and highest of the local waterfalls. We spend the night in a cozy clearing near a deep river.
Day 2: Checkpoint - Abadzesh Pass - Lago-Naki Plateau
In order not to walk for a day and a half on asphalt, we move by minibus or car to the checkpoint on the Lago-Naki plateau, register with the Ministry of Emergency Situations and purchase tickets to the Caucasian Nature Reserve. In front of us is the Lago-Naki plateau - green hills, flowers, snowfields. Then the beautiful Mount Oshten will appear before our eyes, and the landscape will change from steppe to alpine. We pass through the Abadzesh Pass and go out to the Chopped Brook. This is where we will spend the night. On this and the next few days we cook food on a gas burner.
Distance - 10 km
Day 3: Radial climb to Oshten (2804 m)
Today we will climb Mount Oshten radially (without backpacks). Along the stones, avoiding the remnants of snow, we reach the ridge and climb along it to the top. So we conquered the top of Oshten! We will see panoramas of Fisht, the Armenian Ridge and other magnificent mountains. There is mobile coverage at the top. We go down to the camp and spend the night.
Distance 14 km
Day 4: Guzeripl Pass - Armenian Pass - Fisht Shelter - Small Fishtinsky Glacier
We leave the camp and go to the shelter under Mount Fisht, admiring the magnificent mountain views along the way. Having passed the Guzeripl and Armenian passes, we will go down to the Belaya River with a very powerful current, it is dangerous to swim in it. Here is the Fisht tourist camp, where you can order a bath or take a shower. We put up tents, there will already be a forest here, we cook with wood. Since there is a lot of time left until the evening, there is an opportunity to go on a radial route to the Small Fisht Glacier.
Distance 8 km
Day 5: Fisht-Oshten pass - Lake Psenodakh
Today's program includes overcoming the Fisht-Oshten pass, after descending from which we will go to Lake Psenodakh. It's a nice shallow one Mountain Lake has the shape of a crescent. Nearby rises the beautiful Pshekho-Su mountain, covered with snow. Let's go even further and set up camp on the banks of the Tsitsa River.
Distance 13 km
Day 6: Maykop pass - Vodopadny stream - waterfall 200 m
Let's go back a little to Lake Psenodakh. Next we will approach the cliffs of the Lago-Naki plateau and descend along the steep Maikop Pass. After a snack, we will go to the waterfall stream to see the incredibly spectacular waterfall, which is 200 meters high!
Distance 11 km
Day 7: Moonlight Glade - Circassian Pass - Cheerful Descent - Babuk-Aul - Shakhe River
We go to the Circassian pass. On the way we will pass through Moonlight Glade, where Putin’s dacha is located. A stele was erected at the Circassian Pass in memory of those killed during the Great Patriotic War. And then we have a long “fun” descent through the beech forest. Here we will have to drop about 1.5 km of altitude. It's not easy, but the proximity of the sea will give us strength. In the evening we go to the Babuk-Aul shelter, this is also the territory of the reserve, and we will spend the night here. The Shakhe River flows nearby, the water here is already warm, you can comfortably splash around in it.
Distance 22 km
Day 8: Solokh-Aul - Dagomys - Uch-Dere
We will travel by car to Solokh-Aul. In the village of Solokh-Aul there is a tea museum, where you can learn about the interesting fate of the father of Krasnodar tea, Judas Antonovich Koshman. Also in Solokh-Aul there is the opportunity to ride horses and buy honey. From Solokh-Aul we will take a bus to Dagomys. Here is the long-awaited sea! We will spend the night on a wild beach in Uch-Der, this is one train stop from Dagomys. Those who want to relax on the coast for a few more days are better off staying here: here the sea is better and there are fewer people.
Day 9: Sochi - return home
Those who wish remain at sea. Who needs to go home, we go to Sochi and go in different directions, the bus station and the railway station are 300 meters from each other. Our Thirty trek is completed. See you again in the mountains!
Additional information:
- This is a full-fledged hiking trip. We carry tents, food and other equipment in backpacks.
- Depending on the weather and the condition of the group, the instructor may make changes to the route.
- Payment in cash on the first day of the hike to the instructor. If you leave the route early without a good reason (illness, injury), the money will not be returned!
- Group size is from 5 to 15 participants.
- The improvement of the camp (installation of tents, cooking) is carried out by all participants of the hike.
Tour cost: 11,000 rub.
The tour price includes:
- three meals a day during the trek
- instructor-guide services
- registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations
- satellite phone for emergency communication
- group medical kit
- fire and gas equipment
The tour price does not include:
- equipment rental
- transfers along the route
- entrance to the reserve
- medical insurance
- paid sightseeing
Additional costs will be approximately 4,000 rubles per person.
The legendary "Thirty"
256-day defense of Sevastopol 1941-1942. will undoubtedly remain one of the most striking pages in the history of the 2nd World War. Defenders of the main base Black Sea Fleet thwarted the plans of the German command to attack the Caucasus, influencing the entire course of the war. Played a significant role in this unique coastal batteries of Sevastopol .
The enemy's confession is one of the most valuable evidence. German generals and fortifiers repeatedly admitted that "Fort Maxim Gorky"(under this name the Sevastopol coastal battery No. 30 appears in German documents) was a true masterpiece of engineering art” and what exactly "Fort Maxim Gorky" “due to his exceptional qualities, he was able to delay the fall of Sevastopol for more than six months”. Against "thirty" The German command pulled together the most powerful guns from all over Europe. On the walls of a battery that died in an unequal battle, enemy soldiers wrote: "...the strongest fortress in the world"
Back in 1905, after the war with Japan, the Russian government decided to strengthen the defenses of the naval base in Sevastopol by building two large-caliber coastal batteries on the approaches to the city.
View of Lyubimovka, area 30 of the tower coastal battery (Fort Maxim Gorky I), May 2008.
View of Lyubimovka, area 30 of the tower coastal battery (Fort Maxim Gorky I), May 2008.
Construction coastal defense batteries was started on the Alkadar hill (in the area of the current village of Lyubimovka) in 1913. The battery project was developed by military engineer General N.A. Buynitsky, taking into account the recommendations of the famous Russian fortifier (also a famous composer) General Caesar Antonovich Cui, who, having studied the features of the defense of Sevastopol in 1854-1855 in a special work, proposed the most advantageous position for the battery. At the end of the last century, military engineers followed with great interest Cui's controversy in the press with the German General von Sauer, who believed that the construction of forts had become an expensive but completely useless business. The history of the 2nd defense of Sevastopol confirmed the rightness of the Russian fortifier.
It was, without exaggeration, a brilliant project. Dominion over surrounding area provided two two-gun 305-mm installations, rotating 360 degrees, with all-round fire. Their firing range was 44 kilometers. Located north of Sevastopol, during the Second World War it could fire at both sea and land targets.
Almost 100 years ago, the battery was already planned to be fully electrified. All operations for loading and pointing the gun were performed by 17 electric motors. Only gun turrets with 200 mm armor were supposed to be on the surface. The remaining battery rooms were located in a reinforced concrete block 130 meters long and 50 meters wide. Inside the block, on two floors, there were ammunition cellars, a power station, residential and office premises. In the turret room there was a railway with manual trolleys in which ammunition was delivered to the charger. The battery was to be connected to the command post by a 600-meter underground corridor. Work was carried out until 1914. To this day, intercoms from the beginning of the last century have been preserved on the battery.
Construction of the battery resumed in 1928. A 6.5-kilometer line was laid from the Mekenzievy Gory station to the battery. Massive parts were unloaded from railway platforms and installed in place by a special crane. The battery turrets were equipped with 305-mm guns of the 1913 model (battleship caliber).
In 1934, after test artillery firing at sea targets, the battery became part of the coastal defense units of the Black Sea Fleet with the assignment of No. 30. The first commander of the thirtieth battery was the capital Ermil Donets.
In 1936, the main command post of the battery was built, as well as a system of fire correction posts (at Cape Lukull, at the mouths of the Alma and Kachi rivers, at Capes Khersones and Fiolent, as well as over the western coast
Balaklava Bay). Such a network of observation posts was necessary due to the colossal range of the battery - 44 kilometers. In other words, the battery reached Nikolaevka or Pochtovoy, and Bakhchisarai could be covered with any shell. The Thirty controlled an area of over 5 thousand square kilometers.
In the conning tower of tower battery No. 30: battery commander Captain G.A. Alexander (left) and the battery military commissar, senior political instructor E.K. Solovyov. 1941
In the conning tower of tower battery No. 30: battery commander Captain G.A. Alexander (left) and the battery military commissar, senior political instructor E.K. Solovyov. 1941
In 1937, Captain Georgy Aleksandrovich Alexander took command of the 30th batteries.
By the beginning of World War 2, there were two batteries of this caliber in Sevastopol. In addition to the one located near the village of Lyubimovka "thirty", the fleet base was covered by battery No. 35 at Cape Khersones. Both of them were part of the 1st separate coastal defense artillery division of the Main Base of the Black Sea Fleet. Both batteries were initially built as coastal ones, that is, they were intended to fight enemy ships: the 30th battery covered the area north of Cape Lucullus, the 35th battery was supposed to fire at the sector from Cape Chersonesos to Cape Fiolent. But when German troops broke into Crimea in October 1941, coastal batteries, designed to protect Sevastopol from the sea, became the main caliber of the city’s defense from land.
Sevastopol, Cossack Bay, 35th coastal battery, central entrance to the artillery block (Fort Maxim Gorky 2). May 2008 360 degree panorama
Sevastopol, Cossack Bay, 35th coastal battery, central entrance to the artillery block (Fort Maxim Gorky 2). May 2008 360 degree panorama
It should be noted that the 35th battery was located too far from the German offensive area and only reached the Mekenziev Hills station, and therefore it was the “thirty” that was destined to play such a prominent role in the defense of Sevastopol.
On October 30, 1941, the German 11th Army launched an attack on Sevastopol. The first to enter the battle were the artillerymen of the 54th coastal artillery battery, located 40 km from Sevastopol near the village of Nikolaevka. On November 1, the 30th battery opened fire on the motorized infantry column. The first live firing was carried out by units of Ziegler's mobile group in the area of Alma station (now Pochtovoye).
From entries in the Battery's Combat Log:
With the help of observation points deployed in advance at dominant heights, the battery hit columns of German troops and trains at the Alma and Biyuk-Suren stations. Arriving in Sevastopol, the commander of the Primorsky Army, Major General I. E. Petrov carefully studied the situation, assessed exclusively good location Alexander batteries. The importance of the 30th battery is evidenced by the fact that the Germans conducted one of the main attacks of their December offensive in the area of the Belbek River and the Mackenzie Mountains precisely with the goal of destroying the 30th battery. During the offensive, about 12 enemy tanks approached the battery command post at a distance of 300 meters. The battery opened direct fire on German tanks.
« The situation has become quite difficult, - recalled combat participant D.I. Piskunov, - But then the ground beneath us shook, and there was a nearby explosion of enormous power. Looking out of the trench, I saw that there was nothing there anymore where the tank had just stood and fired! Only clods of earth and some debris fell. It turned out that Alexander's coastal battery hit the tanks with direct fire.».
At the German command 30th battery got the name Fort "Maxim Gorky I" (Battery No. 35 was number two). It was the fighting qualities of the fort that the commander of the German army that stormed Sevastopol, Erich Manstein, justified to the Fuhrer the failures in the storming of Sevastopol.
Poster from 1942
Poster from 1942
Over two months, the 30th battery fired 1,238 rounds at German troops. When fully charged, the battery barrels had to withstand 300 shots - then they needed to be replaced. Therefore the command "thirty" fired with half charges. And yet, by the beginning of 1942, the barrel channels were completely worn out.
Spare 50-ton barrels were removed from a secret storage facility in Sevastopol. On a January night they were transported to the battery and camouflaged. According to the instructions in Peaceful time The battery barrels could be replaced in 60 days using a 75-ton crane. The battery personnel, together with specialists from the Leningrad Bolshevik plant and the Artillery Repair Plant of the Black Sea Fleet No. 1127, replaced the barrels in 16 days manually using a small crane and jacks. Moreover, the front line by that time was 1.5 kilometers from the battery.
In May 1942, the German command launched a new offensive against Sevastopol , under the code name "Störfang"(Sturgeon fishing). Understanding the importance "Fort Maxim Gorky -1" In the city's defense system, the enemy deployed a powerful group of heavy artillery near Sevastopol.
305-mm mortar from the Skoda company, model 1917. The Germans near Sevastopol had 16 such mortars, which fired 4922 shells during the 3rd assault.
305-mm mortar from the Skoda company, model 1917. The Germans near Sevastopol had 16 such mortars, which fired 4922 shells during the 3rd assault.
210-mm mortar Mrs 18 mod. 1918/36
210-mm mortar Mrs 18 mod. 1918/36
It had cannons of up to 194 mm caliber, a division of 210 mm mortars, two divisions of 240 mm heavy howitzers, four batteries of 280 mm howitzers, two divisions of 305 mm mortars, and a battery of two 356 mm mortars. The 624th division was deployed near Sevastopol (each of its three batteries had two 305-mm mortars and three 210-mm Moerzer 18), a battery of 420-mm howitzers, a battery of 420-mm Gamma mortars (installation weight 140 tons , projectile weight 1020 kg; firing range 14 kilometers) and a battery of 280-mm railway gun mounts.
420-mm Gamma-Geraet mortar in position near Sevastopol. Summer 1942
420-mm Gamma-Geraet mortar in position near Sevastopol. Summer 1942
280-mm railway gun "Bruno" in positions near Sevastopol
280-mm railway gun "Bruno" in positions near Sevastopol
In addition, there were 2 special 600 mm caliber guns "Charles" and 800 mm supercannon "Dora".
Siege mortars "Karl" moving on caterpillar tracks, they fired 600-mm concrete-piercing shells weighing over two tons (i.e., twice the caliber of the “thirty” and three times the weight of the projectile). Thus, "Charles" became the largest-caliber and heaviest self-propelled artillery unit. However, the tracks were used only for limited maneuvering at the firing position. Due to the large recoil force, the vehicle lowered its bottom to the ground before firing. According to the designers, the projectile "Carla" penetrated a concrete slab up to 3.5 m thick or 450 mm armor. The low speed of the projectile made it possible to observe it in the air.
Besides two "Karlov" under Sevastopol transferred 800 mm Dora gun . It was the largest weapon in the world used in wars. The gun was transported by 60 trains. The gun barrel had a length of 30 m, and the carriage was the height of a 3-story building. The gun served 5 thousand people, it was commanded by a major general. Guidance along the horizontal plane was carried out by moving the gun along a specially constructed curved section of the three-track railway. The monster fired projectiles from 4 to 7 tons, which pierced armor 1 meter thick or an 8-meter layer of concrete. "Dora" did not have time to storm the Maginot Line, so Sevastopol was to be its first baptism of fire.
800 mm Dora gun
800 mm Dora gun
Firing position for "Dora" chose 2 km east of Bakhchisarai. It took 4 weeks to equip it. On May 26, 1942, the gun was installed in position.
On June 5, 1942 at 5.35 the first concrete-piercing shell was fired at the northern part Sevastopol . The next 8 shells flew into the area of battery No. 30. Columns of smoke from the explosions rose to a height of 160 m, but not a single hit was achieved in the armored turrets; the firing accuracy of the monster gun from a distance of almost 30 km turned out to be, as one would expect, very low .
But it was not “Dora”, but “Karly” that turned out to be the most dangerous enemy of the 30th battery.
From the 30th battery the entire front near Sevastopol was clearly visible, and Alexander organized instrumental reconnaissance. This paid off: “Karlov”, in order to maximize the firing simultaneously with other German batteries, produced particularly bright flashes when fired and a characteristic coughing sound. An artillery duel ensued between the “monsters” and Alexander’s battery.
600-mm mortar of the "Karl" type (Karl-Geraet) at a firing position near Sevastopol. Summer 1942
600-mm mortar of the "Karl" type (Karl-Geraet) at a firing position near Sevastopol. Summer 1942
From 5 to 14 June "Carls" released on "thirty" 172 concrete-piercing and 25 high-explosive 600-mm shells, damaging the concrete mass of the battery. On June 14, one of the 600-mm shells hit the gun turret of the 30th battery. Part of the crew was killed, but the damaged tower could fire. According to some reports, one of "Karlov" was also badly damaged by the fire of Alexander's battery, and was taken to Germany. “Dora” was discovered by a reconnaissance group and called aircraft from the Caucasus. The pilots hit the position "Dora" a short but noticeable blow, disabling power trains, special escort trains, service platforms and ammunition wagons. The major general in command of "Dora" considered it best to ask for an urgent relocation outside the Crimea...
Luftwaffe bombs Sevastopol, June 1942
30th battery , fired until the last shell. Understanding perfectly the importance of the 30th battery in the defense system of Sevastopol, the Germans did not stop attacks with tanks and infantry on the battery position. By June 17, the battery had used up all its ammunition, and when a new series of attacks followed, the batteries fought back with practice blanks. A hit from such a blank tore off the turret of a German tank that tried to fire at the battery from the area of the estate of the state farm plant named after Sofia Perovskaya. But the battle was unequal - by that time the Germans had completely surrounded the battery and were already fighting to capture the Northern Side and Mikhailovsky Ravelin. "Thirty" did not give up even when it became clear that the battery was completely surrounded and German machine gunners had already infiltrated the towers. The approaching machine gunners were fired at with powder charges - a stream of powder gases with a temperature of 3000°C literally wiped out the German infantry from the face of the earth.
On June 24, a German infantry regiment and three sapper battalions surrounded the battery and broke into its territory. Enemy sappers used flamethrowers, poured gasoline into cracks, and used demolition charges.
German flamethrower. Sevastopol, summer 1942
German flamethrower. Sevastopol, summer 1942
Alexander decided to blow up the towers, all diesel engines and the power station, and destroy the latest firing devices, which was carried out on June 21. There was no longer any food or water at the battery; the wounded were dying from the smoke pumped in by the Germans. Trying to break the resistance of the battery defenders, German sappers fired several powerful explosions inside the already destroyed towers. A fire started in the gun block.
The battery is on fire. The photo shows tower No. 2 (western).
The battery is on fire. The photo shows tower No. 2 (western).
The last decision of the battery command was to break out of the battery location, but not to the city, but to the partisans in the mountains. The battery was already completely surrounded by the enemy and Alexander understood that the Northern side had already been captured by the Germans.
On June 26, the Germans broke through into the battery and captured the surviving artillerymen. Battery commander Alexander and several sailors escaped from the concrete block through a drain. The group tried to break through to the partisans, but the next day, in near the village of Duvankoy (now Verkhnesadovoe) was discovered and captured by the enemy. Alexander was in civilian clothes, but he was captured because a traitor from the local population identified him and handed him over to the Nazis. Alexander was sent to prison in Simferopol, where he was shot, apparently for refusing to provide information on the 30th battery that interested the Germans. The banner of the 30th battery never fell into the hands of the Germans; most likely it was destroyed by the last defenders of the battery, although there is a legend that the banner was walled up in a wall in the battery’s dungeons. On the other hand, the absence of a banner was the reason that Alexander did not posthumously receive the Hero of the Soviet Union.
At the very end of the war, secret secrets fell into the hands of the Soviet command. archives of the "third Reich" . They contained drawings and technical documentation about “monster” weapons already known to us, about unrealized projects of all kinds "miracle weapons". But what a surprise it was when, among these papers, descriptions and drawings of the 30th battery made by German engineers were discovered. This was a genuine study, which included calculations of the strength of the artillery system, barrel wear, analysis of gunpowder and a number of other issues. At the end, a conclusion was attached that the Russian “fort” was a true masterpiece of engineering art and that it was he who, due to its exceptional qualities, was able to delay the fall Sevastopol for more than six months.
In one of the trophy photographs on the ruins of the battery it is written in paint: “ ...And that was the end of the strongest fortress in the world».
During the war, the battery's fortifications did not suffer serious damage. Only the turret installations, internal mechanical equipment of the battery and fire control devices were disabled. When restoring the 30th battery in the post-war period, it was decided to make maximum use of the surviving objects.
Towers and guns were taken from Baltic battleship "Frunze" (former Poltava) and modernized. Now the battery no longer consisted of 4, but 6 MB-3-12-FM guns with a caliber of 305 millimeters. At the command post, they installed the most advanced fire control system for that time, “Bereg”, with a radar station and heat direction finders. According to the specifications, the battery was capable of withstanding a 10-hour chemical attack, or bombardment with 2000-kilogram landmines, or an airborne nuclear explosion...
Until the mid-1990s, as part of the 778th artillery, and then the 51st missile and 632nd missile and artillery regiments, the division provided coastal defense of the Main Base of the Black Sea Fleet. The last time the battery fired was in 1958. The film “Sea on Fire” was filmed. The guns were turned towards the Mekenzi Mountains. As a result, glass flew out of many houses in nearby villages, and the roofs of some houses were even torn off. In 1997, the personnel of the 30th was transferred to the Caucasian coast, and the fortifications were transferred to the conservation platoon. However, within 72 hours the battery can be put into combat readiness.
Before the Second World War, several were built in the USSR 305 mm turret batteries . Among them Fort Krasnaya Gorka in the Baltic and famous Voroshilovskaya battery I'm in the Far East. Today, only “ thirty" thanks to the efforts of veterans of the Black Sea Fleet. Today it is not only a unique military facility, but also a monument to the sailors who heroically fought and died here defending their Fatherland.
Object coordinates:
Film "30th battery of Sevastopol". Director: Yuri Fedorov. Year of manufacture: 2002.
Older generations, those who still saw the USSR at a conscious age, may remember such a name as “The Famous Thirty”! For those who are younger, and also far from tourism, this is probably a completely incomprehensible phrase!
In fact, the “Famous Thirty” is a tourist route, I’ll even say more! This is "All-Union Tourist Route No. 30". :-)
To avoid any confusion, I will quote Wikipedia for you:
Soviettourist route in the Caucasus lasting 20 days. One of the oldest, most widespread and popular in the Soviet Union. The route was already in operation in the mid-30s.
The route begins at the Gornaya base in Adygea, ending at Dagomys.
As you move along the route, several climatic zones change and you ascend to the glacier of the mountain Fisht and the route ends with access to the Black Sea.
In Soviet times, this was a route for beginners! For many it was the first! Actually, this is probably why it is so popular, 70% of our parents walked along it in their youth, but or at least heard about it! :-) Yes, then this route was designed for 20 days!!! But at the end of the hike, the newcomers were given distinctive badges, this was a kind of standard!
Now, of course, we won’t get any badges, but that’s not the goal!!! :-)
In general, this Friday we are going to conquer the famous thirty!
There are 6 of us in total: My parents (2 people), their best friends (also 2 people) and Anton and I... Total - 6 people!
We prepared for this trip for a long time, studied the route, bought equipment! And now there are 2 days left until release!
Now we have almost everything ready. Today we are preparing all our things and trying to assemble our backpacks in different ways so that we can go comfortably!
After all, we will need to cover about 20-25 km per day.
Again, I can lie to you, because the route is prepared by “adults”, in this case I allow myself to be led, although I will still do a couple of printouts, just in case! :-)
My job is small, carry my 45 liter backpack and photograph local beauties! :-)
By the way, the big question for me was the topic of the camera! I'll definitely take the number! If I don’t take one and a half thousand pictures a day, then the battery will last me for 4 days! :-)
But I would really like to take the film with me. Try shooting at the zenith. I understand that this is extra weight, that it takes up space... And from a practical point of view, it’s absolutely not worth carrying the Zenith with you... But I want to... :-(
What else can I tell you about our plans?!
Here is our approximate route:
On Saturday early in the morning a car comes for us, we are loaded into it and taken to the checkpoint. This is the barrier at the entrance to the Lago-Naki plateau. There the driver says goodbye to us, and we pay fees for each day of the intended journey.
Just in case, we pay for 4 days.
Having received permission to enter, we set off. The goal of our first day is to cover the distance from the checkpoint to the FISHT shelter.
Here's what they write on the forums:
Hiking to the Fisht shelter, which is located in an intermountain basin at the source of the Belaya River at an altitude of 1600 meters. On this day you will conquer four small passes. You will visit the subalpine and alpine zones. Lunch at alpine meadow at the karst lake. In the first half of summer, part of the route passes through snowfields. This is the most eventful day of the route.
Fisht shelter - radial access to the glacier of Mount Fisht (2867). On this day you will visit the nival zone (a zone of bare rocks, eternal ice and snow). Skiing on snowy slopes.
We start the first day of the hike on the Lago-Naki plateau. After some time we will see Oshten, one of the most famous mountain peaks this area. The best time I consider June to be the month for hiking along route 30. Why? Yes, because at the end of spring in the Caucasus mountains it can still be quite cold, in some places there may even be a lot of snow. Namely, by June, mountain flowers begin to bloom, the slopes are covered with greenery. However, in some places there were still unmelted snow remains lying in the mountains. Approaching Mount Oshten, we see a fork, we turn left and further along the mountain path. Almost immediately you will be able to enjoy the stunning views of the mountains and wild plants. I think few people will doubt that along the route along the thirtieth route you can find a large number of medicinal or rare plants.
At the next stage, we are faced with the task of overcoming the Guzeriplsky and Armenian passes. At the first pass we will see a memorial inscription about the participants of the Second World War who died here in battles. After the second pass we go down and reach the Fishtinsky shelter. This is a very convenient place for our overnight stay and day, Fisht-Oshtenovsky is clearly visible from here mountain range. The shelter consists of 2 houses in the mountains where tourists can stay, but you can also set up your own tents. Among the paid services, we can mention the bathhouse (last year the price was 500 rubles per hour). Here you can buy beer, cigarettes and even vodka! However, at about double the price. While relaxing at the shelter, you can “run away” lightly and take a photo with the small Fishtinsky glacier in the background.
Second day of the journey. We pass from FISHTA to BABUK-AULA. Forums warn:
Fisht shelter - Belorechensky pass - Babuk-aul shelter. On this day you will find two easy passes and a long fun descent through beech forests of the Colchis type.
We go up the Belorechensky pass, where memorials are also installed. Following with south side Along the Caucasus Range, you can see that the mountain path gradually goes to the right. A little more and we will be at the Circassian Pass. The road from this pass has firmly won the title of “Merry” among tourists on route 30 because during the descent you will even need to grab tree branches! Next, the road to Babuk-aul awaits us. Here we set up camp for rest and overnight. In that locality There are already paid houses, you can swim.
Third day of our hike!
Shelter "Babuk-aul" - shelter "Solokh-aul". On this day, tourists find themselves in the zone of humid subtropics, the path lies along the Shakhe River gorge with many small but picturesque waterfalls, lunch on the river bank, and possible swimming.
the main task last day A four-day hike along route thirty consists of an eighteen-kilometer hike to Salokh-aul. From here you can go to Dagomys by local bus. We are very close to the city of Sochi!
From Solokh-Aul there are buses to Dagomys several times a day!
In general, our route, as you noticed, lasts only 3 days, and we pay for 4 days. Since the experience is great hiking We don’t have it, we decided to leave 1 day in reserve. Maybe after the first day of the journey we’ll stay at the FISHT shelter, let our bodies rest, and at the same time we’ll climb the mountain and explore the caves! In general, I think this day will not be unnecessary! :-)
It is unlikely that I will have the opportunity to go online every day, so most likely I will write about the results of the hike from the Greater Sochi area, where after 3-4 days of travel we will warm our bodies in the sun and bathe them in salty water! :-)