Second day in Istanbul: Galata Tower, Golden Horn, Grand Bazaar and Valens Aqueduct. Great walk around Istanbul Hagia Sophia Mosque
Recently, just before the start of mass unrest in Turkey, I visited Istanbul. Many people know that this is a large and important city, often mistakenly considering it the capital of Turkey, even fewer know that it is located in both Europe and Asia, and very few people remember that a hundred years ago this city was called Constantinople. And this is no longer just the name of the city, but some kind of lightning strike, since throughout the Middle Ages and even later, Constantinople was the largest and richest city in Europe.
Constantinople, Byzantium, City, New Rome, Constantinople - it's all about him. Even today the word “Constantinople” is alive and well, for example in Orthodox Church. The Patriarch of Constantinople is higher than all other patriarchs, even the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and his residence is still in Islamic Istanbul.
This post is the first in a planned series in which I will talk about this glorious city and its main attractions.
Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey and unique in its geographical location. The Bosphorus Strait divides the city into two parts: European (in the foreground) and Asian. Based on the total number of citizens living in both parts, Istanbul ranks third in Europe in terms of population.
Istanbul, as everyone who has watched “The Diamond Arm” knows, is a city of contrasts. The contrasts here are different. One of them is the contrast of oriental flavor with European design and achievements of scientific and technological progress.
Istanbul is a modern European city with a well-developed transport system. The tram is the most indicative in this regard.
Many people consider Turkey to be some kind of not particularly developed Asian country, in which only tourism is promoted. But compare the Istanbul tram, for example, with the Moscow one. Who looks more advanced here?
Travel by tram costs three liras (50 rubles). The same price is for travel by train and passenger ships, which, given the fact that there is water all around here, replace buses. At least, shuttle buses I did not see.
This is what a tram stop looks like, standing between the tram tracks, that is, one in both directions. Entrance to it is through turnstiles. You buy a token on the street nearby from a machine for three lira, throw it in and go through. The stump is clear, and the photo clearly shows that most of the stops are open and you can safely enter bypassing the turnstiles, but I didn’t notice anything like that here. Imagine what will happen if such a payment system is made here.
In the historical part of the city, the streets are very narrow, and cars and trams travel on the same road. Unlike the Moscow tram tracks, which are lined with paving stones and driving on them kills both the suspension and the mood, here the rails are recessed into the regular road surface and driving a car does not cause any inconvenience.
The main tourist attraction of Istanbul is the Hagia Sophia. It is believed that it was built by Emperor Justinian back in the 6th century. We will definitely visit it, as well as other interesting places that I will mention in this post.
In general, there are many historical attractions in Istanbul, and different cultures are also a contrast. After all, this city was the capital of four empires: Roman, Byzantine, Latin and Ottoman.
Next to the Hagia Sophia is the Basilica Cistern, a huge underground reservoir that was used from ancient times until the 16th century.
Blue Mosque - stands opposite Hagia Sophia and is a masterpiece of 17th century Islamic architecture. All these attractions are located in the very historical center, where there are more tourists than people.
Despite all this, here tourist attractions coexist with some dilapidated huts. This is another contrast of Istanbul. In the photo: abandoned wooden houses near the Blue Mosque.
One more example. Also in the historical center.
Another monument of antiquity is the city hippodrome, on which various memorial columns and obelisks were installed. Now they are the only ones left from the hippodrome, and even then only three.
As paradoxical as it may sound, this very water landscape shows the center of Istanbul. The fact is that this is the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, which divide the city into three parts. Cape Verde on the right is the Palace Cape, or Saraiburnu, from which the old city begins.
Sarayburnu is the tip of a small piece of land, washed on three sides by the waters of the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. It is not surprising that the city of mighty Constantinople flourished here in ancient times. On the cape, on a hill, is the Topkapi Palace, which served as the main residence of the Ottoman sultans for 400 years.
Night view of the pier and Topkapi. I didn’t go to this palace, because the sight of a huge crowd, noisy in different languages, lined up in the heat in front of its entrance, discouraged any desire to even figure out which lines were where.
Next to Topkapi is the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, one of the largest collections of ancient exhibits in the world. In the photo: details of the famous Ishtar Gate, which stood in Babylon.
In some neighborhoods, the streets are filled with shops and goods displayed, like in a clothing market. You are walking along a fairly civil street, you turn and end up in some kind of Cherkizon.
There are many such streets here. And this is not yet Laleli - a shopping area where shuttle traders from Russia and other CIS countries stock up. I didn’t go to Laleli, there’s nothing to see there - just clothes, bales, carts and annoying sales barkers. And I was there ten times when I was young...
The first floors of all the streets in the old town are occupied by shops where you can buy almost everything. What are the prices here? Three liras (50 rubles) for a tram seems a bit expensive. For 5 liras (80 rubles) you can buy a large burger and a bottle of cola - this seems to be normal. You can also use them to buy a locally made shirt or blouse. Or a bottle of imported beer. By the way, there are no problems with drinking water: a half-liter bottle in the very center, like in Moscow on Red Square, costs one lira (17 rubles), but just in the center it costs half a lira.
Galata is a historical district founded by colonists from Genoa on the outskirts of Constantinople. The famous Galata Tower rises above the houses. Now this is the center of Istanbul, Beyoglu district.
From the Galata Tower, standing on the top of the hill, these are the medieval streets.
View from the tower of the Galata Bridge and the historical center of Istanbul. The Galata Bridge is two-story. The upper part is intended for transport and pedestrians, the lower part is occupied by numerous restaurants.
The Valens Aqueduct is one of the symbols of Istanbul. Valens was a Roman emperor who ruled in the 4th century. And, naturally, he built this hydraulic engineering miracle more than a kilometer long.
Ancient walls. Constantinople had the most powerful walls in the world. Those who protected him from attack from land (pictured) walked in three rows. Some towers and walls have been restored, while others remain in ruins.
The famous Yedikule fortress, built by Sultan Mehmed II after the capture of Constantinople.
As I already said, Istanbul is washed by various waters both outside and inside; there are plenty of embankments here. Many come to relax by the sea: beautiful views, fresh air, coolness.
A couple of townspeople return home from fishing. For obvious reasons, there are a lot of fishermen in the city.
In Soviet times they said that Istanbul seaport, a bunch of ships, the Sea of Marmara is all dirty, you can’t swim - decaying capitalism, in general. I don’t remember how it was before, but now everything is clean here. Walking along this embankment, I repeatedly saw dolphins, about twenty meters from the shore.
These are the monsters moored here at numerous piers.
During rush hours, a large number of people accumulate on the piers - people are waiting for transport to sail to work and home from work. There are also many tourist routes, mainly along the Bosphorus. I wanted to go for a ride, but I didn't have enough time.
Istanbul has three major international ports and a bunch of other small ones. Sea communications make up an important share in the city’s economy, the Bosphorus alone is worth it. Its congestion is three times higher than the Suez Canal. Istanbul accounts for about 27% of Turkey's total GDP. In the photo: cargo ships stand in the roadstead in the Sea of Marmara at the entrance to the Bosphorus.
And this is the Grand Bazaar - one of the largest covered markets in the world and probably the oldest of them. There are more than 50 streets and 3,000 shops.
The Grand Bazaar sells mainly clothes, shoes, jewelry, as well as dishes, accessories and other souvenir items. There are a lot of hanging lantern lamps like this.
In summer it is, of course, hot in Istanbul. However, despite the fact that the city is located in the subtropics, the average temperature in July-August is below 25 degrees Celsius. But the sun is harsh, so it’s better to go to Istanbul with sunscreen.
It's nice to walk around old Istanbul. Oriental flavor on the streets, shops, cafes, seagulls, the sea... It’s also beautiful at night, everything is calm. In the following posts I will show and talk in detail about the most interesting places of this great city.
The Turkish metropolis of Istanbul, diverse and noisy, stretching along both banks of the Bosphorus Strait, was founded almost 3 thousand years ago. It was the capital of the Roman Empire called Constantinople in honor of Emperor Constantine (330-395). For more than 1000 years the city served as the capital of the Byzantine Empire, and from the 15th century. became the center Ottoman Empire and later (until 1923) - Turkey. Istanbul, which embodies the features of three world empires, is a huge museum of unique monuments of architecture, religion and culture. It takes a lot of time to get to know them. This recommendation article suggests what to see in Istanbul in 4 days and a route around the city.
From Ataturk Airport to the center of Istanbul you can take a taxi ($25-30), TN1 bus (11 liras, first flight at 4 am) or the red Havalimani metro line, where signs lead from the arrival terminal. To travel, purchase a one-time coupon or an Istanbul card. 6 stops by metro, then transfer to the T1 high-speed tram going to the center. From Sabiha Gokcen Airport to the center of Istanbul, only ground transport runs - taxi (approximately 45 €) and Havabas buses (15 liras, 1.5 hours on the way, departing every half hour).
Where to stay
If you don’t want to overpay for food in restaurants and want to avoid huge crowds of tourists, we recommend staying in one of the hotels or hostels in the Istiklal Street area in Beyoğlu. Here they relax and spend free time in cafes and restaurants, mainly local residents, so prices are lower than, for example, in the center. If you want to stay in close proximity to the main attractions, we recommend choosing the Sultanahmet area. Another of the most popular places to stay are Aksaray and Laleli. If you purchase a tour, the agent will most likely offer you accommodation in one of these areas.
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1 day
Finding yourself in the center of Istanbul, you immediately feel its polyphony, city bustle and noise, crowdedness and diversity. Slender towers of minarets alternate with avant-garde high-rise buildings made of glass and concrete, ancient cathedrals with entertainment centers, ancient narrow streets with modern wide boulevards. A colorful crowd of people “flows” in a stormy stream in different directions.
Hagia Sophia Mosque
Turkey's most famous religious monument, the Hagia Sophia (Hagia Sophia), is in fact now a popular museum of Byzantine architecture, symbolizing the “golden age of Byzantium.” For more than 1 thousand years, the cathedral remained the most grandiose Christian Church(537-1626). Erected on the site of previous basilicas destroyed by fires, the cathedral was intended to symbolize the power of the Byzantine emperors.
The unique church was erected through the painstaking daily work of 10 thousand people.
The walls are decorated with white marble, delivered from the island of the same name, green marble columns are their Ephesus Temple Artemis, porphyry columns - from the Roman Temple of the Sun. The cathedral, which suffered from earthquakes several times, survived. It was thoroughly plundered by the Crusaders (1204), and after the conquest by the Ottomans, after partial reconstruction, it was converted into a mosque - an undoubted decoration of Istanbul and a popular tourist attraction. 4 minarets, a rich library, a madrasah, and a shadirvan make it in demand among local residents.
Blue Mosque
The modern cosmopolitanism of Istanbul is not able to overshadow the unique Islamic flavor, the symbol of which is a priceless architectural masterpiece, captivating with its beauty and grace of form. The Blue Mosque, which attracts the eye, is visible from afar - it is impossible to pass by it indifferently. The grandiose religious site was erected by decree of Sultan Ahmed I as a sign of his prayer for God's help in defeating his enemies. The construction of a masterpiece made of expensive stones and valuable varieties of marble took 7 years. The architectural style of the building merged Byzantine and Ottoman features, creating the unique appearance of the mosque.
Masterly engineering solutions and the original decor of the building gave the right to call the project manager a jeweler. The prayer niche (mahrib) is carved from a monolithic piece of marble. The walls and ceilings inside are decorated with highly artistic tiles in blue and white shades (20 thousand pieces), which gave the mosque its name. The prayer pulpit (minbar), also carved from a single piece of marble, is covered with filigree carvings. Golden paintings, black and red ornaments on the walls, magnificent stained glass windows complement the rich and lush decoration.
Topkapi
The pompous, majestic Topkapi Palace, built at the behest of Sultan Mehmed, was a luxurious refuge for 25 Turkish sultans for 4 centuries. Occupying an area of more than 170 hectares, it is the personification of the unlimited power of the sultans and their untold wealth. Under the first president of Turkey, who freed the people from the power of the sultanate, the palace became a museum. A massive entrance structure, called the “cannon gate” (as top kapa is translated) leads to the palace. Each entry or exit of the sultans was accompanied by a cannon shot, hence the name. In essence, it was a mini-state: mosques, hospitals, Janissary barracks, workers and ceremonial offices.
The decoration of the palace amazes with its luxurious decoration and the grandeur of 4 courtyard expositions, introducing tourists to the life of the sultans. 1st courtyard – various service premises; 2nd – Sultan’s office, treasury; 3rd – Sultan’s chambers, harem premises; 4th – thematic pavilions. Among the exhibits are the richest collections of porcelain and jewelry.
Mosaic Museum
Excavations carried out in the 20s. 20th century near the Blue Mosque, they exposed a platform among the ruins, surrounded by a destroyed colonnade (peristyle) - the remains of a Byzantine palace. The most valuable find was the mosaic covering (area 2 thousand sq. m.) that decorated the palace and the portico of the gallery. Archaeologists were shocked by the extraordinary preservation of the mosaic and artistic expressiveness. A museum was organized at the excavation site (1953), which was first part of the Museum of Archeology, and then the Museum of St. Sofia. The mosaic panel was “covered” with a wooden building, which poorly protected the rarity from humidity and temperature contrast. Then a stone building was built (1987), modernized in 2012 in order to better preserve the mosaics.
The masterly skill, incredible talent and painstaking work of ancient mosaic masters amazes the imagination and delights with maximum realism. Numerous scenes of everyday and mythical themes widely introduce the life and worldview of prehistoric ancestors: feeding a baby, hunting, everyday affairs, mythological animals, etc. - 90 genres in total.
Bayezid Mosque
Located in the center of the historical part of Istanbul, the Bayezid Mosque is the 2nd largest domed mosque in the city, built on the orders of Sultan Bayezid II in the 16th century. instead of the Byzantine Forum of Theodosius. When the latter was demolished, all valuable materials: marble columns, colored stone, marble decorations were used in the construction of the religious complex. Since Bayazid conceived not just a mosque, but an entire complex, this also affected the unusual architecture of the structure. The tall minarets are located 100 m apart from each other, and the appearance of the buildings is a mixture of early Ottoman and Western styles.
The central dome and 2 semi-domes on which it (the main dome) rests are equipped big amount windows (34). Massive porphyry columns support the dome group, and the entire courtyard is paved with marble slabs. Now the buildings that were part of the religious complex have different purposes: a library is located in the former caravanserai and canteens, and a unique Museum of Calligraphy is located in the religious school. The remains of Bayazid are buried in one of the mausoleums. A book bazaar is regularly held on the territory of the mosque, where tourists buy rare books.
Aqueduct of Valens
Looking at grandiose building, located in the Fatih district, Valens aqueduct, one involuntarily recalls Mayakovsky’s catchphrase “created by the slaves of Rome.” A traditional Roman aqueduct of colossal size, built in the 4th century. AD, stunning with its gigantic arches of gray stone. Named after Emperor Valens, under whom it was built, the aqueduct was an important part of the water supply of Constantinople. The length of the structure, made of gray stone taken from the walls of Chalcedon, was 1 km, height - 26 m. Everyone who has the opportunity to contemplate the monumental ancient building, were shocked by the technological capabilities of the ancient builders, who did not have any heavy vehicles. The excellent preservation of the arches and the fact that the aqueduct functioned until the 19th century are surprising. Now it is another symbol of the city.
Suleymaniye Mosque
The largest and second most important mosque in Istanbul, Suleymaniye, is located in the Vefa region, being its main decoration and famous landmark. Within its boundaries lie the remains of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (the initiator of the construction) and his legendary wife Hurren (Roksolana).
According to legend, the architect Sinan, the author and executor of the project, exclaimed at the celebrations in honor of the opening of the facility: “This mosque will stand forever!” The past centuries confirm his prophecy: the brainchild of Sinan, having survived 96 earthquakes, survived practically without destruction. The architect fulfilled Suleiman's requirement to make the mosque seismically resistant.
The basis of the mosque is a powerful foundation (60x57 m) with a reliable fastening system that prevents the building from sliding down the hill and is resistant to shaking. After laying stones, the ditch was filled with water, the foundation stood for 3 years, forming a monolith, and then the walls were erected. 4 slender minarets, located in the corners, proudly look up; the ascetic beauty of the walls and domes delights and fascinates.
Rustem Pasha Mosque
A true pearl among its “sisters,” the Rustem Pasha Mosque is not as accessible to tourists as others, because it is located in a remote corner of the Old City. This is another brainchild of the architect Sinan (author of Suleymaniye), his poetic touch in construction (1561-1562). All visitors leave the mosque in complete admiration. The majestic Ottoman-style domed building is erected on a square podium. Numerous arched entrances, vaults, columns and pillars decorating the podium reliably support the dome, decorated with lattice windows. The mighty gray walls bear the imprint of past centuries and the embodiment of the hard work of thousands of workers.
It is impossible not to freeze with delight when entering the sanctuary - everything here is so beautiful and solemn, rich and artistic! The decoration of the walls with expensive Izmir tiles with floral patterns in white, blue, blue and brown tones is amazing. The floor, finished with slabs of warm orange shades, seems to illuminate the space from below. Garlands of teardrop-shaped glass lights adorn the top like raindrops.
Day 2
If after the first day of traveling around the city it seems to someone that everything interesting is behind them, then this will be a mistaken opinion. It’s worth getting a good night’s sleep, gaining strength and continuing to explore the unique sights of the heir to Constantinople. Walking around the city on the 2nd day will reveal new secrets of Istanbul, introduce you to more modern buildings, and allow you to get into the rhythm of life of the metropolis and its inhabitants.
Dolmabahce
In one of the most colorful districts of the city there is the most Grand Palace, more precisely, palace complex Dolmabahce, striking the imagination with its beauty and size. Built in the mid-19th century. (1843-1856) as the new residence of the sultans, the palace symbolizes the unprecedented luxury and wealth of the Ottomans.
Sultan Abdulmecid I, who planned to “outdo” European monarchs with luxury, ordered the construction of a monumental palace in the Baroque style. A colossal amount of money was spent on its construction - 5 million pounds in gold. The decoration of the buildings required 14 tons of pure gold and 40 tons of silver.
Tourists who actively visit the architectural pearl of Istanbul are amazed at the scale of wealth and luxury in the decoration of the palace buildings. They are surprised by the clocks showing the same time – 9. O5 (the moment of Ataturk’s death). Now the palace has been given the status of a museum and a national heritage site, which in grandeur and beauty can compete with the outstanding palaces of the world.
Taksim
Modern look high-speed travel around Istanbul - an underground funicular, the entrance to which is located next to the Kabatash stop (tram - T 1), will allow you to quickly get to Taksim Square. This is the legendary place of the city, associated with the most fateful events of the country, around which the famous sights of the city are located. This is where the conventional border between the old part of Istanbul and the new is located. "Taksim" literally means "distribution" because for many years the area served as a distribution point for water through the city's water supply system.
In addition, many transport lines and tourist routes around the city originate from here. Celebrations, festive processions and protests have been and are being held here. Tourists are interested in the majestic monument of the Republic (1928), with sculptural images of Ataturk and his associates. A visit to the Church of the Holy Trinity leaves a deep impression as an island of Orthodoxy in the Muslim faith. A pedestrian street starts from the square. Istiklal ending with the ancient Galata Tower ( business card Istanbul).
Istiklal
The former main avenue of Constantinople, Grande Rue de Pera, began to be called Istiklal (“independence”) in 1928, when the square. The Republic Monument was erected in Taksim. Now a vibrant democratic life is in full swing here: crowds of tourists and local residents walk along numerous establishments, street musicians amaze with their skills. In the street infrastructure, the two-facedness of Istanbul is felt at every step - the juxtaposition of fashionable restaurants with unpretentious eateries, religious institutions with noisy nightclubs, oriental style of architecture with Western style.
Although st. It is considered a pedestrian street; a rare tram runs along it (since 1871), which is a tribute to tradition. Given the huge flow of tourists, hundreds of hotels of various categories are open on Istiklal, from luxury hotels to the cheapest hostels. There is a large selection of apartments, hotels with swimming pools and spas.
Church of St. Anthony
This is not only the largest Catholic church in Istanbul, but also a real architectural masterpiece, captivating with its majesty and splendor. Built in 1911 Catholic Church- a tribute to local authorities to the Catholic faith, the preachers of which were Franciscan monks. The long-suffering history of Franciscan monks, who first appeared in the city in 1221, is connected with the temple. The consequence of this was the construction of the Church of St. in 1230 in the vicinity of the Galata district. Francis (or St. Sophia). The temple was restored 2 times after severe fires, and although it survived after the 3rd fire, it was turned into a mosque at the request of Sultan Mustafa II.
We must pay tribute to the monks who stubbornly wanted to have their own temple, and who rebuilt the church, named after St. Anthony (1724). But she, too, was destined for a sad fate - the construction of tram tracks destroyed the creation of the monks. The Church of St. Anthony, built in the neoclassical style, acquired new life on February 15, 1912, when the first service took place. Today, many parishioners from different countries gather here every day.
Galata Tower
The ancient old-timer of Istanbul - the Galata Tower, located on a high hill (140 m above sea level), is located in the Beyoglu region and is visible from all parts of the city. The tower, built in the 6th century, presumably under the Byzantine emperor Justinian as a wooden watchtower, in the 14th century. was rebuilt from stone. The dimensions of the stone giant, as if floating above the waters of the Bosphorus, are impressive: height 65 m, diameter 16.5 m, wall thickness 3.7 m. Once upon a time, the tower was surrounded by disappeared fortress moats, which gave their names to the old neighboring streets nearby .
After a strong earthquake (1503), which caused significant damage to Galata, it was restored and a superstructure was made. In the 17th century, when the inventor and first aeronaut of Turkey, Hezafren Kulesi, flew across the Bosphorus on the wings he designed, starting from the top floor of the tower, it began to be called Hezafren’s Tower. Several centuries in lower floors The structure housed a prison, and the upper platform was an observation post.
Galata Bridge
The unique crossing connecting the shores of the Golden Horn Bay - the Galata Bridge with an adjustable mechanism cannot but amaze with its beauty and scale. The 2-story, handsome bridge, 142 meters wide, stretches 484 meters over the turquoise waters - the brainchild of the Turkish company STFA. The first wooden bridge appeared in this place in 1845 at the behest of Valide, the wife of Sultan Mahmud II, after whom it was named. Having served for 17 years, the structure fell into disrepair, and for the visit of Napoleon III to Istanbul (1863), the bridge was almost completely rebuilt.
A significant reconstruction of the Galata Bridge was carried out in 1875, after which passage across it became paid. The current crossing is the fifth grandiose structure (1992-94). Today, the Galata Bridge is not only a popular crossing, but also a popular tourist attraction, where thousands of people come. The 2nd floor is a busy transport line, along which not only cars, but also trams travel. The 1st floor is a pedestrian and leisure area where many different establishments are located.
Egyptian market
A special exotic touch in the colorful panorama of Istanbul is the Egyptian market or bazaar, where they sell oriental spices. The market received this name because spices were delivered from India through Egypt, and the Egyptians traded them. According to history, there was also a market at this place back in the Byzantine era. The Old Egyptian Bazaar began to be built of wood in 1660 as an object of sponsorship for the construction of the New Mosque, which has survived to this day.
Later, the market building, rebuilt from stone and brick, burned twice, and in 1940, during a major reconstruction, it acquired modern look. The monumental building, built in the shape of the letter L, has 6 arched entrances and a lead dome crowns the roof. Even from a distance you can smell the intoxicating aroma of all kinds of seasonings, so it’s hard to go wrong when looking for a bazaar. In addition to spices and herbs, dried fruits and dairy products are sold here.
Day 3
During the first 2 days of your stay in Istanbul, you learn so many interesting things that it seems that there is nothing more surprising here. But no, ancient city, located on 2 continents, is capable of giving many new impressions even on the 3rd day of traveling through it. The objects to be seen on day 3 will allow you to delve deeper into the history of the city’s glorious past and experience its Byzantine authenticity. You will get to know legendary personalities who contributed to the fate of the city.
Kariye Museum
In a remote area of Istanbul there is an outwardly modest, but internally very meaningful building, the Kariye Museum. From a historical and cultural point of view, this is a real treasure trove of priceless rarities from the Byzantine period. The building was built in the 4th-5th century. as the Church of Christ the Savior, which later served as the monastery of Chora. The rebuilt building changed its purpose twice in different eras: from a church it was transformed into a monastery and vice versa, then it served as a mosque.
The history of Byzantine Constantinople and Turkish Istanbul is embodied within the walls of the building. Under the layer of plaster applied under the Turks, the artistic paintings of the Byzantines were preserved. Nearby, the Temple Museum, officially opened in 1958, consists of 3 halls, each of which is stunning with amazing mosaics and frescoes. These are true masterpieces of Byzantine art of the 14th century, reflecting biblical scenes. The overall decoration of the museum-church can compete in beauty with any other Byzantine temple in Europe.
Mihrinah Sultan Mosque
Next to the Kariye Museum is the Mihrinah Sultan Mosque, a beautiful architectural and religious monument with a romantic history. The mosque was named after the beloved daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent and Roksolana and was erected in her honor by the architect Sinan, who was in love with Mikhriny. Many people believe that the appearance of the mosque resembles the figure of a girl in a long robe. This similarity is created by 2-tier porticoes at the base of the building and under the domes.
The central dome crowning the mosque smoothly merges with the lower domes. A special role here is played by daylight, penetrating into the halls and creating an unprecedented impression, reflected on the stained glass windows and openwork walls. There is a rumor around the mosque about its heavenly connection on Mihrinah's birthday, March 21st. It is believed that if you stand between 2 mosques on this day (the 2nd is located in the Edirnekapi district), you will see the Moon and the Sun between the minarets at the same time. The mosque is very revered by local residents.
Walls of Constantinople
The remains of powerful fortress walls and towers are a unique architectural monument, a clear reminder of Byzantine Constantinople and its former greatness. They are otherwise called the Theodosian Walls, because they were built on the initiative of Emperor Theodosius Ii (408-413), when the city grew beyond its borders.
Having stood for the 3rd century, the walls were partially destroyed by a strong earthquake in 747, but were rebuilt and strengthened with an additional ditch.
After the conquest of the city by Mehmed (1453), the damage to the walls of Constantinople was repaired. But in the 19-20 centuries. The fortification structure began to be dismantled as unnecessary. Having assessed the historical and cultural significance monument, the public took the walls under the protection of UNESCO, in the 80s of the 20th century. they were restored. Although earthquakes recent years significantly damaged the new masonry, we have the opportunity to see symbols of the power of Byzantium.
Hill and coffee shop Pierre Loti
This iconic place is located in the Eyup district, on a large hill of a former Ottoman cemetery. The top of the hill is a kind of observation deck from which stunningly beautiful views of the bay and the city open. You can climb it on foot or by cable car. The enterprising owner, who opened a cafe in this picturesque place, surrounded by slender cypress trees, named the coffee establishment after the popular in the 19th century. writer Pierre Loti. This is the pseudonym of the French naval officer Louis M. J. Viau, who described the countries he visited in his works.
Loti's novels, dedicated to the life of the ancient, mysterious East, its traditions deeply worried readers, and the cafe named after him attracted many visitors. Now it is also not empty - hundreds of tourists along the way explore the surrounding area with marble tombstones, admire the views of the Golden Horn, then drink apple tea and coffee in Pierre Loti's cafe.
4 day
The 4th day of exploring the city, which connected East and West, embodied rich history 2 empires. A visit to the Archaeological Museum, the Ottoman fortress, the original basilica and the grand bazaar will impress.
Rumeli Fortress Hisary
The historical fortress of Rumeli Hisary, striking in its scale, was erected in 1452 by order of Padishah Mehmed (the Conqueror) as a strategic structure for the siege of Constantinople. 2 thousand builders and 1 thousand designers erected powerful walls and towers in 4.5 months to “cut off” the city from the sea. The basis of Rumeli was the foundation of the destroyed ancient Byzantine fortress Foneus, on which walls 7 m thick, 3 huge main towers with gates and 13 small ones connecting the 2nd row of walls were erected. Soldiers' barracks and a mosque were built in the courtyard (only the minaret remained from it). In the 17th century The fortress lost its strategic importance and began to be used as a prison, which began to be called the “castle of oblivion.” In the 50s of the last century, the fortress was restored, an Artillery Museum and a Summer Theater were organized in it and opened to the public.
Archaeological Museum
At the time of its creation, the Istanbul Museum of Archeology was called the “museum of sarcophagi” (they became its first exhibits). The first neoclassical building in the city became a museum in 1896. With the appearance of many other artifacts, 2 more buildings were built, and today there are 3 themed museums. Not all museums in the world can boast of such a number of unique, authentic exhibits reflecting different eras of our era. e. in the development of humanity.
Invaluable finds from excavations carried out in Istanbul, Africa, Afghanistan, the Balkans, found their place in the Archaeological Museum, in the pavilion Ancient East and the Tiled Pavilion. Sarcophagi of A. Macedonian or royal are the most significant artifacts brought from Ancient Syria. The mummies of Egyptian pharaohs, fragments of sculptures from the ancient Greek temples of Zeus and Athena, collections of cuneiform texts, Ottoman coins and much more are kept here.
Basilica Cistern
If someone thinks that there is nothing left to be surprised in Istanbul, then he will be mistaken if he has not yet visited an absolutely unique structure - the Basilica Cistern. This former reservoir (that’s how “cistern” is translated) is a technological and architectural miracle created under Emperor Justinian. When there was no longer a need for a reservoir, Yerebatan Sarai, that is, an underground palace, which became an interesting museum, was opened in this unique building. There are no limits to tourists' admiration for the skill of Byzantine builders when they descend here.
The gigantic hall is lined with 336 8-9 meter tall marble columns supporting the ceiling. They were mainly brought from ancient temples, which is noticeable in their processing. The most notable of them are 2 columns, the bases of which are designed in the form of the heads of the Gorgon Medusa. The original lighting of the room creates a truly magical atmosphere.
Grand Bazaar and Cemberlitas
One of the most visited districts by tourists, Cemberlitash is famous for the Column of Constantine, hammams, the square of the same name and the Grand Bazaar. The first column with a statue of the emperor was installed in 330, the last - 2 centuries later. Turkish hammams, now famous all over the world, have a special flavor here.
An ancient covered market arose on this site under Mehmed the Conqueror in 1453. Repeatedly rebuilt and expanded, the Grand Bazaar turned into the main center of trade and business in Istanbul and even the slave trade (until the 19th century).
At the beginning of the 17th century, the market area had 67 streets, 5 mosques, 7 fountains, 18 gates. This huge market complex cannot be called anything other than an oriental fairy tale. Having come here for an hour, you can stay here for half a day - the market space is so colorful, bright, beautiful and diverse. It seems that its pavilions have everything you could want - the range of goods is off the charts. You shouldn’t demonstrate your wealth here; you should definitely bargain when purchasing.
Istanbul, located on both banks of the Bosphorus, thus turns out to be a European and Asian city at the same time, past which the waters of the Black Sea flow into the Mediterranean through the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles Strait. The uniqueness of Istanbul's geographical location can be described as follows: it is the Asian city closest to Europe and the European city closest to Asia.
(Total 26 photos)
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1. I visited this city for the first time in February 2009. Despite the rather nasty weather (about +5 and almost constant drizzling rain), I fell in love with the city almost immediately and, probably, forever. You can get to Istanbul by Aeroflot or Turkish Airlines, the cost is relatively the same, it all depends on the dates, I flew with the Turks twice. When choosing a ticket, if possible, avoid arriving or (especially) departing from Sabiha Gokcen Airport. The road from the historical center to SAW airport took us exactly two hours, and there were terrible traffic jams in the unbearable heat.
2. Both times I stayed at the very nice family hotel Emine Sultan Hotel (hotels in Turkey are known for their hospitality). There are only 10 rooms, a little small but very neat, a great breakfast area and a great rooftop area to sit out. I can’t say that it’s really cheap there (the official price for a double is 105 euros), but by contacting the hostess first, you can always come to an agreement. I received last year's price of 95 euros + 10% discount for paying in cash. At the same time, we were given a room 4 hours after checkout so that we could get ourselves in order before departure.
3. The best thing about this hotel is the location. From the windows you can see the Blue Mosque, and on the other side the sea. What can you fall in love with in Istanbul? Yes to everything. To beautiful mosques, palaces, sun, sea, seagulls, narrow streets and houses. But, probably, first of all you need to see the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. They stand opposite each other and it’s even difficult to determine which one you like more. In terms of size, of course, Hagia Sophia is larger and attracts the fact that before it was still an Orthodox church (now it is a museum), but at the same time, the Blue Mosque, despite its size, is very intimate, cozy and feels like it is working. And it got its name from the blue tiles used for decoration inside.
5. Hagia Sophia was the main thing for 1000 years Orthodox church, and then 500 years by the mosque. I was impressed by the fact that the Turks did not remove the figure of the Archangels, believing that they would come in handy and only covered their faces with masks. In general, the contrast is very noticeable in the temple; now that the plaster has been removed from the frescoes, it is surprising to see huge leather shields next to the icon of the Mother of God.
7. In general, despite the fact that Turkey is considered a secular state, you should not feel like you are in Europe and, for example, hug on the street, especially next to some mosque. You will almost certainly receive a remark, but quite politely. Very close to the main square of Sultanahmet there is another interesting place- A cistern built in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian to store water. It is also notable for the fact that the head of the Gorgon Medusa was used to strengthen the building.
8. After the Cistern, it’s worth going to Topkapi Palace, because... it is located quite close. The Sultan lived there until some time ago, but now it’s just a museum. You can walk through the halls, look at the decoration of the halls, the Sultan's breakfast pavilion with a beautiful view, the Harem, etc. The protruding “bottle necks” are the kitchen. I can’t say that the palace is very impressive, but it’s worth a look. If you first ended up in Dolmabahce, then you don’t have to come here.
9. All the above attractions will show you the historical value of Istanbul. But that’s not the only reason it’s worth coming here. The Galata Bridge stands across the Golden Horn Bay. This is a place where you can see fishermen almost at any time of the day; there are really a lot of them. And right there, you can try incredibly delicious fried fish with bread and vegetables. And later sit in one of the many cafes below, smoke a hookah and admire the sunset.
11. If you walk further along the bridge, you can go up to the Galata Tower, from where you can admire the beautiful views of the city in the sun. This is practically the only high observation deck in the city, not counting the Topkapi Palace (at least that I know of).
12. From the tower it’s very close to the street. Istiklal (Independence), this street is reminiscent of Moscow's Arbat. There are a lot of shops, cafes, restaurants, clubs, street vendors and, of course, a tram. We were lucky - a carriage with a wonderful vocalist was attached to the tram, who sang throughout the route and entertained the entire street. The Russian Embassy is also located there, as well as the Church of St. Antoine - the largest Catholic church in Istanbul. From there you can take the local mini-metro called Tunnel (on Taksim Square), where the ride lasts only a few minutes, but at a high angle.
13. In continuation of the first part. It would be a big miss to visit Istanbul and not visit the local markets. There are two main ones - the bazaar and the spice market. Both are rather touristy, but it’s worth a visit - a huge amount of spices, jewelry, sweets, beautiful plates, carpets and everything else. And, of course, you need to bargain in the market.
14. Very close to the market is Istanbul University, founded back in 1453 and one of the first 10 universities founded in Europe. It was once a higher Muslim school, but after the proclamation of the Turkish Republic it became a secular educational institution. Its buildings are practically invisible, and I have not studied it, but the main entrance to Beyazit Square (in the Roman period it was known as the Square of the Bulls) is pleasantly impressive, and there are always a lot of pigeons in the square nearby.
15. From there, it’s also not far on foot to the Valens Aqueduct, which was once part of the water supply system of Constantinople and was built in the 4th century. It is almost a kilometer long, and at the top there are lead pipes through which water flowed until the mid-19th century. The further you move from the aqueduct, the larger it seems. In general, it is surprising to see such a structure right in the middle of the city.
16. Dolmabahce Palace was probably one of the main impressions for me on my second trip to Istanbul. This is a huge building on the shores of the Bosphorus on the European side, divided into two parts - the main part and the harem. It was built by Sultan Abdulmecid I, who was tired of the medieval Topkapi complex and wanted to build something similar and competitive with European palaces.
17. Currently, the palace is the active residence of the Prime Minister, so, unfortunately, photography is prohibited inside and excursions are only possible with a guide (about every half hour in Turkish or English). There is a beautiful crystal staircase (contrary to my expectations, the steps were still stone) and an impressively sized main hall with a huge chandelier. Ataturk died there, whose bed is required to be shown (in Turkey they generally have reverence for this man and are constantly reminded of him).
18. From the Galata Bridge you can take a ferry to the Asian part of Üsküdar, from where you can walk very close to the Maiden Tower (also known as the Leander Tower). I have heard at least three versions of the story about the tower, all of which are very similar to the usual stories of such buildings. There is a small boat going from the shore to the tower back and forth, you can climb observation deck, look at the views and drink beer and nuts at a local cafe.
19. Istanbul for me is a city of cats. There are a great many of them there. Dogs are much less common. They can lie under an umbrella in winter period, cross the road or sit on a doorknob in a completely incomprehensible way.
21. And Istanbul is a secular city with a huge number of mosques. They are at every step - small, large, very large. With a different number of minarets, but all very beautiful. The night shot is of the New Mosque, located in the old part of the city. Nearby is the Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar), which, as it turned out, served as financing for its construction.
22. I only went inside the Golubaya, so as not to disturb the believers, although I was given a booklet that told about Islam, their sacred symbol, Kayab, and which explained that entry to all mosques is free.
23. From the Galata Bridge you can take a cruise along the Bosphorus, which lasts about two hours. It's inexpensive (15 Turkish lira, I think), and it's worth the ride, just take a seat on the right side of the ferry. He makes 2 or 3 stops and sails along the coast. You can look at cozy villas on the shore (almost a few have access to the sea), beautiful landscapes and huge bridges across the strait. Closer to the turn deep into the Bosphorus you can see the Rumelihisar fortress, built 500 years ago bottleneck strait and intended to close Constantinople's access to the Black Sea.
24. Cemeteries are very common in the city, there are many of them, really many. This could be either a very small fenced area or something large on a slope, like near the Rumelihisar fortress (to the left of the fortress in the photo). Moreover, next to the cemetery (it even seems that right on the territory) there may be some kind of hookah bar (nargile in Turkish), where there are always a lot of people. In general, a good hookah in my usual understanding of the word can be found quite rarely in Turkey. But if you do, it’s at least two hours of pleasure.
25. Istanbul can hardly be called a completely contrasting city, like Hong Kong, for example. Here the contrast is rather in the proximity of two states in one - secular and Muslim. There are not a huge number of skyscrapers here, but they also appear, towering over small mosques.
26. The capital of Turkey is a city that makes you fall in love immediately, on the very first day of arrival, you don’t need to discover it gradually, it’s as if you immediately fall into this whole atmosphere. I’ve been here twice already (by the way, this is the only foreign city where I’ve been twice, well, not counting the CIS and Bali) and I’ll probably come back again, not to explore, but just to relax, swim in the Princes’ Islands and eat this wonderful fish near the Galata Bridge.
Istanbul: features of tourism and recreation. Useful for the traveler information about Istanbul.
- Tours for May to Turkey
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Gulshat Zakirova
No way to discover new places evokes as much emotion as walking with a local who can show you the most hidden corners of their city. My recent trip to Istanbul for the wedding of a close friend can be compared to re-reading a favorite book - the plot and characters have long been familiar, but as soon as I took a fresh look, the story sounded completely different.
On the eve of the wedding, the bride’s relatives and I were invited to dinner with the family of Turker, the groom. My friend's future relatives greeted us warmly and seated us at a table with refreshments. The dishes were replaced one after another in an accelerated manner, and while I was leaning on bereki, traditional pastries made of puff pastry stuffed with cheese and meat, delicious sweet peppers baked in the oven and covered in yogurt, which I had left for a snack, had already been taken away. About forty minutes later we had eaten our fill, and we were invited to sit on the sofa and drink tea with home-made baklava. Only then did they start asking us if we had been to Turkey before what we were doing, what we had seen in Istanbul.
As it turned out later, in Turkey it is not customary to talk at the table: eat before it gets cold. And conversations are conducted over tea, of which, according to tradition, several glasses are drunk per evening. How different this is from our feasts with leisurely conversations over a glass - not even tea at all.
The next day we were very worried while my friend and her chosen one were getting married according to Muslim laws, that is, they were undergoing the “nikah” ritual. The marriage is celebrated by a mullah; only two witnesses are allowed to attend the ceremony - always men. A small festive dinner, at which women sat separately from men, ended the official part of the day, and within a couple of hours after acquiring a new status, my friend and her husband were in a hurry to show us the city. It is worth noting here that the real wedding, which attracted more than 350 guests, took place a couple of months later. The official registration of marriage in the registry office was a few days before the “nikah” and the significance for the newlyweds was much less than a religious ceremony.
We didn’t have much time to explore the luxurious imperial Istanbul, so we immediately went to the city center to Sultanahmet Square. Climbing a steep hill along one of Istanbul's cobblestone streets, we were puzzled when Turker invited us to enter through a wooden door, sometimes full of holes, indicated by a "Painting exhibition" sign. Imagine our surprise when behind this unprepossessing entrance there was a workshop and exhibition of works by the famous Turkish artist Ilhami Atalay! After getting acquainted with the master himself, who came out to us in a robe stained with paint, warming up by the potbelly stove, looking at the colorful oriental paintings, full of rich colors, we moved on.
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Even on this day, we took a funicular up to the observation deck over the Golden Horn Bay, had dinner at a fish restaurant with very reasonable prices (while less knowledgeable tourists ate the same fish at exorbitant prices in a neighboring establishment), rode along the Bosphorus and admired magnificent sunset over the Sea of Marmara. And throughout this long day we had the feeling that our guide was meeting his acquaintances everywhere. Not understanding the conversations in Turkish, we were sure that Turker’s good friends were charging for parking, pointing out the best way to the sights, and weighing out Turkish delight at the market. Our amazement knew no bounds when it turned out that these were all strangers to him. This is the mentality here: a compatriot is almost like a brother, and this applies equally to the inhabitants of a small village and to the inhabitants of an almost European metropolis - Istanbul.
For some reason, many people have the idea of spending a two-week vacation entirely in Istanbul seemed strange. Yes, of course, this is a huge and not at all a resort reserve, but “all-inclusive” is not our option, so we decided to devote a little less than two weeks to exploring the city and its surroundings.
First meeting
The first day of our trip is especially notable for the quest to find an apartment and the meeting of the unwary wife with the local holy fool beggar.
Having put our bodies to sleep at 3 o'clock in the morning and blowing them up to run at 5 o'clock in the morning, solely on the permanent injection of adrenaline into the blood, we ran first to the subway under the nasty autumn Moscow rain, then along the transition to Novokuznetskaya, overtaking people like us, the majority our own, early birds with suitcases and backpacks, and then onto the airexpress, which we suddenly caught, despite the fact that we left 10 minutes later than planned.
I won’t write about how we boarded the plane without incident, only slightly worried about Leva Pelman, whom an auntie in megaphones had been looking for for more than half an hour with hopelessness in her voice, who was flying (or not flying) to Tel Aviv. And I won’t write about how afraid the flight attendant, who was fastening her belts to the wall right in front of my nose, and the aunt who was praying to our right, were afraid of turbulence.
Istanbul greeted us with a spacious airport, bright sunshine and a customs officer who embarrassedly asked Lizaveta how to pronounce her last name.
Having overcome all the formalities, we hastened to become mobile and connected to the Internet in a foreign land. Those. We headed to the Turkcell counter to get a local SIM card. We didn’t have any map other than a fairly small map of the city from the guidebook, and all our hope was in Google Maps, so we were somewhat discouraged that the Internet didn’t work right away. The contract itself cost 65 liras, 20 liras were added on top to get a limit of 500 megabytes of traffic, about which an SMS was even received. But all attempts to take advantage of the benefits of 3G were in vain. Only the next day, in the operator’s salon, the Turks themselves set up some kind of APN connection on my phone, and I finally became online not only in the apartments. By the way, about the apartments, it was not easy to find them. Getting to the area itself was not particularly difficult, but then wandering along the alleys began.
After half an hour of trying to find ourselves, we began to pester the Turks, who immediately and very funnyly began to “solve our issue.” The piece of paper from Bookingcom contained a phone number, which they called and started a long conversation almost for life; after the second such call, a boy, an employee of the apartment, found us. With hotels, everything is not so simple here, something quite decent costs quite Moscow money, but we were somehow not ready to check into a hostel. Therefore, an average and very good option was found - an apartment ten minutes walk from Sultanahmet.
If I publish this view from the window in a review about the apartments, then, of course, few people will come to them)) But everything is not bad at all! The interior is freshly renovated, air conditioning, Wi-Fi and soft mattresses.
But the view from the window is something. On the street, most of the houses are occupied by shoe workshops. Real, ah non-tourist, life in Istanbul, for which we were traveling, turned out to be very close.
However, everything is fine with garbage here; it’s almost impossible not to see a garbage truck on the street. And the central streets are almost clean.
The first impression of the city is that only traders live here; it seems that most of the population only trades, while the locals take part in the process not only from the selling side, but also actively buy. They trade in shops, shops, underground passages, huge markets (we also thoroughly studied the Grand Bazaar), shopping centers- everywhere. Even just like that, dumping bags or jeans right on the ground.
Grand Bazaar
After wandering around the old city a little, we finally found the Column of Constantine, which he erected in honor of the transfer of the capital of the Roman Empire to Constantinople. It is impossible not to note how easy it was for the rulers of ancient times in terms of commemorating something. There was no need to rack your brains over yet another monument - I placed a taller and thicker phallic symbol on the square with good review, and everyone is happy! About a few more similar monuments a little later.
So, from this column, going down a picturesque street, we got to the main gate of the Grand Bazaar. At all, Istanbul itself is one big bazaar, but here, as it were, is the very heart.
I was especially impressed by the public toilets, which apparently have been here ever since. Of course, a resident of modern Moscow, the most important market of the most important, for many centuries, trading city in Europe and Asia, does not make such an impression as the guidebooks describe, but, nevertheless, it excites the imagination, visual nerves and body receptors with its brightness , noise and din, aromas of coffee, tea and food, and, of course, endless rows of all kinds of goods. This is a feature of the human body that is more typical for women, when the eyes and ears cannot choose one direction for looking and listening - the legs become a little weak, the lower jaw sag, and the facial expression becomes a little stupid. This is roughly what 99% of Grand Bazaar visitors look like.
The owners of numerous shops, many of whose families have been working here continuously since the 15th century, shamelessly take advantage of this, adding to the general din their own howling defiances of their lamps, carpets, scarves, jewelry or slippers. In general, it doesn’t matter what is on this or that counter - it always turns out to be the best, the newest (or the oldest depending on the client’s request), the cheapest and generally the most vital.
Only Cherkizon was able to trade like in Satmbul, but here the service is less intrusive.
We walked along, across, diagonally and made several circles along the shopping streets, falling into a semi-conscious state, buying several souvenirs and completely losing the ability to navigate the area, when suddenly we found ourselves in Boyayzit Square, falling out of this shiny, noisy anthill into sudden silence.
Egyptian bazaar
In addition to the Grand Bazaar, tourists are also very fond of the spice market or, as it is called, the Egyptian Bazaar. Of course, they sell far more than just spices here, and if you wander around, you can find anything you want. Sweets, Turkish glass lamps, teapots, jewelry, a hundred varieties of nuts, tobacco by weight, and so on.
Lamb and chicken doners are not new anywhere for a long time, but in the Stambul You can eat shawarma in one form or another on any corner. Intrusive barkers compete with each other in guessing the nationality of tourists passing by - they greet Japanese, Russians, Italians, and even more so English-speaking citizens in their native language.
It would be strange if for a city located on two seas (Black and Marmara) the basis of the cuisine was not fish. If you wish, you can easily dine on freshly caught fish for a few hundred liras with a view of the Bosphorus. Or you can buy “balyk ekmek” for 6 liras - a fried piece of the simplest nameless fish, put into half a loaf along with onions and some other herbs - an extremely simple and very tasty dish. For tourists and walking townspeople, “balyk ekmek” is sold from special decorative boats, beautifully rocking at the pier.
Fish market
In the Stambul Naturally, there are several fish markets - one of them is on the shores of the Sea of Marmara in the European part. Small, but colorful and fragrant. In general, this Marmara Sea and Bosphorus are full of fish. There are even swordfish. By the way, it’s quite tasty;) As in any other market, polyglot sellers invite you to buy at least something. I love fish very much, and if I lived in Istanbul, would definitely become a regular at such a market.
In general, the main rule in relation to a product is that there should be a lot of product. If you sell glass lamps, then there should be at least a thousand of them, pocket sewing machines - be kind enough to put at least fifty on the counter, corn - put at least a dozen incredible pyramids of corn cobs. Fish is no exception.
There are also a number of restaurants overlooking the boats on which the Turks go to the Sea of Marmara for this abundance of fish.
Saint Sophia
No matter how much we shy away from visiting the most tourist-oriented objects, and no matter how topographical cretinism helps us in this, it is simply impossible not to visit Hagia Sophia while in Constantinople.
In general, to our shame, when we first visited Sultanahmed, we arrogantly decided that Hagia Sophia was the one with 6 minarets. Why is a mystery. Perhaps out of greed. But about the one with 6 minarets - below.
So, we firmly decided in the morning that it’s enough to put it off, it’s time to go join the UNESCO World Foundation and we headed to Sofia. Honestly, as with every attempt to visit this or that attraction here, we did several victory laps until we found the entrance, stood in line and, succumbing to the tourist miasma, took an audio guide.
Well, what can I say? Of course, it is impressive in size, and even more, if you have imagination, in decoration and decoration. Although, after numerous robberies, almost nothing was left of the decoration. The columns are difficult to carry away, and the mosaic is difficult to peel off from the ceiling, so they were preserved for our joy.
The mosaic, at one time, illuminated by a huge number of lamps on each tier, should have simply burned with golden fire. Imagine thousands of small golden mirrors - it's like being in an inverted mirror ball. All sorts of savages, i.e. for those who were not Byzantines, at the time of the construction of Sophia, this must have struck to the very depths of their souls once and for all. Here it becomes obvious that Vladimir could not help but choose nothing other than Orthodoxy for Rus'. Every normal Varangian who visited it certainly began to click in his head with an arithmometer, which had not yet been invented at that time, counting how much brilliant property there was that could be evacuated to his homeland and used for brooches. And each of the rulers of that time and many centuries later, and even now, I have no doubt, would like to have a plausible pretext for wars of conquest, robberies, and also extortions of their own subjects. The Orthodox tradition regarding precious metals and shiny minerals is simply ideal.
The Varangians, by the way, served Justinian in large numbers as a hired squad, and, as part of their service, they had to attend religious events in Sofia, and since they were not completely savages, they quickly got tired of the entertaining nose-picking, and they entertained themselves as best they could, leaving memorable marks and inscriptions wherever they could reach unnoticed.
Speaking of construction. IMHO, a bad place was initially chosen for the construction of this pearl of architecture, because the churches built on it before Hagia Sophia constantly burned down. Either a fire or an uprising is a bad trend. But the Byzantine emperors were stubborn and self-confident people, so Justinian ordered such a colossus to be built in the same place. And he was right - several times the temple was partially destroyed, including the destruction of the dome, as a result of earthquakes, was plundered by Christian brothers, and then was completely turned into a mosque, and then into a museum.
We, as always, were “lucky” in that the building is currently under restoration and we were not able to fully explore its space, but we were able to see the main treasures - the preserved mosaics. We were especially impressed by the couple of Empress Zoe and her third husband, Constantine. Using her example, we can observe the continuity between ancient and Byzantine art - with each change of spouse, the mosaic was not completely redone and a new one was not created - they simply laid out a new portrait and changed the name of the emperor.
In a separate long monologue, the audio guide told us about the outstanding and very, very examples of Islamic art - medallions with the names of Allah, the prophet and the caliphs. We looked at them and scrolled through the file again. And we looked again. Let's leave this without comment.
In general, the visit to Hagia Sophia left a mixed impression. It's a shame about the looted treasures.
Sofia is on the left and Sultanahmet is on the right.
Sultanahmet
Sultanahmet is both the name of the area and the name of the mosque. The mosque is operational, but since there are a lot of Muslim tourists who want to look at the interiors, it is equipped for visiting by non-believers. There is a separate entrance where tourists are given bags for shoes, scarves and skirts - so that they do not embarrass the worshipers with their appearance. The mosque is not open all the time, but only when nothing of sacred importance is happening. Nothing supernatural was found inside the mosque.
Galata Tower
Another one hundred percent tourist place is the Galatian Tower, but it is impossible to pass by. Because there's nowhere else to come from look at Istanbul from above. The tower can be seen from everywhere. Over the centuries, the tower has been a prison, an observatory, and a fire tower, but it was originally built to observe the Bosphorus Strait. However, in this photo there is the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus on the left and a little further.
Walking around Istanbul (Türkiye)
The first tower was built here at the end of the fifth century, but, of course, what they show tourists now is a remake - the fourteenth century. The tower acquired its modern appearance even later, but in the last century an elevator was built inside the tower. They let you in for 13 liras per nose, and upstairs on the narrow circular terrace there is a whole crowd of onlookers and tourists. From above Istanbul just as beautiful as when walking along the narrow, dirty streets. By the way, we found out that the Asian coast, although a little less colorful, is incomparably cleaner.
Obelisks
The current Sultanahmet Square used to be a hippodrome. Or rather, it itself used to be a hippodrome, if we didn’t mix something up. Like every decent hippodrome, at Constantinople there were and still are obelisks. I have already written that with monuments and ideas for creating them, everything was much simpler among the ancients than it is now. Often there was no need to create anything new, because Byzantium had the whole of Egypt, practically at hand, chock-full of all sorts of columns, obelisks and sphinxes. But, unlike the builders of the city on the Neva, the rulers of Constantinople gave greater preference to classical phallic forms and imported columns and those same obelisks. At the same time, oddly enough, the only monument of obelisk construction brought directly from there is the Obelisk of Theodosius, delivered from the southern part of the Great Temple of Atum-Ra-Amon in Thebes.
It was originally built for the thirtieth anniversary of the reign of Pharaoh Thutmose III, by the way, in 1460 BC. By order of Emperor Theodosius, with considerable effort, he was uprooted from his native land, loaded onto a boat and sent to his current location. We must pay tribute to the Byzantine riggers - although they dropped the obelisk so that it burst across itself, they dropped it successfully - it burst evenly. Or maybe the whole thing just didn’t fit on the barge. Still, it was almost a third larger? But this question will forever remain shrouded in secrecy.
Another obelisk perched not far from it. Although higher, it reaches less smoothly into the sky than its Egyptian neighbor. This is an example of local creativity - the obelisk of Constantine (can you feel the variety in the names of the columns of the city?), erected by Emperor Constantine VII in honor, suddenly, of Vasily I. Rumor has it that previously it was covered with sheets of gilded bronze, which hid the general imperfection of the shapes of the column, and which were successfully torn from it by the crusaders and melted down into crosses.
Comparing these two essentially identical, but somewhat different in form, monuments, you begin to understand what “Don’t scatter yourself” means. The Egyptians still manage to amaze the imagination with the clarity of their execution. Maybe they didn’t come up with all sorts of horrors like Rococo, but they learned how to create huge geometric shapes masterfully.
The Serpentine Column looks very sad next to these neighbors, representing three intertwined snakes, created from the weapons of the defeated Persians by Greek craftsmen for the Delphic sanctuary of Apollo and, correctly, obtained from there by a zealous collector of beauty in the person of Constantine. In 1700, the heads of snakes were smashed by an unknown herpetophobe. Only one head survived, which is now shown separately from the body in Istanbul archaeological museum.
Istanbul
Istanbul Impressive in size too. In addition to the Asian and European coasts, the city includes the Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara. Of the four islands, we visited only the largest one; there wasn’t much to see there, and we went to visit the beach. The same cats, traders, restaurants. I was pleasantly surprised by the ban on cars - people move around the island only on horse-drawn carriages.
It's big Istanbul constantly teeming with people, ships, trams. Everyone is running somewhere, speaking a wide variety of languages.
We constantly tried to get away from tourist routes, turned into alleys, looked into doors, looked for places where there were more beggars and punks. The photographic material, of course, still requires processing, but I’ll show you a few more real shots Istanbul than the sights licked to a shine.
We even chose an apartment on a working street, completely filled with shoe workshops. The attitude of the Turks towards all sorts of ruins is amazing. On the ancient walls of Constantinople - almost 20 kilometers of well-preserved walls - local residents grow parsley and tomatoes, and the wreck of 1880 attached to our house happily served as a garbage dump.
On the European Istanbul embankment, tourists cluster in only one place - at the piers opposite the Egyptian Bazaar; the rest of the embankment is a narrow strip of concrete along a slightly wider strip of boulders piled along the shore. Locals fish in any convenient place.
Muslims, as in Moscow, do not fit in a crowd in mosques, so there are times when suddenly the streets are covered with rugs and filled with worshippers.
People
I can’t generalize the people of Istanbul, divide them into groups and generally somehow systematize the people filling the streets of the city. An attempt to list all the ingredients of the crowds on the streets has failed: shopkeepers, restaurant barkers, tourists, beggars, devout Muslims, white collar workers, policemen, tourists, garbage men and dozens of other isolated groups are mixed into a special cocktail in such a way that the human mass does not turn into one gray whole, as in Moscow and dozens of other megacities.
We never got into any trouble, although I hoped to photograph the riots, and we didn’t disdain the non-tourist streets at night. Small groups of police on Taksim Square and in the surrounding area (armed, by the way, are much more solidly armed than the Moscow “anti-dissent” regiments) added drama, but no pogroms or overthrows of power occurred during our visit.
