Machapuchare is an unconquered peak. The story of a single ascent. Machapuchare - an unconquered peak, an unconquered peak

Extreme sports enthusiasts have tried to climb these peaks more than once. But something always interferes with them: either hunger, or weather, or suddenly adopted laws. We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, which makes the next eight unconquered peaks even more desirable. Especially if you are an extreme sports enthusiast, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum
Height: 7,570 meters
Location: China-Bhutan border
Why not conquered: stupid laws
Gangkhar Puensum lies on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is definitely not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. Four attempts were made in the 1980s, after which Bhutan passed a law prohibiting mountaineering at altitudes above 6 km.

The north wall of Masherbrum 4 subtly hints: “Don’t even try to climb me.”

North Face of Masherbrum 4
Height: 7.821 m
Location: Pakistan
Why not conquered: extreme difficulty
Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has ever climbed. The reason is still the same – the route is “unrealistically extreme”.

Mount Siple
Height: 3,110 m
Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
Why not conquered: harsh climate
This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and distance from the civilized world. It is suspected that Mount Siple is actually an extinct volcano covered by a glacier.

Machapuchare
Height: 6,998 m
Location: north central Nepal
Why it was not conquered: religion and law
The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out clearly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the mercy of the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, led by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal. The point is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept its promise, Nepal's top officials immediately closed Machapuchare to any visits.

Gangkhar Puensum is the most high mountain in Bhutan with a height of 7,570 meters, as well as the 40th highest peak in the world. Many will be very surprised that Gangkhar Puensum still remains unconquered when most of the peaks in the Himalayas were conquered decades ago.

The summit of Gangkhar Puensum lies on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact boundary is disputed. Chinese cards placed the peak right on the border, while other sources placed it entirely in Bhutan. When the mountain was first mapped in 1922, maps of the area were woefully inaccurate. Even more recently, maps of the area showed the summit in different locations and marked with different heights. One of the first teams that decided to conquer the peak could not find the mountain at all.


Bhutan only opened itself to mountaineering in 1983, as the mountains were considered the abode of sacred spirits. When the country finally opened its doors to climbers, a series of expeditions were organized. Between 1985 and 1986, four ascent attempts were made that ended in failure. The decision to take up mountaineering did not last long. In 1994, the government banned climbing mountains above 6,000 meters, and since 2004, mountaineering in the country has been completely prohibited, out of respect for local customs.


In 1998, a Japanese expedition received permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum north of Bhutan, on the Tibetan side. But a long-standing border dispute with Bhutan never made it possible. Instead, the expedition went to the 7,535-meter nearby peak Gangkhar Puensum North, which had not previously been climbed. The climbers came to the conclusion that an expedition to the main peak would be successful if they were allowed to organize it.


Bhutan itself has also not explored the peak, and the country has no interest in conquering it anytime soon. With the difficulty of obtaining permits from the government, as well as the lack of rescue support, the mountain is likely to remain unclimbed in the near future.

On July 31, 1954, only 52 years after the first attempt to climb, one of the most difficult mountains to climb finally fell before the climbers. mountain peaks- K2. Against this background, we recall other stunning peaks, for various reasons still unconquered.

The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out clearly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the mercy of the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, led by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal. The point is that in Hindu beliefs, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept its promise, Nepal's top officials immediately closed Machapuchare to any visits.

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered sacred mountain among representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the Chinese government, which occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not yet allowed it to be conquered. All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who received permission from the Chinese authorities to conquer Kailash, subsequently abandoned the climb, and the Spanish expedition of 2000, which bought a pass for a significant sum, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route and protests from the UN.

The highest unconquered peak in the world, rising more than seven and a half thousand meters above sea level. Located on disputed territory between Bhutan and China, she could have submitted to the Japanese expedition in 1998 if official Beijing had nevertheless issued permission to climb. The Japanese eventually climbed to nearby Liancang Kangri. Gangkhar Puensum could have fallen earlier, when mountaineering was already allowed in Bhutan, but a ban on visiting peaks above six thousand meters had not yet been introduced (again for religious reasons). However, the expeditions of 1985 and 1986 ended unsuccessfully.

The peak, which reaches 7,207 meters into the sky, is also located on the constantly disputed Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiabu, even before the law “everything above six thousand is prohibited.” After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the Korean expedition took neighboring Shimokangri, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

This mountain, whose peak is at an altitude of 7221 meters, has not yet succumbed to human persistence, not only because of certain difficulties with which Western expeditions obtain climbing permits from China. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and unruly peaks in the world - high technical complexity and an extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly unfavorable weather conditions More than one expedition was stopped along the way.

Being in politically disputed territory (Pakistan's Kashmir) poses no particular problems for climbers seeking to storm this unruly peak. But the mountain itself, which is by no means the highest (6979 meters above level) of the Baltoro Muztagh ridge, gives expeditions much more problems than K2, which is the highest high peak this mountain formation. Quite a few experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

Despite its modest height, barely exceeding three thousand meters above sea level, the Antarctic Siple volcano remains on the list of unconquered peaks of the world. Apart from its geographical inaccessibility, which, for example, did not prevent climbers from climbing Erebus, any additional difficulties in climbing to the top are unknown.

We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, which makes the next eight unconquered peaks even more desirable. Especially if you are an extreme sports enthusiast, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

  • Height: 7,570 meters
  • Location: China-Bhutan border
  • Why not conquered: stupid laws

Gangkhar Puensum lies on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is certainly not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest peak yet unclimbed. Four attempts were made in the 1980s, after which Bhutan passed a law prohibiting mountaineering at altitudes above 6 km.

Source: wikipedia.org

North Face of Masherbrum 4

  • Height: 7.821 m
  • Location: Pakistan
  • Why not conquered: extreme difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has ever climbed. The reason is still the same - the route is “unrealistically extreme”.


Source: supercoolpics.co

Mount Siple

  • Height: 3,110 m
  • Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
  • Why not conquered: harsh climate

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and distance from the civilized world. It is suspected that Mount Siple is actually an extinct volcano covered by a glacier.


Source: wikipedia.org

Machapuchare

  • Height: 6,998 m
  • Location: north central Nepal;
  • Why it was not conquered: religion and law

The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out clearly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the mercy of the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, led by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal.

The point is that in Hindu beliefs, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept its promise, Nepal's top officials immediately closed Machapuchare to any visits.


Source: green-travel.biz

Kailash

  • Height: 6.638 m
  • Location: Southern Tibetan Plateau in the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China
  • Why not conquered: “sacred” status

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered a sacred mountain by representatives of four major religions - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the Chinese government, which occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not yet allowed it to be conquered.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who received permission from the Chinese authorities to conquer Kailash, subsequently abandoned the climb, and the Spanish expedition of 2000, which bought a pass for a significant sum, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route and protests from the UN.


Source: wikipedia.org

Tongshanjiabu

  • Height: 7,207 m
  • Location: Central Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
  • Why not conquered: laws

The peak, which reaches 7,207 meters into the sky, is also located on the constantly disputed Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiabu, even before the law “everything above six thousand is prohibited.” After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the Korean expedition took neighboring Shimokangri, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.


Perhaps it is hardly possible to find a more mysterious and mysterious place on Earth than Tibet. Many amazing natural objects are concentrated here, which still excite the minds of not only ordinary people, but also scientists. One of these places is Mount Kailash, recognized as sacred by all world religions.

Every year, pilgrims come here from different parts of the world to perform the special “Koru” ritual and walk around the mountain.

The largest natural pyramid on the planet

Mount Kailash in Tibet is the only one of its kind; in fact, it is a regular pyramid, all four sides of which correspond to different cardinal directions. In this case, the top of the pyramid has a rounded rather than sharp shape. At any time of the year, the peak of the mountain is covered with a layer eternal ice and snow, which is why it sparkles like giant crystal. The pyramid itself rises in the center of a kind of stone lotus - its petals are ancient rocks, bent at different angles. The body of the pyramid is divided into horizontal stepped layers - there are 13 in total.

The exact height of the mountain is not known to this day. If you believe regular measurements, the size of the pyramid is constantly changing. The sacred Mount Kailash suddenly becomes several tens of meters higher, and the next time the height is measured, it turns out that it has become much lower.

The average amplitude of vibration of the pyramid is recognized to be 6,666 meters - a very symbolic number, denoting, in accordance with many esoteric teachings, the sign of the Absolute.

The most amazing thing is that the distance from the mysterious peak to the North Pole is exactly 6,666 km, exactly the same distance from the pyramid to the British Stonehenge, and to the South Pole - the number 6,666, multiplied by two.

Swastika Mountain – the cradle of religions

Mount Kailash, a photo of which anyone can see, closely resembles a huge swastika, or the ancient solstice sign. At the very top of the pyramid you can see another exactly the same sign, formed thanks to the ridges of the mountain and the beds of the four greatest rivers of Asia: the Indus originates from the northern slope, the Karnapi from the south, the Brahmaputra from the east, and the Sutlej from the west. The mighty streams of these rivers provide water for half of all of Asia.

It is not surprising that this ancient mountain is a major pilgrimage site for people of various faiths. It is here that the Center of Four Religions is located, whose followers today are considered to be at least one billion people. The secrets of Mount Kailash have haunted the minds of people for thousands of years.

It is known that Buddhism, the official religion of Tibet, came to these places from neighboring India, and the true religion of this region was Bon - the oldest teaching that has existed on Earth for more than 9 thousand years. According to legend, the founder of this religion is Tonpa Shenrab, who descended to the top of the pyramid from heaven. A long time ago, there was a powerful Bonpo empire here, which occupied the territory from China to the Arabian Peninsula.

Secrets of sacred Kailash

Many travelers over the centuries have tried to conquer the mysterious pyramid, despite the fact that climbing Mount Kailash is strictly prohibited by local authorities, since the peak is sacred. Some explorers unsuccessfully tried to enlist the support of the authorities, and there were also attempts to secretly conquer the mountain. Needless to say, they all ended in complete failure.

According to ancient scriptures, an ordinary person will never be able to set foot on the snow-white peak of Kailash, and the secrets of the deep connection of the Earth with the global Cosmic Mind will remain inaccessible to us. Perhaps the legends of Mount Kailash will be passed on from generation to generation for a long time until finally answers to all questions can be found.

As soon as Tibet became accessible to foreigners, the mountains and surroundings mysterious country literally filled with travelers from Europe and America. All of them had the most modern equipment and precision instruments, which should have greatly facilitated the conquest of local peaks.

The main goal of the researchers, of course, was ancient pyramid, the mysticism of which haunted and excited the minds of people. Despite the most serious preparation, none of these expeditions achieved their goal. Moreover, every person who took part in such a hike, soon after the descent, died in the most mysterious way.

Explorers of Mount Kailash

And yet, some lucky ones managed to get at least a little touch on the secrets of the pyramid. One of them is the famous explorer Reinhold Messner. Somehow he managed to obtain official permission to climb to the top of the pyramid in 1985. The exact day for the start of the expedition was set and its plan was developed, but at the very last moment the traveler completely abandoned his intentions.

A similar story happened to Spanish explorers who received permission to climb to the top of Kailash for a very round sum of money. Later they said that they could not even approach the mountain due to numerous protests from believers. The expedition was condemned by the Dalai Lama himself. Probably will not soon be available to researchers in this mysterious area.

The Russian traveler Yuri Zakharov, who set out on his expedition in 2004, also tried to conquer the Tibetan peak. He not only climbed the slope of the pyramid, but also covered a whopping 6,300 meters, slowly moving along south side Kailasa. Unfortunately, the brave researchers were never able to climb to the very top due to too unfavorable weather conditions.

In addition, the group itself was inexperienced and did not have professional equipment. The climb to the top never took place. It all looks as if these areas were cursed by unknown forces that have been living here for thousands of years. Who will be able to break the series of failures and solve the ancient mystery? sacred mountain? Perhaps this will happen very soon, or perhaps it will never happen.