Travel to Indonesia. Holidays in Indonesia: big islands tour Indonesia self-travel reviews

The fourth time to Asia - this time to Indonesia. Again, only ladies of free age (when they are still almost young, and the children are already adults). Tickets for Qatar Airlines were purchased back in the spring - 22,000 from Moscow to Jakarta and back. Unfortunately, tickets for Batavia from Jakarta to Denpasar were bought later and therefore cost 110 $.

The flight went well, with disposable socks, a computer in the back of the seat, a semi-working remote control, and even Russian films.

In Jakarta, we bought a visa for $ 25 (for this you only need to have a passport and money). Money was changed there (1 $ = 8250 rupees). We took a shuttle bus to the first terminal, having waited for it for 25 minutes before that. Batavia flies from terminal 1C. And the shuttle bus brought us to 1A. I had to run.

And now almost a day of flight is over, and at 21-40 we will land in Bali. We were greeted by a pleasant coolness near the equator. Took a taxi for Rs 60K (after bargaining, of course) to Jimbaran. Hotel villapuriroyan was booked back in May on an Internet without prepayment on their website. A cozy, beautiful courtyard appeared before our eyes, even at night we saw a small pool, a lot of greenery around.

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The rooms were spacious and clean, although the furnishings were not new, but the price was also low - Rs 242K per room. After they went to the sea, or rather to the ocean. The beach is not far from the hotel. The sea greeted us with waves, and the beach with soft sand. The breeze was blowing and it was nice. We had dinner with local dishes of vermicelli and rice. Satisfied and well-fed fell on the bed and fell asleep.

We got up at 10 and went to breakfast. We were offered a choice: fried noodles, thick flatbread with jam and toast, as well as coffee or tea. Balinese coffee turned out to be quite nothing. When we were full, we went to the sea to swim, enjoy life and acclimatize. The beach is sandy, quite clean, the waves were terrible outside, good inside. That is, it is quite possible to swim out for them and swim at depth.

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We went to the fish market, which is located near the airport. Disliked: dirty and smelly. There are also fruit rows. But we were there in the evening, so we got only papaya.

In the evening we went to dinner at MegaTebaCafe. It is located in the left corner of the bay, facing the ocean, in a row of other cafes without tablecloths. There we took two sets of Rs 90K each. They included fish, shrimp, mussels, rice, sauces, water, fruits. And, of course, we took freshly squeezed juices separately. They are wonderful there! It was enough for four.

We agreed to take a taxi for the whole day at the reception for 500K rupees.

Booked breakfast in advance half an hour earlier. Somewhere at 8-20 we left.

First we went to Dreamland, a beach near Uluwatu. It was impossible to swim there because of the big waves, but beautiful! Sand, rocks, wave crests.

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We found a small pothole in the rocks on the shore, and there we tumbled a lot in the waves.

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The next item on our program was Uluwatu. It is a temple that occupies the southern cape of Bali. The path led along the edge of the cliff, and we saw huge waves crashing against the cliffs.

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Many monkeys run around the territory. These impudent creatures grab cameras from gaping tourists, glasses and caps.

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Thank God they are afraid of the stick.

Further our way lay to the bourgeoisie in Nusa Dua. We swam there, you will not believe it, without waves. It was a little dirty near the shore, but further on there was real bliss: the water was clear and warm. I didn't want to go out, but I already wanted to eat.

The driver brought us to the restaurant, beautifully decorated with tablecloths. This immediately aroused our suspicions, but the menu put them to sleep. Although the prices were low, the amount of the output product dropped sharply. Thus, having paid Rs 500K, we left the restaurant with a slight feeling of hunger.

Finally, we visited Tanah Lot. This is a temple standing in the sea. At low tide, he finds himself on the shore.

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We watched the sunset there and went to Artmarkit, which is located nearby. There are a lot of souvenirs and clothes. Lots of beautiful palm wood products. For everything you need to bargain and cut the price by 2 times.

We arrived home late, on the way we stopped at a minimarket, where we bought inexpensive good fruits.

Today we move to Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. Yesterday's taxi driver took us there for an hour and a half and for 250K rupees. He also found us the Ubud terraces hotel ( [email protected]), which is located on Monkey forest street.

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The hotel has a large, beautiful area, spacious rooms. With fan 250K, with air conditioning 300K. There is a swimming pool. We gladly agreed.

True, then they were surprised to find that there was no soap in the room. At our request, we were asked to buy it ourselves.

But that's not the point. Ubud amazed and fell in love with us at first sight. It is very Asian and, at the same time, not like other Asian cities. It is clean and green with many temples.

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There are many small hotels, cafes, shops. There you can wander and wander.

But we were pressed for time. After swimming in the pool, we went to the Monkey Forest. This is a piece of the jungle, in which paths, temples, and monkeys are found harmoniously.

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They are funny and well-mannered unlike their counterparts in Uluwatu. They do not rip off anything, but they can climb on top of visitors and try to take away the camera. You can feed them bananas and watch their relationship endlessly. This place turned out to be quite worthy of our visit.

We turned right. Soon the street turned into a path and we saw rice terraces. Rice was green, water gurgled along the irrigation ditches, palm trees surrounded the path. The beauty of a world different from us.

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The locals worked the fields, went about their business and smiled at us, offering coconuts. Then the path turned into a path and went down into a ravine. When we crossed to the other side and sat down to rest, an aborigine came up to us and hinted at a late time. We turned back and walked along the same side of the ravine, without crossing it. The path turned into a path winding among the local farms. Suddenly we heard heart-rending croaking and saw from the side a snake devouring a frog. The sight is not for the faint of heart. Passed by Organic farm cafe. Then we entered Ubud into the street perpendicular to Monkey forest.

Wonderful walk!

After swimming in the pool, we decided to try a local massage. There are a lot of spa centers in Ubud. We took a traditional Balinese massage for Rs 80K. Wonderful! For an hour the strong hands of the baliks were kneading our tired bodies. On the street we agreed with a taxi driver for tomorrow for 500K rupees.

Before going to bed, they found the absence of a second sheet or duvet cover.

We got up early, already at 7-50 we left. But before that, they caught a fight, who was cleaning the numbers, and almost forcibly tore four sheets from him.

The first item on our program was GunungKawi... 300 (as they say, they themselves did not count) steps led us to the river. On the way we admired a very picturesque landscape. Rice terraces, palms on steep slopes.

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Below they saw the royal tombs: huge reliefs carved into the rock.

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Not far from them is a small temple on the other side of the river. A very beautiful place.

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The next item was suggested by our driver: something like a garden for tourists. There we saw how coffee, cocoa, various exotic fruits grow, and luwaks also live there. These are cats with a fox face. They eat coffee beans and then defecate with them. Undigested grains are washed, dried and roasted as usual.

We were treated to coffee, cocoa, teas, and we bought a cup of crap coffee for 30K rupees.

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I liked it, this coffee is softer with a slight sourness. In the shop they bought coffee, cocoa, teas and delicious chocolate.

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But the mafia got in our way local guides... These racketeers demanded Rs 300K for a two-hour walk. When we expressed a desire to send them to the bathhouse and go alone, we were accused of violating the laws. The trade did not lead to anything, and we, proudly turning around, drove to the lake. It turned out to be not very interesting.

Soon we got into the car and went to Singaraja... The road went along mountain passes and was unusually beautiful. Really, our driver took us to Lovina. There is a nice beach without waves. The expected black sand turned out to be just dark and did not make much of an impression.

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After swimming, we went to have lunch at the nearest cafe, rejecting the good restaurant offered by the driver.

The last point of our program was the Bratan lake and the temple on it. We arrived there at dusk. Having bought tickets (in Bali, you have to buy tickets everywhere), we went to the territory of the temple. It is a beautiful garden with temple buildings. On small islands of the pagoda.

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Whisper! It is a pity that we did not come here a little earlier, when the mountains on the opposite bank were illuminated by the setting sun.

And home! At 8 we were at the hotel. We disagreed with the driver in assessing the events: we thought we had a great day, but he did not think so. Odd, he expected to be back much earlier.

Money changed in the evening. There are a lot of exchange offices in Ubud, where they never tried to deceive us. We agreed with another taxi driver to take us to Padang Bay for 180K rupees.

On the last day of summer we went to Lombok. We got to Padang Bay in an hour. A ticket to Lembar Marina in Lombok cost 36K for the public ferry and 350K for the speed boat. We preferred the cheapness of the speed and stayed at the pier to wait for the ferry up to 2 hours. All morning ferries were canceled due to the Romodan holiday.

We had more than three hours before departure, and we went swimming. The beach was found to the left of the pier (facing the sea). We bought among the boats in the water, surprisingly clear for the port. Then a cafe on the waterfront with delicious fried bananas was waiting for us. So the forced delay did not tire us in the least.

At half past one we merged with the crowd and went to storm the ferry. The crowd consisted of locals and backpackers.

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We were nimble and agile and burst onto the ferry in the forefront, for which we were rewarded with good seats. A small number of cars and a lot of motorcycles were delivered to the ferry. The people settled down on the seats, on the floor, wherever they could. The ferry was great and there was room for everyone.

We sat in the bow, where a strong wind was blowing. It got really cold.

Four hours passed quickly, and now we are in Lombok.

To our surprise, the square was almost empty. Taxis were out as a class. Romodan again. But the world is not without good people. Seeing our confusion and solvency, a little man jumped up to us and offered us a car for 300K rupees. Bargaining in Romodan is pointless, and we agreed.

On the way, we counted the number of people on one motorcycle. The maximum was five. Baby, dad, mom with two children. It is a pity, it was not possible to photograph this daring five.

We arrived in Sengigi at the Mascot hotel MascotBeachResort which we booked by phone from Bali +62 370 693 365. This is a first line hotel consisting of two bedroom bungalows. A double room cost 450K. The rooms are clean. The garden is pleasant.

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We ate some Indonesian treats at their restaurant. The purchase of a tour to Ridzhani is due tomorrow.

Already at 9 am I was caught by an employee of the company working in our hotel, about trekking in Ridzhani. But we were not yet ready to talk with him. Therefore, we postponed this amusing action for 10. And during this time we called the hotel in Simbalun, from where we are going to start our ascent to the volcano. We were immediately offered a tour including transfer and hotel for 1,500,000 per sister. The route pleased us, but the price was not. Their representative immediately came to us and began to sell us trekking, but he did not want to bargain. We sent him with God and went to the reception to meet with the first pepper. He offered us a hotel in Senara and trekking from Sembalun to Senara for our price of 1200K rupees. We shook hands, paid him half the amount and dispersed satisfied.

For breakfast we took delicious rice with vegetables and additionally ordered delicious fried bananas.

And swim, swim, swim! The beach is great there. Fine sand, clear water.

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One thing breaks the idyll: a small strip of garbage in the water near the shore. We walked along the beach to the right to the cape. It is quite garbage there, and behind the cape there is just a folk beach with all its peculiarities.

Let's go left, there are a number of hotels and cafes. We had lunch at the Sunshine cafe. There was strawberry juice. The food is average.

And here is the last time before Rinjani we swim in the ocean.

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And it's time to get ready. We pack all warm clothes in our backpacks, we leave everything that is not needed at the hotel. Fortunately, the same hotel for two nights after Ridzhani has already been paid in advance through the Adoga website.

At exactly seven in the evening a car came for us, and we set off for Senara. We were there about nine. On the way, by phone, they tried to change the route. We were offered to start the trip to Senara, and end in Sembalun. But this really meant an extra 450m up, since Senaru is at an altitude of 600m, and Sembalun is at 1050m. We refused very politely.

We were accommodated in a modest hotel, where we met our guide Tari.

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We took the absence of a second sheet and the presence of dirty towels as preparation for the trip.

At seven in the morning we were fed a pancake and given coffee and tea. Next, we watched the pickup truck loaded with food, things, porters and a guide. At 9 o'clock they loaded us with our backpacks. We left some extra things where we spent the night.

At about ten we were in Simbalun. There, in the trekking center, we filled out the papers and started at about 11 for our guide.

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At first, the trail went through an open area and was not very steep.

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Then we entered pine forests, or rather meadows with pines growing on them.

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It was hot. We saw many dry riverbeds. At one of the bridges, porters prepared lunch for us. To say that this place was dirty is to say nothing.

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Many groups ate there both before us and with us, and there were no urns there. We tried hard not to watch the porters prepare dinner and wash our dishes. For this they were rewarded with a soup of rollton and vegetables. The tea turned out to be a heap, and we washed our hands with it.

Two weeks before us, there was a fire in these places, and huge areas of burnt grass surrounded us. The guide said this is repeated annually in July and August.

But, fortunately, there were also places untouched by fire. The ascent became steeper, and the views were more beautiful. At sunset we went to the edge of the crater and saw the lake.

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Yes, our ascent to 1600m was not in vain, it was worth going here.

The porters were already here, and tents and dinner were waiting for us.

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The best description of porters was bzzzt. I can only quote it.

They are characterized by small stature and extremely "puny" physique.

They smoke constantly

They carry more than 20 kg of weight at all times on a homemade bamboo structure placed over one of their shoulders. At the same time, the weight of an average "porter" without a load is unlikely to exceed 60 kg.

The aforementioned self-made construction is a storage for food, water, dishes, tents, sleeping bags and other things, without which our hike would be simply impossible.

From clothes on and with them only: shorts, one T-shirt and flip-flops

Each "porter" without much stress is able to overcome the steepest slopes one and a half to two times faster than quite athletic, prepared and motivated tourists (that's us)

For every day of such hellish or, better to say, slave labor, they are entitled to 50 thousand rupees (think about it, it's 5.5 dollars!)

They are most likely robots.

Early in the morning, or rather at night, the ascent to Ridzhani peak 3726m was due. That is, takeoff at 1000m and descent. It was decided to send one of me to this tin.

Rise at 2-30. In total darkness by the fire, the porters gave me coffee and a cookie. Lights were visible on the slope of the mountain: these were the earliest birds that climbed the mountain.

Tari and I set off at 3-15. I switched on the headlamp I bought the day before in Simbalun. The trail was two-lane, and many people walked along it.

At first the ascent was steep, then I reached the ridge and walked along it. Tari got lost halfway, but even the most gifted one cannot get lost there. The road is a variety of mud. It is safe to walk, but very difficult. And in the end, after two and a half hours of ascent, a real tough guy was waiting for me: the steepest takeoff.

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And this is already with accumulated fatigue. Each step was difficult. Dawn had already begun, and it was necessary to reach by all means. The sun was rising over the sea, clouds were swirling somewhere below.

Happy people were already descending, and I looked at them haunted. Another half hour for a hundred meters of ascent, and I am at the top. I will never forget this beauty. The clouds are far underfoot, the Balinese volcanoes Agung and Batur are in the distance, the lake in the Ridjani caldera and a small volcano, cones of fog over the lake.

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Half an hour later, Tari appeared and we began our descent. Now I was already looking condescendingly at the people rising, and they smiled at me with a haunted smile. The descent took me two hours, including photographing the unfolding beauties.

At about half past nine, half-dead from fatigue, I came to the camp.

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Soon, a small volcano was visible, located on a peninsula in the lake. Indescribable beauty.

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A little more, and the sun lit up his crater. There were no clouds, we breathed clean mountain air and enjoyed the beauty around us. There is an observation deck at the top, from where the lake and the volcano can be clearly seen. It is there and only there that tourists who take a two-day tour are brought. We were very glad that we took a three-day tour from Sembalun to Senara. This gave us the opportunity to fully experience Rinjani, its beauty and uniqueness.

Then we went down to Senara. There are 2 km of descent per 12 km. At first it is steep on the stones, then on the loose. The area was open, and below there was a forest with clouds on it. It was funny to see the jungle first, then the clouds, above them the sea and the sky. Agung was seen in Bali, Gili Islands.

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There were also chunks of burnt grass, but in comparison with the surroundings of Sembalun there were few of them. Then the path entered the jungle and into the clouds. The trail is excellent and very scenic. With a fall in height, the nature of the forest changes. It becomes thicker, vines and thorns appear.

In the evening we went for a massage. Opinions were divided. To two it seemed much worse than in Ubud, to two it seemed much better.

Last time in Lombok we had dinner at our hotel. We were alone in a restaurant by the sea. The food was quite decent for white ladies on vacation. At the Mascot hotel we liked everything: comfortable bungalows, location on the first line by the sea, wonderful garden, good service, a restaurant. Night swim in the ocean, and goodbye Lombok!

Booked Blue bird taxi in advance by phone. The taxi came on time and after 40 and 50K rupees we were already at the Mataram airport.

Lion Air spent a long time and tediously checking my credit card and didn’t even look into my passports. Tickets to Denpasar were bought in advance through the Internet for 250 K rupees. By the way, a boat to Bali from Lombok costs 350K per person.

The flight lasted half an hour and was very interesting. We saw Mataram, then Agung appeared, in Bali we saw our native Jimbaran and Uluwatu.

Once at the airport, we went to the Hotel reservation counter, where a sweet boy offered us the Puri Bamboo Hotel in Jimbaran for $ 55 per double. No, at first he offered other less decent hotels, but as soon as I walked to a nearby similar counter, the hotel I needed was found. We paid for it immediately and received a voucher. At the exit from the airport, we caught a blue bird and reached the hotel in 40K. He turned out to be great. Large comfortable rooms with balcony, pool, pool towels, everything is clean. One drawback - the way to the sea (about ten minutes) goes along a not very pleasant street.

On the main street in a large supermarket they bought a yellow watermelon, mango, melon and the mysterious Lengkeng fruit, aka longan. These are large berries with a tough skin and transparent flesh. They taste like a melon. We liked.

We spent the evening on the beach, dined at our beloved TebaMega on the ocean shore at a table with a candle, tasting fresh seafood cooked on the grill. It also has delicious lime juice.

Continued in the next story

Travel to Indonesia can be as varied as possible: there are temples and National parks, and several volcanoes, and paradise beaches where you can go for turtles or learn to surf. Anastasia Zadorozhnaya - Belarusian, coordinating exchange programs in Warsaw, enjoys film, travels, practices composing interesting routes and for 34travel he shares his recipe for a two-week trip to Indonesia.

Why Indonesia?

Honestly? By chance. I'm ashamed to admit, but before my trip to Indonesia, I didn't know exactly where exactly in South-East Asia it is, and Bali seemed almost a mythical island-state. But somehow, promotions for flights to Asia from Qatar Airways- and I love promotions - and, having studied the possible directions, I chose Indonesia (I will say right away that the choice was very successful!). An additional bonus - if you travel as a tourist for up to 30 days, you do not need a visa to Indonesia.

How to get there?

Fastest - by plane with at least one change. For the price, the ticket comes out a little more expensive than, for example, in, but from time to time you can catch discounts - so at the Qatar Airways sale we grabbed a ticket from Warsaw to Jakarta and back for $ 360, when common price- about $ 560.

When to go

For most of the country, the dry season lasts from April to October, although in winter many tourists come to Bali - the rainy season is not very critical here, because high humidity with small fluctuations is kept on the island all year round. We were in Indonesia in the first half of October and got caught in tropical rain twice (the feeling is unforgettable).

Food

Culinary delights should not be expected from Indonesia (with the exception of Bali). The main national dishes that we met in Java are nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried noodles) and soto ayam - chicken noodle soup. In Java, we ate mainly in local eateries, before ordering, diligently depicting on our fingers that we would add pepper to the soup ourselves. By the way, in Indonesia, coffee lovers can taste one of the most expensive coffee in the world - kopi luwak, known for its specific way of processing the luwak in the body. Apparently, the connoisseurs of us are useless, because it tasted to us like an ordinary diluted under-coffee.

Bali is full of cafes with a variety of food - I advise you to try the sate meat kebabs with peanut sauce and overeat fruit. And on Gili, you should definitely enjoy a dinner of fresh seafood on the seashore, which will be cooked on the grill in front of you.

Lodging

We reserved the accommodations in advance, as the travel schedule was very tight. In Java, places to sleep (fingers refuse to type "hotels") are easier for locals to find through google / blogs, in Bali or Gili, many options are available through Booking and Airbnb.

Route

How many blogs have been re-read and the suffering endured when it was necessary to cross out this or that place or island from the route - do not count. Indonesia has an abundance of beautiful and unique locations, so it was not easy to find the best ones for you. In the end, a plan emerged that was 95% fulfilled.

Day 1-3. Jogyakarta and surroundings

Overnight: 3 nights in a hostel Luwabica art "n coffee house (Jl. Pugeran Timur No. 594, Mantrijeron) run by Emilia, a Polish woman, is the creator of the popular Polish travel blog about Indonesia. Costs around IDR 195,000 for two per night with breakfast. We also rented a brand new scooter through her for IDR 70,000 per day.

We flew to Jakarta, but due to the limited vacation and not particularly enthusiastic reviews about the capital, we decided not to waste time and immediately transferred to the next plane of the Lion Air airline to Jogyakarta (the ticket was bought in advance) - the cultural capital of Indonesia. We left one day for the city itself and one for its surroundings.

In the city I advise:

Be sure to see the Taman Sari water palace with an underground mosque. Although I am opposed to any excursions, I advise you to take a guide at the entrance who, for a tip, will take you throughout the palace and tell you in acceptable English where the Sultan watched his wives in the pool from on hot days and how he chose the one that will spend with him evening.

Those who are in Asia for the first time - ride on an open auto rickshaw, where you sit in front of the driver. It's cool, especially when you almost fly out of the seat!

Walk along the bustling shopping street Malioboro, taste the Indonesian soup soto ayam at a local cafe and go to Batik Art Center Student (Jalan Pajeksan, Cokrodipuran No.18) , where you can see and buy batik works of students and craftsmen.

But most of all tourists are attracted not by the city, but by its surroundings, where two famous temple complexes are located - Buddhist Borobudur and the Hindu Prambanan. Since in one day we wanted to kill two birds with one stone, at 5 am we already rushed on a scooter towards Borobudur (there was a plan to arrive at the temple by dawn, but something went wrong). Closer to the temple, the road is very picturesque - still in my head there is a picture of endless rice fields along the road against the background of Merapi volcano in a bluish dawn haze.

Not far from the entrance we park a scooter for IDR 5000, have breakfast at the nearest cafe (where there were 2 menus: one with more European dishes and the second with local ones) and go to get tickets. And here everyone is faced with injustice: a ticket for foreigners costs 15 times more than for local ones, namely $ 25 ($ 10 for students). If you plan to see two temples like us, you can buy a general ticket for $ 40, valid for two days from the date of purchase. Also at the entrance for about $ 8 (IDR 100,000) you can hire a guide who will tell you more about the history of the complex and its significance. The atmosphere of the temple and the stunning landscapes of the surroundings more than compensate for the early rise - I strongly advise you to come here at dawn. Let there be crowds of tourists and Indonesian schoolchildren around, eager to take pictures with you and practice English, but in the morning light, the temple evokes a magical sense of harmony and peace.

Slightly enlightened and tired of a long walk, we again saddle our scooter and an hour later we find ourselves at the entrance to another temple complex - Prambanan dedicated to the three main Hindu deities - Brahma, Vishna and Shiva. Some of the temples are ruins due to earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. At the entrance, you can also hire a guide - or read about this place in advance in order to roughly understand which temple belongs to which. Against the background of Borobudur, Prambanan loses a little, but it is still worth a visit.

After so much spiritual food, we return to the hostel and pack our backpacks to head towards the national parks in the south of Java in the morning.

Day 4-6. Volcano on volcano

Further, our route lies in the direction of about. Bali via national Bromo-Tenger-Semeru park and the blue lights of the volcano.

Through our hostel owner Emilia we have booked a tour for 3 days and 2 nights for about IDR 650,000 per person. This route can be organized independently by trains and tuk-tuk - it will be a little cheaper, but you need to either have a day in reserve, or walk around the Bromo volcano for only a couple of hours, otherwise you will not be able to catch the train towards Ijen. At first we planned to organize everything ourselves as labor travelers, but when we realized that there was not much time left, and a couple of hours near Bromo was not enough for us, we decided not to risk it.

So, at 8 am we get to the station, where we will have an 8.5-hour drive to the city of Probolinggo. The Indonesian train resembles an electric train, where reality turned out to be much more pleasant than expectations: air conditioning, clean toilets, and seat reservation - and this is in economy class!

In Probolinggo at the station, we immediately change to a bus to our destination - the village of Cemoro Lawang at the edge of the caldera (volcanic basin). At the entrance to the village, they charge IDR 10,000 (less than a dollar) from everyone. One guy refused to pay extra, but in the pitch darkness among the volcanoes, the concept of "all inclusive" does not exist - pay or land. Everyone paid, after which they brought us to bed. And here it doesn't matter how many stars your "hotel" has - at night everyone will be equally cold, so get ready to wear whatever you have.

"In the pitch darkness among the volcanoes, the concept of" all inclusive "does not exist"

They make a long way here for the sake of 2 things - meeting the dawn with a view of the valley of volcanoes and walking along the crater of the active volcano Bromo. The first on the agenda is dawn, so after a short nap at 3 am we are already briskly marching along the path with flashlights and a map. You can walk to the Penanjakan observation deck in an hour or take a jeep for an additional fee, but the last leg of the way up the hill will have to be overcome on foot. The road itself is not difficult - however, due to my physical unpreparedness, I have already crawled the last meters. On the site itself, you will have to knock around in search good place, and there it remains only to wait for the first rays of the sun to break through the horizon. Without further ado, the best sunrise in my life.

Then you can either climb to the second observation deck (where there will be many times less people), or go down and through the lava field approach the Bromo volcano. Unfortunately, we were not able to walk along the crater, because the volcano was slightly puffed with poisonous gases. But if you have such an opportunity, remember - at the entrance to the park you will be asked for a rather large payment of IDR 300,000, but near the Cemoro Indah hotel there is a path along which you can go to the territory bypassing the ticket office (although the sign "No entry" is still there there is).

“We were not able to walk along the crater, because the volcano was slightly puffed with poisonous gases "

At 10 am we pack in a bus and leave towards the next location - Ijen volcano. After an almost sleepless night for 9 hours, the paths pass in a difficult condition, but the stunning views outside the window facilitate the road and remind us that a new adventure awaits us at night.

At about 7 pm we are already dropping into a town whose name does not even show on Google, and we check into our modest room in the Catimore Homestay. It is good enough for a few hours of sleep, and there is a bar nearby where we had dinner. At one o'clock in the morning, we again climbed into our already native minibus, which took us to the foot of the Ijen volcano.

Rather, it is not even a volcano, but a complex of a dozen volcanic objects located around the caldera, where an extraordinary a natural phenomenon for which I was ready not to sleep - blue lights, which are the result of the interaction of hot sulfur dioxide and oxygen. To see them, you first need to go up for about an hour, and then go down to the bottom of the crater for half an hour. The first part of the climb is pretty steep - running shoes and a companion will come in handy to drag you up. Then the road is leveled, and on the descent into the crater there is a sign "No Passage", which does not stop anyone.

The closer to the bottom, the brighter the lights are visible - they are really blue! At the bottom, sulfur is also mined, so at the start, everyone received their own mask from the guide. Sulfur gases on Ijen are dangerous, and I had the feeling that there were very, very many boiled eggs around me that were not the first freshness. But sulfur is really insidious - its smell does not wash out immediately, it haunted us even after returning home.

At dawn, the outlines of one of the world's largest sulfur lakes, which is located in the same crater, Kavakh, also appear. The water in the lake has a stunning turquoise color due to the high acidity and concentration of metals in it, and its temperature varies from 60 degrees at the shore to 200 at the bottom. For the curious: you can touch the water. And near the shores of the acid lake, local residents are engaged in the extraction of sulfur, which condenses from vapors.

Having walked a lot along the crater, in a few hours we get out of it and go down to the bus. And everything that was hidden by pitch darkness at night opens up to the eyes - namely, volcanoes, mountains and hills in lush greenery. The spectacle is amazing! Every minute picking up the jaw, we still go down and for the last time load into the bus, which drops us off at the port of Ketapang, from where a ferry goes to Bali every 20 minutes. After paying for a ticket at IDR 6,000 per person, we hop on a ferry full of Indonesians, and after 2 hours we set foot on Balinese land.

The first impressions of Bali were formed immediately upon leaving the pier, when Indonesians began to run up to us and vying to persistently invite us into their minibuses - but the transport to the city of Denpasar we needed found us on its own. Wikitravel insisted that in Bali you can bargain for a price almost 2 times lower than the initial one, but how many times we have not tried - we managed to throw off a maximum of several thousand rupees. Either the tourists have already spoiled the Balinese, or the hucksters of us are not so hot. For IDR 45,000 instead of 50,000 we had a four-hour shake to Denpasar, so after a bite to eat at the Warung Papet rica-rica cafe near the bus station (by the way, there was the best nasi goreng in our entire stay in the country), we loaded onto the minibus and in the evening finally were able to take a horizontal position in the Nakula Familiar Inn ( Jln Nakula Nomor No.4, Dauh Puri Kaja, North Denpasar).

Day 7-8. Swim on Gili Air

It seems that it was already possible to relax here, sipping a cocktail overlooking the ocean, but after reading that Bali does not abound in beaches with white sand and blue water for swimming, even beforehand I frantically googled where to find paradise on the island. And I found it, but not in Bali, but nearby, on the small islands of Gili. There are only three of them: Gili Trawangan - party, Gili Meno - for lovers and Gili Air - something between the two and just for us. But we were not even convinced by the paradise beaches, but by the opportunity to see turtles right in the coastal waters of the islands.
We only had a day on the island, so I was looking for a transfer option with the earliest departure and the latest return - this was found on easygili.com (also booked in advance). With the transfer Denpasar (Bali) - Gili Air - Kuta (Bali) came IRD 500,000 per person, and we booked our bamboo bungalow through Airbnb for $ 35 with breakfast. On the spot, it turned out that our host has his own boat, on which he takes guests to snorkel and look for turtles, so we immediately signed up for the next morning, after which we went to check if the beaches were really such paradise. The Internet didn't lie! The island can be explored on foot in a couple of hours, stopping at the bars and restaurants to taste freshly prepared seafood ... What a paradise! There are no cars or police on the island itself, but there are legal hallucinogenic mushrooms.

The next morning, the host took us and the guests on a boat away from the coast, where we swam, dived and, most importantly, saw turtles in their natural environment. After several hours in the water, we moored to the shore, dropped in for our things and rushed to our boat in Bali.

"There are no cars or police on the island itself, but there are legal hallucinogenic mushrooms."

Day 9-14. Bali

Bali is a small island, but full of variety. If you want to walk along volcanic beaches and meet the sunrise at sea with dolphins - you go to the north, if you want to go diving - go to the east, in the west there are many surf schools, in the south - the main party, and in the center you will find the Agung volcano, many temples and Ubud with vegan cafes and yoga classes.

We decided to devote the first three days to surfing, so we reserved in advance Legian Village Hotel (Jl. Padma, Legian, Kuta, Kabupaten Badung) and signed up for surfing lessons at the Russian school Surf Season. For three days of classes, which began at 7-8 in the morning, we managed to get up on the board, and personally I was also exhausted to such an extent that all plans for an active survey of the surroundings (in particular, the famous temples of Uluwatu and Tanah Lot) collapsed under the onslaught tiredness. After each lesson, I steadily drifted off to sleep and no temples and beaches could seduce me. But surfing is something that you definitely need to try in Bali, so you can either enroll in a Russian school (a more expensive option), or find Indonesians on the shore who rent out boards and, at least in English, will explain what to do with it ( will come out cheaper, but less efficient).

If surfing does not interest you, it is better not to linger in Kuta. The city is full of tourists, so most of the local traders will double the price of goods and try to fool you in various ways. We got into one story ourselves - on the last evening in Kuta we decided to change money not at an authorized point, but in one of the shops that offer more profitable rates, although we sensed that there was a catch somewhere. The scheme is as follows: there are two guys at the counter, one of whom is counting rupees for you and after each of your recalculations insists that he must count the money again, and the second one speaks to you. After several such recalculations, you no longer remember who was the last one holding the pack in his hand and you rather leave from there. We returned with our rupees to the hotel, we count - and there is not enough a million (well, not dollars). At the reception, they explained to us that the exchanger, when counting with his fingers, brushes off a dozen banknotes. The hotel security guard and his fellow policeman volunteered to help us, although we were sure that our money changers immediately closed their shop and got away. As it turned out, no - a short conversation between our saviors and scammers led to the fact that we returned the rupees we had received earlier, and we were given dollars without question, which we changed at the official point, and then walked along the ocean for a long time and digested this case.

The next morning we left Kuta with relief and took a local bus to Ubud, where we spent our last days in Ojek's Homestay (Jl. Raya Ubud Gg. Soka No. 4 Br. Taman Kelod) riding around the neighborhood on a scooter rented for IDR 50,000 per day. At the surf school we were persuaded not to go to Ubud - for them, as ocean lovers, it was not clear what to do in the interior of the island except to “look for the third eye”, and the well-known film “Eat, Pray, Love” notably promoted this place. But, riding alone through local villages, forests, rice fields, we did not regret our choice at all. There are many interesting locations in Ubud and its surroundings - we managed to visit the following places that we can safely recommend.

The Legong and Barong Dance- traditional Balinese dances. We got to see the show at the Royal Palace - rather unusual, but interesting. The entrance ticket cost IDR 100,000.

Campuhan Ridge Walk- a trail with picturesque views, along which you can reach Carsa Spa - the best spa in my life! It is better to go for a walk early and book a spa in advance.

Monkey forest- a tropical forest where monkeys roam freely. Remember that let the monkeys treat tourists calmly, they are quite unceremonious and insidious, so it is better to keep your bag buttoned with you, and hide your glasses and jewelry. It is better to stock up on bananas for feeding in advance so as not to overpay on the spot. Entrance IDR 50,000.

Pura tirta empul- Hindu temple with famous holy sources. First, it is better to walk around the territory of the temple (which is very beautiful!), And then plunge into the springs - they are not allowed to enter the temple when wet. I advise you to read in advance how to properly perform the ritual of ablution and what to look for. It is believed that the water in the temple is holy and has the power of healing, but even if you do not feel anything, you will definitely be cheered up by its coolness. Entrance: IDR 15,000.

Pura kehen- we arrived here in the evening, so most of all I remembered its low population. We only met a couple of tourists. The temple is located away from the main routes and is not very popular - this is what attracted us. The temple itself is ancient, and a huge banyan tree on its territory gives it a special atmosphere. Entrance 15,000 IDR.

Tegallalang Rice Terraces, which we reached only on the day of departure. The taxi to the airport was ordered for 8 am, so we had to go to the terraces before 5 am. The only thought that somehow invigorated me so early was the shame and shame to visit Bali and not see the rice terraces. At that time, there was practically no one there, and the sun had not yet had time to rise high, so we fully enjoyed the beauty. After all, getting up early in Bali really pays off. Admission is free, although when we wanted to go down to the lower levels, our grandmother followed us, demanding donation. We were running out of time anyway, so we decided to stay upstairs.

directions

Where to go in Indonesia

How to get there: by bemo (minibuses) from Denpasar, by tourist shuttle buses from the airport, Ubud, Kuta, Candidasa, Padang Bai, Amed, Lovina, Kintamani and Bedugul, by boat from Lembongan island, by boat plus shuttle from Lombok and Gili islands.

Photo credit: Tanya, Flickr

Bali Southwest Coast

The southwest coastline is particularly popular with surfers and those just getting on the board. Kuta is the largest and most popular beach in the region, further beyond Kuta along the coast stretch the resort villages of Legian and Seminyak - with quieter and more respectable surf beaches and a developed entertainment infrastructure.

Further west along the coast, there are less touristy surf regions and Tanah Lot - with small surf beaches and excellent surf spots. rice terraces and fishing villages. Already quite far from Kuta on the west coast is the Medevi beach.

Photo credit: globetrekimages, Flickr

Photo credit: jean-marc rosseels, Flickr

Kuta, Lombok island

The large Kuta Beach in the southern part with sandy white beaches, picturesque hills, tiny idyllic bays and big waves is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque beach regions in Indonesia. Kuta - favorite place surfers in Lombok, this is where surfers, tired of crowds, usually run away, and thanks to Kuta, Lombok is called "non-tourist Bali".

The format of housing on Kuta for every taste - from stylish villas to simple bungalows and homestays, and prices are incomparably lower than Balinese ones. The atmosphere in Kuta is lazy, relaxed and very authentic.

Where to live: hotels, bungalows and homestays on Kuta
How to get there: from the airport and ports by taxi or hotel transfers; from the island of Bali - by high-speed boats with a transfer to Kuta.

Photo credit: Alberto Bizzini, Flickr

Gili islands

Near Lombok, and Gili Memo, each of which can be walked around in a couple of hours, is just a paradise for lazy people. The cult of relaxation reigns here, everything is subordinate to it.

On the only road, the largest and most popular of the three, carts with small horses run (there is no car on the island), in every restaurant or bar you will be offered reclining seats, watermelon cocktails and delicious food, and in tiny roadside cafes - magic mushrooms. The beaches on the Gili Islands are of amazing whiteness, and the water with a magical turquoise tint. It is so beautiful, nice and lazy here that it takes tremendous willpower to leave these heavenly places.

Photo credit: Natalia Andersson, loveYouPlanet

Lembongan Island

Located just off the southeast coast, small island Lembongan (Nusa Lembongan) is a great place if you want to suddenly escape from the noisy and crowded southern beaches of Bali. The beaches are snow-white, the water is emerald, the atmosphere is lazy and very authentic. Lembongan is deservedly considered one of the best diving spots in Indonesia, and there are several surf spots on the island. Near Lembongan there are two more islands - the tiny Nusa Ceningan, connected to Lembongan by a bridge and the large non-tourist Nusa Penida, which can be reached by regular boats.

The main format of housing on the island is bungalows of different levels of comfort and prices and the so-called beach huts - beach houses.

To find accommodation on Lembongan Island: Bungalows and Beach Houses
How to get there: by boat from Sanur, shuttle plus boat from Kuta and Ubud.

Amed, Bali island

Amed - This rather remote beach in the eastern part is a favorite destination for divers and backpackers. The eastern coast of Bali is washed by the sea, there are no huge waves and the underwater currents are not as strong as in the southern part of the island, washed by the waves of the ocean.

Black sand, scenic view of the formidable Agugng volcano, magnificent underwater world, excellent infrastructure for diving and snorkeling, a large selection of accommodation and, most importantly, a special relaxing atmosphere distinguish Amed from the noisy party-going southern beaches of the southwestern part of Bali.

To find accommodation on the beach of Amed: dive hotels, villas, hotels and guesthouses
How to get there: by tourist shuttle buses from the airport, Ubud, Sanur, Candidasa, Padang Bai and Lovina.

Bali Photo credit: Andy Troy, Flickr

Photo credit: Ahmad Syukaery, Flickr

Togean Islands

The Togean Islands are located near the northeastern part of Sulawesi in the Tamini Sea. The archipelago consists of 3 large and several dozen small islands, on some of which you can find dive resorts with simple infrastructure or ascetic wooden bungalows. These places are idyllic, but at the same time difficult to access and undeveloped, which, by the way, for many divers and adventure seekers is only a plus)

Photo credit: Alida Szabo, Flickr

Derawan and Maratua

A scattering of coral islands near is considered one of the best diving and snorkeling destinations in the world. Near the most inhabited island of Derawan is the large Maratua atoll and several other tiny coral islands - atolls, most of which are uninhabited. The entire group of islands in the Derawan region is often referred to as the Derawan Islands, although formally the islands are part of the Sangalaki archipelago.

The islands are surrounded by massive coral reefs, where you can often see huge turtles that have chosen the sandy beaches of the islands. The format of living on the islands - from simpler bungalows to luxurious villas on small islands-atolls.

Where to live on the islands: Derawan Dive Lodge, Maratua atoll
How to get there: by plane from Balikpapan to Berau (BEJ), by taxi from the airport to the pier and by shuttle boat to Tanjung Batu (in the direction of Tarakn) or by taxi from the airport to Tanjung Batu (about 4 hours, look at the airport of fellow travelers), from Tanjung Batu on a rented speedboat to Derawan. An airport is planned to open on Maratua Island at the end of 2016 , check the current information at the time of travel.

Photo credit: Ferran Altimiras, Flickr Photo credit: Aning Jati, Flickr

Raja Ampat Islands

The Raja Ampat Islands, located near Papua, are a scattering of tiny karst islands with blue lagoons and coral reefs. Waigeo Island is the only large island in the archipelago where the main infrastructure is concentrated - here you can find very cute eco-resorts with simple wooden bungalows, dive resorts with more comfortable cottages and a brand new budget hostel.

In addition to diving, there are many other eco-activities here - trekking on the Waigeo Island, boat trips between the islands, kayaking and fishing.

Where to live: Raja Ampat
How to get there: by plane to Sorong, from there by boat to Waigeo.

Photo credit: Setiono Joko Purwanto, Flickr

Photo credit: Fajar Nurdiansyah, Flickr

Karimunjava Islands

The Karimunjawa Islands are an archipelago of 27 islands located 90 km off the northern coast in the Java Sea. This is the place for those who are looking for an island paradise not spoiled by tourists. The beaches are white sand, the sea is calm, the corals and reefs are beautiful, the accommodation is different, the residents are friendly, the seafood is cheap. The main tourist infrastructure is located on the very big island archipelago. Among the ways to spend time are motorbike trips, trekking, boat trips, fishing, snorkeling and diving.

Where to live on Karimunjava: hotels, bungalows, homestays
How to get there: by plane to Dewandaru Airport from Surabaya and Semarang; by ferry from Jepara (about 5 hours) or by high-speed ferry from Jepara (about 2 hours), to / from the port of Jepara by cycle rickshaws to the bus station, from where buses run to Semarang, Surabaya, Yogyakarta and Jakarta. Check the current ferry schedules in advance by booking a hotel, tickets can be bought through travel agencies in Semarang, Surabaya and Yogyakarta or on the spot before departure.

Photo credit: David Robbins, Flickr

We came here to celebrate the New Year, so that with the people - we met on our heads! Lots of fireworks, fun, groovy music playing right on the street, everything is very groovy. But, everyone around was stoned, 18-year-old boys / girls were lying right on the sidewalks, pickpockets were pulling out their phones. A kind of variety, look at the seething nightlife... But we do not use any chemical doping and it was a little unpleasant for us to observe the intoxication among young people, mainly Australian, alcohol did not help :). The prices in the cafes are a little cheaper than in many places on the island, the competition is doing its job.

If you go to discos, then you need to walk at 9 o'clock along the running street of Jalan Raya Legian and collect flyers, all of which are offered, somewhere they give free drinks, in several clubs generally from 21-22 they drink beer for free.

While on the territory of Indonesia, it is not difficult to learn a few words in Indonesian, which is very simple, their writing is in the Latin alphabet, and there are no peculiarities in pronunciation:Terimakasih (terimakashi) - thanks,Halo - helloRaya is bigPuspa - a flower, etc. And speaking elementary words in their language, you will always be gifted by the enthusiastic faces of local residents, even though they all know English, young and old. We had the most rudimentary phrasebook on the phone to translate frequently recurring words.

On January 01, we decided to go to at least one famous temple, the choice fell on Pura Uluwatu, otherwise everything is just passing through. Small and small churches are everywhere, because of this, the keen desire to see large ones quickly subsided, because you are constantly in their faith and you feel this due to the fact that offerings are everywhere, music is playing, on the radio several times a day on all the stations sing prayers in a throaty voice; in the mornings, processions in national costumes meet in the streets. We went to the Pura Uluwatu temple - this is a very small temple over a steep picturesque high cliff. The prices have been forgotten, but something like: entry into the territory by means of transport 5,000; Sarong rental 40,000 / person; entrance to the territory 20,000 / person. We already refused to pay the latter, and passed as if nothing had happened, no one was catching up. Monkeys live in the forest. We arrived in the rain, and after it was over, it became the wildest stuffy. Sarongs made of windproof fabric, in the end I had to take it off, then they doused themselves incessantly, one of our tourists broke away and went to the car under the air conditioner, since it was not far from fainting. BUT! The view that opens on the temple is worth all the torment! Awesome! A high rock, waves beat against it, somewhere in the distance you can see a small temple, which you can approach, but you cannot enter the territory. A very inspiring sight!

Due to the considerable distance, the direction can hardly be called a budget one, because only the flight will have to spend at least 34,000 rubles with a flight from Moscow. But if you try a little, then it is quite possible to find ways to relax beautifully and at the same time save money.

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Indonesia is nestled in Southeast Asia between the Indian and Pacific Oceans. The island country has a rich history, vibrant culture and incredible landscapes that seem to have left the pages of the best travel booklets. Due to the considerable distance, the direction can hardly be called a budget one, because only for the flight you will have to spend at least 34,000 rubles with a flight from Moscow. But if you try a little, then it is quite possible to find ways to relax beautifully and at the same time save money. In this article, we just want to offer you such a topic: “KHow cheap is it to go to Indonesia ".

How to spend at least on the road

To get to Bali or another resort in Indonesia is absolutely free or "for 3 kopecks" will not work. The most profitable option is to fly with transfers. Any city in Southeast Asia is perfect as a transit point. Focus on current promotions and choose between Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong or Kuala Lumpur. In practice, there are round-trip options from Moscow for 20,000 rubles. Residents of the Far East are more fortunate - from Vladivostok you can get to Bali at a price of 12,000 rubles.

Fun for the frugal

To the delight of budget travelers, there are many ways to soak up the magic of an exotic country without spending a dime. Of course, we are talking about staying on the territory of the island. Thousands of white sandy beaches invite tourists to spend time there without thinking about the material side of the matter. Those with an acute thirst for adventure can go to conquer the vast rainforests or the magnificent volcanoes scattered throughout the state.

History lovers will not be bored either. Indonesia has become home to tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of Hindu temples. Although visiting especially important shrines requires an entrance fee, there will be enough free architectural monuments for more than one trip. For example, Pura Taman Saraswati is the most beautiful temple complex in the center of Ubud in Bali. The only thing you have to pay for is dance shows on Thursdays.

Connoisseurs of hand-made creativity will find an outlet in the works of local artisans. It is noteworthy that there is an opportunity not only to observe the process of making souvenirs, but also to take part in it.

Free attractions

A country overflowing with natural resources awaits travelers with different levels of income. Tired of basking on the white sand under the gentle sun or examining the masterpieces of architecture, go in search of miracles. Fortunately, there are really a lot of them here. To get started, take a trip to Broken Beach (Broken Sea) on the islet of Nusa Penida. The miracle of nature is located just 12 km from Bali. At first glance, it is quite an ordinary arch in the rock, but upon closer acquaintance, it becomes clear that this is a difficult geological phenomenon. The hole in the cliff was once a cave, the floor of which collapsed, allowing water stream form a natural pool.

Another must see is the lotus lagoon in Chandidasa village. A small roadside pond is replete with lemon and purple water lilies. There are many other entertainments in the vicinity of the reservoir. For example, rent a bike and ride through the hills, or go to the statue of Hariti - the Buddhist patroness of children, upbringing and a happy marriage.

Properly organized meals are a great way to save money.

One thing that can save a lot is on food. You will be great at this if you bypass the catering establishments at tourist points. Instead, look for street vendors and markets that are geared towards locals. Night bazaars in Sanur and Seminyak offer a rich variety of traditional food at low prices.

Advice. It doesn't matter which number is on the price tag or on the menu. Ultimately, it all depends on your bargaining skills.

Affordable Housing

The peak period in Indonesia falls in January, August, September and December. If you go on vacation during these months, you will have to spend more on accommodation than usual. During the low season, hotels are often empty, so there is a chance to negotiate a reasonable price. If you have a tight time frame, then the universal answer to the question “KHow cheap is it to go to Indonesia? "like this: choose budget cities and resorts. For comparison: in Sumatra it is possible to rent a room for 5 USD per night, while in the expensive areas of Java and Flores the cost of living varies from 15 to 100 USD per night. In some places in Bali (Kuta, Sanur, Legian), bungalows are cheaper than hotel rooms. However, many of them are equipped with air conditioning or ceiling fans, as well as a private bathroom.

Fare

If, when choosing a resort, you are staying in Bali, but want to see the neighboring islands, be sure to allocate some of the money for internal transfers. Traveling between the islands will be quite cheap, so you shouldn't deny yourself the pleasure of seeing as many places as possible. Getting from one end of the country to the other is also not a problem. Many islands have airports, and buses run to the most remote villages. Flights are naturally expensive, so take the ferries. Expect to shell out about $ 2-3 for each crossing.

You can't run into a taxi too much. Although the rates are acceptable, but with constant moving, the amount per day runs up a decent one. An alternative is cheap public transport. Commuter trains, as in many Asian countries, are overcrowded, but with a little patience, you can get away with 25 cents per trip. Appreciate freedom - rent a scooter. A day of rental will cost about two dollars. And if there are two of you, can you imagine? !!

Harmonious and easy travel!