In winter or summer in Teriberka. Warning shot to the head. Mayor of Teriberka: My dream has come true - we will have asphalt
Roads of the north in winter: Tersky coast, Teriberka, Tumanny, Kirovsk, to the Norwegian border. April 24, 2017
In the Moscow region, although it is rainy at times, it has long been spring, and in Kola there is still plenty of snow and snowdrifts. Our test trip in February turned out to be very successful, so I can safely recommend that everyone follow our example. In this post I will try to answer the most popular question about Kola Peninsula: "Well, what about the roads?"
I'll start with the main thing: there are main roads in winter and they are regularly cleaned. The equipment travels systematically and if weather tolerant, then getting to Varzuga, Teriberka, Tumannoye or returning from Nikel via Prirechny will not be difficult.
It is worth paying attention to the fact that in the vast majority of cases the road surface is pure ice or densely packed snow. Don't expect asphalt. Considering that, due to the terrain, many roads are winding and have elevation changes, I highly do not recommend driving on all-season or simply bad winter tires. Extremely. I also remind you that no matter how good winter tires are, the laws of physics have not been repealed, so you should not rush along icy roads at high speed.
Now in more detail about what to expect from each direction.
Tersky coast
Grader to Varzuga (47K-011)
Before Varzugi the road is good. On the asphalt part more ice, on the grader - compacted snow. By the way, the snow itself is up to your ass, both literally and figuratively - there are huge snowdrifts almost everywhere.
Asphalt from Kandalaksha to Umbu (47K-010)
Lapel, except for large ones settlements, of which there are very few, no. TO Amethyst shore don't pass.
Kashkarans
IN Kashkarantsi You can easily drive to the lighthouse and admire the White Sea.
Road to Kuzomen
WITH Cuzomenho somehow it’s not entirely clear. After the turn, the grader area and a small parking lot were cleared. There are cars in the parking lot, and further along the road there are only tracks of snowmobiles. But on the other hand, it is clear that the forest road was clearly cleared, and this was not the case in any other place on the snowmobile trails. Fishing forums claim that the only way to the village is by snowmobile.
Towards Khibiny
Of course, you can drive to Apatitov And Kirovsk, and in Kirovsk itself up to botanical garden and the Tirvas sanatorium. There is no road to the mountains Even the nearest quarry can only be reached by snowmobile.
Roads to the village October and in Koashvu cleared, covered with compacted snow.
Towards the Norwegian border
The road has been cleared, but it’s not worth driving as hard as you can on it: drivers on this road sometimes can’t control control even in the summer, let alone in winter ice There's really no point in taking risks. What looks like dark asphalt in the photo is actually transparent ice.
Highway Murmansk - Norwegian border (R-21)
Border control points in Titovka and at the fork Prirechny – Murmansk – Lotta are working.
Checkpoint Murmansk - Prirechny - Lotta (47K-092 - 47A-059)
Road to Rybachy and Middle From the asphalt exit there is only a snowmobile, you can’t even get to the nearest waterfall.
Turn to Sredny and Rybachy
Get to by car Kola superdeep well no chance, only until the quarry.
Road from Nickel to Murmansk via Prirechny(including entry into the village itself) has been cleared, no problems. On this road we encountered quite heavy fog. To what extent this is a typical phenomenon in that particular area, I do not know. In general, when traveling in the north, you should be prepared for strong fogs at any time of the year.
Highway Nikel - Murmansk via Prirechny (47K-092)
Towards Teriberka and Far Zelentsy
Grader in the direction of Tumannoye and Dalniye Zelentsy (47K-050)
The general asphalt part of the road in that direction has been cleared and, as usual, is covered with ice and snow.
Graders up to Teriberki, Foggy And GES-16 They are regularly cleaned, but there is one “but” :) The cleared road in those places can be swept away very quickly and the main problem here is the wind. Snow drifts sometimes form by the time the special equipment has not even had time to go all the way and turn into reverse direction. And this is with a wind of only 8-10 m/s! I think it’s not difficult to guess what happens there during stormy winds and snowstorms. The photo below shows snow beginning to cover the road, which had already been cleared earlier that day.
Asphalt part of the road to Teriberka and Dalnie Zelentsy (47K-050).
After GES-16, where the primer begins in Far Zelentsy, you can only get through it on a snowmobile. By car, as experience suggests, you will be able to get there after approximately June 10, and only if they use special equipment to break through the snowfields.
Turn at the hydroelectric station to Dalnie Zelentsy
IN Teriberka getting there is no problem. However, the Gazprom road and the road to the waterfall, of course, are not cleaned; if you want to visit these places, you will have to walk.
In the photo above, notice how the wind is blowing snow across the road. I won’t tire of repeating that in the north the question is: “Is it possible to get there and how comfortable?” It depends quite a lot on the weather. In the morning you can, in the evening you can’t. Or vice versa. Or what other options - it is not always possible to predict this.
Grader to Teriberka (47K-051)
Regarding graders, I would like to note one more point. In winter, the quality of the coating on them, due to compacted snow, seems better than in summer. If in the warm season you drive 60 kilometers per hour, then in winter on straight sections you can do at least a hundred - there will be no shaking. It’s possible, but still not worth it: unexpected snow changes, it’s slippery, and flying, for example, from the Teribersky grader will be high and unpleasant in some places.
The conclusion from all of the above is quite simple: having decent winter tires and a head on your shoulders, traveling around the Kola in winter is no more difficult than in summer! :)
“Leviathan” by Andrei Zvyagintsev brought the director a Golden Globe, and the small village of Teriberka in the north Murmansk region, where the key scenes of the film were filmed, is world famous. In the three years since the premiere, four hotels, a hostel, a restaurant were opened in the village and the third Arctic festival “Teriberka” was held. New life". “Snob” decided to see how “Leviathan” influenced the life of the village
T-
- So this is the Teriberka River! - We've only driven halfway.
— You didn’t specify... Last year tourists got lost here just like that. Family with a small child. We walked for two weeks. Well, at least there was a fishing rod. And my son has some gingerbread in his backpack.
Panorama of Teriberka
To the right of the bridge stood the house of Kolya from Leviathan
Teriberka is a godforsaken place on the shores of the Barents Sea. 1973 kilometers from Moscow, 120 from Murmansk, the last 40 kilometers along a broken dirt road. Just 10 years ago people were allowed into the border zone with special passes. At the end of the 2000s, the village, lost between rocks and tundra, attracted fans of hiking, as well as kite surfers who went to ride the waves of the sea that turned into the Arctic Ocean.
Previously, there were two villages on the coast - old Teriberka, where the first settlements of Pomors appeared in the 16th century, and young Lodeynoye. In the mid-nineties they were united into one village: Teriberka became the “old Teriberka”, and Lodeynoye became the “new”. The road between the villages goes past copper-colored mountains and hummocky, moss-strewn hills, on which blackened snow can be seen here and there.
New Teriberka: displaced people and police in the bathhouse
As soon as we entered the village, we dived into thick fog. Even in July, the temperature here rarely rises above 11 degrees.
We settled on the outskirts of new Teriberka in a two-story house. For the first minutes, it seemed as if there was nothing outside the windows - only a green meadow, an overgrown lake and fog. Unusual silence - you can’t hear any seagulls or dogs, only the wind.
The village is tiny. Five or six five-story buildings and a dozen small houses. More than half of all buildings - both stone and wooden - are abandoned and destroyed, with yellow notices saying “Your house will be moved no later than 2017.” All houses, including seemingly abandoned ones, are hung with satellite dishes. Old people are swarming around their plots.
One of dozens of destroyed houses in Lodeynoye
New house for those displaced from emergency housing
Previously, there was a school and a kindergarten in two villages, but now they remain only in Lodeynoye. The school does not have enough teachers; some lessons are conducted via Skype.
In Lodeynoye there are three grocery stores with Moscow prices, a bakery and a hardware store. Not far from the local church, on Pionerskaya Street, there is a house that has everything: village administration, post office, Sberbank, library, hospital, police, pharmacy, housing and communal services and a bathhouse.
Library director Tatyana Nesterova immediately signed us up reading room. According to her, in total there are “either 885 or 895 people” recorded in the library - this is local residents, and tourists who are interested in the history of Teriberka. Locals, according to the director, read the same books as in “any other library”: science fiction, romance novels and women’s detective stories.
Tatyana Nesterova, director of the Teribersky library:
Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva Director of the Teribersky Library Tatyana Nesterova When I was seven or eight years old, these five-story houses were built in Lodeynoye. And in that Teriberka, Nina Ivanovna works for me, the Pomorie service department, this is my mother. When I was in elementary school, I went to her work. There was a boat, there was no bridge, you could only get there by sea. When I went to her library, it seemed to me that it was a huge village. So many people!
In the late seventies people began to leave. When I went to school in 1976, there were 32 of us in the first class. When we finished elementary school, there were 20-something left. Within three years, my classmates and their parents left here. This happened not only here, but probably throughout the country: people from small towns and villages moved to the city for a better life.
Now a lot of young families with children have left under the program of relocation from emergency housing to Kola. Those who don’t want to move have a house built.
There is plenty of work in Teriberka. We work in the library, someone at school, in kindergarten, at the post office, we have Sberbank, Serebryanskaya Hydroelectric Power Station, our people also work there. The road transport section is where my husband is. The fish factory is private, all our people work there. There is also a collective farm in that Teriberka, all local too. Those who want to work work, naturally. Men catch beluga. And I, for example, spend my evenings in the greenhouse. We live normally, no worse than in the city, and maybe even better. It's quiet here, it's good.
I ask what problems there are in Teriberka, Tatyana first refuses, and then talks about two troubles - a bad road and high prices in shops. “That’s why we go to Murmansk for groceries,” she says.
IN best years Five thousand people lived in Teriberka, just recently - a little more than a thousand, and now - about 800. Two hundred people moved from dilapidated houses near Murmansk. Those who refused to leave Teriberka were given apartments in a new three-story multi-colored house near the school in Lodeynoye. It is due in September.
Old Teriberka: ship graveyard and Gazprom
You can walk from Lodeynoye to old Teriberka in 40-50 minutes, five minutes by car is enough, there are no buses. Along a dusty dirt road stands a church, a chapel, a fish factory, a hotel and a dilapidated port. In an hour, at most a dozen cars pass along the road.
On the approach to old Teriberka, the rusted skeletons of ships are buried in the water. The house of the main character of “Leviathan” Kolya stood here, but nothing remained of the film set - only the steps to the pier.
Old Teriberka is cut in half by the so-called Gazprom road. It runs through the entire village, past a dump of old Lada cars and a cemetery, through a mountain crevice and out to a small bay. The road was supposed to connect Teriberka with the Gazprom gas liquefaction plant, but the plant was never built. Rockfalls are possible on the road, locals warn. Once a mother bear and her cubs were seen there; a family with children stumbled upon them.
Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva The lake near which the Gazprom road ends There is a two-story cultural center near the Gazprom road. Here they teach how to play the piano, button accordion, and accordion, the oldest Pomeranian choir rehearses, photographs and paintings are exhibited, and there is a library. The Museum of Pomeranian Life was recently opened. Nearby, in the building of the former administration, there is an office of a Gazprom subsidiary, and next door is an abandoned hospital. Throughout the village there are rickety gray houses of one or two floors, and it seems that no one has lived in them for a long time.
Drunks and Lapps
On the way to old Teriberka we met Kirill, our guide. He hitchhiked to the festival. “I went to a rave at the end of the world. I went for two days and stayed for a week,” says Kirill. At first he lived in a tent on the seashore in old Teriberka, hung out among the rocks, drank with local alcoholics, and when a storm began, he joined the crowd of Norwegians.
Chum built by the Norwegians
Sign outside a local resident's house
Guys from Russia and Norway gathered in the tent (wigwam, tipi, and in Norwegian lovva): journalists, cameramen, photographers, builders. Actually, they live in a hotel, and use the tent as a kitchen and meeting place. Together they are building a mobile library: they want to cover a Ural truck with planks and collect more Russian classics “for the whole world.” The administration of Teriberka has allowed two dilapidated houses to be dismantled for the library, the locals are already aware - some are helping to build, others are asking where to take the books.
Together with Kirill, we went into a dilapidated wooden house, where the somewhat naive, kind alcoholic Kostya lives. The stove is on, there are shabby sofas along the walls, there is no light or water in the house. Kostya is from Murmansk and comes to Teriberka to fish. He lives in the house of his friend Filipich, with whom he goes to sea on a boat. “Border guards prohibit fishing for crab and salmon, but there is cod. There’s enough to eat.” Friends sell some of the fish to Murmansk stores.
Filipich will arrive only in three days, Kostya drinks and suffers from the dirty tricks of his drinking companions. While drinking, Kostya hid 10 thousand rubles in a suitcase and woke up - there was no money. I fell asleep again - my tablet was stolen. I sent “one woman” for vodka, gave 700 rubles, but she never returned. And on this day Kostya doesn’t want to drink with them at all: “They are dirty. And again they’ll steal something.”
During the festival, guests of Teriberka began to relieve themselves at Kostya’s house, so he hung up a sign “Come piss in the house,” put a glass in the toilet - and they began to leave him 50-100 rubles. So in a couple of days he collected one and a half liters of vodka. One day a man started shitting right under the windows. Kostya was indignant.
“You have a thousand, just don’t blow your mind,” he said in response, holding out the bill.
“For a thousand, you can even shit on the roof,” answered Kostya.
According to Kostya, people continue to live in the destroyed houses, but often there is only one person per 8 apartments. In a couple of houses there are alcoholics, in another there is an elderly woman who is waiting to be rehoused. There is no electricity or water anywhere. Kostya believes that no more than 50 people live in old Teriberka.
We enter a rickety building that seems uninhabited; there is a guitar deck hanging on a cabinet in the hallway. In another house, sheets are dried in the attic. These houses will soon be demolished. According to the plan of the local authorities, only two three-story houses, small dachas and hotels will remain. It is impossible to build permanent residential buildings here - the old Teriberka is located in a flood zone if the nearby hydroelectric power station suddenly breaks through.
On the outskirts of old Teriberka there is a farm, a former collective farm, where cows and calves graze. Near it there is a sign with a three-line inscription “No entry.” Many years ago, Lapps (or Sami, a small Finno-Ugric people) lived on this street; they kept about 200 reindeer, but then they sold them all to Lavozero. Former farm worker Mikhail, a short man over 60, whom we meet when he is walking his dog Taiga, tells me about this. Mikhail says that he saw the plagues of the Sami, but in his childhood they already lived in wooden houses. “There were also houses on the bank where the film was filmed. There’s nothing left,” he says sadly.
Mikhail, former electrician:
Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva Former farm worker Mikhail I was born in Teriberka. Now I’m retired, I need to rest sometime, otherwise some people struggle and struggle until they get old. I live with my wife in that three-story house. For the winter we go to Murmansk, but there you only go to the store. Pulls here. In winter we watch TV, not Channel One, of course, but what we like. And in the summer we go foraging for mushrooms and berries, and fishing again.
When the road gets swept up in winter, you can’t leave Teriberka for a week or two. They used to clean the road, but now they have stopped. But no one is starving, they don’t drop food on helicopters: I looked in the pantry and there’s food for you.
Previously, there was a border zone here and people were allowed in with special passes. And now the border guards are foolish, what is there to protect? The border is far away. It is also prohibited to catch crabs. What is prohibited? Full of crabs! There are so many of them that they scared away all the fish.
Leviathan is a good movie. Alexey Serebryakov is the right guy. I shook his hand, he was simple, no frills. After the film, there were more tourists. Some of us say, why are you coming, this is our land! Even Murmansk. But I don’t have such thoughts - we live in the same country.
Old school in Teriberka
Not far from the local cemetery there is an old three-story school with broken windows. You can get inside from both the main entrance and two spare ones. Kirill from Moscow says that he has already gone to school twice in a week, and once with local boys aged 10-13. Among the teenagers there was the most desperate one - he threw and broke everything, and in the biology classroom he split a model of the brain.
We enter the school from the back door. The inside smells of stagnant dust and there are wires hanging from the ceiling. The gym has no floor, but does have basketball hoops. Books, slides for filmstrips, and posters are scattered in the classrooms. There is graffiti on the wall: “I am a bohemian.” “It’s like I was in Pripyat,” says Kirill.
There are few children in Teriberka; many come here only for the holidays. They wander between playgrounds, ride on swings, hang on horizontal bars, and ride bicycles. “We do the best we can,” says a blond boy of 11-12 years old, who is fishing with a friend on the pier at the port. “Flounder is everywhere here, near the port you can go,” shows a fish the size of a hand, “and there,” he waves his hand towards the sea, “there!” - and spreads his arms as far as he can.
Frozen Chinese
A large orange bus stops near a store in old Teriberka and tourists get off. “Oh, the Chinese have arrived,” says the guy who is painting the wooden extension near the House of Culture.
When there is snow all around, snowboarders go to Teriberka, and kitesurfers go to Teriberka in the spring. Most tourists come in June-August, when the air warms up to 20 degrees and above. From September to December there is a decline. And then the Chinese come.
“The Chinese are hunting for the northern lights,” says sound engineer Igor, who works at the House of Culture. - They are offended if he is not there. They have a belief that if you conceive a child during the northern lights, then a great destiny awaits him.”
Barents Sea in winter
In winter, when the road to Teriberka was covered with snow, power and water were turned off in the village for a week, mobile communications were lost, and bank terminals stopped working, says Igor. In the old village they turned on the generator, but in the new one, he claims, for some reason they didn’t. “And here are the Chinese. They don’t have cash, they don’t give them loans - no one knows them. Some came up to me and said, “Take us away,” but how can I take them away? Someone fed them."
Igor, sound engineer at the House of Culture:
In winter, the road to the city was blocked 22 or 23 times. The snow is removed by auger rotors, but they are old, constantly breaking down, and no one wants to help. We then wrote an open letter, told how this problem could be solved, and offered to update the fleet of equipment. They distributed the letter to stores, and in one evening 200 people signed it in the new Teriberka, and another 30 in the old one. And that’s in one evening. And the next morning all the letters were gone. They say that the head of Teriberka herself took the letter from one store. We then complained to the prosecutor's office, and she made a representation to the governor.
On June 1, the head of the Kola region, Alexander Likholat, came to the village. He then said that snow is no longer relevant, why wave your fists after a fight. He refused to update the fleet of equipment, saying that there was no money. A new screw at the factory costs 6.2 million rubles. As soon as Likholat left, the road was closed again.
There are problems here. When I worked under a contract, I was not paid a salary for a year. I came to the administration and they told me: “There is no money, write to the prosecutor’s office.” I wrote, a week later they gave me the money. Then the administration was offended, saying why didn’t you come to us right away.
My girlfriend and I rented an apartment for 8,300 rubles, and then the owner kicked us out and rented us out to kiters for 45 thousand. He said that it was only for two months, and when the surfers moved on with their lives, he apologized very much. During the festival, one one-room apartment was rented here for 20 thousand for two days. The hostess said it out of the blue, and they agreed.
Teriberka in inscriptions
Many of us leave for Murmansk, St. Petersburg, where it is simpler, but here we have to fuss here and there, plow here and there. You can get a job as a security guard at a hydroelectric power station, but not everyone is hired; for example, if you drink, they definitely won’t hire you. After Leviathan, there are more people working with tourists.
I don't want to go anywhere. Those who say there is nothing to do here are lying. There's plenty to do. After the film, my life changed dramatically: before I did nothing, but now I communicate with such people!
Urbanists in Teriberka
In July, the third Arctic festival “Teriberka. New life". It was organized by the LavkaLavka farmer cooperative and the Bolshaya Zemlya Rural Development Fund. Back in 2015, one of the founders of LavkiLavka, Boris Akimov, said that he wanted to “breathe life” into the village and turn it into a “paradise.”
At the Teriberka festival. New life"
This is how urbanists see Teriberka
Three thousand people came to the festival. The organizers set up a campsite on the seashore (not far from the Zhiguli dump), set up two stages, invited artists, and organized several lectures. While some were talking about urbanism, others were riding boats on the sea and watching birds, others were watching circus performers, and others were swimming, squealing, in the icy water.
All that remains from the festival are the stands near the House of Culture. One published excerpts from the concept of the “Master Plan for the Teriberka Eco-Village”, which was prepared by urbanists from the USA, the Netherlands and Russia. They proposed clearing Lodeynoye, installing children's and playgrounds and sports equipment on the streets, organizing 25-45 places where you can relax or take shelter from bad weather, and building new village two-story houses.
The authors of the concept propose to divide Old Teriberka into two parts: the ethnoterritory and the territory of the dachas. On the ethno-territory, by the sea, build one-story houses, like the Pomors, and two-story boarding houses, similar in appearance to barracks, put up wood warehouses and antique telegraph poles. It is proposed to divide the second territory into land from 4 to 15 acres for dachas. Urbanists also propose creating a warning and evacuation system in case a hydroelectric power station breaks through.
Mayor of Teriberka: My dream has come true - we will have asphalt
Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva Head of the rural settlement of Teriberka Tatyana Trubilin Tatyana Trubilina headed Teriberka in 2013, and this September she will run for a second term. After the release of Leviathan, she criticized Andrei Zvyagintsev for showing “dirty, unwashed Russia” in his film. “The film crew did not see anything good that was happening in our village: what a wonderful House of Culture we have, a library equipped with all multimedia systems and a satellite dish. Neither the film studio nor the director approached us with a request for help in filming. But they left a lot of garbage behind,” Trubilina in January 2015.
Now she is sure that it is thanks to her that tourists go to Teriberka.
“If we, myself and maybe others, hadn’t expressed our opinion about the film, it would have gone unnoticed,” she says. — A lot of reporters from all over came to me, I even had it recorded. Such companies came, newspaper men, I had never even heard of such things before, I saw them for the first time in my life. Almost from Africa they came here and did interviews.”
After the release of Leviathan, the mayor believes, the lives of locals have not changed at all. “It doesn’t affect us in any way that festivals are held here. Muscovites are having fun, relaxing, but the population is still living,” she says.
At the same time, Tatyana Trubilina is sure that the urbanists are right and one day Teriberka will turn into a holiday village.
Tatyana Trubilina, head of Teriberka:
When we had a festival that year, I was also interviewed. I said that I have a dream that there will be asphalt here - in our rural settlement of Teriberka. You know, my dream has come true, we will have him. It is still very expensive to pave the 40 kilometers to Teriberka. But I think that by 2019 the issue will be resolved.
In 2015, we planned to organize a connection between Lodeyny and Teriberka. Even the Kola region provided us with a car. We put it in order and asked people 50 rubles for the trip. Why did you ask? To buy gasoline. After all, you have to go to something. But people refused, they said it was too expensive and they didn’t want it. We launched it, he literally went once. And no one else came. That’s why we canceled the flights, because the driver has to pay, and gasoline has to be bought, and we still have to go for gasoline. And our people are accustomed to not paying for anything.
Former mayor of Teriberka: In 5 years nothing will happen here
Before leaving Teriberka, we go to visit Tatyana Nereiko, who led the village from 2003 to 2007. While working as head, she launched a program to resettle residents from dilapidated houses. The village administration’s plans to build an asphalt road in Lodeynoye surprised her: “Why do we need a road in the village?! We need a normal road to Teriberka. And now we’re ruining our cars for 40 kilometers.”
Nereiko is one of those who call Teriberka “our land.” And she doesn’t like the fact that tourists come here at all. She does not agree with the festival organizers who declare the development of Teriberka. “Why resettle people to develop it? I think that if Teriberka is developing, it will be in the direction of private business. It’s for their own pockets, but definitely not for the benefit of the rural settlement,” she says. When I ask Nereiko what she sees Teriberka like in five years, she sighs: “Honestly, I don’t see it.”
Tatyana Nereyko, former head of Teriberka:
There is nowhere to work. And they are already accustomed to not working. Basically these are people leading, say, an antisocial lifestyle. Why do people from Murmansk come here to work? Yes, because locals work until the first salary or until the first ruble. And then they go on a drinking binge, that’s all. I manage some things here myself—there’s no cleaning lady to be found.
Even before Leviathan, we had enough sailors who fished in the sea and brought in income. But Leviathan, of course, brought a certain percentage of tourists.
Although this brought problems to the local residents. Firstly, prices in stores have increased. And now we bring food from Murmansk, we buy food for a week for 5-7 thousand, here these products would cost 10-12 thousand. I understand entrepreneurs, because there is a demand, but okay, we have a car, but what should a retired grandmother who lives alone do?
Secondly, this is a dump. Historically, we have a landfill, and those who come here point to it and take photographs. But, my dears, she has grown exponentially because of you. Thirdly, garbage in the tundra. That year the tundra burned five times. We always came to pick cloudberries, but then we arrived - everything was black, scorched earth.
Around Teriberka
In March-April, beluga whales and killer whales approach Teriberka and chase cod into the sea. Seen here once blue whale. Whales appear infrequently in the bay, but in the open sea they can be seen throughout the spring.
The main attraction of Teriberka is the waterfall. Any local will show you the way to it. The path to the waterfall passes by the weather station, along the seashore, where at high tide the waves crash against the rocks. Spread out at the waterfall big lake, in which green hills are reflected in calm weather.
Along the way you can see stone pyramids. These are seids - sacred stones of the Sami. It is unlikely that there are real waterfalls on the road to the waterfall - most likely, they were built by tourists, collecting stones from the tundra. However, here you can also find seids with “stone legs” - one huge stone lies on two or three smaller stones. It is unlikely that a tourist is capable of this.
You can also just walk across the tundra from hill to hill, from lake to lake. The colors of the tundra are striking, as if someone had deliberately turned up the brightness knob. On the seashore there is a clearing of snow-white dandelions, moss blooms on black stones, there is so much greenery all around that it gives your eyes a rest. And there is such silence that sometimes you can’t hear anything except the waves and the cry of seagulls. And in the hills even the seagulls fall silent.
Prices in Teriberka
Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva In one of the stores in Lodeynoye In the shop
- The cheapest vodka is 245 rubles
- Cabbage - 70 rubles
- Carrots - 85 rubles
- Beets - 65 rubles
- Small pizza in a bakery - 57 rubles
- Fresh white bread - 43 rubles
At the restaurant
- Ukha - 500 rubles
- Venison stew – 600 rubles
- Scallop in cheese - 600 rubles
- Crab meat - 750 rubles
- Scrambled eggs - 150 rubles
- French fries - 150 rubles
- Tea in a kettle - 350 rubles
- Coffee - 150 rubles
Housing
- Double room in the Ter Hotel in old Teriberka - from 3000 rubles with breakfast
- Double room in a hotel near the fish factory - 2500 rubles with breakfast
- Double room in the Normann hotel in old Teriberka - 2300 rubles
- Place in a bungalow in the tourist complex “Teribersky Coast” - 1800 rubles
- Hostel “Hold the Crab” in Lodeynoye – 1000 rubles
- Accommodation with locals - from 500 rubles
Services
- Boat trip with fishing for the whole day - from 3000 rubles per person, for 4 hours - 2500 rubles
- Ticket to the bathhouse - 110 rubles
I think everyone has heard about this village? After the film Leviathan, crowds of tourists poured into Teriberka and local residents are no longer happy with the dominance of visitors. Teriberka is a godforsaken place on the Kola Peninsula, 130 km from Murmansk. The population of the village is about 900 people. Residents are fleeing this place, but tourists are drawn to it.
And this beautiful place! You can’t even imagine how beautiful and atmospheric it is here. Old houses, incredible landscapes, broken boats, northern lights.
The hardest thing is to get to it. It is connected to civilization by a dirt road, which is difficult to drive in the summer and is constantly covered with snow in the winter.
I was very lucky with the weather, because... there had been no precipitation for several days, but even in such hothouse conditions I barely made it out of Teriberka. Do you know what it's like to skid on ice while climbing a mountain? :(
It won't be boring - sit back and enjoy watching.
And also - I will ride a cuttlefish!!!
2. I'll start in the morning. At the hostel (!!!) Margarita prepared potatoes with cod for breakfast. An incredibly tasty dish. I don't know why she doesn't work as a cook, but it's incredible. Yes, I eat normally!) 
3. In three words about the hostel. Everything is in a nautical theme. 
4. Kitchen right in the room. The hostel is super small - just one room and 4 beds. But everything is there and costs 500 rubles per night. 
5. View of Murmansk. 
6. Paid parking. 
7. The hostel is located in a former dorm and the general atmosphere is quite... mmm... colorful) 
8. Going out onto the street, on the way to the parking lot, you walk along giant snowdrifts. 
9. On the way to Teriberka, I had to fill up a canister with 92 benzine for cuttlefish, fill up the passenger with diesel and myself with cookies. 
10. The road to Teriberka begins with an asphalt surface. I drove up to 100 km/h, although I later regretted it - the road was covered with ice and it was very easy to fly away. As it turned out, he was playing with fire. After one turn, an SUV was parked and we had to urgently go around it and the car began to skid. It’s good that I have good driving experience and was able to straighten the car. It blew by. 
11. The light is unrealistically beautiful. And yes, the tundra began. 
12.V good weather the road looks beautiful and you can drive easily, but if the weather conditions deteriorate a little - that’s it, it’s impossible to drive. Cars get stuck right away, SUVs can drive, but not always. Everyone is waiting until the grader arrives. Recently, the technology is better and cleans the road more often, but before, people buried in the snow waited for several days.
In general, it is recommended to travel accompanied by a bus that goes to Teriberka in the evening and returns to Murmansk in the morning. 
13. I was driving on March 8 and there were a lot of cars parked along the roads. Who did whatever they did - some grilled kebabs, some rode snowmobiles, some went skiing. 
14.
15. Lots of strange poles along the route. Fence? 
16. Teriberka is considered a very cool spot among kiters and they ride here until May. They come from all over Russia. 
17. I really wanted to go for a ride. But trouble did not allow it over time, and the classes are not very humane. 
18. Not a single complaint - the working lion cub drags along! 
19. Snowy desert. 
20. And here comes Teriberka!
Moon during the day. 
21. It’s strange to see open water in those parts...I’m already used to the ice) 
22. Looks intriguing. I went closer. 
23.And here is the bus. 
23. The feeling of unreality does not leave for a second. 
24. Teriberka has everything! Wooden houses, old and new houses. Shop, school, hotel. There is even a kite school! 
25. Wooden boats are scattered. Is this normal at all? 
27. I looked at the old Teriberka, I’m going to the new one. 
28. The houses are beautiful, but it’s probably impossible to live in them. 
29. By the way, houses are up for eviction, so don’t be alarmed by bad conditions. People are moved either to newer 5th floors or to Kola. 
30. They look creepy. But for photographs it's perfect. 
31. Try to find a car after a snowfall. 
32. A lot of things (and people) are transported on sleds. They hook up to a snowmobile and ride between the old and new parts of the village. 
33. Dog. 
34. I really want to show more photos, but alas, they complain that there are too many( 
35. Sasha. 
36. And now the highlight of the program - cuttlefish! The device is built on the basis of the IZh motorcycle. You can ride on any snow. We loaded the boards and went to see the Barents Sea. 
37. More buses. By the way, the school is plastered and looks much more decent than ordinary houses.
Galya, a former resident of the village, told how, while studying at school, she would go to pick up smaller schoolchildren, tie them to her with a rope and walk in single file to school. The wind was very strong and the children were blown away. 
38. Let's go to the coast of the Barents Sea. 
39. Photographed the mountains. 
40. Touched the water. 
42. “The controls are too difficult, I won’t let you steer. Go take a photo,” said Pavlik. 
43. Pavlik is a 14 year old guy who lives alone in Teriberka. It gets its own food and knows how to repair cuttlefish. 
44. This is how boards were transported. 
45. Beauty! 
46. We return back to Teriberka. 
47. Pavlik showed his former room in the already occupied house. 
48. Signboard at the entrance. 
49. Took a photo of Pavlik. 
50. I couldn’t find any men’s shoes( 
52. Quite creepy. 
53. The best thing is that MegaFon has excellent 3G in Teriberka. I was able to chat on FaceTime and did an online broadcast. It’s good when there is a lot of Internet and there is a connection.
MegaFon has the best coverage in the Murmansk region and I am glad that it is possible to use modern capabilities even in such remote places. 
54. I had an idea - to stay, but the sky did not plan to show the northern lights and decided to go home so as not to waste time.
The road is hard and slippery. Very slippery! On the way up the mountain, the car skidded and we had to go down to pick up speed and force the mountain.
In some places the road began to be swept up and I was guided by the posts along the road.
Pay attention to the handles of snow - there is no precipitation, but streams sweep the road before your eyes. 
55. I was afraid that it would snow more heavily - then I could have stayed in the car for a long time. But slowly and surely, he crawled towards the house. I drove part of the way at a speed of 30-40 km/h. Slower - the wheels slip, faster - the car skids.
Teriberka is a wonderful place, you should definitely see it. 
Expenses:
Shop - 129 rub.
Another store 135 rub.
Refueling - 1511 rub.
Breakfast - 200 rub.
Hostel - 500 rub.
Today - 2475 rub.
Total - 19488 rub.
Internet spent:
Today - tomorrow I will return to maintaining statistics.
Total - 3.14 GB.
Steps:
today - 7764
total - 90625.
Mileage:
Today - 297 km, 5.4 consumption, 37 avg. speed.
Total - 3190 km, 4.6 consumption, 49 avg. speed.
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In touch with you thanks to the company "
On this trip, I definitely wanted to get to the village of Teriberka, which is located 130 km from Murmansk. This is the only road to the Arctic Ocean in Russia that can be reached without any checkpoints by car or public transport. At first I took these photos purely for myself, but during the trip I received several questions from readers about the quality of the surface and decided to devote a separate post to this road. But it’s really worth it, in general, look.
The road to Teriberka stretches east from Murmansk past the turn towards Severomorsk, a closed military city that is home to the Northern Fleet of the Navy, including nuclear submarines. There is an asphalt road for 90 km to the next fork in the village of Tumanny.
It’s worth warning right away that there are no shops or gas stations along the entire route from Murmansk to Teriberka, so when leaving the hero city, fill up your tank full
Gradually, the road begins to deteriorate and collapse in places, and our speed of movement decreases. In some places our Pradik was jumping up and down like on a springboard, I’m afraid to imagine how it would be possible to fly up here in a passenger car. Military Kamaz trucks constantly drove to the meeting, apparently coming from training exercises.
The bushes gradually disappeared, and vast expanses of rocky tundra opened up to our eyes. It looks amazing in the fall colors!
These fancy wooden structures are snow guards that were installed in places where snow drifts most often occurred. In the background is a power transmission tower structure that I saw for the first time. The places here are swampy, so they are installed on piles and pulled down with cables.
42 kilometers before Teriberka, the asphalt ends and the furious gravel road begins. A grader, even over such a short distance, can shake the soul out of you. The average speed even on Pradika was about 30-40 km per hour.
Reflective plastic posts are installed along the edges of the road, which make it easier to identify the road at night or in winter during a snowstorm.
It would be a sin not to take a photo of the team with the car against the backdrop of such nature and unusual places..
The air here is pristinely clean, and the endless wavy surface is covered with mosses of two colors and hundreds of lakes, which are located at different altitudes.
Around every turn there is a better view than before.
There are hundreds of cairns on one of the hills. We have already seen this near the border of the Arctic Circle. Most likely, another place of power.
Having not been repaired for many years, the snow retainers hardly help anymore, and in winter, during heavy snowfalls and winds, the road drifts, and Teriberka becomes cut off from civilization. Until the road is dug up again, food is brought to the village by helicopter.
A huge lake appeared ahead, stretching for tens of kilometers; at first there was a feeling that it was the Teriberk Bay of the Barents Sea, but it turned out that it was just a reservoir. On the Teriberka River there is a cascade of three hydroelectric power stations, which we also passed.
The last 5 km the road is fantastic and the most picturesque. And here are a couple more hills...
And the resorts of the Barents Sea are waiting for you :)
In the next post I will show Teriberka itself and tell you about it in detail.
It so happened that we ended up in the village of Teriberka even before the release of Zvyagintsev’s film on the big screen. So much the better - the impressions brought from the trip were unbiased and objective.
Leviathan sleeps here.
Somewhere here, 18 kilometers before the village, I recently got stuck in the snow Sergey Dolya
. We were luckier and we passed this section at cruising speed, at the limit of tire adhesion to the packed snow.
True, about the cities of Kirovsk and Monchegorsk, where the famous film was also filmed, Seryozha still managed to make an excellent post, so here is only one photo from the city near the mountain:
Checkin at the pier.
The fish factory is the only operating enterprise in Teriberka. We settled in his hostel.
This is perhaps the nicest and neatest place where you can spend the night in the village.
Don’t judge by the numerous depressing articles about Teriberka: there is civilization here too.
Cheerful contrasting details in the interior are designed to brighten up the neighborhood with the old seaport.
Even from simple paper blinds here, like from napkins in provincial restaurants, they try to squeeze the positive out of them.
Open hatches do not bother anyone; almost no one walks here.
For a second, let's find ourselves in a frame from the film and look around.
Boat parking numbers are like memorial plaques.
In fact, private boats are simply hidden for the winter in wooden stalls, or, in most cases, spend the winter offshore with their bellies up.
There is a grocery store at the entrance to the fishery. There is also positive creativity here.
In contrast, there is a still from the film, filled with piercing hopelessness, filmed in the same place.
Former cultural center.
The main problem with old buildings echoes the plot of the film: each such building has a private owner, and the demolition of junk that spoils the landscape can lead to legal proceedings.
Many residents of the once large fishing village are in search of better life They abandoned their property, gaping with broken window sockets and holes in the right side.
Now, unwanted private property is being torn apart by the piercing winds from the Arctic Ocean.
And again a still from the film:
We are approaching the village of Lodeynoye, which is called “New Teriberka” here.
The part of the village that is collapsing is post-war construction.
The rest are five-story panel buildings from the seventies, built to replace the already collapsing wooden two-story buildings.
With the collapse of the Union, construction stopped.
Local residents say that the boiler house, built in the eighties, breaks down once a year and the entire village is left without heating, saving itself with potbelly stoves. Water in the tap is also a gift, since dilapidated pipes burst.
The only new building here is a school. Opposite it is a local boutique.
But this is an old school building in another part of the village - “Old Teriberka”.
Several years ago it was bought by an entrepreneur who had never been seen here for a hotel.
And yet, there is life here.
Despite everything.
Behind the “old Teriberka” begins a wide, by local standards, cosmic road, cut right through twenty-meter granite rocks.
Judging by the sign, in 2009 Gazprom decided to build an oil refinery here on the coast, receiving raw materials from the Shtokman field, but the project was soon declared unprofitable and construction was frozen in 2011. Now the wide highway, perhaps not rolled up with asphalt, leads for 10 kilometers and breaks off there, resting on a rock.
The Kola Peninsula is a mecca for fans of harsh polar nature. This is where real, indescribable beauty begins.
The views are crazy.
Of course, spending the night in a tent in winter was not part of our plans. This is the setting for the final episode of "". Although, it is in this picture that all the thrill and romance of a trip to the Arctic Circle is contained.
At the beginning of December, the daylight hours above the Arctic Circle are very short, from about 11 to 14, and the sun does not even appear over the horizon. For example, it’s “dawn”, then it starts to get dark again (turn on HD).
Director Ilya Povolotsky is imbued with the morning landscape and meditates. I won’t lie, while filming the time-lapse, I undoubtedly joined.
Small streams, gathering into waterfalls, wash iron out of granite rock, because of this, ice stoloctites shimmer with completely unexpected colors - from emerald green to reddish-violet.
Harsh granite rocks are everywhere here, along the entire coast, and snow falls here even in June. About nothing agriculture in such a climate there is no question.
The rescue ship is the only flag reminiscent of civilization around. Yes, we had no plans to throw ourselves off a cliff.
Not even a couple of hours have passed before it begins to get dark. It is worth resting in the hotel and gaining strength for the evening, because at night there will be something to see.
At about one in the morning, one of the cameramen of the film crew flew into the hotel with the words “It has begun!”, grabbed the camera and ran away. Everyone rushed out into the street.
And together they got stuck on perhaps the most beautiful natural special effect.
For contrast, the picture is just 140 kilometers from Teriberka, from Murmansk, which we stopped at on the way back. About him - in the next post, subscribe !
And here is the map. It will help those who follow in our footsteps to the shores of the Barents Sea to navigate the area. Not so much in search of ruin and desolation, but in anticipation of meeting the magnificent and powerful pristine nature.
Yes, I'm not saying goodbye!
By the way, it’s especially beautiful here in the summer:
Kola Peninsula. Teriberka from cr2
Abandoned school in Teriberka from cr2
Ship cemetery in Teriberka from