Do-it-yourself bullet catcher for pneumatics: making bullets and targets. Falling target for air rifle shooting Making targets for pneumatics

If you want to get into sports shooting or just buy pneumatic guns for outdoor shooting, it will be useful for you to know what targets exist. Let's consider targets both for competitions and for “home” use, which are easy to make with your own hands. Let's start with the simplest and most famous:

They have different versions depending on the weapon and range. So, for example, weapons at a range of 10, 25 or 50 meters will have a different number and size of concentric circles. They can be made in the form of one (pistols), several (rifles) circles, or in the form of animals with different versions of the target.

Photos of paper targets:

Paper target for pistol Paper target for rifle Moving paper target

Requirements

According to the specifications of the International Shooting Sports Federation, targets must be made on a thick base (paper) of white color. If they are to be used in competitions, all products must be of the same edition.

Targets used for training and directly for scoring shots must be different: the former have a black stripe in the upper right corner (it must be visible from the shooting position).

Such targets can be easily printed on a printer in A4 format.

Air rifle at 10 meters

At a distance of 10 meters, they shoot at targets that have special requirements for the size of the circles. Dimensions are given starting from the center. Allowable error is 0.1mm.

Air pistol at a distance of 10 meters

At a distance of 10 meters, they shoot at a target that is significantly larger in size compared to a rifle.

Moving target for 10 meter air rifle

This target is different from the previous ones. A 15.5 mm aiming dot is used and is located between two targets for left and right direction of movement. Their dimensions are the same as for a stationary target, but with the addition of one 50.5 mm circle.

How to make an air rifle with your own hands? From the available tools that can always be found on the farm: a bottle, a pump, wooden blocks.

Review of air rifles for hunting. Comparison of characteristics and hunting power of certain models.

Mechanical targets

Mainly used in shooting ranges or competitions. They have a number of advantages over paper ones, for example, it is easier to notice a hit, since the affected part will fall or wobble. This could be a simple axis, with a target attached to it, which simply falls when hit.

Video shows shooting at mechanical targets with pneumatics

With bullet catcher

This is a small container that is located directly behind the target. It helps avoid unnecessary debris and also saves the wall if shooting is carried out indoors.

For biathlon

This is a modernized model of mechanical targets. It has two interesting features:

• The front solid panel has five holes with a diameter of 45.5 mm; when hit, they are closed with a small lid;
• When hit, a sensor is triggered, which sends a signal to the computer. Thus, the athlete always knows whether he hit or not.

For dueling shooting

This type of target is quite diverse. This can be a growth target, a circle with a diameter of 45.5 mm and other types. However, they all must meet certain requirements: be positioned symmetrically for both participants and, when hit, fold, fall, or rotate 90 degrees (perpendicular to the shooter).

Electromechanical

There are several types:

• Actually the biathlon target which is described above.
• Shooting ranges often use paper targets that are attached to a cable. When shooting is completed, the target is pulled up for viewing by simply pressing a button. And, in the same way, they move away and set the required distance.
• Folding or rotating targets. In the first case, these are targets that rise after a certain command and fall down automatically after being hit. In the second case, these are targets that turn 90 degrees (edge-on) after being hit.

Skeet targets

Used for dynamic shooting. They are made of ceramic and have a diameter of 110 mm, a height of 25 mm and a weight of 105 g. They have an even weight distribution, which has a positive effect on the trajectory. They are usually painted orange.

Have you ever seen portable boxes at shooting ranges that house multiple targets? In many Soviet schools, such boxes were used for training shooting on the subject of life safety. Moreover, this design shows itself exclusively from the best side. So why not try to make something similar at home, while making modern adjustments to make the process of creating a shooting range even simpler. In the following sections you will find detailed instructions for making such a box, as well as a list of materials needed for the work.

What is required for production

Before you begin the process of making a shooting range, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools so that during the process you do not have to be distracted for another trip to the hardware store or a visit to your neighbor for a drill. Of course, it is worth first of all considering the possibility of using what is already available on the farm, so that production costs are minimal. However, ideally it is recommended to acquire the following materials:

• metal sheets (thickness of at least 5 millimeters) for welding the box;
• a pair of door awnings to make the shooting range openable and more compact;
• metal rods for fixing the box (something like a “stick” under the hood);
• geotextiles or foam to catch bullets and prevent ricochet;
• primer paint to prevent rust.

You can also use wood instead of metal - a simpler, but not the most durable material. You can even use some old chest that is no longer used by anyone (for example, from a mechanical sewing machine from the USSR). However, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the shooting range must be at least 1 meter wide, 80 centimeters high, and 50 centimeters deep. It is on the basis of such indicators that it is worth making a shooting range.

As for the tools that may be needed during the work process, they are entirely related to the list of materials. For example, to process metal parts you will definitely need welding, electrodes, a grinder and discs. The wood will have to be processed with a jigsaw, and then cut using a hacksaw or circular saw. The only recommendation is not to use cheap fastening options if you don’t have any tools. It’s better to get a self-tapping screw and connect the boards with screws than to pound nails with a hammer.

Step-by-step execution

As soon as the preparatory procedures are completed, we proceed to the construction work. If you don’t know where to start, then just follow the step-by-step algorithm of actions left below:

Step 1 - making a box

First you need to weld a large box in which the foam and targets will be located. We cut two sheets of metal measuring 100 by 50 cm, as well as two sheets of 80 by 50 cm. After this, we weld the resulting elements using electrodes. It is recommended to carefully process the seams formed during the process with a grinder so that the shooting range looks more even. All that remains is to weld the wall, which has dimensions of 100 by 80 centimeters.

Step 2 - making the lid

To prepare the box lid, you first need to make a frame. It is best to use a slightly denser metal for this purpose, but in the absence of such, “five” will do. The dimensions of the parts are as follows: two 80 by 10 cm and two 100 by 10 cm. After welding, we cut out the cover itself (100 by 80) and connect it to the body in the same way.

Step 3 – fastening and painting

The main part of the work is completed, so all that remains is to connect the two elements using door hinges. After that, take a can of primer paint and thoroughly paint the box (including the inside). Let the shooting range dry for 12 hours. During this time, you can prepare a piece of geotextile or foam that serves as a bullet catcher. Place the soft material inside and you're done!

Several important points to consider when making a wooden box.

What you need

You don't have to spend much time preparing to make falling targets. All you have to do is dig around your house and find a few old cardboard boxes. Juice or milk containers are ideal because they have optimal dimensions and are easy to process. You will also have to take care of the stands on which the targets are mounted. In general, the following materials will be required:

• cardboard boxes - the bigger the better;
• wooden or metal pegs for driving into the ground;
• several pieces of chipboard or thick board;
• wire or nails to connect the board to the peg.

The list of tools that may be needed for manufacturing will also not be difficult for most people, since everything necessary is usually available on the household:

• nails and a hammer - will be needed to make the support;
• scissors – necessary for cutting cardboard;
• PVA glue or electrical tape will be needed to connect the parts.

Our main task during the manufacture of the target is to make it as dense as possible. In this case, it is necessary to focus on the power of the “air” so as not to waste too much material. Ideally, the rifle should penetrate 80% to 90% of the cardboard.
If you make the target thinner, the bullet will definitely jump out of it. A bullet catcher that is too thick is only relevant if the rifle penetrates up to 40% of the cardboard - you can simply turn the target over.

Step-by-step execution

Let's start making bullet catcher targets from cardboard. As in the case of the shooting range, we leave you with a small instruction that will allow you to make the products of the highest quality:

Step 1 – cut out the parts from cardboard

If milk or juice boxes are used, then simply remove the lid so that more bullet-repellent material can be placed inside. However, the thickness of such boxes is not always enough to hold a ballistic projectile (especially if boxes with a volume of less than 1 liter are used). So it would be better to make the box yourself by gluing it together from pieces of cardboard. To do this, you will need to cut out 2 parts with dimensions of 15 by 8 centimeters (sides), and two 15 by 10 centimeters (back), and one 10 by 8 centimeters (bottom).

Step 2 - glue the box

Once all the necessary material has been cut into pieces, you need to glue the parts together, thereby creating a box. For this purpose, you can use either regular PVA glue or electrical tape. Inside such a box, it is necessary to place several more pieces of cardboard so that they fit as closely as possible to each other. If in the end the bullet will pierce the back wall of such targets, then it is necessary to increase its dimensions in order to accommodate more cardboard. You can place a small piece of red electrical tape on the front of the box or draw a circle with a felt-tip pen to make it easier to aim at the former packaging.

Step 3 - making stands

Placing targets anywhere is not a good idea. The boxes are called drop catchers because they must be raised after each shot. So we take a wooden peg in our hands and connect it to a piece of plywood, chipboard or any flat piece that can support the weight of the box. The height of such a stand depends on the position from which the shooting is intended. If standing, then 1.5 meters should be enough. Well, for prone shooting 40 centimeters is enough.

As soon as everything is ready, we place the targets on the stands and start shooting. The advantage of such catching targets is the ease of their manufacture, but the disadvantage is that they are inconvenient to use in windy weather. However, in fairness, it is worth noting that during windy conditions it is generally not recommended to use pneumatics, since even the slightest air movement deflects the bullet from the given course.

How to make targets

Now it’s time to talk about how you can make targets of various types at home. Some of them are suitable for placement in a home shooting range, others require a machine to launch them into the air or outside help. Be that as it may, almost anything can be made from scrap materials. You will find evidence of this in the following sections.

Paper targets

It’s worth starting with the simplest option, which does not require any special expenses and is perfect for training shooting. To make a paper target, just copy this picture and then print it on a piece of A4 paper using a printer:

The number of copies you can make with a laser copier is limited only by the amount of paper you have. However, if you do not have the opportunity to use a printer, you can draw the targets yourself. To do this, you must follow the instructions:

1. Take a piece of paper and mark a point in it exactly in the middle.
2. Apply a ruler and measure 10 centimeters from the point.
3. We place the needle of the compass in the middle of the paper, and the rod 10 cm from it.
4. Slowly draw a straight line.
5. We measure 9 centimeters from the center and repeat the procedure.
6. We repeat the steps until the target is completed.

After applying the markings, it is recommended to place the numbers in each division, and then paint over the last four with a marker. The ten can be made red or left white for easier shooting. These targets are usually placed on a portable shooting range or wooden board. Fastening is carried out using tape or buttons.

A more complex version of targets that will require little investment. The whole difficulty of making them lies in finding the mechanism itself that would return the figure to its original position after the shot. However, furniture hinges, which you can remove from an old cabinet or sideboard or try to find in a furniture store, will work well as such mechanics. Here are some instructions for making such targets:

1. We cut a block from the board with dimensions of 100 by 10 by 5 centimeters.
2. We attach a small sheet to the block so that an angle is formed.
3. Using screws, we attach the hinge mechanism to the block.
4. We attach the iron lid to the metal and wrap it with colored electrical tape.
5. In the middle we draw a red circle for aiming.

After hitting such a target, a mechanism will work that will throw it back. After a few seconds (depending on the diameter of the bearings), the target will return to its place and you can shoot at it again. If it turns out that the power of the rifle is not enough for the bullet to send the hinge down, then it is worth reducing the mass of the target by replacing the metal caps with plastic ones. Such a target can be mounted on a hand-held shooting range or placed on wooden stands outdoors. The advantage of this design is that it does not require constant adjustments, like the same bullet catcher, and the shooter will always understand whether he hit the target (unlike a piece of paper that he will have to approach).

If you couldn’t find hinges, you can try placing regular canopies and magnets. However, this option is only suitable for powerful air weapons, since practice shows that either the rifle’s energy is not enough to cover the target, or the magnet cannot lift it due to lack of power.

If you are the proud owner of a shotgun, then you may need a completely different type of target than mechanical or paper. Typically, shot shooting is carried out at plastic plates, which are released by a special mechanism. However, such devices are quite expensive, so it is worth considering the possibility of creating clay targets at home. Here are the instructions to follow:

1. We dilute clay with water.
2. We fashion a flat plate.
3. Mix sand with dry paint (1:1).
4. Pour the mixture into a plate.
5. We make a clay lid.
6. We send the plate to the oven for hardening.

To launch such a plate, you will need to ask for help from one of your friends or relatives. The beauty of such a target is that it shatters into pieces when a shot hits, but rarely breaks if it lands on the ground. Well, thanks to the colored sand inside, the shot will look really impressive. As for the ergonomic qualities of the plate, they directly depend on how smooth the edges are and how much sand is inside.

It is also worth considering the possibility of making plates from a more expensive material - coal sand of varying fragility. To process it at home, you will need to have a forge or a stone oven, the flame temperature of which reaches 350 degrees Celsius. The resulting “glass” is cast into special molds, which are then filled with colored powder and secured with glue. It is more difficult to make such plates, but they look no worse than professional ones, and also perform much better in flight.

As you can see, making a shooting range at home is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. The most important thing is to be patient and properly prepare for the creative process. Often, you can create a high-quality design with targets convenient for shooting from scrap materials and using simple tools. However, if you want to do something more professional, don't be afraid to experiment. It is quite possible that you will be able to come up with your own technology, which is not described on any site.

Late autumn, heading towards winter,
It gets dark early and the evening is longer,
I'll think about shooting,
20 meters, or more precisely...

“It seems like last Friday” (c) the thought was spinning about shooting an air rifle with optics at 25m
and about targets suitable for this occasion.
The caliber does not matter, since we are only talking about a hit, so we will write it down - 4.5mm.
But the presence of optics is important, since only with it can a rifle fully reveal its potential.

Why exactly 25 meters?

Firstly, because this distance is quite interesting from the point of view of the accuracy of the arrow-rifle-bullet complex;
Secondly, theoretically, it is possible to hit a “bullet into a bullet”; of course, this is a simple expression, not a literal one, and yet a target of 8-10mm in size can be successfully hit from a fairly accurate rifle under appropriate conditions;
Thirdly, this distance is available, although in natural environmental conditions, that is, gusty winds, rain, etc. sometimes occur.

Of course, hitting a target with a diameter of 8mm is not very easy, and of course not from a standing position (we are talking about ordinary users, not advanced athletes), but let’s say while sitting and probably from a rest position, at least the elbow to the knee.
On the other hand, practice shows that with a good rifle, for example, an accurate PSP or PPP (Walter LGV, Vayrauhi 85, 95, 98 and others, Arms, Diana (though I didn’t own them, but I think they can handle it, etc.) relatively confidently knock down even toothpicks (!) from the considered distance.

Naturally, a confident hit is not every time, but purposefully, and from a stop from the PSP it is much more confident.

How is this possible? The diameter of the toothpick is only 2-2.5mm.
Fantastic?
Boasting?
Achtung?

No, it's simple:
- to knock down a toothpick, it is enough to simply hit it well, i.e., covering the contour of the toothpick by 0.5 or 1 mm with a bullet is absolutely enough to defeat it.
And this is already a corridor of hits: 2mm + 4.5mm on the right + 4.5mm on the left - the overlap size on each side is 1mm = 9mm, which is what needed to be proven - nothing supernatural.
It looks like things are the same with the thread on which the load is suspended - to break it you need a corridor of about 6-7mm.

You can safely designate a target at 25m 8-10mm in diameter (shooting from a rest) and a larger size if we shoot standing (well, everyone has their own size here

If the target is extended, say an AA or AAA battery (you know about ecology, if that’s the case), then it’s easier to hit it, although it’s still more interesting to shoot at the end.

For a paper target, sometimes the best target is the hole from the previous shot; it can be seen through optics even at 4x or higher. The next hit allows you to identify where the deviation went.

I'm talking, of course, about successful shots.
Breaks and mistakes are always present for everyone, it’s a common thing:
- “Damn, I missed,” “that damn wind...”, “it fell, the plateau is over, I just took aim...”, “but the bullets are wrong,” “today is not my day, 100 poods,” “what Well, I had such a hearty breakfast that my stomach makes it difficult to breathe...", "my heart, damn it, is like a hammer - the barrel is shaking"..., "no, that's right - I need to adjust the trigger,... make a chamfer... take away the bullets. .. etc." - sometimes this goodness is enough

Well, we’ve decided - the size of an interesting target at 25m for shooting from an air rifle with optics can be designated as 8-10mm.

Let all other conditions for shooting be present and comfortable (time, place, opportunity, lighting, bullet catcher, absence of rebound, fire safety, etc.), and let there be no nosers or no interference.

Oh yes, yes.
I forgot about technical accuracy.
Well, of course.
How about...
I won’t focus on the twist, heap speeds, barrels, matrix number and year of manufacture of the JSB - I’m not strong...
A lot has been written about this on the forum, and copies have been broken there, and more will be broken (although everyone has certain conclusions)

Let's estimate the flight time at twenty-five meters:
- at a speed of 120ms, the bullet will arrive in 0.2 seconds;
- by 190ms in 0.13sec;
- at 260ms in 0.096s;
- at 300ms in 0.08s

Probably, over such a short segment and distance, the bullet simply will not have time to seriously deviate or lose stabilization due to the wrong twist, the wrong manufacturing matrix, etc.

On the one hand, this means that the 25m is quite loyal to the accuracy of rifles, which is good for the popularity and entertainment of shooting;
on the other hand, this means that the requirement for the shooter’s skills and abilities comes first, which is what we need

Tremor in the muscles, excitement, the desire to hit the target at all costs, haste, the prolongation of the shot (well, shoot already, at least somewhere), incorrect trigger handling (we pull the hook), the desire to catch the target with a gun, strong parallax of the optical sight (maybe compensated by the monotonous application to the cheek of the stock), incorrect breathing, unstable stance/firing position, etc. have a big impact on the final result.

The technical serviceability of the rifle is also important.
Risk factors such as:
- obvious defects in design/assembly;
- low compression, grater in the barrel;
- rapid fire, quickness;
- incorrect iron insert in the stock,
- a hard step of descent, its heaviness, indistinctness;
- uncompensated play in the structure;
- frequency imbalance of the spring system (wrapped)
- steps in the barrel bore at the exit chamfer;
- lead plaques in the rifling of the barrel (dirty and long-uncleaned barrel, it has been re-leaded for new bullets)
and other horror films...
we just assume they are missing
(I’ll leave this slippery topic for discussion to specialists).

Let's say the rifle is fine.
Great, it's time to shoot - "Your word, Comrade Weirauch/Arms/Diana/..."

External environmental parameters - humidity, temperature, rain, wind, insects, grass stems, bullet flight over water, mountainous terrain/shooting with elevation changes, etc...
We consider them ideal, or we ignore their presence (because we cannot change them).

There is also an opinion that accuracy at 25 meters is not an indicator at all, not...
Yes, 50m, but 100m is better!
(and further ascending).

Like in the climbers' song:
- “Your vaunted Caucasus is not an abode of miracles,
and the boulevard where dudes walk,
it's a matter of approaching an untouched forest
the impregnable chain of the Himalayas..."
Yeah...

All this has meaning and significance, but!
Let's leave these arguments aside, just talk for 25
meters, especially since the leading role of the shooter is already clear.

(I believe, however, that if the rifle is accurate at 25, then as long as there is enough stabilization of the bullet (without taking into account wind drift), it will hit sufficiently and stably, even along a mortar trajectory, which has been proven on the forum more than once)

So
At what
fire
at twenty-five?

I propose to consider options for targets and volumetric targets, in today's way - in 3D format.

Every shooter has his favorite sighting targets. If you don’t have one yet, it means it will appear soon. The choice of target often reflects the shooter's interests or indicates how he would like to benefit from his hobby. Shooters who prefer benchrest shooting, in other words shooting from a machine using a rifle, will choose targets for shooting that have the exact magnification indicated - this will allow them to aim easier.

Shooters who prefer long ranges will probably choose a steel target. And people who shoot pistols will prefer bullseye or silhouette targets. Young shooters who have watched enough videos on the YouTube video hosting site will probably start shooting randomly at two-liter bottles or fresh fruit. The choice of target speaks not only about what kind of weapon a person has, but also about what tasks he sets for himself.

But all shooters will definitely agree that it is best to use as many different targets as possible. Therefore, when you go shooting, take with you a lot of different targets and set them up at different distances. You can even create your own “fire order” by shooting at multiple targets in a specific sequence.

It is very important to use as many different types of targets as possible. This will help you achieve better results in the type of shooting you prefer and improve your overall skills. Additionally, for most people, using new goals is a good way to “spice up” your feelings. Below we will talk about ten types of targets that every shooter should try.

Top 10 best sighting targets:

1. Clay plates for clay pigeon shooting

These are perhaps the most famous targets of all time. Most people who have ever held a gun have probably shot clay pigeons. If you are a beginner and do not yet have the necessary skills, we recommend reading.

Meanwhile, these inexpensive and easily accessible targets are suitable not only for sporting rifle shooting. If such a clay pigeon is placed on a hill at your local shooting range, it will be clearly visible and you can shoot it with a rifle from a distance of over 90 meters. From a long distance it is not so easy to hit, but if you hit the target, you will immediately understand it.

Skeet shooting is not only an excellent “flying” target; They also make excellent stationary targets for rifle and handgun shooting.

The red-bordered image is an excellent multi-purpose rifle target. Its basic format is familiar to every rifle shooter, as it is often used in training. In its center there is a large target, and in the corners there are four additional small targets for more accurate shooting. The paper is lined into a grid with inch cells, which makes it easy to sight in and conduct a group competition. These types of targets are also great for friendly competition off the range; they will help you and your friends determine the best shooter.

3. Tumbler target

There is no sound more pleasing to a shooter's ear than the sound of lead slamming against steel at high speed. When it comes to long distances, you first see that you hit the target, and then you hear that long-awaited sound. A typical metal target designed for .22 LR (Rimfire) guns contains a spring that resets the steel diamond after each shot. Steel targets for .22 gauge are inexpensive, costing about the same as a whole box of disposable targets. Affordability allows them to be used for simultaneous shooting at many targets in a certain order. And since they automatically reset themselves, you won't have to run back and forth every time to set up a new target.

These bowling pin-themed targets are the most versatile on our list. They are made from DuraSeal material and allow the use of weapons from 17 caliber HMR (rimfire rimfire) to 50 caliber BMG (large caliber NATO military cartridge), providing the shooter with versatile capabilities. The pin shape is the most popular design. This target will recover from almost any position. It doesn't matter how many times you shoot this tough nut: it will immediately return to its original state. The pin can be added as a fun target for shooting at different targets at the same time. The shapes and sizes of such targets come in a wide variety. DuraSeal is also available in spinning targets that can be used in addition to regular metal spinning targets.

This target returns to its original position no matter how much you shoot at it.

These targets are very common. And, believe it or not, they sparked a zombie craze that swept through the shooting community. These images will amuse you if you replace your usual targets with them. Plus, they allow you to shoot in any style you want - whether you're just practicing, or if you're practicing double headshots on zombies, imagining yourself as a hero from your favorite horror series. Shooting at zombie targets will spice up your regular training. Zombie targets can also be purchased in VisiColor; they have multi-colored rings that make it easier to hit.

Zombie targets are a fun alternative to regular paper targets.

Rotating targets allow you to practice shooting without having to run around the range. You only need to set up the rotating target once (suitable for both .22 LR and centerfire pistols) and you can practice as much as you like. At the same time, you will clearly see and hear whether you hit it or not. Every time you hit the bull's eye and the target turns over and sounds, you will experience a feeling of satisfaction that is incomparable. This is especially true for young shooters who are just beginning to improve their abilities. With the help of such a target, you can hone your skills over a long time. You can also combine shooting at this target with shooting at a tumbler target.

When shooting at metal rotating gong targets, a person immediately sees and hears whether he has hit the target.

Although these targets are designed specifically for hunters, they are also suitable for other shooters looking to change up their target practice and improve their skills. Such drawings are recommended for those who would like to take part in hunting: before going into the forest, it is better to practice using such targets. Most of these images show the vital organs of animals, and the person can decide where to shoot. In addition, this target can be used to zero in your rifle before going hunting.

Training with these targets can serve as excellent practice for those planning to go hunting.

This is a classic target for shotgun owners, and, along with clay pigeons, is one of the most famous targets in the shooting sport. It is used in law enforcement agencies for training and passing standards. The ovals on this target allow the shooter to tally his scores and understand how much he is improving. Meanwhile, these ovals are not like the rings of a round bull's-eye target. If you are a serious handgun shooter, you are probably familiar with this target. The silhouette will benefit you in many ways and can be used for training in many shooting disciplines.

The classic silhouette target is an excellent training device.

Our list wouldn't be complete without mentioning this target. The round target with a bullseye is familiar to everyone - it is one of the most ancient and simplest. A round target is the easiest way to test your shooting skills at any distance. Of course, there are many other, more “sophisticated” targets, but the round one with a bull’s-eye is cheap and versatile: it is produced in various sizes for different shooting disciplines and different distances. This goal is best suited for competitions with friends and family. If you regularly train with a round target, you will achieve results that you can brag about to others.

The round target is simple but effective and suitable for many purposes.

This stand isn't exactly a target, but it would be nice to have. Target boards at local shooting ranges are often in such poor condition that they cannot be restored. We've all had the experience of arriving at the range to find that the target board is covered in bullet holes, or that someone has riddled the paper targets to such an extent that there is no living space left on them. It’s even worse when you arrive at the shooting range and see that there are no free targets at all. With a stand, you will never find yourself in this situation or waste valuable time on the range trying to set up a broken 2x4 that will fall again after the first few shots.

The target stand is good for shooting on private property or at a shooting range when there are no free targets.

One day I decided to buy an air rifle so that I could shoot it myself and introduce my son to it. Like in the distant 60-80s, everyone was “Voroshilov Riflemen” and certainly ready for work and defense with “GTO” badges.

I bought a rifle and bullets and paper targets. In the garage, I attached a target to the door and shot. The targets were quickly shot off, and the bullets scattered in all directions. It immediately became clear that this activity had to be made safe and that a bullet catcher was required for shooting.

The bullet catcher itself was easy for me. I simply filled a metal box left to me from my grandfather with all sorts of junk (sibit, hardboard, roofing felt, linoleum) and attached it to the garage door. I quickly got bored with shooting at targets and the need arose to shoot at something falling, flying away, more complex and interesting. This is how the idea was born to make a low-budget “Falling” target. First, the principle of the target itself was thought out - the target is supported by a movable mechanism at an angle on the base and is thrown back under the influence of a bullet. The basis was taken from a piece of threshold left by repairmen after installing new doors, which can be replaced with a board with a slatted top. img

A simple wooden ruler (glue, staples or screws) was attached to the threshold to reduce the angle. For the folding mechanism, a hasp for padlocks was chosen (four pieces for 20-30 rubles).

There, at the market, four large diameter washers (40-45mm or slightly

To connect the washer and the bolt, a thermotube was purchased from a radio parts store

(for the diameter of the washer 50-70 rubles).

In the final assembly, we screw the finished targets to the base with a slight slope. The last step is to glue small magnets (from magnets to the refrigerator) to the base, so that when hit, one target falls, and not all at once.

In conclusion, the base should be attached to something more serious, for example, to a bullet catcher and that’s it!