Anomalous zones and places of power in the Murmansk region. It still looks like a fairy tale
A unique report by the world-famous scientific professor and traveler Ernst Muldashev on the mysterious Kola Peninsula. Unusual unique phenomena and versions in facts about this little-studied place.
The famous traveler and scientist Ernst Muldashev made an unusual expedition to the Kola Peninsula. What interested the world-famous professor so much in the Kola Peninsula, and what discoveries did he and his team make?
The expedition “In the Footsteps of Ancient Civilizations” was one of the rare ones that took place on the territory of Russia, says Ernst Muldashev. — We usually travel abroad or the routes are mixed. Our main goal was to understand the phenomenon of zombification or “measuring” of people that existed on the Kola Peninsula. This expedition is an intermediate one before the big trip “In the Footsteps of Ching Khan”. According to Mongolian legends, Genghis Khan had the ninth fragment of the philosopher's stone, which allowed him to zombify people. But he zombied in a kind way - he told people: “Don’t fight, we are all brothers, the national question is not fundamental.”
On the Kola Peninsula, zombies were mastered by the Noids - shamans of the Sami people or, in other words, Lapps. Lapps are reindeer herders; there are only a few of them left - about three thousand. Interestingly, they have very light blue, almost white eyes. This nationality is surprising in that it was purposefully studied by the special department of the Cheka-OGPU-NKVD of the USSR under the leadership of Gleb Bokiy (this department existed from 1921 to 1938. Its official tasks were large-scale radio and electronic intelligence, decryption of telegrams, development of ciphers, radio interception, direction finding and identifying enemy spy transmitters on the territory of the USSR. He was also involved in magic in all its manifestations - author’s note). Then the whole world was trying to master new technologies, such as zombification of people. After all, if you know how to zombify people, then winning in any war will be guaranteed. A trip to the Kola Peninsula was organized by the special department of the NKVD. Two expeditions were also organized there by the German organization “Ahnenerbe” - “Heritage of the Ancestors” (an SS bureau that conducted research from Tibet to Antarctica - author’s note). The goal was one - to master the technique of zombification..
What did we find on the Kola Peninsula? We found out that yes, the phenomenon of “measuring” really existed. And it still exists to one degree or another. Noids knew and know a spell that allows people to be put into a zombie state. Moreover, this spell allowed the Sami to survive in the harsh conditions of the North - the polar night, frost, winds. This spell was pronounced in the form of an unexpected shout and the person entered a state of trance - kevve. Then this person was shown what to do, and he repeated the movements shown, for example, chopping wood or washing dishes. As it turned out, this was a system for raising children. Hard-working people grew up. They also influenced lazy people, trying to get them to work. However, there was a mass “measurement” in other situations, for example, during military operations - people were put in a line, given guns, a shout sounded - and everyone walked forward in even rows, pulling the trigger. It was this ability of shamans that military organizations wanted to use. But the military did not understand that shamans are guides of God and they cannot be forced to do anything by force, and they are not afraid of death. Imagine,” Ernst Muldashev exclaims, “what a blessing that during World War II no one won the battle for zombies, no one was able to use the skill of shamans!”
In addition,” the professor continues, “before the start of the expedition we were faced with the question of Hitler’s flying saucers. We knew that somewhere in these parts the Germans were testing aircraft created using so-called magical technologies.
And we saw the launch site of these dishes. A scientist from Murmansk, Vladislav Troshin, found unusual circles on the shores of the Arctic Ocean, in the town of Liinakhamari. On the shore in this place there is a not very high hill. But it has three distinctive features.
The first is that water oozes out of every stone there. If you cut a stone, water will drip from it. There are no swamps or streams there, and where the water in the stones comes from is completely unclear.
The second is that there are a lot of wide quartz veins that go, as they say, almost to the core of the Earth.
And the third feature of this hill is that there are seids there. These are oval stones, weighing many tons, placed on level ground in an unusual way. They stand contrary to the laws of physics, it seems that the center of gravity should outweigh, and the stone should fall, but it stands. They are held by some kind of energy. Seids are at every step - every five to ten meters. Who put them like that? Unknown. Moreover, there are quite a lot of fresh seids. Local residents say that some appeared just last year.
There are many German artillery batteries there. This area was very fortified. And on this hill there is a pit seven meters deep, about 40 meters in diameter, dug in the rocky ground. And it contains four circles of different diameters made of very good quality concrete. The pit is filled with water.
We found on the Internet declassified materials from the Ahnenerbe expedition about magical technologies. The essence of technology is this: magicians, mainly Tibetan lamas, received information from space - what, where and how to build. And Ahnenerbe found a talented engineer, Viktor Schauberger, who was able to make flying saucers using these technologies at German factories. There were three types of plates. They differed in diameter. And these plates were tested somewhere on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. The engine of these saucers was water. In the center of the plate there was a cavity filled with water. Around it was an electromagnetic motor that set the water in motion, accelerating it in a circle. Plates were also launched from water. On the sides of the pool there were two more engines that accelerated the water in it. But all this worked only after the magician cast a spell on water. The water was spinning at great speed in the plate itself and in the pit. A water vortex appeared, an anti-gravity effect arose, and the plate took off. According to descriptions, the saucer flew at an average speed of 21 thousand kilometers per hour. The plane covers 800-900 kilometers.
Judging by these descriptions, we can say that the tests took place on this slide that we saw. There is a lot of water, it comes up on its own. Seids are the energy system of the Earth. Quartz veins are conductors of energy. When we analyzed the circles, everything coincided with the descriptions of the Ahnenerbe expedition.
But the Germans lost in World War II. Ours were advancing, the Germans very stubbornly defended this hill, because there were weapons of the future, but, seeing that the resistance would be broken, they took the plates to the bunker and blew them up. There are even witnesses to this from the local population. And they mined everything around. Our troops then covered it all with earth so that the civilian population would not explode on these mines. If we had cleared the bunker, we would have found these plates,” says the professor. — By the way, in this village, Liinakhamari, there is the Ahnenerbe building.
And then the Germans were afraid that the magicians - noids, shamans, lamas would fall into the hands of the NKVD, and they shot them in the Mauthausen concentration camp. But the creator of the plates, Viktor Schauberger, remained alive. And after the war, the Americans invited him, offered him a lot of money and asked him to start making plates again. He replied:
I don’t need money, I have all the diagrams in my head, I can find the mountain with water and the seids where we conducted the tests. But there are no magicians! They remained in Mauthausen. And without spells I can't do anything.
In addition to the research carried out on this mountain, Ernst Muldashev’s expedition visited the sacred Sami lake - Seydozero, which is associated with many legends and which is considered one of the supposed places of existence of one of the previous earthly civilizations - the Hyperborean. There are walls of unknown origin under the water. But since the expedition members did not have special equipment for underwater work, and there were no such tasks, they limited themselves to superficial research and inspection of the surrounding areas.
Professor Muldashev’s plans for the future include expeditions to Romania and Mongolia for new interesting facts.
Sami. Khomich L.V.
Perhaps there is not a single nation that does not have fairy tales, songs, legends, that is, what is usually called oral folk art or folklore. And how diverse it is among different nations! What kind of plots and characters can you find! Let us remember the Russian fairy tales about Princess Nesmeyan, Baba Yaga or Ivan the Fool. Or Arabic tales about Sinbad the Sailor and Ali Baba! Do you remember Väinämöinen and Ilmarinen from Kalevala?..
There are so many fairy tales about animals in the world! Some of them are very ancient and, perhaps, go back to myths that explain the origin of certain natural phenomena. There are, of course, many things in common in the folklore of different peoples: giants, goblins, good and evil fairies, but their appearance and behavioral characteristics are characteristic, as a rule, only of a given people. Understanding what causes the appearance of certain characters in the folklore of any people is a very fascinating matter, but this is too broad a task, and we will turn to the oral creativity of the Sami and try to determine its main plots and images.
It should be noted that a general scientific work on Sami folklore has not yet been published, but there are books containing descriptions of individual genres. Records of Sami folklore were made by N. N. Kharuzin, V. V. Charnolusky, G. M. Kert and other researchers of ethnography and the Sami language. Most of the recordings are made in Russian. A brief classification of the folklore of the Kola Sami is available in the work of V.V. Charnolusky. Here is the beginning of one of the tales:
“One day, late in the evening, boys and girls gathered to go sledding. But their mothers don’t tell them: “Guys, stop playing! The moon has risen - it's time to go home. Tala will come already, he will drag you all away.” However, the children did not listen. We started skating in the moonlight. It’s light on the hill, but they don’t think about what’s behind the hill. And Tala, the bug-eyed one, is right there. He hid in the shadows and said: “Ride, ride, kids, I’ll give you a kick-ass!”
Here are the children going down the slide. Tala jumped out from behind a stone and opened a large sealskin bag with bone clasps across the road. The children rolled into the bag... The shutters clicked and locked. Tala threw the bag full of boys and girls onto his back and went to his home. I carried and carried and got tired. He stopped, hung the bag on a twig and said: “Get some sleep, kids, and I’ll go three or four lakes into the woods to sit and rest.” And he left... Time passes. Tala is walking somewhere, and the guys are hanging in a bag. "What do we do?" - one whispered. “Tala will eat us,” said another. The girls started crying.
Then the smallest boy asked the girls if they had a needle and thread. “Yes, yes,” the girls answered and gave him a needle and thread and a thimble. “Listen,” said the boy, “I’ll rip the bag open with a knife, but don’t waste your time, carry the stones!” The bag was ripped open, the children jumped out and started carrying stones and putting them in it. They put a full bag of stones on it, and the boy jumped into it. The children sewed up the bag and ran home, but the boy was left alone and hanging in the bag along with the stones. Tala returned and asked: “Are you here? Are you all here? “Here, here, Tala, we are all here,” the boy answered. Tala took the bag, threw it over his shoulder and went..."
And, of course, the smart guy deceived stupid Tala. Doesn't it remind you of the fairy tale "Toy Thumb"?
Who is Tala and why is this creature hostile to people? Is this a purely fantastic character or does his presence in Sami folklore have some historical roots?
Sami tales - mains - are varied in content and form. There are children's fairy tales, tales about Tal, tales about rabbis (ghouls), and chaklis (dwarfs). Fairy tales are considered an entertainment genre, although mines about Tal or chakli have much in common with some other genres.
Sami myths and legends are of great interest. In the old days, lovta were sung, their text was poetic. They were treated with reverence, as if they were something of cult significance. The most famous myth is about Myandash the deer-man. In addition, the Sami have fairy tales and legends about the sun, northern lights and other natural phenomena (ninas).
Another genre close to Russian fairy tales and Scandinavian sagas is sakki. These are historical legends about wars, about the fight against enemies, about exploits, as well as legends associated with individual mountains, lakes, and anything remarkable. Sakki, according to the Sami, tell about real events that took place in the past, which is confirmed by any surviving traces of these events.
Byvalshchiny and fables (boys) are short comic stories of edifying content, some of them resemble parables.
And finally, mushtolls (literally translated - “fell into mind, came to mind”) - stories about the events of the day, improvisations, sometimes in the form of songs.
Here's one of the boys:
“There lived a husband and wife. They lived well. They had a good farm, and they had children, and they kept a herd of deer, and sheep, and ducks. Once a husband and wife had an argument. The wife says: “I have a lot to do around the house. Sheep need to be fed, clothes need to be washed, dinner needs to be cooked, bread needs to be baked - everything needs to be done. And all at once." Her husband tells her that all these things are not work, just vanity, but come on, handle the deer!
The wife went to graze the flock, and the husband stayed at home to manage. He began to knead the dough. While he was kneading, the dog snatched the meat from the cauldron and ran. He's behind the dog, but he hasn't locked the door. The sheep got into the bowl, ruined the dough, got their faces dirty, and their eyes covered. He was driving the sheep, but they blindly fell into the lake. The husband returned to the bag, took the linen, and ran to the river to rinse. Then the dog came up, he said to her: “Why did you eat the meat?!”, and he let his underwear fall into the water, and was carried far away by the current. While he was trying to catch up with the laundry, an eagle flew to the bowl and dragged all the ducks around. The husband runs home: the children at home are squeaking and asking for food. But he has nothing - no meat, no dough, no ducks.
He looks: his wife is already coming out of the tundra. She drove the herd to the container. The herding dogs are with her. He says: “Give us something to eat, we’re hungry!” The husband replies: “There is nothing: the dog ate the meat, the sheep smeared the dough, they covered their eyes and drowned in the lake, the laundry was carried away by the current, and the eagle carried away the ducks.” The children on the bed whine: “We want some bread!” What could the wife do? He says: “Oh you! Take in the deer - everyone is safe and well fed!
The most interesting are the works about chakli and Myandash. Chakli (in some dialects chakli, chaklings) are little people who live underground, in caves and rock crevices. Their way of life is the same as that of the Sami: they engage in reindeer herding, fishing, and hunting. They talk wonderfully: if they tell them something or ask them, they answer in the same words, only in reverse order. At the same time they giggle all the time. The Sami consider chakli to be evil. They are considered to be real creatures: even at the end of the 19th century, many Sami storytellers claimed that they themselves saw chakli.
Here is how the relationship between the Sami and the Chakli is described in one of the fairy tales:
“Not far from the city of Kola lived an old man and an old woman. They had no children. The old man hunted, and the old woman ran the house.
One day an old man was walking through the forest and suddenly noticed that smoke was smoking between the roots of an old, old spruce tree. He came closer and looked: there was a hole in the ground. He lay down on the moss and looked into the hole. What is there? What's going on there? And he sees: there, underground, life is the same as with us, the Sami: there are graveyards - some in the forest, others by the sea. Shepherds graze deer, fishermen catch fish. In churchyards, the huts made of hewn boards are the same, covered with birch bark and turf on top, and stand as expected, in two rows. People come in and out of the vaults, and children play in the street. There's a little woman who jumped out of one of the vaults and ran to her home. In her hands the firebrand is smoking, sparks are flying - she borrowed this fire from a neighbor to light her fireplace. Some guy is teaching a deer to carry kerezha. Kerezha is the same as that of the Sami, like a boat placed on a ski runner. Even further - a shepherd drives a herd of deer; girls rinse clothes in the river. Everything is there, underground, like people's, not people. Some man came out of the vezha: a gun on his shoulder, a little dog running behind him; the gun is an old flintlock, called a rattle gun.
It was he who went hunting. Only he himself is very small, and his dog is even smaller. And his house is tiny.
He looks: the kids have gathered near the forest and are climbing up it, towards him, to the ground. The old man leaned back. I hid behind the tree and waited: what will happen next? Little children came out of the ground. Their heads are large, their eyes are like slits in birch bark, and on thin legs they have very large white canes, made of deer fur, with their toes turned up. “What a miracle,” the old man thinks, “it’s a chakli!” Underground inhabitants!
These children came out into the light, onto the surface of the earth, and let’s play. And they jump and tumble, imitate each other, and they still laugh, and burst into tears, as if someone was tickling them. It’s touching for an old man to see how cheerful and funny these chakli are. He doesn’t have his own children, so he’s happy with these little devils and admires them. And they, like little squirrels, play and frolic on the moss, under the spruce tree. The old man looked at them and thought. He returned home and said to the old woman: “Sew me a big canga and tie a collar to it.” The old woman sewed a large canga and attached a headdress to it. And the old man tied a long rope to the cange.
He took this canga and went to the place where he saw the chakley. He threw the kanga closer to the hole and began to wait: what would happen? It was getting late. As soon as the last rays of the sun illuminated the tops of the trees, these children jumped out of a hole in the ground and began to play. One of them saw a canga and let’s fiddle with it: he would knock it over on himself, then jump over it, and finally stood with both feet in the canga, and even wrapped himself in the frill. Then the old man pulled the rope and shouted. All the guys jumped into the hole, and the one who was in the kanga fell and remained lying on his side. The old man picked him up, freed him from the collar, took him in his hands and asked: “What is your name?” Dite looks the old man in the eyes, laughs and also asks: “What’s your name?” - “Yarasim,” the old man answers, “Yarashka too.” “Also Yarashkoy, Yarasim,” the chaklya repeats and bursts out laughing. So the old man named the cheerful foundling by his name - Yarashka.
He brought the boy home and said to his wife: “We didn’t have children - here’s your son!” “Here you go, son, we didn’t have children,” Yarashka repeats after the old man. The old woman was happy. Well, they began to live and get along..."
Images of dwarfs, close to the Sami chakli, are found among many northern peoples. In particular, among the neighbors of the Sami - the Nenets - these are the Sikhirtya people. Like chakli, they are small in stature, live underground, speak strangely (as if they stutter). In these characters of Nenets legends, scientists see some ancient population of the circumpolar zone. Perhaps the same can be assumed regarding the chakla? V.V. Charnolusky believes that the tala mentioned above may reflect the Sami’s ideas about some ancient inhabitants of this land or their neighbors. On the other hand, scientists have data confirming that Tala is a werebear. In short, the images of Sami folklore are ambiguous, and work on its study should be continued.
In conclusion, I would like to talk about the catches dedicated to Myandash - the human deer. Stories about the transformation of people into animals are found in the folklore of different peoples of the world (let’s remember: “Don’t drink from a puddle, you’ll become a little goat!” The boy did not listen to his sister and became a little goat). Among the Sami, Myandash is a wild deer, born from a male deer and a woman (something similar is found in Polish and Lithuanian legends about Lokis - the bear man).
It is told like this:
“A long time ago there lived an old woman-noida (witch). She was tired of being in human form. She turned into an important woman - a female wild deer. No one knows for sure how long she walked like a deer. She walked with wild deer. And now the time has come for her to give birth. Just before giving birth, she was scared: how will she give birth to a deer? The witch turned into a woman again. However, it did not help - the son was born a deer.
Copper plaque “Myandash”
She fed the calf with her breast. He grew up big and began to help with the housework: he carried firewood to the vezha where she lived. They understood each other. When the deer became an adult, he wanted to be free and he went into the tundra...”
The connection between man and wild deer can be traced quite clearly in Sami folklore. Perhaps there was once a ban on hunting wild deer. It is difficult to say whether this was connected with the remnants of totemism (the idea of the origin of a group of people from some animal) or other beliefs. In any case, in the oral literature of the Sami there appear three creatures from the animal world, whose marriage with women was often mentioned - the raven, the bear and the wild deer. The cycle about Myandash is the most interesting. As mentioned earlier, hunting for wild deer was later widespread due to the small number of domestic deer herds. However, a special attitude towards wild deer has been preserved.
Scientists find confirmation of this in other types of creativity.
V.V. Charnolusky studied the so-called animal style in the works of Perm foundry workers, which date back to approximately the end of the 1st - beginning of the 2nd millennium AD. True, the man depicted on the bronze plaques had similarities not with a deer, but with an elk, widespread in the Kama region, in the region of the Komi-Permyak Autonomous Okrug. A comparison of the characters of the Sami legends about Mändash with images on Perm cast plaques is of undoubted interest.
Let us now turn to other aspects of the spiritual culture of the Sami.
Four tourists recently died on one of the passes of the Kola Peninsula near Lake Seid. Experienced, athletic guys lay in a chain stretching from the pass to the nearest housing. The latter ran seven kilometers and fell two hundred meters from the nearest house, where he hoped to find salvation. No signs of violence were found on the bodies, but a grimace of horror was frozen on all faces.
And around, according to the frightened local residents, there were footprints that did not look like those of an animal, but were too large for a person...
The tragedy that happened is like two peas in a pod like another that happened about 30 years ago in the same northern latitudes, but thousands of kilometers distant from the Kola Peninsula. In the Northern Urals, in the upper reaches of the Pechora River, a group of Sverdlovsk tourists disappeared. Rescuers who urgently went to the area where the Sverdlovsk residents were supposed to take their route found them only a few days later. On the pass of Mount Otorten there were two tents, their back walls were cut with knives, and down the mountainside there were half-naked tourists lying in the snow. No signs of violence were found on their bodies. But just like on the Kola Peninsula, horror froze on the faces of the victims.
Mysterious deaths
There is one more detail that unites these two terrible incidents. Near Mount Otorten there is the Man-Papunier tract, sacred to the Mansi peoples. Six huge, several tens of meters high, stone pillars rise here above the spurs of the Urals. According to a legend preserved among the northern peoples, six mighty giants pursued one of the Mansi tribes going beyond the “stone belt” of the Ural Mountains. At the source of the Pechora River at the pass, the giants had almost overtaken the tribe. But a small shaman with a face as white as lime blocked their path and turned the giants into six stone pillars. Since then, every shaman from the Mansi tribe always came to the sacred tract and drew their magical power from it.
Discoveries of a secret expedition
Seid Lake on the Kola Peninsula still evokes awe among the local population. Local shamans found their last refuge on its southern shore. And this is also marked by extraordinary monuments, but not of nature, like the Man-Papunier ridge, but of man. A geographical expedition visited this area in 1920–1921. The expedition was unusual. It was organized by... the OGPU. The leader of the expedition, Alexander Barchenko, head of the neuroenergetics laboratory of the All-Union Institute of Experimental Medicine, was also known as an unusual person. The range of his professional interests was very wide: the creation of devices for radio espionage, the study of extraordinary or, as they now say, extrasensory abilities of humans, clarification of the nature of UFOs, the search for Bigfoot and much more. The expedition was brought to the Kola Peninsula by an order from the leadership of the OGPU: to study the extraordinary disease widespread here - “emerek”, or “merechene”.
It is difficult to find anything similar to this “devilry”, which bewilders even modern psychologists, who tend to compare the state of “deadness” with the state of a zombie. Local residents often explained this disease as the machinations of a mysterious tribe of dwarf sorcerers who once lived on the territory of the Kola Peninsula, who were angry at people who disturbed the peace of their graves. This is what astrophysicist Condiain, a member of the expedition, wrote in his diary: “In one of the gorges we saw mysterious things. Next to the snow, which lay here and there in patches along the slopes of the gorge, a yellowish-white column like a giant candle was visible, next to it was a cubic stone. On the other side of the mountain from the north you can see a gigantic cave at an altitude of 200 fathoms and nearby something like a walled crypt.” But what struck scientists most was the change in the mental state of people who found themselves near ancient structures. For some reason, their appearance brought the members of the expedition into a state of unaccountable horror.
Not far from the tract, the expedition discovered several small hills that looked like pyramids built by human hands. At their feet, scientists experienced weakness, dizziness, or an unaccountable feeling of fear. “Even the natural weight of a person,” according to Condiain, “here increased or decreased.” And another unexpected discovery was made by the expedition. She discovered a narrow hole going deep into the rock. It was not possible to investigate it. The daredevil who tried to penetrate it experienced... irresistible, almost tangible horror. He felt as if his skin was being slowly torn off alive. In 1997, another expedition led by Doctor of Philology Valery Demin visited these places. However, she did not find the mysterious, fear-inspiring manhole. But she discovered several ancient structures, including a stone “observatory” on Mount Bingurt, an Etruscan anchor and a well under Mount Kuamdepahk.
Dungeon Dwellers
The Lapps living on the Kola Peninsula and their neighbors the Sami have legends about dwarfs who once settled underground. The Lapps call them "Sayvok". Laplanders are nomadic people. Having spread out their light dwelling in a convenient place, they could sometimes hear vague voices and the clanking of iron coming to them from underground. This served as a signal: to immediately move the yurt to a new place - it blocked the entrance to the underground dwelling of the saivok. The Lapps were afraid to quarrel with dwarfs - underground inhabitants who were afraid of daylight, but powerful wizards.
Legends about small underground inhabitants who know how to process iron and have supernatural abilities have been preserved among all the peoples inhabiting the North of Russia. So, the Komi living in the Pechora Lowland know about the existence of little people who work miracles and predict the future. They came from the north. At first the little men did not know how to speak the Komi language, but then they gradually learned. They taught people how to forge iron. Their witchcraft had terrible power. At their command, the Sun and Moon dimmed.
On the coast of the Arctic Ocean, the Nenets take the baton of Komi legends about dwarfs. “A long time ago, when our people were not here, “siirtya” lived here - small people. When there were a lot of people, they completely disappeared into the ground.” This is how they talk about the Siirtya - a strange, mythical people who once allegedly inhabited the space from Kanin Nos to the Yenisei.
Russian explorers, who appeared in the Urals later, also have legends and tales about small, beautiful people with unusually pleasant voices living in the mountains. Just like the saivok on the Kola Peninsula, they do not like to be in daylight, but some people hear a ringing sound coming from underground. And this ringing is not accidental. “White-eyed Chud” - this is the name used by dwarfs in Ural tales - was engaged in underground mining of gold, silver, and copper. When the Russians came to the Urals, on the advice of prophetic shamans who knew the future, the white-eyed chud, who lived on the western slopes of the Urals, dug long underground passages and disappeared into the depths of the mountains with all her treasures.
In these foothills of the Urals, where the Chud disappeared, there is another place - the Sumgan cave, with which a “sense of horror” is associated, as is the case with the manhole found by the OGPU expedition on the Kola Peninsula.
Speleologists who have stormed this cave more than once and reached its second bottom recall the feeling of incomprehensible, unfounded fear that gripped them in one of the cave passages. To this day, the narrow hole into which this passage passes has not been passed by anyone.
There are traces of mysterious underground inhabitants in distant Yakutia, in the Vilyui River basin, in a place bearing the significant name Death Valley. Rare researchers who have reached this mysterious place talk about amazing metal bells covering passages leading into unexplored depths. Mikhail Koretsky from Vladivostok was lucky - he visited Death Valley three times. He didn’t end up there because of a good life - in this place most people could pan for gold without fear of getting a bullet in the back of the head. “I saw,” says Koretsky, “seven “boilers.” Their size is from six to nine meters in diameter. They are made of an incomprehensible metal that even a sharpened chisel cannot handle. On top of the metal is covered with a layer of an unknown material, similar to emery, which cannot be chipped or scratched.”
The Yakuts say that previously, from under the domes it was possible to get into rooms located deep underground, where thin, one-eyed people in iron clothes lay frozen through and through.
Stones there, rocks and granite
Not only legends remain from the mysterious inhabitants who went underground. Scientific records of the expeditions of the discoverer of “Russian Hyperborea” on the Kola Peninsula, Alexander Barchenko, were subsequently classified by the Cheka, and then disappeared without a trace. But, fortunately, his novel “Doctor Black” has been preserved, in which he encrypted some of the results of his expeditions in the Russian North.
“Far away on the other side, a fire broke out. It plunged, disappeared, blinked again, and it looked as if a snake was crawling in the depths of the lake, flashing its scales...
-What kind of light is that blinking, Ilya? Where is it? Are these fishermen?
The old man turned to the lake, looked for a long time, even covered himself with his hand, although the dawn had long gone out, and chewed his lips disapprovingly.
-...There are no fishermen there. There are stones, rocks, granite. A remote place... This is in Pechory... They come right to the water, and then these caves go thousands of miles underground, to Finland. It’s just, one might say, a dark place... In the old days, the Chud lived here, and then the Chukhns took over this side...
So she, therefore, went underground... Well, how could it be that in the face of trouble, in the face of some misfortune, now she is coming out.”
Back in the 16th century, European geographers were convinced of the existence in the Arctic Ocean of an archipelago of large islands or even the continent of Arctida, inhabited by dwarfs. They are mentioned in very similar legends among almost all northern peoples. The dwarfs created a strange civilization, unlike ours. They had pronounced extrasensory, as they say now, abilities. Echoes of legends about a fair country were systematized by the ancient historian Pliny in his description of the country of the Hyperboreans. “The day lasts for six whole months and the night for the same length. This country has a pleasant and fertile climate. Their homes are located in forests and groves, where they worship the gods... They know neither hostility nor disease. They never die. At night they hide in caves."
Then one of many earthly cataclysms occurred, as a result of which the Arctic continent went under water, and the warm Gulf Stream that warmed it changed its direction. The surviving inhabitants of Arctida left the freezing and quickly covered islands and settled in northern Europe and Asia. They were unable to restore their civilization, did not want to fight with the local residents, and gradually left the surface of the earth into underground catacombs and caves, into their usual habitat. After all, in their homeland they spent six months in them. To protect them from the energetic and greedy for precious metals, especially gold, peoples of northern Europe, they placed psychological barriers at the entrances to their underground shelters, instilling supernatural horror in people, driving them away from places sacred to dwarfs, and sometimes even leading curious people to death.
The possibility of the existence of land in the north of the Earth is confirmed not only by legends, but also by the opinion of some prominent scientists. For example, the famous Russian polar explorer J. Gakkel wrote back in 1965: “... As a result of studies of the Central Arctic, which illuminate its nature in a completely new way, the question arises about the former existence of the ancient land - Arctida - in the Arctic Ocean.” According to the scientist, based on a detailed study of the bottom topography of the Arctic Ocean, until relatively recently, about 5 thousand years ago, the appearance of the Arctic was completely different. The peaks of the underwater ridges of Mendeleev and Lomonosov rose above the surface of the water, the islands of Spitsbergen, Franz Josef, and the New Siberian Islands were much larger, and in the waters of the Arctic Ocean there was another part of the world - Arctida, consisting of individual archipelagos and large islands.
5000 years... The period seems to be too short for an entire civilization to disappear during it. But this only seems to us, people who happened to live in a period of relative stability, unchanged land contours and ocean boundaries.
Anything that cannot be explained scientifically raises a lot of questions in people. Among the objects that have puzzled many researchers is Seydozero. Located on the Kola Peninsula, it magnetically attracts tourists and lovers of the unknown. Which, in the end, gives rise to even more speculation and legends.
The lake is a place with a special climate
Seydozero is one of the components of Seydyavvr (Seydyavr), that is, a state natural complex reserve of regional significance in the Murmansk region, on the Kola Peninsula. The lake itself is small, its length is about 8 km, its width in different places reaches from 1.5 to 2.5 km. Altitude above sea level – 189 km.
The places are classified as the tundra zone, but the lake itself and the surrounding areas have a special microclimate due to the adjacent mountains. Thanks to this, rare species of animals maintain their populations here, and there are conditions for the survival of plants that are not typical for polar latitudes. Seydozero also has a very high level of fish stocking.
Beautiful photo collage about the lake
Legends surrounding the lake
The Legend of Kuiva
Kuiva is a mythological giant from Sami legends, depicted on a rock bas-relief that resembles a human figure in motion. Its height is about 75 m, so the outline of Kuyva is clearly visible from afar, especially in winter.
The legend of Kuiva is retold by the local Sami people. It talks about the giant Kuiva, who tried to kill the ancestors of the Sami in the Seydozero valley. Kuiva gained the upper hand in the fight and then the Sami called on their gods to protect them. The gods were angry with the giant and turned him into an image on a rock.
Today Kuiva is considered one of the main seids in Sami culture as the resting place of a giant. Local residents are afraid of Kuivu and try not to walk near it unless absolutely necessary, especially women, so that nothing inside becomes petrified.
Modern research has shown that Kuiva may have a natural origin associated with the colonization of mosses and lichens characteristic of the tundra. But science cannot completely refute the legendary origin of Kuiva.
Legends about seids
The name Seydozero comes from the Sami word “seid”, which means sacred. The Sami call stones, stumps, lakes and other remarkable places seids, which mean “inaccessible afterlife paradise.”
The most common seids are pointed pyramids or rock blocks on “stone legs.” In Russia, they can be found on the Kola Peninsula or in Karelia. It has been proven that some of them are of modern origin and created by local residents in order to attract tourists. The same cannot be said about seids with a thousand-year history near Seydozero.
It is believed that each of them had its own legend. In general, the Sami seids were divided into 2 types: personal and public. They tried to hide the first from prying eyes, while others placed them on elevated surfaces so that they could be seen from afar.
The Sami attended public seids with a certain frequency and almost always made sacrifices to them. As evidenced by the remains of deer skulls and antlers.
Legend of the Underground City
The existence of an underground city on Seydozero is associated with the Hyperborean civilization. Many believe that it has not disappeared anywhere, but continues to exist off the coast of Seydozero or at its bottom. According to another hypothesis, Sami shamans live in the ancient underground city.
As a result of many scientific expeditions, it was possible to collect some facts that indirectly indicate the possible existence of underground cities near Seydozero. So, in the 90s of the last century, scientists found rock writings, ruins of stone structures and rectangular slabs with even holes.
Also near the lake, researchers discovered fragments of a wall that could have been a protective structure and a well with a foundation. All these terrestrial finds are unlikely to be of natural origin.
Underground cities of Hyperborea
Scientists have not given up hope of finding evidence of the existence of the city at the bottom of the lake. As a result of his examination in the early 2000s, it was possible to discover some wells 70 cm wide that went downhill. A large amount of silt prevented deeper exploration.
As a result of examining the valley near the lake, the instruments recorded a certain void that began after 9 m of soil. The lower limit of the conventional cave was never recorded by sonars and echo sounders.
From a scientific point of view, there cannot be such objects in this area, but still the evidence found is not enough to confirm the hypothesis about the existence of underground cities.
Mysterious Cave Barchenko
Alexander Barchenko is considered a great researcher of Seydozero. It was he who first organized a scientific expedition to this area. In his memoirs, he shared that local residents discouraged them from going along the intended route. But Barchenko was a fanatical researcher, and continued his work to find traces of Hyperborea.
As a result of the survey, the following were discovered: Kuyva rock, a stone paved road, and cairns. The expedition members eventually made friends with the local Sami and they led them to the most mysterious place. In appearance, it resembled a column in the form of a candle; a mysterious stone lay nearby. There was a passage to the cave right there, but no one dared to get inside. All members of the expedition panicked, and they simply took pictures near the hole.
Some researchers believe that Barchenko was close to solving the existence of an ancient civilization, but the Soviet government sentenced him to execution and most of the knowledge was lost.
The Legend of Mogilny Island and the Goddess of Waters
Mogilny Island is the largest on the territory of Seydozero. This place is considered forbidden for the Sami. Shamans performed rituals on it, so the island is full of traces of sacrifice.
Legend has it that at times the island begins to move and is ruled by the beautiful Goddess of Waters. She seduces men and drowns Seydozer in the water.
The Legend of the Local Bigfoot
The Sami believe that in the areas around Seydozero there lives a certain forest spirit Mets-vuinas. He does not harm those who do not make noise or disturb sacred places. But troublemakers may be prevented from leaving the area.
One of the employees of the Tundra reindeer herding state farm, Vasily Galkin, recalled how local residents forbade children to make noise in the evening so as not to disturb the forest spirit.
Other tourists recall suddenly losing their way and walking in the same place for hours. All these phenomena are associated precisely with the anger of Bigfoot.
There are suggestions that the Kola Peninsula was once inhabited by Hyperboreans. It is with the activities of this mythical people that some of the main legends about Seydozero are connected.
Hyperborea - a northern country from ancient Greek mythology
Hyperborea is mentioned in the works of antiquity as a marginal country near the Arctic Circle. Some authors believed that it was located in Greenland, others - on the territory of modern Karelia, but most localized it precisely on the Kola Peninsula near Seydozero.
Video story about the mysterious Hyperborea from ethnologist and candidate of historical sciences Svetlana Zharnikova
Hyperborea was praised as rich and beloved by the gods, and the inhabitants were considered close to Apollo himself. He, according to myths, often visited the country. The Hyperboreans, like their patron, had high talent for art, sang and danced well and led a carefree, rich life. Death for the Hyperboreans was a relief from satiety with pleasures.
The Greeks believed that the best assistants and patrons of Apollo - Abaris and Aristeas - came from Hyperborea. They taught the ancient Greeks the cultural values of their people and possessed superpower.
The fact that Hyperborea, or rather some of its descriptions, is a creative fiction can be found out from some mentions of the sages. Thus, in Natural History, the ancient Roman scientist Pliny the Elder mentions the country as a place with sunny and friendly weather, rich vegetation and fertile soil.
The thinker Timagenes in his works mentioned Hyperborea as a country where rain falls in the form of copper drops. Local residents collected them and used them as coins.
Lucian of Samosata, who became famous as a satirist and public figure, in his writings compared the way of life of Hyperborea and Ancient Greece. At the same time, he endowed the Hyperboreans with superpowers, for example, the ability to fly or summon the spirits of the dead.
All of the above mentions of Hyperborea are considered by modern historians as an attempt by ancient peoples to describe something unprecedented, which in this case is the outskirts of the continents.
Seydozero is a place where legends and scientific facts hang evenly in the balance. A place where tourists go not just for new experiences, but to search for a philosophy of life that is stored in the waters of the lake and its surroundings. The depths of Seydozero cannot be immediately understood, but you can fall in love with the mystery and rich world of either the mythical Hyperboreans or the original Sami at first sight!
Where is it located and how to get there from Moscow or St. Petersburg
The lake is located in the Murmansk region, on the Kola Peninsula.
- Airplane or train. You can get to Murmansk by plane or by train to Olenegorsk. Next by bus or ride.
- Bus. Regular buses run from Murmansk and Olenegorsk to the villages of Revda and Lovozero 2 times a day. Also, there is a regular bus service between these two villages 3 times a day in both directions. Further only on foot or by boat.
- On foot or by boat. From the village of Lovozero by boat on the lake of the same name, then 1 km on foot along the tundra. You can walk from the village of Lovozero directly across the tundra - about 25 km. Some people prefer to go from Revda on foot, the path is a little shorter than from the village of Lovozero. There used to be a railway from Revda to the lake, but it is now destroyed.
- Local transfer. If you are staying at the Yulinskaya Salma tourist center (located in the central part of Lovozero, on the eastern shore), then they organize a transfer from the village of Lovozero, in winter and summer.
What the village of Revda looks like (in the first part of the video)
Video about how the local Sami people live
Diary of a participant in a hike across the Arctic - Lovozero tundra of the Kola Peninsula in August 2014.
I'm sitting on the edge, looking into the starry sky, and the glow of the cold stars returns the reflection of the words that were once sent. The veil falls from the world. Soft moss carpets I am a guest.
We fly across kilometers on the Moscow-Murmansk train. Stuffiness, the endless sound of wheels, intellectual conversations and a mountain of fish pies :) With every kilometer, landing on the planet Tundra seems more and more desirable and attractive... But so far there is no awareness at all, Where we go.
Our group consists of eight people. We met all the participants, except for the woman from St. Petersburg - we are supposed to meet her at the Olenegorsk station.
The path to a fairy tale
Our journey begins from the Karnasurta mine. Smoothly, the boundaries of the mine with its small gray stones and Soviet-urban rails with standing trolleys flowed into something surprisingly soft underfoot - soft green carpets endlessly stretching into the distance.
The tundra began immediately. Here is border number one - a wooden bridge over a stream, and immediately - the same one, number two. I raise my head - the whole space is filled with some kind of infernal glow. The air is deliciously delicious. And there is a ringing silence.
It goes quickly and easily. Pretty soon we settle down for a snack under a large rock. How delicious everything is, let’s eat it on both cheeks!
A strange thought came to me: there seemed to be no one here to wait for us, but everyone seemed to feel the feeling that they were happy to see us.
Somewhat exhaustedly happy, we move up to the plateau. At the second stop we managed to feel like deer, chewing dry and sour reindeer moss. I agree to eat like this, if anything :)
And finally here we are Here.
Our parking lot and its surroundings are delicately illuminated by the golden sun. A sea of stones, slightly touched by the intricate patterns of lichen, unfolded in front of us, with stunning views of the deep Podenouai Gorge.
In search of freshness we go down to the river. Here, water flows through thundering waterfalls, collecting in transparent baths. Yellow flowers grow between the shiny stones - water lilies, or something...
Intoxicated by the incredible luck of being present in this unimaginable place, we rush to bathe (or rather, to cleanse ourselves) in the icy water. I dove in headfirst. Wow, refreshing!!!
I look at the guys: everyone has turned into someone else. Some turned into a gnome, some into a nymph:) Others appear faces. Faces of fairy-tale reality.
Having risen, we set off on a radial journey through the world of stones. Andrey said that somewhere here there is a small fracture in the rocks, which means: cave!
We search in different places, and finally Valar shouts for us to go down to him.
A small underground space plays with silver reflections. Thousands of transparent droplets hang on the damp walls, flickering in the light of our lanterns.
We admire...
And on the plateau everything was already illuminated with the amber of the pre-sunset luminary. We wander through the stone hills, spellbound. It’s amazing to be able to walk on stones that are sometimes twice your size...
Suddenly we hear: an owl hoots. This is Andrey calling to the camp. The supper is ready.
The sun set behind the mountains. The outlines of the tundras began to glow softly with azure hues, but the sky still did not darken. It seems like there is no need to go to bed...
So we sit in the Arctic Circle, right up to sunrise, singing songs with a guitar and contemplating the light breath of the night tundra.
Hyperborea in the mirror of the Light Lakes
Despite active night vigils and only a few hours of sleep, we look quite fresh :) While brewing tea (this action was supplemented by holding a shielding plate protecting from the wind near the burner flame), I suddenly saw how clean, renewed and amazingly beautiful everything around was . And I saw myself in the image of someone... A monk, or something. And thoughts about the Eternal began to flow. And they flowed while we were packing up the camp, while we were going to the site of the base camp in the area of Mount Salsurt...
Along the way, we were treated to stunning views of the Podenouai Gorge and the Karnasurta Plateau, from where we had just left.
We swam among the stones. Clouds are huge flying saucers. The stone desert opened up before us. The gigantic outcast blocks fixed their gaze on the deep blue sky, but we cannot see the end or edge of this endlessly spreading thick gray rocky surface.
This is how these stones lie here, lie... For hundreds of thousands of years. How did they get here? …Mystery. What we are doing here is an even bigger mystery...
O. Medvedev's songs about Hyperborea inspired thoughts about snow leopards. We ourselves are like leopards - we jump on stones, and it turns out so surprisingly and easily...
We go down into the stone “room”. Let's rest. Here, someone built a fireplace, in the center of which a flower grew :) A very pleasant “natural” interior with a view of the valley of the Light Lakes. Maybe we can stay?
The descent into the valley is filled with magic. Slanting yellow rays illuminate a wide, cozy valley, in the depths of which the saucers of the lakes turn blue.
Along the way we encounter pink-tinted snow - the remains of a glacier.
Between the ghostly rocks the Light Lakes shine with reflections. Their mirror-like surface is disrupted by the wind, causing ripples. And the water vibrates and rings. Nessie lives here. It feels like no one lives here except her. The space is unsteady, unreal, but filled to the brim with light.
God! Hyperborea is located right here!..
We meet a partridge with partridges. They meow like cats. And they are not afraid of us at all.
We set up camp and start preparing food.
For dinner there was pasta with nuclear garlic. They ate and cried! And then the dukhan stood in the tent all night :)
It was hot, and it seemed like we slept for a long time. I dreamed of a phenomenal non-stick frying pan, which I definitely need to patent upon arrival.
Visit the Trolls
How wonderful it is to wake up here!..
After breakfast we go for a walk to the eternal glacier. He's very close. We hear a noise: a waterfall is running between large boulders, flowing into a bath that is tempting for swimming. And a whole mountain of snow hangs from above... It still melts, ringing as drops.
We splash naked in a deep couloir with icy water. For some reason the boys were driven away :)
Streams of bubbles rise from the bottom of reservoirs. Probably underground gases... The places are picturesque and sticky, just sit down and contemplate.
After the walk, we had a snack and the five of us went deep into the valley, to distant lakes. The views are amazing.
Rocks, moss, stones. Desert landscape... It's like another galaxy. Everything is very reminiscent of scenery, behind which there is actually something hidden that we, unfortunately, cannot see yet. But we feel it.
Driven by some fascinating deep down streams, we pass one after another turquoise-blue lakes, not allowing ourselves to stop near them for swimming. Melted streams run from the mountains, shimmering like bells in waterfalls, and gather in sapphire lakes. The water in them seems to be alive. At some point we stopped at the deepest lake, fascinated by the movement of the waves. The waves run according to their own unknown laws, play with each other, and it seems as if they are doing this quite consciously. We swim and smoke a pipe. The water here is also scalding cold.
After hundreds of colorful stones we see a massive stone “structure”. The Valar claim that Trolls live here. Indeed, even Masha felt something otherworldly here... Therefore, we don’t stay long :)
Soon, between the diverging walls of the gorge, we had a view of the wooded Lovozero valley. We sit on a large stone slab and admire...
On the way back, it struck us that Andrei and Nastya were already waiting for travelers from other dimensions, and we immediately rushed to the camp. This time we walked along the other side of the lakes, in the shadow of a rock. Everything seemed gloomy, and the feeling that someone was watching us could not leave us. For me personally, this was a serious internal test.
Cunningly cheerful Andrei and Nastya were waiting for us at the camp. It turned out that we were not late at all. To celebrate, Vova and I took another swim in the bath by the glacier, and then the whole group sat for a long time in the transparent, light twilight.
The path to the Light Lake, where pink clouds are reflected in the water
Good morning, beautiful, virgin world!
After a light breakfast we set off on the road to Lake Svetloye. I really don’t want to leave the fairy valley...
The path seems difficult. We ford the Svetlaya River several times.
We take a break at a wonderful turquoise couloir with a waterfall.
Soon the walls of the gorge part, and we find ourselves in a valley covered with dense thickets of bushes.
We settled down for lunch on a cozy green edge, where we managed to take a little nap and restore our strength, which had suddenly disappeared somewhere. A herbal drink called “sagan-dailya”, carefully prepared by Volodya, helped us a lot.
We've been walking almost all day. The eye rejoices at the fragrant herbs. Nature is generous, and during rest stops we actively refresh ourselves with ripe berries.
Mosquitoes begin to appear in the forest area. They really wanted to eat us! Thank God, we have repellent agents with us, which we, casting aside any feeling of disgust towards chemistry, hastened to use.
The last river crossing was successfully completed. And soon we find ourselves in a clearing near the long-awaited Svetloye Lake.
The views are like at a resort! On both sides, to the left and right of the lake, mountains rise.
In the center of the reservoir is a lonely island, densely covered with trees. There are a lot of berries here (crowberries, blueberries, blueberries), as well as midges and mosquitoes. We decide to have a snack. But it is not known who went to dinner with whom :)
We swim in a huge lake. The water is warm compared to glacial water.
I look at the evening mountain. And I feel some kind of painfully familiar, inviting space...
We sit by the fire, watching the pink clouds reflected in the water mirror. And watch the heavenly performance. In the sky today there are films about pirates, Baba Yaga, and many more about whom.
An unusual thought appeared: there are voids under the tundra. Cavities blown by the winds of the Universe.
House with mountain view
We woke up to the hellish heat! I immediately plopped into the cool water.
We sit by the fire for a long time, we don’t want to go anywhere... We are in a crystal clear space. Thoughts are synchronously voiced by each participant. Complete zen :)
Still, we decide to warm up and the four of us go (me, two Mashas and Valar) to the radial along the shore of the lake, to look at the house of the ethnographer who once lived there. The path is narrow, overgrown on the sides with fireweed and berries... Underfoot there are thick intertwined roots. Just a fairy tale! Ilya is sitting in the bushes on the bank, trying to catch fish. But we hurry on.
Soon we discovered a hut with a cute lopsided chimney and a window from which a view of the pine-covered shore of Svetloe Lake and Mount Kemespahkchorr opens up. Lost among the thickets of flowers and herbs, the house was especially beautiful. And if it didn’t stink there of the stale remains of food that stupid tourists dragged inside, it would be completely good.
We reached a plateau. Stones are scattered everywhere on the moss, and, it seems to me, in the form of symbols. I walk slowly along the flat surface. I was overcome by some strange feeling that we were visible everyone. I fell into deep thought. Only the lake managed to pull me out of it, in this part of which the water was colder than next to the camp.
Along the way, one of the Mashas suddenly became thoughtful and also stayed for a swim at one of the many nice sites. And then the thoughtfulness happened to another Masha, but together we somehow coped with the feelings that came over us and returned safely to the camp.
Andrey, Nastya and Ilya were waiting for us on the shore of the lake.
We sit for some time and contemplate the waves running on the water. Sunset is approaching, exploding the sky with bright colors...
Emerald hills and Lovozero panorama
The sunny day started with swimming again!
After breakfast we go on a radial hike to the top of Mount Vavnbed. We systematically walked around it in a circle, eating all kinds of berries along the way.
I tried cloudberries for the first time in my life. This is a luxurious treat!
Again we saw several partridges. They are perfectly camouflaged in stones, so there is no point in looking for them in the photo :)
We reached the emerald hills. They shimmer with green, like on Scottish postcards. The wind sends waves of ripples through the grasses, and their stems sway, shaking their inflorescences. We look for a suitable place for a snack and go out to a rocky terrace on the edge of a cliff.
We have a stunning view of Lovozero. On the mirror of almost boundless deep blue waters, black islands grew here and there. All together they form an asymmetrical beautiful pattern. We are on top of the world. The wind gently ruffles your hair and blows from all sides...
We walk along the slope. We came across a mysterious pond where weightless shining white balls grow among the cobblestones - as it turned out later, this plant is called “cotton grass”.
The weather is gloomy... By the time we got to the camp, it started to rain. We pull up the tent and enjoy some lard together.
In the evening we are shown a unique blueberry sunset. The whole sky lit up with crimson, pink and purple hues... While drinking pu-erh, we observed how the surface of the lake turned crimson.
We stood on the shore for a long time and admired the unearthly beauty. True, according to popular belief, after bright sunsets the next day there is bad weather.
Fogs on Mount Kuyvchorr
When we wake up, we find that all the colors are turned off. The sky is overcast with gray clouds. We pack up camp and head up the mountain.
Along the way we make a few stops for fortification and eat blueberries/blueberries. I look back: fog hung over our lake. Soon the air near us became damp and heavy. Rain is coming.
At the top of Mount Kuyvchorr, nothing was visible at all: a dense, damp fog descended on the plateau, enveloping our already frozen bodies in a chilly shiver. Covered in wet clothes, we walked and walked over endless slippery stones through gusts of chilly wind and cold streams of rain. After consulting, we decided to return to our beautiful Svetlye Lakes. We had a glimmer of hope that in the lowlands the wind would be kinder and would not blow us by the collar like that...
The Milky Way flowed along the bottom of the valley. We set up tents. We brew coffee on a burner, but no one is eager to get out of the tents :) I boldly acted as a coffee distributor to the rooms :) We all have dinner in our houses... It rains all night.
Rain on the planet Tundra
In the morning there are rare glimpses in the sky. Coffee, packing, and off we go. We go to our first stop – Voronova Gora.
About half a day on the road, and now we find ourselves on a site strewn with the remains of geologists' houses - that is, boards. We really need firewood!
We fill our backpacks with pieces of wood. We collect water from a nice nearby spring, and soon find ourselves on the Karnasurta plateau, our first stop.
We set up camp and it starts to rain. Until the evening we are in his arms. It was dark all around, curtains hung over the tundra. We are alone in this world...
We shout to each other from the tents - we are inspecting the products. Supplies are running low. Tomorrow we need to go down from the mountains and buy food in the village of Revda.
Offering to Moonraven
It’s a cloudy morning, but there’s no need to hesitate – you need to get to the store before the bread disappears from the shelves. We get ready and the four of us (Andrey, Valar, Ilyusha and I) head out into civilization.
It turned out to be not only just as gray, but also disgusting... Volodya bought a kilogram of pickled herring, which for some reason he really wanted. After lengthy shopping (we always try to leave these places of the world as quickly as possible, but it doesn’t always work out) we return to the mine, from which our path led us to a large stone, near which we stopped for a snack at the beginning of the hike.
Let's rest... I breathe in the clean mountain air again, and it seems as if the tundra is taking a breath with me. I hear the song of the spirits - the sound of the wind somewhere high in the gorges... The spirits rejoice.
We return, and there is the Moon! Huge, it hung over the blue-green hills and flooded everything with its silver light. A fire is burning in the hearth. We open the herring, and it turns out that it is rotten :)
We decided to give the herring to the local crows.
The nights became completely dark. We sit by the fire for a long time, play the guitar...
Sacred Sami Valley
Having got out of the tents, we see soft sunlight spreading across the entire plateau.
The stone on which the herring was left is empty. Offering accepted!
We go to the sacred Sami valley. While descending we see how our yok (river) snakes and glistens in the sun
According to some reports, the Elmorajok gorge is located at the site of a tectonic fault, which means we are in a gap between worlds! Below, the sensations are completely different - fairy-tale-elven :)
All around is green and everything is dotted with inky beads of berries, dwarf birch trees grow, and our path, meandering, runs among them. We gallop along giant whitewashed stones - a dry river bed. By the way, in the old Sami times, only a shaman could descend into the valley.
Halt by the raging river. We drink enough and fill up with water.
The swampy area begins. We are walking along the edge of the quagmire. The swamp exudes some absolutely unimaginable pleasant aromas... From here there is a view of the mountain of the giant Kuyva - Kuyvchorr, at the top of which the fog took us by surprise. According to legend, Kuyva is walled up in this mountain range.
Indeed: we see a huge black silhouette on a rock in the distance... This means that Kuiva is the owner of this place. I greet him internally.
We take turns crossing an interestingly designed bridge over a wide turquoise stream: a long log with only one railing, and then located at an angle of 45º.
On the bridge there is an inscription: “Amazing” :)
Along the way you meet people. They are camping in a forested area. We are moving further, to a lonely cape, washed by the waters of Seydozero.
We set up tents, and a storm hits us again. It’s as if nature makes it clear that it sees and feels us. We are at the mercy of the northern elements! There is nowhere to run away, nowhere to hide from the fierce wind and raging waves...
The tent was pulled up. It rains all evening and all night... There are already puddles under the tents. And we sit until dawn and sing songs with a guitar, warming ourselves from the inside. That’s how we named our island: Buyan.
Shaman Lake
I slept sweetly!..
The weather has improved :) Over breakfast, Masha told us her dream, in which she was shown our place without decorations: as if a spaceship was hidden under Seydozero, and the entrance to it was guarded by a friendly Hyperborean serpent. It's amazing how places like this respond to sincere, open-hearted people.
We go to the radial to Shaman Lake. Mystical, mysteriously absorbing, it requires silence from the traveler. The boundaries of the lake are framed by age-old stones overgrown with jade moss, and the sun is reflected on its surface like the moon.
We saw that beyond the clear waters, whitish-bluish stones rested at the bottom. At some point, I really wanted to dive into the water and touch them: it seemed that they were created from some kind of non-existent rock... But something held back the impulse.
We sit on the shore for a long time, listening to the lake. And the lake listens to us.
We go to the camp. We encounter a giant seid, broken into two halves. Volodya somehow climbed to the top, and it was scary to watch him then go down the birch...
At “Potryasnoe” our men swam, taking turns diving with fish from the bridge into the stream. At this time a squirrel was spotted. We couldn’t resist and left her some cheese as a treat, although she was probably already well-fed :)
In the evening the whole group was in a lyrical mood. A huge white Moon floated out, covering the dark waters of our lake with the shimmering reflections of the lunar road. Nastya built a sand castle on the shore. We remembered a lot of beautiful old songs and read poems by our favorite poets until late at night.
UFO parking lot
From the very morning the sky frowned, and by the time the camp was assembled it sent a huge gray cloud towards us. But we have already stayed here. It is time.
Soon the weather cleared, and we walked through the picturesque jungle, ate red currants and watched rainbow stripes in the sky.
The shortcut brought us to the UFO parking lot.
The place here is kind of... Collapsing. Rare pine trees, for a mysterious reason, are yellow-red in color.
Nearby there is a pit, on the site of which there was a lake ten years ago. Now, at its bottom, messages from tourists are lined with stones.
After setting up the tents, we began to prepare food, and then a black cloud reached us, apparently still wandering somewhere in the surrounding area. It rained a little, but we had to cook under its cold drops.
We went mushroom hunting - they grew right before our eyes. Having wandered into the sparkling green thicket in search of them, I walked towards the camp and unexpectedly found myself in a mysterious lake hollow. I don’t know how... The place confused me!
It was getting late. Unknown animals swam across the sky, and the first stars lit up overhead...
At night, everyone simultaneously woke up in their tents from a loud, heartbreaking howl. Volodya immediately determined that it was the Chupacabra who went for a walk.
Visiting the Chupacabra
We spent the entire morning discussing the sounds of the night.
After breakfast, the guys went on a radial hike into the gorge.
I decided to stay in the camp as a duty officer.
I wanted to meditate in this absorbing place, imbued with mysticism. Volodya was left with me so that I would not be afraid of the Chupacabra.
For dinner we prepared assorted mushrooms with lard :)
At dusk, they drank pu-erh by the fire and were silent. Zen evening... Volodya went to check the Chupacabra and found a pheasant.
I can't believe this is our last night...
Farewell to Tundra
Early rise. The sky is overcast with lilac clouds.
We go out and a rainbow flashes in the sky. A huge mushroom grew on the ground. Seeing off...
We move along the valley and see several groups scurrying from tundra to tundra.
While climbing Voronova Mountain it started to rain. I don't put on a raincoat, I get wet. Tundra hugs me goodbye and I feel good about the chill.
Fogs are creeping onto the plateau. The world is erased, closing the doors behind us. Already below, at the foot of the mountains, I turn around - and I see only a dense white wall...
Ahead of us lies gray Revda, gloomy, rainy Olenegorsk and long hours of waiting for the train at the station. Well, now each of us is in our own world.
“See you later,” Tundra sings. “See you later,” I answer with my heart...