Tourist skis: features of choice. How to choose flat walking skis Hiking with plastic touring skis

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Much has been said about the role of ski preparation in biathletes' starts, especially this topic became relevant after the 2013 World Championships in Nove Mesto. The moaning of the athletes about the fact that "... the skis did not go" prompted me to try to figure out how the skis are selected for the upcoming season, how the skis are prepared for a specific start. Experts in discussing this issue will be two-time Olympic champion Anna Bogaliy and, in my opinion, the best of domestic servicers Mikhail Koloskov, as well as Alexander Zavyalov, a former skier and now an expert at Fisher in Russia. Due to the fact that the bulk of the “collections” use Fisher skis, the emphasis is on the skis of this brand.

According to the sliding surface, the Fisher skis are divided into:

Cold models have a sliding surface
A5 - universal cold base at t -2C and below
Models Plus, S-track, Zero have a sliding surface
28 - universal warm base for t -5C and above
5 - warm base on old snow.

Alexander Zavialov (A. Z.) - “Warm and cold skis naturally have different bases. Warm base - 28th. There is a 5th base, but it is mainly for water, and the athletes of these skis usually have one pair each. What is the difference in plastic? Warm skis have a higher percentage of graphite. This is done so that there is no so-called moisture infiltration, since a larger percentage of graphite creates a greater porosity of the sliding surface, which prevents moisture infiltration. warm skis also have softer socks with heels.

In cold skis, the percentage of graphite is less, their sliding surface is smoother and has a slightly grayish tint. The design of cold skis is more rigid, designed for frosty, and, consequently, tougher tracks, and this is done so that the ski does not collect this snow under it.

Not every athlete who is not included in national team countries can afford to have 10-20 pairs of skis. How to get out of this situation?

A. Z. - “If we take “warm” skis - with a 28 base (not every athlete can afford to have both “warm”, and “cold”, and “super warm” skis at the same time), then with the help of knurling and creating an appropriate structure, we can solve the problem for different temperature conditions. It is very desirable, of course, that the knurling be pressing, and not cutting. The result of knurling disappears after two or three treatments (applying-removing paraffin), and again the factory steinslip remains. On "cold" skis, Fisher has a cold joint, on "warm" skis - a universal one. Fisher skis are considered universal - you can easily close the entire season with one or two pairs when using knurling. Skis from other companies, for example, Madshus, are also very good, but they have a narrower stainshield.

Fischer ski structure:

  • P10-1 below -5 old snow
  • С1-1 below -5 new natural snow, fine-grained
  • С3-1 below -5 artificial snow
  • C8-1 0-10 artificial
  • С12-1 below -5 natural snow
  • Р1-1 +3-5 universal
  • P3-1 0 to heat, fresh snow
  • Р3-2 wet snow
  • Р3-3 +5 to heat very wet spring snow
  • Р5-0 0-5 dry fine-grained snow
  • P5-1 0 to heat, very hard snow
  • Р5-9 0 wet, old snow for CL skis

So what exactly is "ski structure"?

Mikhail Koloskov (M.K.) - "Hello! I will answer point by point: the structure of the ski is a specially applied pattern on the surface of the ski, with a special stone installed on the grinding machine. Each pattern is different in shape and depth and corresponds to a specific snow structure (temperature, humidity, condition). Some structures have a very small temperature range, and since the ski run is not homogeneous, i.e. there is a difference in temperature and humidity of snow in different areas, then when choosing a structure, one should take into account the ratio of the number of kilometers of the route corresponding to this structure. Therefore, sometimes, on some sections of the route, the athlete wins, and somewhere he loses. So this year at the World Cup, the snow humidity at the stadium was 25%, and on the track 19%, and those who skied within the stadium lost at the far end of the distance. If you sometimes noticed that only representatives of one company are on the pedestal. There are places where skis of a certain company work well, i.e. this company has the best structure for this snow. Fischer has more than 15 structures for different snow, Madshus has no more than 5.


Structures and a machine for applying a manual structure over the one already on the skis. It is not always used, only when it is really needed! Sometimes it worsens the glide, as it changes the corporate pattern. The hand structure disappears after treatment with paraffin, iron, and the sanding caused by the stone does not disappear after heat treatment!

As athletes in national team countries, work with firms - manufacturers of skis?

M.K. - “Each athlete concludes a contract with a certain firm, which is more suitable for the parameters of the athlete. The contract then describes the prize money, the number of issued skis. Skis are rolled, the best ones remain, the rest can be exchanged for others. The company takes on the responsibility of ski polishing, at the request of the athlete. This is what the service providers do."

Anna Bogaliy (A. B.) - “Skis are selected at the factory for each individual. Taking into account the height and weight characteristics, as well as the service team, at the beginning of the season, it helps to determine what "rides" ... Change what is "worth")) This is a very delicate process. In general, skiing is a lot of work! Luck is also important: sometimes a pair is not new, but it goes very well! And the new ones are worth it. They carried everything in different ways: from 8-10 pairs, up to 20, and even some for several years a collection of different structures and models ... 25-30 pairs each. It all depends on the skis, brand and level of the athlete (very individual). Everyone chooses skis (with whom to work from firms) and concludes individual contracts.



In the first picture, Fisher skis (not tested), in the second - tested by servicers.

How is the preparation of the selection of skis for a specific race?

M.K. - “Preparing skis for a certain race is a very complex and long process. Firstly, the servicer looks at the weather forecast for the day of the race, in accordance with this, the day before the race, preferably during the start of the athlete, a certain number of skis corresponding to the weather are rolled back, usually from six to ten or more pairs of skis. Usually this is done by the servicer, sometimes together with the athlete. It is better to carry out hauling on the entire route, because the quality of snow is different in different sections. It is necessary to select skis that work stably on the entire track, these are 4-8 pairs. The servicer runs 20 to 30 km a day. All selected skis are washed with paraffin and prepared for hauling immediately before the race.

On the day of the race, the first thing to do is measure the temperature and humidity of the snow and air. On special (test) skis, there are usually 20 pairs for powder test and 10 paraffin, lubrication options are applied for a given day. 2-2.5 hours before the start, the athletes' skis and test skis are taken out for hauling. First, the skis of the athletes are rolled back, i.e. one best pair is selected, the most appropriate for the weather conditions, given snow. Skis are selected in the same way on the entire track, tested at speed because all skis work differently at speed. When the best pair of the athlete is selected, the servicers proceed to the selection of the lubrication option (paraffin, powder, accelerator, manual structure). Tests also take place throughout the track. 1 hour before the start of the race, all selected skis are carried to the box, where the best lubrication option is applied to the best pair of the athlete. If there are two races per day, then everything is repeated from the beginning. After the race, all used skis are washed and processed.

What skis do the athletes invited to World Cup By results performances at the IBU Cup and Russian competitions? What happened in Antholz when Katya Yuryeva after the finish (93rd place in the sprint) threw in her hearts: “Who needs firewood to kindle a fireplace”?

M.K. - “Each servicer is assigned 2-4 athletes, he is responsible for the selection and preparation of the skis of his wards. Athletes who came from the IBU Cup have their own set of skis, sometimes not quite meeting the requirements. Although the firms go to a meeting and give out additional pairs to athletes participating in the World Cup.

Yuryeva in Antholz competed on her own skis, a foreign team was responsible for the selection and preparation, so I can’t say anything specific about this race. Pikhler and Rostovtsev were against Katya's participation in the stages, so draw your own conclusions(although... the German said that he was happy with Katya's victories at KIBU and was glad to invite him to the national team. Again, the German was convicted of lying... author's note ). And when they found out that she trusts the Russian service more, then ... ".

P.S. If you have any more questions for our experts, ask during the discussion of the topic.

Tips and Instructions

Introduction

Below is the text, which is a generalization of amateur experience. No more. Consider this as an invitation to discussion.

Part 1

Does plastic dry?

The wettability of plastic by paraffin is a phenomenon in the thinnest boundary layer. The presence of contaminants, oxidation can interfere with the contact of plastic and paraffin. The paraffin film will not be continuous, which means it will not be strong. It is often recommended to scrape new skis immediately. This is an unnecessarily harsh method. New skis can be shaggy, can be scuffed by greasy hands, and won't pick up wax. However, the store structure is more good than bad, and it is desirable to keep it. There is a gentle method of updating the sliding surface (SP) - the use of a thin steel brush. Then wash the skis with service paraffin and carry out basic training.

Pile

The joint venture of the new ski is smooth, beautiful, the structure is visible, but ... it doesn’t roll at all. Perhaps they missed the weather. But the most likely cause is lint. Cheap (and expensive!) ski plastic can be covered with thin elongated plastic particles when applying the structure. The edges of the grooves of the new structure are uneven, torn. Alas, it is impossible to feel the character of the ski if there is pile on the joint venture. In order for the skis to go in their weather, the pile must be cleaned.

Options for action:

  1. Alternate treatment of skis with soft and hard paraffins, cleaning with rotary brushes. The best brush for cleaning lint is steel very fine racing (very thin steel, very expensive).
  2. Ride, apply paraffins and ride. Skiing can take a while, sometimes after 500 km.
  3. Cycle new skis. You can gently remove the pile with a razor scraper, or you can completely demolish the store structure.
  4. Polishing with a synthetic dishcloth without abrasive chips can help - an analogue of branded fibertex. A combination of methods works.

Ski profile

For Atomic they write that they have a Worldcup Speed ​​profile, for Fisher - Worldcup Skate, and so each manufacturer has its own words. So what is it? Modern skis can have different widths at the toe and heel, in the block. The distribution of the width of the ski along its length is called the profile. It came from skiing. Skis narrowed in the block have a “fitted” profile. These skis are more comfortable to push on a hard, icy track. Now the skating itself has changed, everyone has begun to worry about directional stability when skating on one leg. Appeared "arrow-shaped" profile. But they often write one thing, but if you measure a ski with a ruler, you will see something else. In any case, the profile is not a reason to prefer a certain brand of skis. After all, it is not the profile itself that works, but the combination of torsion stiffness - profile. If the toe of the ski is made soft, then it makes no sense to load it when repulsing, it must be narrowed. In the place where the power plate of the ski, which determines its resistance to twisting and rigidity, begins, it is reasonable to expand the ski. We get the "cobra" Rossignol and Worldcup Speed ​​Atomic. And Fisher does the same. Further, depending on the internal structure, on the relative rigidity of the central part of the ski, it is advantageous to narrow it or leave it flat ... That is, any top ski profile is good. It corresponds to the plot, the plot corresponds to the weather/ski. Madshus produces skis with three different plots for different runs and their respective profiles.

How to measure the immeasurable?

It is very interesting to find out how different skis interact with snow. It is not possible to directly peep the process, models are built. Skis are measured in the laboratory. The problem is that it's hard to model everything. For example, a skier rolls on one ski, applying his weight close to the heel of the boot, and pushes somewhere near the toe of the boot. That is, during each step, it rolls from heel to toe. In the laboratory, the snow was replaced with a solid base, the point of application of the skier's weight was fixed. When talking about a ski plot, you need to understand that this is just a model. And measuring skis for soft snow on hard ground is wrong. But it's easier.

What are "warm" skis and "cold" skis?

The ski plot is how the ski distributes the weight of the skier model onto the snow model (solid base). The most obvious characteristic of a ski, which determines the glide in different conditions. There is a B-shaped plot, typical for frosty skis, there is a C-shaped plot for warm weather. Mentally put the letters B and C on their side and you will understand what we are talking about. The difference is in the sharpness of the pressure peaks and in the length of the pad. The B-plot has long, spread out pressure peaks under the front and back of the ski, distributing the skier's weight evenly. This is good for frost and soft skiing. The C-shaped has sharp pressure peaks, which reduces the phenomenon of "suction" in wet conditions, it is convenient on a hard track.

Skis with a combined diagram of the sun are common. The anterior pressure hump is sharp (C), while the posterior one is smooth (B). There is also an A - diagram. Very long block, ski as a spring, toe and heel are very hard. In order to make skis with different plots, the ski design is changed. Madshus makes skis in three designs (three different diagrams): SC, R, HP. On soft, normal and hard snow, respectively.

Fisher releases skis of the 610th and 115th designs for soft and dense tracks, Atomic simply writes warm or cold (warm or cold) plot. Not to be confused with plastic and structure! The letters on the sticker w or c - the type of diagram, due to the design of the ski (warm, cold), y or d - the type of plastic (warm, cold). For non-sport shop skis, warm plastic is applied to a warm structure. In the sports shop there are cold ones by design, but with warm plastic and vice versa. Those. a ski with any diagram can have warm or cold plastic (graphite content depends) and a huge variety of structures on the sliding surface. It is not surprising that professionals carry trunks with 20 pairs of skis. It's hard for fans too. After all, it is impossible to change the design of a ski with any lubricant, but you want to go fast both in frost and in spring ... Talk about the "universality" of Fisher and the "narrow range" of Madshus are marketing tricks. Moreover, the better the manufacturer masters the technology, the “sharper” he “sharpenes” his skis for specific conditions of use. You have to have a lot of skis. Different brands. The specialization of skis according to the type of plot is a correct and inevitable process.

What is a "suck"?

When you try to ski on “cold” skis in warm weather, it is noticeable how, during acceleration, the ski starts to slow down, sticks. Although at the lowest speed, sliding can even be perfect. This inhibits the viscosity of excess water created by friction. They struggle with this in the same way as in the floats of seaplanes (they use a redan) - by reducing the contact area. To reduce the area of ​​contact between the joint venture and the water film, skis with a special diagram, structures, and knurling are used. The purpose of fluorine lubricants is the same, but when a lot of water is formed, the lubricant cannot cope.

Structure

The structure is a three-dimensional drawing, cut out or extruded on the joint venture. Depending on the properties of the snow, it is designed to divert or retain water formed from friction under the ski. In warm conditions, there is an excess of water, in frosty conditions - a deficiency. Structures are linear and discontinuous, for example, of the "intermittent herringbone" type. There are several explanations for why they work. (But they work!) According to one of the options, the structure is a drainage, with the help of which water is forced out to a less loaded place in the joint venture. The wetter the snow, the deeper and longer the drainage must be to drain water from under the pressure humps. According to another explanation, the structure is "drainage in reverse." The snow under the furrow experiences less pressure than under a flat surface, does not melt, the water rushing along the ski runs into a snow island and breaks away from the SP. That is, furrows are not conductors of water, but vice versa. I think that both options correctly explain the work of different types of structures (linear and intermittent), in different weather.

The colder and drier the weather, the shallower the drainage. There are extrusion knurling for applying a frosty structure with rollers that form almost transverse dents on the joint venture (herringbone) without longitudinal grooves at all. The reverse is also true. The Super Riller from SWIX is often used on water, which cuts wide linear grooves on the joint venture. Improvement of sliding does not hinder (helps?) even the small amount of pile formed in this case.

I draw your attention to the fact that the structure does not eliminate the need for a special diagram. The possibilities of the structure are limited.

Heard many times that cold skis went to heat, and warm to frost. There is nothing surprising in this. This once again proves that the ski pattern is more significant for glide than the type of plastic and structure. Atomic's warm construction skis have sharp, short snow contact areas that help on hard skis. Rigid ski track - there was no snowfall for a long time, the ski track was rolled up. But in cold weather, precipitation is the least likely. So the warm ski rolls on hard frosty snow. Cold skis distribute the pressure more evenly over the snow, which sometimes allows you not to sink on a broken track, on fresh snow. In warm weather, precipitation is more likely than in cold weather. That's right, when choosing skis, you need to look at the density of the ski track before the temperature. Fisher should not be guided by the inscriptions plus - cold at all. The inscriptions report secondary parameters! Marking the design on the toe of the ski is necessary and it is she who has the most to do with glide! In shop skis, plus - cold is a type of plastic and structure and says nothing about the construction. One Rossignol divides its skis into S1 and S2 types depending on the density of the skiing, into dense and soft slopes. (the type of plastic is the same!) All professional skis have a distribution by design.

What is "rolling" skis?

The ones that go furthest down the hill? Or those on which it is easier to roll uphill? There is a contradiction between sliding skis downhill and skiing uphill, when the weight of the whole body is transferred to one ski. In both cases, the ski plot must match the ski/weather, despite the very different load (as well as snow density and speed). On the descent, the weight is distributed on two skis, excessive rigidity is harmful. In the rise, each ski must support the weight of the entire body. Yes, plus the power of pushing with the foot. Only a compromise is possible here, it is impossible to fully satisfy both requirements, although there are attempts. Fisher makes skis with very low initial stiffness. In process of compression rigidity increases sharply, we rest against an inflexible block. It cannot be pushed by either ½ or the full weight of the skier. And often not at all! The skis act like boards but are easy to pick up as they cover a wide range of weights. Skis go under almost everyone. But not in the best way. After all, the block should touch the snow at least when pushing with the foot. They try to make such skis in the sports shop. Based on the barcode of each ski, you can find out its stiffness in kilograms! This does not mean that they will suit all skiers with this weight and for all conditions. There are also preferences in technology, there is a specialization of skis according to the conditions of use. The amateur proportion between the stiffness of the ski and the weight of the skier is 0.9-1.0. For professionals, it can be 1.1 (For the pros, this hard pair is far from the only one). In any case, the coefficient depends not so much on the level of training of the athlete, but on the density of the track and its relief. It makes no sense to choose hard skis for an amateur track. (There is an exception - spring races on coarse-grained snow.) And too soft skis will not allow you to easily roll into climbs. Fisher is the best brand for the amateur who can only afford one pair of skis and chooses them without equipment, by touch. The Fisher PLUS 610 design with NIS has been a bestseller in recent seasons. A lot of people prefer the old RCS to the new RCS Carbonlite. For the Atomic Worldcup, the cold design is recommended as the only pair, as the most versatile.

How many skis should an amateur skier taking part in competitions have?

If your competitions are held in the same region, then skis with the following qualities are required:

  1. "Asphalt" skiing on little snow. As a rule, former military, well-deserved.
  2. "Medium frosty", -1° -10°, soft track. B plot.
  3. "Warm" for hard snow. The choice between super hard skis with BC-plot and standard (your weight) skis with C-plot. In both cases, skis are better fitted. JV with a fine structure. With additional knurling, they will come in handy on water and coarse-grained snow, without it - on a very dense, rolled up ski track - “concrete”, frost.
  4. “Frosty”, colder than -12 °, on a prepared ski track of medium density, without loose snow and “concrete”. Such skis must be carefully selected according to the weight of the skier. Indeed, if in “warm” skis a change in load leads to a change in the position of short pressure humps, and may not worsen glide at all, then in “frosty” skis the shape of the humps may be distorted, which, in fact, makes the skis frosty. It is always more difficult to obtain a plot with flat, uniform humps than with sharp ones.

Point 2 is most in demand for amateurs, and it is advisable to duplicate it with exactly the same pair for testing lubricants. Total: 5 pairs, of which 3 are combat. It will not work to save on quantity, but on money it is possible. When buying TOP skis from the collections of past seasons, we get savings of up to 50% without losing useful properties. The plot of the old model may be better than the new one. Even extra grams of weight will not overshadow the pleasure of good work and excellent glide of skis that match the weather. You can make it a rule every year to buy a pair of last year's skis for the weather in which you rolled badly last season. It happens that the model of such and such a year is unsuccessful, the company has changed the technology, but has not fully mastered it. This was the case when Fisher switched to the CAP design. Everything is already known about last year's skis: a successful or unsuccessful model!

And of course, success is not measured by the number of medals. Only reviews from fans! The failure of your favorite company is a good reason to try other skis. There is no need to be afraid that a stale pair is obviously unsuccessful - if complex measuring devices are not used in the store, then the percentage of winnings in the lottery where rolling skis are played does not fall over time. Indeed, without checking on the snow, it is difficult to understand the nature of the ski. In this regard, the advent of the NIS system and the factory paraffin-embedding of the joint venture plays against amateurs. You can run into a professional rejection of skis that look like brand new, and they have already been tested on the ski track, especially since someone’s sports season may start earlier than yours.

During a multi-day winter hike, tourists constantly have to make many hours of ski crossings on flat and rough terrain, slide down and climb slopes of various steepness, walk on virgin soil, trailing in the thickness of snow, reaching up to one meter. Experienced tourists and skiers are well aware that they don’t ride on tourist skis and don’t even run, but walk. Yes, yes, they do! Therefore, one should not be surprised that the speed that they are able to develop is by no means their main quality. And what is the main thing?

Much more important are reliability, maneuverability, the absence of recoil and slip (sticking of snow on the “sole” of the skis), as well as the correct selection of skis for a particular person.

How to choose hiking skis?

Tourist skis are personal sports equipment, they are selected individually, and the comfort of the entire trip, both for their owner and for the whole group, depends on how well this is done. It is generally accepted that skis should be as long as a person with an arm raised up, and sticks should reach the armpits.

But I have a different opinion. I choose skis according to the formula - height plus 10 - 15 cm. And then it becomes more convenient to manage them on descents and ascents, as well as in thickets. Sticks should be on the shoulder, because. they partially go under the snow, because, unlike a ski trip, the trip most often takes place off the beaten track. These selection rules apply to all models and types of skis, both plastic and wooden.

Useful articles:

Traditional, wooden skis

Skiing "Beskid". In Soviet times, "Beskid" - tourist skis, it was almost impossible to buy in a store. I bought them from my hands, already in a “similar” condition, and appreciated them on the first trip. Well-tarred and rubbed with silver ointment, they roll no worse than cross-country ones both through the forest and over the mountains.

Their advantages are reliability and excellent handling on the track and on the descent due to the steel edge. I went through all the Khibiny in them, I can say that I don’t know the best skis for tourism yet. Their “average” width of 75 mm is also pleasing - they are not as wide as the “Forest” and not as narrow as the running ones. Of the shortcomings, perhaps, it can only be noted that during the thaw it can be sticky, like all wooden ones.

update from 12/03/2013 Still, Mayak launched the production of Beskyd skis. However, they are sold only by the manufacturer under the order and prepaid. The application can be left in the group of the ski factory "VKontakte". The cost is 4500 rubles. + the cost of delivery by a transport company (for example, delivery to St. Petersburg costs 500 rubles)

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75mm
Price: approx. 4500 rub.
Recommendations: the best skis for tourism

Skis "Forest". I walked a lot on these skis and through the forest for which they are intended, and through the mountains, and through the bare endless tundra. If the thread of the route passes through the forest, then "Forest" in this case is one of the best options, especially if there is a lot of trekking. But on rough terrain they are harder. When descending, they are almost uncontrollable, so there is a chance to roll not only in front, but also sideways or backwards. The “herringbone” rise is also complicated - because of the width, “Forest” is difficult to put on edge. Because of it, problems appear when moving along the ski track - you simply do not fit in it.

I went to the "Forest" and the Pansky tundra on the Kola. On the third day, their sliding surface turned into a slab - the wood from which they are made is too soft. And one more drawback - "Forest" often burst from the side of the heel - along, along the glued layers. But, nevertheless, the "Forest" served their worthy. In a situation of shortage of Beskyd, there were no other options, except how to choose skis for tourist Lesnye. Previously, they were produced in Novgorod, today they are made in Kirov, at the Mayak plant, as well as at the Vologda ski factory. I did not have to go to the "Forest" of the last two manufacturers. At present, this model is practically not used by the tourists I know.

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 110 mm
Price: 1500 - 1900 rubles.
Recommendations: hiking in the forest, fishing, hunting

Tourist skis "Tourist-Mayak". Skis "Tourist - Mayak", in fact, the same "Beskid" - a remake, but without edges. I have already tested them. I can say that the skis are good for their price - 1500 rubles. Strong enough. The correct width is 75 mm, there are three types of 180 cm, 190 cm and 200 cm. The first two “heights” are in fact 176 and 186, the last one I have not seen in stores, but it is in the Mayak price list. As well as there is a wood-plastic version of the "Tourist", which is 100 rubles. more expensive than the wooden one I use.

Skis are suitable for those who are going to buy them for one - one and a half seasons. Then, the edges of the skis will be rounded. If, of course, they survive until then at all. In general, a normal budget option.

Characteristics
Material: wood, wood-plastic
Width: 75mm
Price: 1500 - 1700 rubles.
Recommendations: for those who want to try their hand at ski tourism

Soldier or, as they are also called, army skis are another miracle of the defense industry. These are ordinary softwood touring skis, i.e. their edges wear off quickly. I had to look a little like them. I was surprised that I did not meet them less than 220 cm. Probably, the army, ordering these skis, believes that our soldiers are just grenadiers. In general, because of such a length, it is very difficult to walk through the forest in them, and when climbing like a herringbone, you step on your heels.

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75mm
Price: issued free of charge to the defenders of the fatherland
Recommendations: use only when no alternatives are available

As a rule, "hardened tourists" - adherents of the "old school" walk on the "pieces of wood", noting their main advantages - the almost complete absence of returns and the absence of the need to use expensive and capricious ointments. Young people and innovators are calling for a break from the ossified tradition, believing that the future of ski tourism lies in plastic. However, my personal experience suggests otherwise.

Useful articles:

  • Skiing "Beskid"
  • Skis "Forest"
  • Skis "Tourist"
  • Ski tour
  • Skins for skis

Hiking on plastic tourist skis

Cross-country skiing. Cross-country skis are sometimes used as tourist skis. And they are quite suitable if it is a simple hike - a weekend or a couple of days, passes through a wooded area with knurled ski tracks. Just keep in mind that if the skis are plastic, then you need an ointment for the appropriate temperature (especially an ointment from recoil), which you still need to be able to select, as well as quickly change when the weather changes. Otherwise, the ski trip will be remembered "not kindly" and for a very long time.

Characteristics
Material: plastic
Width: 60-65mm
Price: from 1500 rubles.
Recommendations: You can go on short and easy hikes

Skiing. In those days, when it was impossible to buy high-quality tourist skis, mountain skis were adapted for hiking. I don't have much experience with alpine skiing. A couple of times I went to see them in Khibiny. The skis were called "Polsport". They are well managed, but, like all plastic ones, there is a danger of "not getting into the ointment." In general, it’s not bad if you carry a set of ointment from recoil and cycle with you - remove the old ointment.

My use of mountain skis in hiking ended with the fact that, crossing a hole washed by a stream, I stood with all my weight on the ski and broke it in the block. But the problems didn't end there. Deciding to use its front end, I began to rearrange the mount. But it was not there. It looks like the ski was reinforced on top with a metal plate. The screws didn't work.

Characteristics
Material: plastic and metal
Width: 70-75mm
Price: from 8000 rubles.
Recommendations: only classic alpine skis are suitable (almost not fitted), ointments for all weather conditions or skins are needed.

Tourist plastic skis with scales. This is another option for plastic touring skis. They are produced under several trademarks, for example, under the TM "Equipment". I would like to note that the scales work only on the ski track or crust, on loose snow it is of no use, but the problem with ointments is also relevant. There are several standard "sizes" - 170, 180, 190, 200 mm.

Characteristics
Material: plastic sliding surface and plastic decorative cover
Width: 70, 100 mm
Price: 3800-4500 rubles.
Recommendations: ointments and camus are needed

Manner ski-tour with skins. I only used skis and ski touring boots once, maybe I didn't taste them the first time, but I was uncomfortable. The foot is very rigid, like in a ski boot. It is necessary, apparently, to work out a special step. But there are also obvious advantages: the skin holds even on a steep slope, you can forget about the "herringbone" and "ladder". The descent is almost like skiing. Well, another significant drawback is the high price of the kit.

Dmitry Ryumkin especially for

Finally, in our Smolensk region, at least a little snow fell for a few holidays, I hooked the skis I bought in advance on the plane and decided to run them in!
That's what came out of it…

Yesterday I could not get out on the field before dark, nevertheless I decided to test how the skis behave on light and loose snow. I took a plane, walked (this is important!) to the nearest school, and right at the stadium I drove the plane through the snow with pleasure. Everything was just gorgeous, the plane easily glided through the snow almost without falling through ... Satisfied and determined to fly normally, I returned home.

This morning I went to pick up the car, the weather is fine, frost -12, sun. Having loaded the plane into the car, I went to the field. The field where we fly is about 25 minutes away by car. Arriving at the field, I pulled the plane out of the car, put it on the side of the road in loose snow and began to slowly collect it, screwed on the wings, installed the battery, checked all the mechanics and, with anticipation of yesterday's pleasure, took the plane to the take-off site ...
What was my surprise when, after giving gas, I saw that the plane did not want to move!

Here, a fool would think about why this is happening, but no ... I want to go to heaven! I thought that the snow is too light and loose and the plane digs into it with skis and does not want to glide normally ...

Well, I moved the plane to another place, I continued to rape it ... Reluctantly, my Sbashik slowly began to move ... but not for long, after driving 20 meters, he pecked with his nose and broke the propeller ... There was nothing to do, you need to go home!

Having lifted the plane out of the snow, I saw a very entertaining picture, the skis from below were literally covered with pieces of snow and ice that it was impossible to scrape off with your hands ... This is the answer to the question why the plane did not want to accelerate! Banal sticking to a warm surface.

This is how, with little loss, I gained useful experience if you take an aircraft with skis out into the cold from a warm room, car, etc. DO NOT put it with skis in the snow! Warm skis will immediately become icy and will not slip at all! You need to keep them in the cold for some time, and only then you can lower them into the snow. This is exactly what happened yesterday, when I was walking through the cold with a plane in my hands to school, for 5-7 minutes, and after that everything was fine.

As usual, your Plohish, I hope my negative experience is useful to someone!

I will answer any related questions, good luck! all my articles:

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