Climbing Elbrus in November. Ural High Mountain Club. Elbrus - tourist area

Day 1 - Arrival at the “Climbing Elbrus” program.
Meeting the group at Mineralnye Vody airport. A group transfer from Mineralnye Vody airport to the village of Terskol to the hotel will be organized for the ascent participants.

We recommend that all group members arrive at Mineralnye Vody airport in the morning before 2 pm (if possible, buy air tickets with an arrival in Mineralnye Vody at 12-1 pm) to take advantage of the transfer on the Mineralnye Vody - Terskol route.

Moving to the village of Terskol at the foot of Mount Elbrus takes 3.5 - 4 hours along a mountain road. Upon arrival - accommodation at a hotel in the village of Terskol.
Meeting with the guide. Dinner and overnight at the hotel.

Day 2 - Acclimatization to the waterfall and observatory. Climbing up to 3000 meters.
Breakfast at the hotel. Today is the first day of active acclimatization to the mountains. We will climb approximately up to 3000 meters along a very pleasant, easy mountain path to the beautiful waterfall “Maiden Braids” and further to the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

After a walk and lunch, your mountain guide will help you sort out the necessary equipment for climbing Mount Elbrus.

The missing equipment can be rented at the rental point.

Dinner and overnight at a hotel in the village of Terskol.

Day 3 - Ascent to the mountain shelter “Bochki”.
After breakfast, transfer from the hotel to the lower station of the Elbrus pendulum cableway - “Azau”. From here we take the cable car up to the Bochki mountain shelter. From this height, acclimatization trips and ascent to the highest point in Europe – Elbrus – will be carried out.

If it is windy on the day of the ascent (the lift will not work), an alternative ascent option: public cargo and personal belongings (backpacks) are lifted on a snowcat, people with light belongings are lifted on foot. Physical activity promotes adaptation to altitude. You have begun the process of altitude acclimatization.

Accommodation at the high-mountain shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels"). Light lunch with hot tea. Acclimatization hike to the end of the rock ridge: approximately to an altitude of 4400-4500 meters.

To successfully climb to the top, you will need knowledge of the technique of moving on snow and ice in crampons, you must learn how to use an ice ax and, if necessary (depending on the condition of the route), how to use a safety rope.

Your guide will conduct all necessary activities with the group during the acclimatization trek.

Descent to the shelter. Dinner and overnight at the shelter.

Day 4 - Acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov rocks (4600-4800 meters).
Breakfast. Acclimatization hike to the famous Pastukhov rocks (4600 meters - 4800 meters). It's already quite high here and close to the top. Around are the legendary Caucasian peaks. Sightseeing tour of the area.

If the weather is good on this day, you can linger a little on the Pastukhov rocks: take beautiful photos, drink hot tea from your thermoses.

On the descent, if necessary, the guide conducts classes with the group on the technique of moving on snow and ice. Practicing self-arrest techniques in the snow.

Adjusting equipment (so that everything is comfortable for movement).

Descent to the shelter. Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 5 - Rest day at the shelter.
Today is a rest day before the ascent. We recommend spending the rest day actively: it is recommended to “lower” the altitude, i.e. go down to one of the stations “Mir”, “Krugozor” or “Azau”. You can go down on foot or by cable car. Walk for a few hours and climb Bochki again. This will be beneficial for the body.

In the evening we pack our backpacks for the climb. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 6 - Climbing Elbrus - the highest point in Europe.
Today is the day of climbing Elbrus (weather permitting). Early rise at 2.00. Departure for the ascent at 3.00 o'clock.

Choosing a peak (East or West) the day before, depending on the condition of the group, weather, route.

The decision is made by the guide in agreement with the group. The decision is binding on all group members.

It takes 8-10 hours to the top of Elbrus. Participants have the opportunity to rent a snowcat to lift the group to an altitude of 4600-4800 meters and climb from this height on foot. Climbing on a snowcat saves effort and time; the decision on the advisability of renting a snowcat is decided by the group members collectively together with the guide after acclimatization.

If necessary, we also use the previously installed railings.

The deadline for reaching the summit is 13.00 (the deadline is set by your guide). After this period, the entire group must begin to descend. The descent takes 5-6 hours.

Overnight in a mountain shelter.

Day 7 - Descent to the village of Terskol or Reserve day.
Descent on the Elbrus pendulum cableway to the Azau station.
Transfer from Azau station to village. Terskol. (This day can also be used as a reserve day in case of bad weather on the previous day). Overnight in the village of Terskol.

Day 8 - Departure home.
Breakfast at the hotel. Transfer to the city of Mineralnye Vody at 9 am. It is recommended to purchase return tickets for the afternoon after 13:00 from Mineralnye Vody. Departure home.

The cost of the tour is 35,500 rubles.

The tour price includes:

Meeting and transfer Mineralnye Vody - Terskol village and back;
Transfer from Terskol village to Azau station and back;
Hotel accommodation in the village of Terskol (3 nights);
Breakfast at the hotel (3 breakfasts);
Accommodation in a high mountain shelter (4 nights);
Rent of public special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes, ice screws, carabiners - for organizing handrails) and kitchen equipment (gas burners, cylinders, kitchen utensils);
Services of professional mountain guides with experience in winter climbing (1 guide per group of 3-4 people, 2 guides per group of 5-8 people);
Food while staying at the shelter;
Chef services for preparing food at the shelter;
Payment for ascent and descent on the Elbrus pendulum cableway;
Medical Kit (located by the guide);
Registration of the group with the Ministry of Emergency Situations;
Certificate of ascent to the highest point in Europe;

The tour price does not include:

Lunches and dinners when staying at a hotel: days 1-2 and 7. The village has a large selection of cafes and restaurants with national and European cuisine. Lunch or dinner at the hotel from 400 rubles;
Rental of personal equipment for climbing Elbrus;
Renting a snowcat on the night of the ascent to lift the group from “Barrels” to the Pastukhov rocks - from 70 Euro per person (The actual cost of renting a snowcat depends on the height of the group and the number of people in the snowcat);
Accident insurance. Designed independently at will;

Required documents and equipment:

Passport;
Personal equipment and clothing for activities in the mountains;
Personal first aid kit (band-aids, headache tablets, etc.);

Reviews

Dmitry Zhigankov,
Vice President of the People's Media Group

I am very grateful to the Climbing Club company and personally to Lena Dzukoeva for the fact that in 2012, during the winter climb to Elbrus, they opened for me this wonderful world of mountains and mountaineering. I recommend that all beginners, and even trained athletes, try themselves in climbing Elbrus, with this company. Inexpensive, accessible, safe, but at the same time difficult and professional in sports.

The level of service and skill of the guides are very worthy to ensure results, comfort and safety.

I can’t wait to see this unrealistically beautiful and majestic King Mountain next time. I often remember my climbs in good company and hope to visit one of its peaks again this winter or spring!

Tatiana Bobrovskaya,
Head of the regulatory department of the legal departmentstate corporation "Olympstroy"

Climbing Club is an excellent team that will make your wildest dreams about mountains and countries come true. Many are only tempted to see Elbrus or the Himalayas with their own eyes. With them, these thoughts became reality! Our first joint ascent to Elbrus was timed for the New Year 2010! The main Caucasian ridge, hundreds of shades of white and it is the main peak of Eurasia 5642 m! Let's add to this the very winter with snowdrifts and New Year's mood. Traveling with the Climbing Club is always not just about working on yourself, it is also a very friendly atmosphere, with fun games in the evenings at high mountain shelters. But traveling with them also means confidence that even beginner mountain climbers will feel calm under their guidance, next to real professionals who have more than one climb under their belt. The Caucasus is majestic; once you see it, you will keep it in your heart forever. And it is not just words.

And about a year later in the fall, we repeated the trip with them, this time to Nepal. The Himalayas are called the roof of the world, yes! Everyone who has ever been to the mountains strives to see them. A very ambitious feeling from being in the mountains, which are no higher. Here are located 10 of the eight-thousanders existing on earth, and it is the main peak of 7summits - Everest (8848 m!). These thoughts do not leave during such a complex and emotional journey. Our ascent was to Island Peak (6165 m). If you like to feel the deepest satisfaction through overcoming difficulties, to experience feelings of achievement and victory after struggle - this is the place for you! Yes, trekking at such an altitude is not a walk in the park, but the emotions experienced from changing climate zones as you rise higher and higher, from breathtaking views, from Buddhist stupas high in the mountains - all this is worth the effort! Yes, and the Himalayas are just cool :) Fatigue passes quickly, memories of the mountains never! Thank you, Climbing Club, Elbrus and the Himalayas are inextricably linked with you!

Report on the autumn ascent to Elbrus in November 2006 with the Ural High Mountain Club.

Our team consisted of 5 participants. Ermachek Yuri (instructor-guide), Ivanov Vladimir (Ekaterinburg), Frolova Olga (Perm), Zuev Andrey (Nizhnevartovsk) and Nosov Mikhail (Dzerzhinsk).

On November 4, the trio of Yuri Ermachek, Olga Frolova and Vladimir Ivanov left Yekaterinburg by the Sverdlovsk-Kislovodsk train and on the third day, November 7, we arrived at the Ministry of Water. At the railway station we were met by a crowd of intermediary taxi drivers, offering us a ride to Terskol for 2-2.5 thousand rubles. But we are in no hurry, we first bought return tickets and immediately found a taxi driver who agreed to take us to Terskol for 1,500 rubles. We load into the car and drive to the Central Market, where we buy products necessary for the period of our acclimatization and ascent. Having purchased everything we need, we leave the Ministry of Waters for Terskol. The road to Terskol took 3.5 hours, there was nothing remarkable on the road, except for the fact that at each traffic police checkpoint the taxi driver gave 50 rubles. Earned money yourself, help the police too. If there has not been snow yet in MinVody, then in Terskol it is already winter, a lot of snow has fallen. We unload and after half an hour we find a 2-room comfortable apartment that can comfortably accommodate six of us. Each room has three beds, a TV, and most importantly, hot water.

We take a hot shower and wait for our fourth participant, Mikhail Nosov, he gets from Dzerzhinsk to Terskol in his car. We park it and all go to the cafe together. We had to wander around for half an hour before we found an open cafe, the rest were closed, it was not the season yet. Here in a cafe, I meet with my old friend, together with him we climbed to the top of Elbrus East in 2000 - it was Abu Mukhadin - a rescuer of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and an excellent guide. He knew Mikhailov San Sanych very well, my coach from the Army Sports Club of the Urals Military District, who disappeared last year in bad weather while climbing Elbrus. The search continued for a year, but it did not yield any results. In the person of Abu, we acquire an experienced adviser and assistant on all issues related to ascension. We drink beer and eat perfectly cooked lamb. We couldn’t resist trying the local cognac and liked it.

November 8. To Cheget. We slept well, had breakfast and went towards Cheget. In half an hour we reached its foot and began a slow ascent. The weather is cloudy, but the sun sometimes peeks through, and there is a strong wind on the ridge. There is a lot of snow on the slope, we make our way through the snowdrifts. Two hours later we reach the first cable car station, where the Ai cafe is located. Here we relax and have lunch. We start up again, but after half an hour of ascent we turn down. Olga has a headache, Mikhail has wet shoes. We send them down on the cable car, and we ourselves, with Volodya, go down on foot. On the way, from Cheget to Terskol, we visit a market where they sell high-quality and cheap woolen items and buy face masks. Today the wind was blowing so strong that my face was freezing. While we were storming Cheget, Andrei Zuev flew to the MinVody and by evening the whole team was assembled. We go to dinner together at a cafe.

November 9. On the "barrels". We slept well and got up at 7.30. We collected our backpacks and selected food for 2 days.. We go to the Ministry of Emergency Situations, where I register my group. We wait for Abu and rent the missing equipment from him. We load into the UAZ and drive to Azau. Today is Thursday and there are few skiers, we get into the trailer and go up to the KRUGOZOR station and then to the MIR station. The weather and visibility today are excellent, but the wind is very strong. In 1.5 hours we climb the barrels, where the administrator Zhora puts us in a trailer with a heater, light and six beds. There is a separate trailer where there is a dining room with an installed gas stove. After having a snack and drinking tea, we go upstairs for a walk to the Shelter. We went back down at 18:00, it was already dark. The altitude takes its toll and everyone gets a headache. Olga and Mikhail immediately climb into their sleeping bags, and we go to prepare dinner. That night I can’t sleep very well; the wind shakes the trailer all night.

10th of November. On the Pastukhov rocks. The weather is great, but the wind doesn't subside. It's frosty. After breakfast, we go upstairs. Today, according to our plan, for acclimatization, we reach the Pastukhov rocks. We reach the Shelter in two hours, here, on the right rock ridge, we rest and drink tea in the hut of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Olga’s feet are frozen and her cheeks are frozen and she goes down, and we continue our way up and safely reach the Pastukhov rocks. By 18:00 we go down to the barrels; it gets dark very early in November. We have dinner, read, play cards and go to bed. Everyone is tired and sleeping better. Stormy winds again all night.

11th of November. Descent to Terskol. In the morning we drink tea and coffee. We collect our backpacks. We leave some things for storage in the trailer. The weather today is very warm, the wind has died down and there is no visibility, it is snowing. In half an hour we go down to the MIR station, another half hour and we are in Terskol, at the apartment, take a shower and go drink beer and have lunch. We wanted to go to a disco in the evening, but everything was closed, it was not the season.

November 12. Rest day in Terskol. Mikhail leaves in the morning to ride a board, and the rest leave for the village. Elbrus, visit the Vysotsky Museum. We have lunch in a cafe on Cheget. We drink mulled wine and eat kebabs. We return to the apartment and prepare for tomorrow’s climb up, already for the ascent, to Elbrus.

the 13th of November. On the "barrels". We slept well, had breakfast and it turned out that Olga had a sore throat. We leave her in Terskol, and the four of us go up. The weather is bad, there is no visibility and there is a snowstorm with strong winds above the MIR station. We make our way to the barrels and move into our trailer. We play cards and read until the evening.

November 14. On barrels. A snow storm raged all night, and it did not subside during the day. There is so much snow that it takes half an hour to fight your way to the toilet, which is only 20 meters. Today, according to the plan, we were supposed to climb to the Shelter in order to storm Elbrus at night, but going up is pointless, the snowstorm is such that we can’t see anything. We play cards and read all day again. We'll find out the forecast for the next two days via communication; it turned out to be disappointing. Tomorrow there will be a slight improvement, and the day after tomorrow there will be another snowstorm. We decide that this is our chance to go down normally; the mountain clearly won’t let us in.

15th of November. Descent to Terskol. The forecast came true. The wind is not so strong, so after collecting our backpacks and tidying up the trailer, we head down. Elbrus is not visible and we have no chance of climbing it. But the mountain stands and will stand, the main thing is that everyone is alive and well, no one got frozen. We celebrate our successful descent in a cafe on Cheget.

November 16. Terskol. We have a day of rest. Mikhail went boarding. Olga and Volodya went for a walk, and Andrey and I decided to go to the Observatory. Another climb along the snow-covered slopes to the ridge, height 2700 meters and we turn back, a snowstorm began again. We go down to Terskol and book a sauna at the Wolfram Hotel for the evening. We had a great time steaming and relaxing.

November 17. Departure. In the morning we rent out the apartment and go down to MinVody on a Gazelle. The train is at 11 pm, so there is nothing left to do but go to the local cinema.

Useful information on prices in the Caucasus:
Taxi from MinVod to Terskol - 1500 rubles;
2-room apartment - 250 rub. per person;
One stage of the lift - 80 rubles;
Accommodation on barrels - 400 rubles. per person;
From Terskol to Azau - 25 rubles. per person
Gazelle Terskol - MinVody - 300 rub.

The best time to climb Elbrus is from mid-May to October.
Daylight hours are longer and the weather is more stable and much warmer.

Detailed information about training camps and ascents planned by UVK for the current year can always be found .

Our team consisted of 5 participants. Ermachek Yuri (instructor-guide), Ivanov Vladimir (Ekaterinburg), Frolova Olga (Perm), Zuev Andrey (Nizhnevartovsk) and Nosov Mikhail (Dzerzhinsk).

November 4 The trio Ermachek Yuri, Frolova Olga and Ivanov Vladimir left Yekaterinburg by train "Sverdlovsk-Kislovodsk" and on the third day, November 7, we arrived at the Ministry of Water. At the railway station we were met by a crowd of intermediary taxi drivers, offering us a ride to Terskol for 2-2.5 thousand rubles. But we are in no hurry, we first bought return tickets and immediately found a taxi driver who agreed to take us to Terskol for 1,500 rubles. We load into the car and drive to the Central Market, where we buy products necessary for the period of our acclimatization and ascent. Having purchased everything we need, we leave the Ministry of Waters for Terskol. The road to Terskol took 3.5 hours, there was nothing remarkable on the road, except for the fact that at each traffic police checkpoint the taxi driver gave 50 rubles. Earned money yourself, help the police too. If there has not been snow yet in MinVody, then in Terskol it is already winter, a lot of snow has fallen. We unload and after half an hour we find a 2-room comfortable apartment that can comfortably accommodate six of us. Each room has three beds, a TV, and most importantly, hot water.

We take a hot shower and wait for our fourth participant, Mikhail Nosov, he gets from Dzerzhinsk to Terskol in his car. We park it and all go to the cafe together. We had to wander around for half an hour before we found an open cafe, the rest were closed, it was not the season yet. Here in a cafe, I meet with an old friend of mine, together with him we climbed to the top of Elbrus East in 2000 - it was Abu Mukhadin - a rescuer from the Ministry of Emergency Situations and an excellent guide. He knew Mikhailov San Sanych very well, my coach from the Army Sports Club of the Urals Military District, who disappeared last year in bad weather while climbing Elbrus. The search continued for a year, but did not yield any results. In the person of Abu, we acquire an experienced adviser and assistant on all issues related to ascension. We drink beer and eat perfectly cooked lamb. We couldn’t resist trying the local cognac and liked it.

November 8. To Cheget. We slept well, had breakfast and went towards Cheget. In half an hour we reached its foot and began a slow ascent. The weather is cloudy, but the sun sometimes peeks through, and there is a strong wind on the ridge. There is a lot of snow on the slope, we make our way through the snowdrifts. Two hours later we reach the first cable car station, where the Ai cafe is located. Here we relax and have lunch. We start up again, but after half an hour of ascent we turn down. Olga has a headache, Mikhail has wet shoes. We send them down on the cable car, and we ourselves, with Volodya, go down on foot. On the way, from Cheget to Terskol, we visit a market where they sell high-quality and cheap woolen items and buy face masks. Today the wind was blowing so strong that my face was freezing. While we were storming Cheget, Andrei Zuev flew to the MinVody and by evening the whole team was assembled. We go to dinner together at a cafe.

November 9. On the "barrels". We slept well and got up at 7.30. We collected our backpacks and selected food for 2 days.. We go to the Ministry of Emergency Situations, where I register my group. We wait for Abu and rent the missing equipment from him. We load into the UAZ and drive to Azau. Today is Thursday and there are few skiers, we get into the trailer and go up to the KRUGOZOR station and then to the MIR station. The weather and visibility today are excellent, but the wind is very strong. In 1.5 hours we climb the barrels, where the administrator Zhora puts us in a trailer with a heater, light and six beds. There is a separate trailer where there is a dining room with an installed gas stove. After having a snack and drinking tea, we go upstairs for a walk to the Shelter. We went back down at 18:00, it was already dark. The altitude takes its toll and everyone gets a headache. Olga and Mikhail immediately climb into their sleeping bags, and we go to prepare dinner. That night I can’t sleep very well; the wind shakes the trailer all night.

10th of November. On the Pastukhov rocks. The weather is great, but the wind doesn't subside. It's frosty. After breakfast, we go upstairs. Today, according to our plan, for acclimatization, we reach the Pastukhov rocks. We reach the Shelter in two hours, here, on the right rock ridge, we rest and drink tea in the hut of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Olga’s feet are frozen and her cheeks are frozen and she goes down, and we continue our way up and safely reach the Pastukhov rocks. By 18:00 we go down to the barrels; it gets dark very early in November. We have dinner, read, play cards and go to bed. Everyone is tired and sleeping better. Stormy winds again all night.

11th of November. Descent to Terskol. In the morning we drink tea and coffee. We collect our backpacks. We leave some things for storage in the trailer. The weather today is very warm, the wind has died down and there is no visibility, it is snowing. In half an hour we go down to the MIR station, another half hour and we are in Terskol, at the apartment, take a shower and go drink beer and have lunch. We wanted to go to a disco in the evening, but everything was closed, it was not the season.

November 12. Rest day in Terskol. Mikhail leaves in the morning to ride a board, and the rest leave for the village. Elbrus, visit the Vysotsky Museum. We have lunch in a cafe on Cheget. We drink mulled wine and eat kebabs. We return to the apartment and prepare for tomorrow’s climb up, already for the ascent, to Elbrus.

the 13th of November. On the "barrels". We slept well, had breakfast and it turned out that Olga had a sore throat. We leave her in Terskol, and the four of us go up. The weather is bad, there is no visibility and there is a snowstorm with strong winds above the MIR station. We make our way to the barrels and move into our trailer. We play cards and read until the evening.

November 14. On barrels. A snow storm raged all night, and it did not subside during the day. There is so much snow that it takes half an hour to fight your way to the toilet, which is only 20 meters. Today, according to the plan, we were supposed to climb to the Shelter in order to storm Elbrus at night, but going up is pointless, the snowstorm is such that we can’t see anything. We play cards and read all day again. We'll find out the forecast for the next two days via communication; it turned out to be disappointing. Tomorrow there will be a slight improvement, and the day after tomorrow there will be another snowstorm. We decide that this is our chance to go down normally; the mountain clearly won’t let us in.

15th of November. Descent to Terskol. The forecast came true. The wind is not so strong, so after collecting our backpacks and tidying up the trailer, we head down. Elbrus is not visible and we have no chance of climbing it. But the mountain stands and will stand, the main thing is that everyone is alive and well, no one got frozen. We celebrate our successful descent in a cafe on Cheget.

November 16. Terskol. We have a day of rest. Mikhail went boarding. Olga and Volodya went for a walk, and Andrey and I decided to go to the Observatory. Another climb along the snow-covered slopes to the ridge, height 2700 meters and we turn back, a snowstorm began again. We go down to Terskol and book a sauna at the Wolfram Hotel for the evening. We had a great time steaming and relaxing.

November 17. Departure. In the morning we rent out the apartment and go down to MinVody on a Gazelle. The train is at 11 pm, so there is nothing left to do but go to the local cinema.
On November 20, all Elbrusiad participants returned home safely.

Useful information on prices in the Caucasus:
Taxi from MinVod to Terskol - 1500 rubles;
2-room apartment - 250 rub. per person;
One stage of the lift - 80 rubles. ;
Accommodation on barrels - 400 rubles. per person;
From Terskol to Azau - 25 rubles. per person
Gazelle Terskol - MinVody - 300 rub.

The best time to climb Elbrus is from mid-May to October.
Daylight hours are longer and the weather is more stable and much warmer..

Extreme shift

Shift with restrictions on participants!

Suitable only for men with excellent physical fitness- as a great way to spend a vacation in November in Russia, interesting and useful, for employees of special services and special forces, military, police officers, and athletes. Male, brutal, very sporty shift.

You will undergo Initial Training (NP-1) during the first 7 days (with the assignment of the award badge Mountaineer of Russia in case of climbing a peak of 1B category of difficulty), and while climbing Elbrus you will go through part of the NP-2 program and begin to fulfill the standards for the award 3rd sports category. Those who climb Elbrus receive a certificate of ascent and a Climber's Book with a record of the ascent.

There are 2 mountaineering instructors on shift.

The first 7 days of the program will take place at the Elbrus educational center (Russia, Kabardino-Balkaria, Adyl-Su gorge), or at the Digoria All-Russian Social and Cultural Center (Russia, North Ossetia-Alania, Irafsky district). The next 5-7 days - on the slopes of Elbrus.

Alpine overnight stays (in a tent in the snow) will be from 5 to 7 (the remaining nights in a mountain camp or hotel).

You need to be prepared: for cold (from -10 to -20), on the day of ascent - for temperatures up to -30, -40 and wind up to 150 km/h. It may well be that the weather in November will not allow us to reach the summit (we have 4-5 days to find a window for climbing).

Standards

In order to be able to complete the program, you Necessarily you need to be able to:

run for 60 minutes at a calm pace without stopping 3-4 times a week
squats on two legs 100 times daily

Just in case you need to have it with you additionally up to 12,000-15,000 rubles. on a snowcat. We are for sport climbing; moreover, in November a snowcat (even with all your desire) may not climb to the top of the Pastukhov rocks if there is open ice. But the snowcat needs to be laid as a non-standard option For second attempts if the first one fails for various reasons (to save 2-3 hours on climbing, which can be lost when climbing on ice, or in strong winds there are situations when without a snowcat there may simply not be enough time to climb and descend). The decision to use a snowcat will be made by the senior instructor based on the situation on the eve of the ascent.

Required down jacket, down mittens, double boots, if you don’t have your own - rent on the spot up to 7,000 rubles. for everything for all days of the program.

Thermal underwear - warm, winter (not average).

The rest of the clothes are on the usual list.

Sleeping bags for the required temperature, tents, equipment - as usual, are ours (included in the cost of the program: 57,000 rubles).

Be sure to have a crazy desire to get to Elbrus through the terrible cold!

The development of tourism in our time has reached such a level that only space remains a forbidden place for travelers, and even then not for long.

If 15-20 years ago, conquering peaks was considered an extreme sport, but today climbing Elbrus (reviews from novice tourists speak about this) is an extreme type of recreation, tickets for which can be bought at a regular travel agency.

Elbrus

Elbrus, which arose at the end of the Neogene era during its ascent, was such a powerful volcano that today scientists find the consequences of its ancient eruptions hundreds of kilometers away.

The activity of the volcano ceased 2500 years ago, but Elbrus, reviews of the strength and power of which remained in local legends and fairy tales, was depicted on maps in the form of a cone with fire back in the 16th century.

One of the highest extinct volcanoes on the planet began to be conquered at the beginning of the 19th century. A Russian expedition, consisting of scientists and military men, tried to conquer Elbrus in 1829 and even reached a height of 4800 m, as evidenced by the inscription on the stone with the St. George Cross carved on it. But only their Kabardian guide was able to conquer the peak, since he was better suited to the rarefied high-mountain air.

Evidence of the conquest of Elbrus were memorial plates on which this event was recorded, but the conquest of the double-headed peaks of the mountain did not stop there. In 1874, English climbers conquered the western peak. Both peaks, with the exact topography of the mountain mapped, were explored by the Russian topographer Pastukhov, after whom the rocks at 4,700 meters are named.

Since then, climbing equipment has improved and the number of those who have conquered the mountain has increased. Climbing Elbrus (reviews of 20th century climbers speak of this) was a real test of strength, endurance and self-control. Today, every tourist can climb the extinct volcano without special preparation. It should be remembered that Elbrus annually takes dozens of lives of those who were careless or too self-confident.

Weather on Elbrus

The climate on Elbrus is more like the Arctic, since the average temperature of the hottest month here reaches +8 degrees Celsius, and the most severe weather conditions are February.

Frequent precipitation in the form of snow and numerous changes in the weather gave the mountain the glory of “wind guide,” as the name of Elbrus is translated from the Nogai dialect.

Climbers of the 19th and 20th centuries had to rely on luck when setting out to climb. Today, modern meteorological equipment allows you to find out in advance when you can go to conquer Elbrus. Reviews from many climbers indicate that knowing the weather in advance often saves lives.

For the convenience of climbers, transshipment bases have been installed at different heights of the mountain, the main purpose of which is to serve as shelter in bad weather and an opportunity to undergo acclimatization before climbing. The latter is a prerequisite, since Elbrus is harsh on those who neglect safety precautions.

Depending on which slope to start the climb from, its difficulty depends.

Elbrus - tourist area

Climbing Elbrus (there are numerous reviews about this today) has become a form of tourist recreation relatively recently. The development of infrastructure in the form of hotels and transshipment bases has led to tourists from all over the world flocking here.

For example, Mount Cheget (3650 m) is a ski resort with the most difficult slope in the world. Anyone who wants to challenge the mountain comes here to test their strength. During the season when snowboarders sharpen their skis on Elbrus (reviews say that this is November), the available 4 lifts and 3 cable car lines are not enough to quickly deliver everyone to the place. Thanks to them, skiers can begin their descent from an altitude of 3070 m above sea level, which is not at all easy for beginners, since a slow ascent and rapid descent can affect their general well-being in the form of dizziness and nausea.

In the existing hotels and nearby cafes you can relax between descents and gain strength by tasting local cuisine. You can also start from here on Elbrus. Feedback from climbers suggests that the lifts from the Azu clearing, which can be reached from the Cheget clearing by minibus or on foot (6 km), significantly reduce the time for climbing the mountain.

Trekking bases on the mountain itself are not suitable for long-term accommodation. Their purpose is to give people the opportunity to undergo acclimatization, making an ascent from one base to another, in order to make it easier to endure the ascent to Elbrus itself. Feedback from tourists suggests that there are minimal conditions there, sufficient to gain strength.

Elbrus for beginners

The development of the tourism business in the mountains gave rise to a number of new specialties, one of which was the profession of a guide, or, as they used to say in the old days, a conductor.

Previously, the guide was obliged to deliver travelers to their destination. Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews from beginners especially indicate the importance of this) “brought out” a new generation of professionals, whose main function was not only accompaniment, but also training of inexperienced climbers.

As a rule, experienced climbers give recommendations to beginners, which can be found on the Internet, but who reads them? Tourists often naively believe that if a tour operator makes a tempting offer in the form of conquering peaks, then they will carry him to the top of the mountain under white hands. In fact, the agency that sold the tour does not care whether the client succeeds in climbing or not. The rest, as they say, is a matter of the guides’ technique.

Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews from all “dummies” confirm this) begins at home:

Firstly, at least some kind of physical training is required so that the legs can move at the right pace from the unusual load. It is enough 3-4 weeks before the trip to increase the pressure on the legs in the form of small stretches, running, going up and down the stairs. Let your muscles soothe at home, then it will be easier to conquer Elbrus. Reviews from beginners that they experienced exorbitant loads that spoiled all the joy of climbing are not uncommon on the Internet.
Secondly, good equipment is required. It's good, not expensive. Price in this case is not always quality. Some items can be rented on site, but shoes should only be worn in and comfortable.
Thirdly, it is important to know about your health before climbing the mountains. If a person does not undergo acclimatization due to problems with blood pressure or for some other reason, then it is better to conquer lower peaks than Elbrus. Rest (there are also reviews about this) at one of the bases will be interesting, but safe.
Fourth, always listen to your guide. He is a professional climber, so his recommendations and even orders are not discussed.

It is important for a beginner to understand that when buying a tour to Elbrus, he is only paying for an attempt, which can turn out to be anything, therefore, when going on a trip, you should take good luck with you. For those who are used to relaxing in comfort, an excursion to Elbrus is not suitable. Reviews about the difficulty of climbing and physical activity confirm this.

Rising from the West

This mountain can be climbed from different directions of the world, but not all of them are suitable for beginners. For example, climbing from the west is only suitable for climbers with extensive experience, since here the path is blocked either by powerful glaciers or by rocks that require great skill for a difficult climb.

The base camp on the western side is located in a clearing at an altitude of 2670 m (Djily-Su). Acclimatization will require a day, which can be spent profitably by visiting healing springs.

The next stage is the ascent to the next camp (3500 m) with some things to go through a new stage of acclimatization. The next day you can move into it with the rest of your things. Camp No. 2 is located on the Bityuk Tyubyu glacier (its moraine). At this stage, an intermediate altitude of 3900 m is taken, at which you can leave your equipment.

The third camp is at an altitude of 4200 m. Here you can spend a day of rest before heading to the last base point. An extra day of acclimatization will help an unprepared person regain strength and get used to oxygen starvation.

The fourth base is at an altitude of 4600 m, after which there is already an ascent to Elbrus. The mountain (reviews from climbers claim this) becomes less inaccessible if the preparatory work has been done correctly.

The ascent itself is not dangerous, although the snow slope is somewhat steep. If the body has adapted to rarefied oxygen, then the path in good weather will not be difficult or dangerous.

Rising from the East

From this side you can climb the eastern peak of the mountain, which has a height of 5621 m. Here you have to set up base tent camps yourself; if the climber is a beginner, you will need an experienced guide, since this side of the mountain does not provide comfortable living conditions.

The first camp for adaptation and overnight stay is set up at an altitude of 2400 m. The next ascent with “dig-in” is the Irik-Chat pass (3667 m), near which tents are set up. Training is carried out on the glacier, after which they climb to the next level - 4000 meters - and set up tents for the night.

The assault camp is based at an altitude of 4500 m. After rest, training and a trial conquest of an altitude of 5000 m are carried out here. After an adaptation period, the ascent to the summit begins, followed by a descent to the base camp.

This is perhaps the most “inhospitable” side of Elbrus.

Rising from the South

The southern route is the most popular among travel companies and the most equipped for adaptation of all. From this side you can even conquer Elbrus in winter. Reviews from those who have done this say that this requires remarkable physical strength and a willingness to withstand frosts down to -45 degrees with a piercing wind.

The first acclimatization is carried out at an altitude of 2200 m at the Azu camp site. From here you can comfortably reach the next base by cable car, which ends at an altitude of 2950 m at the Stary Krugozor station.

After transferring to another line of the road, you can climb to the next point for adaptation - the Mir station (3500 m). It is advisable for beginners not to rush and undergo acclimatization gradually, devoting at least a day to each altitude.

From the Mir station there is a chairlift to the Bochki shelter (3750 m). It is in this camp that the main adaptation takes place. If you go on a voucher, the ascent schedule is something like this:

On the first day in “Bochki” there is a regular walk, getting to know the surroundings and relaxing.
The second day is a hike to “Shelter 11” at an altitude of 4050 m. The ascent is at an angle of 10 degrees and takes about 2 hours, since the lungs should gradually adapt to the altitude. The descent takes 20 minutes.
The third day is an ascent to (4600), if health and weather permits. The ascent is slow, it takes 3-4 hours, there is a break for tea near the rocks, and then the descent takes 1.5-2 hours.
The next 1-2 days are either climbing or additional acclimatization. We usually go out at 2-3 am under the light of lanterns to try to catch the sunrise at the top.

The weather on Elbrus is changeable, so you should be prepared in advance that you may have to turn back half way. The mountains do not forgive recklessness.

Rising from the North

The conquest of Elbrus once began precisely from its northern side. Unlike the comfortable south side with its hotels and ski lifts, here you will have to go through the entire path on your own. The first base for acclimatization is considered to be the Oleinikov and Roshchina huts or the Lakkolit camp.

Adaptation begins with an ascent to the Lenz rocks (4700 m), where training takes place. The ascent begins after complete acclimatization, rest and overnight. There will be no more intermediate stops to the top. From the north they most often climb to the eastern, smaller peak, since it is closer. An experienced guide can lead a group to the western peak, although it is easier to do this from the southern slope.

For those who love extreme sports, Elbrus opens the skiing and snowboarding season in November. Reviews about these descents are the most admiring. The weather at this time is usually pleasant with its still relative warmth and already fallen snow.

You can often see tourists going up to the top and skiers going down. Elbrus also hosts competitions for the fastest climb to the top. The record holder from Kazakhstan with his time of 3 hours 55 minutes. from the Azau clearing (2400 m) to the western peak (5642 m) no one has yet overtaken. To learn how to conquer mountains like this, it takes years of training and knowledge of safety rules.

Safety regulations

When people come to Elbrus on a tourist package, they must clearly understand that the person in charge here is the one who has experience in climbing to the top, so submission to the person responsible for safety must be unquestioning.

Before going out, even for acclimatization, it is mandatory to:

Checking equipment. It must be intact, dry and safe. Be sure to bring face cream and lip balm, as well as a mask or black glasses.
Checking the route, checking time, communications and first aid kit.
Be sure to have a thermos with hot tea and light food - sandwiches, bars or fruit.

Members of the group who have not registered with the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations are not allowed on the hike. This need was caused to enable them to carry out rescue and search work if the group did not return.

New Year's Elbrus

Coming to Elbrus for the New Year (reviews about this tour are the most enthusiastic) means combining the best holiday of the year with the opportunity to conquer the peak.

The New Year's tour program does not allow you to relax, as it requires both gradual acclimatization and development of skills to walk with crampons and trekking poles. An important role is played by learning how to properly pack a backpack, since the higher the lift, the heavier it will seem.

The same applies to using an ice ax, tying knots and walking in a bundle. It often happens that people who climb to the top of a mountain together once become friends for life. The coaches take the preparation of group members very seriously, since in winter Elbrus can present surprises with weather, icing and winds.

The skills of belaying on ice and stopping a slide are practiced, both in a group and independently. It takes 5-6 days to adapt and develop the necessary skills. When buying a trip to the mountains, you should understand that the minimum amount of time required for climbing is 8-10 days. There are no weekend tours for conquering Elbrus. No one can guarantee that there will be a rise at all; the weather in these parts is extremely unpredictable.

But if you listen to the instructor, follow all his recommendations, take the young “climber” course and catch your luck, then this New Year’s tour will become the most unforgettable and amazing adventure in your life.