Cave city Eski Kermen address. The cave city of Eski-Kermen is an ancient fortress on the top of the Crimean plateau. Mountain screen tests in a cave city
Crimea is a territory that is rich in natural and man-made attractions. Perhaps no other corner of the country has collected so many masterpieces of old and new times.
Therefore, if you are not tempted by trips to supermarkets, go to Eski Kermen - the most “cave” of all the cave cities of the peninsula. Here you will find such beauty and secrets, swimming and legends that will remain in your memory for a very long time.
Where is the cave city of Eski Kermen?
The medieval bastion city is located in the southwest of the peninsula; if you look for the cave city of Eski Kermen on the map, then count 14 km south from Bakhchisarai and then 5 km northwest from the no less interesting Mangup Kale. In general, the entire inner ridge of the Crimean forest-steppe is full of secrets, but the foothills are famous for just such rocky ghost towns, which have long since outlived their glory, but at the same time remain attractive to travelers.
When going to see Eski Kermen - a cave city that amazes the imagination, do not plan to do it quickly. Three long routes, cut into the rocks, will lead to the entrance in a serpentine way and will make it possible to walk around the entire settlement along the perimeter. And you definitely need to do this in order to enjoy not only the stunning natural views, but also to understand how great the skill of the ancient builders was, to see the secrets of the ghost town and to be convinced that not everything is subject to the human mind.
Representing a table mountain with steep edges, the Iski Kermen plateau stretches from north to south. The total length is just over a kilometer, the width reaches 170 meters, and the height of the cliffs is up to 30 meters! This is a real impregnable fortification that has maintained its integrity for a long time. Today Eski Kermen is a route that gives you the opportunity to see a lot. From the plateau there is a wonderful view of Mangup Kale, Tepe-Kermen, Chatyr-Dag. In good weather, the panoramas are such that it is painful and pathetic to leave here; you want to stay and settle in Eski Kermen - the cave bastion rarely lets travelers go without a feeling of sadness and regret about the past.
History of the emergence and development of the city
The old cave Eski Kermen or, as it is also called, Eksi Kermen, began its existence in the 6th century, when people came to the plateau to establish another pass on trade routes. In ancient times, the busiest trade routes leading to Tauride Chersonesus passed here. At first it was an ordinary overnight stop, then travelers needed fortifications in order to leave some goods in complete safety. This is how the development of Exi Kermen began, a city that survived destruction and was again restored from the dust, like a phoenix.
The first trouble came at the end of the 8th century, when there was an uprising against the Khazar Khaganate led by John of the Goths. Judging by the excavations, the nearby Doros fortress was destroyed to the ground, but Eski Kermen was a little more lucky; it was possible to restore not only the defensive walls, but also preserve numerous internal rock caves: barns, barnyards, etc. A period of prosperity begins, when new guardhouses are built on the cliffs, shelters for guards at all approaches, and roads are improved.
The favorable period for Iska Kermen lasted a long time; in the 10th-12th centuries, a real city with regular neighborhoods, wide streets of 2 meters and a population of many thousands grew on the site of the fortification. Evidence from contemporaries suggests that Eski Kermen in Bakhchisarai could accommodate not only residents and guests, but also a huge number of livestock.
The presence of water sources, sufficient supplies of provisions - this city could resist all adversities for a long time, as actually happened at the beginning of the 13th century, when Nogai’s countless troops came here. The destroyers swept across the highlands in a devastating wave, sweeping away everything in their path, killing and destroying. The stone caves of Eski Kermen survived, but the people turned out to be weaker than the rocks - they left. After a while, life, of course, returned, but no one wanted to restore the walls, renovate the caves, and little by little the Bakhchisarai Eski Kermen began to fade away.
At the end of the 15th century, the ruins were almost completely overgrown with bushes, the stones collapsed, nature gradually returned the rocks to their original state, in the 16th century not even the real name of the city remained, it was nicknamed Circassian-Kermen, and then Eski Kermen, which literally means simply "Old Fortress" The true name of the city can no longer be found, and even in the chronicles of 1578, the Lithuanian ambassador wrote to the khan that: “neither the Greeks, nor the Tatars, nor the Turks know what kind of fortification remains are located next to Cherkess-Kermen.”
Of course, the cave city of Eski Kermen is smaller in area than other settlements, but only here 332 caves, manually carved into the rocky base, have survived to this day almost intact! And it's worth seeing with your own eyes. Let someone praise temples lost in the jungle - we will not dispute their value, but our treasure is hidden in Crimea, which can only be reached on foot or in a good car, covering a distance of several kilometers. You will only be able to find shelter if it is an excursion to Eski Kermen, otherwise you can simply get lost in the foothills without finding the right road to the cave city of Eski Kermen.
Grottoes and tombs
Eski Kermen is an excursion famous not only for the skill of the ancient people who carved the city into the rocks. There are plenty of rooms here, built at a slightly later time, where people lived happily, enjoying the inaccessibility of the refuge. The two-story comfortable cave-apartments were spacious and comfortable. But after the fire raged, they turned into real tombs. Archaeological excavations have discovered in the basements of many houses the remains of people who did not survive the disaster.
In addition, the ruins of the basilica, which was once built in the city, today have turned into one of the attractions, albeit of a slightly sad kind - a cemetery for the residents of the village. For a long time, the basilica was beautiful, equipped with three semicircular apses, naves, and marble columns, but time has not been kind to such masterpieces.
Therefore, today all that remains is to imagine the beauty, paying tribute to the people who have died and are buried in ruins. One of the naves has survived; there is a chapel there, which is definitely worth a visit. And, of course, explore the siege well with a 20-meter tunnel, 84 steps and a water shaft. The steepness of the descent is great, so be patient - this well is unique for the peninsula, there is nothing like it in any siege bastion city. When descending, do not look at your feet; the grottoes and tombs located in the branches and recesses of the corridor are much more interesting. This is where there is room for imagination, legends and speculation. They say that from time to time, in particularly quiet moments, you can hear the clanking of weapons and the voices of people who defended the well and the entire city from nomadic tribes.
Altars and frescoes
The city's sanctuary is no less interesting to explore. The Church of the Three Horsemen has two entrances and a pair of windows that illuminate the entire space. The shrine, carved out of rock, is today a resting place. Two graves: one larger, the second small, are located right in the temple, and between them there is space left for candlesticks and a cross. It is assumed that the temple was named after the large grave; it depicts St. George the Victorious pacifying the serpent, flanked by two horsemen, one of whom is holding a child in his arms. It is possible that the fresco was painted in honor of a significant battle, of which there were plenty here. Most likely, the dead were canonized as Saints, the time of construction dates back to the end of the 12th century, and the battle was with the Tatar hordes, which filled the plateau with countless troops.
A little closer to the main gate is the oldest church, which was once equipped with three entrances, a bishop’s chair and a baptismal font. There are also tombs in the floor of the temple, but the shape of the structure itself is asymmetrical, which has left scientists scratching their heads. It is assumed that this place is a kind of “trial court”, where they not only pardoned, but also punished. The frescoes have not survived, but the painting is still alive in the Church of the Assumption, located a little further and almost completely destroyed. This church is truly unique. At first it was an ordinary pit for pouring grain, then it was converted into a grape press, that is, a winery, and then a church was opened - apparently a time of troubles came and the residents of Iska Kermen decided that the salvation of souls was much more important than all other matters.
In addition to the frescoes and altars, the bastion has quite a lot of interesting things: watch platforms, loopholes, embrasures - you can’t count it all, but there is another unique monument that deserves the attention of travelers.
Valley of the Givers
A little away from Iska Kermen there was a temple of Donators. Frescoes depicting the Holy Grail perplex scientists and force them to think over again and again all the details of the construction of the temple and the events that followed. The donor is the “giver”, plus such a sacred fresco - the result is almost the same lost burial place of the Grail!
The famous scientist N. Repnikov at one time put forward the version that once upon a time the valley and the Donator Temple were a single whole. He also described the rich and skillful frescoes that covered the walls and ceiling of the temple. It is interesting that the frescoes were painted with a skill available only to students of the Constantinople school, and this speaks volumes, for example, about the greatest significance of the Donator Temple for the inhabitants of the plateau. Today the frescoes have been completely lost, but it is possible to see the remains of the shrine and attend the liturgy, which are sometimes held here.
Lake Eski Kermen
When going on an excursion to Eski Kermen, don’t forget your swimsuit, because there is a real lake here! Some will say that there is nothing interesting in a small body of water if there is a huge sea nearby, but it is still worth a swim. Lake Eski Kermen is a masterpiece of nature. The water, heated from above by the sun, remains cool even in the hottest summer - the reservoir below is fed by the purest springs.
They say that not only the city of Eski Kermen, the lake is also sacred. If you are not afraid of the coolness and plunge into the waters headlong, failures will leave a person forever. And all lovers of extreme sports should definitely visit here: the opposite rocks are considered the most convenient place for jumping into the water, some reach a height of 10 meters, so there are plenty of daredevils here!
Well, those who like calm water are invited to splash in the cool streams, admire the surroundings and forget their sorrows forever, because this lake gives peace to the soul and relaxation to the body.
Tourist base Eski Kermen
Do you want to go to a cave with the Internet? Then a trip to Eski Kermen is a decided route. The tourist base is located at the base of the city and consists of a whole complex of comfortable premises. There is everything here for connoisseurs of extreme sports and comfort. A hotel with apartments of various classes, an ethnic cave preserved in the same ancient style.
Everything inside the ensemble is very decent: there is a large parking lot, so you can see the Eski Kermen route on a map for an individual trip, there is also a good cafe, there is a small wildlife corner where children come, a bathhouse, a tent camp for “savages” and a horse yard. The latter is worth mentioning separately: you can’t really drive a car through the mountains, but on horseback you can go to any secluded place, which all travelers do with pleasure. For fishing or a mountain walk, ride yourself and take the kids for a ride - the horses are calm, well-groomed and the price is affordable.
By the way, fishing in ponds will please everyone! Carp, silver carp, crucian carp - they ask to be grilled and are fried right there, in the fresh air, eating flatbread and herbs - tasty, healthy and very pleasant. And to go fishing for a day, you only need to pay about 1000 rubles, this is quite inexpensive for the great pleasure and enjoyment of fishing. If you don’t want to fish nearby, go on horseback to other lakes and ponds, there are plenty of them here and everywhere you can catch fish, big and small.
How to get there?
To see the whole miracle, you need to know how to get to Eski Kermen cave ghost town:
1. From Simferopol by regular bus along the route to Zalesnoye, get to the stop in the village of Krasny Mak;
Bus schedule from Simferopol to the Krasny Mak stop
Bus schedule Sevastopol-Krasny poppy
2. By train Simferopol-Sevastopol get to the village. Frontovoye (station 1509 km), there change to bus No. 45 and get to the village of Krasny Mak or to Kholmovka;
Train schedule Simferopol-Sevastopol
3. Take a regular bus to Kholmovka to the final station.
Bus schedule Sevastopol-Kholmovka
And now from Krasny Mak or Kholmovka, according to the signs, it’s about 6 km on foot. Hitch rides are frequent, so the question of how to get to Eski Kermen will not arise. But even if you choose a walk, you won’t be disappointed - the places are so rich in beauty that the trip will be a pleasure!
By car, get to the village of Tankovoe, and then to Krasny Mak, before which there is a turn to Kholmovka - turn left and head to Eski Kermen. How to get from the turn: drive to a large farm - its fence is immediately visible, turn left and that same protected valley will open, and above it Eski Kermen - a cave town on the map is indicated by coordinates: N 44.6087 E 33.7400.
How to get from Simferopol to Eski Kermen by car (map)
From Sevastopol
From Yalta
From Sevastopol there is a train Sevastopol-Simferopol, get to the village of Frontovoye, there is bus route 45. From Yalta take a regular bus to Bakhchisarai, then walk following the signs.
How to get to the cave city of Eski Kermen from Bakhchisaray:
1. By bus Bakhchisaray – Zalessnoe to Krasny Mak
2. By bus Bakhchisarai - Kholmovka to the final stop.
When traveling to Eski Kermen in your own car, do not worry about where to stay. There is no protected area here, so you can choose a place to spend the night according to your own taste. In addition to the tourist center, there are good campsites along the road, and the attraction is not so far from Simferopol that it is impossible to return at night. But what you can’t do is not see Eski Kermen, a cave city in which the secrets of eternity have not yet been solved.
There are places in Crimea that captivate the soul. One of these places is the medieval cave city of Eski-Kermen, located in the southwest of the Crimean peninsula, 14 km south of the city of Bakhchisaray. Today quiet and lifeless, in the Middle Ages it was a major center of trade and crafts, occupying a leading position among nearby settlements.
Photo review of the cave city:
History of Eski-Kerman
The cave city was built in the 6th century by the Byzantines to protect against raids on the city of Chersonesos. The settlement is protected on all sides by 30-meter rocky slopes. All its caves are carved into the firmament of the mountains.
In the Middle Ages, Eski-Kermen was an important cultural, administrative and political center of the southwest of Taurica. In the center of the city there were two-story stone houses with tiled roofs and high stone fences. Unfortunately, these houses have not survived to this day. Therefore, many tourists mistakenly believe that the Eski-Kermen people lived in caves.
During its history, Eski-Kermen survived two devastating invasions of the Khazars and the Golden Horde. The second invasion under the leadership of the Golden Horde temnik Emir Nogai became disastrous for the fortress. Soon after the invasion the city was deserted. Piles of destroyed stones were covered with moss and grass, and overgrown with forest. In the 16th century, the name of the settlement was forgotten, so local residents began to call it Eski-Kermen, which translated from the Crimean Tatar language means “old fortress.”
ATTENTION:
Colorful episodes for the feature films “Finist the Clear Falcon”, “9th Company”, “The Star and Death of Joaquin Murrieta” were filmed in the fort.
Sights of Eski-Kermen
The old settlement contains well-preserved structures erected in the 6th-12th centuries.
This is a large block of stone, hollow inside, in which the temple is built. On one of the walls of the sanctuary there is an ancient fresco depicting three noble horsemen and a boy.
Defensive structures.
The defense system is represented by casemates, loopholes, towers and sally gates. In the north of the fortress, a first-class sentinel complex has been preserved, which includes two caves, embrasures and loopholes.
Siege well -
This structure is about 50 meters deep. There are 6 flights of stairs going down into the well, which lead to a hall with water. You need to go down into the well very carefully, because the steps are slippery and worn out on the lower flights.
Temple buildings.
The following temple buildings have been preserved on the territory of the city:
- temple with a semicircular pedestal;
- Church of the Assumption with a darkened fresco of the Virgin Mary;
- the remains of a rectangular basilica with a chapel and marble columns.
Cave of the Stone Bear. In one of the Eski-Kermen caves lies a stone bear covered with moss. Along the ridge of this giant there is a hollow through which drops of water flow that have fallen from the ceiling. Drops fall even in the driest weather.
Video overview of the city:
How to get to Eski-Kermen
You can get to the medieval settlement by bus, minibus or your own car. You won’t be able to get directly to the city gates; you will still have to walk some part of the path.
Bus route
From Simferopol, Sevastopol, Yalta you can get here by intercity buses, from Bakhchisarai - by commuter buses or minibuses. The destination is the villages of Krasny Mak, Zalesnoye, Kholmovka or Ternovka, located at a distance of 4-6 km from the settlement. Then you will have to walk.
Car route
You can get to the settlement by your own car. When departing from Bakhchisarai you must:
- follow the highway T0117 “Yalta - Bakhchisarai” for 14 km;
- before s. Red Poppy turn right onto the country road;
- before reaching the village. Kholmovka turn left;
- drive along the dirt road to the northern slope of the plateau.
ATTENTION: When approaching from the city of Bakhchisarai to the village. Tank is an off-road area, cut by deep potholes and ditches. This point should be taken into account by owners of cars with low ground clearance.
Hiking routes
There are hiking routes from the villages of Zalesnoye, Ternovka, Kholmovka to the cave ruins. The shortest and most interesting route starts in the village. Zalesny (3.8 m), the longest and most boring - in the village. Kholmovka (6-7 m).
IMPORTANT:
Each tourist route is marked with colored signs, so it is almost impossible to get lost here. The most difficult section is 0.7 km on the approach to the settlement.
Eski-Kermen Eski-Kermen on the map of Crimea
GPS Coordinates: N44.6146, E33.6380 Latitude/Longitude
What to take on a hike
For driving on dirt, stone and gravel roads, lightweight sports shoes with non-slip soles are best. In the warm season, you need to have a hat and a backpack with a supply of drinking water and sandwiches.
It is windy in the mountains, the temperature here is 5-10 ◦C lower than near the sea. Therefore, tourists with poor health, who are afraid of drafts and often catch colds, need to take a warm, light jacket or windbreaker on the road.
Official information
Medieval fortified city in the southwest. parts of the Crimea Peninsula,
14 km from Bakhchisaray and 5 km northwest
Ruins of the medieval city of Mangup-Kale
General information about Eski-Kermen (according to published sources)
The name Eski-Kermen is translated from Crimean Tatar as “old fortress”.
The city's territory occupied an area of 8.5 hectares, having a length of 1040 m and a width of 170 m. Built on a table-shaped mountain plateau, limited by cliffs up to 30 m high. Eski-Kermen is part of the Bakhchisaray historical and cultural reserve.
The city of Eski-Kermen was founded at the end of the 6th century AD. e. as a Byzantine fortification and existed until the end of the 14th century. The history of the city before the 10th century is little known, since the city was an insignificant fortification. Although at the moment some researchers are inclined to believe that perhaps the Doros fortress was located here, and not on the Leaky Cape of Mangup-Kale. This is reflected in the name of the city by the Crimean Tatars: “Old Fortress”. Indirect confirmation of this hypothesis is the presence of a siege well of the 6th century, with a staircase of six flights and eighty steps, with a twenty-meter corridor; This was not the case in other known fortifications of the Byzantines during the construction of the defensive line against the raids of nomads in the Middle Ridge of Crimea.
From the 10th century, the gradual expansion of the city and the growth of its importance began, with the greatest prosperity occurring in the 12th and 13th centuries, when the number of inhabitants exceeded 2000 people. At that time, a full-fledged medieval city already existed here, the plateau was built up with rectangular blocks, separated by streets wide enough for a cart to pass through; the ruling bishop of the district was located on the territory of the city, as evidenced by the remains of a pulpit in the temple at the central gate. The Basilica, supposedly built between the end of the 4th century and the beginning of the 8th century, is being rebuilt and expanded in the central part of the plateau.
In 1299, the city was destroyed by Mongol troops led by the Golden Horde beklarbek Nogaya was no longer able to fully restore its former meaning. In 1399, the Mongol army, led by the temnik of the Golden Horde Edigei, destroyed the rebuilt fortifications and completely ruined the city, which after that was never restored. Only a small settlement remains in the vicinity: Cherkes-Kermen (village Krepkoe) located between the northern tip of Eski-Kermen and Kyz-Kule. It existed from the period of late antiquity until the early 70s. XX century.
Not far from the village of Kholmovka there is the cave city of Eski-Kermen. The Byzantines built the fortress at the end of the 6th century to defend Chersonesos. In the 8th century, the Khazars destroyed the city, but the local residents did not leave their places. The cave city of Eski-Kermen was finally destroyed in 1299 as a result of the raid of the Golden Horde emir Nogai, who took revenge on everyone and everything for the death of his beloved grandson, whom he sent to Crimea for tribute.
The original name of the city was forgotten, becauseEski-Kermen or Old Fortress- the name given by the Tatars, although during their rule no one lived in the city
The city is located 18 kilometers southwest of Bakhchisarai on a separate flat peak with steep slopes and impenetrable cliffs. The height of the mountain is approximately 300 meters and it stretches from north to south. The surface of the mountain is similar to an airplane wing and has a length of 1040 meters, and a maximum width of 200 meters. The summit of the mountain is at the southern end of the plateau.
From the north, the plateau is somewhat elongated and decreases slightly towards the north, ending in a pointed rocky cliff. In the west and east, the cave city of Eski-Kermen is limited by rocky cliffs with a height of about 30 meters. On the southern side, where the steep cliffs are of small height, a road winds up a gentle slope, which in front of the peak is carved right into the rock. This part of the plateau was protected in ancient times by powerful defensive walls.
Greetings, friends!
Where else do you think you would see "mountains" of Afghanistan from the film 9th Company ? And here they are - Eski-Kermen, a cave city in Crimea, was happy to provide a location for the filming of a famous action movie.
And now another question - can each of you count the grottoes and caves, of which there are more than 300! I think this will take you more than one day, so try not to get carried away with the process and not stay in the siege well until the Ministry of Emergency Situations and rescuers arrive.
Let's get started getting acquainted with the next cave city of our peninsula.
It is surprising that few facts have been preserved about such an ancient settlement. All historical lines and plots are mainly the result of the work of archaeologists and other researchers.
Despite the fact that the founding date of Eski-Kermen is considered to be the 6th century. when the Byzantines created fortified cave cities on the territory of Crimea, there are still chronicles telling about the “amazing country of the Douro, located high up.”
Lived in this “country” were the Goths, who, according to the chronicles, were excellent warriors, farmers, and also kind and hospitable people.
We know that Eski-Kermen, translated as an old fortress, from a small settlement in the 12-13th centuries. has grown into a large, prosperous city. Residents were engaged in viticulture, farming, and trade. The territory and population of Eski-Kermen increased.
Naturally, no one would bother to create their own home in such a place unless necessary. That is, the cave settlement was necessary for protection and defense against raids.
Why was the cave city deserted?
Even steep cliffs and seemingly impregnable walls did not save Eski-Kermen from death.
In 1299, the city was stormed by the Mongols led by Temnik Nogai, leaving the settlement devastated and defeated. After 100 years, the Golden Horde attack again, and already burn the ancient settlement to the ground.
By the 15th century Eski-Kermen is completely falling into disrepair, and its inhabitants are leaving it.
What was Eski-Kermen like “during his lifetime”: description
The Eski-Kermen plateau, nicknamed the table mountain, rises in the middle of a green valley. Now it is almost completely overgrown with bushes and trees, and various paths and paths have formed around it.
In ancient times, the plateau was chosen for living due to its favorable terrain and location.
Numerous natural grottoes, crevices, stone labyrinths and corridors provided good shelter, and steep walls and steep 30-meter precipices served as an excellent defensive point.
Needless to say about the all-round bird's eye view. In addition to natural “structures,” residents built watchtowers, strong walls, and military installations.
Where is Eski-Kermen in Crimea
This cave city is also located in the Bakhchisarai region, namely 14-15 km to the south. Just 4 km to the north there is a plateau and a cave city.
But if in terms of visibility the distances are not great, then in order to get from one cave city to another by land roads, even by car, it will take at least half an hour.
I’ll tell you how to get there at the end of the article.
What can you see there now?
There have been no residential premises in Eski-Kermen for a long time. But cave structures, both artificial and natural, give an excellent idea of the structure, way of life and life of the ancient city.
You will encounter spacious and multi-room, multi-tiered and tunnel-type caves, from the cut-out window and ventilation openings of which a fabulous view of the neighboring plateau opens.
In Eski-Kermen, the main street of the city, enclosed by walls, has been preserved. The deep petrified trace of the carts is one of the amazing evidence of that time.
This cave village also has its own siege well, where water was collected and stored. As well as temples, basilicas, with the remains of former luxury - a throne, an altar, frescoes, tombs and burial vaults.
All about excursions to Eski-Kermen
You can go to the ancient city with a tour group or explore the trails and caves on your own. If you want to learn many legends and historical facts, hire a professional guide as your assistant.
There are signs and signs on the territory of the cave city. But some tourists still risk getting lost, because you can go up and down either along the northern or southern slope, and on the eastern and northern slopes you need to look for a path.
Where to start the inspection
From the south side are the main gate and entrance to the city. It was here that the road passed, traces of which remained on this land forever.
Researchers, having recreated the plan of the fortified city, discovered that it was very difficult for an enemy to get here.
Defensive walls, three pairs of gates and open spaces between them, which were fired from all sides - this is not a quest or a “lightning strike” for you!
You will soon see for yourself the premises of the combat casemates, from where, during the siege, according to one version, warriors threw down boulders and sent a whole stream of arrows. Next follow complexes of military and siege caves, once connected by defensive thick (up to 2 m) walls.
You will also find yourself in granaries, which were passed off as Afghan wells with Mujahideen in the film “9th Company”. This is the most popular place in Eski-Kermen after the release of the film, where every tourist takes a photo.
And here into the siege well It’s just better not to interfere. A very difficult and narrow descent, steep, high and half-erased steps, a dark abyss - you need good insurance, equipment and preparation here.
Temple complexes
A little lower and west of the main entrance in the rocks there is an active cave temple of the Three Horsemen. Here, on the wall, an ancient fresco was discovered depicting three horsemen, one of which is presumably St. George the Victorious.
And “inside” the city you will find a spacious temple, with preserved columns, an altar niche and a bishop’s chair, a font, benches for parishioners, and tombs. It was also decorated with frescoes, but they have not survived to this day.
On the eastern slope there is another small but interesting temple - Church of the Assumption . This is a very small room, which, as it turned out, was previously a grain pit, a winery, and a water storage facility. Then a temple was founded there, and the walls were painted with frescoes. Here the fragments are better preserved.
Once upon a time there was life here
Archaeologists have completely restored the picture of the life of the local residents. The living quarters were mainly built of stone, had two floors and dense extensions, and the roofs were covered with tiles.
Numerous artifacts were found here - women's jewelry, ceramic objects, utensils and tools. The population was engaged in crafts, cultivating fields and vineyards, and raising livestock.
During excavations of the ruins, human remains were discovered. Some died as a result of fires, others were hacked to death with sabers.
This suggests that the attack was swift and sudden, and many were unable to escape or leave their own homes.
Finishing the walk around Eski-Kermen
You can go down to the road along the northern slope. There is a parking area at the foot of the plateau on this side.
In principle, you can start your ascent from here, and go down the southern slope on the way back to appreciate the surrounding landscapes.
Along the way you will be accompanied by the walls of a nearby picturesque rock - Zangurma-Kobalar . Few people visit this plateau, and it’s in vain! There are also traces of the presence of ancient peoples - rock cuttings, tarapans, hollowed out niches. And what grottoes, natural stone sculptures and wonderful views from the top there are!
What visitors say
There are a lot of reviews about Eski-Kermen; during the tourist season it’s like a city park of culture and recreation.
Still, there are a few disadvantages that should be mentioned:
- remote location, difficult to get to without your own transport;
- no sources;
- dangerous cliffs, slippery stairs, ledges, passages.
There are many more advantages, they are expressed in enthusiastic remarks from visitors and positive emotions.
Information for visitors
Visits occur only during daylight hours, ticket offices are open until 16.00 .
On the territory of the Eski-Kermen nature reserve forbidden make fires, set up tent cities and stay overnight. Vandalism is punishable by a fine!
- Ticket price: 100/50 rubles.
- You can use the services of a guide - 100 rubles per person.
- Trip to the foot of the plateau by jeep – from 1000 rubles per car.
How to get to the treasured plateau
Unfortunately, there are no convenient and direct flights, except for excursion ones.
Therefore, by public transport from , you need to get to one of the following villages: Zalesnoye, Krasny Poppy, Ternovka, Kholmovka. Then follow on foot for about 4-5 km.
By car, according to the coordinates for the navigator (44°36’59.4″N 33°44’16.6″E ) , move through the village. Ternovka - you will find yourself at the Southern slope, through the village. Kholmovka - near Severny.
If you are driving your own car, this is what your route will look like from the village of Khodzha-Salo at the foot of Mangup-Kale. I’ll warn you right away that after the village of Kholmovka the road is terrible, you won’t be able to accelerate much.
On my trips, be it Turkey or Crimea, I always use the application maps.me. It works without the Internet and shows the area in great detail, unlike Google, which concentrates on hotels and restaurants.
If you're wondering how to use these unique maps to their full potential, and not just as a navigator, then here's good material.
As soon as you get to the restaurant and parking lot (see the very first photo of the article), you have a choice: leave the car and continue on foot or jump into a jeep.
By the way, if you have your own “all-terrain vehicle”, then many people drive further, although I personally highlighted there "brick". Not on the road, but at the entrance))
They will also take you if you order yourself jeep tour to the plateau. Climb straight up so you can protect your legs)).
But the road for a pedestrian will not be so tiring. In fact, it’s even easier to get here faster than Mangup and. So decide for yourself.
Good to know
In the Dzhurla gully, not far from Eski-Kermen, there is a tourist base of the same name. There you can stay in comfortable rooms, tent camps, and even rent an exclusive residential cave room. See more details here eski-kermen.rf .
Don’t forget, the cave city is a rather dangerous place, be careful and watch your children!
Also, don’t forget about yourself; shoes should be comfortable and not have slippery soles. Take plenty of water and a small snack.
And don’t miss visiting the main ones, as well as cafes with national cuisine!
Look for more important and useful resources in the “ “ section, and you will find all my video guides about traveling Crimea on the “ “ tab. And be sure to join our
Photo: Cave city Eski-Kermen
A significant part of the Crimean Mountains is composed of soft rocks. This contributed to the formation of a large number of karst caves. People who built artificial grottoes also contributed. This is how several cave cities appeared on the Crimean peninsula. One of the most interesting is called Eski-Kermen.
Old fortress
In the Crimean Tatar language, the word “eski” literally means “old”, and “kermen” means “fortress”. The cave metropolis is located in the southwest of Crimea, two dozen kilometers from Bakhchisarai. By the standards of antiquity, it really was a metropolis, since the urban area reached about eight hectares. With a width of 170 meters, the settlement was just over a kilometer long. The city was built on a plateau 30 meters high.
Photo: The ancient city is located on an impregnable rock
Currently, Eski-Kermen is a protected area. It is part of the exhibition of the Bakhchisarai Museum. The villages of Ternovka, Kholmovka, Zalesnoye and Krasny Mak are located nearby. Hiking routes to the protected plateau begin from here. Just five kilometers from Eski-Kermen there is another ancient cave city called Mangup-Kale.
From time immemorial
In the 6th century AD, the Byzantines firmly settled in these places. They built a fortification on the mountain. For almost three hundred years the settlement played a secondary role. Its population actually consisted only of garrison soldiers. And only in the 10th century there was a tendency towards growth. Over the next two hundred years, the number of inhabitants grew to 2 thousand people. The development of the vast plateau was carried out systematically. A regular network of streets and neighborhoods appeared on the mountain.
Photo: The mountain range is riddled with caves and passages
The heyday of the city was caused by a change in its status. The fact is that a cathedral was opened in Eski-Kermen, where the ruling bishop served. Proof of this is the pulpit that archaeologists discovered in the temple near the central gate. During this period, the ancient basilica was significantly expanded and rebuilt. It was rare for a medieval city to have relatively wide streets. They even drove carts along them. This is evidenced by wheel ruts and hoof marks carved into the stone over hundreds of years.
The Golden Horde ruler Nogai dealt a crushing blow to the well-being of Eski-Kermen. In 1299, his army captured the city, plundered and destroyed it. The former greatness could not be restored even many years after the departure of the invaders. In 1399, the defeat was completed by the Mongol army under the leadership of Temnik Edigei. Temnik in the Golden Horde commanded a detachment of 10 thousand soldiers. It turns out that the number of enemies was many times greater than the number of inhabitants.
Photo: Traces from carts
This was the last battle of the cave citadel, after which they never tried to restore it. Only the satellite city of Cherkes-Kermen remained, located on the northern outskirts of Eski-Kermen, at the foot of the mountain. The small ancient settlement existed almost until the end of the 20th century. In the USSR it was known as the village of Krepkoe. This settlement, which has an ancient history, was abolished in 1977.
Thriller scenery
Even today, Eski-Kermen makes a spectacular impression. Sometimes it seems that this is not an archaeological site, but a giant set for a science fiction film. Some cave complexes resemble huge skulls with black empty eye sockets, others look like medieval knight's helmets. Stairs leading to nowhere; roads with ruts, as if carved out of stone; mysterious tunnels leading to the dungeons are Eski-Kermen. No less impressive are the alien panoramas that open from the plateau.
Photo: Sometimes it seems that this is not a city, but the scenery for a science fiction film
In total, there are about 350 natural and artificial caves in the city. There are about fifty more in the surrounding area. This is truly a real cave metropolis. Some grottoes are located on several floors. Some of the caves were used as fortifications, others as temples, others for residential and economic purposes, food was stored in them, and livestock were kept. All of them appeared between the 12th and 13th centuries.
The length of the plateau is more than a kilometer. The buildings occupy only part of the territory. A typical city dweller's house had two floors and was surrounded by a stone fence. The first floor was used for household needs, while the second floor was used for living. Crafts were developed in the city - they had their own blacksmiths, potters, jewelers, stonemasons, tanners. Winemaking flourished - niches with drains called tarpans were preserved. Wine fermented in them.
Man-made miracle
Acquaintance with Eski-Kermen begins with the Temple of the Three Horsemen. It is located on the road leading to the plateau. It's hard to imagine a more strange church. At first you might think that this is just a huge gray boulder with a diameter of about four meters. And it really is a piece of rock, but it’s hollow inside!
A small wooden door with a golden cross leads into the temple. Behind it is an oval room with a window closed with shutters. The wall is decorated with a long fresco depicting three horsemen - hence the name of the temple. One of them is easily identified by the spear with which he strikes the snake. There is no doubt that this is St. George the Victorious. Under the painting there is an inscription that says that the holy martyrs were depicted for the salvation of the soul and the remission of sins.
In the Middle Ages, life was full of dangers, so it is impossible to imagine any ancient city without fortress walls. Eski-Kermen is no exception. The main gate leading inside is cut right into the rock mass. Behind them was the first defensive wall. The sheer ledges of the plateau themselves served as an ideal defense, so walls were built only where there were loopholes for enemies. The defensive line included caves with loopholes. The fortifications, built more than a thousand years ago, have been preserved very well.
Photo: Great Cave Temple
In Eski-Kermen, the large number of religious buildings is amazing. On the main street, in the eastern wall, there is a spacious cave temple. Inside you can see benches, a font and tombs. Because of its size, it is called the “Big Cave Temple”. On the territory of the city you can see the ruins of a 6th-century basilica and a number of religious cave structures - the Temple at the City Gate, the Judgment Complex and the Assumption Church, decorated with frescoes.
The fortress has a siege well, which is a complex engineering structure. In fact, this is an inclined mine working with a stone staircase of 89 steps. It leads to a twenty-meter horizontal tunnel, through which you can get into a cave where there was drinking water. The well was in working order until the end of the 7th century. Walking around Eski-Kermen, you can’t help but realize how much time and work it took to turn the mountain into a thriving city.
How to get there
There are several options to get to Eski-Kermen. If you go by car, on the 37th km of the Simferopol – Sevastopol road, behind the village of Siren, you need to turn left. On the outskirts of the village of Tankovoe you need to turn right and go to the village of Krasny Poppy. The monument to the Sorrowful Mother will serve as a landmark here. Near it you need to turn right and drive another 5 kilometers along the dirt road.