Light single-seat airplane "baby". How I made real airplanes How to build a homemade airplane
If for some reason you were not destined to become a pilot or pilot, and your financial capabilities do not allow you to purchase an aircraft, in this case, you can make it yourself. How to build an airplane, what is needed for this, what characteristics should it have? Let's go in order.
First of all, it should be remembered that the aerobatic properties of a homemade aircraft should be accessible to both ordinary amateurs who are behind the wheel for the first time, and professionals. It must be easy not only to operate, but also to take off and land. It should make it easy to perform simple aerobatics. In no case should the piloting scheme of your aircraft contradict generally accepted piloting standards, and non-standard control systems are strictly prohibited!
Speed limits
In the case when you and your family or friends decide: we’ll build the plane ourselves, we don’t need anyone, be sure to take into account the following requirements and speed limits:
- the aircraft's lift-off speed during takeoff must be at least 1.2 stall speeds;
- the approach speed must be at least 1.3 stall speed;
- landing speed is not less than 0.95 stall speed;
- cruising speed of the aircraft is not less than 1.3 stall speed;
- The stall speed itself should be no more than 90 km/h.
Stall speed is the minimum acceptable speed for any aircraft. The stall itself is accompanied by a lowering of the aircraft's nose without a roll, and subsequently, the speed should increase. If this does not happen, then the pilot should pay attention to signs (shaking of the control stick or the structure itself) that indicate that the aircraft is approaching a stall.
In the event of engine malfunction, it is necessary to ensure that your aircraft is balanced in the prescribed straight flight. In this situation, you should stop the flight and land. It should be noted that the landing itself should also be extremely simple, focusing solely on favorable conditions and increased attention of the pilot. During the takeoff and run, the aircraft must adhere to the given direction as stably as possible.
The rate of climb after take-off must be at least 1.5 m/s, and the run and take-off run must not exceed 250 meters. 10 meters is the generally established height of flight over any obstacle bordering the runway. The soil strength of asphalt, dirt and concrete platforms from which the aircraft is operated should not exceed 5 kg/cm2.
Aircraft construction diagram
Before you build an airplane with your own hands, you need to decide on the model of the desired aircraft. If you want to construct an aircraft in a short period of time and with the lowest financial costs, in this case, the ideal option would be to build an ultra-light aircraft (ULA). Often, ULA has an upper wing arrangement. The distinctive features of this device are its simple design and low weight.
Experts recommend building ULA according to ready-made, custom-made drawings. After all, without experience in designing such devices, you can make a lot of serious mistakes, for which you will have to pay seriously. When designing an aircraft, it is necessary to take as a basis the high quality of the work performed, which will have a positive impact on your entire aircraft. If deadlines are tight, then for maximum productivity in building an aircraft, you need a good workshop and high-quality tools. The absence of these things will have a detrimental effect on the quality and speed of your work. Knowing theoretically how to build an airplane with your own hands and having prepared everything you might need, you can move on to practice.
Practical part
All work begins with the machining of aluminum blanks, from which parts of the future aircraft are created. You can either purchase such blanks or order the already required parts: fuselage, wings, etc. If your workshop is equipped with a special milling machine, in this case, you can obtain elements of the desired size and shape from metal blanks. Installation of rivets in the panels of each wing and fuselage of the aircraft, as well as drilling holes, is best done with a laser on a riveting machine. It can also be used to cut other small parts for aircraft. There are almost no straight parts in any aircraft, and in order to give the necessary curvature, you need to use a set of forms for covering on a press specially designed for this: you should install the element in the press, press it with belts and apply the necessary amount of force to achieve the desired shape. After this, you need to cover all parts with primer to avoid corrosion. Marking the installation of technological fasteners must be done manually. To avoid backlash, the holes of bolted connections must be processed in such a way that the joint is as tight as possible, because this increases the service life of the part itself. Don't forget to use headphones when building your aircraft, and even more so when hand riveting!
The power plant is the heart of the aircraft, so if the engine of your aircraft is homemade and not purchased, it is necessary to provide for duplication of all important systems, as well as the ability to start the engine during flight. Each element of the aircraft control system must be highly reliable. It is necessary to consider the possibility of duplicating the most critical components of the aircraft. Take, for example, steering rods, if cables were used as cables, make sure that they cannot become pinched. It is necessary to secure the guide rollers well in the wiring of these cables. They must be able to withstand loads that can be several times higher than designed. Remember, your life during the flight depends on the reliability of these things. Do not forget to take sales receipts when purchasing the necessary materials; it is possible that they will be needed during the process of registering your aircraft.
Many of us often wonder: who built the first airplane? Who, one way or another, when creating our own, do we want to emulate at least a little? And the world's first aircraft, with a weight heavier than our air, was built by American inventors Orville and Wilbur. Their Wright airplane was equipped with an internal combustion engine. And on December 17, 1903, the first flight was made.
On the forum they asked me to tell you about my planes. I will meet your wishes.
My planes last a long time, they are modernized and repaired. And they fly, fly, fly.
After the construction of a large number of planes and cross-planes. I decided to climb to the next step. "REAL PLANES"
I decided to build a three-dimensional model from ceiling tiles.
My most “perfect” plane measured 84cm. span, 95 cm. length, glider weight 92 grams. Here are the initial characteristics for the "aircraft".
I’m new to modeling and don’t know how to do all sorts of calculations; I made plans and drawings “by eye” out of the belief that if it looks good, it will fly.
In the “model designer” I saw a thick aerobatic profile with good stall characteristics. I drew the wing profile by hand. Just for me, my aerobatics are measured not by hours in the air, but by broken training models.
Making wings using a technology that has been described more than once. We glue the jumper onto the fold and bend it. The wing has 4 ribs from a 4 mm thick ceiling and a spar from the same. Sheathing is made of 3 mm. This is what happened.
I planned to join the wings using a ruler. This is approximately how it works.
The fuselage was made using the same technology.
This is how the wing works. (photo taken three flight seasons later).
And they flew away
A completely normal and predictable flight. The work done on modernization has borne fruit.
I continue to fly and study on the old plane. I'm practicing the take-off and landing. Only chips are flying. The chassis was demolished several times. Well, they were glued to me - I just tore them off, glued them and again into the sky. During the next landing, it was torn out by the roots and the nose was completely broken off. I glued plywood along the entire fuselage. Not an airplane, but a plywood shovel. The nose was saved.
I finally finished the device. Installing powerful servers saved the situation. Difficulties with management continued. My fellow wrestler Victor came to the field, looked and advised me to cut off all the steering surfaces in half. Like, they’re very big, you have an airplane, after all, not a tank. After circumcision..... It flew completely normally without you... as written. I flew off 3 flights on it, took off from the grass completely freely. I just had to remove the beautiful fairings; they kept getting in the way. Well, he crashed the plane on the road..... there was waist-deep grass all around, but he found it, when landing, I saw that I was missing... I gave it gas, and the battery died. Next comes the airplane.
I couldn’t stand it and performed resuscitation. I peeled off all the tape down to the servo in the tail. I installed reinforcement in the gargrot. I filled all the cracks with titanium and cut a “shirt” from a 3mm ceiling. It was not possible to put the whole shirt on completely; I had to make a slit at the top. First, I glued one half, fixed it, waited until it set and glued the second. I placed it on top of the broken and crumpled area. The whole process took 3 hours. It took 1.5 hours in the evening to cut and glue everything. In the morning, everything had dried to death, I cut off the excess, and couldn’t resist decorating it, at home there was only black tape and again 1.5 hours. Luckily, there was a piece of the ceiling lying at home; it was enough. This is how the “black shirt” turned out.
Yes, this is such a monster - solid plywood at the bottom and three layers of glue at the top.
Today the restored airplane took off. On the first flight I almost broke it again. I set up the expenses, exhibitors, and began to steer smoothly. The feeling is very positive. Very good resembles a "real" airplane. It’s probably already half a kilo heavy, the inertia of the device is present, and on turns you need to catch it with gas. I flew until I was blue in the face, five 1000 batteries flew out. And he didn't break anything.
I re-glued the decor on the airplane. Yesterday I flew late, it was already 9 o’clock, sometimes I got lost, I couldn’t see the position of the device in the air.
However, the airplane was broken, now completely and irrevocably. It’s gratifying that I practiced takeoff and landing, aerobatics, and flew it with all my heart. My fellow fighter helped me adjust the controls so that in subsequent flights there were no such swings and dips in turns, everything was nice and pleasant to pilot.
Having gained experience on the first airplane. I am doing the second option in parallel.
A more reinforced and lighter wing, with a profile a la HELIOS. Immediately a powerful motor and equipment removed from the first version.
About the wing.
I join on rulers with a slight sweep along the leading edge. There are areas in front and behind for mounting in the fuselage. I will make “built-in” ailerons; I used to make “mounted” ones. I want to try it.
Today I assembled the wing and attached the ailerons. I decorated it a little.
Now about the fuselage.
I am assembling a frame and using it to cut out a paper sheathing template. I make holes in the frames to allow air to pass through. The glue inside will otherwise not dry well. I inserted loops into the holes to pull out the servicing wires. Well, the trim is according to the standard - I glue it with tape and bend it over the edge of the table. There are two ways to stretch the sheathing onto the frame. To begin with, I mark the places where the glue will be applied, and then I smear half of the frame and half of the trim. I wait until it dries, I glue one half, I wait until it sets and I smear the second half - this is the first method. I smear the second one all at once and, after waiting until it dries, apply it to the frame starting from the top.
I put the keel and elevator together. I immediately cut off and glued the hinges of the hinge - I modernized it a little. For better bending, I cut holes. I glue everything together into the fuselage.
Here it is assembled.
I’m making a power frame from fruit plywood, everything will be attached to it - wings, engine frame, landing gear mounting platform. I want to do it as simply as possible, but all the “lace” turns out - apparently it’s not destiny to live in simplicity.
The X-ray image shows how the power frame is inserted into the fuselage.
Intermediate stage of construction.
Wheels.
Hood equipment.
Almost completed the device, only the cockpit canopy remains.
I haven’t decided on the color of the lantern yet; I found a fitting studio.
Well, it's all done - finished!!!
The device was flying around, as always, the wind was blowing about 5 meters. Everything went well. After the first flight, I adjusted the apparatus. At full throttle it flies very quickly - almost at the limit of my abilities as a novice pilot, I didn’t take risks, I flew off smoothly and sedately.
I'll look at the settings at home. They need to be reconfigured for the new airplane.
At home I set up the airplane controls and in the field everything went extremely well. 5 accounts flew off for 1000.
Remade the cockpit canopy. Photo of how the canopy was made. By minimum weight. I tried to remain tough. You can make magnets on the back wall. It was given to me somewhere, I couldn’t find it, I’m making it again with duct tape. The front wall and part of the canopy go under the hood.
Well, the plane crashed. Out of my own stupidity. I watched a video about extreme aerobatics a meter from the ground. But I have no experience........ With all my experience as a resuscitator.... I can’t restore it crumbly, the fuselage completely fell apart.
True, the wing remained intact.
I stubbornly broke these two foam blocks for two years.
It's winter outside, I'm sitting thinking.
I’m comparing the first and second versions of the aircraft, so to speak, the operational characteristics. I come to the conclusion that complicating the design of the second option did not provide any advantages. It only made manufacturing more complicated due to the use of a plywood frame, complicating the wing design. In the first version, the wing had no reinforcements at all, a ceiling spar and ribs.
Both flew and fought the same way, but the all-foam construction turned out to be more repairable. Comparing the wreckage of the fuselage, if not for the plywood frame, OLYMPUS could have been restored. The first aircraft was completely restored “from the ashes”.
The conclusion is the following: for these dimensions, you can make the structure completely ceiling-mounted with small reinforcement elements. Motor frame, landing gear mount, wing root rib, and plywood along the belly of the fuselage. This will increase manufacturability and, oddly enough, the survivability of the model. Based on such “analytical reasoning” I will make options for next summer.
I didn’t throw away the wreckage, I look at it and meditate.
I've finally finished the "apupea". The battery is dead and the indicator goes out. I wrote for three hours.
My best wishes!
OLEGSS.
Mehmonali Yakubov, Tashkent, November 21, 2013 at 04:17 pm | 0
Oleg, please share your method for making wheel fairings.
I'm starting to share.
I’m telling you how I made those fairings; I haven’t tried making others since.
Maybe now I could come up with something more interesting.
I quickly drew a picture of the manufacturing process. because there is no photo.
1/ I glue two blocks together using PVA paper.
2/ Processing and shaping.
3/ I separate it on paper and it falls apart easily.
4/ I cut off a ring from the bottle with a significant allowance. Between the halves I insert a block of such a size that the entire structure fits tightly into the ring.
5/ I first press the middle of the ring between the halves of the fairings, everything is tensioned, then the rest.
6/ I cut 7/ it turns out two baths
8/ I trim, adjust the halves and glue them together using cyacrine. For reliability, a strip of oracal film is glued over the gluing.
For those who are interested.
I wrote a little about my developments.
CORD IN THE GYM
Probably every adult in our country knows how to make a paper airplane. After all, this simple toy, originally from childhood, invariably delights and amazes with its ability to fly. Before the dominance of tablets and other gadgets, it was ordinary paper airplanes that delighted boys of all ages during recess.
How many schemes for assembling this toy do you know? Did you know that from an ordinary sheet of A4 paper, you can fold many different types of aircraft, including long- and far-flying ones, as well as military models?
Are you already intrigued? You can start folding airplanes right now. After all, all you need for this is paper, desire, a little patience and our diagrams. Let's fly!
The simplest diagrams of a basic aircraft model
Before moving on to complex models, let's refresh our memory on the basics of aircraft construction. We bring to your attention the 2 easiest ways to fold an airplane.Using the first scheme, it is easy to get a universal airplane familiar from childhood. It does not have any special takeoff and landing characteristics, but folding it is not difficult even for a child. An adult can complete the assembly in just a minute.
If even the first scheme seemed too complicated to you, use the simplified method. It allows you to get the desired result as quickly as possible.
He's in the video:
An airplane that flies for a long time
Every child’s dream is a long-flying airplane. And now we will help you make it a reality. Using the diagram provided, you can fold a model that differs in flight duration.Remember that flight performance is affected by the size of your aircraft.
Excess weight, which means the length of the wings, prevents the plane from flying. That is, a glider must have short, wide wings. Another friend of planning is the absolute symmetry of the model.
You need to throw it not forward, but upward. In this case, it will stay in the sky for a long time, smoothly descending from a height.
Find answers to the remaining questions and all the subtleties of folding a paper glider in the step-by-step video tutorial.
Circuits that provide fast flight
Do you want to take part in an aircraft model competition? They are easy to arrange at home. Just make high-speed airplanes out of paper - and you can set your own records.
Step-by-step following our photo instructions is the key to success. A number of general recommendations will also help beginning paper aviation enthusiasts.
- To improve flight performance, use only a completely flat sheet of paper. Ideal for regular office printers. Any bruises and folds will repeatedly worsen the aerodynamic properties of the model.
- Iron all folds with a ruler to make them clearer.
- Sharp nose of an airplane increases its speed, but at the same time range decreases flight.
Ready-made crafts can be painted with the children. This exciting activity will allow you to turn a folded piece of paper into a real attack aircraft or an unusual fighter.
Approach creating your models like a science experiment. The speed and ease of assembling origami airplanes allows you to analyze their flight and make the necessary changes to the design.
Be sure to check out the video master classes on how to create fast paper airplanes to avoid annoying mistakes and learn from the experience of others.
Paper long-range fighter
Describing this aircraft model, many enthusiastically promise that it will be able to fly 100 meters and call it a super-airplane. At the same time, they are not at all embarrassed that the officially registered record for the flight range of a paper airplane is only 69 m 14 cm.
However, doubts aside. In any case, such a cool handsome man is worthy of your efforts to create it. For this craft, stock up on a sheet of A4 paper (you can take thick colored paper to make the airplane as beautiful as possible), unlimited patience and accuracy. If your goal is a realistic fighter, take your time assembling it and follow the photo instructions step by step.
There is also a video at your disposal from which you will learn how to properly assemble a paper fighter plane that stays in the air for a long time.
A model that features stable flight
A paper airplane takes off and immediately begins to fall, or instead of a straight trajectory it writes arcs. Does this sound familiar to you?Even this children's toy has certain aerodynamic properties. This means that it is the duty of all beginning aircraft builders to approach the construction of a paper model with full responsibility.
We invite you to fold another cool airplane. Thanks to its blunt nose and wide deltoid wings, it will not go into a tailspin, but will delight you with a beautiful flight.
Do you want to perfectly master all the intricacies of building this glider? Check out the detailed and accessible video tutorial. After a powerful charge of inspiration, you will definitely want to fold an airplane with your own hands that will flutter like a bird.
The corn plane is an original craft for young aircraft modelers
Do you have a growing boy who already loves making things, gluing and cutting? Give him a little time - and together you can make a small model of a corn-crop airplane. It will definitely bring a lot of joy: first from joint creativity, and then from fun with a toy you made with your own hands.
For work you will need the following materials:
- colored paper;
- double-sided colored cardboard;
- Matchbox;
- scissors;
- PVA glue.
First of all, cover the matchbox with colored or white paper. Cut a strip of cardboard 3 cm wide. Half of its length will correspond to the length of the aircraft fuselage. Fold the strip in half and glue it to the box.
Cut out two identical rounded wings, their width should be slightly larger than the width of the box.
Glue the wings to the plane. You can entrust this to your little helper; he will be happy about such an important mission and will do everything well and thoroughly. Cut and glue a rectangle to the front to hide the box.
Cut two elongated ovals for the tail of the plane and a strip for the vertical part. It needs to be folded as shown in the photo.
Glue the blanks to the tail of the corn plant. The resulting cardboard masterpiece remains to be decorated according to your wishes. You can glue stars or small pictures to it. A propeller made from thin strips of paper would be a good addition.
Such a wonderful airplane can be taken to kindergarten as a craft or to please dad on February 23rd.
Video bonuses
Do you want to get a plane that can not only take off high, but also return back to your hands? Do you think this can't happen? But you are wrong.Tireless experimental craftsmen have developed a design for an amazing aircraft - boomerang.
With it, you can show your friends a stunning trick: a launched airplane will obediently fall right into your hands every time. To become known as the master of paper airplanes, check out our video - you will definitely succeed.
It would seem that all the paper airplane samples have already been reviewed and tested in practice, but we still have something to surprise you with. We invite you to watch a video lesson on creating a realistic glider plane.
You don't even need origami folding skills, you just cut out the outline from paper. This model has excellent flight characteristics, and the whole secret lies in... ordinary plasticine. Watch the video, be surprised and amazed.
Creating various paper airplanes is not only a wonderful activity that allows you to drive away boredom and put away the ubiquitous gadgets. It develops intelligence, accuracy and fine motor skills. That is why it is so useful to include this type of activity in the program of joint leisure with children.
Perhaps the first unsightly model will be your child’s first step towards a serious interest in aircraft modeling. And it is in your family that a brilliant designer of passenger airliners or new jet fighters will grow up. Anything is possible. There is no point in looking too far into the future, but devoting an hour or two to folding paper airplanes is definitely worth it.
Source unknownArticle from the magazine "Modelist-Constructor" No. 10 for 1969.
The author of the article is Malinovsky G.
Scan: Petrovich (website http://mkma...nacwhf.ru/)
Drawings of an aircraft model of this aircraft are also provided.
It was tested in Zlatoust in the 60s. An unusually designed airplane named “Baby”, built by the guys from the young technicians station. An airplane with an engine of only 30 hp. With. The plane was built by schoolchildren, and its chief designer and test pilot was Lev Aleksandrovich Komarov, an instructor in aircraft modeling and gliding, a man of extraordinary creative abilities.
For the first time, the almanac “UMK”, the predecessor of our magazine, told readers about “Baby”. Now (in response to numerous requests from readers), the drawings and description of this aircraft, significantly expanded, are published again, as well as its models.
“Malysh” is a single-seat monoplane designed for sports training flights within a radius of 100 km from the airfield. According to the scheme - a high-wing tray; The aircraft structure is all-wood; covering - canvas and thin plywood. All wooden parts are glued together with casein glue. The aircraft does not have complex mechanical components; all its parts are extremely simple.
FUSELAGE - truss-braced (Fig. 1). Its entire bow, up to and including the cockpit, is covered with 2 mm thick plywood. Behind the cockpit, the fuselage braces are reinforced with wire braces. A semicircular gargrot consisting of plywood frames and pine stringers is fixed on top of the spatial truss thus formed. The covering of the part of the fuselage located behind the cockpit is linen. The exception is the rear of the fuselage, where the tail is attached: it is covered with plywood 1.5 mm thick.
The cabin dimensions were chosen to be the same as those of the training glider. The pilot's seat was taken from a decommissioned Yak-18 aircraft.
The cabin is equipped with a speed indicator, altitude indicator, turn indicator, and variometer (Fig. 2). The usual control handle and pedals are located on the cabin floor. The wiring from the control levers to the rudders is cable, and to the ailerons it is mixed. The engine control is located on the left side of the cab. The throttle and jet control levers are located at hand, next to them is the ignition switch, and just ahead is the starting magneto handle. On the right is the fuel pump bulb, near the pilot's seat there is a 10-liter gasoline tank made of 0.15 mm thick tin. A fire partition is reinforced at the front of the fuselage. The motor belt is M-shaped, welded from steel pipes 18X16 mm. The nodes by which the engine mount is connected to the fuselage are also the fastening parts for the front landing gear and the front wing pylon struts. The motor mounting parts are adjustable in length, making it possible to shift the propeller thrust axis within a small range. Rubber damping washers are mounted at the junction of the engine and the engine mount, so vibration from engine operation is almost not transmitted to the fuselage.
The “Kid” has a ski chassis. According to the design, it is the same as that of the PO-2 aircraft, and consists of steel pipes braced with a steel cable. The rear landing gear has spring shock absorption with a vibration damper.
SKID— spring type, equipped with a small ski, controlled by pedals together with the rudder. The most important metal components of the “Baby” are made of steel. After welding, all these parts were heat treated and sandblasted.
WING - detachable in the center, has a constant width along the span and smooth end curves. Wing profile "Clark-V", with a relative thickness of 11.7. The entire wing is given a slight negative twist. The end ribs are twisted relative to the central one by 2°. The wing design is single-spar.
SPAR - box-shaped. The spar flanges are pine, laminated from slats, the walls are 1 mm thick plywood. The places of the spar where the fastening points are located are reinforced with bosses and plywood overlays. Diaphragms made of thin slats are glued inside the spar, which guarantees the stability of the walls. To obtain the third point of attachment of the wing to the fuselage and for attaching the ailerons, there is a lightweight auxiliary spar of a U-shaped section.
RIBS with lightening holes are made of plywood 1 mm thick with double-sided edging with pine slats with a section of 4X5 mm. The wing tip to the front box spar is covered with 1 mm thick plywood. This sock, together with the spar, forms a V-shaped plywood pipe, which absorbs the bulk of the torque. In three sections of each half-wing between the ribs there are additional plywood sheathing reinforcements. In addition, for greater rigidity of the wing, frame struts are built into the four ribs. These spacers are connected to the main and auxiliary side members with bolts and glue. The wing is attached to the upper part of the fuselage by means of a pylon consisting of steel pipes. In the lower part of the fuselage, the wing is mounted on a strut and braced with wire with a tension tender. The wing strut is metal, adjustable in length. It is possible to adjust the angle of installation of the wing on the fuselage, the transverse angle V and the position of the wing along the fuselage within 100 mm (towards the front centering).
TAIL- normal design, tray. The profile of both vertical and horizontal tails is symmetrical, with a relative thickness of 8%. The stabilizer is one-piece. The toes of the stabilizer, fin, elevators, rudder and ailerons are covered with plywood. The rudders and ailerons have no aerodynamic or weight compensation.
The KEEL is made integral with the aft part of the fuselage, due to which a rigid pyramidal spar is formed, to which the stabilizer is connected through the upper struts. Attaching the stabilizer to the fuselage allows pre-flight adjustment of the stabilizer installation angle.
The Malysh uses an LK-2 engine of its own design. This is a two-cylinder, two-stroke “boxer” with a horizontal arrangement of cylinders working alternately. For one revolution of the engine crankshaft, two working strokes occur. The cylinder displacement is 700 cm3, the compression ratio is 7. Some ready-made parts from our modern motorcycles and tractors were used in the manufacture of the engine. The engine was as lightweight as possible; the requirements for it were the same as for any aircraft.
The main technical data of the Malysh aircraft are as follows:
wingspan - 6.9 m;
length - 4.75 m;
area - 8 m^2;
wing chord in the center - 1.2 m;
the angle of installation of the wing to the fuselage axis is 3 m^2;
aileron area - 0.52 m^2,
aileron deflection angles: up - 30°, down - 30°;
transverse wing V angle - 1° (on each side);
Stabilizer span - 2.3 m;
horizontal tail area - 1.53 m^2 (including elevator);
elevator area - 0.88 m^2;
The angle of installation of the stabilizer to the fuselage axis is 0° (can be adjusted from - 2° to +3°;
Elevator deflection angles: up - 34°, down - 30°;
vertical tail area - 0.64 m^2 (including rudder);
rudder area - 0.54 m^2;
rudder deflection angles - 30° to the left and right;
Empty weight: 110.25 kg;
take-off weight - 200 kg;
wing load - 25 kg/m^2;
power load - 6.7 kg/l, s.;
alignment - 33...35% along the chord;
Ski run length up to 50...120 m;
speed when lifting off the ground - 65 km/h;
speed when climbing - 90 km/h;
maximum speed - 110 km/h;
landing speed - 55... 60 km/h;
the highest permissible dive speed is 160 km/h.
Weight of individual parts:
fuselage with fixed equipment - 27 kg;
chassis with skis assembled - 10.5 kg;
rudder - 1.8 kg;
horizontal tail - 5.75 kg;
wing with ailerons - 28 kg;
struts with wing attachment points - 5 kg;
engine with propeller - 32.2 kg.
Plane diagram:
Building my own homemade airplane - a biplane - has been my dream since childhood. However, I was able to implement it not so long ago, although I paved the way to the sky in military aviation, and then on a hang-glider. Then he built an airplane. But the lack of experience and knowledge in this matter also produced a corresponding result - the plane never took off.
The failure did not exactly discourage the desire to build aircraft, but it cooled the ardor thoroughly - a lot of time and effort had been spent. And what helped revive this desire was, in general, an incident when the opportunity arose to inexpensively purchase some parts from a decommissioned An-2 aircraft, better known among the people as the “Corn Man”.
And I only purchased ailerons with trim tabs and flaps. But from them it was already possible to make wings for a light biplane aircraft. Well, the wing is almost half the plane! Why did you decide to build a biplane? Yes, because the aileron area was not enough for a monoplane. But for a biplane it was quite enough, and the wings from the An-2 ailerons were even shortened a little.
Ailerons are located only on the lower wing. They are made from twin aileron trimmers of the same An-2 aircraft and are suspended on the wing on ordinary piano hinges. To increase the efficiency of aircraft control, wooden (pine) triangular slats 10 mm high are glued along the trailing edge of the ailerons and covered with strips of covering fabric.
The biplane aircraft was conceived as a training aircraft, and according to the classification it belongs to ultra-light devices (ultralights).
By design, the homemade biplane is a single-seat, single-strut biplane with a tricycle landing gear with a steerable tail wheel.
I couldn’t find any prototype, and therefore I decided to design and build according to the classical scheme and, as motorists say, without additional options, that is, in the simplest version with an open cockpit.
The upper wing of the “Grasshopper” is raised above the fuselage (like a parasol) and fixed slightly in front of the pilot’s cabin on a support made of duralumin pipes (from the An-2 aileron rods) in the shape of an inclined pyramid.
The wing is detachable and consists of two consoles, the joint between which is covered with a cover. The wing set is metal (duralumin), the covering is linen impregnated with enamel. The wing tips and root parts of the wing consoles are also covered with a thin duralumin sheet. The upper wing consoles are additionally supported by struts running from the attachment points of the inter-wing struts to the lower fuselage spars.
The air pressure receiver is fixed at a distance of 650 mm from the end of the left upper wing console. The lower wing consoles are also detachable and are attached to the lower fuselage spars (on the sides of the cabin). The gaps between the root part and the fuselage are covered with linen (impregnated with enamel) fairings, which are attached to the consoles with adhesive tapes - burdocks.
The installation angle of the upper wing is 2 degrees, the lower one is 0 degrees. The transverse V at the upper wing is 0, and at the lower one it is 2 degrees. The sweep angle of the upper wing is 4 degrees, and that of the lower wing is 5 degrees.
The lower and upper consoles of each wing are connected to each other by struts made, like the struts, from duralumin pipes from the control rods of the An-2 aircraft.
The remaining (rear) fuselage frames are triangular, isosceles.
The frame is covered with unbleached calico, which is then impregnated with homemade “enamelite” - celluloid dissolved in acetone. This coating has proven itself well among amateur aircraft designers.
The front part of the biplane fuselage (up to the cockpit) on the left side in flight is covered with panels of thin plastic. The panels are removable for easy ground access to controls in the cab and under the engine. The fuselage bottom is made of 1 mm thick duralumin sheet.
The tail of an airplane - a biplane - is classic. All its elements are flat.
The frames of the fin, stabilizer, rudders and elevators are welded from thin-walled steel pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. The linen covering is sewn to the frame parts, and the seams are additionally taped with strips of the same calico fabric impregnated with enamel. The stabilizer consists of two halves that are attached to the keel.
To do this, an M10 pin is passed over the fuselage through the keel near the leading edge, and a tubular axis with a diameter of 14 mm is passed at the trailing edge. Ears with sector grooves are welded to the root rods of the stabilizer halves, which serve to install the horizontal tail at the required angle, depending on the mass of the pilot.
Each half is placed with an eye on a stud and secured with a nut, and the trailing edge tube is placed on the axle and pulled to the keel by a brace made of steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm.
From the editor. To prevent spontaneous rotation of the stabilizer in flight, it is advisable to make several holes for a pin instead of a sector groove in the ears.
But the homemade two-bladed monoblock (from pine plywood) pulling propeller with a diameter of 1400 mm and a pitch of 800 mm has not yet been changed, although I plan to replace it with a more suitable one. The planetary gearbox with a gear ratio of 2.22... the new engine came from some foreign car.
The engine muffler is made from a ten-liter foam fire extinguisher cylinder. The fuel tank with a capacity of 17 liters is from the tank of an old washing machine - it is made of stainless steel. Installed behind the dashboard. The hood is made of thin sheet duralumin.
It has grilles on the sides for the outlet of heated air and on the right there is also a hatch with a cover for exiting the cord with a handle - they start the engine.
The propeller-engine installation on a homemade biplane is suspended on a simple motor mount in the form of two consoles with struts, the rear ends of which are fixed to the struts of the front frame-frame of the fuselage frame.
The aircraft's electrical equipment is 12-volt.
The main landing gear legs are welded from sections of steel pipe with a diameter of 30 mm, and their struts are welded from pipes with a diameter of 22 mm. The shock absorber is a rubber cord wound around the front pipes of the struts and the trapezoid of the fuselage frame. The wheels of the main landing gear are non-braking with a diameter of 360 mm - from a mini-mokie, they have reinforced hubs.
Homemade biplane “Grasshopper”: 1 - propeller (two-blade, monoblock, diameter 1400.1 = 800); 2- muffler; 3 - cockpit fairing; 4- hood; 5 - upper wing console strut (2 pcs.); 6- rack (2 pcs.); 7 - upper wing pylon; 8- transparent visor; 9 - fuselage; 10-keel; 11 - steering wheel; 12 - tail support; 13 - tail steering wheel; 14-main landing gear (2 pcs.); 15 - main wheel (2 pcs.); 16 - right console of the upper wing; 17-left upper wing console; 18 - right console of the lower wing; 19-left lower wing console; 20-air pressure receiver; 21 - lining for the joint of the upper wing consoles; 22 - stabilizer and keel brace (2 pcs.); 23 - engine hood with air intake; 24 - gas flap; 25 - stabilizer (2 pcs.); 26 - elevator (2 pcs.); 27-aileron (2 pcs.)
Steel welded frame of the biplane fuselage: 1 - upper spar (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 2- lower spars (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 3 - aircraft control stick support; 4 - spinal beam (2 pcs.); 5-quadrangular frame (pipe with a diameter of 18, 3 pcs.); 6- forming arc of the first and third frames (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 7 - struts and braces (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, according to the drawing); 8- lugs and lugs for fastening and hanging structural elements (as needed); 9 - trapezoid for fastening the rubber cord shock absorber of the main landing gear (pipe with a diameter of 18x1); 10-triangle tail frames (18x1 diameter tube, 4 pcs.)
Angles of installation of the wing consoles (a - upper wing; b - lower wing): 1 - transverse V; 2-swept wings; 3 - installation angle
Motor frame of a homemade biplane: I - spar (steel pipe 30x30x2.2 pcs.); 2-spar extension (pipe with a diameter of 22.2 pcs.); 3 - cross member (steel sheet s4); 4 - silent blocks (4 pcs.); 5-lug for fastening the strut (steel sheet s4.2 pcs.); 6 - hood support bow (steel wire with a diameter of 8); 7 strut (pipe diameter 22, 2 pcs.)
The main landing gear of the biplane: 1 - wheel (360 in diameter, from a mini-mokie); 2- wheel hub; .3 - main stand (steel pipe with a diameter of 30); 4 - main strut (steel pipe with a diameter of 22); 5 - shock absorber (rubber band with a diameter of 12); 6 - travel limiter of the main rack (cable with a diameter of 3); 7 - shock absorber mounting trapezoid (fuselage truss element); 8- fuselage truss; 9 additional landing gear (steel coarse with a diameter of 22); 10- shock absorber grip (pipe with a diameter of 22); 11 - additional strut (steel pipe with a diameter of 22); 12 connection racks (steel pipe with a diameter of 22)
Instrument gloss (at the bottom you can clearly see the rudder and tail wheel control pedals on the trapezoid and the rubber shock absorber of the main landing gear): 1 - carburetor throttle control handle; 2 - horizontal speed indicator; 3 - variometer; 4 - instrument panel mounting screw (3 pcs.); 5—turn and slide indicator; 6-light engine failure alarm; 7 - ignition switch; 8-cylinder head temperature sensor; 9 - rudder control pedals
On the right side of the hood there is a window for the carburetor air filter, engines and engine starting device
The UM Z 440-02 engine from the Lynx snowmobile fit well into the contours of the fuselage and provided the aircraft with good flight performance