Fragrant pagoda festival in vietnam. Fragrant Pagoda Fragrant Pagoda Hanoi how to get there

Fragrant Pagoda one of the oldest and most revered in Vietnam Buddhist sanctuaries, located 70 kilometers from the center Hanoi). In fact, the Fragrant Pagoda is a whole complex of caves and pagodas in the mountains Fragrant Terraces(Huong Tich), and visiting this complex is akin to a short trip - a boat ride, descent into caves, climbing to the peaks. The variety of routes, which leaves freedom of choice, adds to the attractiveness of the trip. In spring, the complex on the Fragrant Terraces becomes a center of Buddhist pilgrimage. People come here from different parts of the country to offer prayers - it is believed that if you do this at the beginning of the Lunar Year (in spring), you can protect your family from evil spirits for the whole year. The peak of the pilgrimage occurs from mid-March to April, and the festival itself lasts three months (apparently so that everyone has time).

The journey, for everyone without exception, begins with a transfer to a metal flat-bottomed boat. Tickets are sold at a booth on the shore next to a long line of red-brown metal vessels. Expect to pay between 50,000 and 100,000 per boat. If you bought a tour in Hanoi, then there will be no additional payments. After half an hour of sailing among the rice fields, a walk awaits you. After winding about three hundred meters from the pier, among shops and restaurants, the road turns into a stone-lined area, at the end of which there is a staircase leading to the outer gate Thien Chu Pagodas (Chua Thien Tru)- the first on the way from the pier, “the pagoda leading to heaven.” Its first buildings were erected by three monks in 1442-1447. But that is not the purpose of the visit.

Until recently, the path to the Fragrant Pagoda itself was impossible for the elderly and not particularly pleasant for tourists (who want to spend about 3-6 hours of precious time going up and down, even among beautiful mountains). The cable car (cap treo), opened in 2005, reduces the distance and saves time and effort - the latter circumstance has become a fundamental factor in the tourist development of the place. Just a five-minute flight over forested mountains, and you are at the finish line, or rather a curve (the ascent on foot takes an hour and a half). At the top you are immediately immersed in a never-ending cloud of smoke emitted by thousands of incense sticks lit in the pagoda of the same name. Through the wall of smoke, a huge depression in the rock gradually begins to emerge, and at the very bottom there are two entrances to a cave in which Buddha statues and altars were erected many centuries ago. Stay in the depths of the pagoda for a few minutes to look at the silhouettes of people and statues in the back rays of the sun, barely breaking through the wisps of fragrant smoke.

A tour to the Perfume Pagoda can be purchased from Hanoi travel agencies for $12-15; The trip lasts all day. The cable car costs 35,000 one way, for children - 15,000 dong, operating hours: 7:30-11:30 and 13:30-17:30, on weekends and holidays - without a break.

On the third day of our trip, we went to the Huong Tich Mountains to explore the Fragrant Pagoda.

From Hanoi you can get there by car in two hours, and then swim along the river for at least an hour.

If you are planning to visit Tam Coc and the Marble Mountains, then visiting the Fragrant Pagoda is not necessary - the river landscapes are similar to Tam Coc, and the cave temples of the Marble Mountains are more impressive. But we didn’t know this, besides, I generally like such landscapes and would be happy to look at them again.

On the way to the Fragrant Pagoda it is much quieter than in Tam Kok, no one bothers you with souvenirs.

Pink nymphs bloom along the banks.

Residents go about their business.

Perhaps there is a passage to the pagoda by land, but there are no serious roads there. Although there are bridges.

The weather deteriorated: it became completely cloudy and cool. Both the polar coat and the jacket will come in handy.

Not far from the pier there is a temple complex (Temple of Heavenly Kitchen), we entered it later.

First we climbed up the steps to the Fragrant Pagoda. You can get there by cable car, but we preferred to take a walk. The path, however, is greatly spoiled by numerous scary-looking pavilions that are open only during the season and are closed in December. They block the landscape.

The Fragrant Pagoda itself (Chua Huong) is a cave temple. A staircase leads to the cave.

The scale here is difficult to assess.

But there is a little man at the entrance.

A lot of incense is constantly burned in the cave, the smell does not have time to evaporate, which is why the pagoda was named that way.

One of several altars:

Have you seen these citrus fruits?

They are called "Buddha's hand". I first met them, oddly enough, in Moscow, in the greenhouse of the Obi store. But I don’t know if there is pulp inside or what they taste like.

To the right of the dish is the sacrificial money; it is burned in a special stove in the courtyard of the temple. Chinese tradition.

There are several other smaller pagodas on the mountain. As we descended, we looked into the ones we found.

Entrance to the complex is paid, and in such places I do not expect to feel the presence of various interesting entities. Usually the ticket booth is not compatible with them. However, here they are. These are the spirits of the area that were before and will be after all these buildings. The worship of people or the offerings made are not very important to them; these entities are completely independent.

Our not very modest lunch, included in the price of the excursion. Animal food includes fish and duck - everything that lives and grows in the local river.

But drinks, especially alcoholic ones, come at an additional cost.

Dogs and snakes are a local specialty. But the Vietnamese do not offer foreigners to eat dog, because they know that they have a nervous attitude towards this issue. But they offer to eat a snake or drink snake tincture.

But we are not fans of this business. I'd rather eat a shrimp.

After lunch we wandered around the Temple of Heavenly Kitchen. There are two versions why it has such a strange name. The first is that the two surrounding mountains resemble cooks bending over a saucepan. The second is that the emperor’s soldiers were once fed here, and the name stuck.

While getting ready to sail along the river on the way back, we accidentally saw a map of the area at the pier.

It turns out that there are many more temples here, but we were only in the upper right part. On this map, the Fragrant Pagoda is called differently than in the guidebooks - Dong Huong Tich. It’s not at all clear how you can get by on your own without a guide.

After crossing the bridge, we climbed up. This is our boat, guide Wu sits in front, and a modest, smiling girl steers the boat.

When I gave her a tip at the end of the trip, she was very embarrassed, which greatly surprised me.

This is how I remember the suburbs of Hanoi in winter - fog and quaint mountains, a lot of greenery and water.

One of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Vietnam is the Fragrant Pagoda (Tua Huong), a vast complex of Buddhist temples and sanctuaries built in the limestone mountains of Hanoi's Huong Thich. The Fragrant Pagoda complex is located 60 kilometers southwest of the central part of the capital of Vietnam, on the banks of the Dai River, in the former province of Hatay, now My Duc County (Huong Son Commune), which has been part of Hanoi since 2008. The center of the complex is a pagoda called the “Inner Temple” (Thua Chong), located in the Huong Thich Cave.

The Fragrant Pagoda is home to one of Huong's longest-running religious festivals, attracting pilgrims from all over the country.

Historical information

Researchers suggest that on the site of the modern Thien Chu Temple, the first small temple was built, already existing in the 15th century, during the reign of Le Thanh Tong. According to legends, the sacred place where it rises was discovered by a monk two thousand years earlier. The monk named this area after the Tibetan mountain on which Buddha led an ascetic life. According to another version, the name, associated with the aroma of flowering trees, was given by local residents.

The stela on the modern temple indicates the year of construction of the Kimzung sanctuary, terrace, stone steps - 1686, during the reign of Le Hi Tong. Tuachong was built around the same time. Over the centuries, new temples were created, and outdated ones were restored. In 1767, the statues of the goddess Guanyin and Buddha were cast in bronze, and in 1793 they were replaced by others; which are still installed there.

During the wars with France and the United States, the complex suffered damage: the gates and the bell tower of the Thien Chu Pagoda were completely destroyed. The bell tower was rebuilt in 1986, and the gates were rebuilt in 1994.

The temples that make up the Fragrant Pagoda complex are located in the forest among the hills of the Huong Mountains.

Dengqing Pagoda

Tourists who travel to the Fragrant Pagoda along the Dai River will be able to see the very first structure of the complex - the Dengchin Pagoda, built to worship the warlords of the Hung Kings. There are two kneeling elephants on both sides of the Dengchin Gate, and inside there is a hall intended for ceremonies.

Thien Chu Pagoda

Behind Deng Chinh is the Thien Chu Pagoda (heavenly kitchen) and the Vien Cong Bao Stupa, built of brick, in which the leader of the reconstruction of the Vien Quang Pagoda is buried. Nearby is the Thienthuy Stupa of natural origin (resulting from the destruction of the surface of the hill). Thienchu ​​Pagoda has a bell tower and Triratna Hall, built in the 1980s. There is a large sculpture of Guanyin inside.

Zayoan Temple

On the way from Thien Chu to Huong Thich Cave is Zayoan Temple. Nearby is the Thien Nien Thanh Tri pond, and nine streams flow into it.

Huong Thich Cave

As noted above, the center of the complex is the Inner Temple (“Tuachong”), located in the Huong Thich cave. The cave entrance resembles the mouth of a dragon. Visitors have the opportunity to see Chinese characters (nam thien de nhat dong) carved on the walls, meaning “first cave of the southern world”; The inscription, dating back to 1770, was probably made by the ruler Chin Sam.

Inside the cave there are many statues, including statues of Buddha and Guanyin, made of green stone, as well as statues of arhats (Buddhist monks who have reached the highest degree of Enlightenment). The left leg of the statue of Guanyin (a mythical deity in female form) is extended, the foot is on a lotus flower, and the bent right leg is supported by another lotus flower. In an elegant hand lies a pearl.

In addition, in the cave there are stalagmites and stalactites, some of which have been smoothed out due to constant long-term rubbing with the palms of visitors.

Other elements of the complex include Vong Temple, Fat Thich Temple, Tien Son Pagoda, and Thuet Kinh Grotto.

Common ways to spend time

Tua Huong (Perfume Pagoda) has many traditional practices associated with Buddhism, ancestor worship, and animism (the belief in the existence of souls and spirits).

Pilgrimage

Most Vietnamese who visit the Fragrant Pagoda are pilgrims. Pilgrims have a traditional exchange of greetings, “A-zi-da-fat” or “Namo amitabha buddha.” There are several roads for pilgrimage. The most popular route is to sail from the Yen shipyard and stop at the Chin Shrine, where you can venerate the first shrine and officially begin the pilgrimage. Next, pilgrims cross the Hoi Bridge into the cave where Than Son is located. Then the road runs to the Cho shipyard, from where pilgrims walk on foot to the Thien Chu Pagoda, and further to the Tien and Zayoan temples. Believers believe that Buddha took a bath in this place in order to cleanse himself of the dirty dust of the human race. Therefore, travelers, hoping to wash away bad karma, wash their faces and hands in the Long Tuyen well. Here they visit the Quavong Temple and Tuyet Kinh Cave to bow to the mountain goddess; as well as the Fattit Shrine, which contains a stone where, as legend has it, the trace of Guanyin remained.

The further path of the pilgrims is directed towards the final destination of the route: Huong Thich Cave. It contains many statues, but often pilgrims come to receive blessings from the stalactites and stalagmites, many of which have names. Some pray to stalagmites and stalactites, which should bring prosperity; childless, praying to Nui-Ko and Nui-Kau, wish and hope to get offspring, the names of these formations mean “Mountain-boy” and “Mountain-girl”. You can often see visitors gathered under a stalactite that closely resembles a woman's breasts. To gain health, they try to catch droplets of water falling from it. For example, stalactites and stalagmites have names: “Mountain of Coins”, “Cocoon”, “Silver Tree”, “Golden Tree”, “Rice Stack”, “Basket of Silkworms”.

Festivals

During the pilgrimage season, the Huong Pagoda Festival is held. Hundreds of thousands of people visit Huong Thich Cave and other temples during this period. The Fragrant Pagoda Festival is the longest in Vietnam. It is dedicated to the “holy mothers”, Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara and Buddha Shakyamuni. The ceremonial beginning falls on the 15th day of the second month in accordance with the lunar calendar. However, the influx of visitors begins in mid-January and continues until mid-March. In addition, the festival is also considered an excellent place for young people to meet romantically.

Fragrant Pagoda is a vast complex of Buddhist temples and sanctuaries built in the limestone mountains of Huong Thich in Hanoi, one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in the country. It is the site of a major religious festival, Huong (Lễ hội chùa Hương), which attracts pilgrims from all over Vietnam. The Fragrant Pagoda complex is located on the banks of the Dai River in Huong Son commune (My Duc district, former Ha Tay province, united with Hanoi). The center of the complex is a pagoda called the “inner temple”, located in Huong Thich Cave.

It is believed that the first small temple was built on the site of today's Thien Chu Temple, which already existed during the reign of Le Thanh Tong in the 15th century. Legends say that the sacred site on which it stands was discovered 2000 years earlier by a monk. He named this area after the Tibetan mountain where Buddha lived as an ascetic. Another version is that the name was given by local residents (meaning the aroma of flowering trees). A stele on the current temple indicates the year the terrace, stone steps and sanctuary were built at Kimzung - 1686, during the reign of Le Hi Tong. Tuachong was built around the same time. Over time, new temples appeared, and old ones were renovated. The statues of Buddha and the goddess Guanyin were cast in bronze in 1767, and in 1793 they were replaced with others; these same statues still stand there today. During the wars with France and the United States, the complex was damaged: the gates and bell tower of the Thiên Trù pagoda were destroyed. The bell tower was rebuilt in 1986, and the gate in 1994.

The temples that make up the Fragrant Pagoda complex are distributed among the hills in the forest of the Huong Mountains.

If you drive to the Fragrant Pagoda along the Dai River, the first building you come across in the complex will be the Deng Trinh Pagoda (Đền Trình), built to worship the warlords of the Hung Kings. There are two kneeling elephants on the sides of the Dengchin Gate, and inside there is a hall for ceremonies.

Behind Deng Chinh are the Thiên Trù Pagoda (天㕑, heavenly kitchen) and the brick stupa of Vien Cong Bao, in which the leader of the restoration of the Vien Quang Pagoda is buried. The naturally occurring Thienthuy Stupa (created as a result of hill erosion) is located nearby. Thien Chu has a bell tower and Triratna Hall, built in the 1980s. Inside there is a large sculpture of Guanyin.

On the road from Thien Chu to Huong Thich Cave there is Giải Oan Temple. Near it is the Thien Nien Than Chi pond, into which nine streams flow.

The center of the complex is the Inner Temple (“Tuachong”), located in the Huong Thich Cave (Hương Tích). The entrance to the cave looks like the mouth of a dragon, Chinese characters are carved on the walls (Nam thiên đệ nhất động, 南天第一峝, Nam thiên đệ nhất động, 南天第一峝, Nam thiên de nhat dong), which means “the first cave of the southern world”; the inscription dates back to 1770, and was probably painted by the ruler Chinh Sam.

Inside the cave there are many statues, including statues of Buddha and Guanyin, made of green stone, and statues of arhats. The left leg of the Guanyin statue is extended, the foot rests on a lotus flower, the right leg is bent, supported by another lotus flower. There is a pearl in his hand. The cave also contains stalactites and stalagmites, some of which have become very smooth due to constant rubbing by the palms of visitors.

Other elements of the complex include the Tiên Sơn Pagoda (仙山), Thuyet Kinh Grotto, Phật tích (佛跡), Vong Temple.

At Fragrant Pagoda there are many traditional practices associated with Buddhism, animism or ancestor worship.

Many Vietnamese visit the Fragrant Pagoda as pilgrims. The pilgrims exchange the greeting A-zi-da-fat (A Di Đà Phật) or “Namo amitabha buddha.” There are several routes for the pilgrimage, the most popular is to sail from Yen Shipyard and stop at Chinh Shrine to officially begin the pilgrimage and venerate the first shrine. Then, across the Hoi Bridge, pilgrims enter the cave where Than Son is located. Next, the path goes to the Cho shipyard, from where pilgrims walk on foot to the Thien Chu Pagoda, after which - to the Tien and Zayoan temples. It is believed that the Buddha took a bath here to cleanse himself of the dust of the human race, and pilgrims wash their faces and hands in the Long Tuyen well in the hope of washing away bad karma. Here you can also visit Tuyet Kinh Cave and Quavong Temple to worship the mountain goddess, or Fattit Sanctuary, where there is a stone on which, according to legend, Guanyin's footprint remained.

From here, pilgrims head to the final destination of the route: Huong Thich Cave. There are many statues there, but pilgrims often come to seek blessings from the stalactites and stalagmites, many of which have names. The childless wish to obtain offspring by praying to Núi Cô and Núi Cậu, their names meaning “Girl Mountain” and “Boy Mountain”; others pray to stalactites and stalagmites, which should grant prosperity. Often, visitors gather under the stalactite, which resembles a woman's breast, and catch drops of water falling from it to receive health from it. Examples of stalactite and stalagmite names: “Mountain of Coins” (đụn Tiền), “Golden Tree”, “Silver Tree”, “Basket of Silkworms”, “Cocoon” and “Rice Stack”.

The pilgrimage season is the Huong Pagoda Festival, during which time hundreds of thousands of people visit Huong Thich Cave and other temples. The Fragrant Pagoda Festival is the longest in Vietnam, officially starting on the 15th of the second month of the lunar calendar, but the influx of visitors continues from mid-January to mid-March. The festival is also considered a good place for young people to meet romantically.

The Vietnamese capital knows how to surprise its guests not only with modern hotels and skyscrapers of business districts, but also with ancient Buddhist shrines. Fragrant Pagoda is a unique temple complex in My Deuk district, an hour's drive from the center of Hanoi. It is believed that the first monastic monasteries appeared here 2000 years ago, and the whole world learned about them only in the 18th century, thanks to the French colonists who allocated money for the construction of new churches. Now the Fragrant Pagoda is regularly included in the lists of the most revered religious attractions not only in Vietnam, but throughout Southeast Asia.

Excursion route

In fact, the excursion begins already at the stage of transporting tourists along the Yen Vi waterway, which is undeservedly called a “stream”. The views from the water surface are such that you can immediately take out your camera and take pictures of endless hills covered with lush greenery. The crossing is long, and you will have to wait about an hour for the first stop - this will be one of the key temples - the Dengchin Pagoda, about which there is very little information left.

The exact date of construction is controversial, but the fact remains that the altar was dedicated to the deified generals of the royal Hung dynasty. The warlike appearance is complemented by the image of two war elephants bowing at the entrance to the shrine. Inspecting it will not take much time, and guests will return to the boats to continue their journey to the Thien Chu Pagoda - one of the most beautiful Buddhist buildings in all of Vietnam.

Of course, there is a mystical story here too. For example, one of the stupas standing nearby is of natural origin. It was formed as a result of the collapse of rock, and the dome-shaped mound was called a miracle. The pagoda itself was built in memory of the many-armed goddess of mercy Guanyin. According to legend, the savior during the flood pulled hundreds of people from the waters of Yen-Wee, for which she was immortalized by them in a bronze statue.

Next, the groups go to the Zayoan Temple, which may not be remarkable in itself, but its surroundings are of great importance for pilgrims. It's all about the unusual pond, it is created by nine pure springs gushing directly from the ground. Sacred texts claim that the great Buddha washed his face and hands once in this icy water, and every guest who wants to cleanse himself of sins tries to repeat the ritual.


The culmination of the long journey to enlightenment is the Tuachong Inner Temple, which is located in the halls of the Huong Thich karst cave. There are always a lot of people here, even in bad weather the queues can reach a couple of hundred meters.Most of them are pilgrims with very peculiar beliefs. For example, there is nothing unusual in the fact that an exalted Vietnamese man prays fervently, rubbing his palms on a huge stalagmite. The main rule is to never disturb anyone.

Any foreigner has the right to join spiritual practices and meditations, regardless of skin color and beliefs. At the end of the excursion, everyone will have about 40 minutes to become imbued with Asian religion and even leave a note with their innermost desire at one of the altars. The rest are advised to go to the souvenir shops, however, the prices there are not at all affordable.

This concludes the journey to the legendary Fragrant Pagoda. Tourists spend up to 5 hours in the lands sacred to Vietnamese believers, 3 hours are spent on the road, a total of 7-8 hours for the entire excursion route. There is no point in planning anything else on this day - traffic jams on the evening roads of Hanoi have not been canceled, and there is no guarantee that you will return to your hotel before sunset.

Way to travel

Tourist groups are picked up from hotels by cars (up to 3 people) and minibuses (up to 10 people) and driven towards Huong Son commune. This is only the first stage, after which everyone is dropped off at the pier of the Yen Vi River, and the further journey takes place in flat-bottomed boats. In the complex itself, you can only move on foot, with the exception of climbing to the top of Huong Mountain, where tourists are taken by an electric cable car.


Excursion cost

The minimum price for a comprehensive visit to the temple ensemble starts from$110. For tourists, this amount includes transfer from the hotel and back, a competent and Russian-speaking guide, all internal water and cable car crossings to the top of the year, and access to most excursion facilities.

Visitors to the Fragrant Pagoda will have to pay extra for a set lunch in one of the monastery restaurants - from $15.

Tourist Information

The place was called “fragrant” because of the numerous orchards, which during the flowering season emit a smell that can be felt many kilometers away.

The attraction is a traditional Buddhist monastery with fairly strict rules that all visitors, regardless of religion, must follow. The dress code requires you to wear clothing that covers your legs to the knees and shoulders. You can start a conversation with novices and monks only in extreme cases; only a male person has the right to touch a clergyman; for women of any age this is taboo.

From February (or from the second month of the lunar calendar) to mid-March, the pilgrimage Huong Festival takes place. Even if you are not a Buddhist, it is worth visiting this vibrant spectacle at least once in your life. Hundreds of thousands of girls and young people come here to find a partner for their future marriage - real romantic performances with a fire show and a unique oriental flavor are organized for lonely hearts.

The grounds of the Fragrant Pagoda contain the graves of many famous Vietnamese people. Access to a number of stupas is limited and you will not see any warning signs. Before inspecting the buildings yourself, you should ask the guide where you can go and where you can’t.