Meteora: the most beautiful place in Greece. Monasteries of Meteora. Attractions - Guide to Greece Meteora Greece on the map

How many amazing natural monuments, man-made treasures of mankind and secrets Greece keeps. Today we will talk about one of her most amazing architectural masterpieces, which was created over several generations. We will talk about the unique monasteries of Meteora in Greece. To get to them you will have to go through a difficult and grueling path, because they are located at a dizzying height right on rocky ledges. But believe me, it's worth it!

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At first glance at the monumental complex, ridiculous thoughts enter your head. Maybe the gods themselves descended from ancient Olympus and created this masterpiece? Otherwise, how is it possible to create something like this among inaccessible rocks, at such a great height? This is simply amazing.

According to local legend, the inaccessible mountains of Thessaly were favored by monks long before the fifth century. It was here that they spent time at prayer services and led a hermitic lifestyle. In the high mountain areas, believers spent long hours in prayer, trying to renounce the dark past and learn the true value of life. However, each monk here had his own thoughts, and from bad weather and for the night they hid in small caves, of which there are quite a lot here today.

According to the official version, the first stone of one of the future monasteries was laid by a hermit known as Barnabas. This significant event happened back in 950. At first, small hermitages were formed, which united groups of monks around themselves, and much later they began to grow and turned into a huge monastic complex consisting of separate buildings. This continued until the time when the territory of Greece began to be “torn apart” by numerous tribes of invaders.

Today these places are considered a real Greek “pearl”, which thousands of tourists from all over the world come to personally touch. The amazing image of rocks soaring in the sky is complemented by huge stone monasteries, as if reaching for the clouds. It seems that the buildings are simply hewn out of the rock itself. Already presented? Now add fabulous sunrises and sunsets to the breathtaking picture... Personally, I begin to envy the inhabitants of the hills of Thessaly, before whose eyes such landscapes open up every day!

Construction of monasteries

According to historians, the construction of temple buildings was carried out under difficult conditions. All necessary materials were brought up manually using ordinary rope ladders and ropes. To overcome such a difficult path, the monk had to learn the basics of rock climbing and not be one of the cowards.

During the entire construction, the monks lived quite modestly. For example, their only source of water was crevices and niches cut right into the rocks, in which rainwater collected, and they generally ate what the gods sent them. So it turns out that the titanic work was based almost entirely on enthusiasm and faith.

Which monasteries are included in the complex

The temple complex “floating in the air” includes several structures. Each building is unique and has many interesting facts in its rich history.

Monastery of Agiou Nikolaou Anapavs (St. Nicholas)

The first monastery that I would like to stop at is called Agiou Nikolaou Anapavsa (which translated means St. Nicholas Cathedral). The first mentions of it date back to 1500 years, which, according to some historians, is the time of its foundation. There is reason to believe that the initiator of the creation of the temple was Metropolitan Laris Dionysius, and the famous Cretan artist Theophanes Batas-Strelitsas took part in the painting of the galleries of the building.

Rusanu Monastery

No less interesting is the Rusanu Cathedral, which was founded a little later, around 1545. This magnificent structure is attributed to the brothers Joasaph and Maximus. The main pride is the beautiful paintings, as well as the amazingly beautiful wooden altar carved and gilded. The iconostases located inside are of great value and deserve your attention.

Varlaam Monastery

It was founded in 1517. Theophanes and Nectarius Apsara. The magnificent frescoes that adorn the main gallery are the work of the painting genius Franck Catalano and date back to 1548. It is here that the most ancient and valuable manuscripts, shrouds decorated with gold threads and many other artifacts are kept.

Cathedral of Agnas Triadas

It attracts with its unusual chapel, which is located almost on the highest point of the mountains. To appreciate its original structure, you will have to overcome an additional 140 steps carved into the rock.

Megalo Meteoro Cathedral

Also known as Spaso-Preobrazhensky, it is considered one of the earliest. Its founder is considered to be Athanasius of Meteora, who at one time was a prominent associate of Orthodoxy. It is in this place that the most beautiful frescoes by the famous Theophanes and the largest number of rare icons are located.

Monastery of Agios Stefanou

It is the only building for nuns. By visiting it, tourists will be able to appreciate the impressive collection of relics.

How to get there from Athens

If you are in Athens, you can take the bus that leaves from the station from Terminal B or the train from Larissis station. To save money, buy a round-trip ticket. Useful information for those who chose the bus - it leaves the terminal every two hours from 7.30 to 15.30. You can get to Kalambaka in 4.5 hours.

For those who prefer traveling by rail, you need train 884, which goes there and 885 on the way back. You will spend 5 hours on the road. If you rent a car, you will need to travel almost 400 km through Lamia, Domokos, Karditsa and Trikala, and signs along the way will be quite rare.

How to get there from Thessaloniki

Want to get to Meteora from Thessaloniki? Nothing could be simpler. You can do it in 3 hours by train. When you reach Kalambaka by your chosen route, follow the route to the Plateia Dimarhiou fountain. Next to it there is a stop from which a bus departs to the village of Kastraki. If you are traveling on weekdays, then keep in mind that departure times are at 9 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., if on Saturday or Sunday, then at 8:20 a.m. and 1:20 p.m.

By bus from the village you will get to the Monastery of the Transfiguration of Christ. You can also book a tour at any agency, which will allow everyone to touch ancient history and see with their own eyes the legendary halls painted with frescoes of the first inhabitants and huge libraries. It is here that the most valuable and ancient manuscripts are kept, which, thanks to hermits, have been preserved to this day since the Middle Ages.

Meteors themselves represent a religious shrine, are a modern place of pilgrimage for Greeks and many foreigners, and allow you to see icons that are grandiose in their cultural and historical significance.

These stone sculptures are located near the city of Kalambaka, which is 300 km from Athens. The average height of the rock formations is 300 meters, but some of them reach 600 meters in height.

Many modern climbers do not risk climbing the round, almost vertical walls of unusual rocks. But, looking up at the tops of the pillars, you can see that there is a temple on almost every one of them.

Along winding mountain paths you can climb to the tops of many pillars, from where you can enjoy a picturesque view of the valley of the Pinhos River. According to legend, the first hermit monks appeared in these inaccessible and rocky cliffs, cut off from the world, back in the 9th century. They lived in rock cavities and natural caves, and nearby they created small areas for joint study of spiritual texts and prayers. Later, constant raids by robbers forced the monks to leave their caves and build monasteries on the tops of the cliffs.

It is difficult to even imagine how much labor was required to build these monasteries in such extreme conditions. Until 1920, temples were closed to outsiders - the monks led a very secluded lifestyle, and food was delivered to them by residents of neighboring cities. Transportation of parcels to the tops of the rocks was carried out using ropes and baskets.

At the foot of the rock, each temple had at its disposal a plot of land, which the monks cultivated and grew vegetables and fruits there. They ascended and descended using a complex system of nets, baskets, ropes and carts. If danger arose below, the inhabitants of the monastery cut off all contacts with the outside world - they raised ropes and nets, then no one could disturb their peace and harmony.

No matter how hard the hermits tried to protect their territory with various tricks and traps, the temples were still destroyed and devastated. To this day, only 6 of the 24 monasteries that once crowned the tops of the rocks have survived. They store priceless riches: unique frescoes, icons, medieval manuscripts and other ancient shrines. Currently operating monasteries include the monasteries of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, Varlaam, Rusanou, Great Meteor, Holy Trinity and St. Stephen.

Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas was founded at the beginning of the 14th century by the Metropolitan of Larisa, Dionysius. This is a small monastery, which is reached by a relatively convenient staircase. It has a unique design - the small area of ​​the rock on which the monastery was built forced the monks to build cells, temples and other buildings on several levels.

On the first level of the monastery there is a small chapel of St. Anthony and a crypt in which relics and manuscripts were kept, on the second there is the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, on the third there is the restored chapel of St. John the Baptist, a dining room decorated with frescoes, and a crypt for storing relics.

View from the other side:

The main church of the monastery of St. Nicholas is decorated with magnificent frescoes of the 16th century, executed by the famous Cretan icon painter Theophanes Strelidzas.

Adam names the animals:

Varlaam Monastery was founded in 1517 by the monk-priests Theophanes and Nektarios. It received its name in honor of the monk who, in 1350, was the first to settle on the top of the rock and built there a church dedicated to the Three Saints, a water tank and a cell for himself. No one else followed the example of Varlaam, and after his death this place was abandoned for a long time, until two rich brothers Theophanes and Nektarios founded a monastery there.

The frescoes decorating the main temple were painted by the famous artist Frank Catalano in 1548. The monastery also houses a valuable collection of icons, rare manuscripts, relics, carved wooden crosses, and gold-embroidered shrouds.

Currently, 7 monks live in the Varlaam monastery, who happily welcome guests and kindly conduct conversations with them.

Rusanu Monastery is a convent founded in 1545 by the brothers Maxim and Joasaph. It is located on a low rock, covers the entire surface area and consists of three levels. On the first level there are cells and a church, and the other two levels are occupied by living quarters, an exhibition and reception hall, as well as additional cells. The interior of the monastery is decorated with beautiful paintings, precious lecterns, icons and a wooden altar with gilding and carvings. The nuns who live here have a reputation for being very friendly and hospitable women, often treating their guests to candies and sweets.

Great Meteor(Preobrazhensky Monastery) is the largest and most ancient Meteora monastery, founded at the beginning of the 14th century by Saint Athanasius of Meteora. He was the first to climb this high mountain and built a church and modest cells for the monks here. His successor was St. Joseph, the Serbian king, who in 1373 renounced secular power to become a monk. During his stay in the monastery, he rebuilt the Church of the Transfiguration, built a hospital and a reservoir.

In the 16th century, the Transfiguration Monastery received a significant portion of royal and imperial donations. Then the monastery complex was rebuilt and expanded. A new kitchen, a nursing home, a tower and several chapels were built.

In 1552, the famous artist Theophanes worked on the creation of frescoes in the monastery. These frescoes represent one of the best examples of post-Byzantine monumental painting. The temple houses a rich collection of valuable icons, manuscripts and holy relics.

Monastery of the Holy Trinity is a monastery located on top of one of the most slender and picturesque rocks of Meteora. You can get to the monastery by climbing 140 steps, carved into the rock in 1925, which makes it the most ascetic and peaceful monastery, since not everyone can overcome such a difficult path.

During World War II it was badly damaged and almost all of its treasures were looted.

View of Kalambaka from the Holy Trinity Monastery:

Monastery of St. Stephen is a functioning convent that houses an important relic - the relics of St. Charalampios, which protects against illness and disease. The foundation of the monastery dates back to the 14th century, but the first hermits appeared here in the 12th century. It is located on a high cliff that overlooks the town of Kalambaka. Getting to this monastery is very easy - a stone pedestrian bridge, 8 meters long, leads to it.

Currently, the monastery refectory houses a museum in which valuable monastic relics are exhibited: Byzantine icons of the 17th-18th centuries, a paten with a chalice, as well as a manuscript of the Divine Liturgy, which was written by one of the founders of the monastery.

At the foot of the cliffs lies the city of Kalambaka, whose red roofs look so beautiful from above, from the observation platforms of the St. Stephen's Monastery, and the small town of Kastraki. It is in these cities that tourists who go to Meteora without an excursion can spend the night. You can get to Kalambaka by public transport:

• from Athens:
  • by train, travel time about 5 hours, ticket price for one from 20 €,
  • by bus - it travels a little faster, the journey will take about 4 hours, but the price of the trip is higher - 30 €;
• You can get from Thessaloniki by train in 3 hours; you will also pay about 20 € for a ticket.

Below is a map of the city of Kalambaka.

Next, an independent tourist will have to take a bus or taxi to climb up the rocks to the monasteries themselves. Buses leave from Dimoula Square (red mark on the city map) twice a day, so you can choose to visit Meteora in the first or second half of the day. The fare is only 1.5 €. Taxi drivers are also waiting here for tourists, offering a ride to any of the six monasteries or to the nearest observation deck at the top for only 5–7 €, so this type of transport is more profitable for a large group.

If you wish, you can climb up on your own, but keep in mind that the road winds through the mountains and you will have to walk about four kilometers to the nearest monastery. Many resort towns near Thessaloniki offer bus excursions to Meteora, which can also be an excellent solution to the transport problem. The price of an excursion from Thessaloniki as part of a large group from the tourist office will average 60 € per person, an individual guide with a car for 2–4 people will cost 250–350 €.

We preferred to explore the entire complex on our own, so we rented a car and went to Meteora from the resort town of Katerini. The journey took about two hours, during which time we encountered payment points several times - they charged us from 1.20 to 2.40 €, in total the round trip cost us about 12 €.

What are Meteors?

During the trip to Meteora, the landscapes outside the window were very monotonous: fields, somewhere on the horizon Olympus with its forked peak drowning in the clouds and distant rocks that did not get closer or further along the entire journey. We had already become quite bored with these views, and all the more unexpected for us was the view of the Meteora rocks that opened up to us at the entrance to Kalambaka. In front of us stood majestic gray rocks, as if they had separated from the whole ridge and wanted to show off with separate protrusions-fangs, sticking out of the ground here and there. Driving around the city along a winding mountain road, we admired these gray-black giants and looked for where to stop to take a couple of photos.

However, the first observation deck we encountered was located at a fork in the road: on the left were the convent of St. Stephen and the monastery of the Holy Trinity (Agia Triada), on the right - the convent of St. Barbara - Rusanou, the monasteries of St. Varlaam, St. Nicholas and the Great Meteor - the monastery of the Transfiguration, the most the largest of them all. The view from the observation deck was truly impressive: individual rocks sharply descending into deep ancient crevices, already completely overgrown with bushes and trees, and on their tops there were small but proudly towering monasteries over the abyss. You can’t help but remember that the name Meteor translates as “floating on the rocks” - as correctly said! It is also surprising how harmoniously these monasteries look, partly carved out, partly built on rocks. Light stone, small windows, light red tiled roofs - from a distance they are lost against the backdrop of massive rocks. In the old days, this was an excellent defense against enemies: it is difficult to attack those fortresses that you cannot see from a distance.

The first buildings appeared here in the 11th century, but those monasteries that can be seen today were built in the 14th-16th centuries. Monks and hermits flocked here not only for solitude, but also for salvation from persecution - religious and political. Climbing higher and higher along inaccessible rocks, they found themselves increasingly hidden from the bustle of the world and political unrest. Today the complex includes six large monasteries - two for women and four for men, open to tourists.

Visiting monasteries

Entrance to each monastery costs 3 €. At the same time, the monasteries are open to visitors from 9:00 to 17:00, each of them has one day off per week when you cannot visit it:

• St. Stephen's Monastery is closed on Mondays,
• on Tuesdays – Transfiguration Monastery,
• Rusanu is closed on Wednesdays,
• on Thursday you cannot go to the Holy Trinity Monastery,
• and on Fridays - to the monastery of St. Nicholas.

At the entrance to each monastery there is an attendant who sells entrance tickets and shows where you can get long clothes if you need them. Women will have to wear long, floor-length skirts to visit, and men, if they want to enter the nunneries, will be asked to wear shirts with sleeves so as not to expose their shoulders to the nuns.
Filming on the premises is not prohibited, but at the entrance to all churches there are signs prohibiting photography and video recording inside.

Each monastery has a small church where services for monks and nuns are held daily, and tourists can admire ancient and restored frescoes and beautiful wooden carvings decorating the altar, icon frames, and chairs. The interior decoration of cathedrals is dominated by bright colors: blue, white, red, yellow and gold. The walls are completely covered with paintings, which reminded me of our usual Russian Orthodox churches, but for Catholic Europeans this looks unusually exotic. Also on the territory of each temple you can stroll through several halls or open galleries and admire the views from observation platforms.

Monastery of St. Stephen

We began to explore the complex from the monastery of St. Stephen - one of the most conveniently located. You can get here via two small bridges; you don’t have to climb the mountains along steep stairs, which, given the heat of +34 °C (we were here in mid-July), is a significant advantage.

The Monastery of St. Stephen seemed to us the most uninteresting of all: its observation deck overlooks the panorama of the city of Kalambaka and distant mountains, the Meteors themselves are behind and it is impossible to see them from here. But from the outside, its appearance is impressive: the walls turn into sheer cliffs that form a gloomy stone city wall. On the territory of the monastery you can see a small garden with lavender and medicinal herbs, laid out by the nuns, as well as a museum where samples of the robes of clergy and various objects used for services are displayed, as well as books and letters kept in the libraries of the Meteor monasteries since the 15th century.

Monastery of the Holy Trinity

Then, moving from east to west, we went to the Holy Trinity Monastery - one of the most picturesque in the complex. The journey here from the nearest observation deck takes about half an hour: first, visitors will have to go down a smooth serpentine road, and then climb 140 steep steps. Their height seemed unusually large to me, and therefore it was not easy to climb, but at every turn of the stairs a new, amazing view opened up, and this made the path much easier.

It was funny to see that the monks themselves do not use stairs, but travel in small cabins similar to a cable car. All hard-to-reach monasteries have such mechanisms, which greatly simplifies the lifting and lowering of loads. After looking at the operation of this system for a couple of minutes, we came to the conclusion that in the old days life was much more difficult for the monks: they themselves constantly climbed the mountain, and lifted water and food on themselves. Thinking about this, I realized even better what a miracle of faith and human labor it is to build such monasteries in such an inaccessible place.
In the Holy Trinity Monastery, in addition to the church, you can see ancient rails, a trolley and a hook that were used to transport goods centuries ago, as well as admire the beautiful panorama of Meteora. It is curious that the observation deck here is actually located on the roof of the monastery, but instead of tiles there are rocks themselves, in which some of the premises have been carved out. At the top there is a massive white cross, visible from afar.

Monastery of St. Varlaam

This monastery bears the name of the first monk, who, according to legend, settled here in the 11th century and built a small chapel on the rock. The architectural complex erected here later reminds me very much of a castle: massive walls with turrets, a bridge at the entrance and a small round observation deck in front of the monastery, where flags flutter and from where you can look in all directions, seeing all six Meteor monasteries at once.

The territory of this monastery is distinguished from others by a rather large garden, where we were able to sit down for a while on a wooden bench to relax in the shade and talk with one of the seven monks living here.

Monastery of St. Nicholas

Although this monastery is located lower than the others, it is distinguished by a special grace: the area of ​​the rock is not large, so the structure encircles it. The monastery has several levels, and having climbed here, we enjoyed wandering through the galleries and observation decks inside.

It’s also worth going up for the frescoes painted by the famous Greek artist Theophanes of Crete. But I was especially interested in the church located on the lower level: its area is so small that only one priest can sit at the altar. Here I was especially able to understand how the first, few monks lived in these monasteries: it was difficult to develop large spaces, and therefore everything was built miniature and simple, satisfying the most basic needs.

Rusanu Monastery

Rusanou, or the Monastery of St. Barbara, is the most remote monastery of Meteora, and therefore if you want to visit it, it is better to go here at the very beginning or leave at least an hour at the end of your walk. You can get into it either by stairs going down to the road to Kastraki or by a suspension bridge.

You can visit the monastery for the impressive views: around the sharp rock that surrounds the monastery itself, there are other individual rock teeth rising menacingly from a deep crevice.
On the territory of the monastery itself today there is nothing special to see: all the valuables and relics are stored in the Great Meteor Museum, so we simply refused to visit this monastery - we simply walked around it as much as possible and admired its surroundings.

Monastery of the Transfiguration

Great Meteor is the largest monastery of the complex and from the outside it resembles a small medieval fortified city rather than a religious building. You will have to climb here via a rather steep staircase, partially cut into the rock itself, but the journey is worth it: you will find yourself in the largest, oldest and highest monastery of the complex. It is no coincidence that it is called the Great Meteor - it has all the very best.

On the territory of the Monastery of the Transfiguration you can see rich frescoes and icons, as well as holy relics transferred here from other monasteries of the complex. The Church of the Transfiguration is painted by the hand of a disciple of the great Theophan of Crete, and near the church there is a holy spring.

It’s probably not worth leaving it until last, as we did. If you are going to explore the premises of the Great Meteor that are open to visitors, start there: you will have to walk a lot, and after climbing the rocks all day, it turned out to be very difficult for us to overcome such a staircase and thoughtfully study the frescoes.

Meteor observation decks

But when you arrive in Meteora, you may not want to go to all the monasteries, but choose the most interesting one for yourself. In my opinion, it is best to visit one of the free-standing ones, which offers stunning views of the surrounding area, as well as one of the larger ones, where you can see the rich paintings in the church and a collection of relics and manuscripts.

But it’s even more interesting to admire the monasteries from the outside. Along the road from monastery to monastery there are several observation platforms, and although it seems that you have only driven half a kilometer, the view from each is strikingly different. Try to stay on at least one of them, climb onto the rocks that stand out above the cliff and admire the panorama. How did several dozen people, without special equipment or training, manage to build such a miracle hundreds of years ago!

Food and souvenirs in Meteora

When coming here for the whole day, take care of snacks in advance: there are no tents with food or water near the monasteries themselves, so it is better to bring them with you. The nearest restaurants can be found either in the cities of Kalambaka and Kastraki at the foot of the cliffs (the descent by car will take 10-15 minutes), or 5 kilometers from the monasteries, following the “Restaurant” sign. By choosing the second option, as we did, you will wind your way along a rather steep serpentine road, but you will be able to eat in an excellent panoramic restaurant with national cuisine. In clear weather, it will definitely be better to choose the latter: you will be able to admire several monasteries, as well as the mountains surrounding the Meteora rocks.

Prices in the restaurant are normal for Greece: hot meat dishes cost about 5–8 €, one souvlaki kebab will cost 1.5 €, soft drinks from 2 to 5 €, bottled beer from 3.5 €. Lunch for three cost us 40 €.

If you want to buy memorable souvenirs from Meteora, visit the stalls with products in the parking lots of the monastery of St. Stephen and the Great Meteor, as well as the church shops of the monasteries. Here they sell icons, numerous figurines with images of saints, as well as ordinary crafts with types of monasteries: plates, glasses, ashtrays, etc. The average price for a souvenir is 3 €. Personally, I was interested in postcards with views of Meteor, but in the tents they were sold only in sets, and in the shop at the museum in the monastery of St. Stephen, one such card cost 1–1.5 €.

Finally

A trip to Meteora is one of the most vivid memories from our holiday in Greece. What we saw is impressive and makes us think about many things: about the power of faith, about the greatness of man and his ability to subjugate wild nature, about the incredible places that exist in the world.

Walking from one observation deck to another, I kept dreaming of sitting somewhere in the shade on a rock ledge and just admiring the views, without rushing anywhere. It’s definitely worth visiting such places, and ideally without a camera or video camera, so you can think not about a good shot, but about how beautiful everything is around!

The monasteries of Meteora (Meteora) are undoubtedly one of the most stunning sights that the rich country has to offer. The buildings, perched atop seemingly inaccessible sheer stone spiers, are scattered across the plain north of the town of Kalambaka; “meteora” means “stones in the air” and the Turkish (more precisely, Ottoman) word “kalabak” has approximately the same meaning. Immediately upon arriving at this place, your gaze is involuntarily drawn to the closest and tallest of these stone cylinders.

The closest one on the right hand, the monastery of St. Stephen, sits comfortably and securely on a powerful stand. Behind it stretches a disorderly jumble of turrets, spiers, cones and blunt or rounded cliffs. All these are the remains of river sediments: in prehistoric times, the river flowed into the sea that covered the plain of Thessaly 25 million years ago, and flowing water, assisted by winds, created these bizarre shapes.

The monasteries of Meteora (Meteora) are as mysterious as they are spectacular. One legend claims that Saint Athanasius, who founded the Megala Meteora (Great Meteoron) - the very first construction of the complex - flew up to these celestial steeps on the back of an eagle. A more prosaic legend tells of the dexterity with which the inhabitants of Staia, a medieval village on the site of present-day Kalambaka, climbed mountains - these dexterous villagers helped the monks establish high-mountain monasteries. The inaccessibility of the rocks, not to mention the difficulties of construction in such places, is simply impossible to exaggerate: the German guide for climbers labels almost all Meteora routes “for advanced”, but this means experienced athletes with modern equipment.

The first religious communities appeared here at the end of the 10th century, when hermits alone and in groups settled in natural caves, of which there are many in the rocks. In 1336, two Athonite monks came to the places they had already inhabited: Gregory and his disciple Athanasius. Gregory soon returned to, but left his student in Meteora, ordering him to found a monastery. What this Athanasius did, shortly after 1344, whether with supernatural help or otherwise is not truly known, but he managed to establish a very strict and ascetic rule (laws that the monks followed). Very soon, seekers of the heavenly world began to flow into the monastery, and among the newfound brethren there were such characters as John Urosh Palaeologus, from the family of Byzantine Caesars, who abdicated the Serbian throne in 1381 and became, after tonsure as a monk, the monk Joasaph.

The presence of persons of royal and royal blood, of course, contributed a lot to donations to the monasteries, which rapidly multiplied in number, occupying all the accessible rocks, as well as many of the almost completely inaccessible cliffs. Meteora monasticism reached the highest point of its splendor during the reign of the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (1520-1566), when up to 24 monasteries and monastic hermitages existed on the tops of the cliffs. The largest of them became very rich, and not only due to one-time offerings, but also thanks to the constant influx of income from estates donated to the monasteries or left as an inheritance in distant Wallachia (now) and Moldavia or in Thessaly itself. They retained this property of theirs, more or less intact, until the 18th century, when here, as elsewhere in the world, the decline of monasticism and monasteries began.

Over the past centuries, fierce disputes about power and primacy have arisen among monasteries more than once. But the monasteries of Meteora faded not because of internal strife, but for natural and economic reasons. Many buildings, especially small hermitages, gradually deteriorated and collapsed without proper care. The greatest monasteries became noticeably depopulated in the 19th century, when the newly created Greek state established itself south of Meteora - Thessaly itself did not belong to it at first - and monasticism lost its long-standing exclusive role as a symbol and mouthpiece of Greek nationalism and resistance to Turkish rule. In the 20th century, the crisis only intensified: monastic lands and incomes, already greatly reduced compared to the former glory days, were taken away by the state under the pretext of providing assistance to refugees: after the Greco-Turkish wars of 1919-1922, the Greeks of Asia Minor were forced to move to their “historical homeland” .

By the end of the 1950s, only four active monasteries remained, desperately fighting for their existence and among themselves: it was necessary to divide the monks who were fleeing here, that is, barely a dozen monks. A brilliant chronicle of this era entitled “Rumeli” was compiled by Patrick Leigh Fermor. Then, however, Meteora, if not back on its feet, then slightly revived: the brethren increased in number due to the influx of young people seeking intellectual sobriety and the severity of traditional piety. But this respite turned into a mockery of fate: in the 1970s, the tourism industry reached Meteora. As a result, the four accessible monasteries, which managed to firmly establish themselves on the world map, thanks in part to cinema, including the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only, turned into exhibition windows for displaying historical antiquities. And only two monasteries on the eastern side - Holy Trinity and St. Stephen -, as in the old days, pursue primarily religious goals.

Kalambaka town and Kastraki village

It will take a whole day to explore Meteora, which means you will have to stay at least one night in Kalambaka or, preferably, in Kastraki, 2 kilometers to the northeast: there is a better atmosphere and the rocks are very close. You can also enjoy walking along the stone pavements of the ancient upper part of the village. Accommodation in Kastraki is suitable for those who don't want to waste money without getting quality in return, and the two village campsites are among the best in the area.

• Kalambaka town in Greece

Kalambaka cannot boast of any special attractiveness - except for its proximity to the rocks. The town is being improved, for example, there is a fountain in every square, but there are irreparable losses: during the Second World War, the Germans burned Kalambaka, and only a few pre-war buildings survived. True, among them is the ancient Metropolitan Cathedral, consecrated in honor of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary - Kimisis tis Teotoku (daily 8:00-13:00 and 16:00-18:00; 2 €) - this is a couple of blocks up the hill from the now new active cathedral, at the very top of the village.

The church on the site of the ancient Temple of Apollo appeared in the 6th century, and in its improperly built walls one can see drums, crowns of columns and other fragments of ancient architecture, “recycled” by Christian architects. The inside of the vault is lined with wood, which is very unusual, but the interior volume of the middle nave is dominated by a large double pulpit made of marble - something unheard of for a Greek church; the central span itself is furnished with marble columns. Preserved - best in the narthex - Byzantine frescoes of the 13th and 14th centuries are dedicated to the miracles that Christ performed during His earthly ministry (“Healing of the paralytic”, “Storm on the Sea of ​​Galilee”, “Resurrection of Lazarus”, “Marriage in Cana of Galilee” "), although there is a very convincing depiction of hellish torment on the southern wall.

• Arrival, accommodation and meals in Kalambaka

The railway station is located on the ring road on the southern edge of the village. Buses entering Kalambaka stop at the central plateau of Dimarhiu, but the KTEL bus station is actually a little lower, downhill, opposite the railway station. There is no information desk for tourists in Kalambaka, so look for local information in a bookstore selling maps, guidebooks in foreign languages, newspapers and magazines - this is on the western side of the same square, on the corner of Ioanninon and Patriarhu Dimitriou. Those arriving by bus and train are usually greeted by barkers promising a good overnight stay. It’s probably better to avoid these figures and listen to our advice - there are too many complaints about bad rooms and the tricks of clever owners when making payments.

Don't expect much from the faceless hotels lining the main street either: they are filled with tourists from excursion buses, and the double-glazed rooms in the rooms do not protect against street noise. A good option for a tighter wallet is the inexpensive but welcoming Meteora Hotel on Plutarchou 13, a quiet side street on your right hand if you suddenly decide to walk from Kalambaka to Kastraki to reach the foot of the cliffs. There's a variety of air-conditioned and heated rooms to choose from, plus plenty of parking, breakfasts benefit from extras like homemade biscuits and cheeses, and hosts Nikos and Kostas Gekas are a wealth of useful information about the area.

In the upper and more village-like part of the town, about 700 meters from both main squares, near the Metropolis and the starting (also ending) point of the path to the Holy Trinity Monastery, there are two more standing shelters. On Kanari 5 is the Alsos House, which is richer in amenities. On the top floor there are rooms for two and three and suites for families and a well-equipped communal kitchen. The owner's name is Janis Karakandas and he speaks good English. Koka Roka Rooms offers rooms both with and without bathtubs, in short, the usual haven for tourists with backpacks. Downstairs they serve food from the grill (cheap and good food from €10), and the service, while slow, can be cheerful, and there is internet access.

Mid-range hotels include the Odyssion at the end of the highway that runs through the town, which is closer to Kastraki. The hotel is quiet because it is set back from the road. The rooms were mostly renovated in 2004, the floors are parquet or tiles, the bathrooms have a shower or bath. Breakfast is served in the new bright salon, there are also 6 multi-room suites in Kastraki, Archontiko Mesohori, but the archaeologists did not allow the owners to build a swimming pool and plant a garden behind the building. If you have your own transport, head east of the city to the family-run Pension Arsenis, which is worth doing for the bucolic atmosphere, high standard rooms and good restaurant there.

The food situation is the same as with hotels: there are plenty of average and below-average establishments, and there is plenty of public. The exception is Skaros, located 150 meters from the Divani Hotel on the eastern outskirts of the city (open all year round, if there is a large group, then in advance). Rarely does a tourist reach this point, but the locals know and appreciate excellent lamb kebab at a reasonable price, chops, and home-grown vegetables. In the center, on Platja Dimarhiu, Panellinion can be quite intimidating with its noisy decoration “in a rural spirit” and high prices, but the high price is justified by the high quality of products, wonderful black bread, fried new potatoes and generally good cuisine, so the establishment does not complain about the lack of customers .

• Kastraki village in Greece

Kastraki from Kalambaka is a 20-minute walk along a traffic-filled and not very safe highway. The construction of a real walking trail starting at the old Metropolitan Cathedral has been delayed. During the season (May 15-September 15), buses run regularly between Kalambaka and Kastraki all day long. Arriving at the village from its lower edge, you will pass by the first of two local campsites - Camping Vrachos, where during the season the local equipment supplier also offers visitors sports adventures in the surrounding area. The second campsite - Camping Boufidhis-The Cave (May-October) operates on the upper edge of the road passing through the entire village, is a little more cluttered, but there is so much wonderful grass there (if the year is not dry), and the tents are in the shade, not to mention already about the luxurious location: on the far edge of the village and, therefore, closer to the rocks: the monasteries of St. Nicholas Anapavsas and Rusanou literally soar in height. Both campsites, as well as others on the roads to Trikala and , have swimming pools.

In the village there are dozens of rooms for rent, often of a very high standard, and five hotels. It is important to choose a place away from the main highway towards the monasteries - buses rattle along the highway every now and then all day long (and motorcycles and scooters rattle all night). Doupiani House has this quality, which is easy to find by signs generously placed along the highway, starting from the Cave campsite. The air-conditioned rooms have superb views, especially from the front, and owners Thanassis and Toula serve breakfast in the best hotel garden in Kastraki and can advise on the best places to start a hike or climb. But you need to book a room throughout the year - the demand for the hotel is such that a luxurious extension was built to the current building.

Further down the mountain and again at a decent distance from the highway are Ziogas Rooms, where the rooms are more spacious and have balconies, almost all of them have wonderful views, and in winter they turn on the heating. On the lower floor there is a large salon: breakfast is served in the morning, and a tavern is open there during the day. Near the road, but in a quiet place, you will find the friendly Tsikelli Hotel - rooms in pink and white, has its own parking lot and a cafe in the park. Opposite the extension to Doupiani House and Odysseon is the luxurious by Kastraki standards, built in 2007, with wooden floors Pyrgos Adrachti at the top of the old block, you have to climb, but there is a sufficiently large car park. Nearby is the Guest-house Sotiriou with five rooms, three of which have fireplaces, in a restored building from 1845.

Among a good dozen restaurants (predominantly psystarias), the best of the more or less universal establishments is probably Paradhisos on the road through the entire village: for a kebab with red bean salad and beer on a crowded terrace with an excellent view, they are unlikely to charge very much. Bakalarakia is good for a summer evening: the atmosphere, the terrace behind the church and below the central platia, this little kutuki does not disappear in winter: locals love it for its grilled dishes, salads, bacalaros and homemade wine. But if you have your own transport, do not be lazy and go - there are many signs - to Neromylos, which is on the far edge of the village of Dyava, 4 kilometers to the southwest. High ceilings, a fireplace, under the current owner’s grandfather, all this was a water mill: in the summer you will sit on the terrace next to the tanks in which trout splash. In addition to trout, there is also plenty of other things: meat and galotiri, vegetarian mezedes, and large portions are convenient to wash down with large sips of draft wine (it is light).

Visit to the monasteries of Meteora

All six main monasteries of Meteora are open to the public, but at different times. If you want to complete all the monasteries in a day, start your tour early to see the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, Varlaam and Megala Meteor before 13:00, leaving the monastery of Rousanou, Holy Trinity and St. Stephen for the afternoon. The highway from Kastraki to the monastery of St. Stephen is almost 10 kilometers, and the road narrows every now and then, and the cars do not slow down. If you are moving on foot, you better follow our advice; we tried to protect you as much as possible from asphalt with bitumen - trails and dirt roads will save you from this scourge. St. Stephen's Monastery is located in a cul-de-sac, whether you arrive on the highway or up the mountain trails; from the sign to Kalambaka on the highway, 6 kilometers are not at all in a straight line, almost reaching the Holy Trinity Monastery.

In season, there are buses from Kalambaka to Metalu Meteoru/Varlaam monasteries during the day (the 9:00 and 13:00 buses are more reliable), and even if you only travel part of the way by bus, you can spend more time sightseeing rather than traveling to them. You may need a map of the area, especially if you want to get off the beaten track. In Kalambaka they sell all sorts of nonsense, but at the newspaper and book point on the central platform two goods are worth the money asked for them: Panoramic Map with Geoiogy, jointly developed by the Swiss publishing house Karto Atelier and the Greek company Trekking Hellas: it’s like The view is from a bird's eye view, but quite accurate and suitable for following the main routes.

The booklet, produced by Road Editions, with Greek-only text (by Andonis Kaloiirou) and a topographical map on the back cover, is excellent and many will buy the booklet for the map alone. Before you set off, it's a good idea to stock up on food and drink for the day. Along the entire tourist route there are no more than a couple of stalls selling drinks and fruits - near the monasteries of Varlaam and Megala Meteora. Finally, don't forget to bring money: each monastery charges an entrance fee - now 2 €, and even students do not have discounts. There are strict requirements for clothing: women only wear skirts (not trousers), men wear long trousers (not shorts), and shoulders, regardless of gender, must be covered.

Guests are often provided with skirts or robes that cover everything that is required, but it is better not to hope for this. Finally, remember that any photography or video filming in the monasteries is strictly prohibited. In fact, it is better to come to Meteora out of season, when the trees have shed their leaves and the stone towers are covered with snow. In the middle of summer, commercialization and crowds (and mountains of garbage on the roads) can be depressing, all this fuss is very out of place next to an untouched, wild, romantic, spiritual valley. At such times, it is probably preferable to head to less visited monasteries, such as Ipapandi or Holy Trinity.

Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas

North of Kastraki, a winding road squeezes between the huge rocks of Aion Pneuma and Dupyani - the second is named after the barely visible hermitage chapel, one of the earliest monasteries here. To avoid walking along the highway (with traffic), go to the main square of the village and go out onto the street that starts at the northwest corner of the platia - it will then turn into a path. This trail passes directly under the amusing cave-chapel of Agios Yeoryos Mandilas - you can recognize this depression at the very bottom of the monolithic rock of Aion Pneuma by seeing the colored spots. These are votive offerings - the so-called mandillas (shawls, scarves, etc.) - that's why this St. George's shrine is designated by the epithet mandylas: once a year on April 23, a hundred of the most dexterous local youths (and about the same number of young people from all over Greece) climb or they climb a rope to the top of a cliff and take away the scarves that have accumulated over the year - for good luck.

The ceremony is always shown on TV, but not always everything goes completely smoothly: the climb to the rock is unusually difficult, many do not receive the blessing of St. George and are literally cast down - if not into the abyss, then from a considerable height. The chosen path will lead you in 20 minutes to the bottom step of a kind of flight of stairs. Climb the steps to reach the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Anapavsas (Monday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 9:00-15:30; access ends at 15:00; November-March). In the 1980s, the monastery was restored; pay attention to the excellent frescoes of the early 16th century in the katholikon (the main church of the monastery) - they were painted by the Cretan painter Theophanes. The tiny Catholicon faces, contrary to the canons, almost exactly to the north, and not to the east - we had to take into account the configuration of the rock.

On the eastern wall of the naos, the shocked student not only prostrates himself, but, it seems, makes a somersault over his head - such an unusual solution to the canonical “Transfiguration” plot is also explained by the limited space (and the ingenuity of the icon painter). In the fresco “The Denial of Peter” on the gate arch, the title character warms his hands over the fire in the predawn twilight. On the western wall of the narthex (narthex) there is a stylite (a hermit living on a pillar), in a wasteland inhabited by wild animals, and a servant collects provisions in a basket to then bring it upstairs - such scenes could very well have taken place here or nearby when the fresco was new.

But the desert fathers are rushing to the burial of the preacher Ephraim the Syrian (Saint Aphrem the Syrian): some ride on wild animals, others - the crippled or infirm - are carried on stretchers, some are carried on their shoulders and backs. In addition to the painting of Theophanes, there are also later images, distinguished by their simplicity: Adam naming the beasts - among which is written the basilisk - the legendary lizard-like creature that killed with its breath or gaze. Near the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, on the tip of a needle-shaped stone spire, the remains of a destroyed structure can be seen - these are the ruins of the walls of the monastery of St. Moni, abandoned after the earthquake of 1858.

Behind the ruins of the monastery of St. Moni, 250 meters from the parking lot and steps of the entrance staircase of the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, a paved path, partially shaded, branches off from the highway (signposts only to the monastery of St. Varlaam). After a 15-minute walk uphill, this path will lead you to an unmarked T-shaped fork: turning right, in 10 minutes you will be at the monastery of St. Varlaam, and turning left, in the same 10 minutes, but the climb will be steeper, you will reach Megala Meteora monastery. There is no other road between the monasteries (except for the cluttered access roads to both). If you first choose the Megala Meteora monastery, then to get to the monastery of St. Varlaam, you will have to go down to the fork and then go up to the second monastery.

Megala Meteora Monastery (another name is the Great Meteor or Transfiguration Monastery; summer Monday and Wednesday-Sunday 9:00-17:00; winter Monday and Wednesday-Sunday 9:00-46:00) - the most majestic and highest of all the monasteries : It is built on the rock Platis Litos (Wide Stone) at an altitude of 615 meters above sea level. He enjoyed great privileges, and for many centuries dominated the area, and in an 18th-century engraving (on display in the museum) he is depicted towering above the others. How Afanasy got to this rock remains a mystery.

The Catholicon of the monastery, consecrated in honor of the Transfiguration (Metamorphosis), is the most magnificent in Meteora, a beautiful church in plan: a cross inscribed in a square, columns and beams support a kind of floating dome with the image of Christ Pantocrator in Glory written on it. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the temple was expanded, so that the original church, built in 1383 by the monk Joasaph, the former king, now merely serves as a “hieron” (sanctuary) behind an intricately carved temblon (“templon” - an altar barrier with an iconostasis). The frescoes, however, are relatively late (mid-16th century) and are inferior to the murals of other monasteries in artistic significance. The narthex (narthex) is painted almost exclusively with eerie and sad scenes of martyrdom.

Monastic chambers and other premises of the monastery occupy a vast vaulted massif of several buildings. In the “kellari” (basement storage) there is an exhibition of agricultural implements and peasant utensils. The refectory - under the dome and vaulted ceilings - is still furnished as if it served its original purpose: on the tables are traditional silver and pewter dishes for monastic meals. But now there is a museum here, on display are crosses with magnificent wood carvings and rare icons. You can look into the ancient kitchen adjacent to the refectory; it is also under the dome, but covered in soot: bread was baked in the oven, and stew was cooked on the fireplace.

Monastery of St. Varlaam

Monastery of St. Varlaam or All Saints (summer Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Sunday 9:00-14:00; winter Monday-Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 9:00-15:00) - one of the oldest monasteries, standing on the site of a hermitage. , founded by Saint Barlaam - this figure played a key role in the history of Meteora shortly after the arrival of Athanasius in Meteora. The current building was founded by two Apsaras brothers from Ioannina in 1540-1544 and is considered one of the most beautiful in the valley. The Catholicon of the monastery, dedicated to All Saints (Aion Pandon), is small but brilliant: it is supported by painted beams, and the walls and pillars are completely covered with frescoes.

The dominant theme is not only desert living, which is appropriate in Meteora, but also martyrdom. The colorful “Last and Last Judgment” (1566) is very convincing: the gaping mouth of Leviathan devours the damned. But above the icons and murals reigns the majestic “Pantocrator” (Lord Pantocrator; 1544) on the inner of the two domes, and on the outer dome the magnificent “Ascension” is written. In the refectory there is a museum with an exhibition of icons, fabrics, decorated furniture and other church and household utensils. In another place they show a barrel in which the monks kept drinking water.

In the monastery of St. Varlaam, a lifting tower has been preserved: a not entirely safe receiving platform and a dubious, now unused, mechanism with a winch (later it was replaced by an electric winch), although now, as in the old days, ropes and a “basket” are in use. Until the 1920s, almost all the monasteries of Meteora could not be reached except through a wicker “net”, which was lifted up using a gate and a rope, or via an attached ladder that was then retracted, which was also hardly safe. Patrick Leigh Fermor tells a parable about one abbot who, being asked how often a rope was changed, answered: “When the old one breaks.”

The Bishop of Trikalsky ordered to break through the steps by which one can now climb to all the monasteries, clearly out of concern for his reputation, which, undoubtedly, could suffer if something happened to some careless stranger. So now ropes and baskets are used only for delivering supplies and building materials to the top, especially since there are also trailers of a cable car thrown over the abysses, which begins in the nearby car park.

Rusanu Monastery

To walk from the monastery of St. Varlaam to the monastery of Rusanou, it is recommended to descend from Varlaam along the access road to this monastery, about 150 meters, where this path connects with the access road to the Megala Meteora monastery. At the fence, get off the road and, without losing sight of the marks (spots of blue paint), choose from the paths those on which you feel a more or less decent path under your feet. This way you will pass by (and a little higher) several small rounded rocks, this is the so-called Plakes Kelaraka, to emerge immediately above a sharp bend in the road to the bottom of the ravine, where even in July you still come across puddles. Cross the stream bed and climb up the mountain to the far side of the ravine, and then take a right, towards the trees, and, squeezing through the woods, emerge, after about 50 meters, onto another path.

You will emerge onto the access road to the Rusan monastery - from the moment you parted with the monastery of St. Varlaam, 35 minutes will pass, and you will only have to overcome the last twenty meters of the road, severely disfigured by heaps of stone and debris. There is a path with many signs leading up to the 16th-century monastery; it is known not only as Rusanu (summer daily 9:00-18:00; winter Monday, Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday 9:00-14:00), but also as the Monastery of St. Barbara . You can get to the monastery in a different way, by going off the road onto the path and making a higher circle, but in any case, the last part of the path is on a shaky bridge thrown to the entrance to the monastery from a nearby cliff.

The location of the monastery puts Rusana out of the ordinary even in comparison with other monasteries of Meteora: all its walls turn into steep cliff edges with almost no gap. The narthex (narthex) of the main church of the monastery was painted in the 17th century with terrible scenes of various martyrdoms and executions, and the only thing you can catch your breath on, tired of contemplating these scenes, is a lion licking the feet of Daniel, thrown into a prison (to the left of the window). In the opposite corner, two not so friendly lions are devouring Saint Ignatius the God-Bearer. The Apocalypse is painted colorfully and with extraordinary vividness on the eastern wall (however, the Last Judgment is usually written on the western wall).

If you need to return from the Rusanou monastery directly to Kastraki, there is a wonderful trail that greatly shortens the path. Get out on the lower road to the monastery and walk downhill for about thirteen minutes so that, having passed the first sharp bend in the track, you come to a sign on the side of the road warning about the next sharp turn - there will also be something like a transformer substation with a support. Cross the path that goes sharply down and to the south, along the flow of the Paleokranjes stream, and follow it to a small pumping station on the above-described rural road Kastraki - the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas. The journey will take about twenty minutes and you will save almost the same amount compared to the highway route.

Monastery of the Holy Trinity

From the bottom point of the lower approach path to the Rusan monastery, you can descend for about seven minutes until the first bend, then go to the path indicated by a sign to the Holy Trinity Monastery. After about 10 minutes of steep ascent, you will reach a ridge, behind which the uneven rocky canyon of Huni opens up - the Holy Trinity Monastery. There is no direct road from here, so turn left and follow the marks on the rocks - these are spots of red paint - you will climb (not so steeply any more) to a point where a bypass road after 600 meters will lead to your goal - the proposed route does not save much time on compared to a half-hour walk from the Rusanu monastery along the road, but much more pleasant. The final stage of the journey from the car park at the Holy Trinity Monastery (daily except Thursday: summer 9:00-17:00; winter 9:00-12:30 and 15:00-17:00) consists of 130 steps carved into a hole cut through the rock tunnel. You will emerge into a bright and airy manor house, which was renovated in the 1980s and 1990s.

Inside you will see small exhibitions of yarn, fabrics and kitchen and rural items, but instead of explanatory signs everywhere there are maxims from the 13th chapter of the Apostle Paul’s First Epistle to the Corinthians: “Love endures long,” “love is not provoked,” and so on. The frescoes in the Catholicon have been completely cleared and restored by restorers to their original shine, so you will not regret the time spent visiting the monastery. On the southwestern wall near the “Assumption” is written “The Betrayal of Judas,” but the thirty pieces of silver are not depicted by paint, but by real coins suspended from the image. Like other churches of Meteora, this one seems to have been built in two stages - judging by the two domes, and on both - the “Pantocrator” (the one above the temblon is very good), as well as two sets of evangelists on sails, under the dome . On the southern arch is painted a rare image of the beardless Christ Emmanuel, who is carried by four cherubs.

Relatively few buses with excursionists stop at the monastery, and life in the monastery remains monastic; now there are only four monks in the monastery, who maintain the monastery in a presentable form. Among them is Elder John, who has lived here since 1975 and could tell you how the Mother of God healed him of blindness in one eye (however, the monk’s second eye was still missing). Although the Holy Trinity Monastery is perched above a deep ravine, and the garden at its rear ends in a real cliff, there is a clearly visible and signposted path that starts at the lowest of the steps leading up to the monastery and goes straight to the upper part of Kalambaka. The descent will take you 45 minutes, and there is no need to walk for long along the ring road: the trail is partly paved and is generally in decent condition in any weather.

Monastery of St. Stephen

To the last and easternmost monastery of St. Stephen (Tuesday-Sunday: summer 9:00-14:00 and 15:30-18:00; winter 9:00-13:00 and 15:00-17:00) about 15 minutes walking from the Holy Trinity Monastery: you walk along the road (there is no path cutting off the corner), and around the bend suddenly the monastery of St. Stephen you need appears. This monastery is also active and is now for women: the nuns will try to sell you some trinkets.

The monastery suffered greatly from bombing in World War II and communist raids during the civil war. This monastery is the first on the list of attractions that you can skip if you don’t have enough time. It is, of course, impossible not to say that in the 15th century refectory there is a fresco painting of the Virgin Mary on the apse, and in the museum, a little further away, there is an excellent “Epitafios” - a tombstone embroidered with gold. The old path from St. Stephen's Monastery to Kalambaka is unused and unsafe: return to the Holy Trinity Monastery and descend along the route described above.

• Other routes Meteora

After touring the monasteries, many visitors - especially in the off-season - are tempted to stay an extra day for the ambience that seems to be from another universe. Therefore, it makes sense to report on other places hidden among the rocks that promise complete solitude, and suggest how to get to them. More accessible than many others is the hike to the Holy Spirit Cave Church of Aion Pneuma. Starting from the Kastraki platia, take the path marked with boulders, which is higher and to the north of the square, and move northeast to the last house on this side of the ravine that divides the village in half. Behind this house you will see a clear, although not marked, path leading into the desert. After the trail passes through abandoned gardens and walnut groves, bushes and cobblestones left by rockfalls begin, and on your left hand you will see a stone wall - this is the Aion Pneuma monolith.

The Rusanu Monastery comes into view, and the path bends sharply and begins to descend into a ravine - or better yet, into a cleft in the rock. After about 35 minutes you will reach a flat platform hanging from a monolithic rock in both directions: to the right (to the west) on the layered surface of the rock the mouth of the cave temple of Aion Pneuma is blackened. A hermit once lived in the cave, and inside - in addition to whitewash and modern icons - you will see a coffin (sarcophagus) intended for his (disappeared) remains, which is also carved from stone. To the left of the entrance to the church is a cistern for rainwater, which the hermit drank. Connoisseurs and connoisseurs can spend a few minutes climbing to the top of the rock, where the bell tower is located and where excellent views open up.

If you have the strength and some skills, you can go to the outskirts of Kastraki to climb to the cave church of Agia Apostoli (Holy Apostles) - in all of Meteora there is no sacred monument at a higher altitude: this one is located on the top of a rock rising 630 meters. Behind the conspicuous village cemetery begins a noticeable path uphill, which in 15 minutes will lead you to the even more conspicuous stone “finger” of Adrahti, from which you will need a bit of composure: you will need to find a difficult-to-see continuation of the path over the steep edge of the ravine on the right, but hold on left side. For about five minutes you will move with difficulty on all fours, but then the real trail begins. At the very end there is the most risky moment: you will have to climb a ladder to the top of the cliff. This walk is not for those with a fear of heights.

Those seeking solitude can head to the outskirts to the cave church of Agios Andonyos (St. Anthony). On the south-eastern outskirts of Kastraki, opposite the Taverna To Harama tavern, turn onto a narrow road signposted in English "Old Habitation of Kastraki". After driving or walking along this path for a short time, bear right onto a single lane cement road which soon turns into a dirt road leading to a modern but beautiful chapel built in the traditional style. You can also get here by road starting at the top of old Kastraki).

In the east and a little higher, wedged into the front surface of the cliff, the restored St. Nicholas Monastery of Aiiu Nikolaou Bandovas (visitors are not allowed) is subordinate to the Holy Trinity Monastery and currently operates as a desert monastery. But you were walking (try to guess the sunset) for the cave church of Ayios Andonyos that suddenly appeared before your eyes, as if erupting from the Pixari rock (after restoration in 2005-2006, it was reopened to visitors). Next to it you will see many rickety wooden structures like stands: they are pushed into natural recesses in the rock, from which half-rotten ladders hang.

These tiny caves were inhabited not just by those who labored in the desert, but by the most severe ascetics, and although now only mountain pigeons live in the former ascetics (that is, the dwellings of ascetics; the Greek name is ascetics), they were inhabited for a very good part of the 20th century , and until the 1960s, on the day of remembrance of the patron saint of hermits, a monk in the rank of priest climbed into the cave every year and served the liturgy. Here, in a deserted wild wasteland, without souvenir shops, polyglot guides and excursion buses, aspirations for a “contemplative life” are found, which is how the permanent inhabitants of Meteora live.

Church of Timiou Stavrou in Greece

If you have your own transport, it is worth driving 42 kilometers west of Kalambaka, to the “flaming” medieval church of Timiu Stavrou (Honorous Cross), standing between the villages of Krania (on some maps: Kraneia) and Dulyana. The church itself, although built in the 18th century, looks older, and not because of its dilapidation, but because it appeared as a play on a capricious chance: the architects decided to combine the features of two models spotted in Romania and Russia. What they came up with was neither more nor less, but a dozen tower-shaped domes - the height is noticeably greater than the diameter - three above the nave, one above each of the three apses and six at the ends of the triple transept.

The outside of the church has been very well renovated, which was not hindered by either hasty post-war restoration (the Germans burned the church in 1943 in response to the partisan movement that had developed in the surrounding area) or construction using heavy equipment nearby. The terrace, equipped with a wooden table (and a water tap nearby), is a great place to have a picnic. And if you manage to ask permission to view it (the church is usually closed), you will see in the apse a syntrono - a stone bench that served as the bishop’s throne and survived the fire of 1943.

To get to the church, drive north from Kalambaka and after 10 kilometers do not take the Ioannina motorway, but turn left onto the narrower road to Murgani, the fork is colored with many direction signs to the highland villages. Persistently climb the mountain and, having crossed the spur of Mount Tringia, begin a steep descent into a densely forested valley at the headwaters of the Aspropotamos River: the scenery is considered one of the most beautiful in Pindus. From the unmarked tavern at the turn to Doliana, continue moving 5 kilometers south, to the bridge and the road to the left with a sign in Greek: “Pros Ieran Monin Timiou Stavrou Doulianon.”

This path after 700 meters will lead you to the church, located at 1150 meters above sea level. In the summer, almost every day a bus runs from Trikala to the village of Krania, closest to the church, stopping at the village platform, where the hotel and the Aspropotamos tavern are open (late June-August). From Crania, or directly from the church, you can drive another 7 kilometers to the Pyrgos Mantania Hotel or 17 kilometers to Tria Potamia, and from there, heading east and passing through Pertouli and Pyli, you can complete the loop and return to Trikala.

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There are many natural beauties in Greece that are impressive just by looking at them. But there are also those that combine many aspects. For example, in Thessaly, on a ridge of picturesque rocks and stone pillars, the Meteora monasteries rise – ancient centers of Orthodox culture. This is a unique creation of the forces of nature and man, because the temples literally merged with the rocks into a single whole. The monasteries are located on peaks, which range from 300 to 600 meters above sea level. At first glance, they seem to hang over the mountains: even the expression “meteora” in Greek means “floating in the air.” There are many more interesting things that can be told about this place, which is what we will do in today’s article.

The history of the appearance of the Meteora monasteries

As already noted, the temples are built on the tops of rocks, so let’s start the story with the history of the natural attraction. The mountains of Thessaly were formed 60 million years before our days and were a rocky seabed. Later, the water left and a plain was formed, and the stones, under the influence of water, wind and temperature fluctuations, turned into huge pillars towering hundreds of meters above the ground. These rocks subsequently became a safe haven for the monastery monasteries.

The first hermits

According to legend, hermits appeared in these places before the 10th century. They were located so high not only because of the desire for privacy, but also for protection from attacks by Turks, crusaders, Vikings, etc.

In those days, hermits climbed rocks along ledges, and only later did they begin to use rope ladders and timber scaffolding. For living, they set up “cells” in caves and crevices, and set aside special areas for prayer purposes. The monks led their spiritual life together: they communicated together, prayed, and studied religious texts. But to perform the sacraments they had to go down to the foot of the rocks, where the Church of the Archangels was located in the city of Stagi ( later the Virgin Mary).

Researchers call Barnabas the first inhabitant of Meteor, in 950-970. who founded the monastery of the Holy Spirit here. The second monastery, called Preobrazhensky, was built in the rocks by the Cretan monk Andronikos. This happened in 1020. And more than 100 years later, in 1160, the monastery of Stagi (Dupiani) appeared in Meteora, which became the starting point in the construction of a full-fledged “monastic country” on the rocks.

Formation of monasteries

For several centuries nothing disturbed the measured life of the hermits, but in the 14th century, raids by foreign invaders became more frequent and the flow of ascetics to these lands increased sharply. Among them, the monk Athanasius arrived here, expelled from Athos by the invasion of corsairs. He lived on the pillar of Stagi for about 10 years before he decided to begin implementing an idea that had long been tormented by him - the founding of a monastic monastery in Meteora, similar to the Temples of Athos.

Finally, in 1334, he gathered a group of 14 people and began climbing the sheer rock of Platis Litos, 613 meters above sea level! Here the monks founded the first monastery of the Transfiguration, also known as the Great Meteor. Athanasius laid down the rules of monastic life, and even the name of the monastery “Meteora” is attributed to his authorship. Subsequently, other brothers followed the example of the brave monks and new monasteries were founded on neighboring pillars. This is how the famous Meteora monasteries appeared in Greece.

The monastic state reached its peak in the 16th century. Thanks to the protection of steep cliffs, people were completely safe here, and the monastic community only grew and strengthened. In addition, numerous rulers generously donated gifts to the temples. As a result, from its founding to its heyday, 24 independent monasteries settled on the stone pillars.

But gradually the grandeur of the complex begins to fade, and there are fewer and fewer monasteries. The 20th century was a turning point: during World War II, the churches were plundered by German and Italian invaders, and a little later the Civil War had a detrimental effect on them. However, in the post-war years, restoration of the historical heritage began in Greece and the monasteries received a “second life”.

Active monasteries of Meteora

Today, the monastery complex of Meteora, located on the rocks, is not only Orthodox Greece, but also a tourist destination.

Although out of 24 monasteries only 6 remain, pilgrims come here, and ordinary travelers are happy to see ancient temples “hung in the air.” Moreover, during the restoration, safe and relatively easy roads were built to the monasteries. But before these stone steps appeared, the monks used rope ladders or special nets with a cable to climb, with the help of which they dragged loads and sometimes people up.

So, today the following Meteora monasteries have survived and are operating in Greece:

• Transfiguration Cathedral;
• Church of the SaintNikolai Anapavsas;
• Monastery of Varlaam (All Saints);
• Monastery of the Holy Trinity(or Meteora Agia Triad);
• Cathedral of Rusanu or Monastery of St. Barbara;

We invite you to get to know the modern monastic country a little closer.

Read also: Rusanu - monastery of St. Barbara

The monastery of Megala Meteora, also known as the Great Meteor and the Transfiguration Monastery, is located on the highest of the rocks. It was built by the monk Athanasius of Meteora, considered the founder of the entire community. Near the entrance to the monastery there is the monastery of St. Athanasius, in which he lived: it is a small building founded right in the cave. And a little further from the monastery there is a chapel and a crypt.

Built in 1388, the Transfiguration Cathedral, in the likeness of the Athos temples, has a cruciform shape. The side extension of the temple, which stores the burials of the founders of the monastery, rests on four columns. All of them, as well as the walls of the cathedral and the ceiling, are covered with frescoes. The monastery has preserved many ancient icons and donated jewelry. And the main artifacts of the monastery are:

• Greek manuscript of 861;
• icon of the Mother of God;
• partsImperial Golden Bull;
• shroud of the 14th century;
• a number of icons from the 16th century.

To approach the temple, stone steps were cut at the beginning of the 20th century, but cables and netting are sometimes still used to transport food.

In the 14th century, the hermit Varlaam climbed a stone pillar, where he founded several cells and a modest church in the name of the Three Saints. The monk lived alone, so after his death the buildings were abandoned for a long time. Only in 1518, the monk brothers Nektary and Theophanes, who had previously lived on the Great Meteor, decided to climb the rock to restore the temple of Varlaam. But later they decided to stay in the local monastery forever. New people came to them, so that soon the number of monks on the rock increased to 30. Then it was decided to build a more spacious cathedral.

So in 1542 the Church of All Saints was built. This is a one-nave basilica with two domes, similar in architectural plan to the Athos monasteries. In the 1550s, the walls of the temple were painted by the famous painter Franco Catelano, and in 1627 the fresco paintings were supplemented by Ephraim the Syrian, a famous member of the monastery who wrote many church works.

Among the riches of the monastery, we note the Gospel of Constantine the Bogoyarodny, post-Byzantine icons, rare manuscripts, golden shrouds, hand-carved wooden crosses.

Monastery of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity)

Built in the 15th century, the monastery of Agia Triada is built on perhaps the most picturesque pillar: a river flows at its foot, and a forested ridge rises above the cliff. The founder of the monastery is not known for certain, but the name of the monk Dometius is most often mentioned.

There are 140 steps from the path starting at the foot of the mountain to the temple. As you climb, you can see the small church of St. John the Baptist, built into the rock. In 1682, its walls were painted by the monk Nicodemus. The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity itself is located in the northwestern part of the monastery. It is made in the Byzantine style, with a cruciform base, two columns and a dome. In 1741, the temple was painted with frescoes by two clergy brothers: Anatoly and Nicodemus.

The pearl of the church is considered to be the Venetian Gospel, decorated in silver. Also in the temple there is a gilded iconostasis with images of Christ and the Mother of God.

Monastery of Rusanu or St. Barbara

Data about the founder of the monastery on the rock differ: some sources name Rusanos, others name the monks Nicodemus and Benedict. Be that as it may, the only thing known for certain is that the modern monastery was founded in 1545. With the permission of the Metropolitan of Larisa and Abbot Megal Meteor, the brothers Joasaph and Maxim built a spacious temple here on the site of an old dilapidated church. It is also made in the Byzantine style, and the walls are decorated with frescoes of the 16th century.

Two bridges are connected to the monastery, which facilitates the approach to the temple. During the battles with the Turkish invaders, the monastery was a refuge for residents from the surrounding villages. However, the rock was still easy to conquer, so much of the monastery’s value was stolen. The surviving relics are now preserved by the walls of the Great Meteor.

In the middle of the 20th century, the monastery was empty, but Elder Eusevia, from the village of Kastraki in Greece, single-handedly guarded the temple building. After her death, the monastery was officially closed, but already in the 1980s restoration work was carried out here. After reconstruction, the monastery received a second name in honor of St. Barbara and turned into a convent.

There is also a convent dedicated to St. Stephen in Meteora. This rich monastery, founded at the end of the 14th century, is located on a picturesque rock, at the foot of which lies the city of Kalambaka. The approach here is the most convenient: an 8-meter pedestrian bridge leads to the church.

The Church of St. Stephen has a difficult fate. In 1545 it was declared stauropegal and removed from the diocese of Stagi. But the charity of the rulers of Romania allowed the monastery to exist comfortably. During the Ottoman dictatorship, the monks founded a school in Kalambaka and were engaged in educational activities. And only at the very end of the 18th century, the monastery’s catholicon, the Church of St. Harlampius, was erected here. By 1960, the monastery was almost completely empty, but already in 1961 it was transformed into a convent, in which status it still operates to this day.

The monastery of St. Stephen is rich in valuable relics: the monastery is famous for its ancient icons, and the archival fund is famous for the presence of a manuscript of the Divine Liturgy dated 1404.

Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas

It is believed that the monastery was founded in the 12th century by Nikanor Anapavsas, although the epithet Anapavsas ( calming) may also refer to the monastery itself as a place of spiritual peace. The Cathedral of St. Nicholas was first mentioned in written sources in 1392.

The area of ​​this rock is quite small, so there are cells, temples and other necessary buildings at different levels, somewhat reminiscent of an intricate labyrinth. There are 3 “floors” in the monastery:

• 1 – tiny church of St. Anthony;
• 2 – St. Nicholas Cathedral;
• 3 – small chapel of St. John the Baptist, crypt, refectory and cells.