Ushba. Forbidden peak. Mount Ushba, Caucasus: description, history and interesting facts Climbing routes and difficulty category
Killer Mountain, "Witches' Sabbath", Caucasian Matterhorn - these are just some of the names that people have given to the mountain rising in the middle of the Greater Caucasus. There are many legends around the mountain; it is the pride of (Georgia) and wins the heart of any person with its beauty.
Description
Ushba means “mountain that brings misfortune” from Svan (ush - trouble, ba - mountain). The Beauty of the Caucasus got its name because of the steep slopes and sheer cliffs. Not many daredevils these days have conquered the peaks of the Georgian beauty. There are two of them on the mountain: Northern (4690 m) and Southern (4710). True, on the map the height of Ushba is indicated - 4700 m, something average of the heights of the two peaks. It is interesting that another name for the mountain Yuch-bash, common in Karachay-Cherkessia, is translated as “three peaks”.
The slopes of the mountain closer to the peaks become vertical and have a pink color, as they consist of granite and gneiss. Their length is about two kilometers. In good weather, when the peaks of the mountain are not hidden behind the clouds, which happens quite often and does not depend on the rest of the weather in the region, especially at sunset (or dawn), the view that opens onto the Caucasian Matterhorn is mesmerizing with its splendor.
Therefore, many climbers gave their lives trying to conquer the slopes of the killer mountain, and those who were able to tame the obstinate queen of the mountains believe that the risk was justified. Perhaps that is why the popular names are “Witches’ Sabbath” or “Ushba - Killer Mountain”.
You can admire the Beauty of the Caucasus from any high point of Svaneti - the Becho community, the village of Lakhushti, Mulakhi. The Ugii Pass also serves as a good vantage point; tourists take a lot of photographs from these places.
Ushba can be observed even from Russia, since it is located not far from the Russian border with Georgia (1.5 km). From here you also get wonderful pictures of the mountain, but up close the photos, of course, turn out more epic. Even at such a distance, the mountain attracts the eye.
The legend of the brave hunter Betkil
“The Svan tribe has long lived at the foot of the mountain. Many years ago, a young hunter Betkil lived among them. He was young, handsome, handsome and lucky. He always brought prey, as if the goddess of the hunt herself - Dali helped him.
A young hunter fell in love with the most beautiful girl in the village and decided to marry her. The Svan tribe began to prepare for the wedding, and the groom, during preparations for the wedding ceremony, decided to climb the Two-Headed Mountain in order to appear before his tribe as a great hunter.
The elders of the village dissuaded him, since the mountain was sacred, and only the gods lived on its peaks. But the young hunter did not listen and, with the agility of a snow leopard, climbed higher and higher until he reached the place where Dali lived. The goddess of the hunt had long observed the life of a mortal and fell in love with him.
At the sight of the goddess, the hunter lost his head from her beauty, and Dali stopped time with a spell. And by the stream they enjoyed each other for a long time, forgetting about everything. But Dali fell asleep, and Betkil decided to take a walk along the mountainside. Suddenly the hunter saw the lights of his native village and remembered his bride. The groom yearned for his beloved and felt bitter that he had forgotten his girlfriend. Betkil ran away from Dali back to the valley, where the residents were preparing for his wedding; only one night passed for them. Having learned about the escape of her beloved, the goddess of the hunt wept bitterly and swore that the race did not want to become her beloved and would be a slave.
The wedding began, the Svans walked and drank, and the hunters boasted of their merits, but Betkil boasted the most intoxicated. Suddenly, during the wedding, a huge tour appeared at the edge of the forest.
The groom immediately wanted to kill the tour and prove to everyone that he was the greatest hunter. Betkil rushed after the beast, not noticing anything around. The hunter climbed higher and higher behind the tour, and the road behind him disappeared, leaving steep cliffs. When Betkil realized his mistake, it was too late. Goddess Dali came out to him with a triumphant smile.
Then the hunter turned to the residents of his tribe and asked to complete the wedding and conduct funeral rituals. After this, Betkil rushed down the steep cliffs with the words “Better a glorious death than the life of a slave.” Betkil's blood sprinkled the rocks of the Two-Headed Mountain and painted them pink. The elders still make sure that no one disturbs the goddess Dali or goes to the mountain. And since then the goddess of the hunt has never shown herself to people again.”
Climbing history
The mountain queen's character is quite nasty; she does not spare anyone who dares to set foot on her territory. But still there are brave souls who managed to tame the temper of the mountain beauty.
The mountain was first conquered by John Garford Kokin and his guide Ulrich Almer in 1888. They climbed Sereny Peak. They managed to climb the South Peak only in 1903, an expedition of Austrian, German and Swiss climbers. They were led by V. Rickmer-Rickmers. After that, such famous climbers as Mikhail Anufrikov, Lev Myshlyaev, Gio Niguriani visited the mountain.
It happens that not all climbs to Ushba end successfully. So in 1984, an avalanche covered 6 climbers of the Georgian mountaineering club. In 1995, 5 athletes fell off the cliffs. They were 20 meters away from the North Summit. In 2000, an ice collapse covered a camp in which there were both Russian and English climbers. Their bodies were never found.
Climbing routes
Ushba is not the highest mountain in the Caucasus, but there are quite a few successful ascents to it. Routes to the peaks have difficulty categories from 4A to 6A. Despite the fact that the real Mattehorn will be easier to conquer. The difficulty category of the Swiss mountain will be a little easier from 3A to 5A. True, Mattehorn (4478 m) is inferior in size to Ushbe.
More than a dozen different routes lead to the Northern and Southern peaks of Ushba. The difficulty of the climb depends on the time of year and weather conditions. But you need to remember that the climb can be deadly, despite its difficulty category. For some climbers, even the easiest routes turned out to be their last.
Despite the impressive altitude of 4700 m, half of the route can be covered by car; an UAZ is best suited for this; the road is quite narrow. Or you can use the Mountain, this mountain bike is suitable for crossing simple mountainous terrain.
Climbing to the North Peak
The village of Mestia is the most popular departure point to Ushba recently. Since climbing is possible only from Georgia. Since the location of the mountain is near the Russian border, and the border is locked. And all attempts to climb the Mountain are considered a crime under Russian law.
Mount Ushba is invisible on the world map. And to find it you must first find Elbrus. The two-headed beauty is located just a couple of tens of kilometers away; only the full splendor of Ushba can be admired from Russia.
The safest route begins from Mestia - a classic of Soviet mountaineering. The difficulty of the climb is 4A. The route takes 8-16 hours. The time is influenced by factors of preparation and natural conditions. The descent is carried out through the Ushba pass or Ushba Pillow. This meta makes great photos.
But not everything is as simple as it seems. Recently, there have been strong landslides at the Ushbinsky waterfall. It was through it that one could get to the mountain earlier. Now more and more cracks are forming in the ice, which change their location throughout the day. Therefore, now the previously laid out routes on the map are not relevant enough.
Climbing to the South Peak
The difficulty of this route is 5A. But of all the ascents to the Young Peak, it is the easiest. When climbing, climbers follow the path of Mikhail Khergiani. It is necessary to climb the ridge of the South-Western buttress, pass the “mirror” of Ushba and go down to the Gulkovsky overnight camps (not far from the settlement of Gul). The round trip route lasts 2 days.
The ascent along this route is technically difficult. The group is required to act as coordinatedly as possible, be extremely disciplined and have the skills of movement and insurance in mountainous terrain.
Also, more difficult routes are popular among climbers - along the Eastern Wall, the center of the North-Eastern Wall, the Eastern or Western Ridge, and the icefalls of the North-Western Wall.
Conclusion
The climb to Ushba is very difficult. Climbers who decide to climb are exposed to great risks. But despite this, the climb to the beauty of the Caucasus is worth it. There is no more joyful moment than being at the end of a difficult path and seeing the vast expanses of the mighty Caucasus ranges and taking a photo as a souvenir. Especially from such an inaccessible mountain as Two-Headed Ushba.
Photos
Dedicated to my friends who died while climbing Ushba.
Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba
I look at old photographs. I see the stern faces of people who risked their lives for the sake of true friendship and a common victory, indivisible into small parts. And common victory, like true friendship, knows neither state nor national differences and borders. Some of these people are no longer alive. But their departure is not shrouded in bashful evasions and vague omissions. Everything is clear and simple. They knew why and where they were going. And they knew what price they could pay. And they paid. In full.
Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba This story began a long time ago, woven in intricate knots around a peak with a strange and alarming name - Ushba. Since time immemorial, this mountain has hung like a gloomy rocky mass over the Svan village of Mestia, with its stern grandeur from an early age filling the hearts of the mountaineers with courage and pride for their people. How this happens is a mystery, but maybe it doesn’t matter how. The important thing is that a simple traveler who accidentally finds himself on a road that, cutting through a mountain slope, descends in loops to Mestia, even a stranger to these mountains feels a strange tension. And it is not difficult to determine its source - a strict, majestic peak, eerily regular in shape, the vertical base of which seems to rest on the very edge of the village, where the ancient Svan towers have been taking from this mountain an example of proud inaccessibility for almost a thousand years.
Ushba is a special mountain for Svaneti. Every man in this tiny mountainous country grows up with a deep sense of respect and awe for his most worthy personal test - Ushba. The very appearance of this mountain contains a challenge to human courage. Unapproachable and majestic, Ushba constantly serves as a reminder, prompting the most courageous to act, the audacity of which does not fit into the scheme of everyday needs. Without the slightest selfish interest, the Svans risk their lives for the sake of a pure victory, meaningless from a generally accepted point of view, but at a huge price - climbing to the top of Ushba. The Svans do not go to Ushba for money or rewards. There is no economic or hunting interest there. A one-of-a-kind fact, amazing, like the entire history of Svaneti - a small mountainous country, whose proud and free character nature itself expressed in the form of a Mountain.
Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba There is no greater reason for pride and respect in Svaneti than climbing Ushba, a peak seemingly inaccessible to mortals. For this unique quality, I especially love and respect the Svan people.
For us, Russian climbers, accustomed to seeing Ushba from the other side, from the north, this mountain does not have such metaphysical significance as for the inhabitants of Svaneti, but still, its appearance is eye-catching and frightening. The majestic double-headed peak rightfully reigns over the entire line of the Caucasus ridge. There is no doubt - this is the Queen. The tallest. The slenderest. And inaccessible.
None of the peaks of the Caucasus is covered with such an aura of legends, stories and dramatic facts as Ushba. This Mountain is a Legend, no less famous than the European symbol of mountaineering - the Matterhorn. In some ways these two mountains are very similar; some strange internal similarity unites them.
Historically, the same parallel. There would not have been such drama and self-sacrifice in the birth of mountaineering in the Alps if not for the Matterhorn. And who knows how Soviet mountaineering would have developed if not for Ushba?!
For a dozen generations of climbers, Ushba has become the foundation of skill, a criterion of maturity. Stories about the legendary climbs to Ushba were used to instill in young athletes respect and a desire to improve their mountaineering skills. But not everyone managed to achieve their desired goal. The cruelty and treachery of Ushba were also part of the glory of this peak. Many lives were cut short here...
And, as usual, I hear this question - was it worth it?! Woe to relatives, grief to friends. For what?! Ice and stone, the madness of a mighty element... But those who accepted the challenge and withstood this duel will not hesitate to respond. It was worth it. What remains in the heart justifies the risk. Repeatedly.
There are few values in the world that do not age. But from the moment of the first ascents of Ushba at the end of the 19th century, when Austrian climbers first climbed the uncharted heights of the most difficult peaks of the Caucasus, and to the present day, when, at the risk of being imprisoned for violating the state border and not even hoping for help in case of failure, climbers take on the most difficult routes - the price of the issue has not changed one iota - the game is definitely worth the candle.
Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba There are many beautiful routes to Ushba, among which there are no easy ones - only the strongest and most experienced can access this mountain. The names of the first climbers also became legends long ago - Kokkin, Khergiani, Myshlyaev, Abalakov... There was not a single athlete in the Union who crossed the master line who did not know the full depth of the meaning of this short word - Ushba. The Ushbists were especially respected, because they had unique experience, which could only be obtained in confrontation with the Queen of the Caucasus - Ushba. Even the difficulty categories for routes to Ushba did not fall into the general framework of sports categories - athletes who did not have experience in climbing routes of the same category were not allowed on the Ushba routes. Ushba has always been the most famous technical peak of the Caucasus in the country.
As you probably already understand, for me Ushba is not just a peak. From the very beginning of my acquaintance with the mountains, Ushba was the criterion by which purity of aspirations, strength of courage, and inflexibility of will are measured. This is the Top. I guess I'm a bit of a Swan at heart. But after my first ascent of Ushba, I felt like a different person. And the success of our memorial ascent in 2002 is also largely based on the common understanding among all participants of the exceptional importance of Ushba and a reverent attitude towards it.
But Legend Mountain, the cherished dream of so many climbers, is now outlawed.
Another amazing fact, quite comparable to the rest. How is it possible that a world-famous peak, an inseparable part of the history of our, Soviet, and now Russian mountaineering, suddenly found itself banned, and climbing Ushba became a serious crime. However, this is the situation today.
Ushba is located in the short southern spur of the Main Caucasus Range. That is, beyond the border, which runs along this very ridge. The border with Georgia, for those who haven’t guessed it yet. And Georgia is now an enemy for us.
Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba The state must protect its borders. From whom should they be protected? From enemies, of course, from criminals, smugglers and terrorists. But none of these criminal elements are interested in Ushba. It is difficult to even imagine a more fantastic, complex and intricate way to violate the border.
No, hundreds of heavily armed Russian border guards guard Ushba only from climbers. For what? Who needs to rob people of the pure joy of sports victory? How did it happen that those who, not sparing their own lives, saved mine, and then cried at the top from the joy of a common victory - now, as propaganda claims, have become enemies?! No, something is wrong here. It can not be. I didn't understand something or got it all wrong. Surely it cannot be that its own citizens become enemies of the state?!
I was just looking at old photographs from the expedition to Ushba. The now forbidden peak.
P.S. If (suddenly) this text catches the eye of any of those in whose hands there is power and authority over issues of a national scale, think, just think, no more - what’s wrong with the fact that climbers will have the opportunity not only to look at Ushba and listen to the stories of veterans?! Is it really an insoluble political impasse that the majestic peaks of Ushba can be accessed from the Russian side, as has been the case for over 100 years? Is it really so difficult for politicians to take a step towards, even if not each other, but at least their own citizens, athletes, whose only interest is to experience the pure joy of victory on the top of a stunningly beautiful mountain?! Is this really SO difficult and deeply infringing on state interests?
Our principles
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety Priority
From the very beginning of our activities, for almost 16 years, the first operating principle of the MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Climbing is the Priority of Safety. The entire learning process is built on the basis of this Principle; all programs and tours are developed and conducted exclusively within the framework of this main Principle. We believe that with a professional approach to program development, personal discipline and proper motivation, mountaineering and rock climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the opposite - all the troubles and accidents in our sport come from unprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect of basic safety standards, from irrational motivation, from overestimation of one’s own strengths and capabilities. We COMPLETELY EXCLUDE all these prerequisites in our work - our Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Priority of Safety. In rock climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, MCS AlexClimb's Safety Priority is your personal safety and comfort, no matter what we are doing - training muscles and practicing movement techniques in the gym and on the climbing wall, making our way through a snowstorm to the top or relaxing on the golden sand of the Caribbean beach after a hot day of training on the rocks. The priority of Safety is the main credo of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Working closely with nature, conducting active programs in the mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, we perfectly understand the importance of a careful and respectful attitude towards nature and its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor activities, we adopted the Leave No Trace technique - a norm of human behavior in relation to the environment and especially to wild nature, accepted throughout the civilized world. Indeed, from the attitude of people to the nature next to which they exist, far-reaching conclusions can be drawn about the attitude of these people to themselves... Wherever and how we travel, we do not leave any garbage behind us, we try to reduce our impact on the environment as much as possible. environment to a minimum. We clear previously contaminated tourist sites from the garbage left behind, take out and take to disposal sites what other people left there before us. We believe that only in this way, with the personal individual consciousness of every citizen, every tourist, climber or road traveler, will we be able to preserve the nature around us in its natural, livable state - this is the key to a healthy future for ourselves and our children.
AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober consciousness
The position of the MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing regarding a healthy lifestyle is clear - we believe that only a sober consciousness is capable of sincerely experiencing and sympathizing, enjoying life in all its diversity. A bright and fulfilling life is possible only subject to absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any drugs that cloud our perception of reality are intended to harm our consciousness and physical health, replace true values with false ones, destroy us as people - turn us into a flabby, powerless, senseless, gray herd with dull eyes. We do not impose our point of view on anyone; everyone has the opportunity to make their own choice. But inside our School we unspokenly accept a very specific, very simple set of rules: no alcohol, no drugs.25.07.2017 – 06.08.2017
Climbing participants:
Stepan Boyko 1985
Maxim Boyko 1988
Vlad Usachov 1989
Introduction.
The idea to climb Ushba originated a long time ago, but the concrete decision was made a year ago, after which careful and systematic preparation began. Gathering information, preparing equipment, training, trips to the rocks.
- “Why Ushba?” - everything is simple, from the point of view of sporting interest, this mountain is very popular among climbers. Just like in any other sport, a person strives to develop and sets new goals for himself, so in mountaineering, climbing Ushba is a new level of testing oneself and one’s strength.
Yes, in fact, what should I describe here? There is already a lot of information about this legendary mountain. I'd rather concentrate more on our ascent.
It so happened that the story of our ascent would be well suited for an action-packed film about mountaineering. Well, probably with such a complex and mystical mountain it can’t be any other way.
The ascent of our team can be divided into four stages:
1. Acclimatization and approach to base camp (B.L.) Ushba
2. Transition to the assault camp at 4200m
3. Climb to the top and descend at night
4. Descent to B.L.
1. Acclimatization and approach to B.L. Ushba.
The long preparation is over, it's time to act.
We arrived in Tbilisi, from there we had a long journey to Mestia with a cheerful taxi driver. In Mestia we register with the border guards, or rather, we take a pass to the border zone and in another car we transfer to our start in the village of Lezgara. We leave some of our things in the house, take only what is necessary for acclimatization and move to the first camp at an altitude of 1700m. In fact, our acclimatization was a separate ascent to the top of Mount Laila 4008m, technically much simpler than our main ascent. And immediately on the second day problems began, especially for me. In order not to waste time, we decided to go through the Chizhdy pass at an altitude of 3097m and stopped at a parking lot on the descent from it at an altitude of 2800m. The altitude of more than 3 thousand on the second day made itself felt, especially, I would say, like never before, nausea, vomiting, headache, weakness, loss of appetite. By evening I felt better and gradually adapted.
The next day, armed with crampons and ice axes, we go out to the Jvari pass 3427m. Everything is fine, we are moving according to plan, the weather is good, my mood is excellent, but I still have no appetite. A group of tourists from Cherkassy and Kyiv found gasoline left behind, which, by the way, we didn’t need to buy again in the future. On the 4th day of acclimatization we will storm the top of Mount Laila 4008m. Since we climbed Laila last year, we decided to climb it from the other side, going around the left to the ridge. For better acclimatization, we decided to spend the night near the peak at an altitude of 3990m, where there was a cleared place for one tent. The weather is great, but that doesn’t make it any easier, the sun is blazing hot and there’s nowhere to hide from it. In the morning a cloud covered us and a gusty wind rose. We had to pack up camp and descend in extreme conditions, jumping through cracks in the fog. My legs were burning, I dropped 2300m in a day. My condition became more and more critical, I didn’t eat anything for almost 5 days, the guys joked that I was running on solar energy, but I had no time for jokes. I understood that in such a state there could be no talk of climbing Ushba. In the morning we go down to the house where we left our things. We are sorting through things and equipment, desperately trying to fit them into our backpacks. The guys decided to unload me, and in the end their backpacks cost 40 kg. Next we transfer to Mazeri, where we split up. Stepan and Max go up to B.L. Ushba, and I’m staying in the hospitable Jamal’s house for a couple of days to regain my strength and appetite. I can only imagine how difficult it was for the guys to climb to BL, but despite everything, they did it! Fattening up on khachapuri and resting on a soft bed, I quickly recovered. On the third day I went up to the guys in B.L., which resembled a hot frying pan from the heat, with a swarm of gadflies, I have never seen them in such numbers...
At the top of Laila 4008m
Mountain Ushba ("Coven" from Georgian) is located at the very end of the Shkheldinsky gorge, on the border of Russia and Georgia. Altitude 4700 m above sea level.
The Ushba massif consists of two peaks - Northern (4690 m) and Southern (4710 m). They are connected by the Ushbinskaya lintel or “pipe”; this name was not given in vain; even in good weather it is windy there.
Ushba is considered one of the most difficult “four thousand meters” mountains in the world. The easiest route to North Ushba is 4A, to South Ushba - 5A.
On all sides, the slopes of the massif are cut off by steep 1000 - 1500 meter walls along which 10 routes of 6th category of difficulty and 13 - 5B grades are laid. Today there are approximately fifty routes on Ushba, a dozen of which are classified as category 6a, and about thirty have category 5b.
The simplest, classic route to Northern Ushba (4A) passes through the Ushba plateau through a characteristic “shoulder”, called “Pillow”, and then along a steep ice-snow “knife” of 300 meters, which rises from the “Pillow” to the summit ridge . There is ice under the snow, and if there was heavy snow in the days preceding the ascent, the danger of avalanches increases sharply. Further along the long northern ridge, framed by double cornices, exit to the top. They usually start their ascent from the Ushbinsky plateau and spend 6-8 hours to reach the top and 2-4 hours to descend.
Here she is, the Queen of the Caucasus, a majestic, inaccessible, capricious and proud peak. Ushba is a legend of world mountaineering, with a long and dramatic history of ascents.The majestic profile, geometric correctness of the forms and the colossal scale of this world-famous Caucasian mountain leave no room for doubt about this.
« Ushba, Uzhba, a two-headed steep peak in the central part of the Greater Caucasus, rising southeast of the Elbrus massif on the short southern spur of the Main, or Watershed, ridge in Svaneti. Altitude up to 4700 m.”
(Great Soviet Encyclopedia)
The map was compiled by Vladimir Kopylov. www.Elbrus1.com
The Ushba plateau, located at an altitude of 4000 m, is covered with a powerful glacier and is surrounded by the peaks of the Main Range - Shkhelda, Ushba Malaya, Shchurovsky Peak, Chatyn and Ushba. From the southwest, the plateau is bounded by a long, heavily indented Eastern ridge - the “saw” of the Eastern Shhelda.
Solo against the backdrop of Ushba
Ushba is considered one of the most difficult “four thousand meters” mountains in the world. It is located at the very end of the Shkheldinsky Gorge, on the border of Russia and Georgia. Altitude 4700 m above sea level. The Ushba massif consists of two peaks. On all sides, the slopes of the massif are cut off by steep 1000-1500-meter walls.
The North Peak (4690 m) was first climbed in 1888 by John Garford Cockin with guide Ulrich Almer. The southern peak (4700 m) was conquered only in 1903 by an expedition of German, Swiss and Austrian climbers, led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers.
The two peaks are connected by the Ushba bridge or “pipe”. It lives up to its name: even in good weather it is windy.
