Frightening pictures from Mount Everest that have taken the internet by storm. My way to the top of Everest (8848 m) There are terrible stories among those who have been there...

Height (meters): 8848

Located on the border of China and Nepal, in the Mahalangur Himal range, the highest peak in the world. Height 8848 m. Possible routes 5A, 5B, 6A, 6B.

Everest (or Chomolungma) is the highest mountain in the world. Official height data for 2010 is 8848 meters above sea level. Chomolungma translated from Tibetan means “mistress of the winds.” The name "Everest" is given to the mountain in honor of Sir George Everest, Chairman of the Geodetic Survey of India. Mount Everest is located on the border of China and Nepal, in the Sagarmatha National Tibetan Park. The southern peak with a height of 8760 meters is located directly on the very border of the countries, and the northern one - the main peak (8848 meters) - is located in China. The height from the foot of the mountain to the top is approximately 3500 meters. The slopes of Everest are quite steep, especially the southern slope, snow does not stay there, so rocks are exposed. To the south of Everest rises an eight-thousander - Mount Lhotse, its height is 8516 meters. The two mountains are connected by the South Col, whose height is 7906 meters. The North Col (altitude 7020 meters) connects Everest with the peak of Changze (7543 meters). From the east, the slope of Everest is very steep, it consists of a wall called Kangashung (3350 meters). The climate on Everest is very harsh; in winter the average monthly temperature is -36°C, and can drop to -60°C. At the top of Everest, stormy winds blow, wind speeds can reach 55 m/s. At the foot of the mountain is the highest monastery in the world - Runbuk.
Mount Everest is made of sandstone and limestone, it’s hard to imagine, but once upon a time the peak of Everest was under the water of the ancient Tethys Ocean. 60 million years ago, the continents began to move, the Indian lithospheric plate collided with the Eurasian plate and the Himalayas began to form. Mount Everest is growing at 5 millimeters per year.

Mountaineering

The highest peak in the world inevitably attracts great attention from climbers from all over the world, and this despite the fact that climbing Everest is not a cheap pleasure. The very possibility of climbing, permission to climb costs a lot of money, as well as transfer, equipment, services of guides, Sherpas, meteorologists, doctors and other personnel. The duration of the Everest expedition is two months, including acclimatization and setting up camps. During an expedition, a person loses an average of 10-15 kg of weight. This is the influence of altitude and significant physical activity. The right time to climb the mountain is spring and autumn, the most favorable time is spring, because at this time there are no monsoons; in autumn, climbing is possible only from the south. To climb Everest, you will have to spend more than 50 thousand dollars; the climbing permit alone costs 10 thousand dollars. Currently, ascents to Everest are usually carried out with the participation of specialized travel companies that organize the ascent, provide equipment, and other services. In the 21st century, there has been a significant increase in the number of climbers; in one day, dozens and even hundreds of people go to the top at once; due to such a huge flow of climbers, traffic jams and even fights form on the route.
But even with the right travel company and the right selection of equipment, the success of the climb depends entirely on the weather. Acclimatization also plays a big role. The last 300 meters are recognized as the most difficult section of the climb; this section is even called “the longest mile on the planet.” Climbing Everest is a very difficult undertaking. This is due to climatic conditions, which at such a great altitude are simply unsuitable for human life. The air becomes too thin, so that there is not enough oxygen in it for normal human breathing, so the majority of climbers reach the summit only with oxygen cylinders. The oxygen content in the atmosphere at an altitude of more than 8100 meters is only 30% of normal. Low temperatures combined with strong winds make it very difficult to climb to the top; the most common causes of death when climbing Everest are hypothermia, lack of air and altitude sickness. Every climber who tries to climb Everest understands that he may not return from the mountain. But climbers walking along the path and meeting on their way a person who is still alive, but can no longer walk on his own, are forced to make one of the most difficult decisions of their lives: help or pass by. And often the right decision is to pass by and save your life, because most often an attempt to help a person freezing on the trail will simply lead to the death of both climbers. The degree of hypothermia of the victim may already be so great that it will no longer be possible to help him, and the life of the second person will be at risk. There are frequent cases of death during the ascent; nowadays Everest is even called a “high-altitude cemetery.” Climbers climbing to the top even have to step over frozen bodies, some of which serve as a specific landmark. So at an altitude of 8500 lies the body of the Hindu Tsewang Paljor, who died in 1996. This point is called "green boots", because of the bright green boots of the deceased. It is not possible to lower the bodies of the dead from the slopes of the mountain due to the enormous labor intensity of this enterprise. Therefore, the dead climbers remain forever in the power of the mountain, which did not submit to them.
Another problem is that the mountain is heavily polluted. Due to massive ascents on the slopes of the mountain at an altitude of more than 7000 meters, there are a lot of abandoned oxygen cylinders and other debris, which are subsequently very difficult to remove from the route.
Routes to Everest.jpg From Russia to Everest the tourist club "7 Summits" organizes expeditions link to website

How to get there

From Nepal side

You need to fly to Kathmandu by plane, and from Kathmandu by plane to Lukla. Next, you need to get to Namche Bazar by car, from Namche Bazar on foot or by car to Lobuche, where the climbers’ base camp is located.



After first ascent of Everest in 1953, the period of its development began - the search and passage of new routes. At that time, the so-called Himalayan style climbing - large and long expeditions, preliminary preparation of the route, installation of numerous intermediate camps. Expeditions actively used the help of Sherpas to deliver cargo to the beginning of the route and climb to the lower camps; ascents were made with the use of additional oxygen. At this time, most of the logical routes to Everest were completed, including technically difficult ones along the Southwestern and Northern walls. Climbing the classic routes during this period is still a serious achievement, although climbers from many countries climb the now classic route through the South Col.

1953 First ascent of Everest. Tenth British expedition led by , fourteen participants, including a physiologist and a cameraman. Sirdar - Norgay Tenzing. R. S. Evans and T. D. Bourdillon climbed the South Summit of Everest (8765 m). .

1956 Third Swiss expedition (Schweizerische Mount Everest-Expedition 1956): leader Albert Egler. Two teams, J. Marmet - E. Schmid (23 May) and H. von Gunten - E. Reiss (24 May) reach the top. These are the second and third ascents of Everest. On May 18, members of this expedition, Fritz Lugsinger and Ernst Reiss, made the first ascent of Lhotse (8516).

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Everest - the highest mountain in the world

Everest (or, as it is called in Nepal, Chomolungma) rises 8848.43 meters above sea level. Climbing Everest is a real dream for every climber, but, without a doubt, it is also a very dangerous adventure, since a huge number of people have died trying to conquer this peak. The highest point on our planet is known to every schoolchild today. But the history of the discovery of Everest and the fate of many brave people who tried to conquer it often remain a mystery to the general public.

Infographics

Shocking truth

Resembling a pyramid in shape, rising many kilometers above sea level due to the movement of lithospheric plates, Everest rises above Asia right on the border of China and Nepal. This peak is rightfully considered one of the most magnificently beautiful, but at the same time, tragic and dangerous places in the world. Its rocky silhouette invariably attracts numerous brave and courageous conquerors who try to reach the top at the cost of enormous effort, and sometimes even at the cost of their own lives. Unfortunately, many climbers remained forever among the snow and rocky gorges. More than 235 climbers and local residents died while trying to conquer the highest peak on the globe (although the exact number of deaths remains unknown today, because not all of them officially registered their ascent). The difficulty lies not only in the increased atmospheric pressure and rarefied air, which is impossible to breathe for a long time, but also in the danger of the route itself. However, despite all these difficulties, many people continue to risk their lives in order to spend a few minutes on top of the world. There is something about it that irresistibly attracts brave climbers...

How much does it cost to climb Everest?

This question is very popular today. Everyone knows that high-altitude expeditions require not only serious physical and tactical training of participants, but also considerable investments. The average price is about $30,000 if you go on your own or with your organized and independent group. Travel companies offer their own expeditions, and the price for their services is about $60,000. The price of a VIP expedition, which includes constant Internet access and telephone communication, is often higher than $90,000. Overall, it all depends on the guide and the quantity and quality of services included in the package. However, when choosing an instructor and a company, it is important to consider not only the price and image of the company. It is always best to study this issue yourself and very carefully. In particular, it would be a good idea to pay attention to whether the package includes the cost of the flight and the services of Sherpas. The thing is that sometimes you have to pay for the participation of local "helpers" on the spot when you are already at base camp, so to avoid unexpected surprises, it is always better to research the details in advance.

Why so expensive?

The Nepalese government imposes a mandatory fee on all foreigners who want to climb Everest. Depending on the size of the group and time period, the fee can range from $11,000 to $25,000.

Many readers will probably be indignant: “Where do these prices come from??!” But, on the other hand, judge for yourself: even with such collections, there are tens of tons of garbage on the slopes; more than 200 people died while climbing Everest... Imagine what would have happened if this fee had not been charged - the number of climbers, of course, would have increased sharply, and the peak would have begun to look like something terrible.

Another important point is the correct selection of the necessary equipment, which also costs a lot of money. Costs for guides, instructors and Sherpas often depend on the size of the group, so prices vary from year to year.

Facts about Everest

  1. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain chain, is 29,035 feet (8,848 meters) high.
  2. A sedentary volcano in the Hawaiian Islands, Mauna Kea ranks first among the highest mountains in the world, not counting sea level.
  3. Everest is more than 60 million years old and was formed by the pushing of the Indian tectonic plate towards the Asian one. Due to seismic activity in the region, Everest grows about a quarter of an inch (0.25") taller every year.
  4. The peak is located right on the border line of Nepal to the south and China, also known as Tibet, to the north.
  5. Chomolungma (translated from Tibetan) literally means “holy mother of the universe.”
  6. To keep warm, climbers are advised to use oxygen at the summit. As for food, it is useful to eat a lot of rice and noodles even before the ascent, since you will need a serious supply of energy for such an expedition. On average, climbers burn more than 10,000 calories daily, and this number doubles during the summit; Over the course of the expedition, participants lose 10 to 20 pounds of weight.
  7. In the entire history of attempts to conquer the peak, it is officially known that 282 people (including 169 Western climbers and 113 Sherpas) died on Everest from 1924 to August 2015. If we talk about the causes of death, 102 climbers were injured while attempting to climb without the use of additional oxygen. Most of the bodies remain in the snow and gorges to this day, although Chinese officials have reported that many bodies have been removed. The most common cause of death is snow avalanches and rockfalls, followed by avalanches and third by altitude sickness.
  8. The youngest person ever to reach the top is an American schoolboy named Jordan Romero. He made his ascent at the age of 13, on May 23, 2010 (he climbed the peak from the north side).
  9. 14 climbers managed to cross from one side of the peak to the other.
  10. Wind speeds at the summit can reach 200 mph.
  11. On average it takes about 40 days to complete the climb. The fact is that the human body needs some time to get used to being at such a height above sea level and to acclimatize immediately before the ascent.
  12. The first climbers who managed to climb the peak of Everest without using additional oxygen in cylinders were the team of Reinold Messner and Peter Hubler (Italy) back in 1978. Later, 193 climbers who followed their example also managed to reach the summit without resorting to additional oxygen (this accounts for 2.7% of all ascents to the peak). Each breath taken at the top of Everest contains 66% less oxygen than a breath taken at sea level.
  13. To date, approximately 7,000 ascents to the peak of Everest have been made, with more than 4,000 people participating in all known routes.
  14. The oldest climber to conquer the mountain was Miura Yuchiro (Japan), who climbed at the age of 80 on May 23, 2013.
  15. There are 18 different official routes to the summit of Everest.
  16. The first woman to reach the top of Everest was Japanese climber Junko Tabei (1975).
  17. In order not to fall off rocks and glaciers, climbers use nylon ropes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. Special metal spikes (“crampons”) are put on the soles of the boots to prevent slipping. In addition, ice axes are used, which can stop a possible fall on a rocky and icy surface. When it comes to clothing, climbers opt for thick suits that are filled with goose feathers.
  18. Sherpas are the collective name for the people who live in western Nepal. Initially, several centuries ago, they migrated from Tibet. Today they help climbers prepare for the climb by helping to carry food, tents and other supplies to the intermediate camps located above the base camp.
  19. Climbers begin using oxygen tanks at an altitude of 7,925 m (26,000 ft). but this only makes a 915 m (3,000 ft) difference in how they feel. In principle, at an altitude of 8230 m (27,000 ft) a person will feel like at 7315 m (24,000 ft) above sea level, which, in fact, will not make a significant difference in the well-being of climbers.
  20. Temperatures at the peak can drop as low as -62C (80F below zero).

Story

Everest appeared on the earth's surface about 60 million years ago. The mountain has quite a long history of “first climbers”, starting with an unsuccessful attempt that was made back in 1921 by the British expedition of George Mallory and Guy Bullock. Much later, in 1953, the highest peak on Earth was finally conquered by a brave team of Italian climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The history of ascents and new achievements continues to this day. But the world's highest peak is not only a vantage point or a major challenge for climbers, but also home to the mountain people, the Sherpas, who have lived there for more than 500 years. This small nation is the best guides and porters for tourists and professionals who decide to defy fate and climb the highest and most difficult peak on our planet.

Where is Everest located?

Everest is not only the highest mountain, it is also the highest point located on the border of two countries. The mountain is located between the territories of China and Nepal, but its peak is in China, or more precisely, in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Everest is part of the Himalaya mountain system and is only one of the nine peaks of this mountain range. Interestingly, the Himalayas consist of the thirty-nine highest peaks in the world, so Everest has many younger "brothers". Together they form a fence between the Tibetan and Indian subcontinental plateaus.

The entire mountain system is located in South Asia and passes through Pakistan, Bhutan, Tibet, India and Nepal. This is the reason why Everest has several names. In Tibet it is called "Qomolungma", the Chinese version of the name is "Shèngmǔ Fēng". Locals in Darjeeling call it "Deodungha", which translates to "Holy Mountain". For many years it was believed that the highest peak in the world was in the Andes, and only in 1852 was a mathematician from India able to reveal to the world the truly highest mountain.

How did he get his name?

The highest mountain was discovered by George Everest, who served as the Indian Secretary General, in 1841. Since then, the official name that has been given to the highest peak on Earth has been derived from the surname of the discoverer. Before this, the peak was called differently in different countries, based on local languages ​​and dialects. But since the highest point on the planet must have a single name that is understandable to everyone, the name of its discoverer has officially become recognized at the international level.

In what country is Everest located?

At various points in its history, Everest was considered part of both China and Nepal. After annexation in May 1959, relations between Nepal and China became absolutely friendly, and the fact that the border between the countries lies on the peak of the highest mountain in the world is a symbolic confirmation of this. Therefore, theoretically, the peak that is closest to space does not belong to one specific country, but is a common property of Nepal and China. Every tourist who decides to at least look at Everest from the outside, not to mention climb to the top, can choose at his own discretion from which side it is more convenient to do this. But it’s fair to note that the view from Nepal is much more beautiful, and the climb is much easier.

What is the height of Everest?

Imagine that you live in a world where there is no Mount Everest, it has not yet been discovered, and at school the teacher tells you that the highest mountain is the one called Kanchenjunga, or Dhaulagiri, for example. Even in the 19th century, many were convinced that the highest point on our planet was anything but Everest. Only in 1852 was it confirmed that Everest is the highest point on our planet. The height of the mountain is 8848 meters above sea level and increases by 4 millimeters annually due to plate movement. In addition, earthquakes in Nepal can move Everest and even change its height. Thus, modern scientists continue to argue that none of the measurements of the height of Everest from either the Chinese or Nepalese sides are correct. Chomolungma continues to grow. Continental plates do not stand still; they constantly push Everest higher and higher.

Interestingly, the exact height of the mountain is still a matter of dispute. Back in 1856, when British explorers first measured the height of the peak using a theodolite, it was recorded as 8,840 m (or 22,002 ft). Currently, the official height of Everest is 8,848 m (29,029 ft). To imagine how high Everest is, it is enough to understand that its highest point is located almost at the flight level of a fighter plane. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the slopes of this mountain are not inhabited by animals and birds due to high pressure and rarefied air. However, Everest is home to one rare species of spider that hides in the crevices of the mountains. This insect feeds on other frozen insects that fall to the top with winds and snow masses.

Neighborhood

The Everest massif consists of several individual peaks such as Changtse at 7,580 m (24,870 ft), Nuptse at 7,855 m (58,772 ft) and Lhotse at 8,516 m or 27,940 ft. At the time of the discovery of these peaks, it was very difficult to measure the height of the mountain peak with accuracy. Back then, special instruments called theodolites were used to measure height, weighing more than 500 kg (1,100 lbs) and requiring 10-15 people to move such a device. Several attempts were made to measure the exact height of Mount Everest, and it was only in 1949, shortly before the first ascent, that accurate data was finally obtained.

The closest place where people live is Rongbuk, a Buddhist temple that was founded back in 1902. It was reconstructed not long ago after complete destruction in the 70s of the last century, during the civil war. Currently, this place becomes the last living quarters on the way of climbers to the top of the world. In Rongbuk you can stay in a small hotel and even have dinner in a tiny restaurant.

About height

For nearly three hundred years, the highest known point on Earth was Chimborazo, a volcano in the Andes. Its height is “only” 6,267 meters. In the 19th century, this version was destroyed as a new champion became known to the world - Nanda Devi Peak in India with a height of 7,816 meters. This may seem funny, but today Nanda Devi ranks only 23rd in the list of the highest mountains in the world. But there is a reason that the listed peaks were indeed the highest points of the known world at that time: after all, Nepal, which is not without reason called the roof of the world, was closed to everyone for a long time.

Everest is officially one of the most polluted mountains in the world due to the lack of infrastructure and the presence of a constant influx of tourists. Numerous groups leave behind a huge amount of garbage, ranging from simple food bags to oxygen tanks and old equipment, which are stored and accumulated for decades on the slopes of this mountain, considered sacred by local residents.

Scientists are constantly finding the remains of marine life that were fossilized in the structure of rocks 450 million years ago, at a time when the surface of Everest was not yet a peak or a mountain, but remained part of the seabed. The Himalayas were formed only 60 million years ago. The record holders for visiting the peak of Everest are two Sherpas: Apa Sherpa and Tashi Phurba, who managed to climb the peak 21 times, having the opportunity to admire the alpine landscape of the Himalayan mountains from the highest point.

Mortality

Unfortunately, Mount Everest turned out to be a very difficult place to climb and is rightfully considered one of the most dangerous peaks on Earth. The danger lies in record low temperatures and air with low oxygen content, frequent landslides and avalanches, which took many lives of local residents and climbers who decided to overcome this height. The greatest tragedy in the history of Everest occurred in 2014, when a huge avalanche killed 16 local Nepalese guides. This happened near one of the base camps. The second largest tragedy was in 1996, when 15 climbers did not return from the ascent.

These people died due to various reasons, some due to the use of inappropriate equipment, others due to a lack of oxygen in the cylinders or unexpected changes in weather conditions that made it impossible to return to base camp. The third largest number of victims was the unsuccessful expedition of 2011, when 11 people remained forever in the snows of the Himalayan mountains. All of them are buried in the snow and ice of Everest. Avalanches and rockfalls are the most common causes of death on the slopes of Everest.

Everest Base Camps

For those who decide to climb Everest, there are, as mentioned earlier, two options - to start the climb from China or to take the Nepalese route. In order to get used to the atmospheric pressure and acclimatize at altitude, there are two main base camps. In any of them, each tourist will be able to spend the necessary amount of time so that the body gets used to new conditions, since acclimatization in this case will help prevent mountain sickness. Both camps have doctors who can advise climbers and assess everyone's health before climbing. Staying at base camp for some time helps to avoid health problems associated with changes in blood pressure.

The South Camp is located on the Nepal side, and the North Camp is on the Tibetan (Chinese) side of Everest. Although the northern camp can even be reached by car on summer days, the camp on the south side is becoming more and more popular. And, of course, all the residents of the surrounding villages, who were previously engaged in agriculture and livestock raising, are now completely focused on providing visitors with everything they need. They help in transporting things and supplies to the upper intermediate control points, in preparing food, and offering various products. In addition to the main stopover camps on the route to Everest, there are several others located both before and after the main two. They represent way stations on the way to conquering the top of the world.

The supply of food and equipment to the southern base camp occurs through Sherpa porters, since transport links in this region are impossible. Food, medicine and other necessities are delivered using yaks, local pack animals.

Climbing

If you think that everyone can climb Everest if they really want to, you are very mistaken. Firstly, it is very expensive, about 60,000 dollars. Climbing the highest mountain in the world is not just a fun adventure. It is important to understand that this is not ordinary cozy tourism, but a challenge and the risk of mortal danger. Every year, several tourists die trying to conquer this rocky peak: some fall into an abyss or a gap between glaciers, some cannot withstand the high temperatures, and some get altitude sickness.

Naturally, such a difficult test will require serious preparation and a huge amount of special equipment: shoes, clothing, tools and gadgets. A large group of experts and assistants for the proper organization of the trip and many years of experience in climbing other peaks are also required. But if we talk about the process itself, then it is, of course, incredibly exciting. No matter which route you choose, it is recommended to travel with a Sherpa companion. Today the region is home to approximately 3,000 Sherpas, all of whom are top-notch guides, helpers and porters, as well as summit conquerors. In short, the Sherpas are a nation of mountain people. If you've seen the famous photograph of man's first ascent of Everest, you'll understand how amazing, inexpressible in words, the feeling at the top can be. As Tenzing Norgay admitted, “I wanted to jump, dance, these were the best feelings in my life, because I stood above the whole world.”

The most popular season for climbing Everest is spring. Autumn expeditions are less popular. By far the most popular way to climb Everest is through a guided expedition. This ensures that the group will have a professional with them who knows the surest path to the top. In addition, you can rely on his knowledge and experience even in the most unpredictable situations; he is a reliable support and support for the group. The guide will be able to explain to the participants everything they need to know before starting the climb, help them choose the necessary equipment and check the physical and health conditions of the participants in advance.

Plan

The very first step to climbing Everest is to begin proper preparation, including gaining serious experience of climbing other peaks. These are very important requirements, since such an expedition is quite risky and dangerous and requires certain skills. It begins at one of the base camps (on the southern or northern slope), which is selected depending on the route and ascent plan. So, to reach the base camp, located at an altitude of approximately 5,000 m (16,000 ft) above sea level, participants will need about a week. Here they can talk to experienced guides, check their physical condition and get some rest before climbing Everest. Then, for an additional fee, climbers can enlist the help of Sherpa mountaineers who will help carry the necessary equipment, food and oxygen cylinders to intermediate camps.

How long will it take to climb Everest?

Of course, climbing to the top of the world does not mean walking along picturesque snow-covered slopes. For less trained climbers and for those at least minimal risk of developing any disease, the acclimatization period at medium altitude (at base camp at 5100 meters above sea level) can in some cases reach 30-40 days. For a whole month you will be surrounded by Sherpas and your companions until your body gets used to the atmospheric pressure and lack of oxygen. Only after this can you continue climbing. On average, when it comes to backpacking expeditions, the duration of the entire climb (from the moment you arrive in Kathmandu until you reach the highest point on the globe) will be about 60 days. Once everything is prepared, it will take about 7 days to climb from base camp to the summit. After this, approximately another 5 days will be spent on descending to base camp.

The first person to conquer Everest

Although the first person to set foot on the top of the world was Edmund Hillary, many attempts had been made to climb Everest long before him. Back in the twenties, a special expedition of the newly created Everest Committee developed the most optimal ascent routes. It is not surprising that the members of this expedition became the first to set foot on the top of the “sacred mountain” that Everest was for the local residents. And yet, two completely different people, Sir Edmund Hillary and the Nepalese mountaineer Tenzing Norgay, together made the first successful ascent to the summit from the south side and were finally able to find themselves where no one had ever set foot before.

In 1953, when this outstanding event finally happened, China closed Everest to all visitors, and the world community allowed no more than one expedition per year. In conditions of low temperatures, constantly tormented by strong gusts of wind, Tenzing and Hillary, despite the need to stay in one place for several days in a row, were still able to conquer the highest point on the planet. Edmund Hillary dedicated his achievement to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, and it was the best gift in honor of a significant event in Great Britain. Although Hillary and Tenzing spent only 15 minutes on top of the mountain, those 15 minutes today are comparable only to the first steps on the moon.

The youngest person to ever reach the top is an American eighth grader from California. He was only 13 years old on the day of the ascent. A resident of Nepal, a 15-year-old girl named Min Kipa Shira, became the second youngest climber to conquer Everest. Her ascent was crowned with success in 2003. The oldest man to reach the summit of Everest was 80-year-old Miura Yuchiro from Japan, and the oldest woman was Tamae Watanabe from Japan, who climbed at the age of 73.

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Video

Sagarmatha, also known as Chomolungma, also known as Everest, is the highest peak on planet Earth. There are not many people who have conquered it, just over 4,000 people. Every year hundreds of people try to conquer this peak, but not everyone succeeds. Chomo Kankar (which translated from Tibetan means “mother is the queen of snowy whiteness”) has a height of 8848 meters (official data) and is located on the border of Nepal and China, although the peak itself is located in China. Everest is surrounded by other equally majestic peaks Lhotse (8501), Makalu (8463) and Cho Oyu (8201 m).
Everest, by the way, is not the most difficult peak in the world, the palm belongs to Chogori, or K2 (8611 m), however, every year, Everest collects its terrible toll.
The first ascent to the summit was made relatively recently - in 1953, although there are disputes that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine reached the summit in 1924, but this will remain a secret, since Mallory and Irvine died. Dorge's body was found only in 1999, but Irwin's body has not yet been found.
I started talking about Everest for a reason, because this year my friend’s father went to conquer this peak and I, of course, asked him to take a few pictures. An expedition to Everest is like traveling to another planet and I was interested in looking at the photographs. I specifically asked the company Nikon for this purpose their first extreme camera AW100. All the pictures that can be seen in this post were taken with this very camera. In those harsh and extreme conditions, it is the best choice. It works in negative temperatures, you can control the camera without taking off your gloves, it has GPS and can withstand various physical activities.
I want to warn you right away that the photo was taken by a person who has nothing to do with photography at all, so the quality of the photo is not “glossy” and you shouldn’t demand from the baby AW100 pictures like you can from top-end DSLRs. I have selected some of the more successful ones and want to show you, with some comments from the author himself and the expedition member.

1.
Advance Base Camp (ABC) at an altitude of 6400m below the slopes of Everest

In general, anyone can try their hand at climbing Everest, although it is not cheap at all - 1,883,450 rubles and you need to have about 2.5 months in reserve. And even if you have a nest egg for this eventuality and you quit your job for this occasion, this does not mean at all that your ascent will be successful and you will remain alive at all.
The route of your trip will be something like this - Delhi-Kathmandu - Lhasa - Shegar - base camp - ascent to 8848. And be sure to buy a good belt, since the weight loss after the ascent is on average 10-15 kg. Do you want to lose weight? ask me how....the most effective way of all, and even the tan will be in 60 layers and you will be like a big skinny CHOCOLATE =)

2.
Taj Mahal Mausoleum in Agri (India).

3. Pedicab on the streets of the Indian capital of Delhi

For inquiring minds, you can fly to Kathmandu and go to Everest Base Camp on a more budget-friendly basis. 18-20 thousand for flights St. Petersburg-Moscow-Delhi-Kathmandu and another 5-9 thousand for a flight from Delhi to Kathmandu, and then join some group on the spot (then you decide).

4.

5. Buddhist deity on the wall of a stupa (temple) in the center of Kathmandu

6. Yogi Hermit

7. Buddhist icon - mandala དཀྱིལ་འཁོར

8. This is the view of Kathmandu from above.

9. Tibet (PRC) Shiganze - Tibetan monastery
“Tibetan monasteries are not just interesting tourist sites. They are functioning temples of Buddhism. Tibetans believe that life on earth came from Tibet. And it is in Tibet that there is a passage to the famous Shambhala, the place where it all began, a place that brings happiness and power. "

10. At an altitude of 4500 meters it is very harsh and there are heavy and gloomy views of the Tibetan plateau all around.

11. Prayer inscription on rocks in Tibet. Tengri village

12. Tibetans live very poorly, and far from the capital the conditions are not “fountain” at all
village Tengri. 4800m.

13. Tibetan children in the village of Tengri

14. Members of the expedition of the "7 Summits" club at the acclimatization climb at 5000m in the village. Tengri. Tibet.

15. Tibet is visible for thousands of kilometers...

16. This is how we saw Everest for the first time. It is so large that even mountains close to it with a height of 6-7 thousand meters seem very small

17. Everest from China - Tibetan Plateau

18. Base Camp of the expedition of the “7 Peaks” club is located near the Rongbuk glacier at an altitude of 5300m. Somewhere here, one of the greatest climbers and travelers, Reinhold Messner, took his notes.
In his book “Crystal Horizon” you can find the following lines:
“We are far from populated areas and have come to terms with the fact that we do not receive any mail. Now exactly a month has passed since we came to the Rongbuk Glacier and set up camp here. This is a beautiful, secluded, pristine place. Sometimes along the talus slopes from Nomads with yaks pass through the villages below."

19. Everest from the north, from the Rongbuk glacier

“The Rongbuk Glacier is so distorted that there is no point in trying to reach it in its lower reaches. Its ice bowl littered with stones now lies below me, like a grey-brown, storm-tossed sea. The question is, how to go further?” (R. Messner)

20. Yak caravans for carrying expedition cargo at the base camp. one yak carries up to 50 kg of cargo and is the main vehicle for transporting goods.

21. The expedition lasts 2 months for a reason; this time is needed to acclimatize the body and for the necessary training and activities. Altitude is a slow death for the body. For example, at an altitude of 7925 m, the dead zone begins - the air contains only a third of the amount of oxygen that is present in the atmosphere at sea level and the body of an unadapted person slowly dies.
Ice training on a frozen river near the base camp 5300m.

22. Expedition participants on the transition to the middle base camp 5700m

23. Mr.Everest North Face - the famous northern face of Everest is the highest and most difficult northern face of Everest. View from the Rongbuk glacier, 5600m. before Everest, “small” Changze 7680m.

"The great north face of Everest rises before me like a mighty pyramid, a pure, insurmountable wall of ice and stone. No climber, using all the pitons and ropes in the world, could ever come close to the summit in the monsoon by going straight head-on." (R. Messner)

24. Buddhist prayer flags on the trail to Everest. 5500m

25. Nepalese kitchenboy - kitchen worker at base camp. At a cost of 1,883,450 rubles, you can have a chef in the camp =) “Do you want yak milk or yak milk?”

26. Ice cliffs - seracs - near the middle base camp (middle base camp) altitude 5800m

27. Rongbuk Glacier

28. Everest and its northern wall are stern and majestic after a snowfall
Some facts and records:

“In 1999, Sherpa Babu Shiri spent 21 hours at the top, and this despite the fact that already at an altitude of 7925 m the same dead zone begins.”

"In 2001, the amazing ascent of Everest was made by the blind American Eric Weihenmayer. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all continents. "By climbing the seven highest mountains in seven parts of the world, I hoped to show people that goals that can seemingly unattainable, are in fact quite achievable,” Weihenmayer said in a statement.

“On May 21, 2004, Pemba Dorje set a record for the fastest ascent of Everest: 8 hours 10 minutes from base camp near the Khumbu Glacier.”

Does your child play GTA 5 at home? and meanwhile:
“On May 22, 2010, the peak was conquered by 13-year-old American Jordan Romero, who climbed with his father. Previously, the record belonged to 15-year-old Min Kipa Sherpa.”

In May 2011, Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhakta Kumar Rai set a new record for the longest stay on the summit - 32 hours

On May 3, 2013, 80-year-old Japanese Yuichiro Miura, having completed the ascent, became the oldest person to reach the summit of Everest. Previously, the record belonged to 76-year-old Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherkhan


29. On the right is the most beautiful peak of the Himalayan mountains - Pumori 7138m

30.
Do you love skiing and snowboarding and think you're a PRO?
Would you dare to repeat it?

In 1992, a French skier, Pierre Tardevel, skied down the slope of Everest. He skied down from the southern peak, located at an altitude of 8571 m, and covered 3 km in 3 hours. After 4 years, the Italian skier Hans Kammerlander descended from a height of 6400 m along the northern slope. He was at the foot of the “Roof of the World” after 17 hours.

In 1998, Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the peak on a snowboard.

In 2000, Slovenian Davo Karnicar skied down from Chomolungma.

In 2001, French snowboarder Marco Siffredi descended the Norton Couloir from the summit. The following year he disappeared while descending the Hornbein Couloir.

31.

32. Climbing a steep ice wall to the North Col of Everest. 7000m

33.

34.

35. Sometimes cracks in a glacier can only be overcome with the help of a ladder.

36. A minute of rest while ascending to the saddle. 6800m

37. The first high-altitude camp of the expedition on the North Col of Everest 7000m.

38. Expedition member Vitaly Simonovich with an oxygen apparatus on the climb to the second camp at an altitude of 7400m.

39. In the second high-altitude camp at an altitude of 7800 m, hurricane winds reaching 150 km/h tore apart the tents.

40.

41. We took the height!!!

42. Expedition participants on the descent at an altitude of 8000m

Unfortunately, this expedition was not without casualties. Everest has taken its terrible toll.
On May 5, on the trail near Camp 6400 m, an expedition member, Sergei Ponomarev, died unexpectedly, presumably from heart failure. He died almost instantly. Our condolences to family and friends =(((

At such altitudes you can die simply from a cold.

43. Chinese climbers lower an injured climber from a height of 7800m

It is very difficult to bring a sick person down from 8000m

44.
“The bodies of the dead often remain on the slopes of the mountain due to the difficulties associated with their evacuation. Some of them serve as a guide for climbers. Thus, the body of the Hindu Tsewang Paljor, who died in 1996, marks a height of 8500 meters and even has its own name - “Green boots" - after the bright green shoes of the deceased."

45. Expedition doctor Sergei Larin checks the operation of the oxygen apparatus on the North Col of Everest 7000m.

46. ​​Nepalese climber Pemba Sherpa reached the summit of Everest 5 times

47. Members of the expedition after conquering the peak at the advanced base camp. far right - expedition leader Alexander Abramov

The expedition is over. Not everyone was able to climb and visit this beautiful peak, but this is the law of large mountains.
I would like to say special thanks to Sergei Shevchenko (one of the expedition participants, an experienced climber and just a good person), and his daughter Elena for some technical assistance. Nikon for providing the camera.
And to all the other members of the Everest expedition group.

All photographs were taken by Sergei Nikolaevich Shevchenko, and 40 and 41 photographs were taken by Vitaly Simonovich.
Photo processing and preparation for publication is mine.
My text is co-authored with Sergei Shevchenko. Materials used from Wikipedia, Reinhold Messner's book "Crystal Horizon" and other sources.

Route

Lhasa 3800 - Shegar 4200 - base camp 5200 - ascent 8848 - base camp 5200 - Shegar 4200 - Lhasa 3800

We offer you an expedition to Everest with FULL SERVICE. The same as what Western companies provide (and even better in some respects). This level of organization of the expedition allows us to ensure maximum safety for the climbers:

We included in the price:
- Everest climbing guide - 1 for 5 participants
- High-altitude Sherpas - 1.5 per 1 expedition member, accompany you to the top
- Oxygen cylinders 4 liters - no more than 10 pieces for each climber and 4 pieces for Sherpa
- Expedition doctor who works up to the North Col
- Four full base camps 5100m, 5800m, 6400m and 7000m
- In camps 5800m, 7000m, 7800 and 8300 we also provide public sleeping bags and mats
- At the 7000 m camp the cook also cooks
- As well as 2 fully equipped high-altitude camps 7800m and 8300m including tents, sleeping bags, mats, burners, saucepans, gas cylinders, high-altitude food, oxygen cylinders, which are brought by expedition Sherpas.
- Free Internet, TV, DVD and sauna at Base Camp 5100m, massage and bar

Project Seven Peaks. Expeditions and travels of the 7 Summits Club.
For the 15th year in a row, we have been conducting expeditions, in which climbers from different countries are invited to participate. Thanks to extensive experience in organizing Himalayan expeditions, reliable partners and established relationships with local service personnel, we have been able to provide one of the best quality services for mountaineers. At the same time, our price is an order of magnitude lower than that of our American and Western European colleagues.
Everest, the highest peak in the world (8848 m), is the cherished dream of every climber. We help make this dream a reality.

We begin our journey in Tibet: we fly to Shegatse 3990 m - the Ancient capital of Tibet. We visit monasteries and adapt. The next day we are in the city of Shegar (Xegar, 4200m). We have a rest day in Shegara for acclimatization, and the next day we move to Everest Base Camp (BC, 5200m). After 2-3 days of rest in BC, we begin lifting equipment to the Advanced Base Camp (hereinafter referred to as ABC, 6400 m) with the help of yaks. After its opening, the next day the expedition members leave for ABC. A fairly comfortable camp, similar to our BC, is being set up here.

A little later, after our Sherpas establish Camp 1 on the North Col (7000m), we will climb there and spend one night there for acclimatization. After that we go down to BC and rest for 3-4 days.

At this time the Sherpas will establish Camp 3 (8300m). After May 15-17, climbers, as a rule, are in the ABC camp and begin to wait for a favorable period of weather to make the decisive assault. Having practically ascended to camp 3, you can make only one attempt; it will not be possible to restore it quickly and the supply of oxygen will be used up.
The advantage of our expedition is that it does not start too early and that it ends before June 1st. Late May is usually the best time to go weather-wise.

We are returning to Shegadze. From here the team goes home, taking with them a piece of Everest in their own hearts.

Before climbing Everest, we strongly recommend that you climb a simpler eight-thousander - Cho Oyu (8201m) - program
We plan to conduct this program every year. Write to us, call if you have questions.

Price for friends, relatives, sponsors, if they want to accompany you on some part of the journey:

to the North Col (7000m) - up to one month - 19,990 USD
to ABC (6400m) - less than one month - 9,000 USD
to ABC (6400m) - more than one month - 9,500 USD
to sun (5200m) - less than 15 days - 7,000 USD

Additional services

Necessary additions

Tips for guides and staff (important information!)

You won't offend your guides if you tip them for their good work.

Please leave a tip for the Chief Guide:

  1. Minimum - if everything went well, $220 per participant ($5 per day for 44 days)
  2. Usually - if you liked everything, $440 per participant ($10 per day for 44 days)
  3. Maximum - if everything was just super, $660 from each participant ($15 per day for 44 days)
You can tip other auxiliary guides and staff at your discretion.

Required documents

A passport valid for at least 6 months as of the end of the expedition.
2 photos for visa.
Chinese visa
We issue an invitation to visit Tibet
Medical insurance "mountaineering"
Permit - special permission to climb in Tibet

1. Be sure to check with our manager about the need to obtain a visa to enter the country

2. Be sure to make sure that there are free pages in your International Passport and that the passport expires in more than 6 months

Transport

Transport to BC
Meeting and seeing off at the airport
Required transfers
Bus and truck for cargo
A bus for the climbing team, a truck for luggage and service personnel, for moving to Base Camp and back.

Transportation of goods above BC

Yaks carry loads from BC to ABC
The yaks carry all the public and personal equipment of the expedition.
High-altitude porters (Sherpas) carry all the public equipment of the expedition above the ABC. They set up high altitude camps and bring in all the tents, sleeping bags, mats, food, gas cylinders, gas stoves, dishes, snow shovels and ropes.
Transportation of personal oxygen cylinders is carried out by high-altitude porters.

Accommodations

Hotel in Shigatse for 2 nights at the beginning and 1 night at the end of the expedition in single rooms
All hotels in Tibet are single rooms
In BC and ABC - 1 tent for 1 person.
High altitude camps - 1 tent for 2-3 people.

Nutrition

Breakfast and Tibet (lunch and dinner not included)
Meals in BC, Middle Camp in ABC and at the North Col - 3 times a day. Nepalese and Tibetan chefs cook on gas stoves in special kitchen tents. You can also get here any amount of hot water for washing or boiled water for drinking. We eat in spacious dining tents equipped with tables and chairs.

Food for climbing - we provide special dehydrated products. Meals for participants are prepared by cooks and Sherpas in high-altitude camps (above ABC/NC) on gas burners. Water is heated from snow.

Service staff

Expedition leader (Everest climber)
Doctor
Guides (Everest climbers) - 1 per 5 participants
Chinese liaison officer
Cooks from Nepal
Kitchen worker from Tibet
High-altitude porter (Sherpa) - 1.5 per participant
All high altitude porters have experience working on the slopes of Everest. They lift public equipment and oxygen to high-altitude camps, and also accompany expedition members on the ascent.

Medicine and Insurance

A doctor participates in the Expedition, who provides services in the Air Force and, in extreme cases, in the ABC (6400m). The guides are provided with the necessary first aid kit to provide medical assistance. But we also recommend that you bring your own first aid kit with specific medications.
Attention! A necessary condition for participation in the expedition is that the participant has special mountaineering medical insurance.

Physical fitness requirements

Participants must be reasonably well prepared to climb 8848m.
Of course, Sherpas help the participants during the Expedition. but everyone must ultimately be ready to independently move to the Top and descend.

Weather

The weather in the Everest region is very unstable. Every day we receive a forecast via the Internet and, based on it, choose the best period for acclimatization trips and ascent.

Estimated additional expenses

Food in cities
Additional nights at the hotel
Tips for Nepali kitchen staff are usually $200
Individual guide (with experience in climbing eight-thousanders) for the entire period of the expedition
$69,900 (including air tickets, visas, oxygen equipment, personal equipment, expedition salary).
Additional Individual Sherpa 19,900 USD

Communication, telephone, internet

Electricity:
In the Basic and Advanced Base camps we organize 220 V using
generator and 12 V via solar panels
It will be possible to charge any electronic equipment in these two camps in the evenings

Walkie Talkies:
On the route we use radio stations with a frequency of 144.00 Mg Radios
all Guides and Sherpas will have

Telephone:
There is GSM communication at Everest Base Camp (Regular mobile communication
at frequency 1800)
We organize local SIM cards with 3G from the local operator China Mobile. Also, the Thuraya satellite phone works well everywhere along the route.

Internet:
We organize local SIM cards with 3G
Bring your own computers, communicators, tablets and work on them 24 hours a day (with a break for lunch)