Below is a list of mountain passes in the western Caucasus. The category of the pass and the height of the pass are indicated in brackets. Difficulty categories of passes Ozerny Ridge, Imereti Mountain Knot and Shepsi Massif
Travel time from border to forest border: 5-6 hours, in winter: 5-8 hours.
History and date of first ascent: the pass was first passed by Irkutsk tourists during an expedition to classify the passes in October 1970. The pass is named after the first letters of the members of the team that explored the pass: Bukhaltseva G., Egorov Yu., Pelageikin V.N., Kukushkin V. N. (director), Antipyev G.N., Nemchenko M.I.
Special equipment: main rope
The pass is one of the most popular and reliable passages through the GVH; it is often used to enter or exit the route in conjunction with the lane. Dinosaur (1A).
The pass is located in the right cirque of the main stream (Barun-Khandagai river). Approach to the lake located at the foot of the lane. A dinosaur walks along a stream along screes and swamps, overcoming moraines. Above the lake, you can continue moving along the bed of the stream flowing from the circus, or you can go sharply to the left (100-150 m, up to 25-30 ° to the moraine and traversing an inclined plateau composed of smoothed bedrock, approach the pass. The saddle is expressed quite clearly - This is an oval scree saddle, sandwiched by rocky peaks. The pass take-off with a length of 80-100 m and a steepness of 30-35° passes along a medium-talus slope and leads to the saddle. The duration of the climb from the forest border is about 2-3 hours.
The saddle of the pass is wide and scree. Tour in the center. Clearly visible p. SOAN, lane. Snezhny (1B), lane. Dinosaur (1A).
Directly below the saddle there is a rocky fault, so to descend you need to go to the right with a traverse of 40-50 m (read as a trail), and then down along a talus couloir sandwiched by rocks. The steepness of the couloir is 25-30°, the length is about 100 m. And further to the lake, located at the bottom of the circus along a long scree slope (about 400 m, up to 35-40°). The duration of the descent is about 1 hour.
From under the pass, move along the moraines along the right stream, to the forest border for about 40-50 minutes.
From the side of the river Bilyuta Pass is located on the left (along the way) between the peaks almost at the closure of the circus. The saddle is trapezoidal, clearly expressed.
In winter, the approach to the pass is on skis. The approach and ascent to the pass itself is practically not dangerous for avalanches. When reaching the saddle, stick to the scree on the left (as you go).
The descent and traverse towards Bilyuta is potentially dangerous for an avalanche. Movement here must be carried out in compliance with all avalanche safety measures along the rocks.
The rollout from under the pass is also potentially dangerous for an avalanche - there have been cases of powerful side avalanches almost in the forest zone.
The time to pass the pass in winter may increase by 1-2 hours.
Description provided by L.E. Streluk.
It’s not enough to know the categories of passes, you need to feel them. On a non-categorical one, you calmly walk along a path up the mountain, then down the mountain, a sort of walking tour. 1A is the simplest of the categories - self-insurance is enough. This is when you insure yourself - with an alpenstock or, since with a backpack our jumping ability and mobility suffer greatly. Well, constant attention - every foot step needs to be thought out, taking into account the slippery surface, and “live” stones and moving powder. On more difficult passes you need knots, harnesses and railings that are so carefully trained.
Emotions are also important in the mountains. With heavy workloads, people are not so kind; some hold back anger, others hold back tears. And then you watch a video of another group - a girl climbs a rope and smiles. - Why is she without a backpack? “I couldn’t, the boys lifted her up for her.” And he smiles, but when you couldn’t carry your backpack you didn’t want to smile at all.
Knees are a weak point, but not for everyone. The load on them is large, especially on the descent, and some wrap their knees with elastic bandages for prevention. Others suffer from hip joints and this is worse - you can’t wrap them up anymore.
There is one more trouble that you can encounter - a sprained ligament in the foot. Neither life-saving measures nor caution help - when you, along with a 16-kilogram person, are literally blown away by the wind while moving through the slippery valleys of overflowing streams, you can get such trouble that you will feel even six months after the hike.
Star means a possible increase in the category of the pass depending on the conditions of passage.
Exclamation sign means increased avalanche danger.
"Khibiny autumn" - November, "Khibiny winter spring" - December-April.
The classifier was created by Konstantin Beketov.
Name | height | summer | autumn | winter spring | the pass connects... |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Academic | 1075 | 1A | 1B | 1B | the first right tributary of the Kuniyok river is the Tulyok river |
Aku-Aku | 440 | n/a | 1A | n/a | Yumyekorruai stream - left tributary of the Goltsovka river |
Arsenyev East | 1030 | n/a | 1A! | 1A! | Fersman creek - eastern source of Meridianny creek |
Arsenyeva Western | 1000 | 1A | 1B! | 1B! | Chilmana stream - center. source of the Meridianny stream |
Nameless | 925 | 1B | 1B! | 1B! | Tulyok r. - Kukisyok r. |
Petrel | 1080 | 2A | 2A*! | 2A*! | source of the Mal. Belaya river - Kuniyok river |
Question | 940 | n/a | 1A | 1A* | stream flowing from Geographov Lane to the southwest - nameless lake in the southwest circus of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge |
Vortkeywave | 750 | n/a | 1A! | 1A! | Tulyok river - Kirov mine |
High | 1125 | 1A | 1B! | 1B! | source of the Kaljok river - southern circus of the city of Central Lyavochorr |
Geographers | 880 | 1A | 1A | 1A | industrial zone Apatity - lake Mal.Vudyavr |
Gorely (Waterfall Valley) | 400 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Takhtaryok river - next. to the south there is a stream; at the edge of the forest |
Gury East (Nyorkpahk East) | 680 | n/a | n/a | n/a | |
Gury Western (Nyorkpahk Western) | 650 | n/a | 1A | 1A | Koashva quarry - Tymshasuaiv stream |
Deniskina Joy | 680 | 1A | 1A | 1A | Nephelinovy creek - Zvezdochka creek |
Star | 300 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Zvezdochka creek - Yumekorruay creek |
Impulse (South Yumjekorr) | 840 | 1A | 1A | 1A | Nephelinovy creek - left tributary of Meridianny creek |
Canyon | 680 | 1A | 1B | 1A | Medvezhiy Log stream is the next stream to the south; in the back shoulder of V. Chilman |
Cornice 1 to 4 | 1020 | 1B* | 2A | 2A! | circus Shchel lane - Gakmana stream |
Cornice 5 | 1010 | 1B | 2A | 2A! | circus lane Shchel - source of the Vuonemyok river |
Disaster Vostochny (Takhtarvum) | 920 | 1B | 2A! | 2A! | left tributary of the Mal. Belaya river - the next stream to the southeast of the Takhtaryok stream |
Disaster Western | 900 | 1B | 2A! | 2A! | left tributary of the Mal. Belaya river - Takhtaryok stream |
Cross (Rocky) | 1005 | 1B* | 2A! | 2A! | circus of the Fersman lane - circus of the sources of the Petrelius stream |
Cookiesvum | 480 | n/a | n/k! | n/k! | Kuniyok river - Kukisjok river |
Partridge | 430 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Tulyok river - Kaskasnyunyok river, west of Rypnetsk |
Loparsky | 644 | n/a | 1A | 1A | Kirov mine (Loparskaya river) - Tulyok river |
Lyavochorr Northern | 700 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Severnaya Lyavoyok river - Perevalnaya river |
Lyavochorr Central | 925 | 1B | 1B!* | 1B!* | North Lyavoyok river - Kaljok river |
Lyavochorr South | 1090 | 1A | 1B | 1B | Kaljok river - Lyavoyok river |
Mannepahk | 790 | n/a | 1A | 1A | tributary of the Mannepahk river (Indivichvumyok) - Mannepahkuay river |
Marchenko (Kuelporr) | 670 | n/a | 1A | 1A! (cornice!) | 3rd right tributary of the Kuniyok river - Risjok river |
Namuayw | 520 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Kaljok river - Mayvaltayok river |
Ridiculous | 760 | n/a | 1A | 1A! | Mal.Belaya river - stream, trail north of the Takhtaryok river; east of Khibiny |
November | 790 | 1A | 1A* | 1A* | right tributary of the Mal. Belaya river - stream, next south of the Medvezhiy Log stream |
Deceptive | 563 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Kaljok river - Obmannaya river |
Deer (Random) | 730 | 1A | 1B* | 1B | middle course of Kaljok - middle course of Maivaltajok |
Eagle | 1100 | 2A | 2A*! | 2A! | Petrelius stream - Fersman stream |
Parthomporr | 533 | n/a | n/a | n/a | middle course of Kaskasnyunjok - Maivaltayok river |
Partomchorr Northern | 840 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Lyavoyok river - Mayvaltayok river |
Partomchorr South | 770 | n/a | 1A | 1A | Lyavoyok river - North Kaskasnyunyok river |
Petrelius East | 883 | 1A | 1B | 1B | |
Petrelius Western | 840 | n/a | 1B | 1A | Mal. Belaya river - Petrelius stream |
Midnight | 1100 | 2A-2B | 2B! | 2B! | "Fersman Circus" - northern circus in Chasnachorr; along the couloir to glacier No. 2 |
Postman | 600 | n/a | 1A | 1A | Medvezhiy Log creek - Nephelinovy creek |
Putellichorr | 780 | 1A | 1B | 1B | Kuniyok river - left tributary of the Basseynaya Kuna river |
Rainbow | 600 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Lake Komarinoye - Tulilukht Bay; east of Njorkpahk |
Ramsay | 800 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Mal.Belaya river - Poachyok stream |
Rischorr Northern | 900 | n/k-1A | 1A | 1A | Kaskasnyunyok river (Marakotova Abyss gorge) - north. source of the Risjok river |
Rischorr South | 890 | n/a | 1A | 1A | Kaskasnyunyok river (Witches Gorge) - south. source of the Risjok river |
Wallepahka Saddle | 600 | n/a | 1A | 1A | tributary of the Obmannaya river - Kaljok river |
Seven Samurai | 1050 | 1B | 2A! | 2A! | Meridianny stream - northern circus in Chasnachorr; through the spur |
Swaluive East | 560 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Kaljok river - Mayvaltayok river |
Swaluive Western | 640 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Kaljok river - Mayvaltayok river |
Takhtar | 1120 | 1B* | 2A*! | 2A*! | circus of the left side of the valley of the Mal. Belaya river - Zap. Poachyok stream |
Takhtarvum (Ravine Takhtarvumchorr) | 955 | 1B | 2A | 2A! | left tributary of the Mal. Belaya river - the first stream south of the Takhtaryok stream |
Crack | 960 | 2A | 2A* | 2A* | option of the Cornice pass, actually through V. Bastion |
Umbozersky | 527 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Partomyok river - North Kaskasnyunyok river |
Skalnoye Gorge | 600 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Kirovsk city (Bol. Belaya river) - stream. from Geographov Lane |
Fersman | 980 | 1B | 2A* | 2A | manual Meridionalny - stream. Fersman |
Chasnachorr | 1130 | 1B | 1B*! | 2A! | circus of Fersman lane - the first left tributary of the Petrelius stream |
Chilman | 790 | n/a | 1A | 1A | manual Chilmana - left source of the Medvezhiy Log stream |
Chorgorr Northern | 1020 | 1A | 1B! | 1B! | Kuniyok river - Indivichvumyok river (Mannepahk) |
Chorgorr South | 850 | n/a | 1B | 1A | Kuniyok river - Chasnayok stream |
Khibinpakhkchorr gap (North-South) | 780 | 1A | 1B | 1B | left tributary of the Goltsovka river - Yumiekorruai stream |
Eveslogchorr gap | 820 | 1B | 1B*! | 1B*! | tributary of the Tulyok River - Vuonemyok River |
Eveslogchorr East | 810 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Vuonnemyok river - Tymshasuaiv stream |
Eveslogchorr Western | 900 | n/a | 1A | 1A | tributary of the Tulyok River - Vuonnemyok River |
Eveslogchorr Central | 900 | 1B | 1B*! | 1B*! | Ave. tributary Ave. tributary of the Tuljok river - Vuonnemyok river |
Yuksporlak | 674 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Vuonnemyok river - Yuksporryok river |
Yumjekorr | 700 | n/a | n/a | n/a | Yumiekorruay creek - left tributary of the Meridianny creek |
The most difficult section |
Number of insurance points |
Transition time |
|
n/a | |||
Scree and rocky slopes up to 30 degrees; glaciers up to 15 degrees |
Few hours |
||
Snow and scree clones up to 45 g, light rocks |
No more than 1 day |
||
Snow, ice, rock slopes up to 45 degrees, ice falls |
No more than a day |
||
Snow, ice, rock slopes over 45 degrees, ice falls, wall sections up to 15 meters |
At least 24 hours |
||
Snow, ice, rock slopes up to 65 degrees, ice falls, wall sections up to 2 pitches |
|||
Snow, ice, rock slopes over 60 degrees, ice falls, wall sections more than 2 pitches |
At least two days |
By numbering you can find the pass on the map of the Western Caucasus, which is presented in the Maps section, or vice versa, when planning a hike on the map, see which passes are where.
1. Southern Dolomites (1A, 3397)
1a. Deer trail (1A, 3306)
2. 40th anniversary of the TASSR (1B*, 3328)
2a. Tatarsky Northern (1B, 3424)
3. Northern Dolomites (1B, 3444)
4. Okhotnichy (Dolomites) (1A, 3200)
5. Kichkinekol Maly (1A, 3204)
6. Chat Uzunkolsky (1A, 3311)
7. Talychat (Tallychat) (2A*, 3326)
7a. Talychat North (Roshen) (2A*, 3400) http://www.tourclub.kiev.ua/content/view/122/9/
7b. Deceptive (Talychat Western according to V. Lyapin) (1B, 3294)
8. Kichkinekol Medium (1B*, 3264)
9. Chungurjar (1B, 3350)
10. Science (2A, 3450)
11. Safety precautions (TB) (1B, 3352)
12. Gift (2A*, 3519) (according to Lyapin - Podarok Yuzhny)
13. Peretotny (1A, 3242)
14. Instructor's (1B, 3362)
15. Chungur East (2A, 3389)
16. Talychkhan Western (1B*, 3345)
17. Talychkhan Middle (2A-2B, approx. 3450)
18. Talychkhan Central (2A, 3415)
19. Talychkhan East (2A, 3346)
20. Talychkhan horn (2A*, 3423)
21. Manchhap Western (2A, 3278)
22. Manchhap East (1B, 3315)
23. Chope Verkhniy (1A*, 2919)
24. Chope (1A, 2597)
25. ACT (Achauchat, Azov CT) (2A, 3441)
25a. ACT (Achauchat, Azov CT) Skalny (2A, 3500?)
26. Burevestnik Yuzhny (1B, approx. 3420)
27. Burevestnik Severny (1B, approx. 3430)
28. Electric Yuzhny (1B, 3263)
29. Electrician (1A, 3177)
30. Neftyanik (1A, 3193)
31. Panoramic South (1A, 3268)
32. Panoramic North (1A, 3179)
33. Chiper Ice East (2B, 3346)
34. Chiper Ice (1B, 3218)
35. Chiper False (1B, 3267)
36. Chiper-Karachay (1A, 3285)
37. FAFT (1B*, 3387)
38. Kichkinekol Vostochny (1A*, 3367) / Svetly (1B*, ~3400) (I. Grekov, KPI Globus tourist club http://www.tkg.org.ua/node/18995) / Welders (1A, 3380) (T. Zaritskaya, 2009, )
39. Kichkinekol saddle (1B, 3546)
40. Ullukam South (1A, 3429)
40a. Ulukam North (1A, 3314)
41. Nenskra West (1B, 3272)
42. Kherson Division (1B, 3303)
43. Nenskra Central (1B, 3328)
44. Baby (1B, 3336)
45. Nenskra East (Triple) (1B, 3301)
46. Four fools (1B, 3448)
47. Azau (1A, 3428)
48. 40th anniversary of the Komsomol (2A, 3489)
49. Hasanhoysürulgen South (1B, 3493)
50. Hasanhoysürulgen North (1B, 3471)
51. Hotyutau (1A-1B, 3546)
52. Filter (Burevestnik) (3A, 3500)
53. Twins (Communist) (3A*, 3500)
54. Chocolate (2B*, 3400)
55. Irchat (2A, 3311)
56. Dalar (1B*, 3291)
57. Myrdy (1B, 3250)
58. Saken-Dalar (1B, 3103)
59. Dalar South (1B*, 3381)
60. Saken (1B*, 3200)
61. Marchichi (Margichi) (1B?, 3200?)
61a. Memul (1A, 3023)
61b. Sharai (1B*, 3150)
61c. Okrila (1B, 3100)
62. "Saken South" (1B*, 3297)
63. Belova (Tskhvandyr) (2A, 3199)
64. Myrdy-Saken (2B, 3248)
65. Voronezh (3A*, 3756)
66. Aktobe (1B, 3250)
67. Gwandra Malaya (1B, 3270)
68. Karabashi (2A, 3400)
69. Pyramid (2A, 3400)
70. Ak Yuzhny (1B, 3400)
71. Ak Severny (1A*, 3454)
72. Aktur East (1B, 3483)
73. Aktur Western (1B, 3400)
74. Aktur (1A, 3300)
75. "Akkyshtyk" (2A?, 3400?)
75a. 300th anniversary of the Russian fleet (2B*, 3538)
76. Jalpakkol South (1A, 3358)
77. Jalpakkol North (1A, 3400)
78. Jalpakkol Central (1B, 3493)
79. n/k
80. Belyaeva (1B, 3471)
81. Cherenkol (1A*, 3300)
82. Outlook of Myrda (1A, 2900)
83. Trident (1A, 3300)
84. Mao (Maysky) (1A, 3551)
85. Dream (1B?, 3550?)
86. Plevako (1B, 3500)
87. "Plevako Northern" (2A, 3500)
88. "Plevako Vostochny" (1A, 3400)
89. "Mursaly-Cherenkol" (1A?, 3252)
90. Sports club MEPhI (2A, 3550)
91. Nevsky (2A, 3500)
92. Mursaly (1B*, 3525)
93. Traverse (1A, 3400)
94. Kursho (1B*, 3381)
95. Knife (1A, 3268)
96. Crocus (2A*, 3410)
97. Leningradets (1B, 3446)
98. Peacock (1B, 3350)
99. "Northern Peacock" (1A?, 3160)
100. Sunny (1B, 3322)
101. "Nozhu Northern" (1A, 3300)
102. Kertmeli-Uchkulanichi (1A*, 3300)
103. Kertmeli-Uchkulanichi North (1A, 3300)
104. Red scree (1A, 3300)
105. Rusty (1A, 3400)
106. Kyzylkol-Kertmeli (1B, 3350)
107. Kyzylkol-Kertmeli False (1B*, p.o., 3300)
108. Suicidal (1B*, p.o., 3350)
109. Ozerny (1A, 3200)
110. Idle (1A, 3180)
111. "Mursaly-Uchkulanichi" (1B, 3190)
112. Tyrmen (1A, 3350)
113. "Tyrmen Upper" (1B?, 3400?)
114. "Tyrmen-Chkhurbashi" (n/k, 3200)
115. "Chkhurbashi-Ekibekaras" (1A, 3300)
116. "Ekuch" (Ekibekaras-Uchkulanichi) (1B?, 3400?)
117. "Mursaly-Uchkulanichi Northern" (1B?, 3300?)
118. Tikaush (2B, 3426)
119. Murzuk (2A, 3208)
120. Gwandra-Saken (1B, 3417)
120a. Andarhua (1B, 3076)
121. Irene (I. Stepanova) (2B*, 3523)
122. Bondarenko (Globus) (2A, 3467)
123. Kichkinekol Western (2A, 3400)
123a. Viktor Tsoi (3A*, 3278)
124. Gondarai (1A*, 2938)
125. Spartak (2A, 2987)
126. Klych-Gwandra Western (1B, 3069)
127. Klych-Gwandra East (1B, 3050)
128. Gondarai-Klych (1B, 3220)
129. Gondarai-Nahar (1B, 3196)
129a. ~2A
130. Turov (1B, 3237)
131. “Zakyllachat” (2A??, 3300?)
132. Jubilee Naharsky (1B, p.o., 3350)
133. Kyiv?? (1B, p.o., 3400)
133b. Kyiv?? ~2B-3A
133v. "Nakharskaya Gap" (3B, ~3600)
134. Needle (3A, 3450)
134a. "Rocky Naharsky" (~3A, ~3450)
135. Mirror (2B*, 3500) (p/p M. Golubev, 2011)
136. Female (Assumption) (1B, 2984) // from the east there is a difficult ravine, possibly on 2B
137. Domashny (Chegetchat) (1A, 2963) // from the east there is a difficult ravine, possibly at 2A
138. Nahar (n/k, 2885)
139. Nahar Western (1A, 3069)
140. Chauluchat South (2A, 3189)
140a. Bulgar (3A, 3230)
141. Klukhor East (2A, 3292)
142. Klukhor (n/k, 2782)
143. Chauluchat (2A, 3163)
144. Kichi-Muruju South (1A, 3144)
145. Kichi-Muruju (1A, 3136)
146.
147. Saddle 3509 (3A-3B, climbed radially from the west by A.I. Safonov in 2010, 3509 m)
147a. about 2B
148. Kichi-Muruju Northern False (2B, 3550)
149. Kichi-Muruju North (2B, 3502)
150. Saddle (1B, 3402)
151. Mironova (2A, 3586)
152. Daut Western (2A, 3475)
153. "Northern Saddle" (1B, 3386)
154. Kasaeva Osmana (2B, 3497)
155. Daut (2A*, 3400)
156. Dautskaya Gap (2A*, 3350)
157. Knot (1B, 3294)
158. Salamander (1B*, 3350)
158a. Angel (1B, 3220)
159. Neftyanik (1B, 3303)
160. Spark (1B*, 3387)
160a. Trekhozerny Nizhny (1B, 3200)
160b. Trekhozerny Verkhniy (1B, 3300)
161. Iskrovtsev (1B, 3356)
162. Leaky (1B, 3300)
163. Ullukul Western (1B*, 3107)
164. Ullukul East (1A, 2986)
165. Long Scree (1A*, s.z.n., 3000)
166. Ullukul Nizhny (n/k, 2933)
167. Nadozerny (2A, 3453)
168. Panoramic 1st (1A, 2836)
169. Panoramic 2nd (1A, 2950)
170. Lokomotivtsev (1B, 3200)
171. "Ryndzhi-Age" (1B*, 3200)
172. Intermediate (1B, 3100)
173. Uchkulan South (1A, 3250)
174. Uchkulan (1B, 3200)
175. Uchkulan North (1B???, 3200)
176. Karasu (n/k???, 2964)
177. Ybchik (n/k, 2542)
178. MEPhI East (2A, 3329)
179. MEPhI Western (2A, 3300)
180. ? (1A, ?)
181. Ullu-Muruju (1B*, 3341)
182. Muruju (1B*, 3263)
183. Panorama (1A, 3150)
184. Red Saddle (1B, 2984)
185. Interbumpy (1A, 3000)
186. Mezozerny (1A, 3000)
187. Panorama Western (1B, 3088)
188. Gedeyzh (1A, 3052)
189. MTILP (1B*, 3300)
190. Rynji-Muruju (1B*, 3400)
191. Lokomotiv (2A, 3356)
192. Peacock eye (2A, 3400)
193. Nazly-Rynji (1B, 3389)
194. Nazalykol (1A, 3302)
195. Nazalykol False (1B*, 3400)
196. Nazly-Rynji Northern (1B, 3400)
197. Dzholsuzchat (Jolsu-Chat) (1B*, 3400)
198. Garalykol (2A, 3450)
199. Granilshchikova (2B, 3500)
200. Nazaly-Garaly (1B, 3400)
201. Shumka (1A, 3200)
202. Talabashi (n/k, 2489)
203. Nazalybek (1A, 3300)
203a. Nazalybek Nizhny (1A, 3030)
203b. Walking (2A-2B, p.o., 3500)
204. Garalykol Northern (2B, 3410) settlement Karminsky Alexander Valerievich, 2010, Rostov-on-Don, description on mountain.ru in July 2011
204a. Kurumny (1B*, 3472)
204b. Rynji-Jolsuzchat (1A, 3200? m) Karminsky settlement
205. "Garaly-Daut" (~2A, 3250)
206. Dzhalkaush South (1B, 3150)
207. Dzhalkaush (1A, 3141)
208. Dzhalkaush Northern (1B, 3300?)
209. Kyshkhajer (1A, 3226)
210. Epchik (n/k, 3017)
211. "Epchik Upper" (1A?, 3200)
212. "Epchik-Kyshkhadzher" (1A?, 3200)
213. "Kuldun Western" (1A?, 3300)
214. "Kuldun Central" (1A?, 3300)
215. "Kuldun East" (1A?, 3300)
216. Klukhorkaya (2A, 2975)
217. Hackel (2B, 3362)
218. Khakel-Achapara (2A, 3240)
219. Khakel-Chotcha (2B, 3238)
220. Chotcha East (2B, 3125)
221. Chotcha (2B, 3161)
222. Achapara (3A, 3241)
223. Dynkina (2A*, 3250)
224. Anukva (2A, 3143)
225. Hetskvara (3A, 3244)
226. Hetskvara Western (2B, 3193)
227. Buulgen-Chotcha (3A, 3479)
228. Festival (3A*, 3650)
229. Overview (1A, 3022)
230. Buulgen (2B, 3450)
231. Buulgen-Ptysh (2A, 3331)
232. School (2B, 3183)
233. Dombay saddle (Fischer, Freshfield saddle) (2B*, 3633)
234. Chuchkhur (n/k, 2712)
235. White Saddle (1A*, 3118)
236. Musa-Achitara Krugozor (1A, 3012)
237. Dombaysky (2A, 3215)
238. Alluring (2A, 3261)
239. South Dombai Passage Lower (1A, 2779)
240. South Dombai Passage Upper (1B, 2852)
241. Dombaysky South (2A, 3300)
242. Military (2B, 3245)
243. Ptysh (1B, 2995)
244. Atsgara Ptyshsky (2A, 3394)
245. Akbek East (2B*, 3330)
246. Akbek West (2B*, 3495)
247. Ine (2A*, 3395)
248. Dzhuguturlyuchat (3A, 3614)
249. Truth (3A, 3395)
250. Popova Jumper (3A*, 3448)
251. "Amanauz South" (2A, 3510)
252. Amanauz (3A, 3455)
253. Sofrudzhu South (2B*, 3283)
254. Sofrudju (2A, 3494)
255. Belalakaya (2A, 3435)
256. Jessarsky (2B, 3642)
257. Chhaltadzikh (2A, 3236)
258. 40 years of Victory (3A*, 3400)
259. Saamova Igor (3B, 3400)
260. Erzog (3A, 3487)
261. Duke of the South (2B, 3550)
262. Erzog Nizhny (2A, 3210)
263. Zhukov Marshal Yuzhny (3A, 3650)
264. Zhukov Marshal Northern (2B, 3650)
265. Jalauchat (1B, 3046)
266. Square (1B, 3068)
267. Through (Window) (1B, 3076)
268. Sulahat South (1B, 3215)
269. Nogi Sulahat (2A*, 3350)
270. Sulahat (1A*, 3143)
271. Alibek (1A, 3168)
272. Kichi-Teberda Western (1A*, 3150)
273. Kichi-Teberda Central (1A, 3095)
274. Kichi-Teberda East (74) (1B, 3150)
275. 73's (1A*, 3148)
276. Crystal (1A, 3058)
277. Khuty (1A, 3178)
278. Khuty Upper (Five fingers) (2A, 3250)
279. Little Red Riding Hood (1B, 3300)
280. Ullu-Marka (2A, 3519)
281. Upper Mark (1A, 3300)
282. Spur (1B, 3297)
283. Baduk-Khuty (1A, 3131)
284. Baduk Traverse (1B, 3150)
285. Baduk (n/k, 3004)
286. Baduk-Khuty False (1B*, 3150)
287. Marka-Bashi East (2A, 3350)
288. Marka-Bashi Western (2A, 3350)
289. Aryuchat (1A, 2994)
290. Novichkov (1B*, 3100)
291. "Baduk-Khadzhibey" (approx. 2B, approx. 3200) (failed)
292. Hadzhibey-Marka South (2A, 3338)
293. Hadzhibey-Marka Central (2A, 3356)
294. Hadzhibey-Marka Northern (1B*, 3314)
295. Azgek Upper (1B, 3446)
296. Azgek (1A, 3168)
297. Gurpun (n/k, 2493)
298. Gurpun Verkhniy (1A?, 2780) (failed)
299. Educational (Dzhuguturlyuchat Azgeksky) (2A, 3440)
300. Kichi-Marka (2A, 3320)
301. Toguzkol (1A, 3230)
302. "Kichi-Marka Western" (1A*?, 3400?) (failed)
303. "Kichi-Marka Nizhny" (1A?, 3354) (failed)
304. "Sosnovy" (1A, 3280) (failed)
305. Muhu (n/k, 2764)
306. Kichi-Aush (n/k, 2732)
307. "Loop" (n/k, 3000)
308. Hatipara (1A, 2823)
309. "Bulls" (1A, 3000) (passage unknown)
310. Kyngyrchat (Kynyrchad, Kyngyr-Chad) (1А?, 3350) (http://forum.gknpi.ru/viewtopic.php?t=14)
311. Two-color (1A?, 3220) (http://forum.gknpi.ru/viewtopic.php?t=14)
312. "Kelchat" (Kelchad) (1A, 3170) (passage unknown)
313. Kelchat Western (1A, 3070) (climbed by Boris Plotnikov in 1996)
314. "Bald" (n/k, 2610)
315. "Achkhishtara" (n/k, 2800)
316. "Orta-Ghidam" (1A, 3200)
317. "Kishkit Nizhny" (1A, 3030)
318. "Kishkit Upper" (1A, 3050) (Kelchad according to the classifier)
319. Two-color Eastern (1A?, 3180)
320. To the guides (n/k, 2980)
321. Kysy-Pasaut (n/k, 2770)
322. Foggy (2B, 3530)
323. Khamurza (2A, 3199)
324. Aksaut Small (2A, 3331)
325. Savitskaya Svetlana (2B*, 3200)
326. Aksaut Northern (2B, 3231)
327. Aksaut Nizhny (1A, 2867)
328. Aksaut Western (2A, 3263)
328a. Aksaut (Molodchego?) (2A, 3211)
329. Aksaut South (Aksaut?) (1B, 3050)
330. Bratsky (1B, 3290)
331. Chkhalta-Karach (1B, 3155)
332. Marukhkaya (3A, 3512)
333. South Karakaysky (2B, 3286)
334. West Karakai (2B, 3000)
335. Marukh (Marukhsky) (1A, 2748)
336. 810 Infantry Regiment (1B, 2961)
337. North Karakaysky (1B, 3095)
338. Khalega (n/k, 3027)
339. Chegetchat (1A, 3191)
340. "Ten Lakes" (n/k, 2993)
341. Khodyuka (n/k, 2981)
342. Kyzylaush (n/k, 2871)
342a. Chegetchat2 (n/k-1A, 2900)
343. Bugoichat False (1A, 3046)
344. Bugoychat (n/k, 2873)
345. "Bugoychat Northern" (1A, 2850)
346. Chigordali South (n/k, 2831)
347. Chigordali (n/k, 2752)
348. Chigordali North (n/k, 2500)
349. Arkhyz Sedlo (n/k, 2200)
350. Ozerny Arkhyzsky (n/k, 2620)
351. Chabakly (n/k, 2730)
352. Karabek (n/k, 2330)
353. Kizgych-Marukh (1B??, 3000?)
354. Kurella (2A, 2837)
355. Chvakhra (1B, 2954)
356. "Chvakhra South" (1A?, 2733)
357. Salynngan (1B, 3023)
358. Adange (n/k, 2299)
359. Adange Central (n/k, 2421)
359a. Adange South (n/k, 2379)
360. Kongur (1B, 2903)
361.3027 (1A, 3027)
362. Satkharo (1B, 2950)
363. Sunny Arkhyz (1B?, 3100)
364. Asyrkha (1B, 3050)
365. Kizgych (1B, 2997)
365a. 3100 (1B, 3100)
366. Kizgych-Chamagvara (2A, 3200)
367. Kizgych False (1B, 2988)
368. Zhdanovsky (Zhdanovtsev) (2A, 3100)
369. Chuchkhurskaya Gap (1B*, 3154)
370. Traverse Arkhyzsky (1B*, 3150)
371. Chuchkhur of Arkhyz (1B, 3063) / dangerous ram foreheads!
372. Bunny ears (1A, 3192)
373. Bypass Arkhyz (1A*, 2600)
374. New (1B**, 3000)
375. Kholodovsky (1A*, 3175)
376. Ak-Ayry (Slavutich???) (1B, 3150)
376a. Akmana (2A, 3250)
377. Ak-Ayry East (1B, 3100)
378. Kozhukhova (Topal-Aush) (2A, 3400)
378a. ~2B-3A, approx. 3500
378b. Sophia Window (1B, approx. 3100)
379. Sofia saddle (n/k, 2571)
380. Hope (1B, 3120)
381. Bashjol (Capital) (1A, 3048)
382. Köl'ausch (Steep) (1A, 2866)
383. Irkiz (Irkis) (1A, 2871)
384. Karajash (1A, 3022)
384a. Karajash East (1A, 2450) http://arhiz.yanval.ru/orel_dale#1
384b. 1B (http://arhiz.yanval.ru/orel_dale#gn)
384v. Gammesh-Chat (1B, 3035)
385. Eaglet (1B, 3024)
385a. Eaglet Additional (1A, 2400)
385b. 2A-2B
386. Tokmak (2A, 3076)
387. Chamagvara (2A, 3098)
388. Psysh (2B*, 3350)
389. Crab (Dog ears) (1B*, 3125)
390. Skeu (1B, 2762)
391. Skeu Nizhny (n/k, 2546)
392. Naur (1A, 2839)
393. Magana (1A, 2948)
394. Pshish (Pshish-Uzlovoy, Hillary)(2B**, 3350)
395. Magana False (2A, 3140)
396. Bear Arkhyzsky (1B, 2811)
397. Psyrs (1B, 3228)
398. Small Amanauz (Tornau) (2A, 3326)
399. Minsky (2B*, 3196)
400. Amanauz Arkhyz (2A, 3156)
401. Amanauz North (1B, 3195)
402. Azimba (1B, 3190)
403. Vorontsova-Velyaminova (1B, 3130)
404. Poachers (1A, 2831)
405. Duritsky (1A*, 3030)
406. Dorbun (1A, 2882)
407. Olezhek (Togliatti) (1A, 2903) http://veter.turizm.ru/36/a_nazva.shtml
408. Dukkabashi (1A, 2985) // was: Deer (1A, 2998)
408a. Separate (1A, 2820) // was: Klyukovsky (1A)
409. Deer (1A, 2922) // was: Ayulyu Upper (1A, 2917)
410. Ayulu (1A, 2874)
411. Temir-Kulak (Temirkulak) (1A, 3025)
412. Dukkah (n/k, 2637)
412a. 2600 (1B, 2600) (Bondarev, p. 114)
412b. Lateral Dukkinsky (1B) (R.Sh.Islamov, 2nd class on foot, 2003, MGCTK, This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.)
413. Phiya (n/k, 2162)
414. "Rechepsta-Phia" (n/k, 2796)
415. Atsgara (Atsgora) (n/k, 2715)
416. Chilik (1A, 2890)
417. "Atsgora Upper" (1A, 2726)
418. Azhoga (Urup-Azhoga) (n/k, 2648)
418a. Nadezhda Atsgarsky (1B, 2500)
419. Urup-Phiya (1A, 2646)
420. Zagedan lakes (1B, 2732)
420a. Shhuanta (1A, 2700)
420b. ~2A, but from the east it looks more logical than the Seventeen Pass
421. Zagedansky (Zagedan) (1B, 2783)
422. Gray-haired (Kirthua) (1B, 2846)
422a. Sosnovy Urupsky (n/k, 2800)
422b. Urup-Atsgara (1A, 2850)
422v. Goldmine (1A?, 2850?) // http://www.skitalets.ru/mountain/2006/arhiz_deshere/
422g. Sarastra (Saratov-Astrakhan) (1B, 2700) // http://www.skitalets.ru/mountain/2006/arhiz_deshere/
422d. Urup-Zagedanka (n/k, 2800)
423. Bogatyrsky (1B*, 3130)
424. Psykela (Penkela) (1A, 3040)
425. Waterfall Arkhyz (1B, 2910)
426. Gloomy (1A*, 3026)
427. Zaozerny (Simple) (1A, 2700)
428. Rechepsta (1A*, 2892)
428a. "Rechepsta Vostochny" (1A-1B, ca. 2850)
429. Kynhara (Adygea) (1A(?!), 2853)
430. High (1B, 3109)
431. "2986" (n/k, 2986)
432. Kyzylchuk (1B, 3046)
433. Seventeen (1B, 2956)
433a. Kyafar-Rechepsta (1B*, 2950) from Bondarev’s book
433b. ? (1B-2A, approx. 3000)
433v. Seventeen North (1B*, approx. 2900)
434. Pervomaisky (1B*, 2960)
435. Mylgval (Agur the Great) (1A, 2848)
436. Kyafar Upper (1A, 2853)
437. Kyafar (Kumbyzh) (n/k, 2798)
438. Placer Hill (n/k, 2200)
438a. Ilyasov (n/k, 2200)
439. Agur (South) (1A, 2968)
439a. Agur Northern (1A, 2970)
440. Fedoseeva (1A, 2987)
441. Double Arkhyz Southern (Turiy) (Agur tooth) (1B*, 2971)
442. Double Arkhyz Northern (Agur) (1B*, 2940)
443. Agur plateau (1B, 2986)
444. Grozovoy (1B, 2843)
444a. Tserkovny (Yu.Agursky) (approx. 1B*, 2900)
444b. Moskovsky (1A, 2865)
445. Barite (1A, 2809)
445a. Pioneer Arkhyzsky (1A, 2900)
445b. Arkhyz (1A, 2970)
446. Kyafarsky Small (n/k, 2730)
447. Beryuaush (Wolf) (n/k, 2600)
448. Rocky (n/k, 2500)
449. Zborovsky (n/k, 2300)
449a. Generovskaya Beam (n/k, 1600)
450. Observatory Arkhyz (n/k, 2250)
451. Kasaevsky (n/k, 2450)
452. Fina (n/k, 2650)
453. Laba (Labinsky, Mokry) (n/k, 2614)
454. Laba Zapadny (Labinsky Zapadny) (n/k, 2575)
455. Tsegerkulir (Tsargekhulir) (n/k, 2539)
456. Gvashthva Upper (n/k, approx. 2200)
457. Gvasthva (n/k, 2042)
458. Zegerker (not Magana!) (n/k, 2265)
459. Devil's Gate (2A, 2900)
459a. Devil's Gate (according to other sources) (2A, 2900)
460. Gribza (2A, 2850)
461. Komandirsky (2A?, 2900?)
462. Secret (1A, 2800)
463. Abgetski (Abgytskha, Abzgezgi) (1B, 2830)
464. Cold (1A, 2600)
465. Secretive (n/k, 2846)
466. 46 armies (1A, 2755)
467. 25th Border Regiment (n/k, 2709)
468. Vasilyeva (1B, 2850)
469. Alashtrahu (Allashtrahu) (n/k, 2723)
470. Chamashkha (n/k, 2052)
471. Sancharsky (Sancharo) (n/k, 2589)
472. Tsybishkha (Chibishkha) (n/k, 2084)
473. Sancharsky Verkhniy (1A, 2750)
474. Adzapsh (Sour) (n/k, 2497)
475. Adzapsh Nizhny (n/k, 2295)
476. White (Larue) (n/k, 2486)
477. Gentle (n/k, 2405)
478. Student Adzapshsky (1A, 2490)
479. Macitsko (n/k, 2500)
480. Friendship (Minvody) (Mironova) (n/k, 2463)
481. Chmahara (n/k, 2336)
482. Ahitari (n/k, 2371)
483. Makera (n/k, 2380)
484. Damkhurts (n/k, 2452)
485. Damkhurts East (n/k, 2351)
485a. 1A-1B - ?
486. Mamkhurts Upper (1A, 2642)
487. Mamkhurts (1A, 2525)
488. Mamkhurts-Makera (1A, 2403)
489. Seven lakes (1A, 2550)
490. Quiet (1A, 3012)
491. Additional Damkhurtsky (n/k, 2934)
492. Imereti (not less than 1B*, 2950)
492a. Maryinsky (Maryansky) (1B, 3100)
492b. Chocolate Imereti (1B, 3020)
493. Difficult (approx. 1B, 3000)
494. Kvata (n/k, 2350)
494a. Quata False (1B, 2500)
495. Lugansk (n/k, 2428)
496. Umpyrsky (n/k, 2528)
497. Magisho (n/k, 2880)
498. Adjara (Adjarian) (1А?, 2700)
499. Avadhara (Audahara) (1B, 28AChel00)
500. Tsakhvoa (1B, 2995) http://www.westra.ru/passes/Passes/3340, http://www.progressor.ru/outdoor/titancat/pass/
500a. Thirteen (1B, 2800)
501. Kardyvach (1A, 2823)
502. Tsyndyshkho (1A, 2750)
503. Chernomorsky (Chernorechensky) (1B, 2290)
504. Smidovicha (1A, 2749)
505. Mzymta (2A, 2850)
506. Cool (1A, 2765)
507. Pedestrian (1A, 2980)
508. ???
508a. Solid (~2A, ~3000)
509. Ahuk-Dara (n/k, 2050)
510. Kukhateku (Kuteheku) (n/k, 2400)
511. Loyub (1A, 2700)
512. Five (Five Loyubsky) (1A, 2592)
512a. Tourist Loyubsky (1A, 2815)
512b. Flower bed (n/k, 2700)
513. Kuban (Labinsky) (1A, 2745)
514. Four Aishkhinsky (1A, 2545)
515. Atsetuksky (n/k, 2130)
516. Krasnaya Gorka (Defense) (1A, 3100)
517. “Saddle with an obelisk” - from Marukh to Elbrus, p.92
518. Pseashkha (n/k, 2014)
519. Timukhina (3A, 2900)
520. 75 years of KGBZ (1B, 3150)
521. Marble (1B*, 2800)
522. Stroiteley False (1B, 2940)
523. Builders (1A*, 2800)
524. Aishkha (n/k, 2401)
525. Grigora (3A, 3150)
526. Crazy (1B, 2650)
526a. Nadezhda Agepstinsky (n/k, 2453)
526b. 24 (1A, 2555)
526v. Turya Gate (n/a, 2500)
527. Sinerechinsky (2A, 2750)
528. Shaposhnikova (2B, 2450)
529. Chugush Western (2B, 2700)
530. Eastern Chugush (Snow White) (1A, 2675)
531. Borchevsky (3A, 3100)
532. Vasilyeva Urushtensky (2A, 2600)
533. Camel (2B?, 2500)
534. Jitaku (1B, 2700)
535. Koshkareva False (1B, 2740)
536. Koshkareva (1B, 2700)
537. Urushten South (1A*, 2830)
538. Transcaucasus (1B, 2640)
539. Chugush South (1B, 2760)
540. Julia (1B*, 2500)
540a.
541. Nine (1A, 2801)
542. Chelipsi (1A, 2870)
542a. Gardener (n/k?, 2900?)
543. Alous (n/k, 1950)
544. Aishkha-2 (n/k, 1965)
545. Reinhardt (1A, 2280)
546. Lashipse (n/k, 2300)
547. Anchkha (Anchho) (n/k, 2031)
548. SAO (n/k, 2300)
549. Ark (1A, 2600)
550. Alan (2A, 2Bld in autumn, 3100)
In sports tourism, a pass is a logical place for a given route to cross the watershed line of a ridge. Thus, in sports tourism, a pass is not always the lowest and most accessible place on the crest of a mountain range or massif.
Many sports passes are not passed through the lowest place in a given part of the ridge simply because there is a simpler and safer path nearby (higher along the ridge), for example, bypassing difficult rocks and rockfall-hazardous sections of the route.
There are many known sports passes, which from the point of view of the average person look like madness: there is a simple convenient path across the ridge nearby, and tourists climb “sheer cliffs”. Such passes are passed with the aim of improving sportsmanship and preparing for more difficult hikes without traveling beyond easily accessible mountainous areas. A large number of such passes have been passed in recent years on the Kola Peninsula and the Urals.
Classification of passes
In sports tourism, passes are classified into categories of difficulty, which reflect the difficulty of the pass when passing it by tourists. The category of difficulty is determined by an assessment based on several features characterizing the degree of accessibility of the pass: altitude above sea level, steepness of the slopes, the nature of their surface, technical techniques used when passing the pass, overnight accommodation conditions. There are 3 categories of difficulty, each of which is divided into semi-categories A and B. Passes of category 1-A are considered the simplest, 3-B - the most difficult. Passes whose difficulty is below 1-A are usually classified as non-category. Passes, the difficulty of which can increase by half category depending on weather and other conditions (snowfall, sudden icing of slopes, etc.), are usually further classified with an asterisk. For example, 2-A*.
In the “List of classified high-mountain passes” and “List of classified mid-mountain passes”, for each pass its location, name, altitude above sea level, category of difficulty for different seasons, rivers and glaciers on both sides of the pass, features of passage, obstacles, and dangers are indicated. The category of difficulty for each pass is periodically re-evaluated by a specially created commission.
Table for assessing the difficulty of passes
Category | Nature of the path | Overcoming technique | Time to overcome. Number of points insurance, N. Section length, L. |
Required Equipment |
---|---|---|---|---|
1A | Simple scree, snow and rocky slopes with a steepness of up to 30°; Gentle (up to 15°) glaciers without cracks; Steep grassy slopes with possible rocky areas; Usually there are trails on the approaches. |
The simplest individual movement technique; Self-belaying with an alpenstock or ice ax. When crossing rivers, belaying with a rope may be required on the approaches. Spending the night, as a rule, in a forest or meadow area. |
Few hours N=0 L=0 |
Shoes with non-slip soles, alpen poles, safety belts (chest harnesses) and carabiners for each participant. 1-2 main ropes per group. |
1B | Easy rocks; Snowy and scree slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45°), and in some years, areas of ice on the slopes, usually covered with snow; Covered glaciers with areas of hidden crevasses |
The simplest collective technique: simultaneous movement in teams along slopes and closed glaciers. Hanging railings on slopes and at crossings. Overnight stays are possible on the border of the glacial zone. | No more than one day N L | Boots with grooved soles, alpenstocks or ice axes (1-2 ice axes per group are required), harnesses and carabiners for each participant. Rock and ice hooks (3-4 per group), rock or ice hammer. One main rope for every 3-4 people. |
2A | Rocky, snowy, ice slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45°); closed glaciers and simple icefalls. | More complex individual and collective techniques: alternating or group (railing) belay, using “cats” or cutting steps; A hook belay may be required. Overnight stays in the glacial zone are possible. | No more than a day N = 5–10 L 2–3 pitches in a row |
In addition to what is listed for passes 1B: ice axes and crampons for each participant, pitons in the required quantity and assortment. One main rope for every 2-3 people. |
2B | Steep (> 45°) snow, ice and rock slopes of medium difficulty, short (up to 10–15 m) wall sections are possible; icefalls of medium difficulty. | Application of the entire most common arsenal of technical techniques: railing or alternate belay, use of pitons; movement of the first on the ascent, and the last on the descent without a backpack, separate ascent and descent of backpacks; Rappelling down a rope. As a rule, overnight stays in the glacial zone are unavoidable. | At least 24 hours N = 5–20 L 3–5 pitches in a row |
In addition to the above for passes 2A: braking devices for rappelling and (preferably) clamps for ascent. Auxiliary rope, loops, expendable ends of ropes and hooks for rappelling. |
3A | Steep (45° – 65°) snow, ice and rock slopes of considerable length; wall sections up to 1–2 ropes in a row; complex icefalls. | The use of various methods of movement and insurance over extended areas, including the use of artificial supports, ladders, anchors, etc. Usually, preliminary reconnaissance and route processing is necessary. Tactics take on predominant importance. Repeated overnight stays in the ice zone are inevitable. Organizing a bivouac can require a lot of time and effort. |
Up to two days N = 10–40 L | In addition to the equipment listed above, rope climbing clamps; it is possible to use main and auxiliary ropes of increased length; It may be necessary to use ladders, bookmarks and hooks that are removed during descent. |
3B | The same as for 3A, but with a large length of complex sections, their varied nature or extreme complexity, including walls with a steepness of 60° or more. | The need for almost continuous group insurance for many hours and even days; special training designed to overcome this pass; excellent technical skills by all participants; impeccable tactics. There may be a lack of places to spend the night, which requires the organization of “sitting” or “hanging” bivouacs. |
At least two days N>30 L > 500 m, >10 pitches in a row |
Same as for 3A. You may need equipment specially prepared for a particular pass. |
Notes:
* Belay points mean places where the rope is secured and threaded using an ice ax, pitons with carabiners, rock ledges, ice posts, over the shoulder, lower back, etc., necessary for hanging the railing and for belaying the person going first on the climb and the last one on the descent.
* The presence of potentially dangerous areas (rockfalls, avalanches, ice collapses) does not affect the difficulty category of the pass and should be taken into account in the passage tactics and in the selection of equipment.
* To pass passes of any category of difficulty in winter conditions or with deep snow cover on the slopes, it is additionally required to have avalanche cords (20 m) for each participant and one avalanche shovel for every 2-3 people.
Report
about mountain tourism training
hike of the second category of difficulty
in the Western Caucasus,
committed by a group of tourists from the Serpentine mountain tourism club (Sochi)
from July 11 to July 24, 2008
2.8. Technical description of the route
Get up at 6:20. Partly cloudy. The group is in combat condition.
The Duritsky Pass was visible to us from the lane. Ak-Ayry Vost., now, accordingly, we see it from the parking lot.
We leave at 8:00. A U-shaped grassy scree saddle is visible directly in front of us. This is the false Duritsky pass, it leads to the valley of the Belaya River. Our pass is located to the left (to the west) and is hidden from us by a destroyed rock ridge. We follow the path along the bottom of the circus and climb to the next terrace of the valley. We stick to the left side as we move. In places where the talus emerges, tours are laid out. At 8:48 we stop for a 10-minute break on the next terrace. Having passed along a wide snow-covered chute formed by the main ridge and an old sheep's forehead at the bottom of the circus, we emerge under the pass takeoff.
The pass takeoff from the east is a conglomerate scree with a steepness of 30-40 degrees, about 100 m long, flattening upward. At the time of passing, there was a small snow patch at the top.
At 10:10 the group climbed to the pass. Duritsky Pass 1A*, 3000 m, located in the Arkasar ridge, connects the valleys of the Amanauz and Burnaya rivers (a tributary of the Bolshaya Laba), has an E-W orientation. It represents a wide (about 50 m) scree saddle of destroyed rocks. Tour in the middle.
Group on the lane Duritskogo 1A* |
In the east we see the dominant century. Pshish, to the right you can see the city of Chuchkhur, even to the right the city of Sofia. In the west the city of Dukka-Bashi is visible in the Arkasara ridge, lane. Dorbun, Burnaya district, B. Laba district.
A note was found on the tour from a group of tourists from the tourist club “Citadel”, Belarus, Brest, dated August 18, 2008, who were making a 2 class hike.
At the pass we eat chocolate, take a photo, leave a note and at 10:50 we begin our descent.
The descent begins in the southwestern part and consists of a scree 50 m long.
The slope is up to 40 degrees, the scree is small and mobile. Then there is access to a snowfield of the same steepness, which flattens out towards the bottom of the valley. Crossing a couple of snowfields and rocky screes, we take a break at 12:25 at the bottom of the valley of the right tributary of the river. Burnoy under the lane Dorbun.
We confer with the whole group about the future path of movement. There are two options. First: go down to the confluence of the right and left tributaries of the river. Stormy, then climb along the left tributary to the circus of the Poachers and Vorontsov-Velyaminov passes. Second: On the way down to the confluence, cross the buttress separating the right and left rivers. Stormy.
After consulting, we accept the second option, considering it more interesting and panoramic.
Then we go in a southerly direction, starting to traverse the talus spur of the ridge. Having climbed the spur, we find out that the ridge is a single ridge, but is cut by scree couloirs into rays converging at the top. We are located on the northernmost ray. The extreme southern beam faces us with a large number of simple rocky outcrops on a steep grassy slope, overcoming which will require considerable effort. Therefore, we climb up our ridge to the place where the rays converge. The steepness of the slope is about 20-30 degrees. We cross the snowfield.
We walk along the snowfield of the unmelted snow ridge and cross the upper part of the suction at the place where it flattens out and reach the ridge separating the tributaries.
We cross the ridge, which is a medium-steep large stone scree, and a panorama opens up to us with a view of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier and the valley of the river. Stormy. The ascent path to the lane is fully visible. Vorontsova-Velyaminov.
At 13:20 we stop for a break in this panoramic place to enjoy the beauty of the views. At 13:40 we begin the descent from the ridge, represented by a grassy scree slope with a steepness of about 30 degrees. At 14:00 we stop on a gently sloping grassy terrace where we stop for lunch. From the terrace we have a clear view of the lane. Poachers, where we soon notice D.V. Timofeev’s group.
At the parking lot there is a powerful stream where we get water.
We watch the group of D.V. Timofeev descending from the pass. When they descended below the level of our terrace, we established voice communication with them. After talking and learning the latest news, we return to our business. Because We have two half-walks left to go, during lunch we dry our things and rest.
At 16:35 we descend from the lunch place by traverse down the moderately steep scree to the lake in the circus lane. Poachers. At the lake at 16:50 there is a short break.
At 17:00 we leave along the inclined talus plateau of the retreated glacier to the right of the nunatak, separating the two branches of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier. We plan to go out to the left bank moraine, where, according to the description, there are places to spend the night. Steepness up to 15 degrees. Approaching the slope of the moraine, we find sites for three tents.
There is a stream nearby, so at 17:15 we stop here for a rest. As it turned out later, there were indeed many sites for tents on the ridge, but no water.
We set up camp and have dinner at 19:30. Partly cloudy. In the evening, tours approached the camp.
The group is in good condition.