Paris: green alley. "Green Alley" (Promenade plantée, Coulée verte) Neighborhoods of the green alley of Paris

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"When I'm suffocating in my apartment and want to escape, I go to the Promenade Plantée"
Alexia, a young Parisian

One of the most original ways to explore the western part of Paris is to walk along the Promenade Plantée - an ancient viaduct and the boulevard that follows it. The name of the park means “walk with trees.” This is a small world of peace of mind among the everyday bustle, a green corridor in urban areas. The Promenade Plante is called a Parisian miracle, inspired by the myth of the Gardens of Babylon.

A little history. The French are often innovators in landscape design. Just as Patrick Blanc invented without soil, so the Parisian municipality, for the first time in history, financed the reorganization of the railway track into a park. Trains ran over the 19th century viaduct for 90 years and service ended in 1969. The reorganization of the viaduct began in 1987 and 13 years later a park was opened here. Architect Philippe Mathieux and landscape designer Jacques Vergely worked on the project. The viaduct is 1.5 km long and the park is 4.5 km long. The arcade under the viaduct is used as an art space for workshops and shops of handmade things: ceramics, glass, furniture, musical instruments. Some parts of the park are enclosed, surrounded by tall buildings, while others offer breathtaking views. The promenade runs in close proximity to old and new residential buildings, and one even goes right through.

Some facts.“Walking along the Promenade Plante you will feel the bustling life of commerce and the tranquility of greenery in the same place.” Boston Globe newspaper The park has a type of layout. There is essentially one pedestrian alley running through its entire length, which periodically transforms into small areas with a central accent - be it a tapeworm or a raised flowerbed.

You can walk through the park in an hour, but to see all the beauty it will take 2-2.5 times longer. Half of the park, the so-called “art gallery,” is located on the viaduct, half is a ground boulevard. These two areas are separated by an arched bridge and a tunnel. The high-altitude part of the route is divided into several open sections with panoramic views and closed ones, some of which pass through buildings.

Gardening and more.“Pick up a good book and sit on a bench at the Promenade Plantée,” advises one of the Parisian Internet blogs. This park is a kingdom of birds and greenery. This is the best place for those who want to escape the bustle of Paris. Despite the fact that the path in the park is not very wide, both rollerblading and cycling are allowed here, although only in the ground part. The name of the park speaks for itself: when you get to Promenade Plantée, you plunge into the riot of nature. Surrounded by so much greenery in the center of Paris, you sometimes get the feeling that you can get lost in the forest. Suddenly it ends, revealing an incredible panorama of Paris. Hundreds of rose bushes, acanthus, lavender, thickets of bamboo, grapes, ivy, wisteria, cherry trees, maples, lindens... The park passes through two railway tunnels, from the arch of which ivy hangs, as if luring visitors inside.

Bamboo grows in such dense plantings that it seems as if it were in the Himalayan thickets. Due to the fact that the walking path is quite narrow and the bamboo is flexible, its trunks close together, creating the berceau effect - a French invention of the 17th century.

Above the “art gallery” there is a regular flower garden, the main decoration of which is openwork metal arches and columns entwined with climbing roses. The varieties are selected in such a way as to ensure the longest possible flowering period. In late autumn, a simple pattern of weaving metal arches adds variety. In spring the emphasis shifts to early flowering shrubs, especially bright forsythia. There are also dense plantings of decorative deciduous trees and flowering shrubs.

The axis of one part of this promenade is a canal framed by a row of linden trees and a lavender border. What an amazing sight! Fluffy bushes hang over the water surface, which reflects the blue sky and lilac-violet fragrant lavender flowers. According to one legend, God gave Adam and Eve herbs, including rosemary to support the spirit and lavender to delight the soul. They say that it drives away evil spirits, witches, and in magic it is used for purification, happiness and peace of mind. It is not surprising that this particular plant was used in the park in combination with the smooth, calm water surface of the canal.

The whole world is filled with aromas.
The shores smelled of the sea,
Meadows - chamomile and mint
And delicate clover stacks.

And I'll take a sprig of lavender
And I dream in silence.
She's like little news
Sent to me from childhood.

Not all parts of the park are dedicated to bright flowers and topiaries, because excessive decorativeness is boring, and the riot of colors tires. Therefore, there is a small part of the park dedicated to trees and shrubs with beautiful crown texture.

Finally.“If you want to make a city interesting, preserve everything old that you can. An interesting city - a mixture of memories and inventions. Past and present explain each other” article about Promenade Plante in the Boston Globe newspaper

For a long time, the Promenade Plante was the only park in the world built on the site of an abandoned railway track. But in 2011 they plan to complete the work in New York, which we wrote about earlier. There are also plans to reorganize the railroad tracks in Chicago and Philadelphia.

Zaviryukhina Maria
specifically for the portal
garden center "Your Garden"

The green alley, usually called Promenade plantée or Coulée verte in French (metro Bastille/Ledru-Rollin) is a great opportunity for tourists to get to know a lesser-known area of ​​the city from an unusual perspective.

Located in the area, a disused viaduct has been cleverly transformed into an elevated walkway and generously planted with a wide variety of trees and flowers. The alley begins south of the Bastille Opera, approximately in the same place as Daumesnil Avenue. You can get to it by going up the stairs or by elevator, and there are also several approaches further along the way.

The alley leads to the Reuil garden, then drops to ground level and reaches almost the outer ring road, from where signs lead to the Bois de Vincennes. A plan is now being developed to extend the alley to the Bois de Vincennes.

In total, the length of the alley is about 4.5 kilometers, but if you do not intend to walk along it to the end, walk at least the first part of the path, along the viaduct, which will take you only 20 minutes, and you will see the most wonderful surroundings - this is before Just noble old buildings, as well as the street below, which can be seen from a bird's eye view.

From here you can see even the smallest architectural details, such as decorative moldings or intricate cast iron balconies - all of which are difficult to see if you are at street level. The most unusual architectural design of the buildings here is the group of caryatids decorating the police station at the end of Avenue Daumesnil.

At the bottom of the viaduct, its arches have also been transformed into attractive art studios known as the Viaduct des Arts (Viaduct of the Arts) gallery. The gallery provides shelter for a variety of craftsmen: furniture and carpet restorers, designers, furniture and musical instrument makers, embroiderers, fashion designers and jewelers.

A full description of the gallery can be obtained at 23 Avenue Daumesnil, which houses SEMA (Société d'Encouragemant aux Métiers d'Art) - Society for the Development of Arts and Crafts (visiting hours Tuesday-Friday, 13.00-17.00, also on weekends during exhibitions , same hours). The viaduct ends approximately at the level of the middle part of Daumesnil Avenue, but the Green Alley itself (Promenade plantée) goes further, to the Reuil garden - a former freight station, now turned into a large beautiful round lawn.

The lawn is bordered by terraces and gazebos entwined with greenery, and picnics are usually held on the grass on sunny days. You can grab a bite to eat at the nearby open-air cafe, especially if you plan to walk further to the end of the alley. You can also pass by this garden altogether by crossing it along the arched wooden bridge located above it.

The next part of the path is Vivaldi Alley. The path here is not very interesting, as there are ordinary modern residential buildings around it, but if you go through the tunnel and come out at the other end of the old railway, you will have a beautiful view stretching into the distance, below the level of the adjacent streets with trees and flowers.

At this point the road splits into two paths - a pedestrian path and a bicycle path, with beautiful surrounding views, with old tunnels covered in ivy, eventually you will find yourself in front of a cast-iron spiral staircase. Climb the stairs or take the right-hand path up to road level, turn right onto the ring road and then left under the overpass. Turning right takes you onto the lively Guyang Boulevard and you will soon find yourself in front of the Bois de Vincennes and the Porte Dorée metro station.

The green alley, usually called Promenade plantee or Coulee verte in French (metro Bastille/Ledru-Rollin) is a great opportunity for tourists to get to know a lesser-known area of ​​the city from an unusual perspective.

Located in the area, a disused viaduct has been cleverly transformed into an elevated walkway and generously planted with a wide variety of trees and flowers.

In total, the length of the alley is about 4.5 kilometers, but if you do not intend to walk along it to the end, walk at least the first part of the path, along the viaduct, which will take you only 20 minutes, and you will see the most wonderful surroundings - this is first Just noble old buildings, as well as the street below, which can be seen from a bird's eye view.

From here you can see even the smallest architectural details, such as decorative moldings or intricate cast iron balconies - all of which are difficult to see if you are at street level. The most unusual architectural design of the buildings here is the group of caryatids decorating the police station at the end Avenue Daumesnil(avenue Daumesnil).

Neighborhoods of the green alley of Paris

At the bottom of the viaduct, its arches have also been transformed into attractive art studios known as the Viaduct des Arts (Viaduct of the Arts) gallery. The gallery provides shelter for a variety of craftsmen: furniture and carpet restorers, designers, furniture and musical instrument makers, embroiderers, fashion designers and jewelers.

A full description of the gallery can be obtained at 23 Avenue Daumesnil, which houses SEMA (Societe d'Encouragemant aux Metiers d'Art) - Society for the Development of Arts and Crafts (visiting hours Tuesday-Friday, 13.00-17.00, also on weekends during exhibitions , same hours). The viaduct ends approximately at the level of the middle part of Avenue Daumesnil, but the Green Alley(Promenade plantee) goes further, up to Ryoya's garden- a former freight station, now turned into a large beautiful round lawn.

The lawn is bordered by terraces and gazebos entwined with greenery, and picnics are usually held on the grass on sunny days. In a nearby open cafe You can have a snack, especially if you are going to go further, to the end of the alley. You can also pass by this garden altogether by crossing it along the arched wooden bridge located above it.

The next part of the journey is Vivaldi alley(Allee Vivaldi). The path here is not very interesting, as there are ordinary modern residential buildings around it, but if you go through the tunnel and come out at the other end of the old railway, you will have a beautiful view stretching into the distance, below the level of the adjacent streets with trees and flowers.

At this point the road splits into two paths - a pedestrian path and a bicycle path, with beautiful surrounding views, with old tunnels covered in ivy, eventually you will find yourself in front of a cast-iron spiral staircase. Climb the stairs or take the right-hand path up to road level, turn right onto the ring road and then left under the overpass. Turning right takes you onto the busy Guyang Boulevard and will soon find you in front of the Bois de Vincennes and the Porte Doree metro station.

Claiming to be the most original park in Paris, the Promenade plantée (Coulée verte) garden fascinates with its originality and unusualness. The thing is that it arose not so long ago on the site of a railway track, along which trains had been running for a long time. In turn, the railway line was laid on the site of the viaduct.

Quite quickly, the park, whose name translated means “walk with trees,” turned into one of the favorite walking places for Parisians and city guests. The efforts of architect Philippe Mathieu and landscape designer Jacques Vergely have turned this part of Paris into a truly green paradise, where you can escape the summer heat or spend pleasant autumn evenings surrounded by a colorful carpet of leaves.

Place for art

The Promenade Plante stretches for 4.5 kilometers: under the arch of the viaduct a unique art space has been created, which is filled with various workshops and shops selling handmade goods: ceramics, glass products, as well as musical instruments and furniture.

Therefore, you can not only spend your time in the garden with benefit for your soul and body, but also purchase an original handmade item made by French craftsmen.

Panoramas of Paris

The park is divided into several parts, some of which offer a beautiful panoramic view of the city, while others are surrounded by tall buildings, both ancient and modern. One of the promenade paths leads through the building, creating the feeling that you are in a fairy-tale world, where even seemingly unlikely things turn into reality.

Despite the fact that the park is small and can be walked through in an hour, a thoughtful inspection and a pleasant walk will require more time, because here you can observe a harmonious combination of the active business life of Paris with the leisurely passage of time among green trees and secluded corners.

Feel the riot of nature

The Plante promenade is divided into two parts: one is located on the above-ground boulevard and is intended not only for pedestrians, but also for those who want to ride bicycles or rollerblades, the second is located on the viaduct. The zones are separated by an arched bridge and a tunnel.

No matter where you walk, you can always find solitude and peace here, to hide from the city noise and everyday bustle. The riot of nature, manifested by dense thickets of ivy, hundreds of rose bushes, wisteria, lavender, acanthus, bamboo thickets, grapes, maples, lindens and cherry trees, transports park guests to a charming world of forest and harmony. While walking through the park, you will also have to pass through two railway tunnels, covered with ivy and mysteriously inviting visitors to look deeper.

Berceau effect in the Plante garden

The pedestrian paths in the park are quite narrow, which helped achieve in some parts of the park the berceau effect - a 17th-century French invention that involves plants (particularly in the Promenade Plante made of bamboo) growing and wrapping around an arch to form a covered living gallery that looks great and turns into the highlight of the garden.

Taste and color...

Another charming place in the garden is the regular flower garden, which is decorated with metal openwork columns and arches, entirely entwined with climbing roses. What is important: the creators of the park selected rose varieties in such a way as to ensure the longest possible successive flowering of these beautiful plants. But in the spring, all the attention of guests turns to the brightly flowering forsythia shrubs and dense plantings of trees.

The axis of the park is a canal, on both sides of which grow breathtakingly fragrant linden trees during flowering, and neat branches of lavender bushes lean toward the surface of the calm water.

Of course, not the entire park offers a riot of colors: there are corners in it where you can rest your eyes on the calm greenery of trees and bushes with a textured crown, indulge in reflections about life, or simply dream.

Solitude in the big city

The popularity of the Promenade Plante park is explained not only by its originality and bright colors, but also by the opportunity, albeit for a short time, to take a break from the constant movement of a busy city that has won the hearts of millions of people who return here again and again to breathe in the air filled with romance and touch the beauty!

How to get there

Promenade plantée is one of two names for this plant attraction in Paris. If translated literally, it would be “Grown Walk.” This is how it is, however, no matter how pretentious this phrase may seem. This, by the way, is one of the most hidden gardens in Paris, which not everyone is destined to visit. However, since you are reading these lines, be sure to go there!

The number one feature of Promenade plantée is that all the plants are grown along the old railway tracks. Coulée verte is perceived as a kind of “green belt” or “green ribbon”, as a place for unforgettable walks and delightful photo sessions. This ribbon, by the way, seems to “connect” the Gare de Lyon, Bercy Park and the entrance to the Bois de Vincennes. In general, if you visit this part of Paris, you will talk about your trip in a very interesting and enthusiastic way. And if you get there during flowering – well, in that case you can only be envious!

Where to look for Promenade plantée in Paris

• The main entrance is on the one hundred side of Avenue Daumesnil.
• Metro station: Bastille (Line 1, 5).