Mountains of Makhachkala. The high mountains of Dagestan have become a favorite place for tourism and mountaineering. What is in the mountains of Dagestan

In this material I bring to your attention a story about our trip around the Dokuzparinsky district.

The next point on our route was the Dokuzparinsky district. Having previously discussed all our actions, we left for Usukhchay, where Rakhman Gereev, the representative of the FLNKA in the Dokuzparinsky district, was already waiting for us.

As our main goal, we chose a visit to the highest mountain village in Europe - Kurush. Rahman provided us with transport in advance.

Dokuzparinsky district is the smallest Lezgin district in Dagestan in terms of area and population. It is located in the extreme south of the republic, it is here that the southernmost point of Russia is located - an unnamed peak near Mount Ragdan.

View of the villages of Tekipirkhyur and Kaladzhukh

The name Dokuzpara comes from the Turkic word “doqquz” - nine. This is exactly the number of villages that were part of the historical Dokuzparinsky free society, which was, however, located on the territory of the neighboring Akhtynsky district.

And on the territory of the current Dokuzparinsky district, the Altyparinsky free society was historically located.

Almost all the villages of Dokuzpara are located in the narrow valley of the Chehivac River. This gorge is bordered by the massifs of the Shalbuzsuv, Main Caucasian, Samur ridges, as well as the spurs of the Erysuv mountains, separating the Usukhvatsia gorge from the neighboring Adzhiakhur gorge, which already belongs to the neighboring Kusar region.

Kaladzhukh

In general, the area itself is notable for its extraordinary relief characteristics. The main part of the region's territory is represented by a deep gorge, and mountain ranges and peaks rise along the perimeter of the gorge.

Among them is the highest point of Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazardyuzyu) 4466 m, just to the southeast is Mount Ragdan. These and other peaks belong to the Main Caucasus Range.

Charaur waterfall falling from Erysuvo

Mount Shalbuzsuv is the second highest in the region and the third in the republic, its peak is at an altitude of 4142 m. Massive spurs composed of clayey shales and calcareous rocks extend from the mountain in all directions.

In the south-eastern part of the region there is the center of mountaineering in Russia - Mount Erysuv with a height of 3925 m. Every year the most avid lovers of extreme recreation climb this mountain. From the north, in front of the villages of the Dokuzparinsky district, the Gestinkil peak rises with a height of 2788 m.

The first settlement we meet upon entering Dokuzpara is Karakyure. Nowadays, there are two villages - a new and an old aul, located several kilometers from each other.

View of Kurush, Shalbuzsuv and surrounding ridges from Mount Erysuv

According to some data, already in the 3rd millennium BC, during the Bronze Age, the surroundings of Karakure were inhabited by people. Evidence of this is the huge area of ​​cemeteries surrounding the village on all sides.

In the center is the highest peak of Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazardyuzyu), on the left is Erysuv

According to historians, Karakyure was formed by the merger of several settlements - Yar-kyil, Chiuru khuyr, Usukh, Chieyar, Sutar avai khuyr and Uruk. The latter, by the way, was the residence of the Albanian kings. Tukhum Varazar still lives in the village today, whose name comes from the name of the Albanian king Varaz, who loved to vacation in Uruk.

Old mosque in Karakur

The remains of an ancient ceramic water pipe were found in the village. Karakure is a kind of open-air museum. Everything here speaks of its antiquity and greatness. After all, in the Middle Ages there was a large city here, an important center of Southern Dagestan.

Jerysów

It had at least 900 households. Considering that4-5 families lived under one roof, it becomes obvious that it was truly a densely populated city. After the terrible plague epidemic of 1689, only 60 households remained in Karakur. Nowadays, more than 1200 people live in the village.

On the site of an ancient Christian temple in the 10th century, the Arabs built a mosque, which was known throughout Southern Dagestan.

Carved door of the old Karakyur mosque

Unfortunately, in the winter of 2009, this unique mosque burned down. A few weeks ago, a new mosque was built with funds allocated by a native of this village, Suleiman Kerimov.

Old mosque in Karakur

The regional center of the Dokuzparinsky district is the village of Usukhvats I, located at the confluence of the river of the same name Usukhvats I into Samur. Historical chronicles testify to the events of the early 8th century that took place in this locality.

Clouds envelop Upper Dokuzpara

There are two versions of the origin of the name of the village. According to the first, the root “usukh” acts as a form of the verb “sukhun” (to stick, to stick). The fact is that the Usukhvats River during heavy rains pierces Samur like a bayonet.

The second version takes us back to the events that took place many centuries ago, when the Mikrakhians expelled the sons of Mukhtar Saijab, considering their lands theirs. As a result, these territories seemed to be stuck between Miskindzha and Karakyure, hence the root “dry”.

The first inhabitants of the modern village were people from the neighboring village of Karakyure. Nowadays, the population of the district center is about 2 thousand people.

From here we drove up the gorge. With every kilometer the altitude level became higher and higher. The road ran along the Usukhvats River. Huge stones and rock formations were visible everywhere.

Kaladzhukh

The main occupation of the residents of Dokuzpara is animal husbandry and agriculture. Sheep farming is especially developed in the region. Large areas are occupied by cabbage, sometimes even entire slopes are planted with it. Immediately after Mikrah-Kazmayar, the first thorough ascent began.

Kaladzhukh, an aul, immediately opened up to our eyes, a magnificent view of which we observed throughout the entire journey to Kurush. Kalajuh is located on the opposite bank from Mikrakh. The old village was located on the top of Mount Aga-akh.

The name of the village comes from the word “Kala” - fortress. And indeed, the old village was surrounded by powerful walls. The Kalajukh people always had a dispute with the Mikrakh people over land, as a result of which the village was taken by its neighbors. Many residents died, there were also those who fled - villages with the same name Kala in Azerbaijan and Rutul were founded by fugitives from Kalajukh.

Feast in the village of Tekipirkhyur

The modern village is a continuation of the old one, only located in the lower reaches of the historical village. The inhabitants of the village are the descendants of Tukhum Menzifar - the only Tukhum who did not leave his native land; as well as numerous immigrants from Mikrakh and other villages.

Having passed Mikrah, after a few kilometers we entered the village of Tekipirkhyur.

This is a small village that was founded about 500 years ago by a native of Syria, Pir-Hasan, who, together with his brother Pir-Suleiman, was buried on Mount Shalbuzsuv. There is a mausoleum of Pir-Hasan in the village, and there is also a ziyarat in the cemetery.

His grave is a place of pilgrimage for thousands of Muslims. Tekipirkhyur is a small village, the number of households in it barely reaches 60. It is located in a picturesque place at the foot of the Erysuv and Shalbuzsuv mountains. This is the native village of Suleiman Kerimov’s mother.

In Kurush

Further, behind Tekipirhur, Kurush was already waiting for us. It should be noted that we were very unlucky with the weather there. If in Usukhvatsi the weather was clear and hot, then after Mikrakh-Kazmayar it became cloudy and rained in places, which made it impossible to see the amazing views of the surrounding mountains.

Kurush

After ten kilometers of narrow serpentines, long climbs and steep cliffs, we finally reached Kurush, the highest mountain village in Europe and Russia. By God, this is a unique place. The people here are unique. Nature is unique. The air, plants, animals, birds - everything is unique.

Kurush children

Kurush in clear weather in summer with Yerysuv in the background

Kurush is surrounded by the highest mountains of Dagestan - Kichensuv and Erysuv from the east, Shalbuzsuv from the north, and the Main Caucasus Range from the south. The village is located on the southern slope of Shalbuzsuva, at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level.

Children playing football in the Kurus school yard

From the height of the village there are probably the best views of the mountains in all of Southern Dagestan. To the east of the village Yarusuv rises majestically. The highest waterfall in Dagestan, Charaur, falls from this mountain. The height of the fall is 250 meters, and the waterfall is two-stage - the height of the first stage is 150 meters, the second - 100. The Kurush people call it Charadur.

The air in Kurush is rarefied, through which the ultraviolet rays of the sun burn all year round. Due to the lack of oxygen, the faces of the Kurush residents acquired a characteristic blush, which distinguishes them from other local residents.

Kurush

Since ancient times, the main occupation of the inhabitants was sheep breeding; the vast alpine pastures - the only wealth of the Kurush people - contributed to this. Sheep farmers led a semi-nomadic lifestyle. Previously, during the winter, they drove flocks of sheep to Azerbaijan, covering hundreds of kilometers of roads through gorges, passes and ravines.

There are static data according to which in 1917 there were 72 thousand sheep in the village. It was in Kurush that the Mountain Lezgin coarse-wool breed of sheep was bred under natural conditions, the coarse wool of which is indispensable in carpet weaving.

Kurush greeted us with a bluish haze. As I already said, due to the fog and rain, we, alas, saw practically nothing. At a distance of over 20-30 meters it was no longer possible to make out anything. It is also worth mentioning the characteristic smell of dung, which is almost the main building material and fuel here. There were practically no people on the street. Only restless children played football in the school yard.

After walking around the village a little, we didn’t go too deep. We took a few shots and moved in the opposite direction.

That day we decided to stay overnight at Rahman’s house in Mikrakh. This is a fairly large village located on the left bank of the Usukhvats I opposite Kaladzhukh. This region is rich in arable land, hay meadows and vast pastures. There are many springs and streams here.

Mikrah

On four sides the village is surrounded by majestic mountains - Kichensuv; Yerysów; Nisinsuv (Noon Mountain); Ekunsuv (Morning Mountain); Shalbuzsuv and Gestinkilem.

We took a short walk around the village. Rakhman works as a teacher in a rural school, so he knows the history of his native village well.

According to folk etymology, the name "Mikrakh" comes from the words "mug" and "rag" (sun's nest). The fact is that when the sun rises from behind the mountains on the eastern side, its rays fall directly into the village, i.e. as if into a niche, into a nest. Hence “mugrag >> mikrah”.

Mikrakh is one of the largest carpet-making centers in Dagestan. Mikrakh carpets are distinguished by their quality and unique design; local carpet weavers are distinguished by the art of fast work.

Tekipirhur

This is a very ancient village. In 1994, local residents celebrated the 5000th anniversary of the village. However, the figure is, of course, overestimated. The first mention of Mikrakh dates back to the 2nd century AD. The antiquity of the village is also evidenced by numerous cemeteries, the area of ​​which is more than 20 hectares.

Ancient burials of Mikrakh

In the Middle Ages, Mikrakh was a city that was the craft, trade and cultural center of the region. During the early Middle Ages, for many years Mikrakh was a stronghold of the Khazars and the city did not accept Islam, offering fierce resistance to the Arabs. However, the combined forces of Arabs and Akhtyns took the village by force.

In a later period, the village was completely restored, grew and regained its former significance. In 1630 it became the administrative center of the newly formed Altypara society. In the 19th century, Mikrah was the administrative center of the Dokuzparinsky district of the Samur district.

Rahman showed us the local ziyarat. As well as numerous Christian graves that can be seen everywhere. Almost every stone or slab here speaks of the antiquity of the village.

The modern village looks rather poor and faded. There are many dilapidated houses in which people still live. There is no normal road, poor communication. From Mikrakh you can clearly see Kalajukh, which is just a stone's throw from there. At night there was a dem (wedding dance evening) in Kalajukh, the music was heard as if a wedding was being held in Mikrakh.

Mikrah

Rahman's house is located in the upper part of the village, from its veranda there is a stunning view of Nesinsuv and Kichensuv. Rahman's grandmother warmly welcomed us. Our evening was spent in conversations and discussion of what we had seen.

FLNKA

The Caucasus Mountains occupy half of the entire area of ​​Dagestan. There are about 30 peaks on the territory of the republic, the height of which is more than 4000 meters.

The highest mountains of Dagestan are Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151 meters), Dyultydag (4127 meters), and the Diklosmta mountain range (4285 meters). In the south of the republic stands Shalbuz-dag (3925 meters). Nearby stands the large table peak Yaru-Dag (4116 meters), its vertical walls have repeatedly become the site of competitions for climbers from all over Russia.

The largest mountain in Dagestan is Bazardyuzyu. It is located in the very south of the republic. The state border of the Russian Federation and neighboring Azerbaijan runs along the top of the mountain.

The Greater Caucasus Watershed Range stretches in the south and west of the republic. It traps moist air masses from the south, which is why the climate in Dagestan is dry.

Despite the high altitude of the mountains, the local glaciers are not as grandiose as their counterparts in the Central and Western Caucasus. The largest of them are located in the Bogos mountain range. The largest glacier in Dagestan is Belengi, 3.2 kilometers long, its ice thickness reaches 170 meters. Recently, glaciers have lost significant size, and many have disappeared completely.

The highlands of Dagestan are the kingdom of alpine meadows. Close to their lower edge there is a forest that rises to a height of 2000 - 2200 meters. It is home to many different animals: Dagestan aurochs live here, from time to time the shadow of a mountain goat flashes among the rocks or a herd of fleet-footed chamois leaps past. Brown bears and Caucasian deer, hares and martens live in the forest thickets. Here you can find flocks of rock partridges and mountain turkeys. Eagles soar high in the sky above the mountain peaks.

Inner Dagestan is an endless labyrinth of mountain ranges, peaks, cliffs and gorges. Many rivers are born in the mountains and carry their waters to the Caspian Sea. Their path lies in deep valleys and gorges.

The northern regions of the republic, where the Terek-Kuma lowland lies, greet the traveler with completely different landscapes. In ancient times, the waves of the ancient sea splashed on these plains. The salt marshes and shells of sea mollusks found in the sands still remind us of this. Today it is very dry, and the surrounding landscapes are more desert-like. The main local inhabitants are saigas, hares, foxes and, of course, a huge number of rodents.

A few rivers cross the salt plain, but not all of them manage to reach the sea. Only the high-water Terek, Samur, Sulak, Uluchay and Rubas, having overcome the sand dunes, flow into the Caspian Sea. Just before the sea, the rivers form large deltas, which change their shape every year. Here, on the coast, among the reeds, there is a real oasis of life. Waders, herons, geese and cranes nest in the water. Flocks of partridges live in the coastal thickets and the loud meowing of a jungle cat can be heard. Despite the fact that the local forests are not so large, they are home to wild boars, jackals and red deer.

On the Sulak River there is the deepest canyon in Russia. Its length is more than 50 kilometers, and the average depth is 1200 meters. The canyon is divided into three sections - Main, Chirkey and Miatlinsky. The most fascinating of them is the Main One. Where the walls of the canyon meet especially closely, its depth reaches a maximum of 1920 meters (for comparison, at the Colorado Canyon this figure is only 1600 meters). The bottom of the abyss is immersed in twilight. The roar of the raging water below echoes throughout the surrounding area, and clouds of water dust constantly hang in the air.

Inner Dagestan is an endless labyrinth of mountain ranges, rock peaks and gorges.

They are full of charm and internal contradictions: bright sun and snowy peaks, green alpine meadows and rocky cliffs, clear rivers and mudflows of stones and mud. And the Caucasus Mountains are full of legends and traditions. Plots related to the Caucasus occupy a significant place in Greek mythology (myths about Prometheus, the Golden Fleece and the Argonauts, Amazons, etc.). The Caucasus is also mentioned in the holy books of the Bible and the Koran.
The very origin of our mountains is also covered in legends. One of them was recorded by the great Alexandre Dumas when he traveled through the Caucasus in the mid-19th century. In ancient times, when there was only blue sky, steppe and several small mountains, an old man lived as a hermit on the top of one of them, eating only berries and spring water. Over time, the devil began to tempt and torment the elder. The hermit endured it for a long time, but then he prayed to God asking permission to punish the devil. Having received permission, the old man heated the tongs and grabbed the offender’s nose with them. The devil literally howled in pain, lashing his tail on the ground. An earthquake began, as a result of which the Caucasus Mountains were formed. And where the blows of the tail destroyed the rocks, today there are gloomy gorges.
To find out about the emergence of mountain ranges on the territory of modern Dagestan from a scientific point of view, we turned to a specialist - Candidate of Geographical Sciences, senior researcher at the Institute of Geology of the Dagestan Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Idris Idrisov.
– What preceded the appearance of mountains on the territory of Dagestan and when did this happen?
– The formation of mountains is a long and complex process. When events related to the formation of the modern Caucasus began, there were not only people on Earth, but also dinosaurs. This was in the second half of the Paleozoic era, more than 300 million years ago, then there was vast land here.
Subsequently, deep processes led to the formation of a vast ocean - Tethys. Specific sediments with the same type of fauna were deposited in it; later, a grandiose belt of mountains was formed from these rocks: the Alps, the Carpathians, the Caucasus, and the Himalayas.
Different parts of the Caucasus have different development histories. This is largely due to the structure of even deeper and more ancient parts - the foundation on which the “young” sedimentary cover rests. For example, the extreme south of Dagestan (from the Tsuntinsky to Akhtynsky regions) occupied the deepest parts of the ancient ocean, and deep-sea clays accumulated here. Over tens of millions of years after that, they turned into clay shales, which is why high-mountain Dagestan is also called Slantsevy. The vast land in those days was located to the north, and it was periodically flooded with water. According to modern data, large rivers flowed from it into the sea. Their deposits are represented by thick (hundreds of meters) strata of sandstone with interlayers of coal (a strip from the Tsumadinsky to Magaramkent regions). The age of these deposits is 165-200 million years.
Subsequently, the nature of the region's development changed dramatically. Under hot climate conditions, limestone deposits accumulated in the shallow zone. At that time, the strip from Shakhdag in the south to the Khunzakh plateau and further to the northwest (all the way to the Krasnodar Territory) was a tropical sea with corals. The rocks of that time (mainly limestones) form the central part, which is called Limestone Dagestan. Such rocks are most clearly represented in the north-west (from the Botlikh to Akushinsky regions), further to the south-east the strip of limestone development narrows sharply, leaving practically only the Karasyrt ridge.
The closure of Tethys and the sharp convergence of continental plates about 20 million years ago led to the beginning of the growth of mountains. At that time, the Caucasus was an island surrounded on all sides by the sea. The accumulated rocks were later either washed away, if they were clays, or preserved (if they were sandstones) in the form of a strip of low ridges surrounding the mountains of Dagestan. Subsequently, deposits of Sarmatian age accumulated - these are also clays, which are eroded almost everywhere, with a thin layer of limestone, fragments of which we see in the form of the Tarki-Tau and Dzhalgan mountains. The further history of the region is already connected with the isolated Caspian reservoir.
After the accumulation of rocks, tectonic (deep) processes took over the task of creating mountains, crushing rocks into folds, tearing them apart and moving them for kilometers along faults. In addition to tectonic processes, external (exogenous) processes also played a major role in creating the relief of the mountains of Dagestan: erosion by water, landslides, mountain glaciations, etc.
– Tell us in more detail about the features of our mountains.
– High-mountain Slate Dagestan is characterized by deep V-shaped valleys, with predominantly triangular peaks. In the highest places there is also a typically alpine - glacial relief, with moraines, lakes, etc. The highest peaks of Dagestan with a height of more than 4,000 m are concentrated here. The largest ridges in this part are Snegovoy, Bogossky, Nukatl, Taklik, Dyultydag, Samursky , Khultaydag, Kabaktepe. In the extreme southwest, the mountains are slightly lower, moist air penetrates through them from the south, and rich forests grow here.
Intramontane (Limestone) Dagestan is characterized by the presence of almost flat elongated plateau ridges (Khunzakh, Arakmeer, Turchidag, Gunib, Shunudag, etc.), up to 2,800 m high. These forms represent huge “waves of the Earth” - tectonic folds. In the river valleys there is an alternation of narrow sections (notable examples are the Sulak Canyon and the Karadakh Gorge) and wide basins. In these deep basins (Irganayskaya, Botlikhskaya, Kurminskaya, etc.) a specific dry and hot microclimate is established. There are steep rocky cliffs hundreds of meters high here.
In Foothill (Low Mountain) Dagestan there are three large outcrops of Cretaceous limestone, one of which is cut by the river. Sulak and where the relief is similar to Intramountain. The rest of the territory has relatively sloping ridges up to 800 m high, composed of sandstones with specific vegetation. The striking objects are two isolated plateau mountains (Tarki-Tau and Dzhalgan). In this zone there are two large tracts of forests: one in the northwest and it is associated with moisture masses coming from the Atlantic, the second in the southeast, in the Derbent region, where the influence of moisture coming from the Caspian Sea is felt.
– The Dagestan mountains are not only picturesque landscapes, but also a territory where agriculture has developed and minerals have been mined from time immemorial. How are these areas developing in the republic today?
– People used to be very careful about the land. Ancient villages were built in such a way as to save as much as possible the terraced earth created by hands; houses often stood on top of each other. However, now immediate tasks have become important, in solving which our enterprise helps a lot. Few people think about what will happen next, who will pay for such a consumerist and barbaric attitude towards nature, towards their homeland. The history of the development of the Eastern Caucasus has determined the presence here of the richest resources of sedimentary rocks (limestone, dolomite, sandstone, gravel, clay, etc.), they are all being spontaneously developed, this is clearly evident from the unprecedented construction boom in the region. It’s a completely different matter what benefits this brings to Dagestan and Dagestanis as a whole and how rational such use of land is.
Thus, the mountains of Dagestan have seen different times: both continuous development and desolation. Now the ancient terraces are mostly abandoned, but they will wait until people need them again. If we wisely use the resources that our mountains have, it will be possible to successfully develop agriculture, the extraction of building materials, tourism and much more.

The unique and only sand mountain may disappear in the Land of Mountains

There are many mountains in Dagestan, but there is only one sandy one, and it is the highest in Europe. This is the Sary-Kum dune, translated from Kumyk as “yellow sand”. It is located several tens of kilometers northwest of Makhachkala.

A group of Dagestan bloggers visited the dune. It is very interesting for tourists. The Kumtorkalinsky municipal district could feed itself on this. However, no one cares about tourism. The protected area is not protected from the harmful effects of humans and livestock, and is not suitable for tourists.

The desert island is not accessible to tourists

Sarykum is the largest dune not only in Russia, but also on the entire Eurasian continent, reaching an absolute height of 262 m. Here, for 5 months, from May to September, average monthly temperatures exceed 20°.

At the foot of the dune, the absolute maximum temperature for Dagestan was 42.5°. This is explained by the strong heating of the sandy surface of the dune. In summer, on the slopes of southern exposure, the surface temperature of the dune reaches 55-60°. Already in April, the sand temperature during the day exceeds 30°.

Near the dune there is a railway line leading to Buynaksk. It was laid in the century before last to connect Russian provinces with the then capital of the Dagestan region, Temir-Khan-Shura.

Since Nikolaev times, the walls of the railway station have stood at the foot. Chicken coops were added to the walls of the historical site, and rabbits are also kept here. The building itself and the land are under the jurisdiction of the Railway Administration. But the department, apparently, has no time for history. And tourists, in general, are not their profile.

Why do quarries threaten the dune?

It turned out that the unique natural monument of the Sary-Kum dune is threatened by sand mining quarries. Rare animals and plants on this desert island are disappearing.

Not far from the sandy mountain, a large glass factory is being built, where the bloggers also landed safely. Representatives of the plant reassured that sand for glass production would not be taken from the surrounding area of ​​the dune.

The reason is good. It is not suitable for glass production. The building material is cast from quartz sand. It will be imported from abroad, the plant explained.

For whom the winds have collected sand for thousands of years

There are several hypotheses about the origin of the sand mountain. I will try to talk about them without scientific scientific terminology. According to the first version, winds for hundreds of thousands of years collected sand bit by bit here.

The sand from the dune is different from ordinary sea sand. The grains of sand are very small. They are yellow and transparent. But this also speaks of the “wind” version. An ordinary wind can lift very small selected grains of sand into the air.

Fragments of slightly larger shells remain. This is what happens when the chaff is separated from the grain. The light chaff flies away, but the grain remains. In this case, fine sand is carried away from the sea coast by the wind.

But it’s good that nature has found a place where the winds can collect this sand. At the site of the dune, the landscape created a wind tunnel.

The mountain is losing height

But the problem is that the landscape of the sand mountain itself is being destroyed. Opposite Sary-Kum, there was another dune, smaller in height. The nameless neighbor, finding himself outside the territory of the reserve, was eaten by excavators of a sand quarry that had been operating for 25 years.

An unnamed dune, covered with sparse vegetation, was leveled to the plain. 20 years ago the quarry began at a cliff above the Shura-Ozen River valley. Now he has moved hundreds of meters deep into the mountain, removing a 15-meter layer of sand deposits.

High-quality fine sand is trucked out virtually every hour. Although the quarry is located outside the territory of the reserve, it causes irreparable damage to the Sary-Kum dune itself.

The fact is that a kind of “metabolism” took place between the dunes located on both sides of the river. Southern winds carried sand from a small dune to Sary-Kum.

The northern winds returned the sand to the little neighbor. As a result, Sary-Kum changed its appearance. The highest point of the dune was moving.

But now the sand from Sary-Kum is irrevocably eroded into the void formed by the quarry. This is one of the reasons for the reduction of the mountain. Over 50 years, the height of the mountain fell by 25 meters.

Desert island in the middle of a semi-desert

There is another hypothesis for the formation of the dune. Sary-Kum and its small neighbor are part of the same sand dune, formed several tens of thousands of years ago, when the sea coast came close to the foot of the leading ridge of the Caucasus Narat-Tyube mountains.

Sand accumulated at the mouth of the river, forming a huge dune. When the sea retreated several tens of kilometers, the sandbank remained in the form of a huge dune. It was divided into two parts by the bed of the Shura-Ozen River.

The dune is part of the Dagestansky State Nature Reserve. The director of the reserve, Kurban Kuniev, claims that the sands on Mount Sary-Kum are absolutely identical in composition to the sands found everywhere on the slopes of the Narat-Tyube ridge within a radius of 20-30 kilometers.

The interlocutor considers the development of a quarry in close proximity to the dune undesirable. Sand can be mined in any other place south or north of the reserve. However, the quarry was opened in this place only because there is a road leading to the old village of Korkmaskala.

Dagestan translated means “country of mountains”. To visualize the scale of the region and its tourism opportunities, it should be said that the northern slopes of the mountains of the Central and partially Eastern Caucasus, occupying the territories of Kabardino-Balkaria, North Ossetia and Chechnya and Ingushetia, are equal in area to mountainous Dagestan.
Up to 30 peaks of Dagestan exceed 4000 m, and its highest point, Bazardyuzyu, reaches an altitude of 4466 m. About two dozen mountain peaks are close to the 4000 m mark.

Atlybuyun Pass, Makhachkala on the right

The orography of Dagestan is unique; a 245-kilometer strip of foothills abuts transverse ridges that border Inner Dagestan in a huge arc. Two main rivers emerge from the mountains - Sulak in the north and Samur in the south. The natural boundaries of mountainous Dagestan are: the Snow and Andean ridges - up to the giant canyon of Sulak, Gimrinsky, Les, Kokma, Dzhufudag and Yarudag - between Sulak and the Samur basin, the Main Caucasus Range (GKR) - in the southwest of both basins.

Inner Dagestan, in turn, is divided into a mid-mountain, plateau-like region and an alpine, high-mountain region. In terms of sports and tourism, these are the most interesting areas of the republic.
The mountains occupy an area of ​​25.5 thousand km2, and the average height of the entire territory of Dagestan is 960 m. The rocks that make up the mountains of Dagestan are sharply demarcated. The main ones are black and clayey shales, strong dolomitized and weak alkaline limestones, as well as sandstones. The slate ridges include Snegovoy with the Diklosmta massif (4285 m), Bogos with the Addala-Shukhgelmeer peak (4151 m), Shalib with the Dyultydag peak (4127 m).

Alpine Dagestan includes the Snegovaya, Bogossky, Nukatl, Shalib, Takliko-Dyultydag knot, Saladag, Khultaydag, Samursky, Kyabyaktepe and GKH ridges (mainly its southern part). The Andisky, Gimrinsky, Arakmeer, Les, Kokma, Dzhufudag ridges, vast plateaus and table peaks of Betl, Khunzakhskoe, Tlimeer, Gunib, Turchidag, Shunudag make up Inner Dagestan. The relief of mountainous Dagestan, formed as a result of the interaction of tectonic processes and the erosive work of flowing waters, is complex and intricate. No wonder the famous scientist V.V. Dokuchaev called it an endless labyrinth of mountain ranges, peaks, rocks and gorges.

All the high ridges of Dagestan are spurs of the GKH, which stretches for almost 300 km, and its northeastern slopes occupy a huge territory, while the southwestern slopes and spurs are short and steep. In the south along the GKH along its entire length stretches the fertile grape and fruit valley of Alazani and its left tributary Agrichaya. The GKH here is inferior to its northeastern side ridges and spurs in height up to 1000-1500 m. Over a long distance from Natsidris to Malkamud, the peaks of the GKH do not exceed 3500 m, excluding Guton (3648 m) and Seytyurt (3683 m). Only in the section from Malkamud (3876 m) to Bazarduzu, i.e. over the entire 24 km, does the GKH rise sharply, and at the peaks of Charyndag (4084 m), Ragdan (4020 m) and Bazarduzu (4466 m) it goes beyond the 4000 mark m.

Mount Yarudag Geography of Dagestan

The Snowy Ridge, the westernmost in Dagestan, at the Godoberi Pass joins the Andean Ridge, which, in turn, is limited by the Kharigavurtai Pass. Beyond this pass rises the short Salatau ridge, closing the chain of the single watershed of the Argun and the Andean Koisu. We can agree with G. Anokhin, author of the book “Eastern Caucasus”, that the Snow Range ends in its snow-ice zone, i.e. at the Khulan Pass (3290 m) or at the Gakko Pass (2997 m). The entire further watershed can be safely called the Andean ridge with its spurs and passes to the easternmost point - the Main Sulak Canyon.

The first spur of the GKH itself is the short but high (up to 3683 m) Kirioti ridge. Extending to the northeast, it exceeds the peaks of the GKH by 500-600 m. The Kirioti ridge serves as a local watershed for the Andian Koisu and Mitluda (Metlyuta) rivers.

In the same direction, near Mount Duruja (3082 m), the most powerful Bogossky ridge in terms of glaciation and altitude (up to 4152 m), separating the Andean and Avar Koisu basins, extends. This ridge is composed of shales, and after the Hapurda pass - limestones. Subsequently, the watershed line runs along limestone plateaus, ending in rocky walls towards the valleys of the Andean and Avar Koisu. The huge Khunzakh plateau, rising behind Mount Tolokero, together with the neighboring Arakmeer ridge, create their own world of limestone, white marls, raised to the sky with alpine herbs, unlike the clear watershed of Bogos. High short spurs extend from the Bogossky ridge: to the north are the Khema (up to 3809 m) and Kad (up to 4111 m) ridges; to the south - the Keran (up to 3375 m), Tlim (up to 3769 m), Rosoda (up to 3662 m) and Gamchil (up to 3573 m) ridges.

Mount Shalbuzdag Geography of Dagestan

The Nukatl ridge separates the basins of the Avar Koisu and Karakoisu rivers. Many geographers place the Nucatl ridge within a more limited framework - between the peaks of Nucatl and Borusch. Next is the cuesta zone in the form of transverse ridges and table tops (Tlimeer, Gunib, etc.). The initial part of the watershed is a complex orographic system of ridges. The highest point of the entire Nukatl ridge - Mount Butnushuer (3925 m) - is located precisely in this virtually nameless part of the watershed.

A huge “sickle” of the Samur watershed extends from the nodal peak of Guton on the GKH. The first quarter of its length is the broken Taklik ridge-bridge. Before the junction with another local ridge of the Samur watershed, the Dyultydag, the Taklik ridge has a northeastern strike, like Kirioti, Bogos, and Nukatl.
But already at the very beginning, the Dyultydag ridge changes direction to the southeast and maintains it until Mount Alakhundag. From here the Samur ridge itself stretches for many kilometers along the Karasamur and Samur rivers to the southeast, and beyond Mount Gestinkil to the east. The end of the ridge is gradually lost in the Kasumkent foothills. The Samur ridge is connected to the region of foothills of Dagestan by the Kokma ridge, which, in turn, is connected to the Dzhufudag ridge. Both ridges border the basin of the Chiragchay River from the north. The steep arcs of the ridges of middle and southern Dagestan give the rivers flowing at their foot an arcuate direction, with the lower part of the arc facing the south.

Akhvakhsky district of Dagestan

In the Samur basin there are also ridges that are not inferior in height to the Samur. These are Khultaydag and Kabaktepe. The first separates Samur from Karasamur, the second from Akhtychay. The peaks of Khultaydag do not exceed 3550 m. In contrast to Khultaydag, the crest of the Kabaktepe ridge, starting from the place where the Kurdul River flows into Samur, quickly gains height to 3624 m (Mount Karadag) and, following to the south, reaches a height of 4016 m (Mount Deavgay). Further to the southeast, Kabyaktepe gradually decreases, and from Mount Kuzaydag it turns east and, losing height, ends up in Akhtychay right in the village of Akhty. The southwestern and southern spurs of Käbyaktepe are short and steep, while the northeastern and northern spurs are long. The rivers of the northern slopes - Magi, Lalaom, Falfan - flow in narrow, deep gorges.

In the southern part of Dagestan, shale ridges in some places are broken through by powerful limestone outcrops. First of all, we can note the multi-peaked Shalbuzdag (4142 m) and the huge table of Yarudag (4116 m). The Yarudag plateau breaks off almost vertically to the west, north and south, and only in the east does it have a narrow bridge connecting Yarudag with the Shahdag ridge. The watershed between Chekhychay and Tagirdjala starts from the top of Bazarduzu, passes through the depression of the Kurush Pass, along the western edge of the Yarudag Plateau, through the Gil Pass and further to the confluence of Tagirdjala with Samur. The Yarudag watershed serves as a natural border between Dagestan and Azerbaijan.

Lake Kazenoy-Am, on the border with the river. Chechnya

Hydrography.
Dagestan has an extensive river network. The total number of rivers is 6255, but most of them are streams up to 10 km long. All rivers belong to the Caspian Sea basin, although only 20 of them flow directly into the sea. The largest river systems are Sulak (144 km) and Samur (213 km). The lower reaches of the Terek also pass through Dagestan.
Among other large rivers, we note Aktash (156 km), Shuraozen (80 km), Manasozen (82 km), Gamriozen (58 km), Ulluchay (111 km), Rubas (92 km) and Gulgerychay (133 km). Sulak serves as the drainage of a huge river basin, bounded by the ridges: Atsunta - in the west, Salatau - in the north, Gimrinsky - in the east, Samursky - in the south, GKH - in the southwest. The main rivers that make up Sulak are the Andiyskoe, Avarskoe, Kazikumukhskoe Koisu and Karakoisu. Their basins occupy all the northern and central mountainous regions of Dagestan. In the south of the republic the rivers of the Samur and Gyulgerychay basins flow. The Samur has two large tributaries - Karasamur (42 km) and Akhtychay (63 km). Gulgerychay collects the waters of Chiragchay (93 km) and Kurakh (85 km).

92% of the rivers of Dagestan are of the mountain type, and only 8% flow in the foothills and plains. The average specific fall of most rivers exceeds 50 m/km. Rivers with a length of 10 to 25 km have the highest values ​​of average specific fall. The mountain rivers of Dagestan are distinguished by deep valley incisions, starting almost from the sources, significant dissection and large slopes. Deep incisions of valleys with very rough terrain divide its surface into a number of high isolated massifs. A characteristic feature of mountainous Dagestan is poor forest cover in the highlands and especially in the intramountain regions. The transverse profiles of valleys cutting through sand and shale rocks in the high mountain zone have the form of gorges and canyons. The slopes of the valleys are high, steep, and often vertical.

Rivers in the mountains are turbulent and swift. Current speed is 1-2 m/s, on rapids up to 2.5 m/s. During floods, the speed increases to 3-6 m/s. The distribution of depths along the length is random. Water tourists are usually interested in such characteristics of rivers as water flow and average slope. The water flow of the Andean Koisu is 72.8 m3/s, the Avar Koisu - 94.5, the Karakoisu - 18.9, the Kazikumukh Koisu - 2.5, the Sulak - 176, the Samur - 64.3 m3/s, and the average slope of the Andean Koisu - 8.6%, Avar Koisu - 15.2%, Karakoisu - 27.2%, Kazikumukh Koisu - 31.6%, Sulak - 1.95%, Samur - 13.6%. All the main rivers of mountainous Dagestan, except the Gyulgerychay, are glacially fed. The foothill rivers Aktash, Aksai, Shuraozen, Ulluchay and Rubas are fed by spring and groundwater, as well as rainfall. As a rule, they do not reach the sea, getting lost in the sands or floodplains of the Caspian lowland. Only the waters of Ulluchay and Rubas, having broken through the coastal sand dunes, have a constant flow into the sea. The high-water Terek, Sulak and Samur often wander around their delta and change the main direction. Terek currently has three main drains - Old Terek, New Terek and Alikazgan, and Samur - Big and Small Samur.

Ancient Derbent, fortress

Glaciers.
Due to the significant dryness of the climate, as well as the peculiar precipitation with a maximum in the summer, the area of ​​glaciation in Dagestan is much smaller than in the more humid Central and Western Caucasus. According to the “Catalog of Glaciers of the USSR” for 1975, in Dagestan, with a total glaciation area of ​​47 km2, there are 159 glaciers. This number includes not only glaciers of the 1st and 2nd categories, i.e. valley, ravine, hanging and gorge type, but also small (up to 0.1 km2) glaciers, firn glaciers and firn snowfields.

The distribution of glaciers across river basins is uneven. The glaciers of Dagestan are not connected to each other, but are confined to high peaks and mountain rises - the Snegovoy, Bogossky, Nukatlya, Samursky ridges, etc. The largest area of ​​glaciation is near the Bogossky massif - 16.5 km2. Most glaciers are located in shady areas of vast cirques and cirques. The most common type of glaciers in Dagestan is the cirque type; hanging and valley glaciers are less common. Firn glaciers and snowfields have become widespread.

Glaciers drop lowest in the west of mountainous Dagestan, on the Snegovoy and Bogossky ridges, to 2900-3000 m absolute height. The Belengi glacier descends to 2520 m - a “record” achievement for this zone. Following to the south and east, the height of the ends of the tongues increases, reaching 3460 m in the Dyultydag massif (Yatmichaar glacier), and 3500-3600 m in the GKH, in the Bazardyuzyu region. All significant glaciers have a northern exposure. On the southern slopes their number is much smaller, and there are only small-sized cirque glaciers and firn snowfields. Glaciers on both the northern and, to a greater extent, southern slopes are gradually shrinking. Some have completely disappeared over the past 70 years. Within Dagestan and its mountain neighbors Checheno-Ingushetia and Azerbaijan there are 8 areas where glaciers are concentrated.

mausoleum in the village of Khuthula

RANGE OF DAGESTAN
1. The Snow Range, the eastern part of the powerful Pirikitel chain of mountains, is the northernmost center of glaciation in Dagestan. Glaciers here are concentrated mainly at the peaks of Diklosmta and Ametkhan-Sultan. The total area of ​​glaciation is 7.72 km2, with the southern (Dagestan) slopes accounting for only 2.1 km2. The most powerful glacier on the northern slope of the Snowy Range, Diklos, is 2.7 km long. The glaciers Chero (2 km), Eastern Diklos (1.5 km) and Diklos IV (1.1 km) reach more than 1 km. Glacier tongues of northern exposure are located on average at an altitude of about 2650 m, and of southern exposure - at 3170 m.

2. The Bogossky ridge is the most powerful node of modern glaciation in Dagestan, one of the largest in the Eastern Caucasus. The bulk of glaciers are concentrated on its northwestern slope. According to the 1975 “Catalog of Glaciers of the USSR”, the glaciation area here is 16.5 km2. The largest area is occupied by the Belengi glacier (2.9 km2). It is also the longest (3.2 km). The glaciers Tinavchegelatl (2.7 km), North-Eastern Addala (2.2 km), Bolshoy Antsokhsky (2.1 km), and Zigitli (2.1 km) are over 2 km long. Most of the glaciers of Bogos are cirque, less often hanging. The average height of the ends of glaciers on the northern slopes is 2820 m, on the southern slopes - 3260 m.

Mount Nessendag Geography of Dagestan

3. Glaciation of the Nukatl ridge is insignificant: 16 small cirque glaciers and 2 valley glaciers (Temir - 1.8 km and Mazadinsky - 1.1 km). The largest area (0.7 km2) is the glacier near Mount Salmadul and the firn field 1.5 km northwest of Mount Nukatl (0.9 km2). Most glaciers end at an altitude of more than 3,300 m. This location is explained by the intense contraction and retreat of glaciers. Now the glaciation area is 4.5 km2.

4. Glaciation of the Butnushuer-Korkagel peaks, with a total area of ​​2.2 km2, is poorly developed and, moreover, little studied. There are only 10 glaciers with a predominance of firn snowfields. There is only one cirque-valley glacier, Tlyagdy (on the western slope of Butnushuer) with a length of 1.4 km. The glaciation of the 3rd and 4th regions belongs to the single Nukatl watershed, separating the Avar Koysu and Karakoysu. But even in this case, the Nucatl glaciation is only 6.7 km2.

5. The Guton glaciation is adjacent to the GKH. On the northern slopes of Guton there are 2 hanging glaciers with an area of ​​0.3 km2, and on the southern slopes there is one cirque with an area of ​​0.1 km2. Firn snowfields are also widespread.

6. The Bishinei-Saladag glaciation is the second most powerful after the Bogossky glaciation. The multi-kilometer arc of the Bishinei, Taklik and Saladag ridges, concave to the southwest, stretches from the Northern Bishinei pass through the peaks of Bishinei (4106 m), Taklik (4047 m) and Saladag (3725 m) to Mount Gilamush. Glaciers are located mainly on the northeastern slopes (8.3 km2). Of the total glaciated area of ​​9.7 km2, only 1.4 km2 falls on the northwestern and western slopes. There are 27 glaciers in total.

There are different types of glaciers along this huge arc. Most of them (11) are cirques, and three of them, at the top of Saladag, reach a length of 1 km or more. There are 10 hanging glaciers, 2 hanging-car type glaciers (one of them, Yuzhnokhashkharvinsky, is 2.1 km long), and 4 cirque-valley glaciers: Taklik (3 km). Northern Bishiney (1.6 km), Khashkharva (1.6 km) and at Mount Bokhzab (1.2 km). The Bnshiney-Saladag group of glaciers, located in the Central hub of high-mountain Dagestan, serves as the main source of the Oysor and Risor, which make up the Karakoysu, as well as the Dyultychay and Khalakhura - the left tributaries of the Samur.

Karadakh Gorge Geography of Dagestan

7. Glaciation of the Dyultydag ridge is confined to its northern slope and is represented mainly by cirque and cirque-valley glaciers. On the southern slope, only 2 firn glaciers were noted, at the peaks of Dyultydag and Balial. The glaciers in this area are mostly small. The largest of them are Yatmichaar (1 km), the firn field near Balial, 2 glaciers in a huge cirque on the northern slope of the mountain 3904 m and the Viralyu glacier (0.9 km). One of the glaciers of the 3904 m mountain reaches a length of 2.3 km, and the total area of ​​3 firn glaciers of the cirque is 1.5 km2. The glaciated area of ​​the entire Dyultydag ridge is 6.1 km2. The average height of the end of the Dyultydag glaciers is about 3500 m, and the ends of the glaciers on the southern slope are at altitudes from 3820 to 3900 m, or on average 350 m higher than the northern ones.

8. The area of ​​​​the peaks of GKH and Bazarduzu is an independent small center of glaciation. This is the southernmost and at the same time the easternmost glaciation zone of Dagestan. All glaciers are located on the slopes of northern exposure. Below 3000 m, only the tongue of the Murkar glacier descends. The remaining heights of the lower level of glaciers fluctuate in the range of 3300–3800 m.

The number of glaciers here is small - only 7, but the fairly famous ones are Murkar (2.7 km) and Tikhitsar (2 km), covering the northern slopes of Bazardyuzyu with continuous ice armor, giving the highest point of Dagestan and Azerbaijan an impressive appearance. The glaciated area of ​​the Bazarduzu glaciers is 2.7 km2. In the mountain cirque between the peaks of Charyndag and Ragdan there is another center of glaciation. The firn glaciers Ragdan and Charyn (1.8 km) provide the main flow to the Chekhychay River (Samur basin).

Outside of Dagestan, in the Kusarchaya basin, there is a group of glaciers with an area of ​​3.2 km2. The flat-topped Shahdag glacier (1.6 km2) stands out here. This type of glaciers is rare in the Caucasus. Several glaciers are concentrated near Mount Bazaryurt. The glaciation of the Eastern Caucasus is concluded by the hanging glacier Abildare near Mount Tfan.

Caspian Sea near the city of Kaspiysk

Vegetation and fauna.
The territory of Dagestan is distinguished by a variety of vegetation cover, depending on sharp differences in relief, climate, soil and other landscape elements. Most of the territory is occupied by alpine and mid-mountain meadows. Forests are less common: only 8% of the territory.
According to natural conditions, mountainous Dagestan is divided into foothill, mountain and high-mountain physical-geographical zones. In the foothill zone, starting from the heights. 600 m, where precipitation is higher than on the plain, meadows and forests are common. On the northern slopes of Salatau, the Andean and Gimry ridges, birch, hornbeam, oak, and other tree species grow in the forests. In the southern part of the foothill belt, beech-hornbeam forest is most often found. Birch appears on the upper border, and in cleared areas - alder, aspen, yellow rhododendron, etc.

Starting from an altitude of 1800 m, subalpine meadows become more and more widespread, and from 2400–2800 m, alpine meadows become more widespread. Subalpine meadows are characterized by lush vegetation. With the transition to alpine meadows, the species composition of plants gradually changes and becomes poorer, and the height of the grass stand decreases. There are mantles, fescue, clover, astragalus, blue scabiosa, blue gentians, pink rhododendron. At an altitude of 3200-3600 m, near the border with eternal snow, the vegetation is very poor. Mosses, lichens, and other cold-resistant plants predominate. Mountain and alpine meadows, occupying a large area, serve as summer pastures for numerous flocks of sheep.

Gamsutl Geography of Dagestan

In the inland part, woody vegetation is found in the most elevated places, where it is divided into islands of forest. At the foot of the Betl plateau there are pine and birch forests, on the northern slope of the Daradin plateau there are pine trees, near Chiragchay to the east of the village of Richa there is a linden and birch grove. The birch grove in Gunib and the hornbeam grove near Tsudahar are widely known. There are relatively large areas of forest on the wetter northern and western slopes of the mountains. In the high-mountainous part of the upper reaches of the Andean and Avar Koisu and Samur, pine-berzz forests have survived to the present day. The most forested areas of the highlands are the basins of Khzanor, Dzhurmut, Mitluda, Kila, and Saraor. The main forest areas of mountainous Dagestan are concentrated here. There are fewer forests in the Samura basin. They are confined mainly to the Karasamur basin and some of the right tributaries of the Samur (Magi, Lalaom, Falfan).

The fauna is especially rich in the highlands, where unique animals unique to Dagestan are found. There are Dagestan tur, bearded goat, Caucasian deer, dark brown bear, and Caucasian leopard. There are many birds in the mountains: snowcock (mountain turkey), Caucasian black grouse, stone partridge, eagles. In the inland part of Dagestan, which is more populated and less forested, the fauna is poorer. Here you can find various rodents, lizards, and snakes. In southern Dagestan there is a dangerous poisonous viper snake. Trout is found in mountain rivers. The flora and fauna in Dagestan are protected by humans. The Gutonsky and Charodinsky reserves were created in the mountains, the Kayakentsky and Kasumkentsky reserves were created in the foothills, and the Samursky reserve was created in the Caspian lowland.

Lake Hala-Khel Geography of Dagestan

The climate of mountainous Dagestan is moderate continental, characterized by a large temperature difference between summer and winter in the lowlands and between day and night in the mountains. At an altitude of more than 3000 m, the average annual temperature is below 0°. The coldest weather throughout Dagestan is in January. The warmest month in inland and high mountain areas is August. The average January temperature on the Bogossky ridge (Sulak weather station - 2953 m) is minus 11°, in the Samura valley (Luchek village) plus 4°. The maximum average August temperature in the mountains of plus 20° is typical for the hot Samur valley (the village of Akhty). The lowest temperature in the mountains was recorded at the Sulak weather station - minus 28° and on the Khunzakh plateau - minus 24°; the highest is in the area of ​​Akhta - plus 38° and Luchek - plus 36°.

The amount of precipitation is distributed very unevenly across the territory. First of all, it depends on the terrain conditions. In inland Dagestan, where precipitation is retained by mountain ranges, an average of 500 mm of precipitation falls per year, and even less in the valleys. The most precipitation is in the high mountains, where even in summer there are low temperatures. The bulk of precipitation falls in May-July.

There are frequent thunderstorms. The Bogossky ridge (south of Mount Izhena), the GKH in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bMount Guton and the Bishinei ridge are considered especially “thunderstormy”. Summer showers and rains can be heavy and long lasting. As a result, the temperature drops, rivers swell, demolishing bridges and eroding paths, and powerful mudflows occur. The Temir River and some rivers of southern Dagestan are most dangerous for mudflows. In such cases, it is undesirable to lay routes along river beds, even if there are trails. It is necessary to use the “upper” paths, which were laid by the mountaineers along almost all gorges.

Communication routes. You can get to Dagestan from the north by the Moscow-Baku railway, by plane from Leningrad, Moscow, Kyiv, Tashkent, Baku, and other cities, and by the Grozny-Botlikh and Rostov-Baku highways. Sea travel in the Caspian Sea is also possible, but there is no regular traffic here. Dagestan can be called a country of roads: only with hard surfaces (asphalt concrete, compacted crushed stone) there are 18,620 km of them in the republic. Well, dirt roads and so-called pasture roads (that is, not passable in any weather) have been built to almost all auls and villages of Dagestan.

Preobrazhenskaya Fortress, Dagestan

The most convenient way to access the foothills of the Snegovy and Bogossky ridges is along the Grozny - Botlikh (129 km) and Khasavyurt - Agvali (141 km) highways. The routes along the Nukatl ridge and the Dyulty-Taklik junction should be reached from three points: 1) from Kizilyurt to Buynaksk, through the Arkas Pass and to Tlyarata (227 km); 2) from Makhachkala through the Kizilyar pass to Tsurib (194 km); 3) from Izberbash through Sergokala and the Nurgelabek pass to Vacha (132 km). The sixth road goes to the mountains from the village of Mamedkala, passes the regional centers of Majalis and Urkarakh, goes around the village of Kubachi and through the Gutsabek pass reaches the village of Akusha (139 km). The Derbent-Khanag road (62 km) leads to the Tabasaran Mountains.

Where the Rostov-Baku highway approaches Gyulgerychai, there is an important crossroads. The highway goes south to Samur, and another goes to the west. Rising through the Chiragchay valley to the Chiragsky pass, it slides into the Sulak basin. The last, ninth, transverse route runs along the Samur valley through the regional centers of Magaramkent, Akhty, Rutul and ends in the village of Tsakhur.

It should be noted that most of the roads in Dagestan have directions transverse to the ridges, which means a long length of roads, a loss of time, and the need to cross one, two or more passes to achieve the final goal. To avoid such trips, you must either fly to the mountains on local airlines (to Botlikh, Agvali, Bezhta, Tlyarata, Khunzakh, Gunib, Kumukh, other points) from the airports of Makhachkala and Khasavyurt, or start the route directly from the Transcaucasian towns of Georgia and Azerbaijan (Napareuli , Eniseli, Kvareli, Lagodekhi, Belokany, Zagatala, Kakhi, Sheki and Kutkashen).

From the mountain plateaus and uplifted limestone ridges of the middle mountains to the villages of high-mountain Dagestan, there are also roads along river gorges: along the Andean Koisu - from Ashilta to Echeda (99 km); along the Avar Koisu - from Karadakh to Bezhta (108 km) and Tlyarata (98 km); along Karakoysu - from the Red (Saltinsky) Bridge to Gilib and Archib (60 km); along the Kazikumukh Koisu - from Gergebil to Burshi (75 km) and Khosrekh (89 km). Two long roads follow the river valleys from the mouth to the source: along the Chiragchay - Beliji - Chirag valley (110 km) and along Samur - Magaramkent - Tsakhur (124 km).

waterfall and canyon near the village of Salta

TOURISM IN DAGESTAN
The main types of tourism cultivated in Dagestan. Naturally, the lion's share here belongs to mountain hikes, which is facilitated by the republic's topography. High mountains, relatively large glaciation, a diverse network of watershed ridges and their spurs, the presence of difficult passes, 15 of which have a difficulty category of 2B and higher - this is the basis for the development of mountain tourism in Dagestan.
Since the late 70s, hiking tourism has developed rapidly. After all, in Dagestan there are lower ridges and simpler passes, there are vast forested basins, easily accessible highlands and plateaus. Through the low and mostly uncomplicated GKH passes, hiking routes have access to the sunny Alazani Valley. Tourists-pedestrians have explored both the wooded, softly outlined foothills and the intramountain, apparently inaccessible areas of the republic. The number of developed passes typical for hiking tourism exceeds 110.

Water, ski, bicycle, and motorcycle types of tourism are less common in Dagestan. This can be explained by the complexity of the rivers for watermen, the warm climate for skiers, and the lack of well-maintained roads for motorized tourists. But even here there are certain achievements, as evidenced by the routes included in our guide. Presumably, their number will increase with the general development of tourism in the republic. There is great interest among travelers in Dagestan in its history. The republic has 346 historical monuments protected by the state. You can count at least 300 more monuments protected by customs. All these monuments can be divided into archaeological (15, 20 and more centuries ago), historical (from the 6th to the beginning of the 20th century), revolutionary, labor, military (dating back to 1917).

Chokh village

Archaeological excavations (fortifications, settlements, burial grounds) lift the veil over the life of distant times. In Dagestan, the medieval settlements of Urtseki, 12 km west of Izberbash and Sigitminskoye, south of Chiryurt, Eskiyurt (I-V1II centuries) near Kayakent, and an early medieval settlement near the village of Enderi (Andreyaul) are known. The most impressive in Dagestan are the powerful defensive structures and among them the many-kilometer wall of Dagbara, stretching across the mountains from Derbent to the village of Yagdyk. The Narynkala fortress in Derbent is world famous, the oldest building of which dates back to the 6th century. Near the village of Khuchni, the legendary fortress of the Seven Brothers rises on a spur of the mountain above the Rubas River. On the Gunib plateau, the ruins of a fortress from the 10th to 13th centuries have been preserved. An ancient fortress can be seen near the village of Arkas, and near the village of Mekegi, in the gorge of the same name, a fortified cave city of the 13th-14th centuries was recently discovered.

Many fortifications arose in the 19th century, during the Caucasian War. In Upper Gunib, the Gunib fortress is well preserved, where a tourist center is now located. On the Khunzakh plateau stands the Araninskaya fortress, built in 1867. Not far from Makhachkala, on the plateau of Mount Tarkitau, 20-30 years ago one could see the Burnaya fortress. Unfortunately, it interfered with the development of the stone and was demolished. All that remained were cells carved into the sheer rock. The Preobrazhenskaya fortress and the bridge fortification of three round towers built in 1859 on the Andisky Koisu near Botlikh have been restored. The plain fortress of Toprakkala was built by the tsarist troops in the area between the Rubas and Gyulgerychay rivers. The southernmost fortress in Dagestan - Akhtynskaya - is located in the gardens of the right bank of Akhtychay.

Endless raids and wars forced the Dagestanis to build towers - combat, signal, residential. They are scattered throughout mountainous Dagestan. The oldest surviving towers are the combat tower (XVII-XVIII centuries) in the village of Itsari and the watchtower (XVIII century) in the village of Koroda. Signal towers rise above the pass in the rocky spur of Bogos near the village of Khushtada and Tindinskaya nad Kila. From three gorges - Dzhurmut, Khzanor and Saraor - the Antsukh watchtower and signal tower are visible. The fire and smoke on its top are visible from the towers of Landa and Hantakolob. There are many well-preserved towers in Urad and Tidib, in the old villages of Kakhib and Goor. Towers also rise on the Kodori and Bechikhi passes, guarding the borders of the “country of mountains”. There are towers in the villages of Richa, Tsulda, a round and rectangular tower of the 17th century. in the village of Tlibisho, towers in the Cherakh Gorge. The towers on the territory of the republic are silent witnesses to the turbulent events of the history of Dagestan, and they must be protected, because they are the memory of the people.

In Dagestan, entire villages can be considered historical monuments. Let's name the world-famous Kubachi, which arose back in the 6th century, Kakhib with buildings of the 16th-18th centuries, Rugudzhu with a castle of the 10th century, Chokh (16th century), raising stone steps-houses to the sky. There are many religious buildings of Islam in the auls and villages of Dagestan: mosques and minarets. Among them is the minaret in the village of Khrug - a quadrangular tapering tower with a white stone on top, a mosque of the 11th-12th centuries. in Urkarakh, Juma mosque (XII-XV centuries) with a caravanserai over the old part of Derbent, mosques in Assab (XVI century), Koroda (XVIII century), minarets in Lower Dzhengutai (1845) and Kvanada, mosques in Tindi (XVII century), Khosrekh (XVI century), Akhty, Tsakhur, Kalakoreish.

There are also traces of Christianity in Dagestan: in a secluded corner near the town of Datuna there is a temple of the 9th-11th centuries. A small building with holes cut into the wall, its architecture is reminiscent of Georgian churches. Less common monuments include mausoleums, tombs, gravestones, and tastefully decorated springs. The mausoleum of the 18th century is famous. in the village of Khuchni, mausoleum of the 15th century. in the village of Akhty, the mausoleum of Hasan Effendi in the village of Shtul. The most interesting are the tombstones of the ancient cemeteries of Derbent, the tomb of the holy sheikh at the northern cliffs of Shalbuzdag in the town of “Pir”, a rare chest-shaped tombstone of the 11th-12th centuries for Dagestan. at the Tabasaran cemetery. The stone bridges of the 19th century look like beautiful creations of old masters. in Akhty and Tashkopur, a reinforced concrete bridge over Akhtychay, built by the Italians. Among the abundance of architecturally designed springs, one can note the domed spring of the early 19th century. in Tarki.

aul Kubachi

Terek (Old Russian. Terka, Georgian. თერგი Tergi, Kabard.-Cherk. Terch, Karach.-Balk. Terk Suu, Osset. Terk, Chech. Terk) is a river in the North Caucasus.

The ancient Russian name of the river is Terka, it repeats an ancient hydronym, probably of Turkic origin. According to E.M. Murzaev, the name of the river comes from the Turkic language, where Terek is “poplar”, and the entire river was called Tereksu - “Popolin River”. However, there are other hypotheses: for example, A.V. Superanskaya believes that the hydronym is based on the ancient Turkic (Xiongno-Bulgar) terek - “river”. The researcher draws a conclusion based on the wide distribution of the lexeme Terek in hydronyms (Ak-Terek, Kara-Terek, Uch-Terek, Ish-Terek, etc.), as well as due to the large size of these rivers. In the Karachay-Balkar language, “terk suu” means “fast, rushing water or river.” In ancient Georgian sources (“Life of Kartli” by Leonti Mroveli) this river is called Lomeki, which means “mountain water” in Chechen and Ingush.

Terek was admired by A. S. Pushkin, M. Yu. Lermontov and others.

Between the mountains<стен>Terek is rushing,

The wild shore is washed away by the waves,

Bubbling around huge rocks,

Here, [now there] he digs a road,

Like a living beast, roars and howls -

And suddenly he calmed down and became humble.

Lower and lower, falling lower,

He's running away barely alive.

So, after the storm, exhausted,

The stream flows like rain.

(A.S. Pushkin)

Geography

It originates on the slope of the Main Caucasus Range in the Trusovsky Gorge, from the glacier of Mount Zilga-Khokh at an altitude of 2,713 m above sea level. It flows through the territories of Georgia, North Ossetia, Kabardino-Balkaria, Stavropol Territory, Chechnya and Dagestan. The length of the river is 623 km, the basin area is 43,200 km². From the Kargaly hydroelectric complex it is called New Terek (sometimes in the literature the name Kargalinka is also used). In the lower reaches it is called Alikazgan (the name is presumably given after the village of Alikazgan, which was located near the modern Krainovsky Bridge). Average slope 4.40 m/km.

The first 30 km flows between the Main and Side ranges, then turns north and crosses the Side (in the Daryal Gorge), the Rocky Range and the Black Mountains; near the city of Vladikavkaz it opens onto a foothill plain, where it receives the full-flowing tributaries Gizeldon, Ardon, Urukh, Malku (with Baksan).

From the mouth of the Malka it flows in a sandy-clayey channel with numerous islands, spits and shoals; Below the mouth of the Sunzha it is divided into a number of branches and channels. It flows into the Agrakhan Gulf and the Caspian Sea, forming a delta (area about 4,000 km²); the position of the main channel in the delta section has changed several times (since 1914, most of the flow passes along the channel of the Kargaly breakthrough). The oxbow lakes of the river are the rivers that have now been turned into canals - Sullu-Chubutla, Stary Terek (Deltovy Canal), Srednyaya, Talovka, Kuru-Terek, Kardonka, etc. In 1957, at the top of the “Kargaly breakthrough”, the Kargaly hydroelectric complex was built, with the help which supplies water to the old branches of the Terek.

- a continuous mountain chain stretching more than 1100 km from northwest to southeast from the Black Sea (Anapa region) to the Caspian Sea (Mount Ilkhydag northwest of Baku). The Caucasus Range divides the Caucasus into two parts: Ciscaucasia (North Caucasus) and Transcaucasia (South Caucasus).

The Main Caucasus Range separates the basins of the Kuban, Terek, Sulak and Samur rivers in the north and the Inguri, Rioni and Kura rivers in the south.

The mountain system that includes the Main Caucasus Range is called the Greater Caucasus (or Greater Caucasus Range), in contrast to the Lesser Caucasus, a vast highland located south of the Rioni and Kura valleys and connected directly with the highlands of Western Asia.

For a more convenient overview, the Caucasus ridge can be divided along its length from west to east into seven parts:

Black Sea Caucasus (from the Anapa meridian to the Fisht - Oshten mountain group - approx. 265 km),

Kuban Caucasus (from Oshten to the source of the Kuban) - 160 km,

Elbrus Caucasus, or western (Karachay-Circassian) Elbrus region (from the source of the Kuban to the peak of Adai-Khokh) - 170 km,

Terek (Kazbek) Caucasus (from Adai-Khokh to the town of Barbalo) - 125 km,

Dagestan Caucasus (from Barbalo to the top of Sari-dag) - 130 km,

Samur Caucasus (from Sari-dag to Baba-dag) - approx. 130 km,

Caspian Caucasus (from Baba-dag to the peak of Ilkhydag) - approx. 170 km.

A more enlarged division is also accepted:

Western Caucasus (bounded from the east by Elbrus);

Central Caucasus;

Eastern Caucasus (bounded from the west by Kazbek).

The entire system of the Main Caucasus Range occupies approximately 2,600 km². The northern slope occupies about 1450 km², and the southern slope - about 1150 km².

The width of the Caucasus Range in the western (slightly west of Elbrus, and including the Elbrus mountain range) and eastern (Dagestan) parts is about 160...180 km, in the central - about 100 km; both ends taper greatly and are (especially the western) insignificant in width.

The highest is the middle part of the ridge, between Elbrus and Kazbek (average heights about 3,400 - 3,500 m above sea level); Its highest peaks are concentrated here, the highest of which - Elbrus - reaches an altitude of 5,642 m above sea level. m.; East of Kazbek and west of Elbrus, the ridge decreases, more significantly in the second direction than in the first.

In general, in height, the Caucasus Range significantly exceeds the Alps; it has no less than 15 peaks exceeding 5,000 m, and more than 20 peaks higher than Mont Blanc, the highest peak in all of Western Europe. The advanced elevations accompanying the Main Range, in most cases, do not have the character of continuous chains, but represent short ridges or mountain groups connected to the watershed ridge by spurs and broken in many places by deep river gorges, which, starting in the Main Range and breaking through the advanced elevations, descend to the foothills and emerge onto the plains.

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
TOURIST ROUTES IN MOUNTAIN DAGESTAN
Textbook of Geography of the Russian Federation.
http://www.geografia.ru/
http://www.photosight.ru/