Monastery of Mont Saint Michel. Mont Saint Michel. History of the Abbey. Visit to the monastery of Mont Saint-Michel
The castle, or rather the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, is one of the most beautiful, unusual and unique buildings not only in France, but also in the world. According to statistics, this place is on par with the Eiffel Tower in terms of popularity among tourist sites, which is truly impressive.
In the north-west of the province of Normandy, among the silt and sand, this fortress rises, occupying the entire island. It is the only inhabited one of the three located in the Bay of Saint-Michel. The island rises to a height of about 79 m and has a diameter of only 1 km.
The two provinces of Brittany and Normandy have not been able to divide the fortress island for many centuries. The border is the Couesnon River, which flows at the base of the fortress. Distance to Paris 285 km. In 1874, the island was given the status of a historical monument.
Since 1979 it has been under the protection of UNESCO.
The uniqueness of the fortress island lies in its location. Twice a lunar day (24 hours 50 minutes) the bay experiences high and low tides, the strongest on the European coast and the second in the world. This falls on the days of the spring and autumn equinox, as well as on the 2nd or 3rd day after the new full moon.
The water flows out to a distance of up to 18 km and spills down to 20 km. The duration of this natural phenomenon can occur within 8 hours in winter, an hour more in summer. The maximum water speed is 6 km/h.
There are several ways to get to the castle island. On weekends, Flixbus buses depart early in the morning from the Défense district of Paris and return late in the evening. Travel time is 5 hours, the cost of a round trip ticket is about 50 €.
On weekdays, a high-speed train departs from Montparnasse train station to Rennes. Then, you need to transfer to the local Keolys bus. It is possible to purchase a combined train-bus ticket. One way price is about 50 €.
If you travel by car, you will have to leave the car 12 km away in the village in a parking lot for 11.5 € per day, then cover the remaining distance by bus for free.
The bus itself is unusual - its walls are covered with wooden slats. The last 300 m must be covered on foot; in the Middle Ages this was done in a carriage. Now such a trip on horse-drawn transport will cost 5.3 € per person.
Climatic conditions, best time to travel
When choosing the time to travel to the castle-island, you need to focus on the weather forecast for the north of France, the province of Normandy. The special location near the ocean should be taken into account. The wind blows freely here, which is especially noticeable on the observation decks.
Due to the constantly wet sand around, there is often fog in winter, and high humidity in summer combined with the scorching rays of the sun. Of course, before walking near the mountain you need to know the tide schedule. After all, the water comes quickly, at the speed of a running person, and sometimes it can reach 40 km/h.
Local guides will tell you that in the old days, the wave swallowed up inattentive wanderers and even entire crews. The most favorable time to visit this “eighth wonder of the world,” as the French call it, is considered to be spring and autumn. There are a lot of tourists here in summer.
Transport
Every day, at intervals of several minutes, a bus runs between the island and the mainland. The first flight is at 7.30, the last one is at midnight. Electric buses have an unusual design: the driver's cabin is located in the front and rear. They were designed specifically for Mont Saint-Michel. Travel is free, travel time is 12 minutes.
There is a very interesting sightseeing bus that goes to Mont Saint-Michel. Its special feature is that it is double-sided! There is also an alternative transport: a cart pulled by a pair of Norman draft horses. Capacity 24 people, price 5 €.
Historical reference
Mont Saint-Michel (France) was originally built as a monastery. An unusual phenomenon of that time: all French castles were built for defense, in the form of defensive outposts. As legend has it, in 708, the Archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Aubert of Avranches and directed him to build a temple on Mogilny Hill (the first Christian hermits lived and died here).
The bishop, deciding that he had misinterpreted the vision, ignored it the first time and the second. Finally, for the third time, when the archangel burned a hole on Ober's head, he decided to begin construction.
According to the vision, it was at the site of the granite ledge that the meeting of two opposing forces took place: good and evil. The forces of light won, and it was in honor of this victory that the monastery was built. Over the course of 2 centuries, the island has become a place of pilgrimage.
Concerned about the popularity of the canons, Duke Richard I of Normandy replaced the local monks with Benedictines in 966. They were good builders. A small settlement was built for the pilgrims. A temple with adjacent buildings was erected on the top of the hill. 
Today, only one wall remains of the original structure, and the skull of Bishop Aubert is in the Basilica of Avranches. In 1204, the French captured Normandy and burned the monastery. To make amends, the French king decides to donate a huge sum to restore the monastery.
In the northern part of the island, the creation of the La Merveille complex began, which means miracle. Construction work lasted 17 years. In such an incredibly short period of time, a masterpiece of architecture appeared, recognized as an example of medieval Gothic.
By the 13th century, several hundred Benedictine monks lived within the walls of the abbey. During the Hundred Years' War, the abbey had an independent status and was protected by free knights. They successfully defended their home. Most of western France was then captured by the British. To this day, a list of free knights, defenders of the fortress, has been preserved on a stone slab.
The decline of the abbey's power began already during the Hundred Years' War. At the end of the 16th century, only 13 monks remained. In the 18th century, the monastery finally fell into disrepair and was closed during the French Revolution. Until 1863, the abbey building was used as a prison. Napoleon III announced its liquidation, and the monastery received the status of a historical monument. 
The abbey church has been subject to lightning strikes and fires more than once. To protect against natural phenomena, a 6-meter lightning rod in the form of a spire was installed in 1897. Today it is decorated with a decorative figure of Michael the Archangel with a sword. Over the years of its existence, the abbey church completely burned down and was rebuilt again. In 1966 the monks returned to the abbey.
The main stages of the history of the island - the abbey:
| Event | Time (century, year) |
| The appearance of the settlement | 708 |
| Construction of the abbey | XI – XV century |
| Causeway connecting the island to the mainland | 1879 |
| Historical monument status | Since 1874 |
| UNESCO listed as a World Heritage of Humanity | 1979 |
Getting to know the monastery, attractions
Entrance to the fortified city is free. After passing through the Royal Gate, then along the only street in the city, Grande Rue, there is an ascent along cobbled stone streets up to the abbey church.
Locals call this path the “outer great climb.” After all, the width of the street is only 2 m, the alleys that go to the side are very narrow, you even have to move sideways. How many mysteries do these ancient buildings contain... There are many shops and restaurants along the way. Previously, these were the houses of abbots. 
The city population, including the mayor, is no more than 30 people. They all work in the service sector and have small farmland. In the 19th century, as a result of reclamation work, land was freed for agricultural work. The meat of lambs raised here has a special taste and has been awarded the AOC quality mark. This happens thanks to grass irrigated with sea water.
So, further along the way is the Church of Joan of Arc. But what does this Maid of Orleans have to do with the abbey? After all, at the time of her execution in 1431, Mont Saint-Michel did not belong to the territory of France. It was a feudal independent city. 
There are 4 museums on the castle grounds:
Walking through the narrow stone labyrinth, in addition to shops, you come across a post office building on the way. This is a great opportunity to send a postcard from the Abbey to friends or yourself.
At the end of the main street, steep steps lead to the upper levels of the complex. This circumstance should be taken into account, since not everyone will be able to overcome such a rise. In front of it is the Church of St. Petra with a cemetery.
Tour of the Abbey
Most of the island, 55,000 square meters, is occupied by the Benedictine abbey - this is a unique and best example of French medieval architecture. Medieval craftsmen managed to “wrap” the granite cliff with stone buildings.
The structure of the church, consisting of two 3-story buildings, is supported on a platform 80 m long. The skill of calculations of the architects and builders of that time is amazing. This allows us to call San Michele a miracle of architects. There is a service in the church every day, admission is free. 
There is a fee to visit the upper tier, where religious attractions are concentrated. Price for adults is 10 €, children are free. The church of La Merveille consists of three floors. The guardroom is the fortified entrance to the abbey. The complex includes a cloister (inner courtyard), a hall for guests and a refectory.
The patio now looks flourishing, with arches around the perimeter. Initially there was just a stone bag that served as a place for prisoners to walk. There were no stone arches around the perimeter. The cloister became so at the beginning of the 20th century, and the garden appeared in 1965.
Immediately behind the cloister is the refectory or refectory. The floor was paved with tiles in 1968, and bas-reliefs on the walls appeared in 1991. The abbot received guests in the guest room. It contains two large fireplaces intended for cooking and heating food. 
Behind the guest room, through a gallery, visitors enter a former ossuary - a place where the bones of the dead removed from graves are kept. There is a huge wooden wheel installed in 1820 to lift food for prisoners and guards. Now it is a copy of that medieval one. The wheel was turned by 2 horses.
Mont Saint-Michel (France) has preserved to this day only some fragments of the interior of the abbey, dating from the 12th-15th centuries; the main part of the building dates back to the period of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The organ located in the temple was installed in 1965.
In the abbey complex there is a striptorial library with manuscripts recognized as part of the world cultural heritage. From the upper terrace there is a magnificent view of the surrounding area and the bay.
Until 2015, there was a dam connecting the monastery to the land. Parking was located right under the rock and was free. Under the pretext of a worsening environmental situation, it was decided to move the parking lot away from the island, demolish the dam and build a bridge.
Local kitchen
The city has restaurants and cafes where you can have a tasty meal at reasonable prices. There are no fancy French restaurants here. 
All places where you can eat are located on Grande Rue.
Among local dishes, seafood is especially popular, local lamb meat is especially good.
Guests are also offered the signature royal omelet “Mama Poulard”, which is cooked over an open fire, and buckwheat pancakes.
Service is quick everywhere, as the flow of tourists is huge at any time of the year. The average bill is 12-25 €, dinner with alcohol will cost 80-120 €. Sandwiches and snacks to take away cost 3-4 €.
Restaurants are usually located at hotels. Service in such establishments occurs slowly, but this does not bother visitors.
After all, through the panoramic windows of restaurants you can watch the ebb and flow of the tides or simply enjoy the landscape.
Where to stay
Travelers have a choice: stay in a hotel outside the walls or nearby in the town of La Caserne. In the city, all hotels are located on the main street. Despite the large number of hotels on the island, they are still not enough. Accommodation must be booked in advance.
Mont Saint-Michel (France) offers hotels located on the first floors of buildings from the 15th-16th centuries. The most popular is the La Mare Poulard 3* hotel. It is located in the city center, with excellent views of the bay, the abbey or ancient buildings. The local restaurant serves the famous omelet, and you can buy groceries in the shop. 
The hotel has free Wi-Fi, parking, and family rooms. Hiking and cycling excursions can be organized for guests. The cost of a double room in June 2019 is about 300 €.
Auberge Saint Pierre is considered the best hotel according to tourists. It is located at the very top of the mountain in a 14th-century timber-framed mansion. The hotel features elegant French interiors. There are two-level rooms. Buffet breakfast, Wi-Fi. Room price is about 200 €. On the territory of the castle there are only 9 hotels of 2-4 stars, there is a camping site open from February 15 to November 11.
La Caserne offers more comfortable hotel rooms, convenient parking and a vibrant nightlife. Room price in a 2* hotel from 55 €. There are no hostels in the area; you can stay at the auberges de jeunesse - a youth hostel.
There may be age restrictions, for example up to 30 years. You can rent a room in a private house; perhaps conversations with local residents will help you learn a lot more about the fortress island. 
There are large hotels and motels along Highway D-976, closest to the island. There is a railway station 6 km from the island in the town of Pontorson, and buses leave regularly to the fortress. For example, there are good restaurants in the Hotel Montgomery in an old building and in Bretagne.
Shopping
On the lower tier of the main street there are all the shops and souvenir shops. Tourists take home ceramics, porcelain and copper products. Tablecloths, alabaster figurines of chimeras, and sets of knightly armor at huge prices are in great demand.
The abbey sells numerous booklets, gift books and guides. The prices are quite affordable. You can bring butter cookies “from Mother Poulard”, Brittany pies “Quin-aman” and salted caramel.
The shop “Aux 3 Croissants” sells traditional Brittany and Normandy carpets, woven items, jewelry, and porcelain.
Excursion programs
A ticket purchased to visit the abbey entitles you to join one of the excursions, which are conducted in several languages. Duration 45 -60 minutes. The tour schedule is posted at the entrance to the complex. In July and August the abbey is open to visitors in the evening.
From 7.00 to 21.00 you can walk through the gardens every day. When video and music equipment is installed in the abbey, you can stay on the premises until 24.00. Visit from 21.00, price for adults 10 €, from 13 to 24 years old – 7 €.
One of the most unusual islands in the world, Mont Saint-Michel captivates with its uniqueness, mystery, and antiquity. France is no less proud of the abbey than the famous Eiffel Tower.
Article format: Vladimir the Great
Video about Mont Saint Michel
Documentary about Mont Saint Michel:
The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy is a medieval active monastery, as well as a fortress on the island of the same name. It is located in the north-west of France, in the vast Bay of Saint-Michel, famous for its tidal waves, rare in height for Europe, reaching 14 meters.
More than two million tourists come to admire the medieval fortress-monastery every year, making Mont Saint-Michel the second most popular attraction in France (after the Eiffel Tower).
Chateau Mont Saint-Michel: opening hours and ticket prices in 2019
Opening hours:
- May 2 - August 31: from 9:00 to 19:00,
- January 2 - April 30: from 9:30 to 18:00,
- September 1 - December 31: from 9:30 to 18:00.
The entrance closes an hour earlier.
Ticket prices:
- adult – 10 euros,
- for non-EU residents aged 18 to 25 years - 8 euros,
- for children (under 18 years old), disabled people with an accompanying person, EU residents aged 18 to 25 years old - free.
The cost of the audio guide is 3 euros.
Tidal island of Mont Saint Michel
The rock of Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy is a granite monolith 80 meters high with a rounded base, standing at the mouth of the Couesnon River. The area of the rocky island is 7 hectares.
At intervals of 24 hours and 50 minutes, the bay experiences high and low tides, the most powerful in Europe. During low tide, water moves 18 kilometers away from the island and floods the coast for 20 kilometers during high tide.
After low tide, you can walk around the mountain, but you shouldn’t go far from the foot - there is a chance of wandering into quicksand. Mont Saint-Michel becomes a full-fledged island only several times a year, with the onset of large tides.
Previously, a dam led to the island, on the site of which there is now a bridge. It was decided to remove the artificial embankment due to the ambiguous environmental situation: due to the dam, a large amount of sand settled around the island, thereby gradually connecting the island with the mainland. After the dam was removed, river waters began to wash the island on both sides, preventing sand sediments from accumulating.
The climate in the Bay of Saint-Michel is temperate maritime: with cool summers and mild but rainy winters. In general, the weather here is the same as throughout Normandy, but there are some peculiarities, for example, during winter low tides, wet sea sand causes frequent fogs, and in summer, due to high humidity, it becomes extremely stuffy.
History and architecture
Legend has it that the first shrine on this site was built in 807 by Saint Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, after the appearance of the Archangel Michael to him. By the way, Mont Saint-Michel is translated as Mount Saint Michael.
Construction of the abbey began with the arrival in 966 of Benedictine monks, invited by the Duke of Normandy Richard I, to the place of the community of canons who had occupied the mountain since the 8th century. The monastery soon became an important religious center, attracting pilgrims from all over Europe.
Mont Saint-Michel suffered from fires more than once and was besieged, after which it was reconstructed and acquired new extensions, each time acquiring a new look. Centuries later, the abbey managed to convey to this day not only the works of several generations of builders, but also an important part of the history of France.
Interesting fact The castle of Mont Saint-Michel is often mentioned in literature and serves as the backdrop for many films and videos, and in Peter Jackson’s film trilogy “The Lord of the Rings” it even served as a prototype for the fortress of Minas Tirith.
Abbey structure
The main feature of the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey was its multi-level building. For more than 500 years, medieval architects managed to create a unique architectural ensemble entwined with a huge granite cliff. Three levels can be clearly distinguished:
- Top level, including the Church of St. Michael, the monastery gallery, the refectory, a viewing platform overlooking the bay, the Cancale rock and the archipelago of the Chauzet Islands, where the granite for the abbey was mined.
- Average level with a guest hall, a monastic ossuary (a hall containing the remains of the deceased), the chapel of Saint-Etienne, a covered gallery for walks, a knight's hall and a crypt of large columns supporting the Gothic choir of the monastery church.
- Lower level, where the guardroom, the Grand Degre staircase and the almshouse are located.
Romanesque buildings of the monastery
The first buildings on Mont Saint-Michel were crypts (vaulted semi-underground rooms), which became a kind of foundation for the future central building of the monastery - the Church of St. Michael. Later, construction began on the nave of the new church and quarters for the monks.
The most significant changes occurred in the second half of the 12th century, under Abbot Robert de Torigny. A library with an impressive collection of manuscripts was created, the last Romanesque buildings and the large staircase leading to the new entrance to the abbey were completed.
The monastery and castle architecture of those times was called Romanesque (from the Latin romanus - Roman). It is characterized by rounded arches, thick walls and massive vaults.
After the death of Torigny, the first difficulties befell the abbey - a siege and a large fire, as a result of which the northern side of the monastery complex was badly damaged. Subsequently, the abbey underwent many more tests and was rebuilt several times, gradually acquiring its modern appearance.
Complex "Miracle"
In the 13th century, the construction of the first Gothic buildings began, the so-called ensemble of buildings La Merveille, literally “miracle”. Over the course of 17 years, the workers managed to build everything necessary for monastic life, including refectories for monks and pilgrims, a kitchen, cellars, a monastery courtyard with an internal gallery, as well as a hall where the monks worked on copying and compiling books, called the knight's hall.
They also did not forget about the previously destroyed northern wall, strengthening it with the help of stone stiffeners - buttresses. The design of the new wall turned out to be successful, not only from a practical point of view, but also from an aesthetic one. Victor Hugo even called it the most beautiful wall in Europe.
Further fate
After the French Revolution, the monastic brethren left the monastery, and a prison was opened within the walls of the monastery, calling it Mont Libre (Mountain of Freedom). The prison continued its work until 1863.
At the end of the 19th century, the last significant reconstruction of the Church of St. Michael was completed and a dam was built connecting the island with the mainland.
In 1966, the monks returned to the monastery again. Today they are holding services again in Mont Saint-Michel.
In 1979, the unique natural and historical site was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
St. Michael's Church
The main attraction of the island is the Church of St. Michael, which combines architectural elements in Romanesque and Gothic styles. Before it, there was a small sanctuary in the pre-Romanesque style on the island - Notre-Dame-sous-Terre, built in the Carolingian era.
Construction began in 1022, funded by the Duke of Normandy, Richard II. However, the implementation of the project was hampered by the complex terrain and the small size of the granite site (no more than 70 meters at its widest point). Then, as a basis for the future temple, several crypts were built around the top of the rock, and the existing church of Notre-Dame-sous-Terre was also used. Later, a transept (transverse nave) was erected, the crosspiece of which rested directly on the mountain.
All subsequent years, the church was completed and remodeled, both due to the danger of collapse, and at the behest of the new abbots. So by 1521 it was rebuilt in the then modern “flaming Gothic” style, while preserving the Romanesque transept.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the bell tower and transept were redone, and a neo-Gothic spire was added, with a gilded figure of the Archangel Michael.
The ancient town of Mont Saint-Michel
In addition to the monastic buildings, the island has a working settlement, with a town hall, shops, a parish church, a cemetery and winding old streets with half-timbered houses. The entire city is home to 50 permanent residents, mostly employed in the service sector.
The main street - Grande Rue - is occupied by dense rows of houses from the 15th-16th centuries, with bars, cafes, snack bars, souvenir shops and museums. The street leads to the main attraction of the island - the Church of St. Michael. In addition to the Grand Rue, there are many other streets in the city, some of which do not even have names. They are always quiet and uncrowded, since most excursions do not touch them.
Walk around the castle on Google panoramas
How to get to Mont Saint-Michel Abbey in France
The medieval monastery is located 300 kilometers west of Paris. There are several ways to overcome this distance, more about each of them below.
By car
The fastest and most comfortable way is to rent a car and drive yourself. The drive will take about 4 hours in total. The optimal route is as follows: from Paris along the A13 highway to the city of Caen, then turn onto the E401 to Avranches and through Pontorson on the D976 to the parking lot at Saint-Michel. The A13 is a toll road, as is parking at the abbey.
Route from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Mont Saint-Michel Abbey along the A13 highway - Google Maps
Local taxi services: Alpha Taxis, Taxi G7, LeCab, Mob1Taxi.
By bus
The cheapest way to get to Mont Saint-Michel is by bus. Direct flights from Paris to the Abbey are provided by Flixbus. Transport departs every weekend early in the morning. The duration of the trip is approximately 5 hours. You can view the schedule and book a ticket on the carrier’s website.
By train from Paris
On weekdays, the best option is to take the high-speed TGV train. From Gare Montparnasse you can take it to Rennes or Dol de Bretagne, and then take a local bus to the abbey. A single ticket for train and bus can be purchased on the official website of SNCF. The duration of the trip is comparable to that of a bus - about 5 hours.
The path from the parking lot to the abbey
The car park, where tourist buses also arrive, is located three kilometers from the abbey. Starting from 7:30 a.m. until 00:00, electric buses run between the attraction and the parking lot at intervals of a couple of minutes. They reach their destination in about 10 minutes. Travel is free.
There is also a more exotic option - a horse-drawn carriage with a carriage. A one-way ticket costs 5 euros. Travel time ~ 25 minutes.
Those who want to feel like a real pilgrim can walk; the journey in this case will take about 35 minutes.
video
The castle of Mont Saint-Michel is one of the most popular attractions in France, striking with its unusualness and literally fabulous view! After all, a monastery on a rock sticking out of the watery abyss simply cannot help but look stunning
At the very top of the rock, at an altitude of almost 80 meters, the walls of the ancient abbey rise to the sky, and at the end of its spire, located at an altitude of 155.5 meters above sea level, stands a golden figurine of an archangel with a sharpened sword. Mont Saint Michel protected by the sea on all sides and only a 2-kilometer-long dam connects the mainland with the island
Victor Hugo was so impressed by Mont Saint-Michel that he nicknamed it “The Pyramid in the Ocean”
The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is the most visited place in France after Paris. Two regions are arguing over the territorial affiliation of this unique corner - Brittany and Normandy. Nevertheless, it is generally accepted that the border between them is drawn along the Coueson River running in the coastal sands, which does not testify in favor of Brittany. There is even a French proverb about this: “Couenon went crazy, so Mont Saint-Michel ended up in Normandy.”
The entrance to the castle starts at the Royal Gate. From here, the only street extends into the interior of the island - Grande Rue. In tiny, almost toy houses of the 15th-16th centuries, huddled together on two sides of the street, today there are cafes, restaurants, hotels and tents with a variety of souvenirs.
There are several versions of the origin of the island of Mont Saint-Michel. The first, the most plausible, states that at the beginning of the 8th century, after a strong storm in this part of the English Channel, the coastline changed. Part of the coastal meadows and forests disappeared under water and then covered with sand, and two rocky hills became islands. The largest among them, Mont Tombe (French for “Tomb Hill”), now bears the name Mont Saint-Michel. The little one is named Tombelen (“Little Grave”).
According to the second version, both rocks were dragged into the sea by giants - the parents of Gargantua. Grangousier, his father, as is customary among men, carried the heaviest of the stones - Mont Tombe, and Gargamelle, Gargantua's mother, carried Tombelen. But the giants got tired and threw these stones close to the shore. Gargantua also contributed to the contours of the local relief, creating the Couesnon River. How, according to legend, he did this, I won’t tell you, you can guess for yourself...
With a lock Mont Saint Michel There are a huge number of legends associated with it. According to one of them, in 708 the Archangel Michael came to Archbishop Aubert in a dream. The Archangel ordered the bishop to dedicate to him the rock, already almost completely covered by the sea. Ober did not carry out this order, for fear of becoming a victim of his imagination. The same vision was repeated many times in the future. Then the archangel could not tolerate such disobedience and stuck his finger into Ober’s head. In order to finally convince the bishop and other Christians, he created many miracles here. By the way, the legend is a legend, but in Ober’s skull, scientists actually found a hole) It could have been caused, for example, by a battle wound or trepanation during brain surgery, or maybe the archangel actually poked his finger :)
The Monastery of St. Michael was built for a very long time - from the 11th to the 16th centuries. The Vikings settled here, William the Conqueror set out for England from here, and many kings lived here. During the Hundred Years' War between France and England, Mont Saint-Michel was the last French stronghold in Normandy, never captured by the enemy... It was never conquered, once even surviving a 30-year siege - in history it remained an impregnable castle. The castle was conquered only by tourists - today it is visited by more than 3 million tourists every year - only Paris and Versailles are more popular
The monastery of Mont Saint-Michel was closed a long time ago - back in 1790! Several decades later, ironically, the most dangerous criminals and scoundrels were imprisoned here - the castle turned into a state prison for half a century. Because of this, it is popularly called the “provincial Bastille”. Only in 1863, after a major restoration, did it open its Royal doors again, but for tourists.
Tourists admire not only the architectural delights of Mont Saint-Michel - the reason is that nowadays it becomes an island only 2 times a year. This happens due to the fact that over the past centuries the sea has receded - now most of the time the castle is surrounded by sands, but 2 times a year (during the autumn and spring equinoxes) during strong tides it becomes an island. In just one day, the water level rises by as much as 10 meters - these are the most powerful tides in all of France, and at low tide the sea retreats from the shores by 25 kilometers!
By the way, if Mont Saint-Michel seemed familiar to someone, it is probably due to the fact that the island-castle was the prototype for the fortress of Minas Tirith in the popular film “The Lord of the Rings”
Tell me, dear readers, do angels often visit you in your dreams and give you tasks? Does it happen that when you do not fulfill the demands of the angels, they hit you on the head, so much so that in the morning a dent remains on your head? No, no, everything is fine with me, it’s just thanks to such a miracle that we owe the appearance of the most beautiful place in France - the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. And this is not a medieval pious legend at all, because... British scientists actually discovered a dent on the skull of the founder of the monastery. But first things first.
On an early and pleasantly warm August morning, we rode out on bikes. On this day we needed to get to the island of Mont Saint-Michel. The distance from the famous abbey is approximately 45 km, and after yesterday, when we strained ourselves a little on the shorter route from , I decided not to rush and save energy.
Fortunately, the road was very conducive to this. Almost immediately, a wonderful bike path began from Fougères. In general, there are quite a lot of them in Brittany. I provided a link to a map of cycling roads in Brittany. The fact is that previously there were many railway tracks that crossed the entire region in different directions. But at the end of the last century they fell into disrepair, and the authorities decided to demolish the rails and in their place create such a gift for cyclists. Because They try to make railway tracks with a minimum slope and as straight as possible, so traveling along such a route is a pleasure. Some of them stretch for tens of kilometers, on our route we coincided with the path for a little less than 10 km, but still I received extremely pleasant emotions, even on such a short section.
When the path ended, or rather, we turned off it, because... she went west towards Saint-Malo, and we had to go east, towards the border with Normandy., then the road still remained very pleasant. We passed picturesque villages.
This time I tried not to drive, but to stop in beautiful places, relax and take pictures. Isn't that great?
There were no strong slopes, then when I checked the tracker, it turned out that the balance had shifted towards the descent. Those. We rode downhill most of the time. The landscapes on the sides of the road looked something like this.
How can you not stop here?
Finally, we reached the Brittany border with.
It would seem that the regions are very close, but it seemed to me that the villages in Normandy looked richer. Many houses are interestingly decorated, for example, someone obviously lives with connections to the sea, there is a lighthouse and a ship’s propeller in front of the house.
Even the churches began to look different, although they moved only a few kilometers from Brittany.
In general, this time the 40 km to our hotel flew by unnoticed, although we made many stops and drove for almost three hours according to the tracker. But we hardly got tired.
And when, on the horizon behind the next field, I saw a tiny mountain, I was wildly delighted! It was a real state of catharsis when, after two days of torment, I finally found my little paradise.
We checked into the hotel Le Beauvoir in the village of the same name, about 5-6 km from Mont Saint-Michel. You could, of course, book a hotel right on the island, but for our dates the most budget option started at 250 euros per night. Even taking into account that we divided all the expenses between two (i.e. it turned out to be approximately 9 thousand each), I still decided that, taking into account that we were on bikes, a very decent hotel for 70 euros just 5 km away was much more reasonable. Just think, it’s a 15-minute drive, so there’s no point in spending money on housing on the island.
Hotel Le Beauvoir turned out to be quite worthy (7.5 rating on booking). The most important thing is that they had their own parking lot and even a garage for motorcycles and bicycles. Great! In general, the question that worries many people is where to spend the night relatively inexpensively, but at the same time decently, in Mont-Saint-Michel has been successfully resolved.
http://www.booking.com/hotel/fr/le-beauvoir-beauvoir.ru.html
By the way, the photo was taken just from the hotel. The location is great.
Of course, we couldn’t wait to get to the island faster. I lay down a little in the hotel... and slept for almost two hours, the angels in my sleep did not bother me. After which we wanted to have lunch, so we left for Mont Saint-Michel only around four o’clock. On the way from the island I made one mistake. I should have ridden my bike straight to the entrance, but I was afraid that there would be no place to leave my bike there. So we tied our bikes up in one of the parking lots and walked the remaining couple of kilometers. So, I will say that it is quite possible to leave bicycles right on the island, everyone does so. More precisely, they tie them to the railings of the bridge that leads to Mont Saint-Michel. Well, oh well, but we had a great walk. Maybe it even worked out better. Because We had enough time.
I realized that Mont Saint-Michel produces the main effect on tourists due to its surprise. All around stretches an absolute flat plain, some colorless sandy plains, withered grass, an endless expanse of water, and suddenly in the middle of this melancholy landscape, like an atomic explosion, a mountain with a city and a monastery forms. The eyes don’t believe it at first, but as you get closer, Mont Saint-Michel turns from a miracle and a mirage into a real and fleshy mass of stones.
This year, Mont-Saint-Michel completed the reconstruction of the entrance to the island. And now, instead of a stupid dam, an elegant bridge leads to the island. What’s nice is that all parking lots have been removed from the immediate vicinity of this miracle and now you can enjoy the views to the fullest.
Church of Saint-Pierre.
Favorite half-timbered building.
Well, well, the sun is starting to set. We must hurry to see the sunset.
La Mère Poulard is not only a souvenir shop (on the right in the photo), but also the most famous and delicious omelette in France.
http://www.merepoulard.com/
This restaurant cooks Aunt Annette's omelettes over an open fire. Auntie is quite greedy, so one hundred grams of the famous omelette will cost you at least 25 euros. We decided to ignore this attraction.
Well, the sun had set and it was time to head back to the hotel. I strongly recommend checking the tide schedule for Mont Saint-Michel, I think you can easily find it online. You can experience a unique natural show when the surrounding area is flooded with water before your eyes. But in our case, nothing like this was expected, so we went back to our village with a clear conscience.
We walked backwards, because... We couldn’t stop admiring the evening views of Mont Saint-Michel. As a result of the walk, I was very impressed. Yes, during the time that I have been blogging, I constantly see reports on Mont Saint-Michel in the feed and in communities. It would seem that the place is completely hackneyed, but still pictures are pictures, but in reality it is very catchy.
At this rate, we returned to the hotel only at 11 pm, and of course, there were no places left for dinner in our village. Fortunately, there was a bar in the hotel, and Olka had sausage and baguette left over from yesterday’s picnic in Vitre. I decided to surprise Olka with the wine we had last year, I mean Gewürztraminer, of course. So we had a very “hearty” dinner with a bottle of wine for two and, full of impressions, went to bed. Tomorrow we had to hit the road again to Saint-Malo, and the journey was even longer than today.
The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is the most visited attraction in France after Paris. And if you've ever seen a photograph of him, you probably understand why this is so. It looks simply magical and fabulous. It can be seen from several tens of kilometers around. A huge ancient castle on a high mountain, surrounded by the sea, which retreats several kilometers from the foot of the mountain in the morning, and quickly returns in the evening, what could be more beautiful?
Currently, the island has only a few dozen inhabitants. The total number of visitors to the complex per year is 1.5 - 1.8, and according to some sources - up to 3.5 million people, and about 650 thousand tourists come to the abbey in July-August.
In this article I will talk about how you can visit this unique historical site, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on your own, how much it will cost and what you can see outside the walls of the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey. And how to best plan your visit so as not to miss anything.
How to get to Mont Saint Michel
You can take a tour from Paris and they will do everything for you.
By car
You can rent a car, this is especially beneficial if you are 3-4 people; travel by public transport in this case can cost a pretty penny. The car can be found on the rental car metasearch engine . The distance from Paris to Mont Saint-Michel is only 358 km, the journey takes no more than 4 hours along the highway; if you wish, you can do it in one day, but to see the ebb and flow of the tides it is better to stay overnight.
By public transport
You can get there by public transport from Paris. To do this you will have to use three types of transport.
- You need to take the TGV high-speed train to Rennes at Montparnasse station, travel time 2 hours, website for purchasing tickets voyages-sncf.com, the site is available in Russian.
- In Rennes, change to a regional train to Pontorson station, travel time 48 minutes, website for purchasing train tickets www.sncf.com Purchasing tickets through the website is recommended as it can be cheaper than at the station ticket office. The site is available in English.
- Direct bus to Mont Saint Michel.
The cost of the trip can vary from 35 € to 100 €; it is recommended to buy tickets three months in advance; in this regard, renting a car may be much more relevant.
Parking
Cost: 30 minutes free, up to 2 hours 6-30 €, day 12 €. Two hours is absolutely not enough for a thorough inspection of the abbey. There are many parking workers, they professionally fill the parking lot, leaving not a single empty space. That is, we are definitely ready for a large influx of tourists in Mont Saint Michel.
Previously, parking was under the very walls of Mont Saint-Michel, but now everything is different. Parking is on the mainland.
We arrived at Mont Saint-Michel at about 10 am, 07/14/2013 (the day promised to be hot.
Tourist information center
First of all, we headed to the tourist information center. There you can watch a short video presentation of the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel in 3D, there are also toilets, brochures and models of the abbey. There we learned that active construction of the bridge was underway and the dam would be demolished. The dam has existed since 1879 and has caused waterlogging in the surrounding areas. At the moment (2016) the bridge has already been completed.
There are several hotels right on the island, they are located in old historical buildings. It is better to choose hotels on the mainland in the immediate vicinity of the abbey, so that you can walk to the sea in the evening and watch the tide.
The Grand Rue, the main street, begins right outside the gates of the abbey; almost every French city has its own Grand Rue, for example in. This street is lined with souvenir shops and cafes, the prices are steep, but this is the second most visited place in France after Paris, that says it all. The crowd of people in July was very dense.
Main Street (Grand Rue) 
All buildings of the abbey are on three levels. First you need to climb to the very top of the church, and then, during the descent, inspect different rooms, going out to observation decks to enjoy the views.
There is shade on the Main Street, so it’s comfortable to walk along it, but the stairs are partially in the sun, which makes it a little hot.
Entrance to the Abbey And a little more to the top.
Everyone here is already entering through the side door into the ancient church.
Mass in the Abbey Church of Mont Saint-Michel
We were lucky and got to witness Sunday mass. For me personally, it was more like a theatrical performance than religious worship. There were only tourists in the church and almost all of them were filming what was happening on their phones. There was a rope hanging from the crosshairs of the church and the monk (see photo below) swung on it for a while and everyone heard the bell ringing, then this monk turned to face us and it turned out that it was a woman.
Mass is going on in the church The breadth of European morals never ceases to amaze me. Next came a procession of clergy dressed in elegant church clothes, this time they were men. Then the priest ascended the pulpit and began to preach, at which point we left the mass. When entering the church, no one puts scarves on their heads, I mean women, and does not cover their shoulders, i.e. it is no longer an active church, but a tourist attraction.
From the church you can immediately get to the highest observation deck. Look at the new facade of the church, despite the fact that the facade is new, it has already managed to grow with lichen. The top of the spire is decorated with the figure of St. Michael. The spire was built already in the 19th century.
New façade The observation deck offers stunning views of the sea at low tide.
View of Tombelen Island From the church you can go straight to the cloister. This cloister was built in 1965. It is very beautiful, such a small cozy garden, the clicking of camera shutters rightly announces it.
Cloister On the first, topmost tier there is also an extensive refectory with two huge fireplaces. The first tier was given to the monks.
Refectory, we can draw a conclusion about the number of people in July 
Huge abbey fireplace, you can see the sky through the chimney, there are 2 identical fireplaces nearby The history of the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel dates back to 708. Naturally, not all buildings were built at once. Construction went on for centuries. According to legend, Saint Michael appeared to Bishop Aubert three times and three times ordered him to build a temple on Mount Mont Tomb. The following bas-relief illustrates this legend. This bas-relief is installed in the passage to the second tier of the abbey.
Archangel Michael appears to Bishop Ober The second tier is dedicated to the military, knights. Since in the Middle Ages there were a lot of robbers who wanted to profit at the expense of others, the military played their role in protecting the abbey, it was impossible to do without them. In addition to just robbers, the abbey also had to resist military invasions. But fortunately, the high rock was very well guarded by the sea and it was difficult to storm the mountain, protected by the daily ebb and flow of the tides.
In the Hall of the Large Columns there are as many as 10 columns with a diameter of 5 meters. Only four of us managed to hug such a column. Such thick columns were built to support the upper tier.
Crypt of the Great Columns The oldest room preserved in the abbey is the Saint-Martin crypt. It exists in the same form in which it was built in 1050.
Crypt Saint Martin In the Middle Ages, Mont Saint-Michel became an important place of pilgrimage. In the 10th century, Benedictine monks settled in the abbey, and a village began to grow down the mountainside, which in the 16th century reached the foot of the cliff.
Knight's hall with two fireplaces Having remained an impregnable fortress during the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is a striking example of military architecture. Its walls and fortifications withstood all attacks by the British and turned the mountain into a symbolic place of national identity.
During the revolution, the activities of the religious community were stopped and until 1863 the abbey was used as a prison. In 1874, Mont Saint-Michel was given the status of a historical monument and the abbey became the subject of extensive restoration work.
Since then and to this day, restoration work has not stopped, covering more and more areas of the abbey. Restoration work allows visitors to meet again the former splendor of the abbey, which the inhabitants of the Middle Ages imagined as a heavenly Jerusalem on earth, a prototype of paradise.
The heat does not interfere with visiting the abbey. On the way up, narrow streets provide protection from the scorching sun, and coolness reigns inside, preserved by thick ancient walls. Mont Saint Michel is an absolute must see in France and Normandy in particular. This is a completely unique monument of medieval religious architecture.
In the Middle Ages, numerous pilgrims flocked here, and now numerous tourists, in general, little has changed. Mont Saint-Michel continues to attract many thousands of people with its unique beauty and originality. Unfortunately, we didn’t walk around on the sand, it was very hot, we didn’t see the night lights, so there’s a reason to come back.