The Golan Heights in the history and fate of Israel. Northeast redoubt of the state of Israel Golan Israel map

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The Golan Heights is a disputed territory in the Middle East, currently controlled by Israel. Until 1967, it was part of the Syrian province of Quneitra, captured by Israel during the.

In 1981, the Israeli Knesset adopted the “”, which unilaterally proclaimed Israeli sovereignty over this territory. The annexation was declared invalid by UN Security Council Resolution No. 497 of December 17, 1981.

Both Israel and Syria consider the Golan Heights to be part of their territory.

Geography

The Golan Heights are a mountain plateau of volcanic origin, extending east from (Lake Kinneret) and, and further into Syria. Most of it is located at an altitude of more than 1000 m above sea level. The area of ​​the Golan Heights occupied by Israel is about 1,150 km² with a length of 60 km and an average width of 25 km.

In the west, the plateau drops steeply towards the Sea of ​​Galilee, in the south and southeast it is limited by a deep and narrow gorge. There are no clear natural boundaries in the east. Most of the Golan Plateau is located in Syria.

The highest point on the Israeli-controlled part of the Golan Heights is 2236 m high. The territory occupied by Israel accounts for 7% of the Hermon range, and the highest point on Syrian territory reaches 2814 m. At least from November to March, the peak of Hermon is covered with snow. Israel built there.

Agriculture is well developed and consists of numerous orchards (apples, cherries), berries (raspberries, strawberries). Grape growing and winemaking enjoy great success.

At the southwestern tip of the plateau there are thermal springs known since Roman times.

The Golan Heights are quite a picturesque place. There are numerous nature reserves, streams and waterfalls here. The climate of the Golan is very temperate. Thanks to the altitude, it is not very hot here in summer and quite cold in winter, relative to the rest of Israel.

Precipitation is relatively plentiful and flows into the nearby Galilee, from which Israel obtains much of its drinking water. According to various estimates, up to a third of the water consumed in Israel comes from the Golan Heights

Story

Archaeological excavations in the Golan have revealed many archaeological sites from the biblical, Roman and medieval eras. A large number of ancient finds that shed light on the history of the Golan Heights are on display at the Golan Antiquities Museum in the city and at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

The most ancient sights of the Golan Heights include a megalith of the late Copper - Early Bronze Age.

Archaeological excavations began at the end of the 19th century. and which became systematic only after the Six-Day War, many architectural monuments were discovered, indicating the existence of a large Jewish population there at least from the time and up to the 7th century.

In November 1917, the British Foreign Secretary (and previously Prime Minister) Lord Arthur Balfour issued a statement in which the British Government stated that it “looks favorably on the establishment in Palestine of a homeland for the Jewish people and will use all its possibilities to hasten the achievement of this goals…". The main motive for supporting the idea of ​​​​creating a Jewish national state in Palestine was to gain the sympathy of world Jewry at the end of the First World War (this was especially true for American Jews).

The fighting on the Palestine front ended only in October 1918 with the signing. Shortly after defeat in World War I, the Ottoman Empire collapsed.

Mandates

In April 1920, after the First World War, a meeting of the Supreme Council of the Entente Powers and the states that joined them was held in the city of San Remo (Italy), where the distribution of class “A” mandates of the League of Nations for the management of the territories of the former Ottoman Empire in the Middle East took place. In accordance with the Balfour Declaration of 1917, the League of Nations included the Golan Heights. The mandated territory, where, as stated in the text of the sixth paragraph of the mandate, “the settlement of lands by Jews was encouraged,” was carved out along the geographical boundaries of Eretz Israel.

At the same time, in 1920, the Syrian Arab Kingdom was founded with its center in Damascus. Faisal from the Hashemite dynasty, who later became the king of Iraq, was declared king. But Syria's independence did not last long. Within a few months, the French army occupied Syria, defeating Syrian troops on July 23 at the Battle of Maysalun Pass.

In 1922, the League of Nations decided to divide the former Syrian dominion of Turkey between Great Britain and France. Great Britain received Palestine, including modern Jordan, and France received modern territory of Syria and Lebanon (the so-called “League of Nations Mandate”). The League of Nations, based on the decisions of the San Remo conference, awarded Great Britain a mandate for Palestine, explaining this by the need to “establish in the country political, administrative and economic conditions for the safe formation of a Jewish national home.”

The British Mandate for Palestine was supposed to come into force in September 1923, but England transferred the Golan Heights to France in March 1923, and they became part of Syria and Lebanon.

From that time on, attempts by Jews to establish settlements here met with constant opposition from the French authorities of Mandatory Syria. The French Mandate existed until 1943.

In 1936, a treaty was signed between Syria and France providing for Syrian independence, but in 1939 France refused to ratify it.

In 1940, France itself was occupied by German troops, and Syria came under the control of the Vichy regime (governor - General Denz). Nazi Germany, having provoked the rebellion of Prime Minister Geilani in British Iraq, sent units of its air force to Syria. In June–July 1941, with the support of British troops, units of Free France (later renamed Fighting France) led by generals Charles de Gaulle and Catroux entered Syria during a bloody conflict with Denz's troops. General de Gaulle in his memoirs directly indicated that the events in Iraq, Syria and Lebanon were directly related to German plans to invade the USSR (as well as Greece, including the island of Crete, and Yugoslavia), since they had the task of diverting armed forces Allied forces to secondary theaters of war.

On September 27, 1941, France granted independence to Syria, leaving its troops on its territory until the end of World War II.

In January 1944, Syria declared independence, and the Golan territory was included in the state borders of Syria. After this, the creation of Jewish settlements in the Golan Heights became absolutely impossible. Syrian independence was recognized on April 17, 1946.

Independent Syria

On May 14, 1948, one day before the end of the British Mandate for Palestine, he proclaimed the creation of an independent Jewish state on the territory allocated according to the UN plan. The very next day, the League of Arab States declared war on Israel, and immediately five Arab states (Syria, Egypt, Lebanon, Iraq and Transjordan) attacked the new country, thereby beginning what is called in Israel the “War of Independence.”

On July 20, 1949, following the results of the war, an Armistice Agreement was concluded between Israel and Syria.

At the end of the war, the Syrians covered the Golan with a network of artillery positions and fortifications to bombard Jewish settlements and the Sea of ​​Galilee region, subordinating the entire economy of the region to military needs. As a result of systematic shelling of Israeli territory from these positions, from 1948 to 1967. 140 Israelis were killed and many were wounded.

Israeli occupation since 1967

On June 9-10, 1967, during the Six-Day War, Israeli troops launched an offensive and, after 24 hours of heavy fighting, occupied the Golan Heights. Thus, the Golan Heights, having come under Syrian control in 1944 after the termination of the French mandate, were under Syrian control for 23 years.

In the late 1970s, the government granted Israeli citizenship to Syrian citizens living in the Heights, and in November 1981, Israel officially annexed the Golan Heights, extending its jurisdiction over it. The act did not receive international recognition.

Today, about 39 thousand people live in the Golan. Of the Syrian settlements, 4 villages remain: Majdal Shams, Masaada (local pronunciation - Masade), Bukata and Ein Kiniye; most of their inhabitants are .

A large number of old Syrian minefields remain in the Golan Heights. Most of them are fenced off and marked with warning signs, but they are not neutralized. As a result, natural nature has been preserved in a large area and there are places where no human has actually set foot since 1967.

Since the beginning of 2011, units began laying new minefields in the Golan Heights. The decision to mine the border again was made after Palestinians, who came from Syria, managed to break through the border fence and enter Israeli territory, while the old mines did not work. Additionally, by 2012, Israel had built a separation wall there. The IDF is strengthening a wall along the ceasefire line and installing additional surveillance capabilities across the border to prevent possible infiltration attempts by Syrian refugees or militants, the Guardian newspaper reported.

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Helpful information

Golan Heights
Golan
Hebrew רָמַת הַגוֹלָן‎
translit. Ramat HaGolan
Arab. هضبة الجولان‎‎‎ or مرتفعات الجولان
translit "hadbat al-Jolan" or "murtafaat al-Jolan"

Political status

In December 1981, a decision extended Israeli jurisdiction to the Golan region.

Israel's annexation of the Golan Heights is not internationally recognized. UN Security Council Resolution 497 of December 17, 1981 considers this area to be part of the Syrian occupied territories. The annexation was also condemned by the UN General Assembly in 2008.

The Syrian population of the Golan before the capture of the territory by the Israeli Army was about 116,000 people. During the Six Day War, the largest part of this population fled (according to the Israeli version) or was expelled by the Israelis (according to the Syrian version).

According to the Syrian version, Israel prohibited these people from returning after the war. After the Six Day War, only 6,400 Syrian citizens, mostly Druze, remained in the Golan. In 1981, following the annexation of the Golan by Israel, they were offered Israeli citizenship.

Most Druze initially refused Israeli citizenship, but eventually accepted it. Today, according to Syrian data, 16 thousand Syrians live in the Golan.

Since 1967, Israel has built 34 settlements in the Golan. Their total population in 2007 is about 20 thousand people. The population of Druze villages in the Golan is about 18 thousand people. In general, a significant part of the territory is sparsely populated.

The issue of possible negotiations between Israel and Syria on the Golan Heights issue has a long history. As a rule, this is associated with domestic political events in Israel and/or Syria, or with another international initiative.

On March 25, 2019, Donald Trump signed a document recognizing Israeli sovereignty over the Golan Heights.

Israel's motives

There are several reasons why Israel defends its right to the Golan Heights:

• Legal aspect. Israeli legislators, jurists, historians and many politicians for decades have persistently argued and strengthened in the minds of most Israelis the point of view that the Golan is a land that has long belonged to the Jewish people and was illegally transferred to Syria in 1923. According to this point of view, initially the Golan, in accordance with the mandate of the League of Nations, was assigned to Great Britain, and the latter, guided by the Balfour Declaration, was supposed to promote the creation of a “Jewish national home” in the territories under its control. However, the border of the mandated territory was revised during the Anglo-French negotiations during the division of the Damascus vilayet, in violation of the international obligations of the victorious countries in the First World War.

• Military aspect. Israeli politicians argue that the Golan's natural topography is ideal for ensuring Israel's security on its eastern borders. And that, on the contrary, the loss of the Golan, from the tops of which almost half of Israel is freely shot at, significantly reduces its defense capability. As an example of the need to maintain an Israeli presence in the Golan Heights, the Israeli leadership usually cites the fact that the transition of this area under Israeli sovereignty has ensured more than three decades of “positive calm” in an area where constant military clashes had previously occurred. Conversely, the transfer of the Golan to Syria could destabilize the security situation.

• Economic aspect. The Golan Heights is economically one of the most prosperous areas of Israel. There is virtually no unemployment here. The Golan produces more than 50% of Israel's mineral water, about a quarter of all wines (including 40% of exports), and from 30 to 50% of certain types of fruits and vegetables. Good weather and the presence of historical and natural monuments ensure an influx of tourists. Despite the fact that the tourism business in Israel has suffered significantly from the ongoing confrontation with the Palestinians, the Golan continues to receive a steady influx of holidaymakers from Israel and abroad (about 2.1 million visits per year).
  In addition, according to Israeli experts, the entire procedure associated with leaving the Golan would cost the state treasury at least $10 billion (the Americans promise to provide only $17 million for this purpose), and the military contingent on the border would have to be increased with Syria. Israel cannot afford such expenses.

• Water supply aspect. Of the few rivers in Israel with a year-round aquifer, only the Jordan River and its three tributaries - El Hasbani (Snir), Baniasi (Banias) and Liddani (Dan) - replenish Lake Tiberias, which is the main reservoir of fresh water in the country and hardly supplies it today's needs. Currently, Israel draws more than 30% of its drinking water from springs flowing through the Golan Heights. According to experts from the Bureau of Relations with Jews of the CIS and Eastern Europe at the Office of the Prime Minister (Nativ), the transfer of the Golan Heights to Syria would be associated with the loss of 70% of the Kinneret watershed. According to this opinion, the transition of the Golan to Syrian control will inevitably lead Israel to water famine and environmental disaster.

• Social aspect. Unlike the West Bank and Gaza Strip, the non-Jewish population in the Golan is small, and the Druze living at the foot of Mount Hermon are generally loyal to Israel and its policies.

Golan Heights (Kinneret, Israel) - detailed description, location, reviews, photos and videos.

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The Far East is a region that, like the land of Hellas, can rightfully be called the cradle of European civilization. But even among the great variety of attractions presented here, it is possible to single out, albeit with great difficulty, places that are simply a must-see. Among these is a controversial territory with a difficult history, which is full of cultural monuments and is distinguished by a special, somewhat harsh, but indescribably beautiful nature. We are talking about the famous Golan Heights.

History paragraph

The Golan Heights is a disputed territory between Syria and Israel, and each state considers these lands to be theirs. In the period from 1944 to 1967, this region belonged to Syria, but after the Six-Day War (in which the Israeli army left no chance for opponents from the coalition of Arab states), the territory was annexed. Today, both Syria and Israel claim the Golan Heights, but this territory is controlled by Israel.

The Golan Heights, like other areas of the Middle East, can boast of a very ancient history. It goes without saying that archaeological excavations were widely carried out here, which made it possible to find artifacts from Old Testament times, the period of Roman rule and, of course, the Middle Ages. Of course, such a concentration of attractions makes the Golan Heights one of the most popular travel destinations in Israel. In addition, a monument of the late Bronze - early Silver Age - the “Wheel of Spirits” - was discovered in these places.

According to the information received by scientists, this area was densely populated by Jews until the 7th century, when Arab conquerors invaded.

What to see

Nature lovers should definitely visit the Hermon National Park and the Yaar Yehudia Nature Reserve. You should definitely take the scenic Nahal El Al route. The path will not take much effort and time - it lasts half a day, and its highlight is two very beautiful waterfalls. It is also interesting to walk along the Bir Kat Ram trail; here you have a unique opportunity to see the crater of an extinct volcano and even walk along it. Another route runs to the Nimrod fortress, from the heights of which a surprisingly picturesque view opens.

The Golan Heights, among other things, are famous for their unique thermal springs located in the town of Hamat Gader. By the way, this healing resort was known back in the 2nd century after Christ. So the local healing waters have been attracting guests here for thousands of years.

The capital of the Golan Heights is considered to be the city of Katzrin, which, however, does not stand out in anything remarkable. But not far from it there is a very picturesque village, where a Jewish village from the Talmudic period was reconstructed. Here you can see houses typical of that time and get acquainted with the details of everyday life and interior design. The local archaeological museum also deserves attention.

Just 2 km from the city there is a shopping center where in an ultra-modern cinema you can see the film “The Magic of the Golan”, telling about the history and geography of this region.

Mount Bental serves as a sad monument to the tragic events that unfolded here in 1973, during the Yom Kippur War between Arabs and Jews. It was an important strategic point (it remains so to this day), because a terrifying bloody battle unfolded here. At the top, above the so-called “Valley of Tears,” a bunker and command post have been preserved. Nearby is the cozy village of Merom Golan, a real center of agritourism - horseback riding, farm products and many other entertainments will undoubtedly delight guests.

For those who want to relax in a calm environment and with the maximum amount of amenities and entertainment, we can safely recommend Ramot. This small village is full of guesthouses and restaurants. And most importantly, it is located on the shores of the Sea of ​​Galilee. Particularly exotic can be considered a visit to the Druze villages located in the north of the Golan. The Druze are a special subethnic group that professes Islam and lived in these lands before the formation of the Israeli state. Today they are separated by a border from their relatives, but they have managed to preserve a special national flavor both in everyday life and in the excellent local cuisine.

I admit, I didn’t believe it when I read that the Golan Heights, located in northeastern Israel, are the most militarized region in the world. The endless strife in the Middle East is already an eyesore, and so is this depressing fact. But it should be noted that the Golan Heights are a treasure trove of impressions for those who are interested in the history of the 20th century, in particular the history of the East and military history. This piece of land, 100 kilometers long and 25 to 30 kilometers wide, is literally dotted with military installations. Approximately half of this mountain plateau is occupied by minefields, bunkers, anti-tank ditches, and firing positions. Everyone mined this unfortunate land: the French, the British, the Turks, the Syrians, the Israelis. Over the past half century, these places have experienced at least four large-scale and bloody wars, and so far the “renaissance” is still very far away.

About a month before the trip to the Golan Heights, I was in Egypt, and the trip was thematic and dedicated to the Arab-Israeli wars. Namely, the Bar-Lev line, built by the Israelis along the Suez Canal in 1967 to protect against a possible attack by Egypt. . And this despite the fact that I have never been a fan of military themes. Three years of my own military service made such an indelible impression on me that it seemed that everything connected with the army would repel me until the end of my days. But no! These powerful fortifications, accumulations of abandoned military equipment, command posts, etc. did not leave anyone indifferent. And so, continuing to expand on the topic of the Arab-Israeli wars, I went to the second frontier. This time to the site of the Israeli-Syrian wars, the Golan.

No sooner said than done. We have a cheerful team, all of whose heroes are known to the reader from previous articles. We are doubly lucky. My companions are driving their own car. And by some coincidence, just like on my last visit to Israel, I managed to get the work car of another friend, who left me the car now, because he is flying away on a business trip to Europe. A better set of circumstances could not be found.

Trip planning

Israel is a small country, and it would seem to be extremely urbanized. And yet there are places where tourists are a rarity. For example, the Golan Heights. They may object to me - the Golan is not a unique route at all, and almost every Israeli has been there. All this is true. But the fact is that tourists visit the Golan exclusively locally. Fans of group tours travel by bus along standard routes - the ruins of an ancient synagogue in Katzrin, then a winery, a souvenir shop, and Banias waterfall. Sometimes tourists will be taken to Mount Avital, from where a panorama of the Syrian city of Quneitra opens. All. There is nothing more a group tourist can count on. Active Israelis will tell you that in their youth they climbed all the canyons of the Golan Heights and saw dozens of waterfalls and breathtaking landscapes there.

But as soon as you plan a truly unusual route, you will see that you will not only find advisers, but even reference materials on the topic. We decided to travel through the battlefields of the two main wars between Syria and Israel - 1967 and 1973. In terms of scale, these battles can only be compared with the battles on the Kursk Bulge, at least in the context of the equipment and manpower involved. Obviously, this could not pass without a trace. Syria lost about 1,000 tanks in 1967, and about 1,500 more tanks in 1973. Plus a countless number of armored personnel carriers, trucks, guns, and auxiliary equipment. And hundreds of bunkers and defense lines have not disappeared anywhere, and are still very interesting for the amateur.

Taking into account the fact that such routes are not developed, we had to raise this layer of information ourselves. Collecting it literally bit by bit. Studying articles about these wars, checking the names on the map, plotting them on the map using the google.earth program. We studied old books with black and white photographs, we read military-themed online communities. It took at least a week to prepare for this three-day trip.

Border with Syria and Jordan along the Yarmouk River canyon

The history of the Golan Heights briefly looks like this: at the beginning of the twentieth century, the territories of modern Syria and Lebanon were under French protectorate, and Israel and Jordan were under British protectorate. After World War II, the British and French left the Middle East, granting independence to all of the above states. The Golan Heights went to Syria, and the border with Israel ran in a straight line from north to south, from Mount Hermon to Lake Kinneret. The Syrian Golan Heights towered over the Israeli Hula Valley and the Kinneret. Syria owned all the water sources of the Jordan River, and from the positions of the Syrian army the entire north of Israel was under fire, including dozens of agricultural settlements located in the valley and the city of Kiryat Shmona.

Without going into the origins and chronology of the Arab-Israeli conflict, it should be emphasized that the Syrian-Israeli border has never been calm. Artillery duels broke out almost every day, and militant groups continually attempted to infiltrate Israel. On June 6, 1967, the so-called Six Day War began, during which Israel captured the Golan Heights from Syria, Judea and Samaria from Jordan and the Sinai Peninsula from Egypt. The Golan turned into a buffer zone, Israeli troops took up positions just 50 kilometers from Damascus. At the same time, the development of the newly acquired lands began. About 20 settlements were founded there, engaged in agriculture and cattle breeding. The task was difficult. Imagine a high-mountainous volcanic plateau, overgrown with withered grass with rare woodlands. Much of the Golan is strewn with minefields. These places were mined by the Turks at the beginning of the century, rightly fearing the British. Then the French and the British, and later the Syrians.

Somewhere I came across figures saying that on average, for every square kilometer of area, there are a hundred mines here. It is clear that the mining maps have been lost, so their exact location and quantity will remain a mystery. Even today, after 40 years of Israeli rule and efforts to develop the Golan Heights, these places still resemble the front line. A considerable part of the land was cleared through trial and error; fortunately, this mission was carried out by herds of cows and sheep, but no one touched the territories adjacent to the new border with Syria - and why should they? The countries are still at war to this day, and the bitter experience of the Syrians, who lost several hundred tanks to mines in 1973, once again proves that it is too early for Israel to rush into demining.

The border between Israel and Syria ran along the Jordan until 1967. The river here is narrow, but very stormy, and makes noise in the depths of the gorge. The bridge itself is a massive steel structure, thrown about fifty meters to the opposite bank. It is impossible for two cars to pass each other on the bridge, so traffic jams occur there from time to time. Immediately after the bridge, we decided to walk south along the river, because not far away, right in the middle of the river, we noticed an island of a strange shape. It turned out to be a Syrian T-55 tank, lying upside down. Over four decades, the waters of the Jordan covered the combat vehicle with silt, turning it into an island on which bushes sprouted and frogs croaked heartily. To the left of the road, among the eucalyptus trees, there is a dilapidated two-story building of the former Syrian customs house. This place is surrounded by a perimeter fence with signs “Caution - mines!”

Carefully stepping on the stones, as if walking through a swamp, we entered the building. The fact is that the main type of mines used by the Syrians were anti-tank mines, Soviet-made TMD class. In these places, sophisticated anti-personnel charges were almost never encountered. Old, bulky TMD mines were laid in soft ground, so our risk when walking on stones was minimal. The passage of time seems to have stopped here forty years ago. Corridors and rooms dotted with a centimeter layer of applied dust and sand, grass, in some places, growing through the tiles, fragments of furniture, Arabic inscriptions on the walls. In one of the rooms, on the second floor, there are mountains of spent Soviet-made cartridges, 7.62 caliber, and here there is a meter-long hole from a direct hit from a tank shell. The whole room is covered in soot, the plaster is riddled with hundreds of gouges from the explosion. The fragments of the shell are scattered right under our feet. Needless to say, the Syrians who were here had a hard time. However, now all this is history.

The toilets looked especially touching - typical army holes in the floor without doors or partitions, but near one of them, on an overturned bucket, lay a book in Arabic. At first we decided that it had ended up here much later, but the layer of dust and the very condition of the book (gray-yellow and very dilapidated) indicated that it had been left here a very long time ago. There was also an ancient Soviet 20-liter canister with a quality mark visible through the layer of rust. In the customs courtyard we saw an old broken down bus of an unknown brand and the mangled front part of the UAZ, reminiscent of a sieve due to the number of holes on it. We didn’t dare to come closer - waist-deep grass grew in the yard and there really could have been mines here. After taking a few photos from the porch, we walked through the building, returned to the highway and continued along the route.

Jordan River - here was the border between Israel and Syria until 1967

In fairness, it is worth adding that during the war this area was far from the main hostilities. The Jilabun area was so heavily fortified by the Syrians that the Israelis initially decided not to take it frontally in order to avoid major losses. Instead, the main blow to the Syrian positions fell on Gur El-Askar, which is 20 km to the north, at the foot of Mount Hermon. After this, the Israelis advanced to the Syrian outpost in Kel'a - the most powerful fortified area was located there, which, nevertheless, was taken on the second day of fighting.

Abandoned Syrian military unit

Guardian of the Ruins

With the capture of Kel'a, the Syrian defenses were breached and Israeli tanks found themselves deep behind enemy lines. The Syrian commanders on the ground, realizing that the officials from Damascus had given their lives to the mercy of Allah, and the enemy was about to come from the rear, decided that it would be wiser to abandon their positions and retreat while possible. Hence the huge amount of military equipment abandoned by the Syrians, captured by the Israelis almost without a fight. On the sides, former Syrian bunkers, networks of trenches and mangled Soviet tanks T-34 and T-55, no less mutilated Israeli Centurions and Pattons, alternate every now and then.

After a few kilometers, we turn left onto a dirt road. Two kilometers from here, judging by the map, is the Djelabun Canyon with the river of the same name and three beautiful waterfalls. We pass through a forest, inside of which there are several destroyed Syrian bunkers, connected by trenches partially covered with earth. Here, right next to the road, there is an almost complete GAZ-51. This example was so well preserved that if it were not for the layer of rust, missing wheels and broken windows, one could mistake it for a completely working exhibit.

1973 war

In 1973 the situation was already different. This time the Syrians stormed, and the Israelis held the defense on the heights in the eastern part of the Golan Heights. If in 1967 the victory of Israeli troops was lightning fast and unambiguous, then in the next war everything was more complicated. The Arab countries were well prepared for the attack, and carried it out almost simultaneously - Egypt in the Sinai, and Syria in the Golan. During this war, the Arab world showed enviable unity, and even those countries that did not directly take part in the battles supported Syria and Egypt materially and with weapons. Morocco, Algeria, Iraq, Jordan - they all sent their military contingents. Even Cuba did not stand aside, sending several thousand of its military advisers to the Golan.

All of the above has put Israel in a situation that can be described as “Either pan or perish.” The strategic cone-shaped volcanoes, with which the entire border strip with Syria is dotted, played a good service for the Israelis. Along the perimeter of these volcanoes, the edge of the earth was cut off, depriving the enemy of the opportunity for an assault using heavy equipment.

Volcano-fortress. This is Fares, just one of about 25 similar

In addition, the Israelis diligently dug anti-tank trenches for several years and abundantly “fertilized” the border line several kilometers deep with mines. Plus a multi-stage defense line immediately behind the strip of “fortified volcanoes.”

At two o'clock in the afternoon, after an hour-long artillery barrage, Syrian troops crossed the armistice line established by the UN after the 1967 war (the so-called “Purple Line”) and attacked fortifications on the Golan Heights in the Quneitra area with the forces of three infantry, two tank divisions and a separate tank brigade . Although the three divisions were called infantry, each of them had 200 tanks. The Syrians were opposed by one infantry and one tank brigade of the Israeli army, as well as part of the units of the 7th tank brigade. The four battalions of the 188th Tank Brigade had 90-100 tanks (mostly Centurions) and 44 105- and 155-mm self-propelled guns. The total number of Israeli tanks on the Golan Heights was only 180-200 vehicles.

During the fighting, the Syrians managed to break through several lines of defense. This was given to them at an incredibly high price. Syria lost half of all its armored vehicles and tens of thousands of soldiers killed and wounded. Yet the Israelis fared extremely poorly in this war, since the bulk of their forces were committed to the Egyptian front. The heaviest battles took place north of Quneitra, in a place that the Israelis now call the “Valley of Tears.”

In many ways, the defenders were helped by the Syrians' blunder with the mining maps - hundreds of Syrian tanks fell on mines. In addition, Israeli aircraft operated continuously, striking the Syrian advancing columns. And yet, in these few days, the Israelis lost only 772 people killed. Now a monument has been erected at the site of the battles. There is also a T-55 tank. And a little to the side, literally a kilometer away, you can visit the real line of fortifications, which was stormed by the Syrians in 1973. There will be abandoned damaged tanks, trenches, and bunkers.

The second most important battle took place closer to Mount Hermon, near the Druze village of Masada. Now the battle site is behind the ceasefire line, and UN observers will not let you in there.

Some interesting points

The military won't let you go somewhere. At the same time, it is quite possible to visit the building of the former Syrian headquarters, from where command was exercised during the 1967 war. This massive and abandoned building is located literally right next to the current ceasefire line, just 800 meters from the first residential buildings of Syrian Quneitra.

And this is what the building looked like immediately after its capture in 1967:

Surprisingly, visiting this place is quite possible. The main thing is not to try to drive further - there will be mines and anti-tank ditches. The building was built in the spirit of socialist realism.

It was bombed during the war, but you can easily walk along the endless corridors and look into the offices. And even climb onto the roof, from where you can clearly see the houses of Kuneitra, which is very close, literally a 5-minute walk...

You can also visit a place called in Hebrew “Brichat Ktzinim” (officers’ pool). This is a real pool, built right on the springs near the gorge of the Gilbon River.

Here, until 1967, there was a kind of rest home for the Syrian military. The war did not bypass this picturesque corner of nature, and the sight of torn buildings around can only cause a heavy sigh. And yet the pool itself has been preserved, and you can even take a dip there. The water is crystal clear!

By the way, an interesting moment from that war. There is an opinion that Damascus was saved by the Iraqis. After two weeks of fighting, the Israelis managed to turn the tide and go from desperate defense to the offensive. Israeli tanks pushed Syrian troops beyond the line that preceded the war, and even advanced units in the direction of Damascus. Syria, which by that time had practically lost its air force and most of its tanks, could not oppose anything to the enemy except for a blind defense right on the streets of Damascus. The Iraqi tank division immediately got involved in battle with the advancing Israeli troops straight from the march. Moreover, for the Iraqis this was the first battle with anyone in the history of their army. It was then that a protracted Iran-Iraq war awaited them, and in 1973 they were absolutely unprepared for battle. Especially with the Israelis, who had extensive combat experience.

Inexperienced Iraqi crews were ambushed and lost more than 120 combat vehicles in the first hours of fighting. By the evening of October 12, almost the entire Iraqi division was destroyed, the soldiers abandoned their equipment in panic and retreated. And yet the Iraqis completed their mission. They delayed the Israeli advance and wore them down greatly. Precious time was lost, the Israeli counter-offensive stopped, and soon, under UN pressure, Israel and Syria agreed to a truce.

The so-called "Oil Road" stretched across the Golan Heights from north to south. Now it doesn't look the best - broken asphalt, cracks in which you can lose the wheel of your car. This road has an interesting history. In 1947, this road was specially laid for the subsequent construction of an oil pipeline from Saudi Arabia to the port of Saida in Lebanon. The oil pipeline was built by such oil and gas “monsters” as Esso, Texaco, Aramco, Shell.

Huge air turbines. Notice the car below. For comparison.

It was assumed that Saudi oil would flow along this line to Saida and then on tankers to Europe. Huge amounts of money were invested in the construction of this 1214 kilometer line. Surprisingly, no Arab-Israeli wars stopped the operation of the oil pipeline for a day. Black gold flowed into Lebanese Saida until 1976, when a dispute arose between the Saudi authorities and Lebanon over transit duties. Isn't it reminiscent of the recent gas dispute between Ukraine and Russia?

The Dutch Heights, or Golan, are located to the northeast and east of and are part of the Northern District of Israel, or rather, controlled by this country.

This is a disputed territory between Syria and Israel, which captured it as a result of which was fought in the Middle East in 1967 from June 5th to 10th. A coalition that included Egypt and Syria, Jordan, Iraq and Algeria opposed Israel in this war.

Disputed territories

In fairness, it must be said that historically, the Dutch Heights belonged to Israel for more than 3,000 years and, as stated, were given by God. They became part of this country under King David and were part of the Holy (Promised) Land.

Syria owned these lands, which were included in its province of Quneitra, for only 21 years. She received the disputed territories as a gift from the French, who, leaving these lands due to the end of their mandate, gave the Dutch heights to Syria solely to annoy the Israelis.

Historical name

What is this territory like? From the very beginning, it should be noted that the height received its name from the biblical city of Golan. This ancient settlement was located in Bashan, a historical region located on the eastern bank of the Jordan. Therefore, the correct name for these heights is “Golan”, and not “Dutch”. Holland, whose territory is mostly below sea level, has no heights other than sand dunes.

Golan Borders

The Golan Heights is a mountain plateau of volcanic origin, which occupies 1,150 square kilometers in Israel. Its height is 1200 meters above sea level. The western border of these territories, which in the Bible is called the land of Bashan, is Lake Kinneret and the upper reaches of the Jordan, the eastern border is the Trachona rocks of volcanic origin and the Druze Mountains.

The Yarmouk River is the southern border of the Golan, and on the northern side these lands are protected by the Hermon Mountains (only 7% of their total area is located). Ash Sheikh or Hermon is the highest mountain in Israel. It reaches 2236 meters above sea level.

There is something to argue about

The Dutch Heights are divided into the Upper and Lower Golan. Naturally, there is very little arable land in the highlands; mainly herds graze here. But in the lower part there is a lot of land suitable for cultivation. They are located on numerous plains interspersed with basalt hills. And if the Upper Golan is called the land of herds, then the Lower Golan is called the land of flour, since for both Israel and Syria these lands are the main breadbasket. And not only wheat is grown here, but also cotton, olives, vegetables, almonds and subtropical fruits.

Territory of war

It should be noted that the war never bypassed the Dutch Heights. Even after the death of Solomon, that is, in the 10th century BC, the country fell apart, and Israel (in the north) and Judea (in the south) arose. On the territory of the Golan, continuous battles were fought between the Israeli and Aramaic kingdoms for 200 years. periodically destroyed. So in 722 BC, the Assyrians under the command of King Tiglath-Palassar destroyed the country.

The Jews left their people (who never enjoyed long peace), but already in the middle of the first millennium BC. e., that is, during the time of the Second Temple, the Golan were returned, but then they became part of the Kingdom of Judah.

Symbol of courage

Heights - the story of constant wars. In the first century AD (67), the Golan was captured by the Romans. The Jews very bravely defended their fairly well-fortified cities. Gamala, which at that time was the capital of the Golan, offered especially strong resistance to the Roman invaders. The fearlessness and sacrifice of the defenders amazed the Romans, and the city became a symbol of the courage of Israeli soldiers for centuries. During excavations carried out in our time, not a single object or remains of structures were found in these territories that would indicate the presence of anyone other than the Israelis in these lands in those distant times. Only synagogues or settlements of ancient Jews are found here.

The true owners of the earth

In the 4th century, the Byzantines came here and harshly persecuted the Jews, and in the 7th century these conquerors were replaced by Muslim Arabs. In the 11th century, battles began between them and the crusaders. And none of the invaders cultivated these lands, except for the Jews, whom the enslavers constantly expelled, and they returned again and turned the deserts into gardens. And this fate befell not only the Dutch Heights. In Israel or Eretz Israel, all territories came to life and flourished when they were settled by Jews and turned into deserts with the arrival of conquerors. One of the most striking examples is Gaza.

Malarial swamps, sands and wastelands have turned into blooming gardens since the formation of Jewish settlements here. This territory produces 35% of all Israeli flower production. Vegetables and fruits also grow here in abundance.

Nothing has changed in the 20th century

For 400 years (1517-1918), Turkey ruled the Golan, turning these lands into the deserted “backyards of the empire.” From 1918 to 1946, Britain and France dominated here, which, as noted above, when they left, “donated” the Golan to the newly emerged new state called Syria.

In 1948, Ben-Gurion proclaimed the creation of a Jewish state. And immediately the war began. After these areas of the heights began to be actively populated by Israelis, the ancient village of Katzrin was revived. In total, 34 settlements were built here, and the number of residents exceeded 20,000 people. In 1973, Israel repelled a Syrian attack and defended the Dutch Heights. But the question of how long peace would last was always up in the air. Israeli jurisdiction was extended to these lands in December 1981 by a Knesset decision. But officially the Golan is considered disputed territory.

Red Herring

On October 3, 2015, ISIS launched an offensive near the Dutch Heights. 3,000 militants using rocket artillery aimed to capture the former UN observation post, which is located on Mount Cuba. The settlements of Jabat Al-Khashab and Tranja came under attack from the militants. ISIS undertook this maneuver in order to distract the Syrian army and the Russian Aerospace Forces from Damascus. But today, the Syrian government army has returned all the local gains of ISIS in this area.

Attractions Golan

The Golan is the most remote Israeli territory and one of the most picturesque. The main attraction is the Wheel of Spirits or the Wheel of Rephaim, located 16 km from Lake Kinneret. In its center there is a mound, and the megalithic monument itself dates back to the late Neolithic era (IV-III millennium BC)

Mountains and waterfalls, Druze villages and ski resorts (on Mount Hermon), dolmens and ancient synagogues (for example, in Gamala), nature reserves and national parks - all this is the Golan Heights (Israel). Detailed information about the wars waged in these territories was presented above.