Nine things you must do in Belgrade. Sights of Belgrade and its surroundings with photos and descriptions Buy yourself creations by Serbian designers
Belgrade is sometimes called the “gateway to the Balkans”. Despite the fact that the city has a rather long and interesting history, tourists are unlikely to find pompous palaces, outstanding monuments or world-famous museums here. But the lack of external gloss is more than compensated for by the special atmosphere of the city streets and the boundless hospitality of the Serbs.
The main architectural attractions of the capital are the Belgrade Fortress and the Church of St. Sava, which cannot be completed. In some parts of the city, traces of the 1999 NATO bombing are clearly visible. Many destroyed walls and houses were deliberately left in this condition so that that terrible time would not be erased from people’s memory. Otherwise, Belgrade is a modern and dynamic city with its own charm and character.
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What to see and where to go in Belgrade?
The most interesting and beautiful places for walks. Photos and brief description.
Belgrade Fortress dates back to the 1st century. Some sources are inclined to believe that the structure was built several centuries earlier. Most of the buildings date back to the 18th century, although traces of the Roman and Byzantine eras remain inside the fortification. Over such a long time, the fortress was fought for more than 100 times, destroyed and rebuilt 44 times. Today, most of the territory is a landscape park.
A large green oasis in the historical center of Belgrade, surrounding the Belgrade Fortress. It was defeated by order of Prince Milos Obrenovic in 1867, when the territory of the fort came under the control of the city authorities. Previously, this place was used by the Ottoman Turks for military exercises. Kalemegdan has a military museum, an art gallery, a zoo, a play area for children, monuments and sports grounds.
An ancient city quarter, often called the Serbian “Montmartre”. Skadarlija is famous for the fact that famous writers and publicists lived and worked here. The Russian poet I. Bunin also once visited this area. The place gained bohemian fame at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Today the quarter has retained its special atmosphere of creativity and freedom, which invariably attracts tourists.
A pedestrian alley in the very heart of Belgrade, where all visitors to the city must visit. For the capital of Serbia, it has approximately the same importance as Arbat for Moscow. At any time, the street is filled with artists, musicians, actors, souvenir sellers and strolling tourists. People dine in restaurants, visit shops, watch impromptu skits and simply enjoy the pleasant atmosphere.
A scientific museum dedicated to the life and work of the outstanding scientist N. Tesla. It was founded in 1952 by decision of the Yugoslav government. The exhibition occupies a two-story mansion on the street. Proletarian brigades. The unique collection features models of Tesla's inventions, as well as his manuscripts, drawings, letters and some personal items. In total, the collection contains several tens of thousands of exhibits.
The collection was created in the middle of the 20th century on the initiative of a group of enthusiasts who could not imagine their existence without the sky and flights. Since 1989, the museum has been housed in a futuristic building on the grounds of Belgrade Airport. Aircraft, aircraft engines, rockets and special equipment are collected here. There is also a section with photographs and books on relevant topics.
The museum is located on the territory of the Belgrade Fortress. More than 30 thousand items that belong to different eras are collected here: weapons, maps, banners, uniforms, equipment, documents, photographs, personal belongings of soldiers and much more. Among the interesting exhibits are Austrian cannons, a Katyusha launcher and a T-34 tank. The museum appeared in 1878 thanks to the assistance of Prince Milos Obrenovic.
The National Museum is considered one of the largest in Serbia. Its collection consists of almost 400 thousand exhibits. Ancient Egyptian and Roman artifacts, coins, sculptures, costumes and household items from different eras are stored here. The art exhibition is especially impressive, containing works by Matisse, Rubens, Picasso, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and other famous masters of the 16th-20th centuries.
The theater building is one of the most picturesque in Belgrade. It was built in 1869 according to the design of A. Bugarsky in an eclectic style that combines elements of almost all known architectural trends. The last major reconstruction took place in 1989. The best actors of the former Yugoslavia and present-day Serbia performed and are performing on stage. In the theater, drama productions are on par with opera and ballet.
Construction of the cathedral began in 1894 on the very spot where, by order of the Ottoman occupation authorities, the relics of the first Serbian archbishop, St. Sava, who lived in the 12th-13th centuries, were burned. Until 1939, only the walls were built, then the Second World War began. Work continued until the early 2000s with long interruptions. Even now the temple is still not finished. Nevertheless, he operates and receives parishioners.
Orthodox church located near the parliament building. The church was built in the 1930s in the Serbian-Byzantine style, imitating the architecture of the Gracanica monastery. Inside are the remains of Stephen IV Dusan, the creator of the Serbian kingdom. The Church of St. Mark is famous for its valuable collection of icons from the 13th-19th centuries. Such a rich collection of divine images, perhaps, is no longer found in any other temple in Serbia.
The temple is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. It is one of the oldest in Serbia, since according to surviving manuscripts it was built in the 13th century. The building is located right next to the walls of the Belgrade Fortress. It is noteworthy that even during the First World War, Serbian soldiers, in the breaks between battles, tried to restore the badly damaged church, which speaks of the incredible patriotism of this people.
Broz Tito - General Secretary of the Central Committee of the United Kingdom of Yugoslavia, virtually the sole ruler of Yugoslavia until 1980. After his death, interethnic conflicts broke out with renewed vigor, which ultimately led to the collapse of the country. The Mausoleum of Tito is a kind of Mausoleum of V.I. Lenin, only the Yugoslav leader rests in a closed sarcophagus. There is also a museum at the tomb where gifts and personal belongings of the leader are kept.
The castle is located in the center of Belgrade in one of the oldest areas of the city. It was erected in 1830 according to the design of H. N. Zhivkovich. The building is a classic example of 19th century Belgrade urban architecture. It was built for the wife of Prince Obrenovic, Princess Lyubica, and their sons. At various times, the palace housed a lyceum, a gymnasium, a court, a boarding school and even a church museum. In 1979, the castle was recognized as a cultural monument.
The monumental palace in the classical style was erected in 1936 according to the design of J. Ilkic and K. Jovanovic. At the final stage of construction in 1934, the chief architect of Yalta, N.P. Krasnov, joined the work on the interior. For a long time, the government of Yugoslavia met in the building; since 2006, it has been occupied by the Parliament of Serbia. The building has important historical and cultural significance and is considered a valuable monument.
A memorial structure erected at the end of the 19th century in honor of the thousandth anniversary of the formation of the first Hungarian settlements. The construction of the tower was financed by the authorities of Austria-Hungary. The height of the structure is 36 meters, which made it possible to use it as an observation tower and respond in time to a fire. On the upper floors of Gardosh there is a free observation deck.
The television tower on Mount Avala, which was destroyed in 1999 during NATO's Operation Allied Force and was only rebuilt in 2010. It is this fact that causes increased interest among tourists in the attraction. The structure is considered the tallest in the Balkans. Mount Avala rises 500 meters above Belgrade and its surroundings. It is a popular holiday destination among residents of the capital and its suburbs.
The city zoo is located in close proximity to the walls of the Belgrade Fortress. During the bombing of World War II, many animals died, some escaped and hid on the city streets. Since then, employees have been practicing the most humane treatment of four-legged animals. The most comfortable living conditions have been created for the animals. Some animals even walk quietly among visitors.
The peninsula, located on the outskirts of Belgrade, is a popular recreation area with a lake and pebble beach. Here you can not only swim and sunbathe. Citizens come here for a picnic, exercise, lunch in a cafe or chat with friends. The peninsula is home to deer, hares, pheasants and ducks, which are periodically shown to people. You need to come here for at least one day to fully enjoy the local nature.
The capital of Serbia is located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The turbulent waters meet where the Pannonian Plain meets the Balkan Peninsula. This is a wide bend with picturesque shores, in the middle of which there is an island overgrown with lush vegetation. Pleasure boats often ply here. The meeting point of the two waterways is clearly visible from the territory of the Belgrade Fortress.
Heading to Belgrade? Then don't neglect these tips. Along with the must-see places marked in tourist guides, this city has many pitfalls. Jumping from one to the other, you might miss what makes the capital of Serbia special. Five useful tips for those who are in Belgrade for the first time.
Don't rent a room at Hotel Moskva
Photo @white_orchid
Yes, Hotel Moscow is located in a very beautiful old building in the Art Nouveau style, has an interesting history and is very conveniently located in the city center. But the cost of the rooms leaves much to be desired. And if you take advantage of special offers with an attractive price on booking sites, then most likely you will get a tiny twelve-meter room on the top floor with a low ceiling and a view of the courtyard.
To satisfy your aesthetic curiosity, just go have a cup of tea in the charming Cafe Moscow on the ground floor of the hotel. The atmosphere here is appropriate: in the huge foyer with floor-to-ceiling windows, a colorful crowd of local celebrities, businessmen and bohemians are having conversations over a cup of Russian Samovar tea. Gray-haired Serbs with respectable mustaches and older ladies in fur coats and, of course, dark glasses. Helpful waiters scurry past the tables and stunned tourists lift their heads to look at the architectural decoration of the ceiling. And all this with live piano accompaniment.
Better yet, stay at Hostel Yolostel
Photo @elmaayanakk
Situated in a quiet part of the center of Belgrade in a historic building, Hostel Yolostel is located right next to the picturesque Kalemegdan Park at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The park itself is famous, in addition to the fortress of the same name, for its zoo. The one in which the powerful first scene of Emir Kusturica’s film “Underground” was shot. Around the park is the French Embassy (the French, who have excellent taste, know a lot about views from the window) and many pleasing buildings with interesting architecture.
Plus, next to Yolostel there is a pedestrian zone from the mandatory tourist program - Prince Mikhail shopping street with endless shops and galleries. The hostel has private rooms for couples and shared rooms for budget travelers or large groups.
Don't waste time on Skadarlija street
Photo @elena_rastiagaeva
And don’t go into this so-called “bohemian quarter” at all. Unless, of course, you are a lover of mothballs and Old Arbat. And this street has nothing in common with Montmartre. Skadarlija (Skadarska) In all tourist guides it is listed as “mast see”. Maybe a hundred years ago all the bohemians of Belgrade swarmed here. Now it consists entirely of restaurants and shops aimed at tourists. This means high prices and low quality. The whole street is one continuous consumer goods.
Better yet, hang out at Mixer House
Photo @white_orchid
This is where the concentration of modern bohemia in Belgrade lies. Or rather, “bobo” - the bohemian bourgeoisie. Hidden away in an old warehouse, this loft is a café and gallery by day, where designers and other talented creatives generate new ideas. And at night, this vast space turns into a bar, restaurant and concert venue under one roof. It hosts live performances by musicians and DJs from Serbia and all over the world. Mixer House besides, the calling card of the area Savamala (Savamala) occupied by hipsters. So there are many more interesting spaces around. For example, a restaurant and a store Supermarket .
Don't go to restaurants in the city
No, of course you need to have breakfast, lunch and dinner somewhere. There are many nice places in Belgrade, including local chain ones. For example, scattered throughout the city, a wonderful Serbian bakery Bread & Kifle , where it’s so good to refuel with fresh coffee and a bagel in the morning, and have a salad or sandwich in the evening. In this chain you can buy delicious traditional dishes of Balkan cuisine in glass jars: ajvar (caviar from baked red bell pepper), lyutenitsa (spicy ajvar) and pinjur (caviar from baked eggplant). Or in the afternoon you can drink tea with a piece of the signature “Moskva” cake. and ogle at the wealthy insiders in the aforementioned Cafe Moscow .
Photo @jovanvasiljevic
Photo @white_orchid
We're talking more about restaurants with local cuisine like Three hats(Tri sesira) in the ill-fated Skadarlija. Even though the portions there are huge, they don’t go down your throat because of the tourist flair and the price tag, which completely kill the appetite you’ve built up during the day.
Better yet, have lunch at a restaurant on the Danube outside the city
Photo @a_wonderland_s
Having traveled several tens of kilometers from Belgrade, you will find restaurants along the banks of the Danube. There are rarely tourists there. The entire audience is Serbian, who comes here by car from the city and nearby suburbs. Friendly waiters will serve you up to your stomach with local cuisine for pennies by capital standards. Judge for yourself, in one of these restaurants with a telling name Dunavska terrace for two, for a pot (and this is not two plates, but also an addition) fish soup from three types of fish, catfish cutlets, pike fillet, two glasses of white and a couple of glasses of plum brandy plus water, we paid 20 euros! Needless to say, all the fish was fresh, there was a crackling fireplace behind us, and from the window there was a beautiful view of the Danube.
Don't buy mass market
Foto @cwy101197
Even on sales. In fact, aren’t Zara and MaxMara in Moscow enough for you?! Why burden your luggage with clothes that are sold anywhere in the world? Moreover, such things are so universal that they are completely devoid of any local zest: “I bought this dress in Belgrade!” - "And what?".
Better pay attention to local designers
The Balkans are incredibly colorful due to the diversity of cultures in such a compact area. This whole ebullient mixture of gypsyism, traditions of the East and West finds expression in art, including in the works of designers.
Photo @ivkowoman
Designer knitwear IVKO - a world famous brand. The company is based in Belgrade and strongly emphasizes Serbian origins in its collections. Plus, IVKO products are high-tech. Innovative production makes knitwear not just beautiful, but also of truly high quality. The motifs, patterns and colors “reflect life in Belgrade, where culture, fashion and art are the source of exciting new ways.” IVKO's stylish and relaxed looks will complement any wardrobe.
Do not stay in Belgrade for more than 1-2 days
Foto @belgrade.cat
Belgrade is a bustling city with metropolitan prices. Of course, there is a lot of beauty and energy in it. Yet it is one of the most dynamic cities in Europe. After visiting all the sights and checking in at a couple of bars, move on. As we know from Kusturica’s films, Serbia is not only Belgrade.
Better yet, visit Novi Sad or Subotica
Photo @daki_ho
If energetic Belgrade is Serbian Moscow, then it is charming St. Petersburg. The second largest city in Serbia is located on both banks of the Danube. The local architecture and coloring were formed under the influence of several cultures at once. The population of the city is Serbs, Hungarians, Slovaks, Germans... Novi Sad is the site of the largest music festival in south-eastern Europe - EXIT, which has earned worldwide fame thanks to the diversity and advanced trends of the music presented. And there is an IVKO store in this city too!
Subotic and quite far from Belgrade, located very close to the Hungarian border, only 10 kilometers. It is the northernmost city in Serbia and the largest Magyar-speaking city in the country. More than half of the population here speaks Hungarian. The city itself and its architecture are a kind of miniature with a clear national Hungarian flavor. The city hall and many houses in the center were built at the beginning of the 20th century in the Hungarian Art Nouveau style.
Photo @white_orchid
This country does not have its own seashore, but it has mountains, clean air, mineral springs and incredibly delicious cuisine. We found out five reasons why you should go here.
1. Get to know another European capital
Belgrade may not have the same bright colors and charm as, for example, Paris or Amsterdam, but it has a special flavor. The capital of Serbia has been destroyed and rebuilt 38 times throughout its history. Some buildings damaged by NATO bombing in the late 90s can still be seen (General Staff, Ministry of Defense). They were not demolished on purpose - for edification, as a monument to war.
In the city center, on Terazije Square, one of the main attractions is located - the Moscow Hotel, designed in the Art Nouveau style. This is the only hotel in Belgrade where there are no apartments at number 13. By the way, not far from it is the Samo Pivo bar, where they only sell beer - you can bring any snack with you or order delivery to the establishment’s address.
Kalemegdan (park and ancient fortress with a gorgeous view of the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers), Republic Square, King Alexander Boulevard (the longest street in the city - 8.5 km), Nikola Tesla Museum (Monday - day off).
Hotel "Moscow" in Belgrade
2. Take mineral baths
There are many thermal springs in Serbia. One of the closest to the capital is Arandjelovac (75 km). The Bukovička Banya resort located here is over 200 years old. It was here that members of the Serbian royal dynasties vacationed, and now residents of the country happily come for the weekend. Accommodation in a 3-star hotel – from 1,700 rubles/day, in a 5-star hotel (with swimming pools with the same healing thermal water) – from 8,000 rubles.
Must-see places: a central park with marble sculptures and a source of drinking mineral water (come with your own container - 4 rubles / liter, two bottles of 0.5 each are allowed to be taken for free), Risovac Cave at the entrance to Arandjelovac - a refuge of Neanderthals (ticket from 100 rubles, open only during daylight hours), the Church of St. George in Topol is the fifth in the world in terms of mosaic area (more than 3.5 thousand sq. m, 15 thousand shades of color).
Autumn in the parks of Arandjelovac
3. Treat the thyroid gland
Zlatibor (the mountain of the same name, 230 km from Belgrade, at an altitude of more than 1000 meters above sea level) is a specialized health resort for the treatment of the thyroid gland, as well as respiratory diseases, anemia, and depression. Experts note here a special wind rose and favorable atmospheric pressure, which together provide a unique healing microclimate. Apartments – from 1200 rubles/day.
Must-see places: the highest mountain in the Tornik area, the open-air museum “Old Village”, recreating the life of the mountaineers down to the smallest detail, the old narrow-gauge railway “Shargan Eight”, the construction of which made it possible to overcome the Shargan pass and on which director Emir Kusturica filmed his famous film “Life as miracle". And don’t forget to have lunch at the national restaurant Perun.
Zlatibor is beautiful even in winter
4. Get involved in the culture
Not far from Zlatibor (about 30 km), surrounded by mountains, there is the village of Kusturica (various names: Mečavnik, Mokra Gora, Drvengrad). This is a wooden ethno-town built according to old designs - with streets (for example, Diego Maradona, Federico Fellini, Bruce Lee, Nikita Mikhalkov), houses, a church, a cafe-library, a hairdresser, a hotel, a gym, a swimming pool and saunas, and even a cinema. By the way, you can watch one of Kusturica’s films absolutely free of charge. However, only “Life is a Miracle” is currently available in Russian, and your session time must be booked in advance. In January, the Kustendorf film festival, organized by the director, traditionally takes place here. So Kusturica has her own permanent residence in the village (the house is very close to the cinema), but this is not advertised.
Important point: Coke and Pepsi lovers, be prepared - these drinks are not on sale here. This is the personal order of the Emir.
The largest city in the Balkans, the capital of the former Yugoslavia and now Serbia, is not the most popular destination among Russian tourists, which, frankly, is a bit of a shame, because Serbs love Russians, and without any reservations.
We found ourselves in Belgrade on the eve of May 9 and the first thing that caught our eye was a great many posters on the street dedicated to the 70th anniversary of Russia’s victory in the Great Patriotic War - in Croatia and Slovenia, through which our path lay, similar ones (for obvious reasons) we didn't observe.
In the photo: photo exhibition in Kalemegdan Park
In the kiosks of the central park of Kalemegdan they sell sweatshirts, the inscriptions on which read: “Russians and Serbs are brothers forever,” and as soon as a local resident finds out that you came from Russia, they immediately begin to communicate with you in Serbian, slowly drawing out every word , apparently, they assume that you will immediately understand them without a translator. You can feel whatever way you like about modern Russian politics, but the fact that Russians are loved in Belgrade is incredibly pleasant.
This compensates for many not entirely pleasant features of the Serbian capital, for example, dirt on the streets (compared to Zagreb, combed on all sides and cartoonish in the best sense of the word Ljubljana, Belgrade is, of course, littered to the fullest) and the eternal smell of tobacco - in the capital of Serbia, -it is still allowed to smoke indoors, and since most of the rooms are small and have a weak air conditioning system, there is no hiding from the smell of the old university smoking room.
But, as one of my friends, who has visited Belgrade several times, said, the main advantage of the city is that it is warm and sincere, and it is impossible to argue with this fact. Today’s article is about how to spend time in Belgrade efficiently and with pleasure if you go there for the weekend. I’ll make a reservation right away that I didn’t have the goal of telling about all the sights of the Serbian capital, and I’m only writing about what I’m personally ready to recommend to friends and acquaintances.
DAY ONE: EXPLORING THE HISTORICAL CENTER
BELGRADE FORTRESS
It makes sense to start getting acquainted with the city with the community of Stari Grad (in Belgrade there are not neighborhoods and districts, but communities) and the Belgrade Fortress And parkaKalemegdan, more precisely, the park was once part of the fortress; it is not for nothing that the name “Kalemegdan” itself is translated into Russian as “fortress field,” that is, a field outside the fortress walls. Nowadays the “field” has been transformed into a place for recreation for citizens with the obligatory carousels and playgrounds.
In the photo: haymaking between the fortress walls of the Belgrade Fortress
The Belgrade Fortress was erected, as befits a defensive structure, on a hill above the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, and next to the fortress there is another symbol of Belgrade - Monument to the Winner- a sculpture of a naked warrior with a sword and a hawk, who looks unkindly towards Austria-Hungary. By the way, this place is the best for taking panoramic photographs of the Danube, and an excellent background for selfies.
After taking photos, do not rush inside the fortress. First, take a walk along the fortress walls, which, like a complex multi-level labyrinth, encircle the hill on all sides. You can walk along them without fear of falling down - the walls are wide, and the opportunity to feel like Yaroslavna on the city wall does not come every day.
In the photo: a walk along the fortress walls - one of the local entertainments
If we talk about the history of the Belgrade fortress, then it was founded, according to sources that have reached us, as much as 2300 years ago. The Celts were the first to settle on a hill overlooking the Danube, and they erected the city of Singidunum here, which was later occupied by the Romans and then transferred to Byzantium. The Belgrade Fortress consists of the Upper and Lower cities; during its existence it was destroyed and rebuilt as many as 44 times, and over the long centuries of its existence it withstood about 115 battles (and these are only those that were mentioned in historical sources).
In the photo: the entrance to the Belgrade Fortress
After walking along the fortress walls, go look at the powerful round towers of the fortress. There are five of them in total, the most beautiful is the Clock Tower, but the towers erected here in the fifteenth century with the telling names “Fear” and “Don’t be afraid” have not survived to this day. There are 12 gates leading inside the fortress, the main ones are called Istanbul, since they were built by the Turks in the eighteenth century.
In general, the territory of the fortress is impressive in its size, there was room here for the Museum of Natural History, and for the Institute for the Conservation of Monuments of Belgrade, and for the National Observatory, and for the Military Museum, and for two churches, in short, after walking around the fortress for a couple of hours, you understand, that the city of Belgrade, located in ancient times on its territory, was not so small by the standards of that time.
How much time to spend visiting: 2 hours
Entrance to the fortress and park is free, but you will have to pay to visit museums.
STREET KNEZ MIKHAILOVA
From antiquity to modernity, more precisely, to Knez Mihailova street, which is located a stone's throw from Kalemegdan. The pedestrian street will remind many of our Arbat: there are also beautiful facades of houses built in the nineteenth century, some walls are decorated with graffiti, figured street lamps, a great many cafes with the obligatory summer verandas and, of course, shops.
When it comes to shopping in Belgrade, it makes sense to take a closer look at local brands, since the quality of their items is not bad, and the prices for creations by Serbian designers are relatively low. For those who love shopping abroad, I recommend checking out shoe stores, of which there are plenty on Knez Mihailova Street. You can buy funny slip-ons from Serbian designers or sneakers with funny prints, the cost of a pair is unlikely to exceed 50 euros.
In the photo: church near Kneza Mihailov and Kalemegdan streets
Along Kneza Mikhailov Street you will get to Republic Square- the central square of the city, in the center of which stands the monument to Prince Mikhail. There’s not much to do on the square itself, so we won’t linger here and head to the Skadarlie area.
SKADARLIA
However, Skadarlija- this is not even a district, but a street; to get here, you need to climb up the mountain along steps laid out with large paving stones. The place is not intended for motorists; you can only move here on foot and, preferably, in comfortable shoes (the paving stones in this area of the city are not just large, they are gigantic).
In the photo: in Skadarlija there are restaurants at every turn
Previously, artists, writers and nouveau riche lived in Skadarlija, which is why the architecture of the area is very unique, however, today the once luxurious, gingerbread-looking mansions are thoroughly dilapidated, and the facades of many are decorated with unimaginable graffiti. However, everything is generally fine; local street art masters express themselves on every more or less suitable wall in any district of the city.
Today Skadarlija is a quarter with countless cafes and restaurants. If you find yourself here in the late afternoon, you will be able to watch amusing musicians singing Serbian songs near the tables, and guests of the establishments happily sing along with them, while eating cevapcici. Sometimes you can see how restaurant guests are escorted home with an orchestra: a couple walks down the street, followed by a group of 3-5 musicians, so to speak, musical accompaniment according to the precepts of Kusturica’s films. However, if you remember that before the poets, gypsies lived in Skadarlija, then everything falls into place.
By the way, the residents of Belgrade themselves call this area an open-air museum and often compare it with Parisian Montmartre, which, in general, is justified, because almost all the artists and writers of Serbia lived and worked here, and the house of the artist and poet Djur Jaksic, also located in This quarter has today become a meeting place for Serbian poets.
"SUPERMARKET" - FOOD, SHOPPING AND CONCEPTUALITY
If in Skadarlija it makes sense to watch how people dine to the accompaniment of musicians who are at arm's length from them, and look into the local shops for souvenirs, then for good food and excellent shopping you should go to "Supermarket", which is located at 10 Vishiveva Street, in fact, it is about ten minutes walk from Skadarlija.
The “supermarket” is something like a Belgrade concept store; clothes from the best Serbian designers are sold here, whose names most likely won’t tell you anything, but the quality of the items is excellent, and the design is simply a sight for sore eyes. It is also captivating that the prices for conceptual skirts or jackets, reminiscent of modern variations on the theme of Chanel classics, are very inexpensive, that is, of course, more expensive than the mass market, but in general, a rare item from those presented here will cost you more than at 200 euros. And the quality and design, I repeat, are very high.
In the photo: you can’t just walk into a “Supermarket” and not take a selfie
In addition, the “Supermarket” also has an excellent restaurant, which serves dishes not only of Serbian, but also Italian cuisine, wines, again, not only local, but also from France and Italy. From the point of view of design and atmosphere, the “Supermarket” is thought out perfectly, not without reason, none of the girls who find themselves here can resist the vicious temptation to take a selfie in the local ladies’ room, because the toilet is decorated like a fitting room in the showroom of some fashion house . The audience at the “Supermarket” is young, progressive and has money, prices are higher than the city average, but the atmosphere of the place fully compensates for the costs.
EMBANKMENT BETON HALA
Since we have already visited the “Supermarket”, where the progressive youth of Belgrade gathers, why not continue our acquaintance with the conceptual places of the city and go to the Sava River embankment Beton Hala. Its appearance is reminiscent of both Moscow's Red October and the Vesterbro district of Copenhagen, but with a caveat - there is a lot of greenery. The design project for the embankment was developed in 2011 by the Spanish-Mexican architectural studio Sanzpont Arquitectura. Not all the architects’ ideas have yet been realized, but what has been done is impressive.
Establishments where you can taste Serbian and Montenegrin wines or have a delicious dinner are located wall to wall; adherents of a healthy lifestyle jog or ride past people relaxing with wine on street verandas or flouting the principles of a healthy lifestyle in other ways available to them. In my opinion, it is the Beton Hala embankment that is ideal for watching sunsets; after all, the red rays of the sun reflecting in the waters of the Sava River and a glass of red wine are something worth neglecting an evening jog for, especially during vacation.
Well, if you prefer traditional Belgrade to fashionable Belgrade, then I recommend checking out the restaurant Restaurant Gradska(address: Visokog Stevana 43A, website: ), which is located nearby in the Kalemegdan area. The interior of the restaurant is extremely unpretentious, and in general this place looks more like an ordinary eatery, but at the same time, the establishment invariably ranks number one in the Tripadviser rating.
Order local beer, cevapchichi (minced meat cutlets shaped like sausages) or river fish. Everything is very tasty, very inexpensive and with genuine Serbian flavor. An important point is that the portions in the restaurant are huge, so it makes sense to take one dish for two.
DAY TWO: TEMPLE OF ST. SAVA, MUSEUM OF THE GREAT TESLA AND MORE
The Temple of St. Sava, which, although still under construction, is considered one of the iconic landmarks of Belgrade, is located in the Vracar community, and you can get here from the Stari Grad community either by one of the trolleybuses or on foot.
In the photo: such masterpieces of street art can be found here at every step
When you find yourself in another part of Belgrade, more precisely, on Nemajina Street, you get the feeling that you are in a completely different city. The fact is that government offices are located on Nemaina Street, so the quarter is very clean, and the buildings here are tall and impressively monumental. However, not everything is so rosy. The fact is that it is on Nemajina Street that the infamous buildings of the General Staff and the Ministry of Defense are located, destroyed in 1999 during the bombing of Yugoslavia by NATO forces.
In the photo: a Belgrade building destroyed during NATO bombing
In order not to succumb to despondency (after all, looking at bombed buildings, your chest begins to ache, you know), go to a nearby bakery Pekara Trpkovic(address: Nemaina 32). In general, bakeries are the most popular cafe format in Belgrade, but this one is special: it has been open since 1908 and is still considered one of the best in the city. In a word, if you want to “indulge in buns,” then the place is most suitable, especially in the morning, and carbohydrates before 12.00 are allowed even for young ladies who are especially losing weight.
After having a snack, we head to the main point of the morning program of the second day - Church of Saint Sava. The temple, as the name implies, is dedicated to its founder, Saint Sava, who was the son of the Serbian ruler Stefan Nemanja.
Together with his father, Saint Sava built not only Orthodox monasteries and churches in Serbia, but also schools, and the current church was built on the site of the one that was burned by the Ottoman Turks in 1595. The church looks charming from the outside, but the interior is more than modest - the fact is that the construction of the temple is still underway.
NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM
The next item on the mandatory program is visiting Nikola Tesla Museum, which is located nearby at Krunska 51, website: . Perhaps Tesla is the most famous Yugoslav in history, and I used the word “Yugoslav” for a reason - the great scientist considered himself a Yugoslav and supported the idea of a united and great Yugoslavia. The Tesla Museum is a case where it makes sense to sign up for a tour rather than just look at the exhibits alone; fortunately, tours in English are held here several times a day.
In the photo: the building of the Nikola Tesla Museum
While visiting the museum, they will not only show you the cars invented by Tesla, but will also tell you why he went to America (in fact, he was just looking for sponsors for his inventions), where mini-models of his cars came from (in fact, with their help Tesla demonstrated to sponsors the principles of machine operation), and also why the Tesla coil (aka Tesla transformer) - a device for generating high-frequency oscillations - has not been widely used in practical life. Okay, okay, the answer to the last question is very simple: the financiers did not like the idea of free electricity for everyone, and they did not allocate money for the project, plus it turned out that people with a pacemaker cannot live near transformers, the pacemaker will simply explode in the chest.
In the photo: Tesla transformer model
Those who have a healthy heart are invited to experience the effects of the Tesla transformer for themselves right in the museum; guests are given light bulbs, the transformer turns on, and now you are the hero of the film “Prestige”, a light bulb lights up in your hands without any wires. In many reviews about the Tesla Museum, you can see information that the scientist’s personal belongings and manuscripts are kept here, but for some reason everyone is silent about one fact. The fact is that the Tesla Museum is also a mausoleum; a ball-shaped urn with the scientist’s ashes is kept here, because the convinced Yugoslav Nikola Tesla wanted his ashes to be brought to Belgrade after his death.
In the photo: an urn with the ashes of Nikola Tesla in the Belgrade Museum
After the cultural program, you can relax and go tasting local wines, fortunately, a suitable place is just nearby - Pampour Bar(address: Njegoseva 28a) is located just a five-minute walk from the Tesla Museum. Of course, Serbian wines are not as famous as Italian or French, but they also deserve attention, and at Pampour Bar their selection is huge, besides, the staff here works conscientiously and from the heart, they tell you about each type of wine with such feeling as as if they themselves have been doing nothing but blending all their lives. So, feel free to order a tasting set of wines and cheeses; by the way, you can have a full meal at Pampour Bar; the cuisine in the establishment is more than decent.
After lunch or tasting, take a stroll along Kraja Aleksandra Boulevard and Takovska Street, here you will see the Serbian Parliament building and the monumental St. Mark's Church— you can look inside, but, by and large, there is nothing special inside the church; from the outside it looks much more interesting.
In the photo: the building of the Serbian parliament. People's Assembly of Serbia
Nearby is another attraction of Belgrade - surrounded by a lovely flower garden Stari Dvor Palace, built by King Milan I Obrenovic in 1881 - 1884.
As for evening leisure, it is best to return to Stari Grad again and explore the boulevards adjacent to the Skadarlie quarter. Establishments of all kinds are open here on every corner: there are wine shops, hookah bars, and bars, as they say, for every taste and budget.
Just look around and decide which of the many places smiles at you the most - with such diversity, it’s easy to make a good choice.
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Yulia Malkova- Yulia Malkova - founder of the website project. In the past, he was the editor-in-chief of the elle.ru Internet project and the editor-in-chief of the cosmo.ru website. I talk about travel for my own pleasure and the pleasure of my readers. If you are a representative of hotels or a tourism office, but we do not know each other, you can contact me by email: [email protected]