Provideniya Bay (Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, Russia). Cape Providence Providence Bay Chukotka history of the name

Chukotka. Providence Bay.

To be honest, I even doubted whether it was worth posting this. But there are photos, maybe someone will find it interesting.
36 photos + some text.

What kind of village is this, and where did it even come from? Here's what Vicky says.
After the discovery of Providence Bay in 1660 by the Russian expedition of Kurbat Ivanov, fishing and wintering for whaling and merchant ships began to take place here regularly. At the beginning of the twentieth century, with the beginning of the development of the Northern sea route, a coal warehouse was organized on the coast of the bay to replenish fuel reserves for ships heading to the Arctic, and by 1934 the first buildings of the future seaport appeared here, which became the city-forming town for the village of Provideniya.

In 1937, with the arrival of a caravan of ships with building materials, the Providenstroy enterprise began active construction of a port and a village, and at the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Regional Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks adopted a resolution on the creation “in the Chukotka region of the working village of Provideniya on the basis settlement Main Northern Sea Route in Provideniya Bay."

On May 10, 1946, the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR was issued on the formation of the village of Provideniya, which is considered the official date of foundation of the settlement.

The village continued to quickly deteriorate, which was facilitated by the redeployment of military units here. In 1947, the first public building was built - a canteen.

And Vicky also tells us that..
Until the end of the 1980s, about 6,000 people lived in the village, but in the 1990s, due to the massive movement of residents to the mainland, the administrative unification of two villages took place - Ureliki and Provideniya. The initiator of such consolidations was the then governor Roman Abramovich.
Well, well, I’ll show you Ureliki too.

Actually, we were there not for photos, but for work. Sounding in the bay, topographical and geodetic work. So there are no normal, tourist photographs at all. There was simply no time.

They also rarely went to the village itself. To the store, if only, but their prices are different... Well, to the bathhouse on Wednesdays and Sundays.

The village, if anything, is also Providence. The most interesting thing they have there is a museum. The museum is small, but people who work there love it, you can see it right away. Naturally, prices for souvenirs are in dollars, since Alaska is very close, and American cruise ships often come.

Yes, Russians and Chukchi and Evenks live there... But this is not Pevek, all the local representatives of small nationalities are drunken alcoholics for the most part. No deer, no national clothes, no color. Everything that exists is only in the museum.

Whaling gun. They even let us hold him. Damn heavy, more than 11 kilos. Previously, they say, whales came into the bay and celebrated. We didn't see anything of this.

The photograph truly reflects what is happening in Providence. On the top and bottom of the newspaper there is the same ship.

Well, yes, it was worth going to Chukotka to see the plague in the museum..

Okay, let's go back to the village. At the exit from the port we are met by an American SUV. Ours can do no worse, and even better. UAZ proves this. The guy with the level is one of ours.

In general, you can actually get used to it if you want. The administration, as almost everywhere in small villages, is trying to work. They built a small sports complex and a swimming pool. There is a bus to the airport and around the village. More precisely, a shift shift, but in the absence of a stamp, as they say...

They even have something like holiday village. It's actually quite cozy there and a lot of fun. Although there is a problem with building materials.

Oh! I didn’t show you the port itself from the sea. It's like night. Polar day.

As you can see, there are very few people living here. There used to be more.

And the port itself is quite large.

Looks better during the day. Really like that sunny days they rarely go there. Very rarely. And it's still cold. Although we were there in July.

Ureliki, as promised. Sorry, but there are not enough photos. I don't like such "landscapes" in reality. Abramovich's leadership, yes. Once upon a time there were military people here (don't forget about Alaska).

Please, it happened by accident. I'll go cut off my hands

Another one. By the way, people work there. They even brought Uzbeks and Tajiks. They destroy everything there, demolish houses. And they tear it down pretty quickly.

Well, these Abarmovichs, here are a few photos from the hill. It's really very beautiful there, very fresh air, beautiful sea. Well, it’s cold, yes, it happens. This is Provideniya Bay from an altitude of approximately 430 meters above sea level.

The fog makes it difficult to take photos. Especially Provideniya Bay itself. In Komsomolskaya (a bay within a bay) the fogs come later and you can have time to photograph something. For example, the long-suffering Ureliks.

You can climb even higher on the downhill ski. I didn't want to go down, to be honest. Komsomolskaya Bay 1.

2. The village of Provideniya itself is just up to me.

3. Ureliki. The huge Istijed Lake is visible. The water in it is fresh and coho salmon live in it. Some kind of species listed in the Red Book. The lake is on the very right side of the photo, separated by a relatively narrow spit from the bay.

The fogs, what beautiful fogs there are. True, they got sick of them within a month, since they are endless.

Hills and fogs.. View from the pier.

The whales came into the bay. They're really unsociable. They didn’t want to be photographed, they refused to introduce themselves... I only managed to take a photo of my back.

It happens that they die there. Well, there are local whalers somewhere in smaller villages. Those Eskimos, Chukchi and others who live according to their old traditions. After them, this is what remains (not for the faint of heart).

And then this happens. There's a pool in the background, by the way.

Quote

Where are the girls? With Tits

Be satisfied.

I don't know if the inscription is visible. When the hills turn green, you can definitely see it. But we didn't wait.

Basov, for laziness and inaction in the field of writing, photographing and publishing all this, decided that it was still time to end the regime of silence and write something. Moreover, the reason is quite appropriate. My Providensky regime, already established in the “work-home-weekend-work” format, was violated by Evgeniy, and remembering last year’s plans to climb Beklemisheva, it was decided that on June 21 at 9-00...

A couple of days earlier, Basov presented his second (by no means the last) book, on the last page of which, among other worthy gentlemen, my name was modestly included. I never thought that it could easily happen to be published like this, but I won’t refuse yet! That's why you need to shoot!
Beklemisheva is perhaps the most important peak in the group of hills surrounding Emma Bay. using it, the seers judge whether there will be a flight to Anadyr today (visible or not visible?) or whether they will have to continue sitting on their suitcases. This is also the most visited hill, due to the presence highway, leading all the way to the top. At the same time, even after living in Providence all their lives, many manage to never visit it. And having heard about climbing it on foot, and not along the road, but head-on, without hesitation, they put their index finger to their temple and begin to twist it from side to side =).
At 9 am we are dropped off at the territory of the former border detachment in Ureliki, of which only a lonely 5-story house remains. Having walked along the spit separating the small lagoon from the bay, we find the first obstacle - a stream. Having decided that it would take too long to walk around, we move on, taking off our shoes.

1.You can still cross the second stream using the old wooden bridge...

2. Further, a road made of wooden (in some places iron) flooring leads to the abandoned outpost.

3. View from behind.

4. Outpost.

5. We climb up the watchtower. The structure is quite strong, but we walk on the flooring with caution. Below is a gallery leading from one building to another, reminiscent of a greenhouse. There is still waist-deep snow inside the gallery.

6. Omsk residents are everywhere
...

7. There is a shooting range/shooting range nearby. They shot at moving targets. Barrels filled with stones in a sieve...
.

8. At this point the horizontal part of the ascent ends and we begin to climb gradually. We go not head-on, but diagonally, going around the top of the nearest hill, gradually gaining height. There is no point in climbing high - there must be a valley ahead. I don't want to lose altitude. We reach the descent.

After a short break, the main ascent begins. By this time I’m starting to understand that I’m bound to get burned =). Long johns, taken thanks to excessive (it’s noticeably hot) forethought, become a turban.

9. Some time after the start of the climb, the first signs of an excellent view from above appear. Emma Bay begins to be visible from behind the slope of the neighboring hill.

10. The climb, which seemed quite steep from the outside, is actually not so scary. But still, almost every 30-40 meters of ascent is a halt. Basov, understandably, is not satisfied with this speed; approximately halfway up the climb he breaks away. I always thought that you need to climb at least in pairs, just in case something goes wrong. But upon reflection, I decide that this is even better. He doesn’t have to sit on the rocks for a long time waiting for me to catch up with him, and I don’t have to try to keep up with the experienced one. Therefore, in my own rhythm, I puff upward in zigzags... the time has come for moral and strong-willed ones.

11. After some time, the target becomes visible upward - the antenna.

12. Got there. We decide to have a snack. After snacking on cognac and grapefruit, discussing the situation in the world, etc., etc., we begin our inspection.

13.

14. Providence Bay

15. The sea is not visible - above the water there is a continuous veil of fog, which, entering the bay with thin feathers, rises higher and becomes clouds.

16. A village is visible in the distance.

17. Abandoned ruins of Ureki. The territory of the border detachment reclaimed last summer.

18. Cape of the Century.

19. Some more antennas.

20.

21. Inside the building, on the wall of the rest room, there is a nice panel of Russian pop music rhythms.

22. Evgeniy climbs to plant the flag of the “Guardians of Chukotka”

23.

24.

25. While I was looking for wire to attach the flag, I saw a toilet like a toilet. A closet at the end of the earth.

26. After wandering around a little more, we find an excellent lounge area. Sit down. We collected melt water, which flows into the tank. Cold.

27. On the way back, Evgeniy decides to take a walk to Cape Puzina through another hill. I don't have enough for this anymore. I will go down and wait for him on the spit from which we began our ascent. Taking the bottle of water he had collected from upstairs, he went on his way. There are hundreds of streams along the way. Many of them can only be heard from under the stones, but not visible. Murmuring everywhere.

I'm going down to the airfield. I decide to go around the lagoon from the other side, because returning through the shooting range is now a detour for me. On the way to the stream that feeds the lagoon, I understand that the stream that seemed narrow from above is actually quite a river. Even as we approached it, the stones under our feet gave way to something spongy and swampy, and our boots, already wet, were now soaked through with water. Having jumped over the river, getting my feet wet once again, I continue on my way to the spit. On the way to the gathering place, a call will be made. Evgeniy will be there in 15 minutes. I sit down on some boxes and take off my boots. I'm drying myself. After drying out a little and getting bored from doing nothing, I begin to photograph the fauna. The fauna is not too keen to get any closer.

28.

29.

30. When the fauna ended, it was the turn of the enveloping inanimate nature.

31. A few minutes later, Basov appears, having been somewhat delayed. The car is already following us. Let's go to Ureliki.

Sometimes I miss communication, I just want to talk to someone. There are generally very few people in Chukotka. You can ride a motorcycle all day and not meet anyone. In principle, this suits me; I’m used to traveling alone. Sometimes for several days on a trip you don’t say a word, and I don’t like talking to myself.

I have lived in Chukotka since I was two years old, one might say, my whole life, and I was born in the Krasnoyarsk Territory, on the Taimyr Peninsula. It is too Far North. In general, I have lived in the Arctic all my life. Perhaps that is why my place of residence seems ideal to me. For example, when I’m on vacation, I big cities I feel uncomfortable with all this fuss around. I want to quickly return home to Chukotka.

You hardly see any non-locals at home. There are tourists, of course, but mostly foreigners come on cruise ships: they wander around the village in crowds for several hours and then sail on. I think it is very difficult for an ordinary tourist to enter the territory of Chukotka. Firstly, this is a border zone, and secondly, it is very expensive. An airplane is not the cheapest form of transport. They fly here from Anadyr: once a month in winter and once a week in summer.

My main hobby is motorcycle riding. I love to climb mountains, walk alone on the tundra and visit abandoned, dead towns, which we have had plenty of since the days of the Iron Curtain. On our side of the bay is the village of Provideniya, and on the opposite side is Ureliki, a dead and abandoned military town. I go there often, just wandering along the empty streets, looking at the gaping, broken windows of the buildings.

This fall I examined local school, the building is in a very depressing condition, it could be a horror movie: everywhere broken glass, water is dripping from the ceiling, the wind is blowing through the corridors. I know some graduates of this school, they are already adults, sometimes they come to their school, but cannot even gather in their own classroom. They sit in the courtyard, barbecue and complain that the alumni meeting now has to be held on the street, since only the walls remain from their home school.

I used to not be afraid to wander through abandoned buildings, but now I feel afraid. It seems as if there is something alive in these houses, so I completely stopped going into dark rooms: basements, long corridors and rooms without windows. But I am drawn to these houses, I love to wander through places that have no future: to visit old hunting and fishing lodges.

It’s always interesting for me when traveling to suddenly find an old geologists’ house in the tundra. I love reading inscriptions on walls. For example: “Andrey Smirnov. Chukotka. Summer 1973." Questions immediately arise in my head: “Who was this Andrei? What was he doing in Chukotka in 1973? What was his future fate, where is he now?” And so on. This all excites and interests me madly.

“Active construction of the village began in 1937. A caravan of ships from the Providenstroy enterprise arrived here. First of all, it was necessary to build a port. At the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Regional Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks adopted a resolution on the creation of the workers' village of Provideniya in the Chukotka region. The village continued to develop rapidly, and military units were relocated here. The first public building, the canteen, was built only in 1947.

From the memoirs of Lyudmila Adiatullina, Perm:

— My father, Vasily Andreevich Borodin, reached Prague during the war. Then his unit was loaded onto trains and sent across all of Russia to the Far East to Providence Bay, where he served for another five years.

It was very difficult; for two years they lived in six-panel tents, among rocky stone hills. The bunks were made of stones, with reindeer moss placed on top. Four were sleeping, and the fifth was heating the stove. In the morning, sometimes my hair froze to the tent. This one was covered in snow tent city, people dug each other out, made catering units and officer houses out of logs, defensive structures and even roads.

In the second year, little fuel was delivered, and in order not to freeze, the military looked for dwarf birch trees and tore them out by the roots; they split bricks and soaked stones in barrels of kerosene. The stoves were already lit with this. It’s good that the Chukchi suggested that not far from the unit’s location there were coal mines developed by the Americans. When they were asked to leave there in 1925, they blew everything up and covered it with earth. The soldiers re-developed these mines in a primitive way, carrying coal 30 km in backpacks and on skis. And yet they survived.

Then we rode dogs and reindeer, renting them from the Chukchi. The snow was cut with saws, carried on sleighs and made into water. Only in the third year did they begin to build soldiers’ barracks from wooden blocks. The barracks were large, the size of a division. There were no builders among the soldiers, but life taught us everything. In September 1950, everyone was demobilized. They were not at home for seven years: two years in the war and five years in Chukotka.”

The village of Provideniya itself is an ordinary northern port town with monuments to the devastation of the nineties, bad roads and kind, sympathetic people. Some come here simply to earn a “northern” pension and leave. They don’t understand the beauty of the North; it’s for visitors - cold, snow and stones. Some people, on the contrary, are crazy about mountains, northern lights, whales, and other romance. I am one of those people.

All the most interesting things are located outside our village: a base for sea hunters, a whale cemetery, the remains of military installations, ancient Eskimo sites, underground hot springs. In the summer I go to the ocean on a motorcycle all the time, I like to walk everywhere, climb hills, wander through unknown places.

And what animals can you stumble upon! I saw: whales, seals, wolves, brown and polar bears, foxes, arctic foxes, wolverines, hares, eurasians, ermine, lemmings and a bunch of different birds. Only bears and wolves are dangerous to humans. A gun, I think, of course, is not a superfluous thing in the tundra, and just in wildlife, but it just so happened that I spent my entire life without it. Maybe I was lucky, but if I came across bears, I was always on a vehicle, on a snowmobile or motorcycle. But if you travel on foot, then it is better to take a gun or at least a flare gun: some kind of firecrackers to scare away predators.

One day I came across the wreckage of an airplane. Once I was driving along the shore of a lake and saw something on the side of a hill. I climbed in and it turned out that it was a LI-2 plane. He crashed here in the seventies. Below I saw a memorial plaque and sign. Many more aircraft wrecks can be found on the territory of military installations. All this remains from the times of the Soviet army.

Mobile phone reception here. The Internet, however, is expensive and very slow. That’s why everyone here is sitting in WhatsApp chats. A megabyte of mobile traffic costs nine rubles.

There is also some kind of work. Power plant, boiler room, border services, police, sea port and the airport.

There are about fifteen shops here. Everything in them is very expensive, because goods are imported by ship. What was thrown by plane is even more expensive. Fruits and vegetables can cost 800-1000 rubles per kilogram, and those unloaded from ships are half the price. Things are mostly Chinese rubbish from Vladivostok. I don’t buy them here at all, I order everything through online stores or buy them on the mainland. Many people do this.

For children there is a garden, a school, a ski section, sports complex. In general, you can live. Fans of northern Providence will love it.

Vasily Mitrofanov

Provideniya Bay

What is it like to live in the Arctic and cross the tundra on a snowmobile?

– Sometimes I miss communication, I just want to talk to someone. There are generally very few people in Chukotka. You can ride a motorcycle all day and not meet anyone. In principle, this suits me; I’m used to traveling alone. Sometimes for several days on a trip you don’t say a word, and I don’t like talking to myself.

I have lived in Chukotka since I was two years old, one might say, my whole life, and I was born in the Krasnoyarsk Territory, on the Taimyr Peninsula. This is also the Far North. In general, I have lived in the Arctic all my life. Perhaps that is why my place of residence seems ideal to me. For example, when I’m on vacation, in big cities I feel uncomfortable with all the fuss around. I want to quickly return home to Chukotka.

This fall I inspected the local school, the building is in a very depressing condition, it would be like making a horror movie: broken glass everywhere, water dripping from the ceiling, wind blowing through the corridors. I know some graduates of this school, they are already adults, sometimes they come to their school, but cannot even gather in their own classroom. They sit in the courtyard, barbecue and complain that the alumni meeting now has to be held on the street, since only the walls remain from their home school.

Active construction of the village began in 1937. A caravan of ships from the Providenstroy enterprise arrived here. First of all, it was necessary to build a port. At the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Regional Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks adopted a resolution on the creation of the workers' village of Provideniya in the Chukotka region. The village continued to develop rapidly, and military units were relocated here. The first public building, the canteen, was built only in 1947.

From the memoirs of Lyudmila Adiatullina, Perm:

- My father, Vasily Andreevich Borodin, reached Prague during the war. Then his unit was loaded onto trains and sent across all of Russia to the Far East to Providence Bay, where he served for another five years.

It was very difficult; for two years they lived in six-panel tents, among rocky stone hills. The bunks were made of stones, with reindeer moss placed on top. Four were sleeping, and the fifth was heating the stove. In the morning, sometimes my hair froze to the tent. This tent city was covered with snow, people dug each other out, made catering units, officer houses, defensive structures and even roads out of logs.

The village of Provideniya itself is an ordinary northern port town with monuments to the devastation of the nineties, bad roads and kind, sympathetic people. Some come here simply to earn a “northern” pension and leave. They don’t understand the beauty of the North; it’s for visitors – cold, snow and stones. Some people, on the contrary, are crazy about mountains, northern lights, whales, and other romance. I am one of those people.

And what animals can you stumble upon! I saw: whales, seals, wolves, brown and polar bears, foxes, arctic foxes, wolverines, hares, eurasians, ermine, lemmings and a bunch of different birds. Only bears and wolves are dangerous to humans. A gun, I think, of course, is not a superfluous thing in the tundra, and simply in the wild, but it just so happened that I spent my entire life without it. Maybe I was lucky, but if I came across bears, I was always on a vehicle, on a snowmobile or motorcycle. But if you travel on foot, then it is better to take a gun or at least a flare gun: some kind of firecrackers to scare away predators.

The night was quite warm, the wind was not strong. From Cape Chaplino we walked along the lighthouse lights, of which there are many - the navigation was excellent!

Early in the morning we passed the Plover Spit, which blocks almost half the entrance to Providence Bay, and got in touch by radio with the border guards and the port. They were waiting for us at the port and very kindly and sympathetically told us in detail the entry and place of anchorage.

At seven in the morning we moored at the SPA, whose crew was also very pleasant and welcoming. There were already young border guard officers here. After border formalities, we talked about our journey. It was still early, and it was Sunday. We announced our arrival the day before, but the planned arrival time was 12-14 hours. In order not to wake anyone up or put anyone on edge, they decided to wait until at least nine or the beginning of ten.

Some were dozing, some were communicating, some were dealing with small household issues. The weather is cloudy in the morning, so perhaps the most beautiful bay in Chukotka also looks gloomy.

The village of Provideniya itself, with its house foundations embedded in a hill with fairly steep slopes, evokes mixed impressions. A sort of mixture of vigorous and cheerful Pevek mixed with sad Tiksi. Some of the houses are bright and multi-colored (it turned out later that they were not even painted, but lined with multi-colored polymer material, which is much more durable than paint).

Some are gray, boarded up tightly. Here and there you can see gray spots of dilapidated old industrial buildings. And at the same time, on a high spur on the edge of the village there is an amazingly beautiful two-story building in the style of northern Scandinavia (it turned out to be a set for the film “Territory”, which was filmed here not long ago).

There was a mobile connection, but the Internet did not want to work at all. By the way, the megaphone-Internet did not work that day, and therefore our plans for sending materials failed - we are transporting further, now, probably, to Egvekinot.

At the beginning of nine we call the head of the Providensky district, Sergei Shestopalov. He is already on his feet, aware that we have arrived and promises to be there very soon. Literally ten minutes later on the spa deck we meet the head - a good-natured, pleasant and cheerful man. We quickly discuss our plans, and in order not to stand in the wind, we are offered to continue communication in the cabin of the hospitable spa crew. From there, Sergey makes a series of short calls, at the same time Voloboy communicates with the SPA captain about weather forecasts. The captain turns out to have a very good and detailed wind forecast map, which is very important for us.

Ten to fifteen minutes later the “loaf” arrives and the crew of “Andrey” is taken to the hotel on the first flight. Another ten minutes later and we were already in the car heading there. A very cozy hotel with a fairly recent renovation and all the benefits of civilization - a hostel of the European level. Here the hostess is already meeting us and fussing about. Everyone is settled, and our program for today is already planned minute by minute:
11.30 – Bathhouse
14.00 – Museum
15.30 – Departure to the national Eskimo village of New Chaplino, meeting at school, concert, communication.

If we manage to do all this and stay alive - a meeting at the Providence club with local residents. If we don’t go further tomorrow morning, then at 10 am we will have a meeting at the Administration, and then we’ll see.

We are absolutely satisfied with the plan, but we honestly say right away that we are leaving unconditionally in the morning, since the forecast is still good, but it is getting worse towards the second half of the week. Then we proceed according to plan. We understand that over time it becomes stressful - before the bathhouse we run to the store to buy something for lunch and buy a little extra fresh food for kochi.

At 11.30 we are already in the bathhouse. Public bathhouse. But, what! Clean, cozy, spacious, excellent steam room, relaxation room with tables - in general, it would seem, well, a bathhouse and a bathhouse... No, nothing like that! BATH!!! You probably won't understand this on the mainland. Since not many people go to the bathhouse and not so often. Those who go to Moscow and truly appreciate the bathhouse go to Sanduny. Well, one way or another, there are different baths and saunas, of which there are a great many with an incomprehensible format (either a bathhouse, or “at the same time you can wash yourself”). But it’s not often that you see a public bathhouse in such excellent condition and a wonderful bathhouse culture (regulars, communication, traditions), which is increasingly being lost! And, what is a bathhouse for us, who have been traveling for fifty days by water, and there is no need to even say! There was a very good bathhouse in Pevek. But it was not a “public bath” format.

In general, our admiration knew no bounds and for the entire two hours we were immensely and infinitely happy! Along the way, we told the local steamers about our expedition - why waste time - these are great informal meetings!
Having bowed a million times to the hostess, we hurry to grab a quick snack and head to the museum.

MUSEUM! And again shock! We're knocked out! Two floors of real local history! An excellently constructed exhibition throughout the halls, a very rich collection of exhibits - in everything one can see the skill and professionalism multiplied by the invested soul of the museum staff!

Our guide and senior researcher Igor Aleksandrovich, whom we simply bombard with questions, answers everything, managing to tell a lot more about everything in between.
The museum's archaeological collection is especially impressive!

We are completely behind schedule because we cannot stop asking questions. The conversation continues here, but in the administrative office over tea with a lot of all sorts of goodies! But we understand that next is the school in Novy Chaplino and they are waiting for us there! Igor Aleksandrovich willingly volunteers to come with us and continue communication on the road!

Provideniya Bay (Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, Russia). Cape Providence Providence Bay Chukotka history of the name

Provideniya Bay

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