Tenerife is the island of eternal spring. Tenerife. Island of Eternal Spring. Attractions and entertainment

Madeira is an amazing blooming green island in the Atlantic Ocean, where a modest, leisurely and patriarchal life takes place. For its exceptionally mild climate, tonic and restorative, Madeira received the name of the island of eternal spring. My visit to the island was in January, and it’s spring here.

Translated from Portuguese, "Madeira" means "forest, tree." Indeed, the forest covering the island is diverse, or rather, there are 145 species of trees! Palm trees and beautiful subtropical flowers and fruits also grow here in large numbers. Orchids, callas, bouganvilleas, hydrangeas, magnolias, azaleas, and lilies bloom at any time of the year. The symbol of the island is the Strelitzia flower, which looks like a fantastic red bird.

First impressions and meetings

Impression. January 22. The airport in Madeira is one of the ten most dangerous airports in the world, as it requires pilots to perform special maneuvers. Before landing, the plane must first be directed towards the mountains, and almost at the very last moment, abruptly change the direction of flight and enter the runway. I saw and felt all this on the Easy Jet airline plane that took me to the island from Lisbon. Our landing was successful, unlike the Boeing 727 landing in November 1977, which killed 131 people.

An interesting fact is that Madeira International Airport was renamed in 2016 in honor of the football player Cristiano Ronaldo. Ronaldo was born in the island's capital, Funchal, in 1985. And even earlier, a bronze monument was erected in the city and a museum was opened in his honor, and one of the squares of Funchal was named after the football player.

Meetings. At the airport I was met by a young German named Beno. My friend Alexander Sobetsky from Ukraine asked him about this. It’s interesting that I met Alexander earlier, when he hitchhiked me along the Lviv-Kyiv highway. Then Alexander said that he used to live in Madeira and expressed his readiness to help when I planned a visit to the island. And now, after two years, he kept his word and practically organized all 4 days of my stay in Madeira.

Ben was supposed to take me to a fellow countrywoman from the Zhitomir region, Valentina, who now lives in Funchal with her daughter Oksana. On the way into the city, Ben showed me a beautiful spot on the coast with a beach between the cliffs below and views of the capital in the distance. There is also a large statue of Jesus Christ, similar to the one in Rio de Janeiro.

Valya greeted me very warmly and prepared Ukrainian borscht. I was given a whole room where I felt great all the days of my stay in Madeira. After breakfast, Valya took me to the center of Funchal and showed me a park overlooking the harbor, where there was a huge cruise ship.

After that, I continued to walk around the city on my own. Funchal is scattered on the slopes of the mountains, and the center is located below, on the ocean.

Getting to know Funchal

Funchal is the capital of the autonomous region of Madeira. It is a colorful city with stunning mountain views. There are no traffic jams, almost no crime and little other nonsense. There is delicious coffee, good weather and comfortable living conditions. The city has a pleasant atmosphere and residents lead a leisurely life. Smiling, handsome young people walk the streets, and the parks and embankment are full of walking townspeople with dogs. The houses are decorated with flowers, the streets are tiled with white markings, as is customary in Portugal.

In the center of Funchal there are many tourists who sit in cafes and drink coffee while listening to pleasant music. An atmosphere of joy and safety reigns.

I toured some of the sights of the capital. For example, built at the end of the 17th century, the Palace of the Regional Government contains panels of polychrome tiles for 300 years. And the fortress-palace of St. Lawrence is a monumental complex considered the most impressive example of civil and military architecture on the island of Madeira. The cathedral is considered the oldest religious building on the island. It rises right in the center of the city.

After lunch I went out to the embankment to admire the ocean. They say you can sometimes see whales right here, but I wasn't lucky today. All I saw was a full harbor of yachts and a huge cruise ship in port. Also in the port there was an old sailing ship, which is an original copy of the Santa Maria, the caravel of the navigator Columbus.

Along the embankment I came to the old part of the city, where from afar my attention was attracted by an ancient yellow building. This is Fort San Tiago, built in 1614, which currently houses a museum of modern art and a pleasant restaurant overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

For some time I stood motionless and peered into the distance, wanting to see whales, but there were none. Screaming seagulls circled overhead, begging for food.

Let's look at Funchal from above

There were about three hours left before dinner and I decided that I would have time to climb to the upper part of the city, where some green park was visible among the clouds. This is where the cable car went, which intrigued me even more. But I still went up on a bus, which jerked its way up the narrow streets.

I got off the bus next to that green park, which turned out to be lush as well. In general, Monte Park is the most popular among tourists and various exotic plants grow here.

I was allowed into the park for free with my NSJU journalist ID, but there was only half an hour left before closing, so I only had time to quickly walk around and take a quick look.

I decided to go down on foot, although the local guys tried to persuade me to ride a toboggan and a basket sleigh.

But this entertainment is more suitable for extreme sports enthusiasts. By the way, tobogganing is a Maderian folk sport, when you are lowered down in a wooden sleigh at a decent speed (up to 48 km/h) along the asphalt by two carreiros in straw hats. The route is about 2 km and will get you there in about 10 minutes, the risk of this kind is worth 25 euros. Would you go?

I walked down Torrina Street without any extreme, passing luxurious summer country houses. And what a magnificent view of the ocean from above. I will never forget the sight of a huge cruise ship sailing into the distance at sunset. My day also ended and at Valya’s house a Ukrainian dinner with potatoes and pleasant communication awaited me.

Let's go to Santana

January 23. For a trip to Santana, in the north of the island of Madeira, a good company gathered: Valya and her daughter Oksana, Andrea - Oksana's friend, as well as the Portuguese Francisco, our driver. This trip was specially planned for me to show beautiful places and the Theme Park.

Along the way, we stopped several times at viewpoints to get a good look at the mountains and ocean. Green mountains against the backdrop of the blue Atlantic are a very beautiful sight. And the cannons under the oak tree on the edge of the cliff are completely original. Mimosa smells everywhere, and eucalyptus smells higher up in the mountains.

The weather changes very often. It happened that we entered a tunnel - the sun was shining, we left it - it was already raining. The January weather in Madeira is very capricious, but this did not spoil the overall positive impression.

Coffee time was organized in Santana. The Portuguese Francisco turned out to be a cheerful and interesting conversationalist. He loves Ukrainians very much and is aware of all the events in our country. I decided to stay in Santana and spend time at the Theme Park while the group went to the ocean for a barbecue.

Santana is a pleasant and cozy city. Every house has many, many pots of flowers, the whole town is simply buried in flowers. On the rooftops, locals dry corn and pumpkin seeds. Grandparents tirelessly dig into their gardens. No sooner have one potato crop been dug up than a new one is planted. And potatoes in Madeira are the size of an average eggplant, and the holes for them are made with sapa, which is 4 times larger than ours. Well, it’s the same village as our villages, albeit more beautiful.

Madeira Theme Park

The theme park in Santana is an open-air museum divided into separate areas, the visit of which combines the history of Madeira with the pleasure of contact with nature. They let me into the park again for free, but I promised the director to write a report, which is what I’m doing now. They armed me with a map of the park, gave me a ticket and wanted to assign a guide, but I refused.

Here you can see, visit and touch traditional Madeiran houses, as well as outbuildings such as a mill, barn or bakery. The main visiting card of the park is the traditional triangular houses with thatched roofs. Inside the islanders' home there is a simple furnishing - a kitchen with utensils, a bedroom with a wooden bed and an image of the Virgin Mary.

In addition to historical buildings, the park has a number of installations, children's playgrounds and attractions.

In the middle of the park there is a lake into which streams flow, across which there are cute wooden bridges.

I also watched two films - about the history of Madeira and about the nature of the island. To watch it, I was strapped into a chair, which I didn’t immediately understand. But, during the second film, when the lights were turned off and, to enhance the impression, the chair under me began to move according to the plot, I understood everything. For example, riding a horse, looking down from a hang glider, or a hole in the road were accompanied by corresponding movements of the chair.

There were practically no visitors and I had to look for a mini-train driver to take me for a ride around the park. As if saying goodbye, I drove through all the places where I had just walked on foot. On the way out, I thanked the director and left autographs on my business card for some of the employees. At 16-00 I met my travel companions and we returned to Funchal.

In the evening I also managed to visit the museum of the football player Cristiano Ronaldo. Not far from the museum, on the embankment there is also a monument to Ronaldo. It is noticeable that it is very popular on the island, especially among teenagers.

At the port, I went to Fort de Nossa Senhor Conceijao, which rises on a cliff 10 meters high. At the entrance I was met by a man who asked for 2 euros for entry. When I said that I was a journalist, he let me in for free. At the top there is a platform for viewing the ocean, and inside the room there are items related to navigation. But the most interesting thing is that this piece of rock with a building claims independence from Madeira. Local authorities perceive this idea with sarcasm, but do not in any way prevent the owner of the fort from expressing his position.

Trip to the Valley of the Nuns

January 24. In the morning I took bus number 81 to the mountains, to the village of Curral das Freiras. This village is located in the crater of a long-extinct volcano, in the deepest valley of the island. The 16th-century convent of St. Clare, which in the past served as a refuge for nuns from frequent pirate raids, has been preserved here.

The path to Curral das Freiras was not easy. The bus rushed up the narrow winding roads, where in some places it was impossible for two cars to pass each other. The road is simply scary, because in some 30 centimeters there is a deep abyss. And the driver confidently drives the bus at the maximum permissible speed. When turning, your palms, mice and everything else sweat. There are no plains in Madeira; there was nowhere to even build an airport.

I went out on the rock of Eiro to the Cerrada, at an altitude of 1,094 meters.

The bus continued on, but it was interesting to look down from the observation deck at Curral das Freiras. The views from the observation deck are stunning, but you need to catch moments to take photos, as the clouds cover and reveal the valley every few minutes. From a dizzying height you can see the Curral das Freiras, sandwiched on both sides by ridges and the highest peaks - Ruivo and Arieiro. The wind blew me off my feet, but the mesmerizing view from the height did not let me go for about an hour until I froze.

I decided to walk down the paved path to the village, which seemed so small from above.

I had to jump over the rocks like mountain goats. Along the way I met only a few tourists, and after 40 minutes I was already in the center of Curral das Freiras and looking up at the cliff from which I had just descended. It turned out to be much warmer below; the difference in altitude of 800 meters was immediately felt. But I still warmed myself up with tea, after which I returned to Funchal by bus along that same terrible road.

Upon returning to the capital, I went to the embankment again, but there were still no whales... I was waiting for them like polar bears on Spitsbergen, but today they were in a different place. But I believe that in the future my dream of seeing whales at close range will definitely come true.

I'm leaving Madeira

The 25th of January. I am very grateful to my fellow countrymen Valentina and Oksana for their warm hospitality, but it’s time to say goodbye. At 7:30 am Beno stopped by to take me to the airport. It's called, where you took it, you returned it there)) In the morning the city is still asleep, there are almost no cars on the road, but there is such a beautiful ocean that it was a pity to leave.

I have a flight to Lisbon with the same English airline Easy Jet. I noticed an overly strict attitude towards the carry-on baggage allowance and its placement on the shelves in the cabin. The flight attendants personally corrected everything and distributed it evenly. There was a little nervousness on takeoff as I thought about the short runway ending with an overpass and a drop into the ocean. But our pilot lifted the plane professionally. And when I saw rare clouds below against the background of the blue Atlantic, I completely calmed down and fell asleep.

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Washed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, six hundred kilometers from the western coast of Africa, the island of Madeira is located - the largest of the islands of the archipelago of the same name. In fact, the island of Madeira is the top of a volcano, the height of which relative to the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean is about 6 km. Moreover, its last eruptions occurred 6500 years ago, which by geological standards is not that long.

The island of Madeira, like the entire archipelago, belongs to Portugal and is its autonomous region. It is officially believed that the island owes its discovery to the Portuguese navigator Joao Gonçalves Zarque. This event occurred in 1420, marking the beginning of the Age of Discovery. Although, in fact, mentions of the islands of the archipelago appeared earlier. The colonists who arrived on the island cut down forests, built canals, and gradually developed agriculture. And within a few years, the first wheat grown on the island began to arrive in Portugal. But the bulk of the income in those days came from the trade in sugar produced from cane cultivated on the island’s plantations. Later, when competition from such large sugar suppliers as Brazil intensified significantly, wine and in particular the famous Madeira became the main export product. To this day, this drink is supplied to many countries around the world. The island of Madeira became a famous resort back in the 19th century, attracting the attention of members of the royal houses and aristocracy with its beautiful nature and wonderful climate. Winston Churchill, Margaret Thatcher, Bernard Shaw, Karl Bryullov and many other famous personalities loved to relax here.

Madeira's climate is truly unique in many ways. Formed under the influence of ocean currents, it is extremely soft and stable. Madeira is the island of eternal spring. There is no winter as such here. The range of average annual temperatures ranges from 16 (in January) to 23 (in September) degrees. The bulk of precipitation falls in winter, but in summer, rain is quite rare. On the other hand, the mountainous landscape contributes to the creation of many microclimatic zones. The weather can vary significantly in different parts of the island; if it rains in the northwest, dry, sunny weather is quite likely in the Funchal area. All this contributes to the development of Madeira's natural diversity.

Funchal

There are few cities in Madeira, or rather, a city, in the full sense of the word, there is only one - Funchal. Well, maybe with some stretch, Santa Cruz, a small town on the east coast of the island, falls under this definition. I wouldn’t dare call the rest of the settlements of Madeira cities, but this does not mean at all that they are not of interest to tourists, rather the opposite, but more on that later.

Funchal is a city with a population of just over 100,000 people located on the southeast coast of Madeira. Moreover, the entire population of the autonomous region, of which Funchal is the capital, numbers about 250,000 people. It owes its name to the funcho plant, which grows in Madeira and is used in the production of confectionery.

Funchal is a major port, as well as the cultural and tourist center of the region. It is also an ancient and very beautiful city, located on gently sloping slopes to the ocean. Historic buildings and houses with red tiled roofs form an architectural ensemble typical of Mediterranean cities. The famous promenade, which runs between the harbor and the beautiful botanical gardens, leads to the western beach, where you can enjoy unparalleled ocean views.

The old part of the city with narrow cobblestone streets, ancient churches and white houses of local residents is imbued with the spirit of history. Walking through its neighborhoods will allow you to plunge into the past, better feel the local flavor, and get acquainted with the history of Madeira. Here is the Gothic Se Cathedral, built in the 16th century, one of the oldest cathedrals on the island.

The eastern part of Funchal is home to many boutiques and shops. There are no large malls here and perhaps shopping may seem boring to some, but nevertheless, in Funchal you can buy something that you cannot buy in other places. Delicate connoisseurs of handmade work will appreciate bordados – original embroideries made using Irish linen. This pleasure is not cheap, but everyone can afford to buy at least a handkerchief embroidered by local craftsmen.

And yet, the main attraction of the city is the botanical gardens. The favorable local climate and hard work of the inhabitants turn Funchal into a greenhouse blooming all year round. The largest garden in the city features a huge number of tropical plants, among whose branches flocks of colorful parrots flutter.

By taking the funicular you can climb Mount Monte to see the city from above. The most exciting part of this journey will be the descent from the mountain on a kind of wicker sled, driven by two men. The sled flies along the asphalt of the streets no worse than from an ice slide, developing a decent speed, the runners heat up from friction to such an extent that the smell of burning wood is felt. Now it is an attraction for the entertainment of the public, but once upon a time, people and goods were transported in this way.

Funchal is charming at any time of the year. But during the Christmas period it becomes simply fabulous. The streets of the city sparkle and shimmer with an abundance of colorful garlands, and street performers and cafe waiters dressed in fancy dress create an extraordinary atmosphere of celebration and general fun. And above all this, the scent of blooming orchids fills the evening air.

Funchal is also the birthplace of Cristiano Ronaldo; there is even a museum of the famous football player.

Attractions and entertainment

Madeira Island is a wonderful ecotourism destination. The amazing nature and amazing landscapes of the island cannot leave anyone indifferent. No wonder Winston Churchill himself loved to spend time here, retiring in the fishing village of Camara de Lobos and painting landscapes.

Not far from Funchal is the Cape of Cabo Girao with a cliff rising on it. The rock, protruding far into the ocean, rises above its level to a height of 589 meters, offering a grandiose view from its top. In the deep waters surrounding the cliff, you can often see whales swimming here in search of food. This place attracts fans of extreme sports such as base jumping and paragliding.

One of the most beautiful places in Madeira is a waterfall with the romantic name of the Bridal Veil. Erupting from a sheer rock at an altitude of about 200 meters, its jets diverge downward and really resemble a veil, the edge of which descends into the ocean. An excellent view of the waterfall and the abandoned road behind it, part of which has collapsed into the ocean, opens from a specially equipped observation deck here.

Madeira's natural parks invariably attract the attention of tourists. One of these parks is Ribeiro Frio, which means “Cold River”. Local residents also like to relax here. The park's walking routes are laid out in picturesque places along ponds with trout swimming in them. Among the foliage of the relict laurel, you can hear the singing of rare birds. Trocas pigeon, finch, firecrest and other feathered representatives of the Madeiran fauna live here. This place is conducive to relaxation alone with nature.

In the north of Madeira there is the Rocha do Navio Nature Reserve, created to protect representatives of the deep sea, protect nature and develop the tourism potential of the island. The reserve offers its guests various types of entertainment, such as fishing, including underwater fishing, diving, and boat trips.

Right in the heart of the island, in the middle of the mountain slopes, is the village of Curral das Freiras, which means “refuge of nuns”. The village got its name thanks to the nuns of the Santa Clara monastery, who found shelter here during the attack of French corsairs on Funchal in 1566. Moreover, at that time it was possible to get to these places only along a mountain river or through a steep pass. Now the path here is through a two-kilometer tunnel dug in the mountains, and the pass is used as an observation deck at an altitude of just under a kilometer above sea level, from which a surreal view opens. Neat village houses, like swallow's nests, cling to the slopes of the mountain, and around them rise chestnut trees, the fruits of which are used by local residents to prepare aromatic sweet bread according to an old recipe.

Camacha is a unique village located in the interior of the island, east of Funchal. Bright national traditions have been carefully preserved by the residents of this village for hundreds of years. One of the crafts that has been practiced here since time immemorial is the weaving of world-famous baskets. Here you can take a trip along the famous levadas - canals that have long been used for irrigation, the first of which were built in the 16th century. This is a great way to get into the wildest parts of the island, where there are no roads. Camacha is also the place where the first football match in Portugal was played in 1875. This game was taught to local residents by British naturalist Harry Hilton, who came here to study nature. Truly an amazing case when a botanist taught an entire country to play football.

A long time ago, even before the colonization of the island, all of Madeira was covered with dense forests (the word madeira itself means forest in Portuguese). When people came here, the forests began to be mercilessly destroyed, they were simply burned out. And what the fire did not destroy was cut down and sent to the mainland as building material. And only in some places in the central part of the island, to this day you can find an amazing natural phenomenon, whose name is laurissilva - impenetrable thickets of relict laurel. Laurissilva, according to scientists, is very similar to the forests that covered the territory of Southern Europe and North Africa back in the Tertiary period. Now they remain only on a few islands in the Atlantic Ocean, including Madeira.

Almost the entire territory of the island is now covered by a network of roads along which tourists are transported on comfortable buses to any part of Madeira. Many routes introduce nature lovers to the amazing places of this “Pearl of the Atlantic”. Even the beaches on the island are unusual, most of them are truly exotic. Just look at the black beaches with volcanic sand. Some Madeira beaches are man-made, for example, Praia das Palmeiras is a complex of seawater pools created right in the coastal rocks. For vacationers on the beaches there are playgrounds, bars and cafes, changing rooms and showers. In general, all conditions have been created for a pleasant pastime.

Madeira today is a whole tourist complex where everyone will find something interesting for themselves. Some consider Madeira a resort for retirees, but in reality even the most desperate extreme sports enthusiasts can get their dose of adrenaline here. And the average tourist will definitely be satisfied with a visit to this wonderful island.

This article first appeared in 2011 in the wonderful CookEatSmile magazine. But you should not think that during this time information about Madeira has become outdated: time on the island passes lazily, measuredly, and in order for something to change, a much longer period is required.

Funchal, view from the sea

Islands are my secret passion. It's not even about the healing sea air or the beautiful sunsets. No, of course, neither do they - but still, the main charm of the islands is their isolation from the rest of the world. Everything is different here. Other people, different nature, even the wind blows differently than on the “mainland”. This has been so at all times, and it remains so to this day. Especially in the case of islands lost far out in the ocean, such as Madeira Island.

All Madeira is a constant up and down

However, how far is it? The thousand kilometers that separate Madeira from mainland Portugal can be covered in an hour and a half, but when you step off the plane, you will find yourself in the kingdom of eternal spring, cool levadas and unique relict forests. It is for the pristine nature that most tourists come here, although, of course, there is something to see here even without it - for example, New Year's fireworks, which are held in Madeira on a traditional scale, are included in the Guinness Book of Records as the most spectacular show of this kind. And even if you are not lucky enough to be in Madeira at this time of year, there is still something to see, where to go and what to try.

Bank building in the historical center

You should definitely see the capital of Madeira, the city of Funchal, or rather, its historical center - a huge cathedral, several ancient forts, and simply beautiful houses, streets, parks and embankments. Unlike many other cities that are not deprived of the attention of tourists, Funchal continues to live its own life and does not look like a preserved museum exhibit, and at the farmers market there are approximately equal numbers of locals and tourists.

There are several forts in Funchal, and most of them can be wandered around

The main entertainment that awaits you outside of Funchal is walking along the levadas, and in order to explain what this is, an excursion into the geography of the island is necessary. High mountains actually divide Madeira in two, becoming an obstacle to clouds moving from north to south. On the one hand, this makes the southern half of the island more suitable for both agriculture and life. On the other hand, it noticeably suffers from a lack of water, without which it is hardly possible to achieve any significant success in agriculture (and life).

Levada

Mountain View

An ingenious way out of the situation was the levadas built by Portuguese settlers - small ditches used to transfer water from north to south. Most of the levadas are still in operation today, and the trails along them have become convenient walking routes where you can admire the mountains, lakes and waterfalls. It’s beautiful, but it’s very tiring and whets your appetite - but fortunately, everything is in order with this in Madeira.

Being above the clouds is a very special feeling

Like any island, Madeira has no shortage of fish and seafood. Tuna, sea bream, sea wolf, and parrot fish are available in almost every restaurant that offers the gifts of the Atlantic, although oysters are not so widely represented - they are not available off the coast of Madeira; they have to be brought from Portugal itself. Among the local specialties, one cannot fail to note the espada - this fish is found near Madeira at great depths and is caught with a hook, and got its name due to its long, narrow body, which actually somewhat resembles a saber. Two more worthy representatives of the local marine fauna are the lapas clams, which are grilled and sprinkled with lemon, and the cavaco flathead lobster, which is quite scary-looking but completely harmless. Especially on a plate.

Terrible kawaku

However, one should not think that the people of Madeira are indifferent to meat: it is no coincidence that another dish of the local cuisine is espetada, something like beef kebab, the food is very simple and very tasty - if, of course, you take good meat. It is believed that the best espetada in Madeira can be tasted in the fishing village of Camara de Lobos.

Fish drying in the sun

View from one of the highest points on the southern part of the island

A story about Madeira would be incomplete without mentioning Madeira. The hot sun of Madeira helps produce this wine - barrels of wine are aged in the sun, thanks to which it acquires a dark amber color and a special caramel taste. Of course, these days there is more calculation and less romance in this process, but this does not make the wine any worse. Depending on the sugar content, Madeira can be drunk either before meals, as an aperitif, or with desserts. In this case, Madeira is often accompanied by bolo de mel cake, which is prepared with the addition of molasses.

Madeira and cupcake
On the cliff is the building of an old winery

I didn’t have time to talk about the variety of local fruits and bolo do caco cakes, the cable car and trout farms, Christopher Columbus and Cristiano Ronaldo, the beaches of Porto Santo and the streets of Machico. Madeira is a blessed island, and there are so many new impressions here that it’s time to write a separate book about them. But it’s best to go get them and discover Madeira in reality.

…And another view of the mountains
Small Funchal courtyard

Lapas grelhadas – Grilled shells

Lapas - or “limpets”, as the name of these mollusks is translated - are found in abundance around Madeira, and are sold at bargain prices in markets and shops. A sizzling skillet of tender lapas served right on the half shells is a great way to start any meal.

Ingredients

1 kg. shellfish lapas

2-3 cloves of garlic

butter

Crush or finely chop the garlic and mix with softened butter.

Rinse the lapas under running water and place in a grooved metal pan in a single layer, shells down. Place a pat of garlic butter on each clam.

Funchal - a city of contrasts

Place the pan with lapas under the hot grill for 5-10 minutes. If desired, sprinkle the finished lapas with chopped parsley, sprinkle with lemon juice and serve immediately.

And there are people living down there too
Fort, sea

Espetada Madeirense - Espetada in Madeiran

Espetada is a beef kebab that is prepared all over Portugal, but is especially loved in Madeira, where each family has its own, only correct, recipe for espetada. In its simplest form, this dish requires nothing more than meat, garlic, salt and bay leaf; other versions require a variety of seasonings and complex marinades.

They say that once upon a time the earth goddess Gaia gave the ruler of Olympus Zeus and his wife Hera three golden apples for their wedding. Hera planted seeds from them...

...on paradise islands, turning them into gardens. These gardens were guarded by the daughters of Atlas, the nymphs Hesperides with wonderful voices. But one day rumors reached Hera that the Hesperides themselves were stealing apples from her. For this, the goddess assigned them a dragon with a hundred heads speaking different languages.

But since then, the paradise islands have haunted the sailors who searched for them and died - the Hesperides lured them with their wonderful voices and gave them to be devoured by the dragon.

All this is a legend, but the paradise islands really exist - they are called the Canary Islands and are associated with the legends about the Gardens of the Hesperides and the monastery of the blessed Elysium. And this is not surprising - it is the mild, healthiest climate in the world of these places that allows Europeans to relax while being close to home. Therefore, the Canary Islands have long become a favorite place of pilgrimage for tourists.

In the center of the Canary archipelago is the largest island, Tenerife, which amazes guests with its natural contrasts. Judge for yourself: there are majestic mountain ranges, magnificent fertile valleys, tropical and subtropical forests, volcanic deserts, mountain gorges and sand dunes. There is never winter here, but there is no suffocating heat in summer either - it is always a mild spring, without any special temperature fluctuations! The average annual temperature here is unusually comfortable - 22°C, and there are practically no transitions between seasons. At the same time, the unique combination of climate would not be beneficial for vacationers if it were not for the amazing nature and relief. One of the wonderful advantages of Tenerife is its beautiful beaches, where you can enjoy the sun and sea all year round. At the same time, there are beaches for literally every taste - volcanic in origin, with black shiny sand, and extensive, with golden sand.

And the relief is given its originality by bizarre natural pools that were created by lava during volcanic eruptions in ancient centuries. Having reached the sea, the lava cooled and formed unique forms, for example, natural puddles and pools of sea water in the north of the island.

The seabed off Tenerife is diverse and unique: it delights with its rich colors and abundance of marine life. This is a real paradise for divers: sea anemones, stingrays, turtles and two-meter conger eels are found here in abundance! You can also find other types of fish typical of this area: rock perch, white gar, redfin pagella and vieja parrotfish.

And volcanic eruptions dotted the bottom with stones, decorated it with caves and sand spits and deep slopes descending to the depths of the Atlantic. 350 kilometers of coastline, where sea water maintains an average temperature of 17-25? C, opens up a breathtaking underwater world for diving enthusiasts!

But it’s not just diving and beach tanning that attract vacationers. There are plenty of opportunities for organized leisure time here, including Aqualand Costa Adeje, a water park with attractions for all ages! Loro Parque is more than just a zoo: the stars of the best show here are four fantastic killer whales. In the ethnographic park of the Pyramids of Guimar you can find all the magic of the pyramids of Tenerife, reminiscent of the pyramids of the Mayan culture. The Eagle Park features a recreated jungle with wild animals and eagle shows.

The Cesar Manrique Marine Park has salt water lakes, swimming pools and everything you need to enjoy the sun in an unusual setting. Large-scale models reveal the most characteristic landscapes and architectural structures of the Canary Islands in the Pueblochico Miniature Park.

Siam Park is Europe's largest water park and the only air-conditioned outdoor park. Magnificent, well-equipped water attractions, made in the architectural style of ancient Thailand, give an extraordinary feeling of joy, and interesting engineering ideas pleasantly surprise with new accents in the recreation industry. Under the leadership of an outstanding architect and university professor in Bangkok, famous engineers and a world-famous Italian artist, it was possible to create a unique atmosphere of the ancient kingdom of Siam, combined with the modern world of water attractions and adventures. The opening ceremony of Siam Park in Costa Adeje, one of the most attractive corners of Tenerife, took place on September 15, 2008 in the presence of Her Majesty Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. On the island you can go trekking, rock climbing, mountain biking, paragliding, surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, sailing, diving, and deep-sea fishing. Here you can watch whales during their migration and mating season!

Despite the fact that the entire island is a unique natural monument, the main attraction of Tenerife is Teide National Park. Here, the volcano of the same name, the highest point in Spain, rises above the volcanic landscape of Las Cañadas. At its foot lies an amazing landscape reminiscent of the moon! It consists of weathered rocks, frozen lava flows, destroyed ancient craters - you will never believe that this is possible on our planet! It is no coincidence that the films “One Million Years BC” and “Star Wars” were filmed here. And all this - Las Cañadas del Teide National Park - the most visited natural park in the country.

It is to this volcano that the island owes its name - Tenerife means “snow mountain” in the language of the Guanches, the ancient inhabitants of the Canary Islands, who inhabited the island hundreds of years ago. Once upon a time, the Teide volcano was much higher, about 5000 meters high, but in 1706 the top of the volcano collapsed due to a strong eruption and it became lower - now the height of Teide is 3718 m. It is visible from approaching ships almost 200 kilometers away and has long been served as a guide for sailors - it was admired by Columbus and Cook, Bellingshausen and Humboldt!

And Charles Darwin even wrote in his diary: “On the sixth of January we reached Tenerife... The next morning we saw the sun, emerging from behind the bizarre rocks of the island of Gran Canaria, suddenly illuminate the Tenerife peak, while the lower parts of the island were still hidden behind the curly clouds. It was the first of those delightful days that I will never forget."

No matter from which side you approach the volcano, the road will pass through the amazing landscapes of the natural park, reminiscent of the Moon, Mars, or our planet from the time of dinosaurs.

Tenerife is also called “the island with two faces”. Tourists can choose between two different holiday options, as the island's mountain range divides it into two climatic zones: the humid north, covered with varied vegetation, and the arid south. If in the north the air temperature is always several degrees lower, the ocean is more turbulent, and cloudiness and precipitation are unpredictable, then the south, “fenced” by mountain peaks, is an ideal place for a beach holiday throughout the year.

The fashion of going to the northern part of Tenerife for the winter arose in the 19th century. European doctors recommended their patients to spend time at the resort, because the island’s climate is ideal for treating all diseases associated with age and blood circulation.

The south of Tenerife became a popular holiday destination much later, in the 80s of the last century. Due to the high mountains that act as a barrier to the clouds, the southern coast remains cloudless even when clouds gather over the northern part of the island. Despite the fact that only a few tens of kilometers separate the south from the north, the difference in climate is colossal - as if you are in completely different countries! Thanks to this unique climate feature, yachting is very popular here.

Which part of this wonderful island you choose is up to you. And maybe somewhere in the shady thicket you will be lucky enough to see one of the Hesperides nymphs flash by?..

Puerto de la Cruz. It was the first city in Tenerife where tourism was born. Despite the countless number of hotels and restaurants, it has managed to retain its flavor and atmosphere of a truly Canarian city.

One of the main attractions of Puerto is Lago Martianez. Created by the famous Canarian artist César Manrique, this complex of seawater pools is an ideal place for swimming and sunbathing.

Look: the church of Nuestra Señora de la Peña, the chapel of San Telmo, the castle of San Felipe, the Customs House, the old promenade where small fishing boats still moor.

La Orotava. This town is located in a fertile valley bearing the same name. The ancient quarter of La Orotava, filled with family mansions of traditional Canarian architecture, has been declared a monument of historical and artistic importance.

Look: the churches of Concepcion and San Juan, both from the 18th century, as well as the beautiful houses of Casa de Monteverde and Casa do Los Balcones.

Icod de los Vinos. Its old quarter has a special charm reminiscent of its colonial past. Icod gained great fame as a center for the production of Malvasia wine, which in ancient times was considered the best in the world.

Look: the 16th-century Church of San Marcos, the Church of San Agustin, the Church of Las Angustias and the Monastery of San Francisco.

Garachico. It is a colorful semi-circular city with stone and historic buildings, located at the tip of a solidified lava flow.

Look: Castle of San Miguel, built in the 16th century next to the sea to repel pirate attacks; Church of Santa Ana, Palace of the Counts of La Gomera, monasteries of San Francisco and Santo Domingo.

La Laguna. La Laguna is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is the oldest city on the island. Tenerife and its first capital.

Look: Casa de Lercaco (Museum of History), Casa del Corregidor (City Hall), Salazar and Nava palaces.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife. This is the capital of Tenerife and a beautiful city with gardens, alleys, parks for walking and boutiques of the world's most famous brands. Greenery is an integral part of it, as are the street sculptures scattered throughout the city.

All along the southern and western coasts, from where you can always see the exotic neighboring island of La Gomera, new resort centers have sprung up such as Costa del Silencio, Los Cristianos, Americas Beach, Los Gigantes and other small towns.

One of the most modern areas of the southern part of the island is Costa Adeje, where you can find a large number of exclusive hotels. There are impeccable beaches with all amenities, such as El Duque, Fanabe or Troya.

The calm embankment, as well as the squares and streets of the city, where there are many cafes, bars and high-quality restaurants, deserve special attention.

Look: Ada Gorge, the Church of Santa Ursula, the churches of the monastery of Guadalupe and San Pablo, Casa Fuerte (XVI century).

Tenerife is rightly called one of the most beautiful and interesting places not only in Spain, but also in the world. And there is not the slightest doubt about this from the first minutes of traveling around the island. Surprisingly, on such a small island there are 7 climatic zones, from tropical forests with relict trees to lunar landscapes!!! And plus a volcano! Tenerife is even considered the remains of the sunken Atlantis. This is not only exotic, it is also a mystical place. You look, you see, you admire and you don’t understand...

To get an idea of ​​the island, we decided to conduct reconnaissance in force and ride around its perimeter. We hoped that we would drive along the coast and be able to see all the bays, beaches, embankments and at the same time we would be able to swim wherever we liked - we wanted to combine the excursion program with a beach holiday. And we succeeded!

We slept, had breakfast, got ready, left Las Americas and took the high-speed TF-1 towards Adeje. From Las Americas, the TF-1 road towards the town of Guia de Isora smoothly turns into TF-62, and then into TF-82.

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In the Adeje area we turned onto TF-47 in the direction of Puerto de Santiago (southwest coast of Tenerife). Puerto de Santiago used to be a fishing port, but now, together with Arena and Los Gigantes, it is a cozy resort area and it is not clear where one village ends and another begins.

Our stopover was the beach PlayadelaArena. We were seduced by photographs of this cozy beach, which are often found on postcards and guidebooks. The fine dark sand contrasts effectively with the blue water and white foam.

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Let me explain right away, there are three types of beaches in Tenerife: with light sand, pebble and black volcanic sand. Pebble beaches are mostly wild beaches that are not in demand among tourists (the majority of them are in the east of the island). Beaches with light sand are mostly of artificial origin, equipped specifically for tourists (there were many of these in our Las Americas). The sand for them was brought from nearby Africa. In general, nothing special.

And finally, black sand beaches! Local landmark. This sand is said to have healing properties. Radiculitis, arthritis, osteochondrosis, back sprains, and fractures are treated with natural heat and minerals of black volcanic sand. I don’t know how true this is, but we certainly rolled around hard in the sand.

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PlayadelaArena — The most beautiful natural beach with black volcanic sand in the southern part of the island. Surrounded by small but numerous hotel and apartment buildings, the beach is located in a rocky bay that protects it from wind and strong waves. It is no coincidence that Playa la Arena is protected by UNESCO as a heritage of humanity.

In Tenerife, all beaches are public and free. The concept of “hotel beach” does not exist here. Sun loungers and umbrellas are available for an additional fee. At all municipal beaches, there are always lifeguards on duty and there is honey. office, shower. I was amazed by the attitude towards people with disabilities. At the entrance to the beach, I saw a stand with special crutches on suction cups so as not to fall under the sand, and wheelchairs for swimming. For me, a person from Russia, this was amazing. Having subsequently visited Germany, Italy, Austria, you understand that there is actually nothing to be surprised at, this is how it should be. But, unfortunately, not with us.

Beaches throughout the island are necessarily surrounded by breakwaters, so the water near the shore is calm and children can swim. Leaving your car near the beach is not a problem. There is usually a special parking lot nearby, which we took advantage of.

Above PlayadelaArena there is a promenade running along the beach, on which we saw numerous restaurants and shops. But by the time we got there and lay on the beach, it was time for lunch and, of course, siesta!!! Which had a very unpleasant effect on us: all the cafes and shops were closed. Siesta lasts from 13.00-17.00.

Next we headed to the neighboring Los Gigantes, whose name speaks for itself. Here, hot lava once met the sea, rising in ridges to a height of three hundred meters. Yes, it froze like black rocks, around which lies black sand. The height of the rocks reaches 600 m. This is a miraculous splendor! The local Guanche aborigines believed that in this very place was the edge of the world.

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Next the path lay to Maska! From Los Gigantes we left at TF-82, and after Santiago del Teide we left at the corresponding sign for TF-436. This section of the road (TF-436) in Tenerife is truly serpentine! The road is narrow and winding, winding between the mountains.

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Although this road is at a high altitude, it is studded with villages and detached houses. The view is wonderful! Masca- This small mountain village is located on a mountain road in the Teno Mountains, at an altitude of 600 to 800 m. Along this road, high mountains surround the tiny villages and there is a small high-altitude peak near the center of the village. The combination of palm trees and cypresses in this area is striking. In ancient times, the village was pirated, and was never attacked by enemies due to its difficult approach. The troublemakers of the pirate village were seen in advance and the robbers had enough time to go down to the ocean and sail away on ships. They say that even the storm of the seas, Barbarossa (Red Beard), was seen in these waters. The white houses of Maska, surrounded by flowers, were completely isolated from the outside world for a long time; until the 1960s, it could only be reached along narrow rocky paths.

And in the 1960s, the village gained automobile access. There is a church built decades ago and several observation platforms that offer beautiful views of the ocean and where you can take great photos.

The Atlantic Ocean is visible several kilometers away. I can say one thing: you should definitely visit Maska, without being afraid of roads and passes. This place is worth it.

From Masca we moved further towards the town of Buenavista. On the way around the town LasPortelas we saw a bizarre hill that looked like a cut pie. The hill is “cut” by landslides. Personally, I was not impressed by this view, but I read on all the forums that tourists like it. Buenovista is the westernmost village on the island. Nothing remarkable. From there towards Garachico take TF-42. Around the village of Los Silos, banana plantations are visible for many kilometers.

Smoothly moving to the north of the island, we felt the climate change ourselves.

Approaching the ocean, Cape Teno appeared before our eyes.

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6 km from Los Silos we descended through another pass into a small town Garachico) on the northern coast, founded at the dawn of the colonization of the island by the Spaniards.

Until the beginning of the 18th century it remained the most important port of Tenerife. Ships with full holds of wine departed from the port of Garachico for Europe. And from there, galleons of the Spanish fleet arrived at the port with goods from distant countries. In the spring of 1706, the eruption of Montaña Negra volcano destroyed the port and most of the city, creating a peninsula of lava. After the eruption, only the fortress of San Miguel (1575) and the Church of St. Anna survived. During the 18th century. on the site of old Garachico, on a semicircle of solidified lava in the sea, a new city was built.

As a result, the coastline consists mainly of volcanic ruins.

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The next point of our independent program was Icod de los Vinos (Icod de los Vinos). From its founding (1496) it was called Icod, and only in the middle of the 16th century, due to the increase in the production of excellent world-famous wine, the “nickname” was assigned to it - de los Vinos. The place is cozy, located in a picturesque valley, we drove along the ten-kilometer coastline. One of the oldest cities in Tenerife is famous for the fact that it is here that the amazing Dragon tree or Dracaena draco grows. His image is even on the city coat of arms. This is great dragon tree about 25 m high, 10 meters in girth.

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There are different versions about the age of the dragon tree (according to one guide, the tree is 912 years old, but the reality is that the dragon tree has no growth rings and the exact age cannot be determined, let alone yearly). in fact, it is a bush. In 1501, when the city was founded, the dragon tree was already here - that's a fact. It is also known that this tree grows very slowly, so let’s come to terms with this knowledge that the tree is very old and has seen the Guanches, conquistadors, the Inquisition, etc., and now it has greeted us calmly and with dignity. There are two explanations for the name of this tree - firstly, its unusual appearance, and secondly, its red sap. Local residents considered the tree sacred, and its unusual juice - “dragon's blood” - medicinal. When combined with oxygen, it acquires an unusual blood-red color. An old legend says that dragon trees grew from the spilled blood of dragons where they were killed. In Europe, the dragon tree has been known since ancient times - its “blood” was used in the manufacture of seal wax, paints and ointments. They say that the dragon tree was once worth its weight in gold for its ability to heal bleeding, various wounds and dysentery. The Guanches used dragon tree sap to embalm the dead. Incredible but true: The dragon tree in Icod de los Vinos is the oldest plant on the planet. Near the observation deck from which the dragon tree is usually photographed, on the Plaza de Lorenzo Cáceres there is the Church of St. Mark (San Marcos). It was built in the first half of the 16th century, and the stones for the construction of arches and columns were brought from the island of La Gomera. The church, which is representative of the true Canarian style, houses the largest silver cross in the world.

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Having entered the city, we followed the signs for Drago Milenariu. These signs led us to a paid parking lot near the square.

It costs a few euros to visit the dragon tree park, but even there it is impossible to get very close to the tree. We decided to limit ourselves to a free observation deck. Millennial dragon tree is a Monument of National Importance since 1917 and, together with the Teide volcano, is a symbol of the Canary Archipelago.

A little higher up is the Plaza de La Pila, surrounded by houses from the time of the conquistadors and in the center of which there is a peculiar fountain topped with a plant. Very nearby there is a tree with seven branches supported by metal ropes, against which tourists willingly take pictures. Down from the Church of San Marcos and the observation deck there is a tropical butterfly garden - Mariposario del Drago. Approximately 2,000 butterflies flutter freely in this tropical-climate structure. But by the time we got there, the butterfly museum was already closed and we couldn’t get inside.