The most dangerous mountains in the world. The most dangerous mountain in the world The most inaccessible mountain in the world

When attempts are made to conquer the highest and most dangerous peaks, the process resembles “hussar roulette.” First of all, we are talking about climbing eight-thousander mountains. It is well known that at an altitude of 5000 m above sea level in the body of a person who has not undergone special training, a lack of oxygen appears, his adaptation and overall performance decrease.

At an altitude of more than 8000 meters, the amount of oxygen decreases significantly and is only 30% of the norm required for the human body; such conditions are very dangerous for health.

So, the most dangerous mountains are where the so-called physiological zone of the atmosphere ends.

Tibet, Western Nepal

Mountain (Tibet, Western Nepal) - 8091 meters above sea level. The Annapurna mountain range is part of the Main Himalayan Range. Annapurna Peak is considered the most difficult summit to climb. This is confirmed by the names of the mountain given by local residents: Durga - “Unapproachable”, Kali - “Black”, “Terrible”. The fatality rate when trying to conquer it reaches 41%.

Annapurna

Since the first ascent, 130 more people have attempted to reach the summit. In terms of the danger that awaits climbers, Annapurna has no equal in the world. One of the biggest tragedies happened here in 2014, when 39 climbers were caught in snow storms and a series of avalanches. Everyone died.

Chogori K2

The mountain peak in the Karakoram, Chogori K2 - 8611 meters above the sea surface, occupies the second position among the highest points in the world. It rises up on the border of Pakistan and China. Chogori is considered dangerous for a person to climb from a technical point of view. Even the easiest of its routes involve overcoming steep rocks and glaciers in the form of overhanging blocks and pillars. It is technical difficulties that explain the 25% mortality rate of extreme sports enthusiasts trying to conquer K2.

Most climbers prefer to climb the route from Pakistan. But here, too, danger awaits them - the narrowest place of the path, where avalanches can catch them at any moment. It is considered impossible to conquer K2 in winter.

Nanga Parbat

Mount Chogori, in terms of the technical complexity of the routes, is slightly inferior to Mount Nanga Parbat (“Bare Mountain”), reaching 8126 m. The peak is located in the northwestern part of the Himalayan Mountains. Getting to the top is only possible by walking along a very narrow ridge - the southern side (4600 meters high) is recognized as the largest mountain slope in the world.

Nanga Parbat was first climbed in 1953 by Hermann Buhl. The rock climber undertook a 40-hour climb without the aid of an ice ax or oxygen. Since then, 263 people have climbed it, and 62 climbers have died over the entire period. The mortality rate is 21%. The mountains received the well-deserved name “Killer Mountains” and “Man Absorbers”. But, despite this, the mountain attracts extreme sports enthusiasts, especially the non-criminal ice wall of the southern slope, and daredevils challenge it.

Kanchenjunga

In India there is another dangerous mountain to climb - Kanchenjunga (“Mountain of Five Treasures”). This is the highest point of the Himalayas - 8586 meters above the sea surface and the third highest in the world.

For half a century, Kanchenjunga remained unconquered, and only in 1955 climbers managed to reach its peak. There are no established routes or trails on the mountain. Frequent inclement weather and regular avalanches add to the difficulties. During all this time, only 187 athletes managed to reach its peak. It is worth noting that the number of deaths is only increasing over time, and today it is 22%.

Mont Blanc

Mount Mont Blanc (“White Mountain”) is the highest mountain in Western Europe - 4810 meters. Nearby, on the mountain range of the same name, there are the popular ski resorts of Chamonix and Courmayeur.

The technical characteristics of the climb to Mont Blanc are not particularly difficult, but accidents occur every year. Unfavorable weather conditions and regular avalanches have an impact. For the first time, the British, William Wyndham and Richard Pocock, climbed the mountain next to Mont Blanc in 1741. And already in August 1786, Michel Paccard and Jacques Balmat conquered Mont Blanc.

Matterhorn

The Matterhorn (4478 meters) is known for its uniqueness. Its shape is very similar to a horn, as if growing out of a valley. It is located in a picturesque alpine area, in the border zone between Italy and Switzerland. Despite its relatively low altitude, this peak has the highest mortality rate in the Alps. Difficulty is defined as: avalanches, rockfalls, technical characteristics and load on the routes.

In Switzerland there is another dangerous mountain - the Eiger ("Man-Eater"), with a height of only 3,962 meters. The most dangerous thing is the so-called “death wall”, 2000 meters long, from which blocks of melted ice break off and slide down. For safety reasons, climbers storm the peak during the hungriest months of the year. The Eiger was first conquered in 1938. During this time, 64 athletes died on its slopes.

Broad Peak is located in Pakistan; climbers climb its two highest peaks - 8028 and 8051 m above sea level. The laurels of the pioneer of ascents to the Peak belong to the legendary Hermann Buhl. He first conquered the peak himself, and in 1957 he undertook the ascent, leading a team of Austrian climbers. The fatality rate for attempting to climb Broad Peak is 5%.

Gasherbrum

Pakistan's Mount Gasherbrum I ("Beautiful Mountain"), 8,068 meters high, has a 9% climbing fatality rate. It was first climbed in 1958 by climbers from America. They undertook a successful expedition of eight people, led by the most famous and experienced climbers of the time, Pete Schonning and Andy Kaufman. The climb to the top of Gasherbrum is recognized by experts as not difficult, but 8% of those who want to climb to the top die on its slopes.

Nepal gave the world Makalau (“Black Giant”). Its height is 8481 meters above the surface of the sea. It resembles a very steep four-sided pyramid. Desperate daredevils (9%) die here every year while descending from the mountain. There are regular shifts of ice blocks and a high probability of storm winds (up to 120 km per hour); in winter the air temperature reaches minus 40 degrees.

In Nepal there is also the “Mountain of the Spirit” - Manaslu (8156 meters). It was first conquered by Japanese climbers in 1956. The mortality rate among climbers is 10%, due to the consequences of avalanches, landslides, and monsoon winds. One of the most famous and terrible incidents: the camp, set up at an altitude of 6500 meters, was literally erased from the cliff. The entire expedition, consisting of 15 people, perished.

Dhaulagiri

The Nepalese man-eating mountain is Dhaulagiri I (“White Mountain”), the height reaches 8167 m. The mortality rate during ascents is 16%, the main reason is frequent and strong avalanches. Its southern side is considered completely inaccessible for climbing. But these characteristics excite desperate climbers even more.

Everest

Climbing Everest is very popular among experienced climbers. The standard climbing route does not have complex technical characteristics, but climbers are plagued by strong winds, changeable weather conditions, and lack of oxygen.

Every year Everest rises above the surface 3-6 centimeters upward and moves 7 centimeters to the northeast. Every year, up to 30 people die trying to conquer Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe (5642 m). Elbrus is an extinct volcano located in the western Caucasus. The summit is covered with an ice blanket consisting of 22 glaciers.

It is also worth noting the highest and most dangerous mountain points of the continents:

In the Andes, South America - the peak of Aconcagua, 6959 m high. Although from the point of view of mountaineering it is considered not difficult.

In North America - Mount McKinley, height 6135 m. Extreme sports enthusiasts prefer climbing from May to July.

In Africa, on the territory of Tanzania, there is the famous Kilimanjaro 5895 m. Every year, the peak “considers” attempts to climb up to 40,000 amateur climbers.

The highest peak in Antarctica is Vinson Peak, 4892 m high. It is located 1200 kilometers from the South Pole of the Earth.

Mount Puncak Jaya 4884 m - the highest point in Australia and Oceania is located in Indonesia. It was first climbed in 1962 by climbers from Austria, led by Heinrich Garrer. The mountain has a high technical rating, which attracts extreme sports enthusiasts.

A n And at an altitude of more than 8000 meters, the amount of oxygen decreases significantly and is only 30% of the norm required for the human body; such conditions are very dangerous for health.

So, below are the most dangerous mountains where the so-called physiological zone of the atmosphere ends.

Annapurna
Tibet, Western Nepal. 8091 meters above sea level. The Annapurna mountain range is part of the Main Himalayan Range. Annapurna Peak is considered the most difficult summit to climb. This is confirmed by the names of the mountain given by local residents: Durga - “Unapproachable”, Kali - “Black”, “Terrible”. The fatality rate when trying to conquer it reaches 41%.

Annapurna gained fame as the first eight-thousander in history to be conquered by man. It was first overcome by the Frenchmen Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. They spent about 14 days descending from the mountain; severe frostbite resulted in the loss of all their toes, and Maurice also had frostbite on his hands. It is also considered to be the most outstanding achievement in the history of world mountaineering.
Since the first ascent, 130 more people have attempted to reach the summit. In terms of the danger that awaits climbers, Annapurna has no equal in the world. One of the biggest tragedies happened here in 2014, when 39 climbers were caught in snow storms and a series of avalanches. Everyone died.

Chogori K2

Nanga Parbat

Kanchenjunga

Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc (“White Mountain”) is the highest mountain in Western Europe - 4810 meters. Nearby, on the mountain range of the same name, there are the popular ski resorts of Chamonix and Courmayeur.

Matterhorn

Eiger

Broad Peak

Gasherbrum

Macalau

Manaslu

Dhaulagiri

Everest

Slightly less dangerous is climbing the highest and most famous mountain point in the world - Everest or Chomolungma (“Mother of the Universe”, “Divine Mother of Snows”), rises to 8848 m. It is located on the border area between Nepal and China. Everest is also a whole mountain range, which includes the peak of Lhotse - 8516 m, Nuptse - 7861 m and Changtse - 7543 m.
Climbing Everest is very popular among experienced climbers. The standard climbing route does not have complex technical characteristics, but climbers are plagued by strong winds, changeable weather conditions, and lack of oxygen.
Original taken from rama909 in The most difficult and dangerous mountains to climb.

The mountains have long attracted brave people with their inaccessibility, as if they were challenging them, and they never forgot to take their share - not all conquerors of the peaks were able to return home. Many remained forever captives of the silent giants - a good warning for those who follow in their footsteps. Every year, dozens of people die in the mountains as a result of avalanches, landslides, blowing winds and severe snowstorms. Perhaps this is nature’s way of expressing its reluctance for people to disturb its stone giants. But this does not mean that there are fewer people striving to reach the next peak. This article lists the most dangerous mountains to climb, with the percentage of fatalities when conquered in parentheses.

1. Annapurna (34%) , hotels nearby

Height 8091 m.
Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The American climber Ed Viesturs described the character of this peak very colorfully, calling it completely covered with ice, a permanent danger, a single piece of ice with ice growths. Annapurna is probably the most dangerous peak in the world. More than a third of the climbers who tried to conquer it find eternal peace on its slopes.
Annapurna became the first eight-thousand-meter mountain to be conquered by man. This was done in 1950 by French climbers Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog. The descent from its summit took them 14 days, and as a result of frostbite, both lost their toes, and Herzog also suffered frostbite on his hands. This ascent is considered by climbers to be the most outstanding in history. After them, another 130 people had the courage to climb Annapurna.
It has no equal in the number of dangers that await climbers. In 2014, a terrible tragedy occurred here - 39 climbers were first caught in a snowstorm, and then in a series of avalanches; no one survived.

The grandeur and extraordinary beauty of the mountains leaves few people indifferent. Sometimes snow-capped ridges inspire fear, sometimes they fascinate, inspire, beckon...

2. Chogori (K2) (29%) , hotels nearby

Height 8614 m.
Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan, China).

The highest peak of the Karakoram and the second in the world, Chogori or K2 is slightly second only to Everest. This peak rises on the China-Pakistan border. In terms of the danger for climbing, it was far ahead of Chomolungma, second only to Annapurna. Even the simplest climbing routes along it contain sheer cliffs and overhanging pillars and blocks of glaciers. Due to the technical difficulties of climbing, every fourth climber who tries to conquer Chogori dies.
Most often, climbers storm the peak from the Pakistani side, although there is also a bottleneck where an avalanche can occur at any moment. In winter, conquering K2 is considered impossible. In 2007, Russian climbers were able to climb K2 along the most difficult route - along the western slope, which until now was considered impregnable.

3. Nanga Parbat (21%) , hotels nearby

Height 8126 m.
Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan).

Until climbers chose Everest for climbing, it was Nanga Parbat that was the deadliest peak, for which it was even nicknamed the killer mountain. It is located in the northwestern Himalayas. You can reach its top only along a very narrow ridge, and the southern side, with a height of 4600 m, is the highest slope in the world. Nanga Parbat was first conquered by Hermann Buhl in 1953. He walked for 40 hours without an oxygen mask or an ice ax. Since then, 263 people have been to this peak, and 62 have not returned. But the extreme difficulty of the climb only attracts extreme sports enthusiasts, especially many who want to compete with the inaccessible southern slope.

4. Dhaulagiri I (16%) , hotels nearby

Height 8167 m.
Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

This is the seventh highest peak in the world. Even experienced climbers often get lost on it. The southern slope of Dhaulagiri I still remains inaccessible - among climbers, climbing it is equated to suicide. The local avalanches are the most dangerous for climbers. This peak was the penultimate eight-thousander to be conquered by people. The first to climb it was a group of Swiss and Austrian climbers with two Sherpas. Later, a group of American climbers who had no experience in Himalayan ascents attempted to storm the peak from an unexplored side. A powerful avalanche took away 6 climbers and two Sherpas. This was the worst tragedy in the mountains of Nepal at that time.

5. Kanchenjunga (15%) , hotels nearby

Height 8586 m.
Located in the Himalayas (India, Nepal).

The name Kanchenjunga translates as “mountain of five treasures”. This is the third highest peak in the world. Climbers managed to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga for the first time after half a century of unsuccessful attempts in 1955. There are no established routes or trails. Inclement weather and frequent avalanches make the ascent even more difficult. So far, only 187 people can boast of being at the top of Kanchenjunga. Almost every new ascent claims the lives of climbers.

6. Manaslu (Kutang) (10%) , hotels nearby

Height 8156 m.
Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The multi-headed Mount Kutang (“Mountain of Spirits”) occupies the eighth position in the list of eight-thousanders in the world. Climbers preparing to conquer its main peak must be prepared not only for the usual dangers that await them - avalanches, but also for unexpected monsoons and mudflows. Manaslu was first conquered by Japanese climbers in 1956. This ascent remained the only successful one for a long time, until in 1971 another group of Japanese climbers reached the summit.
The threat of avalanches and technical difficulties during ascent are somewhat less noticeable than during descent. One of the worst tragedies in the history of mountaineering occurred here, when five Korean climbers and 10 local Sherpas died on the route from a huge avalanche, which demolished the intermediate camp located at around 6500 m.

On our planet, only 14 mountain peaks have a height of more than 8000 meters. Most of the peaks are located in the Himalayas and are known to everyone under the name "...

7. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (9%) , hotels nearby

Height 8080 m.
Located in Karakoram (Pakistan).

The name Gasherbrum means “beautiful mountain”. The fact that significantly fewer people die on this “beautiful mountain” than on the peaks listed above is explained by the fact that only the most desperate and experienced climbers think about conquering it. It was called “Hidden” because when approaching it along the main route, the mountain is not visible for a long time due to powerful spurs.
This peak was first conquered by a group of 8 Americans in 1958. The first to reach the summit, Piet Schoening and Andy Kaufman, communicated their success to their comrades below using mirrors. The legendary Reinhold Messner also climbed Gasherbrum I, and did it in alpine style - without an intermediate camp, oxygen mask or additional equipment. He was accompanied by Hans Kammerlander - this couple crossed two eight-thousandth peaks at once during one trip. That is, they were able to conquer Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II in just eight days.

8. Makalu (9%) , hotels nearby

Height 8485 m.

The very long path to the fifth peak of the world, Makalu (“black giant”), contains danger, although this is only a prelude to the difficult ascent to the peak itself. This is one of the most difficult peaks to climb. Here, as well as when climbing K2, the most dangerous part is the descent, during which most of the deaths occur. In particular, the shape of the mountain leads to such fatality - a tetrahedral pyramid with very steep slopes, on which storms and avalanches often occur. Brave climbers Denis Urubko and Simon Moreau were able to climb this already deadly peak in winter. They had to endure wind gusts of up to 120 km/h and forty-degree frosts - such conditions can kill on their own without any ascent.

There are a wide variety of dangerous places on our planet, which have recently begun to attract a special category of extreme tourists looking for...

9. Chomolungma (Everest) (6.74%) , hotels nearby

Height 8848 m.
Located in the Himalayas (Nepal, China).

And here is the highest peak of our planet. This fact, as well as the relative ease of conquering, made this peak the most attractive for climbers among climbers from all over the world. At some point, thanks to the efforts of technical staff and Sherpas, the route to climbing Everest became as comfortable as possible, which gave rise to an entire industry around conquering the “roof of the world.” Even inexperienced climbers were allowed to climb. Since Hillary first conquered Everest, over 7,000 people have reached the top of the “roof of the world.” Of these, about 250 remained on its snow-covered slopes, reminding with their presence the next daredevils climbing up that Chomolungma does not like jokes. Not long ago, a strong earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 occurred in Nepal, which cooled down some hotheads. Then many avalanches descended from Everest, taking with them dozens of Sherpas and climbers.
Many climbers are familiar with the local landmark - “green boots”. This is the corpse of the Indian rock climber Tsewang Paljor, who died once during a climb and turned into a frozen landmark, which eloquently reminds all future climbers that the beauty of climbing must be paid dearly.

10. Mont Blanc , hotels nearby

Height 4810 m.
Located in the Alps (France, Italy).

Although Mont Blanc (“white mountain”) is almost half the height of the Himalayan eight-thousanders, it is the highest peak in Western Europe, inferior to the highest peaks of the Caucasus. It is part of a crystalline mountain range on which the popular ski resorts of Courmayeur and Chamonix are located. From a technical point of view, the climb to Mont Blanc is not too difficult, but deaths occur here almost every year, as frequent avalanches and bad weather conditions take their toll. In 1741, the Englishmen Richard Pocock and William Wyndham first climbed the neighboring peak of Montenvieux, and Mont Blanc itself was conquered in 1786 by the French Jacques Balmet and Michel Paccard.

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In the list below I have selected the most beautiful and interesting peaks for climbing. When compiling the list, I tried to cover the most interesting areas of our planet, but for each area I chose fairly accessible, technically uncomplicated mountain peaks that are accessible to most mountain tourists who are familiar with the basic skills of moving in the mountains. The peaks are grouped by altitude, starting with mountains just over 2000 meters high and ending at 8000+.

Peaks 2000+

Petros (2020 m)

In the Carpathians, everyone knows the highest peak of Ukraine - Hoverla, but right opposite there is a less visited, but equally interesting peak of the Carpathians.

Best time: June-September
Days for trekking/climbing: 1-3
Difficulty: trekking

Triglav (2864 m)

The highest peak and national symbol of Slovenia. Located in the Julian Alps.

Days to climb: 1-2
Difficulty of the simplest route: walking, scrambling (~1B)

Zugspitze (2962 m)

The highest point in Germany. Can be combined with a very beautiful three or four day hike in the surrounding area.

A story about climbing the Zugspitze in July 2016.

Peaks 3000+

Sugar Pseashkho (3189 m)

A beautiful and most accessible trekking three-thousand-meter peak in the Western Caucasus in the vicinity of Krasnaya Polyana.
Days for trekking/climbing: 2-3
Difficulty: trekking

A story about climbing Sugar Pseashkho in June 2012.

Agepsta (3256 m)

The most spectacular peak over 3000 meters high is in Krasnaya Polyana. Dream! The peak is located directly on the borders of Russia and Abkhazia and a border pass is required to climb from Krasnaya Polyana. It’s easier to climb from Abkhazia.
Days for trekking/climbing: 3-4

Difficulty: 1A

Best time: June - September

A story about climbing Agepsta in July 2017.

Munku-Sardyk (3491 m)

The highest peak of the Sayan Mountains, on the very border with Mongolia.

Best time: July-August

Semenov-Bashi (3602 m)

An easy (1B grade), but already quite high trekking peak in the vicinity of the Alibek alpine camp on Dombay

Teide Volcano (3718 m)

Volcano on the island of Tenerife (Canary Islands). The highest peak in Spain.

Best time: April-May, September-October
Duration: 1+ days
Difficulty: n/a

Mount Cook (3754 m)

New Zealand's highest peak, south island.

Fuji (3776 m)

Volcano, the highest peak in Japan. A must-see during your trip to the land of the rising sun!

Grossglockner (3798 m)

The highest peak in Austria.

Once I already managed to walk at its foot, but not at the top yet :)

Ak-Oyuk (3860 m)

A beautiful peak in the Katunsky ridge of the Altai Mountains not far from the majestic Belukha. The beginning of the route is directly from Lake Akkem.

The easiest route: 2A-2B

Belalakaya (3861 m)

Our answer to the Swiss Matterhorn and the calling card of Dombay. Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful (if not the most beautiful) peaks of the Caucasus. Unfortunately, even the simplest route has category 3A, i.e. requires mastery of all mountaineering skills.

Peaks 4000+

Aktru (4075 m)

The peak in Altai is 4075 meters high and there is a mountain camp of the same name, which operates even in our time.

Best time: July-August
Difficulty: 1B

Breithorn (4167 m)

One of the easiest four thousand meters in the Alps. The route starts from the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn" (Little Matterhorn) in the Zermatt Valley (Switzerland) at an altitude of 3884 m. The steepest section on the route is 35 degrees.

Difficulty: F+ on the alpine scale - a simple, easy route. Climbing on rocks or gentle snow, moving on simple glaciers. As a rule, movement without a rope except for movement on glaciers.

Best time: all year round. Great mountain for ski touring!

A beautiful and accessible peak with an ice cap in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in close proximity to Almaty is an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the Northern Tien Shan and for the first time climb peaks over 4000 meters high.

Best time: July-August
Days to climb: 1
Difficulty: 1B

Description of the route and my photo story about the hike along the Trans-Ili Alatau in July 2008.

Rainier (4392 m)

Perhaps, after the Matterhorn, this is the most photographed mountain in the world. We bet your mother or grandmother has a calendar with her image? In general, the mountain is famous not only for its postcard views, but also for its extremely changeable weather!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 3A

Matterhorn (4478 m)

An icon of the Swiss Alps, and perhaps the Alps in general!

Belukha (4506 m)

The highest peak of Altai and all of Siberia!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 3A

Mont Blanc (4807 m)

The highest peak of the Alps and without a doubt an iconic, historical peak.

Best time: July-August
Climbing days: 5-7
Difficulty: 2A

My story about the ascent in the summer of 2011.

Peaks 5000+

Kazbek (5047 m)

Over the past few years, Georgia, and Kazbek in particular, have been experiencing a real boom in popularity!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 2B

Ararat (5137 m)

Perhaps Ararat is the simplest accessible mountain with a height of more than 5000 meters. If you want to test yourself “at altitude,” then without a doubt Ararat and Elbrus (more on that below) are the two best options. Despite the fact that Ararat is a symbol of Armenia, geographically the peak is located in Turkey.

Best time:
Duration: 5+ days
Difficulty: 1B

Chimtarga (5489 m)

The highest peak of the Fan Mountains in Tajikistan. One of the popular areas for mountain tourism and climbing. The alpine camp is active and there are guides.

Best time: June-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 2B

Kala Pathar (5550 m)

The highest peak accessible for climbing during the Everest Base Camp trek. Apart from the height, there are no technical difficulties. A down jacket and trekking boots are all the equipment you need to admire the coolest view of Everest, as in the photo on the left!

Best time: April-May, October-November
Days for trekking/climbing: 15
Difficulty: trekking

My story about trekking to Everest in the fall of 2008.

Elbrus (5642 m)

The highest peak of the Caucasus, Russia and all of Europe. The classic route “Elbrus from the South” is absolutely devoid of any technical difficulties. The main danger and cause of accidents is losing the route due to a sudden deterioration in weather.

Recently, climbing Elbrus from the north has been gaining popularity.

In July-August 2012, my friend and I traversed Elbrus, ascending from the north, spending the night on the saddle and descending along the southern slope.

Best time: July-August
Duration: 7-10 days,
Difficulty: 2A

Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)

The second highest, but most active volcano in Ecuador. There is a beautiful huge crater at the top!

Best time: December-January
Duration: 7+ days,
Difficulty: 2B

Kilimanjaro (5898 m)

A volcano in Tanzania known to any child. Mega is popular among trekkers due to its exotic nature and the absolute absence of technical difficulties on the route!

Best time: January-February or September
Duration: 6+ days
Difficulty: n/a

Peaks 6000+

McKinley (6194 m)

If you don’t know what McKinley is, then it’s definitely too early for you to read further :)

Best time: May
Duration: 15-20 days

Mera Peak (6476 m)

The highest of the trekking peaks in Nepal. It does not require special mountaineering training, but, of course, requires good physical shape.

Best time: October-November (the best), March-April (second season)
Duration: 18 days

Huascaran (6768 m)

The highest peak in Peru.

Best time: end of June - beginning of July
Duration: 7+ days
Description: risk.ru/users/tom/192762/

Ojos del Salado (6893 m)

The highest volcano on Earth (!) and the second highest peak in South America after Aconcagua, but in appearance it’s an inconspicuous mess! Located in the Atacama Desert on the border of Chile and Argentina.

Aconcagua (6962 m)

The highest point in South America. Geographically located in Argentina.

Peaks 7000+

Khan Tengri (7010 m)

A fantastic ice-stone pyramid of perfectly regular shape. The second peak of the Tien Shan after the Victory. The peak is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, seven kilometers from the border with China. Thanks to its height, technical difficulty and beauty, it has become one of the iconic peaks for any climber!

Lenin Peak (7134 m)

A mountain peak located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Technically, it is the least complex “seven-thousander” of the former USSR. Thanks to this it is mega popular. Throughout the summer season, alpine camps operate under the mountain; you can climb with qualified guides.

Peak Ismoil Somoni (Communism) (7495 m)

Once the highest peak of the Soviet Union, now the highest peak of Tajikistan. Cult mountain.

Mustag-Ata (7546 m)

One of the simplest seven-thousanders from a technical point of view. It is located on the territory of China, orographically in the Eastern Pamir system. It is possible to ascend and descend on skis (ski touring).

Peaks 8000+

Shisha Pangma (8027 m)

One of the simplest eight-thousanders from a technical point of view.

Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

The second of the three simplest and safest (relatively speaking, of course!) eight-thousanders.

Cho Oyu (8201 m)

It is considered the least difficult eight-thousander of the Himalayas. While trekking to Everest Base Camp in the fall of 2008, we stood right under its enormous wall!

Everest (8848 m)

December 11 marks International Mountain Day, established by the decision of the 57th UN General Assembly in January 2003. There are a total of 14 eight-thousanders on Earth. Only 30 climbers have managed to conquer them all so far. But the attempts do not stop, and every year, dozens of people die while climbing to the top...

Chomolungma (8848 meters)

Everest (Chomolungma) is the highest peak on the planet. It lies on Chinese territory. The tallest mountain in the world has the shape of a triangular pyramid. The southern slope is steeper; snow and firn are not retained on it, so it is bare.

The climate at the “third pole of the world” is extremely harsh. The temperature at the summit never rises above zero degrees Celsius, but at night it can drop to minus 60 degrees. In addition, winds of up to 55 meters per second are not uncommon on Chomolungma.

Everest, being the highest peak in the world, at the same time is not the most difficult to climb, but still quite dangerous. Throughout history, about 250 climbers have died on the slopes of the mountain.

The first time a person set foot on the summit of Everest was in 1953. The “third celestial pole” was then conquered by members of the British expedition. Soviet climbers first climbed Everest in May 1982 (more about this on the website).

Chogori or K2 (8611 meters)

K2 is the second highest mountain in the world after Everest, and technically it is one of the most difficult mountains in the world. The northernmost eight-thousander is located on the border of Kashmir (Pakistan) and China. The first successful ascent was made only in 1954 by an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio, despite the fact that attempts to conquer the peak had been made since 1902.

Our compatriots managed to climb Chogori along the Northern Ridge in 1996. The expedition led by Ivan Dusharin was composed of climbers from Togliatti, Ulyanovsk, Novosibirsk, Chelyabinsk and Severodvinsk. One of the expedition members, Igor Benkin, died.

From Dusharin’s memoirs: “The difficulty is that as you approach this brink, the whole body begins to fail, including the brain. You may still feel quite good, but if you “jump” a little, and the consequences can be catastrophic - the blood goes oxygen from the brain to the muscles and you can “swim away”. Perhaps something similar happened to Igor...”

According to statistics, for every four successful ascents of K2 there is one death. Until mid-2008, 284 people had reached the summit, 66 died. Expeditions to Chogori are sent only in the summer season. There were attempts to conquer the peak in winter, but none of them were successful.

Annapurna (8091 meters)

Of all the eight-thousanders, Annapurna was the first to be conquered. A successful ascent was made by a small French team in 1950 under the leadership of Maurice Herzog. All members of the expedition suffered frostbite, Herzog's fingers and toes were amputated. It is curious that the group did not initially plan to climb Annapurna; the climbers went to conquer another peak - Dhaulagiri.

The first Russians to climb the mountain were Nikolai Cherny and Sergei Arsentiev. This happened in 1991. Annapurna is considered one of the most difficult peaks to climb. According to statistics, every fourth of its conquerors never returned.

The legendary Soviet climber Anatoly Boukreev also died while climbing Annapurna. On December 25, 1997, at an altitude of 6000 meters, Boukreev, Italian Simone Moro and cameraman Denis Sobolev were covered by an avalanche. Of the three, only the Italian Moro survived, who later wrote the book “Comet over Annapurna”, dedicated to Boukreev.

Nangaparbat (8125 meters)

Nanga Parbat (also known as Nanga Parbat) is the westernmost peak of the Himalayas. Along with K2 and Annapurna, it is one of the three most dangerous eight-thousanders for climbing. Mortality - 22.3% in relation to the number of those who reached the top. As of 2011, 64 climbers died there.

The first attempt to conquer Nanga Parbat was made in 1895 by the Englishman Albert Mummery. However, it was not successful; the entire team was buried under an avalanche at an altitude of 6400 meters. The German-American expedition of 1932 was also unsuccessful. Then the climbers managed to climb to a height of 7850 meters. A strong storm prevented us from going further. Nine members of the expedition died during the descent.

Nanga Parbat was conquered only in July 1953. The ascent was made almost single-handedly by a member of the German-Austrian expedition, Hermann Buhl. During the ascent, he had to spend the night in the open air at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters - an unprecedented case.

Kanchenjunga (8586 meters)

The third highest eight-thousander in the world is located on the border of Nepal and India, in the Himalayas. From 1905 to 1931, four attempts were made to reach the summit. All of them were unsuccessful. The German expedition advanced the highest - the climbers managed to climb to a height of 7,700 meters. Kanchenjunga was conquered in 1955 by the British Joe Brown and George Bend.

In 1989, members of the Second Soviet Himalayan Expedition, led by Eduard Myslovsky, made the first ever traverse of all four eight-thousandth peaks of Kanchenjunga.