Eski-Kermen is a mysterious “dead” city in the mountains of Crimea. Eski-Kerman. Cave city Eski Kermen opening hours
Greetings, friends!
Where else do you think you would see "mountains" of Afghanistan from the film 9th Company ? And here they are - Eski-Kermen, a cave city in Crimea, was happy to provide a location for the filming of a famous action movie.
And now another question - can each of you count the grottoes and caves, of which there are more than 300! I think this will take you more than one day, so try not to get carried away with the process and not stay in the siege well until the Ministry of Emergency Situations and rescuers arrive.
Let's get started getting acquainted with the next cave city of our peninsula.
It is surprising that few facts have been preserved about such an ancient settlement. All historical lines and plots are mainly the result of the work of archaeologists and other researchers.
Despite the fact that the founding date of Eski-Kermen is considered to be the 6th century. when the Byzantines created fortified cave cities on the territory of Crimea, there are still chronicles telling about the “amazing country of the Douro, located high up.”
Lived in this “country” were the Goths, who, according to the chronicles, were excellent warriors, farmers, and also kind and hospitable people.
We know that Eski-Kermen, translated as an old fortress, from a small settlement in the 12-13th centuries. has grown into a large, prosperous city. Residents were engaged in viticulture, farming, and trade. The territory and population of Eski-Kermen increased.
Naturally, no one would bother to create their own home in such a place unless necessary. That is, the cave settlement was necessary for protection and defense against raids.
Why was the cave city deserted?
Even steep cliffs and seemingly impregnable walls did not save Eski-Kermen from death.
In 1299, the city was stormed by the Mongols led by Temnik Nogai, leaving the settlement devastated and defeated. After 100 years, the Golden Horde attack again, and already burn the ancient settlement to the ground.
By the 15th century Eski-Kermen is completely falling into disrepair, and its inhabitants are leaving it.
What was Eski-Kermen like “during his lifetime”: description
The Eski-Kermen plateau, nicknamed the table mountain, rises in the middle of a green valley. Now it is almost completely overgrown with bushes and trees, and various paths and paths have formed around it.
In ancient times, the plateau was chosen for living due to its favorable terrain and location.
Numerous natural grottoes, crevices, stone labyrinths and corridors provided good shelter, and sheer walls and steep 30-meter precipices served as an excellent defensive point.
Needless to say about the all-round view from a bird's eye view. In addition to natural “structures,” residents built watchtowers, strong walls, and military installations.
Where is Eski-Kermen in Crimea
This cave city is also located in the Bakhchisarai region, namely 14-15 km to the south. Just 4 km to the north there is a plateau and a cave city.
But if in terms of visibility the distances are not great, then in order to get from one cave city to another by land roads, even by car, it will take at least half an hour.
I’ll tell you how to get there at the end of the article.
What can you see there now?
There have been no residential premises in Eski-Kermen for a long time. But cave structures, both artificial and natural, give an excellent idea of the structure, way of life and life of the ancient city.
You will encounter spacious and multi-room, multi-tiered and tunnel-type caves, from the cut-out window and ventilation openings of which a fabulous view of the neighboring plateau opens.
In Eski-Kermen, the main street of the city, enclosed by walls, has been preserved. The deep petrified trace of the carts is one of the amazing evidence of that time.
This cave village also has its own siege well, where water was collected and stored. As well as temples, basilicas, with the remains of former luxury - a throne, an altar, frescoes, tombs and burial vaults.
All about excursions to Eski-Kermen
You can go to the ancient city with a tour group or explore the trails and caves on your own. If you want to learn many legends and historical facts, hire a professional guide as your assistant.
There are signs and signs on the territory of the cave city. But some tourists still risk getting lost, because you can go up and down either along the northern or southern slope, and on the eastern and northern slopes you need to look for a path.
Where to start the inspection
From the south side are the main gate and entrance to the city. It was here that the road passed, traces of which remained on this land forever.
Researchers, having recreated the plan of the fortified city, discovered that it was very difficult for an enemy to get here.
Defensive walls, three pairs of gates and open spaces between them, which were fired upon from all sides - this is not a quest or a “lightning strike” for you!
You will soon see for yourself the premises of the combat casemates, from where, during the siege, according to one version, warriors threw down boulders and sent a whole stream of arrows. Next follow complexes of military and siege caves, once connected by defensive thick (up to 2 m) walls.
You will also find yourself in granaries, which were passed off as Afghan wells with Mujahideen in the film “9th Company”. This is the most popular place in Eski-Kermen after the release of the film, where every tourist takes a photo.
And here into the siege well It’s just better not to interfere. A very difficult and narrow descent, steep, high and half-erased steps, a dark abyss - you need good insurance, equipment and preparation here.
Temple complexes
A little lower and west of the main entrance in the rocks there is an active cave temple of the Three Horsemen. Here, on the wall, an ancient fresco was discovered depicting three horsemen, one of which is presumably St. George the Victorious.
And “inside” the city you will find a spacious temple, with preserved columns, an altar niche and a bishop’s chair, a font, benches for parishioners, and tombs. It was also decorated with frescoes, but they have not survived to this day.
On the eastern slope there is another small but interesting temple - Church of the Assumption . This is a very small room, which, as it turned out, was previously a grain pit, a winery, and a water storage facility. Then a temple was founded there, and the walls were painted with frescoes. Here the fragments are better preserved.
Once upon a time there was life here
Archaeologists have completely restored the picture of the life of the local residents. The living quarters were mainly built of stone, had two floors and dense extensions, and the roofs were covered with tiles.
Numerous artifacts were found here - women's jewelry, ceramic objects, utensils and tools. The population was engaged in crafts, cultivating fields and vineyards, and raising livestock.
During excavations of the ruins, human remains were discovered. Some died as a result of fires, others were hacked to death with sabers.
This suggests that the attack was swift and sudden, and many were unable to escape or leave their own homes.
Finishing the walk around Eski-Kermen
You can go down to the road along the northern slope. There is a parking area at the foot of the plateau on this side.
In principle, you can start your ascent from here, and go down the southern slope on the way back to appreciate the surrounding landscapes.
Along the way you will be accompanied by the walls of a nearby picturesque rock - Zangurma-Kobalar . Few people visit this plateau, and it’s a shame! There are also traces of the presence of ancient peoples - rock cuttings, tarapans, hollowed out niches. And what grottoes there are, natural stone sculptures and a wonderful view from the top!
What visitors say
There are a lot of reviews about Eski-Kermen; during the tourist season it’s like a city park of culture and recreation.
Still, there are a few disadvantages that should be mentioned:
- remote location, difficult to get to without your own transport;
- no sources;
- dangerous cliffs, slippery stairs, ledges, passages.
There are many more advantages, they are expressed in enthusiastic remarks from visitors and positive emotions.
Information for visitors
Visits occur only during daylight hours, ticket offices are open until 16.00 .
On the territory of the Eski-Kermen nature reserve forbidden make fires, set up tent cities and stay overnight. Vandalism is punishable by a fine!
- Ticket price: 100/50 rubles.
- You can use the services of a guide - 100 rubles per person.
- Trip to the foot of the plateau by jeep – from 1000 rubles per car.
How to get to the treasured plateau
Unfortunately, there are no convenient and direct flights, except for excursion ones.
Therefore, by public transport from , you need to get to one of the following villages: Zalesnoye, Krasny Poppy, Ternovka, Kholmovka. Then follow on foot for about 4-5 km.
By car, according to the coordinates for the navigator (44°36’59.4″N 33°44’16.6″E ) , move through the village. Ternovka - you will find yourself at the Southern slope, through the village. Kholmovka - near Severny.
If you are driving your own car, this is what your route will look like from the village of Khodzha-Salo at the foot of Mangup-Kale. I’ll warn you right away that after the village of Kholmovka the road is terrible, you won’t be able to accelerate much.
On my trips, be it Türkiye or Crimea, I always use the application maps.me. It works without the Internet and shows the area in great detail, unlike Google, which concentrates on hotels and restaurants.
If you're wondering how to use these unique maps to their full potential, and not just as a navigator, then here's good material.
As soon as you get to the restaurant and parking lot (see the very first photo of the article), you have a choice: leave the car and continue on foot or jump into a jeep.
By the way, if you have your own “all-terrain vehicle”, then many people drive further, although I personally highlighted there "brick". Not on the road, but at the entrance))
They will also take you if you order yourself jeep tour to the plateau. Climb straight up so you can take care of your legs)).
But the road for a pedestrian will not be so tiring. In fact, it’s even easier to get here faster than Mangup and. So decide for yourself.
Good to know
In the Dzhurla gully, not far from Eski-Kermen, there is a tourist base of the same name. There you can stay in comfortable rooms, tent camps, and even rent an exclusive residential cave room. See more details here eski-kermen.rf .
Don’t forget, the cave city is a rather dangerous place, be careful and watch your children!
Also, don’t forget about yourself; shoes should be comfortable and not have slippery soles. Take plenty of water and a small snack.
And don’t miss visiting the main ones, as well as cafes with national cuisine!
Look for more important and useful resources in the “ “ section, and you will find all my video guides about traveling Crimea on the “ “ tab. And be sure to join our
Official information
Medieval fortified city in the southwest. parts of the Crimea Peninsula,
14 km from Bakhchisaray and 5 km northwest
Ruins of the medieval city of Mangup-Kale
General information about Eski-Kermen (according to published sources)
The name Eski-Kermen is translated from Crimean Tatar as “old fortress”.
The city's territory occupied an area of 8.5 hectares, having a length of 1040 m and a width of 170 m. Built on a table-shaped mountain plateau, limited by cliffs up to 30 m high. Eski-Kermen is part of the Bakhchisaray historical and cultural reserve.
The city of Eski-Kermen was founded at the end of the 6th century AD. e. as a Byzantine fortification and existed until the end of the 14th century. The history of the city before the 10th century is little known, since the city was an insignificant fortification. Although at the moment some researchers are inclined to believe that perhaps the Doros fortress was located here, and not on the Leaky Cape of Mangup-Kale. This is reflected in the name of the city by the Crimean Tatars: “Old Fortress”. Indirect confirmation of this hypothesis is the presence of a siege well of the 6th century, with a staircase of six flights and eighty steps, with a twenty-meter corridor; This was not the case in other known fortifications of the Byzantines during the construction of the defensive line against the raids of nomads in the Middle Ridge of Crimea.
From the 10th century, the gradual expansion of the city and the growth of its importance began, with the greatest prosperity occurring in the 12th and 13th centuries, when the number of inhabitants exceeded 2000 people. At that time, a full-fledged medieval city already existed here, the plateau was built up with rectangular blocks, separated by streets wide enough for a cart to pass through; the ruling bishop of the district was located on the territory of the city, as evidenced by the remains of a pulpit in the temple at the central gate. The Basilica, supposedly built between the end of the 4th century and the beginning of the 8th century, is being rebuilt and expanded in the central part of the plateau.
In 1299, the city was destroyed by Mongol troops led by the Golden Horde beklarbek Nogaya was no longer able to fully restore its former meaning. In 1399, the Mongol army, led by the temnik of the Golden Horde Edigei, destroyed the rebuilt fortifications and completely ruined the city, which after that was never restored. Only a small settlement remains in the vicinity: Cherkes-Kermen (village Krepkoe) located between the northern tip of Eski-Kermen and Kyz-Kule. It existed from the period of late antiquity until the early 70s. XX century.
Not far from the village of Kholmovka there is the cave city of Eski-Kermen. The Byzantines built the fortress at the end of the 6th century to defend Chersonesus. In the 8th century, the Khazars destroyed the city, but the local residents did not leave their places. The cave city of Eski-Kermen was finally destroyed in 1299 as a result of the raid of the Golden Horde emir Nogai, who took revenge on everyone and everything for the death of his beloved grandson, whom he sent to Crimea for tribute.
The original name of the city was forgotten, becauseEski-Kermen or Old Fortress- the name given by the Tatars, although during their rule no one lived in the city
The city is located 18 kilometers southwest of Bakhchisarai on a separate flat peak with steep slopes and impenetrable cliffs. The height of the mountain is approximately 300 meters and it stretches from north to south. The surface of the mountain is similar to an airplane wing and has a length of 1040 meters, and a maximum width of 200 meters. The summit of the mountain is at the southern end of the plateau.
From the north, the plateau is somewhat elongated and decreases slightly towards the north, ending in a pointed rocky cliff. In the west and east, the cave city of Eski-Kermen is limited by rocky cliffs with a height of about 30 meters. On the southern side, where the steep cliffs are of small height, a road winds up a gentle slope, which in front of the peak is carved right into the rock. This part of the plateau was protected in ancient times by powerful defensive walls.
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There are regions that are rich in historical, architectural and cultural values. And there is a region that is valuable in itself - this is Crimea. In fact, the Crimean peninsula is a continuous reserve. It is difficult to take a dozen steps here without bumping into a historical monument. One of these is Eski-Kermen, a bastion city hewn out of the rocks.
Eski-Kermen Citadel: birth, greatness and death
Actually, rock cities are not uncommon in Crimea. Shrouded in secrets, permeated with mysticism, they, it seems, still keep the shadows of their inhabitants - Taurians, Alans, Goths and Hellenes, Scythians and Sarmatians. This is especially acutely felt in Eski-Kermen, one of the largest cave cities.
The fortress structure on a flat, high plateau well protected by rocks was apparently built by the Byzantines at the beginning of the 6th century to protect Chersonese-Korsun. However, this fortification hardly played a major strategic role, and some time later, historians say, it was captured by the Khazars.
However, the citadel on the plateau gradually expanded, and with it the city grew. At the beginning of the 12th century, according to archaeologists, the Old Fortress (this is what the Crimean Tatar word “eski-kermen” means) extended over an area of 8.5 hectares and over two thousand people lived in it. The wide stone “tabletop” was built up with residential areas parallel to each other, between which carts scurried along fairly spacious streets. The remains of temple pulpits convince us that in Eski-Kermen there was not just a priest, but a hierarch, a bishop. During these same years, the basilica was expanded and significantly expanded. Everything suggests that the city in the mountains was an important administrative center.
The settlement was surrounded by powerful natural walls, reliable gates, “sally” gates, towers, battle platforms and casemates. Remains of an irrigation system unearthed in the surrounding area and terraces of wild grapes prove that the local economy was based on agriculture. By the way, the ancient vines, having fallen into the hands of Crimean breeders, became a valuable source for new grape varieties.
cave city Eski-Kermen - Temple of Donators
Several times life in the walled city was reduced to a tiny, smoldering spark. This happened in 1299, when the troops of the ferocious Nogai, avenging his son killed in Kafa, destroyed Eski-Kermen to the ground. Not immediately, but the city was still reborn after the bloody revenge. However, not for long: in 1399, after the assault of the Horde by Khan Edigei, life in the cave settlement completely petrified, merging with the silent rocks.
"Eski-Kermen" - grottoes and tombs
Today the Old Fortress is a museum under the skies. Firstly, here you can see the caves, which in the early Middle Ages were filled with donkeys and goats, pithos and amphorae with wine, slings and bows, sheep skins and tiles. There are almost 350 such grottoes in the ghost town.
Residential buildings on the sites excavated by archaeologists date back to a later time. They were two-story, durable, and their inhabitants, as has now been established, died from fire. In some basements, researchers found skeletons, including children's skeletons - apparently, this is where the townspeople were hiding, hoping to survive the scorching elements.
Secondly, you can wander around the ruins of the basilica, built at the same time as the first fortification. It was of a rectangular, strict shape, with three faceted, semicircular apses (protrusions below the main building) and was divided into three parts - naves. The Polish envoy and cartographer Martin Broniewski, who visited this place in 1578, wrote that the basilica was decorated with marble and serpentine columns. It must be said that the basilica “died” before the settlement - its main part was turned into a cemetery, and a chapel was built in one of the naves.
The siege well with its attributes - a steep and deep staircase of 84 steps, a 20-meter tunnel and a shaft where water was stored in case of a long blockade - is of great interest to tourists. Water was supplied by a source “intercepted” by the builders of fortifications. This well is a real artifact: nothing like it was found in any Byzantine fortress built in Crimea for protection against nomads.
"Eski-Kermen" - altars and frescoes
Finally, the ruins of sanctuaries attract visitors to Crimea. For example, the Church of the Three Horsemen, carved into a stone ridge at the base of the fortress. This sacred structure has two entrances, the space between which was illuminated from two windows. There are two graves in the temple - a small one, probably for a child, and a larger one. Near them there is a recess for candlesticks and a recess with a cross.
Everything suggests that these burials were the object of worship. At the “adult” grave one can see the fresco that gave the temple its name: St. George the Victorious, killing the serpent, and two horsemen on the left and right, one of them with a child behind. Historians believe that the fresco was created in honor of some kind of battle - so important for the townspeople that some of its participants, who probably died, were ranked among the saints. In any case, both the temple and the fresco were created during the period - the end of the 12th century - when the Tatars pierced the Crimea like hungry wolves into a deer that had strayed from the herd.
Another temple, more ancient, was carved at the same time as the first fortification at the main gate. It had three entrances, an honorary chair for the bishop and a baptismal font. There are tombs carved into the floor. The shape of the building is so unusual, asymmetrical, that it has baffled more than one generation of Crimean residents: the Tatars, for example, called this place “The Judgment Seat,” apparently believing that the building served not only for prayers, but also for other purposes. The frescoes that decorated the walls of this temple, unfortunately, have not survived. But the painting of another church, the Assumption, although partially, is still visible. Residents of Eski-Kermen built this chapel... in a former winery. More precisely: at first it was a pit for grain, then grapes were pressed here... And then the room was adapted into a church.
This, of course, is not all that the ancient city reveals to curious tourists. Towers, watch platforms, staircases carved into limestone, loopholes and embrasures... Here, every stone, every fragment of ancient ceramics fascinates and whispers its own story - about former times and former people.
Valley of the Givers
Very close to the dead city lies the Cherkez-Kermen valley, where there was another temple - Donatorov. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, it captivates the minds with its preserved fresco depicting the liturgy of the Holy Grail. The “name” of the church is obviously connected with its patrons, because “donator” in Latin means “giver”. The famous Soviet historian Nikolai Repnikov, who carried out excavations in Crimea, believed that the Donator Church, along with the valley and the fortress, were once a single complex. The same scientist described the numerous frescoes for which the temple was famous - all of them, according to him, were distinguished by the highest craftsmanship, in which the old Constantinople school was evident. Alas, almost nothing remains of the drawings, but today liturgies are sometimes held on the site where the shrine once stood.
Cave with Internet
At the “bottom” of Eski-Kermen there is a camp site of the same name. This is a whole ensemble of comfortable and, at the same time, exotic holiday: the hotel offers rooms of varying comfort, and for lovers of exclusivity - a cave room in a medieval style. Inside the estate there is also a parking lot, a café with home-cooked food, a zoo corner where children enjoy playing, a bathhouse, a tent camp, horses for walking and ponds for fishing. To fish on the territory of the base “from dawn to dusk,” that is, all day, you need to pay 1,000 rubles. The catch, and the ponds are abundant with carp, silver carp and crucian carp, can be grilled in person and eaten in the gazebo in the fresh air. Just above the fortress, in the mountains, a small, clean lake sparkles, where you can also try your luck with a fishing rod in your hands (200 rubles per day of fishing).
Eski-Kermen on the map of Crimea
Road to Ghost Town
From Simferopol to the tourist base, as well as to Eski-Kermen itself, you can get to it as follows:
- by regular bus Simferopol-Zalesnoye to the village of Krasny Mak;
- by regular bus Simferopol-Kholmovka to the final stop or to Krasny Mak;
- by train Simferopol-Sevastopol to the village of Frontovoy (station “1509km”), and from there by bus 45 to Krasny Mak or Kholmovka.
- From the named villages, following the signs, you need to walk approximately 6 kilometers.
From Sevastopol you can get there:
- by train Sevastopol-Simferopol to Frontovoy, and then by the above-mentioned bus route 45.
How to get from Yalta:
to Red Poppy - by regular bus Yalta-Bakhchisarai, and then on foot, according to road signs.
Departure from Bakhchisarai:
- by bus Bakhchisaray-Zalesnoye to Krasny Mak;
- by bus Bakhchisaray-Kholmovka to the final destination or to Krasny Mak.
The easiest way, of course, is to go to these protected places by car: from Bakhchisarai you need to get to the village of Tankovovoye (this is about 14 kilometers), and then drive to Krasny Mak (another 4 kilometers).
Before Red Poppy you need to turn right and drive up to the village of Kholmovka. In front of it, turn left, approach the quarry, turn right and proceed to the farm fence. At this point you should turn left again, into the valley, from which the legendary and majestic Eski-Kermen will rise towards you.
However, people who choose public transport and walk several kilometers will not regret it for a minute: the landscapes around are so enchanting that the road will seem like a journey into a fairy tale.
Last year I visited the cave city of Chufut-Kale. This year, in the heat of the day, we went to conquer the cave city of Eski-Kermen. If a visit to the first one last year was combined with an excursion to the Khan’s Palace in Bakhchisarai, this time the day was dedicated only to Eski-Kermen. Moreover, we traveled part of the way, about 6 km, on foot.
The route was standard - take a minibus to Artbukhta, take a sea ferry to the Northern side and from Nakhimov Square take a bus to the village of Krasny Poppy, from where you can walk to the cave city of Eski-Kermen.
As a result of the trip, I got quite a lot of photographs, and I included some of them in separate stories:
Eski-Kermen was founded on a remote plateau at the beginning of the 6th century; according to assumption, the Scythian-Sarmatians and existed until the end of the 14th century. Its name translated from Tatar means “Old Fortress” - it is one of the most picturesque cave cities. It is located in the southwestern part of the mountainous Crimea, 6 km south of the village of Krasny Mak, on a table mountain plateau, elongated along the axis.
The cave city of Eski-Kermen was a first-class fortress for its time. The steep cliffs were practically inaccessible, and in the upper reaches of the crevices along which one could climb to the city, battle walls rose. The defense system included well-defended gates and sally gates, ground towers and cave casemates.
Eski-Kermen was a major center of crafts and trade, but the basis of its economy was agriculture - viticulture, gardening, and horticulture. In the vicinity of Eski-Kermen, the remains of an irrigation system and traces of terraced areas with wild vines were found. For a number of years, these vines have been studied by employees of the Crimean Agricultural Institute, trying to restore grape varieties that have lived for hundreds of years. Some of them are already used as breeding material for developing new grape varieties.
We get off the bus, our journey begins in the village of Krasny Mak. The village is surrounded by picturesque terrain: on the left is a valley with mountain outcrops. For example, Uzun-Tarla rises in the distance to the left of the road to Eski-Kermen.
On the right is a rock wall with the remains of Bash-Kai.
Then the road goes through the field. Although it has recently rained, the grass on the field is beginning to dry out, and there are a huge number of large grasshoppers and other living creatures jumping from under your feet.
The sun is mercilessly baking, and you want to find some shade, lie down and relax until the evening in the coolness under a light breeze. But this is only the beginning of the journey; a whole day ahead, filled with interesting adventures, awaits.
Interactive panorama of the field and road.
But the long road in the heat is coming to an end, and we are approaching the goal of our journey. The slopes of Zangurma-Kobalar, the ridge adjacent to the cave city, are already visible.
With characteristic recesses-grottoes on the slopes.
And here Eski-Kermen appeared, or rather its northern tip. The main life on it still took place in the southern part.
I found such a diagram on the Internet. We approached the city from the north (above)
The Northern Watch Complex is located here. From here you have the best view into the distance, as can be seen in the following photos.
Northern watch complex, VI - XIII centuries.
In the northern part of the Eski-Kermen plateau there is a gate fortified with combat platforms and casemates. Opposite it there is a small rock outcrop in which the Northern Watch Complex is located. At the foot of the outcrop, a staircase carved into the rock begins (2 flights, 33 steps), leading to the surface of the rock, surrounded by a wooden fence. Along the stairs there are two rooms carved into the rock: the lower one was used as a tomb, the upper one as a guard room.
From the upper platform of the complex one could see the northern approaches to the city and the entire area of the foothills. In the Middle Ages, the Northern Watch Complex was connected to the main massif of Eski-Kermen by wooden walkways.
In this “stone with holes” there was always a guard who guarded the approaches from the north and, in case of danger, had to give a signal.
At the top of the Northern Watch Complex. View south, towards the city.
A piece of guard caves and Mount Kaya-Bash.
Our “lookouts” are waving their hands from the guardhouse.
Again, the view is to the south - a pine tree is perched on one of the rocks on the side. And it grows in a hanging position on a vertical rock.
Remains of a medieval tower with a gate - Kyz-Kule Castle (Maiden Tower)
It seems that the tower is nearby and can be easily and quickly reached. In fact, the only way to get to Kyz-Kul is by an ancient footpath with steps carved into the rock from another gorge located to the west of the tower. To do this, you need to go down from the northern sentinel complex to the saddle and turn left, carefully descending along a stepped slope, in places with traces of artificial undercuts. Then go along the road to the former village of Krepkoye (now there are sheds here). From here you can climb from the gorge to the castle.
Panorama of how the northern side was seen from the top of the patrol complex. You can zoom in and move the image.
More view of the nearby mountain
And to the valley. We came along this road.
There is a deep chasm between the Northern Watch complex and the main part. And while I was photographing it, a strong wind took my cap and dragged it down, I didn’t even have time to pick it up. It was also useless to run after her - there was a multi-meter cliff ahead. Fortunately, Valerka also noticed how she fell; he was closer to the place of the fall, on the path under the sentinel complex and found her. Otherwise, I could easily get sunstroke.
But stop hanging around at the Northern Watch complex, the main part is still further away. Let's walk along the path near the rocky slope
And here is one of the first cave structures. This is what a cave made in a rock looks like from the inside. in place of the opening there was a door, and, probably, the window was covered with something. And the round hole in the ceiling is probably for the smoke from the fireplace to be drawn out.
The next object is what allowed the city to remain impregnable for a long time - the siege well.
Siege well, VI - IX centuries.
The siege well is located in the northern part of the eastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The structure is a staircase descent (6 flights, 84 steps), ending with a captage gallery that leads to a cave where there was a natural source of water. The total water supply of the well was about 75 cubic meters. Water was delivered to the surface manually. Each descent march ended with a platform where the water-carriers could disperse.
Apparently, the siege well was built simultaneously with the fortress in the 6th century. Researchers associate the cessation of the structure’s functioning with the deliberate destruction of the well by the Khazars. The siege well was used as a source of water for the population of Eski-Kermen in the event of a long siege. In peacetime, rainwater was used, as well as water supplied to the city through a ceramic water pipe from the Bilderan ravine.
I didn’t dare go down below the guard cell (it’s just one flight of stairs), after that the steps were worn out, broken and more and more resembled a children’s slide, which you can easily slide down on your butt, but it’s difficult to climb back up. The next photo is a view from one of the caves with steps.
Part of the city with multi-level caves and stairs between them
A few more photos of the city outside
And from within
Looking southeast again
A few more views of the city
View of the neighboring Chupak-Syrt rock through a telephoto lens.
And again stones dug by man-made caves.
This is where I decided to shine
An interesting cave, reminiscent of a hole - the home of a hobbit. With a round window and a round entrance. It’s a pity that the entrance was blocked by a tree that grew here.
A wooden bridge over the abyss once led to this stone. That hole on the right.
Large caves were reinforced from the inside with stone columns.
Along the walls there were special niches for arranging beds. In guard rooms, the window was usually located at the head of such a bed.
Not all caves have withstood the struggle of time. This one, for example, had a roof collapse.
View to the north from the southern part of Eski-Kermen. Somewhere there at the end of the ridge is the Northern Watch Complex.
Here we find ourselves in an interesting structure - a cave temple. The frescoes in it have been chipped away by vandals, but some traces of them are still visible.
Temple of the Assumption, XIII century.
The Temple of the Assumption is located in the eastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The complex has a rectangular shape (5.7×3.25 m). To the right of the entrance is the altar part. A niche was carved into the northwestern wall in which a wine press (tarapan) was installed. There is a small water tank in the center. The remains of fresco paintings are preserved on the walls of the temple. In the altar there are images of the Annunciation scene, the baby Jesus with angels, and the Mother of God - Hodegetria. On the north-eastern wall there was a scene of the Presentation; the section of the wall opposite the altar was occupied by a large composition of the Assumption.
The construction of the church dates back to the 13th century; after the death of the city, the premises were apparently adapted for economic needs.
On the left side of the frame is the entrance to the temple, on the right is the mountain range.
Round hole-chimney.
The next part is the main protective and main inhabited structure of the city - the Main City Gate complex
Complex of the Main City Gate, VI - XIII centuries.
On the southern side, on the Eski-Kermen plateau, a wheeled road carved into the rock, winding in three marches, leads to the Main City Gate. The upper march of the road was fortified with a proteichism (advanced defensive wall), from which the rocky foundation has been preserved. The opening of the main gate was carved into the rock; above the gate there was a rectangular tower, from which rock cuttings have been preserved. Behind the gates the main street of the city began. In the area of the wheel road and the Main City Gate there are a number of cave structures for various purposes: combat casemates, churches, tombs.
Behind the gate, in the eastern part of the passage, there is a cave temple “Judgement”. The complex has an asymmetrical layout (15x17.5x2 m). Three doorways lead into the temple, equipped with grooves for wooden door frames. The ceiling rests on 4 columns carved into the rock. The altar part was apparently painted with frescoes. The construction of the temple dates back to the 11th - 12th centuries, to the 13th century. the complex was connected to the chapel in the southeastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau and acquired a modern appearance.
For many centuries, loaded carts walked along these ruts, delivering food up and the results of the labor of artisans down.
Temple "Judgement". Vitya imagines himself as either a supreme leader or a priest and is trying to resolve the situation - who to execute and who to pardon.
The time is already approaching evening, the last bus from Red Poppy is leaving soon, it’s time to go down. On the way you come across the Temple of the Three Horsemen, carved into a separate stone.
Temple of the Three Horsemen, XIII century.
The Temple of the Three Horsemen is located on the southeastern slope of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The church, carved into a free-standing rock block, has a trefoil shape (5.5 x 3.5 x 2.7 m). The altar part is separated from the rest of the room by the rocky base of the altar barrier, on which the wooden parts of the iconostasis were placed. A bench has been carved along the walls of the temple. There are 2 graves in the floor, an adult and a child. on the northern wall there is a fresco depicting three horsemen with halos, cuirasses and flowing cloaks. The middle one strikes the serpent with a spear. The one closest to the altar holds the figure of a boy on the horse’s croup. Above the image there is an inscription in Greek: “the holy martyrs of Christ were cut out and written for the salvation of the soul and the remission of sins...”.
Several interpretations of the saints depicted on the fresco are known: Theodore Stratelates, Theodore Tyrone and St. George the Victorious; George in different scenes; George and local warriors; George, Theodore Stratelates and Dmitry of Thessalonica. The construction of the temple of the “three horsemen” dates back to the 13th century.
One last look at the opposite part of the valley and we move to the starting point of the inspection.
We are seeing off a group of cyclists who arrived in the cave city almost simultaneously with us, took a guided tour and are now heading back.
We have to quickly, quickly, in some places even run, move towards the bus. Time is running out, we may not make it in time. And the sun burns only a little weaker than at noon.
But here are the already familiar Red Poppy Mountains. We made it. The bus didn’t show us its tail; we even had a couple of minutes to sit and drink up our liquid reserves. By the way, each of us drank about 3 liters of water during this trip.
