Forio: a sprawling commune in the western part of the Italian island of Ischia. What interesting things can you see in Forio? Springs and healing
Ischia is the island of eternal youth and beauty. Known for its healing thermal waters. It will win the hearts of even seasoned tourists.
Ischia is a rocky volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples, Campania region. A climatic resort with many active thermal springs and lush, varied vegetation. An ancient land with priceless historical heritage, cultural artifacts, picturesque gorges and gardens.
There are 3 volcanoes on the island: Epomeo (789 m), Trabotti (512 m) and Monte Vezzi (395 m). The last eruption was in 1301. Today, only water vapor and hot thermal springs remind of their active activity, thanks to which rest and treatment are possible all year round. There are also earthquakes on the island, the last one was recorded in 2017.
Ischia Porto
Ischia Ponte
Casamicciola Terme
Lacco Ameno
Serrara Fontana
Barano d'Ischia
5 things to do in Ischia
- Spend the day swimming in the luxurious pools of the Poseidon Gardens;
- spend an unforgettable evening in Forio - at the Terra del Fuoco tavern, see a Neapolitan folk performance;
- climb along a narrow path to the top of the “mountain that attracts clouds” - Epomeo volcano;
- appreciate the culinary symbol of the island - the famous Iskitan rabbit;
- buy local cosmetics made from island mud and thermal water.
Legend
There is a beautiful legend about the origin of the island. Jupiter, during the battle with the Giants, tore off a huge piece of tuff from Mount Etna and threw it at the hated Typhon. But Venus managed to change the direction of the rock's flight. She fell into the waters of the Bay of Naples. This is how the island appeared. The goddess landscaped it and populated it with animals. But the vengeful Typhon continued to express his anger through volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. Now the giant is mostly in a state of sleep: its breath comes out through underwater craters in the form of thermal springs.
When is the best time to go to Ischia?
The island is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Geographically, it is part of the Neapolitan Riviera zone. The climate of Ischia is subtropical Mediterranean, with an abundance of sunny days - more than 250 per year. Average temperature is +17°C (from +10°C in winter to +28°C in summer). By June the water warms up to +22°C. The velvet season ends in October, and the rains arrive towards the end of the month.
From the beginning of April to the end of October is the best time to visit the island. But thanks to the thermal springs, it is comfortable here all year round.
Main resorts of Ischia
Ischia
Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese), photo Bernhard Chudy
The oldest part of the island is its unofficial capital, the commune of Ischia. It is divided into the administrative center - Ischia Porto, and the cozy suburb - Ischia Ponte. The main historical attraction of the commune is the Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese). An ancient citadel founded by the Greeks in the 5th century BC. and reached its modern size by 1441. It stands on a small piece of land covered with rock pines. In 1301, residents of the city of Geronda, destroyed by the eruption of Epomea, took refuge on this tiny island. Today, Castello Aragonese from Ischia can be reached along a narrow causeway.
On the territory of Ischia Porto there is a multifunctional thermal center Ischia (Terme di Ischia), with a pleasant, relaxing environment that enhances the therapeutic effect of the thermal springs. Water with a high content of mineral salts, sodium chloride sulfate, is recommended for the treatment of chronic joint diseases and rheumatism, obesity, muscle pain, neuralgia, and gynecological diseases. Term website www.termeischia.eu.
In Ischia Ponte there is a park called Il Giardino Eden - “The Gardens of Eden”, a separate coastal area behind the Aragonese Castle. Warm springs flow right off the shore, forming natural saunas. There are four swimming pools, two of which are filled with sea water. From "Eden" there are views of the castle and the island of Capri.
Forio
Forio is a commune in the west of Ischia. In the 7th century BC. The Greeks settled here. They built the temple of Venus of Chitarskaya. The fortress tower of Torrione (15th century) recalls the raids of the pirate Ariardeno Barbarossa. Today, celebrities willingly vacation in the city.
In Forio there is a unique landscape park “Gardens of La Mortella” (Giardini La Mortella), translated from Neapolitan as “divine myrtle”, created on a former lava flow. Exotic plants have been collected on two hectares, natural areas with different microclimates have been developed, and chamber concerts are held in the tea house.
The architecture of Forio is a mixture of Moorish and Greek styles. 12 medieval watchtowers, the elegant Temple of San Gaetano (17th century), and the late medieval Basilica of Santa Maria Loreto have been preserved. The symbol of the city is the Church of Madonna del Soccorso, patroness of sailors (XVIII century). At Villa La Colombaia there is a museum dedicated to the work of the famous director Luchino Visconti (Museo-Fondazione La Colombaia di Luchino Visconti).
On the territory of Forio, the largest thermal park has been opened, a UNESCO site - “Poseidon Gardens” (Giardini Poseidon Terme). The health complex, built at the foot of Epomeo, unites 22 cascading reservoirs (water temperature varies from +15° to +40°), including “Kneipp pools”, a cave with a Roman sauna, and a “Japanese bath” made of volcanic stone. Salt water is bromine-iodide, sodium sulfate-chloride-alkali containing compounds of magnesium, iron and radon. Recommended for the treatment of diseases of the musculoskeletal system, chronic respiratory diseases, dermatitis. Eucalyptus, olive and citrus trees grow on the terraces of the complex. The Grotto wine bar is open.
I wrote in detail about the thermal springs of the Gardens of Poseidon.
Casamicciola
Casamicciola Terme, photo by JustGlowing
Casamicciola Terme is a resort near the extinct volcano Rotaro in the north of Ischia. There is an old ceramics factory here - Menella. An archaeological park dating from the Late Bronze Age has been opened on the Castiglione hill.
In Casamicciola there is the Castiglione thermal park (Parco Termale Castiglione) with hot mineral springs, ten pools of different capacities and temperatures. The local treatment center provides comprehensive treatments. Castiglione Park has its own rocky beach, natural sauna, bar, and panoramic restaurant.
Lacco Ameno
Bizarre tuff rock Fungo – stone mushroom, photo Paolo
Lacco Ameno is a resort town in the northeast of Ischia. On the main square of Lacco stands the magnificent Church of the Holy Restituta (Basilica di Santa Restituta), rebuilt in 1036 from an early Christian temple. Below it is an archaeological park of the same name - the Pithecusa Museum (Museo archeologico di Pithecusae), where objects made of terracotta, bronze, and painted vessels are presented. Nearby is the famous Villa Arbusto Museum with a collection of fossil ceramics of world importance. From the Lacco Ameno embankment you can see the bizarre tuff rock Fungo - a stone “mushroom”.
In Lacco Ameno there are thermal “Gardens of Negombo” (Parco Termale Negombo) with a botanical park, a sandy beach, twelve swimming pools equipped with hydromassage; with a labyrinth and a grotto. There are three bars, a restaurant, and an open concert hall. Thermal water is recommended for the treatment of diseases of the musculoskeletal system, chronic sinusitis, bronchitis and pharyngitis, and gynecological diseases.
Serrara Fontana
Island of Sant’Angelo, photo Mario Migliaccio
Serrara Fontana is a commune in the south of the island. This is the most beautiful, most respectable corner of Ischia with an authentic fishing village on the coast. The Serrara area offers the best panoramic views of Capri and the Pontine Islands. Along the stone isthmus you can go to the lava island of Sant'Angelo: there are the ruins of a monastery watchtower.
The Serrara-Fontana thermal complex combines the Tropical parks (with 10 pools and a spa) and Aphrodite-Apollo parks (with 12 pools, a private beach, a sauna, a restaurant).
Barano
Maronti beach, photo toatec
In the commune of Barano d'Ischia there is the largest island beach, Maronti, 2 km long. In one of the coastal grottoes there flows the warm alkaline spring Nitrodi, discovered by the Romans. On the main square of Barano there are two ancient temples: San Rocco and San Sebastiano.
The Olympus Thermal Park (Parco Termale Olympus) is located above the beach. This complex includes hydromassage pools, a mud bath, and a garden with a sun terrace. Thermal water with a high content of mineral salts is recommended for the treatment of diseases of the musculoskeletal system, chronic sinusitis, bronchitis and pharyngitis, gynecological and nervous diseases.
History paragraph
Ischia was a Mediterranean outpost of the ancient Greeks from the 8th century BC. After several centuries, Greek settlers abandoned the island due to frequent volcanic eruptions. From the 3rd century BC. The Romans founded the trading port of Aenaria here, and the island soon became a thermal resort. In the 15th century it was captured by the army of Aragon. For a long time, Ischia, which belonged to the Spaniards, suffered from pirate raids. Since 1729, it has gone to the Neapolitan crown. The heyday of mass tourism began after World War II.
Entertainment
In addition to thermal parks, Ischia has natural saunas and springs. The most popular are Nitrodi and Olmitello. Near the village of Panza, in Sorgeto Bay, warm fumaroles extend off the coast into the sea. Near the Aphrodite-Apollo Park there is a natural sauna called Kavaskura.
If you get bored with swimming, go to the adventure park of the Barano commune - Indiana Park Ischia. During the day you can explore museums: the art gallery of the Torrione Tower, the weapons exhibition of the Aragonese Castle, the archaeological collections of Villa Arbusto. At night in Ischia Porto and Forio the lights are on, discos are noisy, clubs, taverns and pubs are open.
Holidays
Feast of St. Anne, photo Enzo Rando
The folklore festival “Ndrezzata” takes place on June 24 in the village of Buonopano. Men in folk costumes dance, crossing replicas of swords, depicting a battle.
At the end of June the International Film Festival of Ischia is held.
The end of July is marked by a holiday dedicated to the patroness of pregnant women, Saint Anne (Festa a Mare agli scogli di Sant’Anna). In the bay near the Aragonese castle there are elegantly decorated ships, competitions between boats are held, a performance and an enchanting fire show are held.
On August 26, a costume procession moves from the Castello Aragonese bridge in honor of the patron saint of Ischia Porto, Saint Alexander.
On September 29–30, in the town of Sant’Angelo, the feast of St. Michael the Archangel (Festa di San Michele Arcangelo), the patron saint of sailors, is celebrated. One festive procession goes through the streets of the town with a statue of St. Michael at its head. The second is by boat along the beaches of Maronti.
Rabbit in Iskitan style, photo by Barbara_coniglio
The cuisine of Ischia, according to the Mediterranean tradition, is replete with seafood and herbs. Here they prepare assorted fisherman's soup, grilled mussels, clams, octopus, and squid. The main island dish is Iskitan-style rabbit (coniglio all’ischitana); rabbit of a special breed, prepared according to an authentic recipe. The animals are raised in earthen pits and fed only grass; the meat is stewed in a ceramic bowl in olive oil. Bucatini pasta is made with rabbit sauce. The local pappardelle, a pasta, is made from porcini mushrooms collected on the slopes of Monte Epomeo.
Popular sweet dishes: baba soaked in limoncello, Sanguinaccio chocolate cream, potato rings with cherry filling - Zeppole San Giuseppe, taralli cookies.
Wine has been produced on the island since ancient Greek times. Famous island brands: white - Biancolella and Forastera, red - Piedirosso. Lemon liqueur Limoncello is popular.
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Thanks to the abundance of hot mineral springs, formed as a result of volcanic activity and overlooking the sea coast, Ischia has become famous as a place of pilgrimage for tourists thirsting for beauty, youth and health.
Along with luxurious balneological resorts and thermal complexes, Ischia known for its mild subtropical climate, citrus and pine groves, golden sandy beaches, rich excursion programs and entertainment for every taste.
Ischia Porto
Ischia Porto is one of two independent districts of the island's capital. Its main attraction is a huge cargo and passenger port, built in the 19th century on the site of a volcanic crater that was extinct thousands of years ago and filled with water. Thanks to the port, life in Ischia Porto is in full swing around the clock: tourists hungry for entertainment fill the numerous local taverns, fish restaurants, bars and clubs. But still the most popular place in the daytime Ischia Porto is the famous beach, which is designated on all maps as English (Spiaggia degli Inglesi).
The main feature of Ischia Porto is a cargo and passenger port
Ischia Ponte
The second independent district of the capital city of Ischia, located just a few bus stops from Ischia Porto. However, unlike its port “brother”, Ischia Ponte It is characterized by peace and tranquility, thanks to which it has become a popular place for families with children among Italians.
The beneficial sea air mixed with the aroma of pine, citrus and chestnut groves, fishing boats moored to the shore and the majestic Aragonese Castle create an atmosphere of peace and relaxation. And from the numerous sandy beaches, gently sloping down to the sea, there is a wonderful view of the neighboring islands of Procida and Vivara, of ancient mills and fishermen's houses.
Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese)
One of the main and most visited attractions of the island is the Aragonese Castle, built in the Middle Ages on the ruins of an ancient fortress from the time of the tyrant Hieron of Syracuse (5th century BC).
The castle (or fortress) is located on a volcanic island, which is solidified magma, with a diameter of about 300 m and a height of up to 113 m. Nature itself took care that the place for the future fortress was reliably protected: the slopes of the volcanic island are steep and rocky, and in some places even completely unexpectedly break off over the abyss of the sea. A fortress wall was built along the perimeter of the island, and the shore can only be reached via a bridge built over a dam, or through a secret passage - a 400-meter tunnel, cut into the rock back in 1441.
The Aragonese castle is located on a volcanic island
In my time Aragonese Castle was a small populated town, and at a time when foreigners tried to conquer the island, the entire population of Ischia took refuge on its territory. Later it was the residence of the bishop. In addition, inside the castle territory there was a convent of the Clarissas, belonging to the Franciscan Order. An unusual cemetery has been preserved on the territory of the monastery, where instead of graves there are stone chairs. When the nuns died, they were not buried, but were seated on chairs covered with small cages.
There is also a torture chamber preserved in the Aragonese Castle, which now houses the Museum. Among its exhibits are all kinds of torture devices used during the interrogation of prisoners and prisoners of war.
When nuns died, they were not buried, but sat on chairs
For lovers of special flavor, there is a small hotel on the territory of the Castle, as well as several restaurants.
Forio
Forio, which is the largest resort town Ischia Islands, located at the foot of the 800-meter dormant volcano Epomeo. The city was once surrounded by 12 watchtowers. Some of them, which have survived to this day, are used today as observation decks and local attractions. Most notable is the 15th-century Torrione Tower, which houses an art gallery and municipal museum. In clear weather, from its height you can clearly see not only the city itself, but also a significant part of the island.
In the Middle Ages, Forio was surrounded by 12 watchtowers
Forio's historic center is well preserved, with its narrow streets, Baroque palaces and medieval churches. At all times, the beauty of this city has attracted creative people who came here for inspiration. Cinema lovers will enjoy visiting the ancient Villa Colombaia, which became a house-museum and became famous thanks to the cult Italian director Luchino Visconti. In total, more than 300 exhibits are collected here, among which the sets for his films, costumes, as well as photographs, awards and other memorabilia of Visconti are of particular interest.
Forio is located at the foot of the dormant volcano Epomeo
IN Forio wonderful sandy beaches with snow-white sand, which will appeal not only to adults, but are also perfect for families with children.
Fans of nightlife will also not be disappointed, since the city has a sufficient number of discos, nightclubs, restaurants and bars.
Volcano Epomeo (Monte Epomeo)
Although Vulcan fell asleep more than 7 centuries ago, and its last eruption was observed in 1302, seismologists insist that it can wake up at any moment, and the consequences of this will be worse than those that occurred as a result of the eruption and the Pompeian disaster. In this scenario, Ischia faces the fate of the legendary Atlantis, since the island will completely go under water.
However, fearless tourists are not afraid of such forecasts, and they boldly climb to the top Epomeo to take photographs for memory. On a clear day in good weather, the 800-meter volcano offers stunning views of the entire island, including the Aragonese castle and the silhouette of the island of Capri on the horizon.
Get to Volcano Epomeo It’s not at all difficult: you need to get to the town of Serrara Fontana, and from there, along a narrow winding path made in the rock, climb to the top on foot. The climb, however, may not be an easy task, as many experience dizziness and increased heart rate, especially in the last tens of vertical meters.
If Epomeo wakes up, the consequences could be worse than the Pompeian disaster
It is curious that enterprising Italians also built a small but profitable business here – on Vulcan: not 50 meters from the top, there is a trattoria selling pizza, pasta and espresso.
And on Epomeo you can visit the small church of St. Nicholas (XIII century). In ancient times, the Basilica played the role of a kind of observation post, from which one could notice the approach of pirates and warn the inhabitants of the island about the danger.
And, of course, the main pride of the island is the thermal springs and mud, which can rejuvenate the face, body and entire body without any medicinal procedures, and also relieve stress and fatigue.
Ischia still remembers how the star couple strolled here - Clark Gable and Elizabeth Taylor. Today it is a favorite vacation spot of Angela Merkel and other equally famous personalities.
The most famous attraction of Forio, a sunny resort with colorful houses, is the Temple of the Madonna of the Protectress, built in the 16th century. However, in addition to it, in the city with magnificent architecture and enchanting landscapes, there are a couple of other places that will interest travelers. Ancient Forio opened up to tourists later than others on the island of Ischia, and since then its special charm, narrow streets, churches and towers have attracted celebrities and ordinary curious tourists.
Tourists can begin their acquaintance with the town’s monuments from the small square of Luca Balsofiore. On it is located Church of Saint Gaetano (San Gaetano), built by local fishermen and sailors in 1655 and well preserved to this day. Initially, the religious building was consecrated in honor of the Virgin of Portosalvo, the guardian of the port. It was decorated with bright paintings depicting fishing boats and sailing ships. However, in 1857 the church was rebuilt and consecrated in the name of Saint Gaetano.
Nowadays, the outwardly inconspicuous church building stands out with its yellow dome, trapezoidal facade and original sundial made at the base of the dome. The interior of the church, decorated in Baroque style, is more impressive than the exterior. In addition, the interior of the temple was recently restored. At the end of the spacious, bright hall with large windows under the vault there is an altar made of multi-colored marble, and on the sides in the niches are hung paintings by local artist Alfonso di Spigna and a wooden sculpture of the Madonna of the Rosary dating back to the 18th century.
You can visit the church any day absolutely free.
Just a few steps from the square on Umberto Corso, a real art gallery awaits tourists - Papal Basilica of Santa Maria di Loreto. It was founded in the fourteenth century by fishermen and sailors and was a small chapel. Over the centuries, the chapel expanded and reached the size of a luxurious temple with an imposing façade raised above street level. To the right of the entrance, the basilica is decorated with a mosaic panel depicting St. Vitus, made by the German graphic artist Eduard Bargeer. Inside the church, tourists will find an amazing altar skillfully created by local craftsmen, panels made of multi-colored Genoese marble, a lavishly decorated ceiling, two tablets, a wooden crucifix by Di Falco, and many paintings.
The church annex, formerly a hospital for the poor, has been home to a museum of religious art for three years. In order to get into it, travelers will need to climb the stairs located to the left of the basilica or enter from Via Roma.
For visits, the Basilica of Santa Maria di Loreto is open daily from 9:00 to 19:00. Entrance to the temple is free.
Another architectural monument is located on Via San Vito, intersecting Via Roma. This is the oldest temple of Forio and a place dedicated to one of the patrons of the commune - Saint Vito. The city's cathedral is named after San Vito . After numerous reconstructions and restorations, little has been preserved from the original appearance of the church.
The interior decoration of the temple is made like many other churches in Forio. The main and side altars are decorated with colored marble, and the church’s collection of paintings consists of paintings by local artists. The most valuable work of the cathedral is the statue of St. Vito made of silver and gilded copper. It was made back in 1787 by Neapolitan jewelers Del Giudice. The peculiarity of this religious building is associated with the status of the Papal Basilica and the coat of arms of John Paul II, which adorns the building.
The temple becomes especially crowded between June 14 and 17, when the whole city celebrates the day of St. Vitus, the patron saint of the island. On other days, crowds of tourists will not interfere with visiting the church. You can look inside any day of the week from 9:00 to 19:00.
Further, taking a walk towards Cape Ponte Soccorso, tourists will come across snow-white temple of Madonna del Soccorso - the main symbol of Forio and one of the most beautiful churches in Italy. The temple is surrounded on three sides by wide belvederes overlooking the sea. Finding yourself near the church in the late afternoon, tourists can witness a wondrous natural phenomenon called "green ray" . You can observe this optical illusion at the moment of sunset, when the sun's disk is almost hidden behind the horizon and a bright green ray of light lingers over the sea for 3-5 seconds. There is even one local legend associated with this phenomenon, according to which people who have seen the green ray of the setting sun will always have good luck in matters of the heart.
On the terrace, travelers can closely examine a ceramic panel of floral motifs alternating with images of saints, five crosses representing monastic burials, and a black stone cross mounted on a brightly decorated pedestal.
Looking inside the small temple, tourists will find a bright room, decorated without any frills. The walls of the church are decorated with 16th-century paintings, and the cornices are decorated with models of fishing boats and sailing ships. The central place in the temple is given to the crucifix of Salvation - an ancient wooden cross dating back to the 18th century. The miraculous crucifix was found by fishermen during a storm at sea and helped them get to shore safe and sound. Since then the cross has been in the church.
The Temple of Madonna del Soccorso is open to the public every day from 8:00 to 12:00 and from 16:00 to 20:00. In the afternoon the church is quite crowded.
Fans of unusual buildings will be impressed by Forio's 12 watchtowers scattered throughout the historical center. In the 9th century they defended the city and the island as a whole from Saracen raids. Now the surviving towers are of interest only to tourists. The most popular of them is Torrione , built in 1480. It is located at Via del Torrione, 30.
The first floor of the tower is dedicated to a gallery, which periodically hosts various exhibitions, and the second floor is occupied by the Giovanni of Malta Museum, where you can get acquainted with the artist’s works - paintings, sculptures.
The tower is open to tourists every day from 9:00 to 20:30.
After exploring all the interesting corners of Forio, tourists can go to the cozy area of Panza, where the vineyards of Casa Dambra grow, there is a village museum and wine cellar, and the thermal spring of Sorgeto, which flows directly into the sea, allows you to swim all year round.
Forio is one of the most enchanting places on the island, distinguished by the special beauty of its landscape and architecture. Churches, towers, palaces and houses in the tufa rock show distinct Mediterranean characteristics, enlivened by the original mixture and interpretation of different architectural styles.
Origin of Forio dates back to the second half of the 8th century. BC, when the Greeks, having settled in the Chitara beach area, built here Temple of Venus of Chitarskaya. It was in this place in 39 BC. a historic meeting took place, during which the peace treaty between the triumvirs Pompey, Octavian and Mark Antony.
Over the centuries, the territory of Forio has been the site of constant conquests and invasions.
In 813 and 847 the city was completely destroyed Saracens, who subsequently settled on its coast. Many of the towers located on the territory of Forio date back to this period. They mainly served as a place of shelter for peasants during raids.
Subsequently, Forio was the prey of the Longobards, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese and famous pirate - Ariarden Barbarossa. In 1543, Barbarossa attacked the island, which once again led to looting and destruction.
To protect the city from constant raids by robbers, an impressive Torrione fortress tower and some watchtowers. To this day, the narrow streets of the town, branching into winding alleys, sometimes leading to a dead end, remind of its medieval origins. There is an assumption that this is where the traditional local name comes from "Saracen Lanes"
XVII century marked by the flourishing of the wine trade with the Roman state, steady demographic growth, as well as the active participation of local residents in the life of the city.
In 1799, a significant part of the local population joined the Parthenopean Republic, for which they were brutally persecuted by the Bourbons.
IN period of national liberation movement of the Italian people for the unification of fragmented Italy (the era of the Risorgimento), the inhabitants of Forio remained faithful to the ideals of their homeland and freedom, following the ancient revolutionary and patriotic tradition of their land.
Since the 50s. Forio becomes a meeting place for famous cultural figures, politicians and international celebrities.
Walking around Forio, you can meet architectural elements of the East, traces of Turkish rule, and approaching the beautiful church of Soccorso, it is not difficult to notice a mixture of Byzantine and Moorish architectural styles.
Like other towns, Forio faces the sea and is protected by Mount Epomeo, but differs from them in the variety of its characteristics. Facing the sea makes its climate mild, especially in the winter months, and good lighting makes life here joyful.
The municipality is characterized by a large number of factions, or localities, both on the plains and in the mountains, both inside and beyond the two headlands that border the central part of the winding coastal strip.
The symbol of Forio is the snow-white temple of “Madonna del Soccorso”(Virgin Mary Helper), rising above the sea. The construction of the temple was completed in the 18th century, erected on the site of a religious building of the 16th century. The original architecture of this church is a mixture of styles from Greco-Byzantine to Moorish and gives it a special charm. On clear days, when the air is calm and clear, from the church square you can see the entire territory of Forio and the amazing sea panorama of the islands of Ventotene, Ponza and the coast all the way to Circeo.
In addition to the opportunity to admire the wonderful views, tourists are attracted to this site by the opportunity to see, if they are lucky, the famous "Green Ray", a peculiar optical effect of the last phase of a sea sunset.
In total there are scattered throughout the historical center of the town 12 watchtowers. The construction of fortifications on the coasts of Ischia to protect against Saracen raids began in the 9th century. Subsequently, starting from the 16th century, these fortifications were equipped with cannons and firearms. The most famous of Forio's towers is Torrione, built in 1480, the outlines of which make the landscape of the port incomparable to any other. This important defensive structure was built on a ledge of tuff rock in a strategic position, close to the coast and in a dominant position above the port.
The round plan of the tower allowed for a full view and was more convenient for tilting the guns. As on the other towers, until the 18th century. there was an observer on Torrion who was supposed to give the alarm when he saw enemy ships and take command of the garrison located on the first floor.
The Torrione Tower marked the beginning of the construction of a number of other towers, which continued until the first decades of the 18th century, both round and square in plan.
All twelve towers provide eloquent evidence of the efforts and determination of the local population in organizing fortifications to protect against pirate raids.
“SIM cards are sewn into elastic bands of panties”
They transport accused and convicted persons in paddy wagons, in special railway carriages and on airplanes. They spend several days in a confined space with several dozen criminals, including maniacs, pedophiles, and repeat offenders. They also extradite criminals from abroad. They are briefly called the Moscow Convoy. On January 20, the Department for Convoying of the Federal Penitentiary Service of Russia in the city of Moscow turned 20 years old.
The head of the unit, Colonel of the Internal Service Andrei ARKHIPOV, told reporters for the first time:
■ how the “prison on wheels” works, why there are no mattresses and pillows in it, and who tried to attack the special car;
■ who is the most difficult to transport and why the guard takes hunting skis with them on the road;
■ where convicts hide prohibited items and whether it is actually possible to rock and topple a paddy wagon;
■ and also how dangerous criminals are transported from abroad and in which country handcuffs are confiscated at the airport.
Colonel of the Internal Service Andrey Arkhipov.
“The fugitive will either be caught or the wolves will eat him.”
The head of the Moscow convoy has the Perm Higher Military Command and Engineering School of Missile Forces and 13 years of service in distant garrisons under his belt. Then he ended up serving in the penitentiary system. At the GUFSIN of Russia in the Perm Territory he was involved in organizing a security service.
“The region was large, the third in the country in terms of the number of colonies,” says Andrei Alexandrovich. “Some could only be reached by logging roads. Just as we left for business trips early on Monday morning, we returned home closer to Friday night. We controlled how the perimeter security of various zones was organized.
Particularly memorable was the maximum security penal colony No. 12, located on the western slope of the Ural Mountains. The perimeter of the colony was about one and a half kilometers, and almost six - the perimeter of the timber exchange. There was mole alloy going on there. Timber was floated along the rivers and the Shirokovskoe reservoir. The sentries in the water sector on the towers were exchanged for boats. I remember several times the convicts hid in the mountains of sawdust, and when they got hungry, they came out on their own. Someone was running away. And this is the north of the Perm region, the distances are enormous. There is only one road from forest institutions. Everyone knew that the fugitive would either be caught or wolves would eat him...
In 2004, Andrei Aleksandrovich Arkhipov was offered a transfer to the capital - he became deputy head of the Security Directorate of the Federal Penitentiary Service of Russia for the city of Moscow.
— Previously, the same employees stood at posts both in the buildings and on the towers. After three convicts sentenced to life in prison escaped from pre-trial detention center No. 2 in 2001 by breaking an underground passage with aluminum spoons, it was decided to separate the “regime” and “security.” Detention centers began to be guarded by separate units. Funds were allocated for engineering and technical security equipment. Modern fences and sensors appeared, and video cameras were installed along the perimeter so that there were no “dead zones.” I tried to implement my work experience in Perm in Moscow. At that time there were six pre-trial detention centers in the capital; then, after the hostage-taking in 2006 in pre-trial detention center No. 9 in Kapotnya, which belongs to the Federal Penitentiary Service of Russia in the Moscow region, this facility was handed over to us.
When loading convicts into special transport, canine teams are present.
— How did it happen that four years later you headed the capital’s Convoy Administration?
— Security and convoy always worked side by side. In 2010, the previous boss retired and I was offered the position. Previously, the Internal Troops were responsible for escorting. In 1998, a presidential decree was issued - these powers were transferred to the Convoy Administration and transferred to the jurisdiction of the penal system.
— What is a carriage designed for transporting convicts?
— This is an analogue of a passenger carriage, it is painted in the same colors. But one wall of the special car is blank; there are windows only on the corridor side. Instead of a compartment there are 8-9 cameras with bars. A sentry walks along the corridor around the clock. Just like in pre-trial detention centers, convicts are housed depending on their regime. First-time convicts and repeat offenders are kept in different cells; women, teenagers, foreigners, and former law enforcement officers are housed separately.
— What is the maximum load? And why aren’t convicts provided with pillows and mattresses on the road?
— Now the standards have been revised, we carry about 60 people. Convicts travel at the general carriage rate, so there are no mattresses or sheets in the cells. The longest route lasts two and a half days, such as to Chelyabinsk. The convict is then transferred to the next stage. But some of the convicts are released after a few hours. Someone picks up on the road and travels for one day. In five days, on a round trip route, we transport about 300 people.
— Is it true that, for security reasons, prisoners are never told in advance where they are being taken?
“They don’t really talk about it.” But somehow they find out about it. Many people are told about their route by lawyers. It happened that during searches of convicts in detention centers they even found sheets with notes on the schedule of special cars. But they all roughly know the order of distribution among the colonies. Nowadays, most convicts go to serve their sentences at their place of residence.
— What is included in the dry rations that are given to convicts on the road?
— Instant soups and cereals, biscuits, tea, sugar. We give them boiling water three times a day.
— Are prisoners allowed to smoke in the special car?
- No. Somewhere in the regions, it happened that convicts rebelled, opened their veins... We teach our employees how to negotiate. It's no longer the time to run around the carriage with sticks. Now they very quickly calm down at the sight of the video recorder that every sentry on duty is equipped with. As soon as they start making noise, our employees announce to them: “Your actions are being recorded, they are illegal.” And they immediately calm down, realizing that there is video recording - this, in turn, may lead to penalties and affect parole.
— How is selection for your unit carried out? What are the requirements for future guards?
- They must be psychologically stable, because they have to serve in isolation from the unit, in a limited space - in paddy wagons and special railway cars. And this is difficult. You need to have a certain nervous system. When they shout at you, you need to remain calm, address the convicted person as “you” and explain the illegality of his actions. And each of our charges has its own character, its own trouble. We transport both mentally ill people and tuberculosis patients. Modern carriages have a special chamber with ionizers. There is separate ventilation. But these convicts, like everyone else, are taken to the toilet one by one upon request. A special group is being created for this purpose. Everything is under control. The toilet door has a window with a curtain on the outside.
Photo: press service of the Federal Penitentiary Service for Moscow
“SIM cards are sewn into elastic bands of panties”
Before the transfer, all prisoners and their personal belongings are thoroughly searched. It happens that they hide a cell phone in a bottle of foam in a secret compartment, a charger in the sole of house slippers, and sew shivs and nylon nooses into the lining of clothes. They are trying to smuggle tattoo needles inside cotton swabs...
— What other tricks do prisoners and their relatives go to in order to hide prohibited items?
“On the way, we confiscate matches from the convicts, and upon arrival at the place, we return them. Once they showed me a pair of sneakers whose soles were covered in matches. At the same time, their edges were barely visible on the surface. And at first glance it seemed that it was a porous sole, and that’s all! It is also necessary to confiscate money, sharpened spoons, which convicts use as knives, as well as SIM cards, which craftsmen manage to sew into elastic bands of panties. Fortunately, all isolation wards now have X-ray machines. We seize about 250 SIM cards per year.
— Has it ever happened that convicts died while being escorted?
— There have been such cases. In this case, the transport police are immediately called, all this is recorded. The corpse surrenders. There were also suicides. I remember that either a Korean or a Chinese hanged himself with a belt that he tied to the bars...
In the special car, instead of a compartment, there are cells with bars.
— There are no female employees in the convoy, but you are transporting female criminals. There are probably pregnant women among the “special passengers.” Are you ready to give birth on the road?..
— Pregnant women with a term of more than 6 months are escorted only when accompanied by a physician. Most often we transport them over short distances, for example, from Moscow to Mozhaisk, where the women’s colony is located. It happened that they took us to Ivanovo. Even if one of them goes into labor, the chief of guard will immediately call a team of doctors or an ambulance to the nearest station.
— In October 1981, in a special car that was heading to the Western Urals, convicts used two shoe knives handed over from the outside to dig through the lower casing of the car, break through the bottom and escape. Were there similar escapes in our time?
- No, we didn’t have any escapes from special cars. But when boarding the carriage, attempts were made to escape. There was also an attack on the carriage. The emergency occurred near Chelyabinsk, in Kropachevo, when the train was at the station. We were transporting a convicted young man. His friends, “taking him to their chests,” decided to talk to their friend and began to climb onto the windows of the special car. The glass was broken. The guard had to shoot in the air. The boy immediately ran away. But then they were all detained. There was a locomotive on the adjacent tracks, the camera on it was directed forward, all the actions of the “lads” were recorded.
— They say that a guard in winter always takes several pairs of hunting skis with him on the road...
— In case of escape of convicts from the guard, a pursuit group is appointed. Previously, our employees had military skis with them, but now we have purchased snowshoes, hunting skis - wide and short - skis. It is difficult to imagine that someone will be able to escape from a modern carriage. But we still carry skis with us.
— Is it true that convicts can come to an agreement, rock the carriage and even throw it to the ground? He is, as a rule, the last one in the lineup.
- He can be the first on the train. I think that the scenario you described is from the category of tales. Nowadays you can’t rock a modern paddy wagon based on KamAZ, let alone a railway carriage!
— Were there any cases of attack on a special vehicle? Did any of the accomplices try to free the escorts from custody?
— In the 90s there were certain difficulties. Now no one is brazenly interfering, or deliberately pinching the paddy wagon with cars on both sides. This is the lot of filmmakers. If we are transporting some dangerous criminals, we are accompanied by special forces. All paddy wagons are equipped with video surveillance - both internal and external. The movement of the special vehicle is tracked using the GLONASS system. All this is displayed on the monitor of the duty officer in the unit. At any moment he is ready to contact the guard commander or call a rapid response team.
— On August 1, 2017, members of the “GTA gang” tried to escape from the Moscow Regional Court building. As a result of the shootout, three of them were killed. How did it happen that five defendants ended up in the same elevator with two guards - a man and a woman?
“I would not like to evaluate the actions of police officers. This incident is under investigation. We do not engage in legal escort. True, at one time our division was involved in supporting the entire YUKOS group. Perhaps because, during the reform of the Internal Troops, the most experienced employees of the battalion of the 32nd separate brigade of the Moscow District of the Internal Troops of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia ended up in our Convoy Directorate. We also escorted the “night governor” of St. Petersburg, Vladimir Barsukov (Kumarin).
Photo: press service of the Federal Penitentiary Service for Moscow
“They flew after the gang leader Gagiev three times”
— You also transport accused and convicted persons on airplanes. There are no bars or cameras there. How does air convoy work?
— We fly on airplanes with our charges for forensic investigative actions. We transport women with children under escort by air if traveling by train requires more than a day. We fly, in particular, to the Far East. We transport one or two convicts on civilian flights, and sometimes from Kaliningrad we accompany 5-6 people.
— On August 19, 1990, 15 criminals hijacked a Tu-154 plane flying from Neryungri to Yakutsk in order to hijack it with hostages to Pakistan...
— Those were the wild 90s. It is noteworthy that the prisoners had only three pairs of handcuffs. Today this is impossible. Our colleagues from the escort service of the Federal Penitentiary Service of Russia in the Krasnoyarsk Territory, for example, have a planned route to Norilsk. You can't get to the polar city by rail. For a big stage they rent an entire plane. They preliminarily practice their actions when seating convicts on a Yak-42 dummy simulator. They have an old decommissioned plane right on the parade ground, as well as a special carriage. All actions of the convoy were worked out to the point of automaticity.
— Your department is the only one in Russia involved in the extradition of detainees from abroad. How does this happen?
“The person is brought to the police station, searched, examined, and prepared for the flight. An Interpol officer and a consul are present. Then it is handed over to our employees. An employee of the Federal Penitentiary Service always flies together with the convoy. Everyone is in civilian clothes.
When we take a person onto a plane, he is handcuffed to the guard with one hand. We try not to make it obvious. We throw a jacket or raincoat over the handcuffs. We are seated in the back rows of the plane. We fly on regular civilian flights. And we try not to cause inconvenience to other passengers.
— Are flight attendants warned in advance that there will be a passenger on board under escort?
“Both the ship’s commander and the crew of flight attendants know about this. They help us in every possible way. For example, when we take an extradited person to the toilet, we ask the flight attendants to block the passage for this time. For safety reasons, the door to the toilet stall remains slightly open. When we extradite women, the door to the toilet is allowed to be closed. We escort women without handcuffs.
— When the in-flight meals are served, does your client remain in handcuffs?
“He remains handcuffed throughout the entire flight.” He eats in them. Nobody spoon feeds him.
- How do they behave?
- Differently. It happens that we take away a person who is there under house arrest. Some of them arrive at the airport on their own. There are no difficulties with them. Someone doesn’t want to be extradited, they do everything possible so that they don’t put him on the plane, they start screaming and making noise. The lawyer tells him what he needs to do to be denied a flight...
— How do you act in this case?
— We take him by the arms and lead him into the salon. Even when we accept a person, we explain that he will fly away in any case. They scream and make noise exactly until the moment the plane takes off. Then they instantly calm down. In extreme cases, we have special belts with us, with the help of which we fasten our hands to the belt. And the person becomes immobilized. But lately everything has been calm.
— How do you select employees for this mission?
“The guards must be strong and large, have an impressive appearance, so that the one we are extraditing does not even have the thought of resisting.” I remember in the army I had a captain I knew, whose height was over two meters. While training ensigns, he jokingly said: “I won’t beat you. I will fall on you"...
I have about 20 people flying. They have 60-70 guards a year, the rest of the time they are engaged in regular service.
It is impossible to rock a modern paddy wagon and knock it over.
— Are the air guards armed?
- No. Weapons are still required to be handed over to the ship's commander. It is placed in a special safe. Therefore, it makes no sense to take it with you. Abroad, the police take the person to the plane itself, and upon landing he is met by an armed escort.
—Who most often has to be extradited?
— The bulk are scammers who are accused of economic crimes. At one time, they brought a lot of “authorities” from Spain and extradited them in batches. Now we carry a lot of militants left over from the military campaigns in Chechnya. A lot of them settled in Germany. Now they are actively dealing with refugees from Africa, and Chechen militants have begun to get caught in the mix. There are no problems with their extradition. They respect strength.
— Which famous people have had to be extradited recently?
— On January 3, the former Minister of Finance of the Moscow Region Alexei Kuznetsov was brought to Moscow, who is accused of embezzling 14 billion rubles from the Moscow Region budget. The retired official was arrested in absentia back in 2011. They tried to extradite him for five years. And we managed to do this on New Year’s Day. On January 1, our employees flew out to pick him up, and the third one was brought to Moscow.
Last year, Aslan Gagiev, who is credited with 60 murders, was transported from Austria. He led a gang that was engaged in contract killings. We flew after him three times. His lawyer filed one complaint after another. In particular, he provided a certificate stating that Gagiev had developed a rare form of aerophobia during his stay in an Austrian prison. And he supposedly may not survive the flight to Russia. But then he was extradited. Arrived safe and sound. We also delivered from Italy the former head of Rosgranitsa Dmitry Bezdelov, who was suspected of large-scale theft.
— Are the convoys allowed to talk with their charges?
- They communicate. The one we are transporting usually tells his story. This conversation calms the person down. Everyone is interested in the flight going smoothly.
— Which distant countries have you ever flown to?
— They brought people from Chile, Ecuador, South Africa, India, Peru. Once, for technical reasons, a plane landed in the northeast of South America, in Guiana, and our employees had to spend a day in a hotel in the same room as a swindler.
Our work has its own characteristics. For example, we know that someone who has been to Israel cannot be sent to the Arab world. And vice versa. They have a corresponding stamp in their passport and may not be allowed through.
And once in the United Arab Emirates, handcuffs were taken from our employee’s luggage. We were able to return them only after six months. Diplomats were involved, and there was a long correspondence. They are not allowed to import handcuffs, that’s all! In that case, the convoy had to use plastic handcuffs with zip ties.
— How much do guards earn on average?
— From 30 thousand rubles. Chiefs of guards - from 45 to 50. As you can see, not a lot for such intense work. But our management is staffed. There are practically no vacancies, but people still quit and places become vacant. Candidates come constantly. I talk to everyone personally. I am always alarmed if a person tries to transfer to us from some colony, citing the fact that it is difficult to work there. Our work is even more difficult. A psychologist works with each applicant. We check it against all accounting databases of the Central Internal Affairs Directorate and the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Mostly, newcomers are brought in by management employees who are ready to vouch for them in writing.
— The convoy has long working hours, multi-day business trips, stress, lack of sleep. Is there anything positive about this work?
— I would say stability. We have created a good schedule for our employees, a mini-shift. They work for two days and rest for six. It is clear that we do not always adhere to this schedule; employees are often in classes. Almost all of us are from neighboring regions: Tula, Vladimir, Ivanovo, Ryazan regions. They still have time to do housework. I also noticed: the more complex and intense the work, the more creative individuals there are among the employees. Our guys write poetry, sing beautifully, improvise on various musical instruments... I, in turn, take my soul to the dacha. But at the same time, my phone is on 24 hours a day. They can call me at any time from any city, from any carriage.