What to bring from Samos Island. Samos Island. The heart of Ionian culture. The resort that produces the world's best nutmeg

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Samos Island belongs to the Eastern Sporades archipelago and is considered one of the largest islands of the Aegean Sea. This resort is clearly visible on the tourist map and is reputed to be an excellent place for a beach holiday. It best combines the classic beach program with an abundance of exciting excursions, swimming in the purest sea depths and water sports.

Peculiarities

The rich history of the island is embodied here in the presence of an impressive number of ancient buildings and unique monuments that represent the cultural heritage of the country and are of great interest to numerous tourists. At one time, Samos was considered the center of Ionian culture and was the birthplace of such famous philosophers of the ancient world as Pythagoras, Melissa of Samos and Epicurus. For centuries, the lands of the island have been distinguished by their rare fertile qualities, thanks to which agriculture has always successfully developed here, and locally produced natural Muscat wines have long been known far beyond the borders of Greece. Samos is also famous for its magnificent natural landscapes, which delight even experienced travelers. The island has a well-developed infrastructure, there are comfortable hotels for every taste, cozy restaurants and entertainment venues.

general information

The area of ​​Samos is very significant and amounts to more than 477 square meters. km, with a population of about 35 thousand people. Local time lags behind Moscow by 1 hour in winter and is the same in summer. Time zone UTC+2 and UTC+3 in the summer. Official website www.samos.gr.

A brief excursion into history

The first settlements appeared on the island in the 3rd millennium BC and, according to legend, the goddess Hera was born here, whose cult arose in these places back in the era of the Minoan and Mycenaean civilizations. Samos reached significant prosperity during the reign of Polycrates, in the 500s BC, when the tyrant, who did not want to share power with his two brothers, decided to get rid of both and rule the island alone. During his reign, many exquisite structures were built here, and the fame of the wealth and prosperity of this landmass then spread throughout the entire continent. In different centuries, Samos was under the rule of the Romans, Genoese, Byzantines, and Greeks. Each of these nationalities left its mark on its cultural heritage, as evidenced today by numerous fragments of ancient buildings. In 1913, the island joined Greece, eventually becoming a popular tourist destination.

Climate

The mild Mediterranean climate prevailing at the resort contributes to a pleasant pastime almost throughout the year. Winter here is warm, albeit rainy, with an average air temperature of about +15 degrees. In summer, the thermometer regularly goes beyond +30, but the heat is easily tolerated due to the refreshing sea breeze constantly blowing from the sea. The swimming season begins here in May and ends only in October.

How to get there

Samos has its own airport and receives flights from many European cities, but this does not apply to Russian territory, so the best option seems to be flying from Athens on local airlines. Expensive, but fast. The cities of Samos and Karlovasi have passenger ports providing ferry service to several Greek islands of the Aegean Sea.

Transport

The most convenient way to travel within the resort is by taxi or rented car.

Main cities

The capital of the island is the city of the same name, Samos, also known as Vathi. In addition to it, the important sea passenger port of Karlovasi, the ancient capital of Pythagorio, next to which there is a local airport, the historical village of Ireon and the large settlement of Marathokampos, located on the mountain slopes of Kerkis, stand out. In addition to the listed places, there are a number of tiny settlements on the island, with a population of several hundred people.

Beaches

The coastline of Samos has a pebbly surface, and most of the beaches are located in cozy bays, where the water remains warm for many months. A lot of comfortable areas are located in the area of ​​the tourist village of Kokkari, and the best beach on the island is considered to be Clima, located in close proximity to the town of Poseidonio. Also noteworthy are the beaches in the areas of Lemonaki, Tsamadu and Paleokastro, near Kerveli Bay. In addition to equipped areas, Samos also has wild beaches, ideal for romantic couples and people who prefer to sunbathe alone. The resort area of ​​Murtia is very popular among holidaymakers.

Attractions and entertainment

The main historical centers of the island are the cities of Samos and Pythagorio. According to Herodotus, even during the reign of Polycrates, the Samian aqueduct was built within the island capital, which is a long tunnel created to supply the city with water, and has survived to this day. On the Pythagorio embankment, a monument to the legendary Pythagoras attracts attention, and a little higher, in the mountains, there is a cave of the same name, which keeps many secrets and mysteries in its depths. Not far from it lie the ruins of the once majestic palace of Anthony and Cleopatra.

Inquisitive tourists can discover a lot of interesting facts about the history of these places in the halls of the Pythagorio Archaeological Museum. In addition, museums are present in Samos, Karlovasi and Mytilene. Connoisseurs of ancient religious architecture should take a pilgrimage tour to the main monasteries of the island, including the monastery of Spilianis, lost among the mountain peaks near Pythagorio, the monasteries of Megali and Timiou Stavrou, the monastery of the Life-giving Spring of Zoodohas Pigi near the capital Samos, and the monastery of Agia Zoni.

Kitchen

The island's culinary world is extremely diverse. In local restaurants, cafes and snack bars, visitors can taste a wide variety of dishes to suit every taste, from dairy products and pickled cheeses of the highest quality, to stuffed tomatoes and traditional Greek salad. Of course, you cannot ignore the magnificent Muscat wines and delicious fruits grown under the bright Greek sun.

Shopping

In shops and retail stalls, guests have the opportunity to purchase a wide variety of goods from almost all directions. The prices here cannot be called low, but the quality of the products also meets the highest expectations.

Samos is one of the most famous and visited island resorts, fully meeting the expectations of most vacationers. All conditions for a comfortable pastime have been created here, and the mild climate and stunningly beautiful landscapes only add positive emotions.

In the Aegean Sea. It is one of the largest and most fertile islands of the Aegean Sea. Samos is popular among lovers of a quiet, secluded holiday: magnificent beaches, rich ancient heritage, mountain villages and monasteries, hiking in the mountains. The highest point of the island is the peak of the Kerkis massif with a height of 1434 m.

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How to get there

The flight Moscow - Athens takes 3.5 hours, the domestic flight to Samos takes another 1 hour. In addition, charter flights from May to October connect it with many European cities. There are two cargo and passenger ports on Samos - in the capital of the same name and the city of Karlovasi; in addition, ferries operate from the islands of Piraeus, Ikaria, Cyclades and Dodecanese.

To move around the island on your own, you will need a map, which you can pick up right at the Samos airport at the information desk. The card will also be issued free of charge when renting a car. You can buy it at any kiosk.

Search for flights to Athens (closest airport to Samos)

Weather in Samos

The climate in Samos is typical Mediterranean: mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. On average, in summer the air temperature reaches +30...+35°C. Nevertheless, it is very easy to breathe here thanks to the constantly blowing winds. In winter, the thermometer rarely drops below +15 °C, and it is quite rainy.

Beaches of Samos

There are many beaches on Samos, they are pebbly and located in picturesque bays. Everywhere you can rent umbrellas and sunbeds (3-5 EUR per day per person). Each beach has a small tavern, cafe, and bar with drinks. Prices on the page are as of November 2018.

• The best beach in Samos is Clima, near the town of Poseidonio.
• The least crowded and cleanest beach in Samos is the two-kilometer beach at Tsamadou.
• For a holiday with small children, the beach of Kerveli Bay near the settlement of Paleokastro is ideal: a gentle entrance to the sea and well-warmed water right next to the shore.
• The coolest water is on the beach near the town of Votsalakia (southwest of the island on the way to the caves of Pythagoras).
• There are good beaches near the tourist village of Kokkari and the town of Lemonaki.

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Cuisine and wines

Hippocrates and Galen mentioned Samian wine in their works. Natural Muscat wine has been the main export product of the island since ancient times. It also produces olive oil, dairy products, honey, ceramics, wooden products, grows olives and citrus fruits, and preserves traditional wooden small shipbuilding.

In addition to wine, Samos is famous for its dairy products of the highest quality (primarily yoghurts and pickled cheeses (brynza)).

The local Muscat wine “Vafi” is widely known outside of Greece.

The most popular dishes on the island are moussaka (stewed eggplant and other vegetables), stuffed tomatoes and peppers, as well as a traditional Greek salad of coarsely chopped vegetables with olive oil and the national creamy feta cheese. Seafood dishes are very popular - sea bream, red mullet, shrimp, octopus, squid, etc. are most often prepared.

Lunch in a tavern costs on average 10-15 EUR, dinner - 15-25 EUR with wine per person. The cheapest dish costs 3-6 EUR, the most expensive dish (as a rule, it includes fish and seafood) costs 13-15 EUR.

Popular hotels in Samos

Entertainment and attractions of Samos

The main administrative, cultural and historical centers of the island are its main city of Samos and the small town of Pythagorio - the ancient capital of the island, where historical attractions are concentrated.

As shown by archaeological finds near Pythagorio, people settled on Samos in the 3rd millennium BC. e. Since the times of the Minoan (27-14 centuries BC) and Mycenaean (16-11 centuries BC) civilizations, the cult of the goddess Hera, who was allegedly born on this island, arose on the island. Around 720 BC e. On the ruins of an ancient temple of prehistoric times, the Temple of Hera was erected, which became one of the wonders of the world and has partially survived to this day.

Around 538 BC e. Extensive construction took place on the island: Samos harbor was expanded and protected by a large breakwater dam; they built the so-called Samos aqueduct - the first water supply system to supply the city with clean water; To replace the one that had burned down, the temple and sanctuary of Hera were expanded and decorated in a new way. Herodotus writes in his book that these are the three wonders of the world: an aqueduct in the form of a tunnel, a dam in the port on the island and the temple of the goddess Hera.

In Pythagorio itself, in the center of the embankment, there is a monument to the famous mathematician. And in the mountains above the city there is a cave of Pythagoras, which can only be reached along a steep slope on foot. In the suburbs, lovers of antiquity can also see the picturesque ruins of the palace of Anthony and Cleopatra.

You can learn about the history of these places in the famous archaeological museum of Pythagorio, as well as in the museums of Samos and Karlovasi. In the settlement of Mytilene there is a paleontological museum.

Another symbol of the island and its key attraction is the column in the open-air archaeological museum near Ireon (2-3 km from the airport). Her images adorn all tourist brochures in the region.

Monasteries of Samos

There are many monasteries preserved on the island of Samos. The Spiliani Monastery is located in the mountains above Pythagorio, offering fantastic views of the surrounding area. It is famous primarily for the Church of Our Lady in a natural cave.

In the area of ​​the mountain village of Kumaradi there are two more monasteries: Megali and Timiu Stavrou (Holy Cross). These are places of pilgrimage for believers not only from all over Greece.

12 km from the city of Samos is the monastery of Zoodohas Pigi (Life-giving Source). Its site offers stunning views of the coast and the resort area of ​​Murtia. On the way to it there is another small monastery - Agya Zoni - with a functioning church. All these monasteries are marked on the map, and the road to them can be found by following the signs.

The luxurious and seductive island of Samos was once part of Asia Minor, but the cataclysms of the Ice Age tore the island away from Mount Michele, which remained on the Turkish coast. As a result, a strait 2500 meters wide was formed. Nowhere in the Aegean Sea comes so close, except Kastellorizon, of course. Now it’s hard to believe, but Samos was once the richest island in the Aegean Sea, and under the tyrant Polycrates, an intellectual circle flourished on the island, the importance of which is evidenced by such names as Epicurus, Pythagoras, Aristarchus, Aesop - all of these were Samians.

The star of Samos began to set when the classical ones began to rise, but under Byzantium Samos began to rise again: the empire established the island as its administrative division. By the end of the 15th century, the Genoese abandoned the island to the mercy of pirates, and Samos soon became depopulated and remained almost uninhabited until 1562, when an Ottoman admiral received permission from the Sultan to repopulate the island with Orthodox Greeks, for which volunteer settlers were brought from all over the empire.

So now the population on the island is very heterogeneous, and this largely explains the fact that the islanders do not really understand who they are, and are not particularly interested in it, and if we can talk about any culture, it is poor and superficial. The villages are named either by clan names (and coincide with the surnames of most villagers), or by the area where the founders came from. There is no hope of hearing any special Samian music or seeing a native dance or local costume, and very little originality in cooking or house building.

What the Samians lacked in ancient roots they made up for to some extent with the desperate bravery they showed in the 1820s War of Independence, but despite all their exploits, including the sinking of the Turkish fleet and the extermination of the Ottoman punitive forces invading Samos, the Great Powers in 1830 The island was returned to the Sublime Porte, however, a semi-autonomous status was supposed to sweeten the pill: direct power on the island was transferred to an appointed Christian prince.

This period - among the islanders it is known as "Jimonia" (Hegemony) - was marked by some economic revival and even an increase in prosperity due to the trade in hemp and (especially) tobacco. But reunification with Greece in 1912, the atrocities of the occupiers in World War II and mass emigration stopped the emerging revival. Only tourism, which began to develop in the 1980s, brought any improvements. Today's Samian economy relies on the package tourism industry.

Kokkari and the coasts in the southeast and southwest are essentially given over to vacationers, although the hillier northeast of the island still retains something of its pristine grandeur. The clientele is mainly family, not very inclined to change places, comes mostly from Scandinavia, and, but every year the share of British, Belgians and even Czechs and Slovaks is growing. There is no official camping on such a large island, the nightlife lags behind that of the South Sporadic or Cycladic ones for ages. Self-catering villas are preferred to rent to clients over forty and older.

Those areas that are more developed and suffer the most from repeated forest fires, which is not surprising, the fire in July 2000 destroyed 20% of the forests and groves of Samos, plus more than 90 residential buildings, and if we take into account other fires since 1987, then Samos will be half burned out. It will take half a century to restore the trees, and the tourism market is unable to compensate for the damage suffered. Volunteers are now stationed at water-filled tankers in high-risk areas, but this appears to be the case when a lock is placed on a stable door after the horse has been released.

Arrival and movement around the island of Samos

Samos Airport, which expanded in 2003 (5 car rental points, no ATM), is located 14 kilometers southwest of the city of Samos of the same name and 3 kilometers west of Pythagorion. There are no buses to the airport, taxi prices are posted on conspicuous posters, but during high season taxis must be booked several hours in advance. Ferries land at three ports: Karlovasi in the west, Samos and Pythagorion in the east, making the island a major starting point for travel in any direction.

All ferries plying between Piraeus and Samos call at both Karlovasi and the city of Samos, as does the local boat "Samos Spirit", connecting Samos with the islands of Fourni and. The city of Samos is also visited by ships plying between Northern Greece and the Southern Sporades and visiting almost all the islands along the way, as well as once a week by the Agoudimos ferry, as well as ships from Kusadasi. Ferries from as far south as the Southern Sporades call at Pythagorion four times a week; all hydrofoil ships going to, from and making forays to Fourni and southern Ikaria are assigned to this port.

The bus terminuses at Pythagorion and Samos Town are just a short walk from the ferry piers. In Karlovasi, you will have to travel 3 kilometers from the port to the city on your own. KTEL has established an excellent bus service on the routes Pythagorion-Samos and Samos-Kokkari-Karlovasi, but this is on weekdays, and on weekends buses run poorly both in the named and in all other directions. But everywhere they offer cars and scooters for rent, so it’s not difficult to rent a vehicle at a very reasonable price at any time of the year.

The busiest traffic is south of the city of Samos on the roads leading to Pythagorion, the first resort of the island, renamed in 1955 in honor of the famous native of Samos, the ancient mathematician, thinker and mystic Pythagoras. Before this, the town was called Tigani (Greek translation of “frying pan”) - and having visited Pythagorion at the height of summer, you will understand why. In the 6th century BC, under the tyrant Polycrates, this was the capital, so from time to time excavations are started in the area, which is why the growing settlement is forced to crawl uphill and to the northeast.

In the heart of the village are mansions with thick walls, surrounding a small harbor with an antique polycratic pier and jetty, but now it is almost completely given over to pleasure boats and expensive cocktail bars. The best-preserved fortress on Samos is the 19th-century pyrgos (tower), which dominates the city and the coast. The fortification was erected by the local leader Lykourgos Logothetis, who, with the assistance of a certain “Kapetan Stamatis” and Admiral Canaris of Psarsky, in the summer of 1824, chalked up a number of victories over the Turks. The final battle took place on the Transfiguration (August 6), and the church inside the fortress walls was consecrated in honor of the Transfiguration.

A new archaeological museum was supposed to open at the beginning of the road to. The collection contains finds from archaeologists who excavated the ancient city. Among other ancient monuments, the boring Roman baths (therms) stand out - look out for the sign "Thermai" - 400 meters west of the village (Tuesday-Sunday 8:45-14:30; free) and the much more interesting Efpalino tunnel (Tuesday -Sunday 8:45-14:15; 4 €) - an aqueduct 1040 meters long, cut through the mountain north of Pythagorion by order of Polycrates. To get to the tunnel, find a path with appropriate signs on the western edge of the village near the seaside boulevard and in 20 minutes it will lead you to the access road.

Inspecting this one boils down to a walk along the road, carved into the rock to remove rock and debris from the water tunnel, which is located much lower. The most dangerous places (threatening to fall and the like) are fenced off with bars, and only the first 650 meters are illuminated. Teams of slave builders began to punch a tunnel from opposite sides of the mountain, but when the tunnellers met inside the mountain, the horizontal deviation of the two pits did not exceed 8 meters, and the vertical error turned out to be zero. This honors not only the engineers of that distant era, but also those who directly supervised the actions of the slaves.

• Useful information about the Pythagorion resort

The bus stop is west of the Lykourgu-Logotheti intersection and the road to Samos. The taxi park is at the end of Lykourgu-Logotheti, which is closer to the harbor. On the same street there are several ATMs installed in banks, as well as a post office. The plain to the west is good for cycling, and there are plenty of cyclists on Samos, but if you want to get hold of a scooter, there are several points at your service on the same Logotheti. The street is also dotted with places that rent out any kind of cars, although there is nowhere to park a car in Pythagorion, and it is impossible.

So, use the site near the fortress, if you don’t want to pay a fee, which is really overpriced, so behind the city beach, to the west, you can park your car completely free of charge. The owners of accommodation for visitors greet all arriving ferries and hydrofoils and sometimes offer such a price that it’s too good to be true, but they don’t take money for viewings, right? The tourist information kiosk (June-September daily 8:30-21:30) on the main Lykourgu-Logotheti highway also helps in finding shelter.

At the quiet, seaward end of the Pytagora odos, south of Lykourgu-Logotheti, the rather modest Tsambika awaits guests, while more amenities are found at the Dora Hotel, a block to the west, and there are two guesthouses there that might be worth checking out first. Studios Galini (winter), in a quiet hillside quarter north of Piazza Irinis, offers high-quality accommodation with ceiling fans, balconies and helpful, English-speaking staff. The restaurant business in Pythagorion can lead to despair due to the mixture of native and foreign tendencies.

Situated at the northern end of the pier, slightly inland, Dolichi (dinner only) is worth a visit, with high-quality Greek and Mediterranean cuisine set up like an art gallery. Remataki underwent a complete renovation of both its premises and menu in 2007. Cheap (for Pintagorion) and charming, Maritsa is the only one located near the Church of the Transfiguration. Viva at the pier offers pizza and pasta at low prices.

But the best of the restaurants is located inland from the western car park, Lemonies, with homemade mayirefta and fries at reasonable prices. Nightlife takes place in clubs such as Mythos on the main square and La Nuit or Sail In on the promenade, but the standout is Amadeus (closed on Mondays) near the post office with live Greek music. The Rex outdoor cinema is open all year round, 7 kilometers to the north-west, showing new (first-release) films. The summer branch on the far side of the village is much more fun: during the breaks between sessions they hand out free loukoumades donuts.

• Neighborhood of Pythagorion

The main local beach stretches several kilometers west of the Logothetis fortress, and somewhere in the middle it reaches the airfield runway, surrounded by a bunch of faceless hotels - this cluster is called Potokaki. And just before the turn to the center of the beach, the luxurious Dorissa Wau complex swung wide, including, in particular, a painstakingly reproduced, but still fake village - this is what archaeologists of future centuries will probably be puzzled by. Not a single building - they are connected by streets with signs on which the names are written out - is similar to the other, and there is even a village square with an (expensive) cafe.

Although there are a lot of people, the local sand and pebble beach is well looked after, and the water is clean. If you want privacy, move further to the end of the road. Under the layers of sedimentary deposits and under the modern highway covering them on top there is the Sacred Way, which saw solemn processions from the ancient city to Heraion, a powerful structure that served the cult of the Mother Goddess (daily July-August 8:00-19:00; September-June 8:30 -15:00). Tourist literature pours out superlatives of laudatory epithets, inviting people to this sanctuary, which turns out to be not so huge: one column and a scattering of foundations have survived.

True, when you pass through the fence, you will still feel the former grandeur of the temple, especially since the construction of the sanctuary was not completed due to the untimely death of Polycrates at the hands of the Persians. The location for the construction site could not have been better chosen - near the mouth of the now flowing stream Imvrassos, where, according to legend, Hera was born and where she met Zeus, and in the far corner of the fenced area you can look at a large section of exposed cobblestones of the Sacred Way. The modern resort of Ireon, located nearby, is difficult to describe because of its impersonality: cells of buildings behind the beach, the pebbles are rough, and the water is cold due to the flowing Imvrassos.

And yet this place has enough passionate fans, so the owners of colorful rooms and small hotels are thriving. To be fair, it must be said that from all such shelters, as a rule, the sea is visible. Another temptation: several taverns on the shore, however, if you want to eat better, we advise you to follow the example of the locals, and they go away from the sea, where the Angyra lake is famous for its unimaginable cleanliness and seafood. Ioannis Psaras, located nearby, serves only fish, but fresh fish from its own catch.

Southern part of Samos island

Since a regular bus circles the island once or twice a day, getting to the villages in the south of Samos by public transport is difficult. About 5 kilometers west of Chora, a well-marked dirt road leads up the mountain and straight to Mavradzei - this is the so-called “potters’ village” (there are two of them on Samos), which lost 49 of its houses in a fire in 2000. The few surviving pottery workshops sculpt, for the most part, “Pythagorean bowls” (Kupa tou Pitagora): the sage supposedly came up with a special shape for the vessel - if the bowl is suddenly filled above the brim, then the excess liquid will pour out onto the wrong person who is holding the bowl.

You can buy more practical dishes in Kumaradei, returning to the highway and covering another 2 kilometers. From here you can go down to the 16th-century Mother of God Monastery Megalis Panayias (Wednesday-Monday 10:00-13:00 and 17:30-20:00), whose frescoes have been badly damaged by dampness. Then the route reaches the village of Mili, surrounded by citrus groves, which can also be reached from Ireon. 4 kilometers above Mili lies the large mountain village of Pagondas, with a superb main square (where Pentecost is celebrated in grand style - a special revelry on Whitsunday evening) and a quaint communal fountain house on the southern slope of the hill.

The paved road, pleasing to the eye and soul, after this village describes an arc that spans 15 kilometers to go around the hill and end up in Pyrgos, which is at the very edge of the gorge, gradually descending in a southwestern direction. Pyrgos is famous for its honey and is considered the center of Samian beekeeping and beekeeping. The best tavern is Koutouki tou Barba Dhimitri (all year round) - with a good selection of vegetarian mezedes and grilled dishes.

The heavily indented coast south of the Pagondas-Pyrgos road is very beautiful, but practically inaccessible, so that visitors usually get their first and last glimpse of it (glimpsed) from the window of the plane taking them to Samos. An unusually picturesque cove with sandy and gravel shores at the beginning of the Tsopela Gorge has a single beach, which can be reached along a marked track and on which there is a good tavern, surrounded by surviving coniferous forest and offering fish and one or even two standard dishes.

But you'll need a sturdy motorcycle (a scooter won't do) or a car to reach this sweet spot. Access the western sections of this coastline through the village of Kumeika, with a marble fountain covered in calligraphic inscriptions and a couple of cafes in the square. Below, near the village of Ballos, there is an elongated bay, on the shores of which there are not only pebbles, but also sand, there is a cave, and naturists rest on the far eastern edge. Ballos itself is just a sleepy cluster of summer cottages, with a smattering of basic accommodation and a tavern or two, all on the coast road.

The best place to stay if you're going out is Amfilisos, while good grills and some seafood can be found at the simple Paralia (May-early October). If you decide to head back to Kumeika, be aware that the dodgy-looking lane signposted "Velanidya" is actually a paved highway - and a very useful shortcut if you're heading towards the beaches beyond Ormos Marathokambu.

Leaving the city of Samos and driving along the northern coastal section of the island's ring road, you are unlikely to want to stop until you reach Kokkari, the second tourist center of the island after Pythagorion. The appearance of the town, located between two capes, has not changed for a long time, so that even today one or even two families cast their nets from the city embankment, but internal changes are undoubted, no matter how much they are denied.

Even if the innovations are not really striking, the town has moved far away from the sea, spreading over vineyards and abandoned fields where the seedling onion variety (kokkari) once grew, which gave the town its name. Since the uncovered rocky beaches are mercilessly blown by almost constant winds, the locals had no choice but to try to pass off need as virtue. And the place began to develop - with great success - as a resort for fans of surf fighting - windsurfing courses on the western outskirts of the village do not close until the end of the season.

• Useful information about the Kokkari resort

Buses stop on the highway passing through the village, near the church. On the same road there are several ATMs, branches of Samos's largest travel agencies and a Lexis book and press store, and on a seaside street there is a post office in the Portakabin building. As in the cities of Samos and Pythagorion, the lion's share of housing in Kokkari is purchased by tourism companies. Places can be found at Lemos near the northern end of the western beach or the Angela Guesthouse.

And if you want to see the fishing port from your windows, try to stay at the Alkyonis guesthouse. And if you're on a budget, look no further than the Avion Hotel, a thoughtfully designed complex of bungalows on an unburnt patch on the hillside, 2 kilometers to the west. The taverns that line the northern embankment look cool and are rich in views, but it’s hard to say anything good about them. The exception is Piccolo Porto (dinner only), where the pizza is cooked in a wood-fired oven. The nightlife area with many bars is a small square on the seashore.

And you can eat well either opposite the church, in Iy Bird, where every evening there are a lot of people crowding in for the cooking of the owner’s mother (his name is Artemis), or on the western beach, in one of the oldest establishments in the village (1988). Ammos Plaz, where the mayirefta and fish are very good, and the prices are fair. The latter establishment has many loyal regulars and a table (in the greenhouse overlooking the sea) must be booked several days in advance.

• Coast west of Kokkari

The nearest secluded beaches are a 30-40 minute walk to the west, all of them have sun loungers and large umbrellas permanently attached. The first, Lemonakya, is perhaps too close to the highway, although many guests of the Arion Hotel sunbathe on Lemonakya, and the tavern on this beach is not bad. 1 kilometer behind it is the gracefully curved crescent of Dzamado, which is present on every poster inviting to Samos. It is somewhat less affected by tourism, as it is only accessible by a path, and nudists have a strong foothold on the far eastern edge of the beach (limpet-shaped pebbles).

There is another pebble beach, Dzabu, 7 kilometers west of the town of Avlakya, again with a decent snack bar, but you shouldn’t go there on purpose: the wind almost always blows from the northwest. The next spot at least somewhat worthy of attention on the coastal road is called Platanakya - in essence, it is a bunch of buildings near the bridge at the turn to Manolates. The local tavern Iy Apolavsis has a small selection, but it's some great mayirefta. Platanakia can be considered a suburb of the village of Agios Konstandinos with a beautiful esplanade against which the waves crash.

But there are no suitable beaches within walking distance, while stone buildings in warm colors, among which only occasionally modern buildings are found, are attractive as an option only if you do not want to get stuck in Kokkari. The town comes to life only with the influx of Dutch climbers who have chosen the surrounding area. You can stay at the Iro Hotel and Apartments Agios Konstantinos, both on the road to the sea. You can only eat in Iy Apolavsis, there is also Akroyiali in the middle of the embankment, open all day, and the best of all is Aeolos (June-September): fish and grilled meat are very good, as well as a few, but very well selected baked dishes, tables they stand either on a breakwater or near a tiny beach.

Beyond this village, the mountains approach the road and the sea, and the landscape softens only when Kondakeika appears on the way, in whose tiny coastal suburb - Agios Nikolaos - you can appreciate the incomparable fish cuisine at Iy Psaradhes (Easter-October), with a terrace, washed by the waves. During the season, booking in advance is a must, as the establishment is (deservedly) mentioned in many guidebooks. A 10-minute walk east of the last studio houses is the reasonable Pyaki Beach.

Following Agios Nikolaos, the turn inland, just at the river bed that marks the eastern border of Karlovasi, after 6 kilometers leads to the rarely visited village of Idroussa, from where you can get to the Assumption Church of Kimisis Theotokou. This oldest and most noteworthy church on the island was painted shortly after its construction (frescoes from the late 12th or early 13th centuries). The deceptively simple interior (not on the castle) is completely covered with frescoes, often still bright, and only on the ceiling the paintings have noticeably faded or blurred - due to dampness.

• Mountain villages

The hinterland between Kokkari and Kondakeika is home to coniferous and cypress forests and orchards, with awe-inspiring mountains visible here and there. Apart from a few burnt tongues between Lemonakya and Dzabu, reaching in some places to the seashore, the forests were not damaged by the fires of 2000. The network of trails connecting mountain villages has also survived, despite the ubiquitous bulldozers, and you can always return to the main highway along which buses scurry, so you won’t get lost. The Vrondjanis (Vronda) monastery, right above Kokkari, was recently visited by many hikers, but after the fires and after the military placed barracks in the cells, the monastery was finally and irrevocably closed for repairs.

2 kilometers west of the monastery, in Vourliotes, beak-like chimneys pierce the sky and brightly painted shutters appear to decorate almost identical tiled houses. Previously, the village could be proud of its photogenic central square, but the thirst for profit that overwhelmed the restaurateurs ruined all the beauty. We advise you to give up on the local taverns and return to the entrance to the village, in Iy Pera Vrysi, or stop by the Piyi Pnaka tavern, which is in the bucolic village of the same name a little away from the road to Vourliotes.

After going up the mountain and walking for 1 hour through a deep gorge with a river at the bottom, you will find yourself in Manolates, where there are several more simple taverns (the best of them is Iy Filia at the entrance to the village), and the well-trodden (not without pleasure) trail begins there. very many trail to the top of Mount Ambelos (Karvounis), the second highest on the island, a round trip hike will take about 5 hours. It is no more difficult to walk from this village to the next village, Stavrinides, only you will have to step back and walk (part of the way along a paved path) along the shady gorge of Aidonia (Greek name for Swallows), towards Platanakia.

31 kilometers west of the city of Samos is the second city of the island - Karlovasi, which is much more old-fashioned than the capital and quite sleepy in comparison, although its population is almost the same. It is only good as a base for exploring the beautiful beaches in the west of Samos or as a starting point for a number of rewarding hikes. Although the Samians are diligently fighting the Ottoman heritage throughout the island, the name of the village is clearly Turkish (distorted) and means “snowy plain” - by plain, one must think, is meant the noticeable saddle of Mount Kerkis above the town.

The village consists of five loosely united, although closely located villages: Neo, the farthest from the sea, grew after 1923 due to refugees (from the new Turkey); Meceo, behind the usually dry river bed, now clearly intends to go over a hillock to merge with the coastal area of ​​Riva and the colorful Paleo (or Ano) area above the small port area of ​​Limani. Most tourists stay in Limani or near this area, especially since the amenities visitors need are concentrated there. The hotels are noisy, and no one is going to spoil you with the views from the rooms. Rooms away from the sea, but quieter: we recommend Vangelis Feloukatzis.

The port itself is very nice, there is a boat yard on the western edge, and all the agencies selling ferry tickets are located on the adjacent street. Frappadhika and the chain of bars on the pedestrian promenade are interrupted only by two expensive taverns (Meseo, described below, is preferable for those looking for good food). Semifredo, at the eastern end of the promenade, offers some of the best sweets and ice cream in the area. Immediately above your head (and above Limini), in the partly hidden from view Paleo village, a hundred or so houses are clinging to both sides of a shady ravine, but there are no reliable establishments for vacationers.

At Meceo, further east, of the three taverns in the central square, Dionysos (all year round) is the best: creative cooking, equally pleasant indoor and outdoor seating, and a wine list inspired by Athenian sophistication. With faster service, Iy Platia has lower prices and is popular with the locals, who order mayirefta and a few grill items at lunchtime. As you walk along the street connecting the central square with the Riva district, you will pass one of those early 20th-century churches that dot the local coastal plain - all of them incredibly huge, with twin bell towers and blue-and-white domes.

At the intersection of this street and the coastal road, you'll find To Kyma (April-October), a wonderful place for prices, quality and sunsets, where Ethiopian owner Barkhane infuses the cuisine with Middle Eastern and East African influences (try ali salad with sun-dried tomatoes, cashews and zucchini), there is a selection of seafood and vegetarian dishes, but be prepared to fight for a table: it is almost always full of people, and advance reservations are not provided.

There is almost nothing else to recommend in Riva, except that you might be attracted by a walk near the mouth of the river: dilapidated stone warehouses and mansions and deserted desolation in the very place where in the first half of the 20th century the rich settled, profiting from the leather industry, which had long since disappeared. You will probably stop by Neo for several ATMs or the post office, which, like the bus stop and taxi rank, is located on the main square. Students of the local university provide a fairly active nightlife, which, in addition to Popkom in Limani, takes place in the Toxotis cafe-bar, and on the same street there is also a local cinema "Gorgyra".

Western part of Samos island

The closest beach to Karlovasi is Potami, a 40-minute walk along the coastal road from Limani or a 1-hour walk along the more pleasing and higher road from Paleo. The wide arc, sprinkled with sand and pebbles, is crowded on weekends in the summer, because then literally the entire city moves to Potami. Where the trail from Paleo ends, rooms are available for rent, but there are not many of them, and a large number of vacationers spend the night in the open air near the mouth of the river that gave the beach its name. And if you follow the road along the river bank, deep into the island, then in 20 minutes you will come to the 11th century Church of the Transfiguration.

Metamorphosis (the oldest on the island), behind which the river disappears into a small gorge (fenced with railings, but still a dizzying staircase will allow you to go down into this gorge, but not back up). If you are not inspired by the prospect of staying at the bottom of the gorge, you will have to swim and wade 100 meters of icy water, so cold that your heart aches, and make your way through a series of rocky and fern-overgrown reservoirs to a not very high, but rather stormy waterfall. Be sure to wear good shoes - you will need strong boots or high-laced boots and, probably, a rope - if you decide to climb above the first cascade.

It is unlikely that you will be left there alone - at least until you go down into the gorge - both locals and travel agencies know about this canyon. And above the Metamorphosis Church you will see a clear but dangerous path to a tiny Byzantine fortress, built at the same time as the church. Inside its walls there is almost nothing to look at: only an underground cistern and a badly damaged lower part of the wall, but the views of the sea and the canyon are beautiful, and in October everything around is covered with pink autumn crocuses. The coast beyond the Potami is considered one of the most beautiful and pristine on Samos, and since the early 1980s it has been protected as a refuge for rare monk seals.

The dirt path at the western edge of Potami Bay ends after a 20-minute walk, after which you should return about 100 meters to reach a track clearly marked by pyramids and running parallel to the coastline. In 20 minutes you will follow this lane to the Micro-Seitani bay with pebbles along the banks and sculpted rocks around. And after walking for a full hour, you will reach Megalo Seitani, the best beach on the island, at the exit of the gloomy Cacoperato gorge. Bring food and water, but a swimsuit is not required - there are no rules about this at any of Seitani Bays. And if you are not an inveterate lover of walking, then during the season, sea taxis run from the port of Karlovasi to Seitani a couple of times a day (10 € round trip).

Southwestern seaside resorts of Samos

Moving from Karlovasi along the island ring road to the south, you will find yourself in the amphitheater-like village of Marathokambos on the shores of the bay of the same name. There are no amenities for tourists in it, and if you drive along the bypass road, you will not get into the traffic jam that is common in the village and will save about 4 kilometers. The village port of Ormos Marathokambos, 18 kilometers from Karlovasi, has been developing as a tourist resort since the 1990s, although its rural interior is still noticeable, especially in the back streets.

But the harbor has been renovated, caiques take visitors for the day to Fourni and the nearby islet of Samjopula, and the harbor promenade, which is given over to pedestrians, is worth visiting, as there are taverns there: the best of them is Iy Trata at the eastern end of the promenade, outside the pedestrian zone. You can stay at Studios Avra ​​near the pier or at the Kerkis Bay Hotel in the block near the middle of the embankment. The beach east of Ormos is hardly good, much better are those that start 2 kilometers west of the resort of Votsalakya (official name - Kambos), the newest on Samos and aimed primarily at families: it stretches another 2 kilometers beyond the longest (albeit not the most beautiful) beach on the island.

But more importantly, Votsalakya has greatly improved the situation near Pythagorion, and the massif of Mount Kerkis (1437 meters above sea level) leaves few people indifferent. For overnight accommodation, contact the owner of the nice little tavern Evoinos in the middle of the embankment, the owner's name is Elsa Hiu, she will offer a room above her tavern, and Emmanuel Dedpotakis keeps several rooms scattered around the more picturesque western end of the village. There are two taverns nearby: Loukoullos, overlooking the sea, where everything is cooked in a wood-burning oven, and Akwyialia, founded in 1979, where everything is tasty, but small portions and inflated prices.

Other amenities include branches of all the important travel agencies in Samos, vehicle rental (much needed - only 2 buses daily) and a couple of stand-alone ATMs. If Votsalakia is not to your liking, you can travel another 3 kilometers to the more aesthetic beach of Psili Ammos: these 600 meters of shore should not be confused with the beach of the same name on the southeastern coast of Samos. The sea here goes deep very smoothly, and groups of naturists hide behind the cliffs on the eastern edge.

Tourism is surprisingly weak in developing this place: only three small studio complexes among the pine trees in the middle of the beach and two taverns on the access road. The path to the smaller Limnionas Bay, which is another 2 kilometers to the west, passes by the Limnionas Bay Hotel, which is much superior in level to all other local housing: floors with living quarters surround a garden and a pond. On occasion, caiques and pleasure boats swim into the sheltered cove, where it is good to swim behind a rocky ledge, especially on the eastern edge of the bay.

• Mount Kerkis

After lying for a long time by the sea and contemplating Mount Kerkis, the thought of climbing it may come to mind. The most traveled route begins on the western edge of the Votsalakya Spit and follows the ruts left by the wheels of jeeps and other all-terrain vehicles to the Annunciation Monastery of Evangelistrias. About a 45-minute walk through olive groves and past pits dug for burning charcoal (the main industry of the island), and you will see the beginning of a path along the power lines leading to the monastery. At the monastery, a friendly nun will treat you to ouzo and show you a marked and even steeper path, along which you will reach the top.

The views along the way are beautiful, although the ascent itself cannot be called pleasant, especially after the trees end. About an hour's journey to the top you will come across a church with an annex in which you can hide if necessary, next to the desired spring. Everyone claims that the hike from Votsalakya and back takes 7 hours, not counting stops. Less ambitious walkers are free not to walk up the mountain, but to go around it from the side, first by car, then on foot. The road beyond Limnyonas goes to the truly isolated, even remote villages of Kallithea and Drakea, but they offer views to Ikaria, and the road is paved to Drakea, so you can risk driving there on an ordinary motorcycle.

Buses run, but the connection is better when children go to school: then the bus leaving from Karlovasi (Monday-Friday 13:20) visits the most remote places. In summer, however, the same bus runs twice a week at best. From Drakea, a nice little trail, almost undisturbed by road technology, descends through the forest in 90 minutes to Megalo Seitani, from where it is quite easy to reach Karlovasi - on foot in 2.5 hours. Those who attempt this route in the opposite direction often find that the bus (if it runs at all that day) leaves Drakea for the return journey at dawn or 2:45 p.m., leaving you either to retrace your steps or rent a room (in Drakei they unofficially offer shelter, but only in the summer) and eat in one of four taverns.

In Kallithea there is only a simple psistaria in a tiny square, and the new path (behind the cemetery), like the older path, leads in 45 minutes to a spring, a village church and a plane tree, all this on the western spur of Mount Kerkis, from where it’s only another 30 along the path It's a short walk to a couple of cave churches with pale frescoes. The Panagia Makrini Church of the Virgin Mary, at the entrance to the tall, wide but shallow grotto, offers stunning views from the balcony of the western tip of Samos. Trinity Ayia Triada - to get to it you will climb a mountain for 10 minutes - on the contrary, it does without unnecessary buildings: its walls are the walls of a cave.

From the church you can go down (you need a torch or flashlight) into the depths of a narrow and long volcanic cavity that goes several hundred meters into the mountain. After such underground exercises, it’s a good idea to swim, for example, in the cove of Varsamo (Valsamo), which is 4 kilometers from Kallithea downhill along a signposted dirt road. On the beach you will see scatterings of multi-colored volcanic stones, a couple of sheltered coves and the only, very friendly and not very expensive tavern, located away from the sea, which is run by women from the same family, but three generations. They also offer rooms there.

In contact with

Samos city

It was the center of Ionian culture during antiquity. The birthplace of a number of great figures of ancient culture: the philosophers Pythagoras, Melissa and Epicurus, the astronomers Aristarchus and Aristillus.

The island is mentioned in the works of Herodotus, which lists the wonders of the world. All three wonders of the world are located here:

• Aqueduct in the form of a tunnel,
• Dam in the port on the island,

Geography

Satellite image of the island

The island is located in the eastern Aegean Sea and has an area of ​​about 478 km². The length of the island from west to east is 43 kilometers, the width from north to south is about 8 kilometers. Samos is one of the largest and most fertile islands of the Aegean Sea. It is separated from the coast of Asia Minor by the Mycale Strait, the width of which at its narrowest point is only 1.6 kilometers. Along with the mountains, the island has relatively many fertile plains, a significant part of which is occupied by vineyards. Vafi wine has a very good reputation outside Greece. The largest plains of the island are Pythagorio in the southeast, Karlovasi in the northwest and Marofokampos in the southwest. The population of the island is about 34 thousand people, Samos is the ninth most populous of the Greek islands. The climate of Samos is typically Mediterranean with mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers.

The largest mountain area of ​​the island is the Ampelos massif, located in the central part of the island and reaches a height of 1095 meters. The highest point of the island - the peak of the Kerkis massif reaches a height of 1434 meters. The Samos Mountains are a continuation of the Mikale ridge of Turkish Asia Minor.

Story

Early Antiquity

As findings near the village of Pythagorio show, people settled on the island of Samos in the 3rd millennium BC. e. Presumably Samos was inhabited by tribes of Carians and Leleges. The island contains traces of the Minoan and Mycenaean civilizations. Since the times of these civilizations, the cult of the goddess Hera, who was allegedly born on this island, arose on the island. About a thousand years BC, the Ionians landed on the island during the great Greek migration. Samos became one of the 12 members of the Ionian League.

Rule of Polycrates

Aqueduct built by Polycrates

Taking advantage of the lack of its own fleet in the Persian Empire, Polycrates establishes the hegemony of the Samos fleet in the Aegean Sea. Polycrates concluded a treaty of friendship with the Egyptian pharaoh Amasis and exchanged endowed gifts with him. Samos became a center of piracy. Polycrates robbed both friends and enemies. There is a well-known phrase from Polycrates that “it is better to earn the gratitude of friends by returning to them what was taken away than not to take anything from them at all.”

The vast income that came to the island was spent wisely. Extensive construction took place: Samos harbor was expanded and protected by a large causeway; The walls of the city and fortress were re-fortified, their length exceeded a kilometer; A deep ditch was dug around the city, the temple and sanctuary of Hera was expanded and newly decorated, replacing the one that had burned down. Polycrates built a castle, and in a mountain located to the north of the city, he ordered a tunnel about a kilometer long to be dug and installed in it a water supply system from a massive spring to supply the city with fresh and unpolluted water (the so-called Samian aqueduct). Part of the funds was spent on updating and creating a new fleet. By order of Polycrates, construction began on a new type of ship, the samen, which differed from modern ships in having a stubby bow with the image of a boar, more rounded contours and the ability to sail. Images of this ship have since appeared on Samian coins, which also began to be called “samens”.

Around this time, an uprising of democracy took place in Samos against the nobility with the participation of the Athenians, who were in the harbor with three ships. The Samian democrats killed about two hundred people, all of them noble citizens, four hundred people were sentenced to exile, and their land and houses were confiscated in their favor. Since now the Athenians, having recognized the Samians as reliable allies, decided to grant them autonomy, from that time on the Samian people themselves ruled the state, and did not give the Geomors any rights, not even epigs, so that none of the Samian people were allowed to marry their daughters geomors, nor give their daughters to them in marriage.

After these events, Samos became the main base of the Athenian fleet and the center of the democratic movement of the Athenian state. Thrasybulus and other leaders of the Athenian democrats, relying on their base in Samos, overthrew the rule of the Three Hundred in Athens. After the end of the Peloponnesian War, Samos, along with Skyros and Lemnos, remained part of the Athenian state. In 387 BC. e. under the terms of the Treaty of Antalcid it was recognized as independent. In 365 BC. e. after an eleven-month siege, the island was again conquered by Athens. The Athenians settled cleruchi from among their poor citizens on the island. The island remained loyal to Athens during the Allied War of 357-355 BC. e. and was attacked by the rebel allies. After the Lamian War of 322 BC. e. the island began to be administered by Macedonia.

Samos in the Hellenistic era

Samos under Roman and Byzantine rule

At the beginning of Roman rule, the island had fairly broad autonomy. But in 88 BC. e. Samos supported the Pontic king Mithridates VI Eupator in the war against Rome, and after the defeat of the Pontics in 85 BC. e. lost his autonomy.

Economy

Transport

Attractions

Famous Samians

• Aristarchus of Samos - astronomer and mathematician
• Aristil - mathematician
• Asclepiades of Samos - lyric poet
• Hyperbole - Athenian politician, killed at Samos
• Irenaeus I (Patriarch of Jerusalem) - born in Samos
• Conon of Samos - astronomer and mathematician
• Melissa - philosopher
• Pythagoras - mathematician and philosopher
• Pythagoras of Rhegium - sculptor
• Polycrates - tyrant of the island
• Theodore of Samos - architect and sculptor
• Aesop - was a slave for a long time on Samos
• Epicurus - philosopher

Notes

Links

Coordinates: 37°44′00″ n. w. 26°50′00″ E. d. /  37.733333° N. w. 26.833333° E. d.(G)37.733333 , 26.833333

The lush island of Samos was part of Asia Minor before the Ice Age, when the sea retreated and the Strait of Samos (Darbogaz) was formed, only 2.5 km wide.

In ancient times, the island was the richest Hellenic colony in the Aegean Sea, and during the reign of Polycrates (535-522 BC) it became the strongest polis of Hellas, home to a thriving community of intellectuals that included Epicurus, Pythagoras, Aristarchus, Aesop and others. In the Byzantine era it had the status of an autonomous region of the empire, but little by little it began to lose its influence. At the end of the 15th century, the Genoese abandoned the island, unable to withstand the endless attacks of pirates, and Samos remained almost uninhabited until 1562, when Orthodox Greek settlers flocked here from all over Europe. The Samians fought desperately for independence until the beginning of the 19th century, but, despite the defeat of the Turkish fleet and the destruction of the landing force, the “great powers” ​​returned the island to the Ottoman Empire in 1830 on terms of partial autonomy. This period, later called "Hegemony", was a real Renaissance in the history of Samos, but the union with Greece (1912) and the fierce fighting of the Second World War, accompanied by mass migrations, actually completely changed its appearance. Only tourism, which began its development here in the mid-1980s, is gradually returning the island to its once lost position as one of the most interesting sites in the region.

It is characteristic that the local culture has preserved quite a few ancient traditions. Most village names are either the surnames of the dominant clan there, or adjectives indicating the origin of the place. There is no distinctly local music, dance or dress characteristic of other islands in the region; even in cooking or architecture, the islanders copy mainland Greece in everything. The lack of places to set up camp, discreet nightlife and the distinct localization of tourist sites only on the south-eastern and south-western shores are clearly aimed at a certain category of guests. Destructive fires also caused many problems - from 1987 to 2000, Samos lost approximately half of its forests and is now actively restoring them - but this will take many years.

The capital of the island is called differently -. Quite boring and having a completely ordinary appearance, it has almost lost its former resort appearance.

The modest beaches around the capital seem to compensate for the complete lack of beaches in the city itself, although most of them can only be reached by your own transport. Southeast of Vathy along the main road you can visit the “triple chapel” Tris-Eclysis(XVIII century), mountain village Paleokastron(Paleokastron, 3 km from the city) with the ruins of an ancient castle, a bay Kerveli with a small but popular beach and a couple of taverns, as well as good sand and pebble beaches Micali(Mykali) and Psili Amos(Psili Ammos). However, the local shores have strong currents, so it is not worth recommending them to inexperienced swimmers.

North Shore

On the northern coast, just 5 km west of Samos, lies Kokarion(Kokkarion, Kokkari) is the second largest tourist center of the island. Despite the fact that the local pebble beach is quite ordinary, and winds are not at all uncommon here, it was here, among the old vineyards, that a good resort complex quickly grew up, aimed at lovers of active recreation - primarily windsurfers. A little to the west (literally 20-30 minutes on foot) lie shores more protected from the wind Lemonakya(Lemonakia), Arion(Arion), Tsamadu(Tzamadhou) and Zabu(Tzabou).

A town located just north of Agios Konstandinos(Ayios Konstandinos) is famous for its pretty esplanade, against the parapet of which the sea surf is always beating, and good taverns with seafood cuisine, but there are no good beaches here. Only to the west, near Agios Nikolaos, where the mountains recede from the coast, there is a good pebble beach Plaka. The road going south will lead to a small mountain village Kondakeika(Kondakeika) and Byzantine Kimisis Theotokou churches- the oldest (XII-XIII centuries) and beautifully decorated in Samos, moreover, surrounded by beautiful landscapes with low mountains covered with cypress and pine trees. From here you can go even further into the mountains and see colorful villages Wurliote(Vourliote, 1.5 km south of Aulakia), Manolates(Manolates) and Stavrinides(Stavrinidhes) or climb to Mount Karvuni(Karvounis, 1153 m).

City Karlovasi(Karlovassi) lies 31 km west of Vathy. Once there were two separate cities - Ieon Karvalasion and Meseon Karlovasion, founded in ancient times as large ports of the north-west, but then they merged together and became the second largest city on the island (after the capital). Nowadays it is a sleepy and old-fashioned town, known only as the main gateway to the region's good beaches. Its attractions include, perhaps, only the picturesque old village of Paleo in the gorge above the city, two huge churches of the early 20th century with twin bell towers and a blue and white dome, and many good restaurants and taverns, many of which turn into to noisy clubs (Karlovasi is considered the student center of the island).

The closest beach to the city is Potami(Potami) - a wide arc of sand and pebbles, literally packed with locals on weekends. Nearby stands the Metamorphosis Church (11th century - the oldest in Samos), and a little further away there is a Byzantine fortress of the same period and a small gorge with a small waterfall. The west coast of Potami is considered the most beautiful and unspoilt on Samos; In addition, there are many small monasteries and cells, as well as cozy rocky bays, which can often only be reached by sea.

South coast

South of Vathy, the island's best resort deserves attention - Pythagorio(Pythagorio, named in 1955 in honor of the ancient mathematician and philosopher Pythagoras, and before that it was simply called Fonias after the name of the cape), excavations of the ancient capital of Samos - Tigani with its defensive structures, baths and aqueduct almost within the resort area, the castle of Lycurgus Logothetis ( XIX century) and a few kilometers to the west of it there is a good beach area of ​​Potokaki with a completely modern recreation infrastructure.

Beneath the sediment layers of the Imvresos River and the western end of the local airfield's runway lies sacred path, which once connected ancient Tigani with Geryon - a huge sanctuary of the mother goddess. Now this vast ancient complex (open daily from June to September from 8.00 to 19.30; from October to May - from 8.30 to 15.00; 3 euros) consists of only numerous foundations of ancient structures and a single column. And in ancient times it was considered the birthplace of Hera and the place of her meetings with Zeus, and therefore had a unique status even among the numerous sanctuaries of the region.

A little to the south lies a modern resort Ireon(Ireon) with a good pebble beach and cool water due to the influx of water from the same Imvresos.

A little further north begins the “pottery region of Samos” with its colorful villages of craftsmen Kumaradei(Koumaradhei, 7 km west of Howrah), Pagondos(Pagondas) and Miles(Myli), monasteries Megali Panayia(XVI century) and Agios Ioanis, and also lies the “honey capital of the island” - the village Pyrgos(Pyrgos).

Closer to the sea and the inaccessible southern tip of the island you can visit the scenically beautiful Tsopela Bay(Tsopela) at the mouth of a large gorge, a beautiful village Kumeika(Kumeika) with a massive marble fountain and a couple of good bars on its main square, a picturesque sandy Balos Bay(Ballos) with cliffs overhanging its eastern end and a nudist beach (in the far eastern "corner"), as well as a small port Marathokambos(Marathokambos, Marathokambou) is a good starting point for sea excursions.

The southwestern coast also abounds in resorts - albeit often small and ordinary, but for the most part quiet and very picturesque. The most interesting of them include the beach of the family resort Votsalakya(Votsalakia), or Kambos(Kambos), near Port Marathokambos, sandy and pebble shores surrounded by low cliffs Louculosa(Loukoullos), six hundred meters Psili Amos coast(not to be confused with its namesake in the southeast of the island) and protected Limnionas Bay(Limnionas, on old maps - Limnonaki).

Many hiking routes to the mountain start from here. Kerketefs, or Kerkis(1433 m), passing through picturesque olive groves past the women's Evangelistria Monastery And Kerkis chapels. The second climbing route starts from the “village at the end of the world” Drakei(Dhrakei) on the northwestern coast, from whose walls there are magnificent panoramas of the sea and the distant one, then passes through the Megalo-Sertani forest and the green Zestani valley.

In the very west of the island Kallithea(Kallithea) the pretty rural chapel surrounded by plane trees and the cave churches located just above are worth visiting - Panagia Marini at the entrance to a wide but shallow grotto, from the “balcony” of which stunning panoramas of the island and the sea open up, as well as those visible just above, literally a 10-minute walk, Ayia Triada, literally built into the walls of the cave. Moreover, nearby lies another long and narrow volcanic cave, which you can easily explore on your own with a flashlight. You can relax on the beaches Varsamo Bay(Varsamo, 4 km below Kallithea), whose shores are composed of multi-colored volcanic pebbles. There are also two small caves and a good (although rather expensive) tavern with a small boarding house.